William McCutchan Morrison : twenty years in central Africa

Front matter

Uinstm

DR. MORRISON

By

CHAPTER II Stye Hogagf

Sails from Philadelphia — The Voyage to Liverpool — In London — To Antwerp — The Voyage to Matadi — At the Canary Islands — First Glimpse of the Dark Continent — At the Swedish Mission at Matadi.

The first stage of the voyage to the Congo was begun on November the /th, when Morrison sailed from Philadelphia. His companion in travel was Mr. J. C. Crowley, who had just received his appointment and was going out as the business manager of the African Mission. From November the 9th on to the end of the voyage Mr. Morrison's diary is dotted with such exclamations as these, "Sick! Awful sick !" which form a familiar part of every untried seaman's vocabulary.

He recovered sufficiently, however, during the voyage to act as chairman of the committee on arrangements for the concert given on board the ship for the benefit of the Seamen's Orphans' Home.

The last day of the voyage is described as the "most beautiful of all with a sea as smooth as glass." They landed at Liverpool on November the 14th and proceeded thence by train to London where they were met by Mr. Robert Whyte, the agent for the Mission.

It must be remembered that Mr. Morrison was going to a country in which there were no stores of any kind and he was to be absolutely cut off from all the conveniences of modern civilization. This is true to-day to a very great extent and the missionary must still look after his own personal supplies.

Mr. Morrison spent several days purchasing an outfit and securing supplies sufficient to last him for two or three i8 years. When this task was completed the few days left at his disposal were spent in visiting some of the places of historic interest in wonderful old London.

On the evening prior to his departure for the Congo he went to the East London Institute, a missionary training school, to a farewell meeting in honor of Mr. Armstrong, who was also leaving for Africa, and they became companions in travel. They departed that night for Harwich, crossing the English Channel on a "choppy sea" and reaching Antwerp the next morning. They had secured passage on the "Edward Bohlen," but had great difficulty in geting on board on account of a throng of some ten thousand people, who had assembled to see the boat off, and were "rushing and crushing, pushing, chattering and gesticulating in the usual excitable French fashion." Mr. Morrison, after this struggle, expressed the conviction that these people could get up more excitement over the departure of a single vessel, that was none too large for sea-going purposes, than Americans or English could possibly muster over the departure of an entire fleet.

"A rough sea, the stuffy and musty cabins and the abominable German cooking, with eight courses of meat swimming in grease" together with a very severe storm, added nothing to the pleasure of the voyage. Another vessel sailing on the same day went down in this storm off the coast of Cape Finisterre, but theirs was providentially spared. Morrison took all these unpleasant experiences in his usual good tempered fashion and we read in his diary, "You will notice that there is a hiatus of several days in my diary; yes and there is a hiatus somewhere else, too."

They reached the Canary Islands, where they stopped to coal, after a two weeks' voyage. The passengers were given the opportunity of going on shore to refresh themselves on the beautiful island and to secure a good wholesome meal at an English hotel.

Again referring to his diary we read these words, "When I reached the ship, which lay at anchor in the harbor, I looked back upon the view, which lay before me, and it was one of the most enchanting sights I have ever seen ; a beautiful land-locked harbor, crescent shaped, teeming with ships of every nation, small steam craft and canoes ; the shore skirted with white buildings with the main part of the town far off to the left and arranged in tiers up the mountain side ; then in the background a magnificent spectacle of mountain upon mountain and peak upon peak towering six thousand feet into the air. Surely I have never before beheld such a strange, fascinating view. As the sun was setting beyond the distant mountain ranges, as the fleecy clouds stretched their blankets upon the peak tops or dipped into the dark shadows of the valleys, and showed their edges fringed with gold and silver and amethyst— it was indeed a view long to be remembered.

"After reaching the ship, we were informed by an Englishman, who lives in the town, that it was well that we made no display of being Americans, for the Spaniards are now in a veritable frenzy against the United States on account of the Cuban trouble. I can only say that if Las Palmas is a type of Spanish civilization, then the sooner Cuba is freed from the thraldom of such a power the better - — though I doubt if they would be able to govern themselves with much success."

After this most pleasant and refreshing day spent on the island they weighed anchor and were off on the last stage of the long voyage. On the night of December the 18th three light houses were sighted on Cape Verde, the first glimpse of the Dark Continent. The little group of Christians on board met in Mr. Morrison's cabin and he conducted a service of thanksgiving for God's protecting care over them.

