Woman's handiwork in modern homes

Front matter

STIEltUNG AND FRANQNE

* t)

rue HATCH UTH.CO. NEW YORK

Part I.— Embroidery. Pack

Introduction, 3

The Scheme of Decorative Needlework in England and America — Royal School of Art Needlework — Society of Decorative Art — Association of Decorative Artists, . ..... 3-10

The Governing Rules of Decorative Art, .... 10

Appropriateness and Color, ........ 10

Design, . 13

Stitches, Ancient and Modern 120

Opus Pulvinarium — Tent Stitch — Cross Stitch — Persian Cross Stitch — Vienna and Russian Cross Stitch — The Pelham Industry— Old Florentine Work on Silver Canvas, .... 20-24

Cushion Stitches for Grounds — Darning Stitches for Grounds — Queen Anne Work — Restoring Old Embroideries — Spanish Altar Frontals — Miss Townsend's Crewel Work, . . . 24-28

Couching, or Laid Embroidery — Outhne Couching — Plain Couching—Diaper Couching— Basket Stitch— Turkish, Portuguese, Spanish and Indian Work — Queen Elizabeth's Garters, . . 28-33

Opus Plumarium, or Feather Stitch — Renaissance Convent Embroidery—Stem Stitch— Split Stitch 33-3^

Satin Stitch, or French Plumetis— Blanket Stitch— Button-Hole Stitch — Montenegrin Work— French Knot — Chain Stitch — Antique Portuguese Bed Cover in Maize Silk on Cotton — Tambour Work— Twisted Chain Stitch— Point Russe— Holbein Stitch, 37-44

Opus Anglicum and other Ancient Stitches, . . . . . 44-45 vi

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Textiles Used for Embroidery, , 46

Transferring the Design, 50

Gold in Textiles and Embroidery, ...... 52

Oriental Stuffs— Roman Winding Sheets— Old and New Indian, Cretan and Turkish Embroideries— Gold Muslins at the Court of the First Napoleon— Gold Thread— Bullion, Passing, etc., . 52-54

Frames, 56

Fringes for Needlework, . 57

. Specimen of Venetian Cinque Cento Applique— ^o^^ of Working — Cord and Cockle-Shell, period of the Iron Cross in France — Modern French Work — Curtains Designed by the Princess Louise — Applique Oranges on Blue English Serge — Lady Ashburton's Curtains — Fawn Plush Curtains for a New York Drawing-Room — Applique Panel, by Mrs. Wheeler — Portiere with American Azaleas — Portiere, with Applique Design, from Spencer's Epithalamium — Library Portiere with Heraldic Device in .^///^'^^^j/, . . . . . . . . , : . .: . 58-68

Outline Work, .. 69

Miss Wheeler's Designs — Pattern from Bed-Drapery at Hardwick Hall— Outhne Work on Unbleached Stuffs — Doyleys — Landscape Panels — Bed Covers — Pillow Covers — Panels for Wall or Piano — Portiere of Garnet Velvet — Morning Room Curtains in India Silk — Union League Club-House Portiere — Stuffed Embroidery Outlined in Silk, 69-75

Treatment of Embroideries, When Finished, . . . . 75

Banner Screen made up at Home — Washing Crewel Embroidery

Drawn Work, Old and New, 78

The Earhest Known Attempts at Lace— Spanish Deshilado— Italian Punto Tirato—Fr&nch Point-Tire— Mexican and South American Drawn-Work— Directions for Drawn- Work Stitches, 78-85

Opus Araneum, or Spiderwork 85

Old English Darned Netting— Italian Punto a Magha— Specimens at Metropolitan Museum — Florentine Table Covers with Darned Borders — Spanish Randa — Modern Guipure d' Art, . 85-87

CONTENTS. vii

PAGE

Cut-Work, or Point Coupe, ....... 88

Its Uses Daring the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries — Queen Elizabeth's Taste for Cut-work — German Pattern Books —

Swedish Holesom — Modern Point Coupe, . . . 88-90

Point and Pillow Laces, . . . . . . . . . 92-95

PART IL— BRUSH AND PIGMENT.

