Wild life in Oregon: being a stirring recital of actual scenes of daring and peril among the gigantic forests and terrific rapids of the Columbia river (the Mississippi of the Pacific slope) : and giving life-like pictures of terrific encounters with savages ... including a full, fair and reliable history of the state of Oregon, its crops, minerals, timber lands, soil, fisheries : its present greatness, and future vast capabilities, and paramount positions

Front matter

THE LIBRA PV

BRIGHAM YOUNG T. RSITY

PROVO, UTAH

Preface

If this vciume does not commend itself to the favorable consideration! of the reading public, it will not be owing to any deficiency of material in the possession of the author, to enable him to furnish a most interesting and instructive work. Though his opportunities for the acquirement of that kind of knowledge resulting from observation, and necessary to qualify one to instruct and entertain mankind, during seven years of constant journeyings in various parts of the world, both by sea and land, have been perhaps greater than usually falls to the lot of even authors of books of travel, yet, conscious of his want of the requisite qualifications to array bis work in that fascinating drapery necessary to charm the reader at once into an unqualified approval, the author casts himself upon the public with all due deference.

The principal apology necessary to offer for the publication of this work, is a desire to connect with entertainment the promotion of a more extensive and particular knowledge of those interesting portions of the world where it has been the privilege of the author to travel, and make his observations.

While the world is literally teeming with fictitious publications, here is presented a volume of facts, for the most of which the author is alone responsible ; and in the absence of the tinsel adorning of a glowing and high-sounding style, the truthfulness of what is narrated is the principal merit to which the work is entitled.

The “ History of the Oregon Mission, ” to which the first chapter of the work is devoted, has been drawn from the most reliable sources, and, principally from the short notes of the late Rev. Jason Lee, and the Journal of the late Cyrus Shepherd, the first missionary teacher in Oregon.

This part, the author flatters himself, will supply the Christian public *ith a needful desideratum, with respect to the true character of that important Mission, and of the courageous and self-denying men who were the first to carry the Gospel across the Rocky Mountains, and to proclaim it along the shores of the Pacific Ocean.

The Journal, commencing with the departure of the Missionaries in the Ship Lausanne in the fall of 1839, will introduce thi reader to &U

V

PREFACE.

that is interesting relating to the largest expedition of the kind that evei sailed from an American port. It will acquaint him with “ Life on the Ocean Wave,” and the different interesting phenomena of the great deep. It will introduce to him the people of other countries, and give him information with respect to many of their customs. It will present him with a glimpse of oriental scenery, and occasionally unfold the beauties and sublimities of the mountain landscape. It will conduct him through perils by sea and perils by land, and perils among the most savage, de¬ graded and treacherous of the human race.

The Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Indian Oceans ; Brazil, Chili, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon, China, the Spanish Islands, and even Africa herself, have all been laid under contribution to enrich the Journal ; and from these different fields of observation have been collected facts, circum¬ stances, and incidents of history, which cannot fail to enlist the attention and excite the interest of the reader, arid to induce him to pursue the narrative, until, with the author, he shall have circumnavigated the globe.

The last few Chapters of the book are devoted exclusively to the Geography and History of ihe Oregon Territory. From a residence of several years in Oregon, connected with the fact that he made it a leading object to become informed from personal observation, not only with the geography of the country, with its productions ; the soil, climate, seasons, mountains, valleys, prairies, forests, rivers, &c. ; but also with every circumstance of importance which has ever transpired in connection with either the civil, political or religious interests of the country, the author oelieves himself to be qualified to present the inquiring public with more correct information regarding that portion of the world, than has hitherto been furnished from any source. For some of the facts connected with the History of Oregon, the author would acknowledge his indebtedness to the able and interesting Memoirs of Mr. Greenhow, the recent translator and librarian of the department of State, at Washington.

With these remarks, conscious of the uprightness of his intentions, the author would now place his offering upon the public altar ; counting no other favor in its behalf than that to which the merit of his performance is justly entitled.