The remainder of the voyage on the southern seas was quiet and uneventful. They landed at Boma. the Capital of the Congo Independent State, on December the 31st. In those early days the ocean going vessels did not attempt to ascend the Congo to Matadi, on account of the gigantic "Devil's Caldron," which is formed where the entire volume of this mighty river is forced into a very narrow passage between two perpendicular cliffs. Passengers disembarked at Boma and awaited a smaller vessel from Matadi, and several days later they arrived at the "Gateway of Central Africa."

There were no hotels at that time worthy of the name, so Dr. Morrison and his companions were entertained at the Swedish Mission for a few days while making the final preparations for the long journey into the heart of Africa.

Chapter III

On the Congo Railroad — Scenery along the Way — Traveling by Caravan — In the Midst of Sickness and Death at Leopoldville — On the River Steamer* for Luebo — Thanksgiving at the End of the Voyage.

By a peculiar freak of nature the mighty Congo River is blocked to traffic for two hundred and fifty miles above Matadi. The river, in seeking an outlet to the sea, plunges down steep declines and through narrow gorges forming a series of cataracts beautiful to behold but creating an impassable barrier to navigation. To overcome this natural barrier and to tap the resources of the interior, a narrow guage railroad was projected from Matadi to the upper stretches of the river. This railroad, when Mr. Morrison arrived in the country, was still under construction, less than one half of it being completed and under operation.

On the morning of January the 13th we find him buying a ticket to Tumba, a distance of about one hundred miles, for the "snug little sum of forty-five dollars," or eleven dollars more than the passage from Philadelphia to Liverpool. This railroad was and still is, the only one in this part of Africa and therefore they regulate their own rates without fear of competition. The rates have been slightly reduced since that time but they are still exorbitantly high and continue to be a drain on the finances of the Mission.

The accommodations were practically nil, each passenger having to furnish his own meals, drinking water and all other necessities of life.

Mr. Morrison describes the scenery along the way as . follows :

"The train is booked to leave at 6 :30 a.m. but catching the spirit of Congo life it is an hour late in starting. Finally the whistle of the little engine blows a shrill note, I bid my Swedish friends good-bye and am off into the heart of Africa. The train is composed of a small engine, said to be American make, a 'luggage van' with a tarpaulin cover, and a passenger coach with seats for nine. The road is narrow gauge, exceedingly narrow, but well ballasted and having iron ties on account of the destructive white ants.

"We have now passed the limits of the town and are in the midst of some of the most rugged mountain scenery I have ever beheld. For five miles, perhaps, we skirt the Congo River, clinging to the sides of the overhanging cliffs. A magnificent view, the boiling, foaming, rushing torrent of the mighty Congo, penned in between two mountains and restless for freedom. The opposite shore and tableland are covered with green grass, with the blue mountains rising hundreds of feet into the air, far in the dim distance. Yonder in the distance towers a giant monolith, resembling the pictures of the Matterhorn — certainly the grandest mountain scenery I have ever beheld.

"It was no small engineering feat to put this road through, some of the grades being at an angle of at least twenty degrees.

"This in an interesting region from a geological standpoint. This region was doubtless once a sea beach and afterwards pushed up through internal contraction of the earth. Nature has indeed a wonderland here ; the interior earth has pushed up a mass of mountains, running water has chiselled it into myriad forms, the rains and dew have painted it a rich green, while the sunbeams have mosaiced the whole with red tinted flowers.

"As we near Tumba, great masses of weather-beaten granite are seen scattered over the plains.

"Having no 'tender' to carry water we have to stop every three-quarters of an hour during the whole distance for watering. I have not seen a living thing during the whole day save the men about the little railroad stations which we passed. There are no depots, only a rude hut where the native agent lives.

"Now we are at Tumba at 7:30 p.m., twelve hours making one hundred miles. Here I am met by Phipps, a colored missionary, who was occupying our small transport station. I am taken to his quarters, consisting of a small house 8 by 10 feet made of tin or rather imported iron. After supper we chat awhile and then go to bed. I occupy Phipps' bed and he sleeps on the floor — certainly all social and color distinctions are gone now."