China Painting, with Directions for Beginners, . . . 99

Painting on Pottery Underglaze — Modern Fancy for Faience in Decoration — Fortuny's Hispano-Moresco Lustred Pottery — Reproductions of Henri Deux Faience — Mr. Colman's Collection of Chinese Vases in High Glaze — Minton's Revival of Old Italian Majolica— Doulton & W^att's Pottery — Swiss Faience — Fiinfkirchen (Hungarian) Faience — Russian Decorated Pottery — Modern Italian Faience — Laurin, or Bourg-la- Reine Ware— Limoges Faience — Deck Plaques, Vases, and Lamps — Bennett's Faience— Work Done by Bennett's Pupils — Volkmar's Faience — Work of Volkmar's Pupils at the Society of Decorative Art — Miss McLaughlin's Faience — Mrs. ,: \ . George Ward Nichol's Faience— Miss Rosina Emmet's Portrait Plaques — Ivory Ware Made and Decorated by the Misses Whitney and Chandler, of Lancaster, Mass. — Work of Graduy \ ates of the Cooper Union Art School — Incised Pottery by Miss ;

Annie Lee— Lamps, by Mrs. E. Wickes — Suggestions for Tiles, Plaques, etc., . . . . . . , .. . 97-114

Water-Colors on Silk or Satin, .

Fan Painting

OiL-CoLORS ON Silk or Satin, .

OiL-CoLORS ON Plush, . \ . .

Water-Colors on Sateen, Painting on Coarse Brown Paper, Water-Colors on Linen, .

Painting on Tapestry, Painting on Mirrors, viii > CONTENTS.

PAGE

Painting on Gilded Canvas, . . . . . . 122

Decorated Palettes, 123

Menus and Dinner Cards, . . 124

Etching on Linen, ... . . . • . . 126

Painting on Wood with Water-Colors, 129

Painted Tables, _ 130

PART III.—MODERN HOMES. Hints for Decoration, 133

Walls — Floors — Rugs and Carpets — Old Marble Mantel-Pieces — Book-Shelves— Brackets, etc. — The Living-Room — The Dining-Room — Bed-Room Furniture, after Mr. McKim's Designs — Eastlake and Queen Anne — Chippendale, Sheraton and Adam — Marquetry and Yorkshire Oak — Boule and Indian Teak — Mr. Bigelow's Old Colony Interiors — Stuffs for Covering Furniture — Yandell's Stamped Leathers and Plushes — Mr. Tiffany's Mosaic Glass for Window-Screens, . . .■ 136-145

Wood-Carving, 145

The Wood-Carving Industries of Cincinnati — Furniture Decorated

Screens, 149

Their Uses — Screens of Osier — Of Arras — Of Gilded Leather — Louis XV. Screen — Chippendale Fire-Screens — Old Screens of Crimson Velvet with Silver Wire at Hardwick Hall — Gerome's Screen of Golden Lacquer — Screens of Chinese Embroidery on Silk — Of Japanese Embroidery — Of Painting in Water-Color — Screens from the Royal School of Art Needlework — Screens from the Society of Decorative Art, with Directions for Making, and Examples 149-159

Portieres, . 160

Hanging for the Tabernacle Door — Oriental and French Portieres — Mr. Colman's Experiments in Japanese Brocades — Gondola Carpet, Wrought in Silver, Used as a Portiere — Mr. Colman's Curtain Worked by the Society of Decorative Art — Kelim — Turcoman — Tapestry — Plush and Serge Draperies — Embroidered Portieres and Cashmere Shawls as Door Hangings, . . . ......... 160-168

CONTENTS.