M

Table Of Contents

CHAP. I.— Hi3fory of the Oregon mission, from its commencement to the depart, ure of the great reinforcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne. . . 9

CHAP. II. — Journal of a voyage from New York to Oregon — Time and circum¬ stances of departure— First evening— Last look at the Highlands— Initiatory rites — Great distress — Sea sickness indescribable — Fourth day— Captain Spaulding —First and second officers — Passengers in the cabin — Character of the expedi¬ tion— First Sabbath at sea— Police regulations— A rich treat— Centenary meeting —Results— Vessel ships a sea— Wind increases — Tremendous gale — North-east trade — Description of the trades —Whale — Allowance of water — Porpoise — Vessel — Amusing surprise — Astronomy — Northern constellations — Magellanic clouds— Interesting Sabbath— Land ho !— Cape Frio— Lighthouse— Splendid sce¬ nery— Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Historical sketch— Den John — Brazil indepen¬ dent— Don Pedro the first — Compelled to abdicate — State of the country- Foreign

. residents — Religion — City — Buildings — Missionaries — Slavery — Reflections. . 39

Contents

vi

CHAP. VI.— Exploring tour to the Umpqua— Preliminaries— Departure— Delight¬ ful country — Encampment — Amusing incident — Fording river — Mountain La Beache — Elk river — Umpqua l'ort — Indian fight — Frenchman in charge — Meeting with the Indians — Old chief’s confession — Hostile Indians — Danger of going among them — Resolved to go — Voyage to the coast — Indians accompany us — Interesting encampment— Indians on the coast— Meeting with them— Speeches of the chiefs — Results ol the meeting — Talk to God — Solicitude of our Protectress — Watching — Presents— Departure — Description of the country — Return to the lort — Story of the Frenchman’s wife — Dangers we had escaped — Perilous adventures of the mountaineers — Tour continued — mountainous country — Fording Elk river

— Giant tree — Aromatic tree — Umpqua Indians — Head chiefs— Shocking story —

Chapter I

History of the Oregon mission, from its commencement to the departure of the

great reinforcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne.

In the year 1832, four Indians, belonging to the Flat Head tribe, living west of the Rocky Mountains, per¬ formed a wearisome journey on foot to St. Louis, in Missouri, for the purpose of inquiring for the Christian’s Book and the white man’s God. Early in 1833, notice of this wonderful event was given in the Christian Advocate and Journal, published in New York, and a general feeling of Christian sympathy was produced in all the churches of the land for these interesting heathen, and a proposition was made that the Missionary Board of the Methodist Episcopal Church proceed forthwith to establish a mission among the Flat Head Indians. This measure was strongly advocated by Dr. Fisk, Dr. Bangs, and many others, while none were opposed to the accomplishment of so worthy an object. While the subject was being agitated, Dr. Fisk corresponded with the Rev. Jason Lee, of Stanstead, C. E., having for¬ merly been his tutor in the Wilbraham Academy, to ascertain whether he would undertake the superintend¬ ence of an Indian mission beyond the Rocky Mountains. Mr. Lee was then employed on an Indian mission, under the direction of the Church in Canada ; but yielding to the solicitations of Dr. Fisk, and from a conviction of duty, he left Canada, and repairing to Boston in June, 1

1833, where the New England Conference was then in session, he was received into that body as a member on probation, ordained by Bishop Hedding, and, on the recommendation of the Board of Managers of the Mis¬ sionary Society of the M. E. Church, was appointed to the superintendence of the Oregon mission.

In the following August, Rev. Daniel Lee, a nephew of Rev. Jason Lee, was appointed to labor in the same field. When they received their appointment, they knew of no way of getting to the field assigned them, unless they ventured alone across the continent, through hostile tribes, or could find some vessel bound to the • North-West coast, around Cape Horn, that would take them on board ; and they continued in suspense in regard to their mode of proceeding, until November, when notice appeared in the public journals that Captain N. J. Wyeth, of Cambridge, Mass., had recently re¬ turned from a tour west of the Rocky Mountains, and that he contemplated returning to Oregon in the follow¬ ing spring. On receiving this intelligence, J. Lee immediately repaired to Boston, had an interview with Capt. Wyeth, and readily obtained permission to accom¬ pany him back to Oregon. Capt. V/. had also made arrangements to send a vessel, called the “May Dacre,’ round to the Columbia river, loaded with goods ; and while in Boston Mr. Lee procured the necessary outfit for his mission, and shipped it on board of Capt. Wyeth’s vessel. Here, also, by the consent of the Board, Mr. Lee engaged Cyrus Shepard, a lay member of the church, to accompany him. During the interval be¬ tween the time that they received their appointment, and the period fixed upon for their departure, the Lees held a number of missionary meetings in various parts of the country, with very encouraging results. Early in March, 1834, they left New England for the west and on arriving in Missouri, P. L. Edwards, also a lay member, was connected with the mission party, which now numbered four.