ix

PAGE

The Mantel-Shelf 169

Successful Make-Shifts and Suggestions for Variety in Decoration — Mantel Lambrequin on Turkish Satin with Cinque Cento Design — Miss Merry's "Grandmother's Crewel-Work," for the Society of Decorative Art — Old Dutch Fire-Place Decorations—Mantel-Shelf Curtains, etc., etc. , 169-175

Piano Decoration and Drapery, 176

What to do with Odds and Ends of Rare Embroidery — Scarfs of India Cotton or of Roman Silk — Japanese Brocades, or Portuguese Floss Work — Turkish or Algerian Work — Embroidered Panels and Piano-Covers 176

The Decoration of Our Doors, 177

Kakemonos and Prayer-Carpets — Embroidered Door-Hanging to Lie Flat Upon the Panels — Painted Panels — Stencilled Ornaments on Door-Frame and Panels — Decoration of the Nursery Doors, . ......... . 177-182

Japanese Art in Decoration, 182

Fans, Umbrellas, Lanterns, and Kakemonos — Japanese Lacquered

Furniture, and Japanese Stuffs — Porcelain and Glaze, . . 182-186

Thin Curtains for the Drawing-Room, 186

Madras Curtains — India Mulls — Cream Muslins, with Hair Stripes of Red and Blue — Muslin with Insertions of Antique Lace — Modern Nottingham Lace — Scrym — Strainer-Cloth, etc., . 186-188

Embroidered Draperies of India Mull, . . . ' . . 189

Embroidered Window-Shades, 189

In Buff or Gray Linen — Puffed Shades — Crimson Holland Shades

— Striped Gray and White Linen Shades, etc., . . . 189-190

Drawing-Room Chairs, . 190

Louis XV. and Cromwell Chairs — Tudor and Wakefield Rattan — Chinese Bamboo — Market Harborough and Shaker Chairs — Embroidered Rugs — Cushions and Covers, .... 190-194

Odds and Ends, . 194

Odds and Ends of Drawing-Room Decoration — A Wood-Basket — Sofa-Cushions — Tidies — Bell-Pulls — Lamps, Candles, Shades — Cinderella's Slippers — Bandanna Waste-Baskets — Indian Sweet-Grass Baskets from Mount Desert — Silk-Rag Curtains, 194-200

X

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Embroidered Umbrellas— Aprons — Bags — Reticules— Sachets — Table-Cover — Lambrequins — Candle-Stand Covers — Lounging-Chair — Rattan Waste-Basket — Banner-Screen with Owls in Council — Drapery for Bracket — Sofa-Cushion — Gilt Wicker Basket — Purse Work Bags — Crib-Cover with Motto— Crib- Blanket — Baby's Carriage Outfit — Splash Curtains — Bonnet- Baskets — Clothes-Basket — Shoe Bags and Boxes— Pin-Cushions— Toilet-Covers, and Duchesse Dressing-Table, . . 200-211,

[n Tea-Cup Time, . ... 212

Gossip about Tea-Drinkers — Elia and Cousin Bridget— Sairey Gamp and Betsey Prig — Matthew Arnold, George Sand, and Thomas Hughes — The Five O'clock Tea-Table — Its Equipage and Appurtenances — Embroidered Tea-Cloth — Queen Charlotte's Tea-Table — Trefoil Tables — Lamp-Tables, etc., etc. , . 212-219

Decorations of the Dinner-Table, . . . . . . 220

Old Times and New — Diner a la Russe — The Modern Chatelaine

— Tables — Cloths — Service Decoration — Lights, etc., . . 220

A Couleur de Rose Dinner — Old Blue and Early Jonquils — The Centre-Piece and Dessert — Table-Mirrors — Modern Dresden Ware — Cut Glass — Modern Venice Glass — Bohemian Glass — French Enamelled Glass from Jean at Sevres — Bombay Striped Glass — Stourbridge Glass— Canton and Copeland — Minton's Plates — Oriental China, and the After-Dinncr Coffee-Service, . ..... . I . \ . . . . . . 224-235

List of Illustrations.