This company, after holding a most interesting mis¬ sionary meeting at St. Louis, proceeded to Fori

THE OREGON MISSION.

*1

Independence, on the frontiers of Missouri, which is a place of general rendezvous before starting foi the mountains, where they met Capt. Wyeth and his party, on the 24th of April, 1834.

On the 25th, the expedition left Independence, and commenced their wearisome and perilous journey across the Rocky Mountains, and on the 20th of June they arrived at the general rendezvous of the American Fur Traders on Kane’s Fork, which is a branch of the Colo¬ rado of the West.

Here they continued till the 2nd of July, to recruit their jaded animals, and then proceeded on, and on the 15th, arrived at a place on the Snake river, west of the mountains, where Wyeth and his men built a trading station, which he called Fort Hall. Here the mission¬ aries tarried until the 30th of July ; and as Capt. Wyeth was detained longer for the purpose of linishing his fort, the mission party resolved to proceed, in company with Mr. Thomas McKay and Capt. Stewart, and on the first day of September they arrived in safety at F :>rt Walla Walla, on the Columbia river. They ascertained, on their journey down from Fort Hall, that the Flat Head tribe of Indians was not only very small, but very disadvantageously situated for the establishment and support of missionary operations among them; and this brought them to the determination to proceed down to the lower country, to find a more eligible site for the location of their mission.

Leaving their horses at Walla- Walla, they proceeded down the Columbia in one of the Hudson’s Bay Com¬ pany’s boats, and after a tedious voyage of eleven days, against strong head winds, they arrived in safety at Vancouver on the 15th of September, and the following night slept under a roof, for the first time for one hundred and fifty- two nights. Worn out with the ex¬ cessive labor and fatigue of their long journey, they could well appreciate the kind hospitality with which they were entertained by the gentlemen of the Fort but they gave themselves but two days to rest, and to consult with their hosts, who were well acquainted with all the Indian tribes, concerning the object they had in view ; and on the 18th, J. and D. Lee were off on an exploring tour through the country, to “ make observa¬ tions relative to the best location for the mission.”

Examining the Wallamette valley and other portions of the country, they returned to Vancouver on the 27th, still undecided as to the proper place to make the location.

The merits of the different portions of the country were considered, the Flat Heads, the Nez Perces, the Kayuses, and other tribes, were faithfully reviewed, but to the exclusion of all others, the Wallamette valley was strongly recommended by Dr. John McLaughlin and the rest of the gentlemen of Vancouver, as the most eligible place for the establishment of the centre of their ope¬ rations.

On Sunday, the 28th, Jason Lee preached twice at Vancouver, to a congregation of English, Irish, French, half-caste, &c., which were the first sermons ever preached in the place, and doubtless the first that many of the people had ever heard.

It was finally decided, “ after much prayer for direc¬ tion as to the place,” to locate the mission in the Wallamette valley, and as the brig May Dacre had safely arrived in the Columbia with the goods belonging to the mission, measures were immediately taken to receive them from Capt. Lambert, and convey them to the place selected for the station. The brig lay at the mouth of the Multnomah, or lower mouth of the Walla¬ mette, and the site for the mission was seventy-five miles up the river; but, after “much toil and hard labor,” Mr. Lee succeeded in getting up all the goods, and they were landed on the mission premises on the 6 th day of October.

The rainy season was commencing, and as they had no house to shelter either themselves or their goods from the inclemency of the weather, they went imme¬ diately to work to prepare logs, &c., to build a house. The rain fell in torrents long before their house was erected, yet they labored constantly during the day, and

THE OREGON MISSION.

IS at night were obliged to lie down together in a small tent, scarcely large enough to contain them, and, wrapped in their wet clothes, seek a few hours’ repose to prepare them for the toils and storms of the ensuing day. Their house was 32 feet by 18, and on the 3d of November they moved their goods into it, though they had put on but ten feet of the roof. So soon as they got their house thus partly covered, they began tr receive Indian children into their family, with the desigul of establishing a mission school, and also to labor for the spiritual benefit of a11 the Indians, and the few French people who had settled in the country. Meetings were established at the house of Mr. Joseph Gervais, and held every Sabbath, the principal attendants being French and half-caste.

On the 14th of December, Mr. Jason Lee visited Vancouver, where he preached, and baptized four adults and seventeen children. I-n consideration of these ser¬ vices he received, in donations, from the gentlemen of the company, the sum of twenty dollars, for the benefit of the mission. During the winter of 1835, the missiona¬ ries were alternately employed in improving their house, procuring supplies, preaching the gospel, and teacmng the Indian and half-caste children to read and write.

Thrown entirely upon their own resources, in the spring, to guard against future want, they commenced cultivating the ground. There was no alternative; they must do so, or starve. While they saw some fruits of their labors in other respects, this department of their work, during the summer, was greatly prospered, for in the fall, after they gathered in their crops, they found themselves with a good supply of wheat, peas, oats, and barley, and two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes in their cellar. This, with six barrels of salmon which J. Lee purchased fresh of the Indians at the Wallamette Falls, and salted with his own hands, and took up the river to the mission, furnished them with the means of subsistence for the following year.

Soon after the missionaries first arrived, Mr. Cyrus Shepard was employed at Vancouver, to teach the chil dren belonging to the Fort, but losing his health, he was obliged to leave his school. On the 1st of March he ascended the river in company with Mr. Lee, and from that time remained on the Wallamette station.

Late in August a circumstance happened which shows to what dangers the missionaries were exposed. A boy whose Indian name was Ken-o-teesh, belonging to the Si-le-lah tribe, was received into the mission in April, and died on the 19th of the following August. A few days after his death, his brother came to the mission, determined to seek revenge for the death of Ken-oteesh, by taking the life of Daniel Lee and Cyrus Shepard. He remained over night, and was prevented from accomplishing his design only by the interposition of an Indian who accompanied him. Bent upon glut¬ ting his vengeance on somebody, he crossed the river, and fell upon a band of unarmed Indians, and savagely murdered several of them.

In the month of September, nearly the whole mission family were attacked with the intermittent fever, and the mission house was converted into an hospital, with¬ out an attending physician. A scene of distress now presented itself, and our missionaries not only suffered personally, but were obliged to descend to the most menial services, in waiting upon the Indian children, for whose comfort they manifested the utmost care.

Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr. P. L. Edwards left the mission premises the last of September, the former for Vancouver to obtain medical aid, and the latter to embark on board the Brig May Dacre for the United States. Remaining awhile at Vancouver without bene¬ fit to his health, Mr. Lee, by the advice of Dr. Mc¬ Laughlin, embarked on board one of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s ships, bound for the Sandwich Islands, and in consequence of this, Mr. Edwards relinquished the idea of leaving the country at that time, and returned to the mission, and late in October established a school for the winter, at Campment du Sable, or Champoeg.

To provide for future contingencies, the missionaries sowed that fall twenty-seven bushels of wheat.

THE OREGON MISSION.

On the 26th of November, the Rev. Mr. Parker a Presbyterian Clergyman from the State of New York, arrived at the mission, where he was most cordially received. He had been sent out by the A. B. C. F. M. to explore the country, and ascertain the most eligible site for a mission. He remained at the station two days only, when he returned to Vancouver. Dr. Marcus Whitman accompanied him over the Rocky Mountains, but on arriving at the Snake river, the doctor returned to the States for the purpose of inducing the Board to appoint missionaries forthwith to Oregon.