COLORED PLATES.

PAGE

Interior — Morning-Room^ by Louis C, Tiffany, . . Froittispiece.

{ReJ)roduced by Hatch Lith. Co., from Dra7(iing by George Gibson.')

Doorway and Drapery, by Louis C. Tiffany, . . . .58

I [Reproduced by Hatch Lith. Co,., from Draiving by George Gibson,)

Kaience and Porcelain^ by Bennett, Volkmar, etc., . , -99

(Reproduced by Hatch Lith. Co., from Draiving by George Gibson.)

Portrait Plaque, by Miss Rosina Em7net, . . . .111

{Reproduced by Hatch Lith. Co.)

Sketch of Portiere, by Samuel Colman, . . . . ,160

{Reproduced by N. Y, Lith. Co.)

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT.

Leaves and Flowers of the Dogtooth Violet, Conventionalized and Adapted to Embroidery , by a pupil of the Cooper Union Art School, . . . . . . . '19

Stitches Used in Art Embroidery —

Tent Stitch, 20 ; Cross Stitch, 21 ; Persian Cross Stitch, 2.2. ; Cushion Stitch, 24 ; Darning" Stitch, 26 ; Outline Couching; 28 ; Plai7z Couching, 29 ; Diaper Couching, 30 ; Basket Stitch, 31 ; Feather Stitch {Old Opus Plumarium) , 33; Stem Stitch, 35; Satin Stitch, 37 ; Blanket Stitch, 38 ; French Knot, 39 ; Chain Stitch, 40 ; Twisted Chain Stitch,

Cinque- Cento Applique, from the Collection of Watson &^ Co., . 60

Embroidered Disks for Lnlaid Applique, by Mrs. Wheeler, . 62

Embroidered Disks for Lnlaid Applique, by Mrs. Wheeler, . 63

Design for Embroidery , Conventionalized Lily Leaves, . . 68

Panel for Outline Embroidery , by Miss Dora Wheeler, . . 70 xii LIST OY ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Design for Outline Embroidery, from Bed-Drapery at Hardwick Hall, 71

Spray for Embroidery — Buttercups^ . . . . . . 77

Design for Drawn- Work — Buffet Cover, . . . . . 78

Old Deskilado, or Spanish Drawfi-Work, Embroidered in

Colored Floss, Bnported by Mr. Chadwick, . . . 80 Old Punto Tirato, or Italian Dr awn- Work ^ . . . .81

Drawn-Work Stitches, . . . . - . . . .83

Drawn-Work Stitches^ .84

Spray for Embroidery — Wheat-Ears, 87

Macrajne Lace {Old Italian), .90

Macraine Lace {Modern), . . . , . , . 91

Spray for Embroidery — Blackberries , . .... 95

Limoges Jug and Drapery, .114

This Fan, My Grandmother'' s,^"* . . . . '117

Chintz- Curtains , Parting over a Jardiniere, .... 140

Tea-Screen, by Miss Dora Wheeler, 149

Folding- Screen, by George Gibson, . . . . . -153 Banner-Screen from the Society of Decorative Art, . -159

Portiere for Hall, 162

Mantel-Piece Decorated at Hom.e, . . . . .170

Cretonne Drapery for Mantel- Piece, . . . . . .173

Over-Door Decoration, . . 178

Over -Door Decoration, . . . . . . . .182

Decorated Door-Panels, . . . . . . - . i8c

Design for Embroidered Chair- Cover or Cushion — Periwinkle, 190 Design for Embroidered Chair- Cover or Cushion — Iris^ . .191 Design for Embroidery — Indian Corn, . . . . .219

Spray for Embroidery, . . . . . » . . 235

PART L EMBROIDERY.

The spirits of Ariadne and Penelope reign vivid in all the work."

— RUSKIN.

"Her days did pass In working with the needle curiously."

"Exquisite with her needle."

EMBROIDERY.