The enlargement of the mission family by receiving Indian children from time to time, rendered it necessary, at the close of this year, for the missionaries to build an addition to their house, 32 by 16 feet. This they did principally with their own hands. In reviewing the year, the missionaries found cause for thankfulness in the success which had attended their labors, though they had been called to pass through some trying scenes, and to meet with many discouragements. They had received fifteen children into the family, of whom four had died, and one had been dismissed, leaving ten under their instruction. These were making rapid progress in manners, science, and useful labor ; and by the bless¬ ing of God the missionaries had a sufficiency of whole¬ some food for themselves and the children.

In February, 1836, hearing it rumored abroad that certain Americans, who had arrived in the country, were about to commence the manufacture of rum, and fearing, from a knowledge of the material of which the Oregon community was composed, that intemperance would sweep over their field of labor, the missionaries invited the settlers to the mission house, and formed the Oregon Temperance Society, the first organized west of the Rocky Mountains. Three only, besides the members of the mission, signed the pledge at first, but subsequently the number increased to eighteen.

About the first of March a vessel arrived in the Co¬ lumbia from the Sandwich Islands, bringing intelligence that the health of Daniel Lee had much improved, but for the general good of the cause he had concluded tc remain till another opportunity should present itself for returning to Oregon. The natives of Oahu had made a contribution to Mr. Lee for the benefit of the Oregon mission, amounting to two hundred and fifty dollars. At the same rime that this intelligence reached the mis¬ sion, a letter was received by Jason Lee from Dr McLaughlin, inclosing a subscription for the benefit of the mission, to the amount of one hundred and thirty dollars, all from the gentlemen at Vancouver. As the letter shows in what light these intelligent persons viewed the mission at that time, I insert a copy. It is as follows :

“Fort Vancouver, 1st March, 1836.

The Rev. Jason Lee :

Dear Sir , — I do myself the pleasure to hand you the inclosed subscription, which the gentlemen who have signed it request you will do them the favor to accept for the use of the mission, and they pray our Heavenly Father, without whose assistance we can do nothing, that of his infinite mercy he may vouchsafe to bless and prosper jfrour pious endeavors — and believe me to be, with esteem and regard, your sincere well wisher and humble servant,

John McLaughlin. ”

The business of the mission continued as usual, with¬ out any thing especial taking place, until the 30th of April, when we find Mr. J. Lee at the death bed of G. Sergent, a native of New England, whom he found in extreme agony both of body and mind. As Mr. Lee entered, the dying man told him that as he had lived a life of wickedness, he was about to die an awful death. The missionary pointed him to the Redeemer of the world, and commended him to God in prayer. He ap¬ peared deeply affected, and responding a hearty amen , in a short time ceased to breathe.

Teaching the children, preaching to both the settlers and natives, visiting the sick, attending funerals, and

THE OREGON MISSION.

harvesting their crops, employed the time of the mis¬ sionaries during the summer ; and in the fall, to make their “bread sure,” they sowed thirty-four bushels of wheat.

In the latter part of August there arrived a vessel in the Columbia river from England, by the way of the Sandwich Islands, having on board the Rev. Daniel Lee, who had recovered his health, and Rev. Mr. Beaver and lady. Mr. Beaver had been sent out as chaplain to the Hudson’s Bay Company at Vancouver. He was a clergyman of the Church of England. Mr. Lee arrived at the mission at a very seasonable time to render himself useful, not only in his appropriate mis¬ sionary work, but a^so in assisting to take care of the sick members of the mission family. At this time Mr. .1. Lee was suffering under a severe attack of the inter¬ mittent fever. Partially recovering from this attack, he started for Vancouver on the 6th of September, taking with him a favorite Indian girl whom he called Lucy Uedding, to obtain medical aid in her behalf.

On the 12th, he returned, bringing information of the arrival at Walla- Walla of the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and wife, Dr. Whitman and wife, and Mr. Grey, who had been sent out as missionaries by the A. B. C. F. M. As Mr. Lee had taken the lower country, they decided upon locating their mission in the interior, among the Kayuse and Nez Perce Indians. These were the first American ladies that ever crossed the Rocky Mountains, and their arrival in the country formed an epoch in the history of Oregon.

During the month of September, nearly all the mission family were sick at once, with the intermittent fever, and another was taken to Vancouver, by Mr. Edwards, for medical aid. Mr. Edwards returned on the 30th, bringing with him Lucy Hedding, who had received no benefit from medicine. She died on the 5th of October.

On the 22nd, J. Lee had a third attack of the fever, so severe as to deprive him of reason for a short time. He continued to suffer, without medical advice, until the 21st of November, when, in a very reduced state, he 1* set out for Vancouver, where he arrived two days afterwards.

During his absence, died Joseph Pournaffe, a member of the mission school, aged 17 years. This lad was very attentive to religious instruction, and left off play and work on the Sabbath, immediately on being told it was wrong. He often expressed much thankfulness that the missionaries had come to the country, to learn him to read, and tell him about God. He was a pro¬ mising youth, and, if he had lived, would probably have been a blessing to the country. As it was, the missiona¬ ries had much consolation in his death, for he gave them satisfaction that their labors had not been in vain.

On the 28th of December, after an absence of five weeks, J. Lee returned from Vancouver with his health somewhat improved, though still quite feeble.

Eighteen children and adults had been admitted into the mission family during this year ; two had died and one had run away. The missionaries found on their hands, the last day of December, twenty-five persons ; but having enlarged their farming operations, by the blessing of God they found themselves in the possession of supplies amply sufficient to sustain them untL anotner larvest.

On the 2nd day of January, 183" the members of me mission found cause to rally their forces, to support the cause of temperance. A meeting of the Temperance Society was called at the mission house ; one member who had violated the pledge, was excluded, and three more were added to the Society. As the reports con¬ cerning the distillation of ardent spirits were about to be verified by a couple of men, named Young and Carmi¬ chael, it was unanimously resolved by the meeting to send them a written request, signed by all the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, to desist from their unholy enterprise. The following is a copy of the correspond¬ ence which took place between the Society and Messrs. Young & Carmichael, and is inserted to show what stand the missionaries took in guarding the morals of the community, and the extent of the influence they

THE OREGON MISSION.

exerted. But for these measures, intemperance would have devastated the country.

“ Messrs. Young & Carmichael:

“ Gentlemen , — Whereas we, the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, have learned with no common interest, and with feelings of deep regret that you are now preparing a distillery for the purpose of manufacturing ardent spirits, to be sold in this vicinity; and, whereas, we are most fully convinced that the vending of spiritous liquors will more effectually para¬ lyze our efforts for the promotion of temperance, than any other, or all other obstacles that can be thrown in our way; and, as we do feel a lively and intense interest in the success of the temperance cause, believing as we do, that the prosperity and interests of this infant and rising settlement will be materially affected by it, both as it respects its temporal and spiritual welfare, and that the poor Indians, whose case is even now indescribably wretched, will be made far more so by the use of ardent spirits ; and whereas, gentlemen, you are not ignorant that the laws of the United States prohibit American citizens from selling ardent spirits to Indians under the penalty of a heavy fine ; and as you do not pretend to justify yourselves, but urge pecuniary interest as the reason of your procedure ; and as we do not, cannot think it will be of pecuniary interest to you to prosecute this business ; and as we are not enemies, but friends, and do not wish, under existing circumstances, that you should sacrifice one penny of the money you have already expended ; we, therefore, for the above, and various other reasons which we could urge,

“1st. Resolved, That we do most earnestly and feel¬ ingly request you, gentlemen, forever to abandon your enterprise.

“ 2nd. Resolved, That we will and do hereby agree to pay you the sum you have expended, if you will give us the avails of your expenditures, or deduct from them the bill of expenses.

(i 3d. Resolved , That a committee of one be appointed to make known the views of this society, and presenl our request to Messrs. Young & Carmichael.

“ 4th. Resolved , That the undersigned will pay the sums severally affixed to our names, to Messrs. Young & Carmichael, on or before, the thirty-first day of March next, the better to enable them to give up their project.”