Many days were spent at Tumba in securing a sufficient number of men to make up a caravan, "the necessity and despair of every African traveller." Finally they succeeded in getting together eighteen men and Mr. Morrison had his first introduction to travel in the primitive African style in a hammock carried on the heads or shoulders of native men. This trip was made along the regular route established by the government of the Congo Independent State. While on the journey he got his first glimpse of the State's inhuman methods of dealing with the native people. He passed many caravans composed of men and even little boys, heavily laden and groaning under burdens of rubber and ivory, on their way to enrich the coffers of the cruel master of the Congo. Quite frequently human skeletons were seen lying unburied by the road side, and now and then foul odors attracted his attention, testifying to the horrible fact that another human victim had been heartlessly sacrificed to the god of gold set up by Leopold, king of Belgium, before whom the native must bow down or die.

In marked contrast to this repulsive condition was the little caravan with which Mr. Morrison was travelling. Most of them were Christians, and he became very fond of them. "It was almost worth a trip to Africa to see these half naked boys of the forest, but lately heathen, now singing praise to God and pleading with their brethren to accept the Saviour they had found. I believe that some of the men in the caravan had never heard of Christ. They listened as if it were a new story to them. I did so long to speak to them, but my tongue was tied by a language that I did not know. I tried, however, to^make my poor, imperfect life speak for Christ-— it was all I could do."

The overland journey was not accomplished without hardships and vexations. They were travelling in the midst of the rainy season and were frequently drenched. They had to swim many heavily swollen streams infested with crocodiles. Time was and still is no object to the African. Quite frequently the men of the caravan would deposit their burdens in the middle of the road and go off to some village two or three miles in the distance to a native market. The result was that it took twelve days to make the journey to Leopoldville, a distance of about one hundred and fifty miles, reaching there just too late to catch the steamer for Luebo. This was a great trial and disappointment to Mr. Morrison, as it meant many long weeks of weary waiting for the next boat. He was anxous to press on as quickly as possible and settle down to his work.

He describes his stay at Leopoldville in his first letter written to the "Missionary" as follows : "Here, with Dr. Sims, I have been in the midst of sickness and death, five white men having died in as many weeks. How sad to see these poor men die here in a far-away land, with no loved one to shed a tear at their departure ! In the state cemetery there is a grave at the head of which stands a board bearing simply the words, 'May Snyder, 1896.' But no eulogy or epitaph is needed. Standing over the last resting place of this sainted heroine, I thought of her self-sacrificing life, of her consecration and devotion to duty, of her willingness to stay at her post at Luebo till the last hope of relief had gone, of her heroism that is worthy to place her name high among the list of missionary martyrs; then I thought of the boys and girls at Luebo whom she had, by her life of purity and holiness, pointed to the Saviour, and I knew more fully the meaning of the words, 'He that loseth his life for my sake shall find it.' Our church is now more closely than ever knit to Africa, for in her soil now lie Lapsley, Mrs. Adamson and Mrs. Snyder. Precious seed ! May it bear an abundant harvest in this dark, dark land ! But we sorely need more harvesters. Who will come over and help us? And who, 'while tarrying with the stuff,' will send?"

Here Mr. Morrison suffered his first attack of African fever, brought on by exposure during the overland journey. Food of any kind was very scarce and delicacies suitable for the sick were practically unknown. The fever continued at 105 degrees for many days and they despaired of his life. But finally some one brought him a cup of fresh cow's milk, and on drinking this he began to mend and rapidly recovered his former health. Thus God put His seal of approval upon the conviction that He had called him to labor in this portion of His vineyard and assured him of the fact that "Man is immortal till his work is done."

At last the long expected steamer arrived, and Mr. Morrison, together with Phipps, secured passage to Luebo. Mr. Crowley was left behind at Tumba to assume the duties of business manager of the Mission and look after the transportation of the supplies. The journey of some nine hundred miles on the waters of the Congo, Kasai and Lulua Rivers, amid the varied beauty of the tropical scenery, was accomplished in a few weeks' time. They arrived at their destination on May the 7th, 1897, having been on the way six months.

Mr. Morrison again writes : "Luebo, hallelujah ! All well and all here. They report the work in a most flourishing condition, with five hundred at church last Sunday. Oh, for a full demonstration of the Spirit's power! I am delighted with the surroundings, though I have only seen the place by twilight. Praise the Lord for bringing me here in peace and safety."

CHAPTER IV ICabcra at 3hattrl}p

Picture of Luebo at the Time of His Arrival — Established at Ibanche — A New Name — Mastering the Language — Difficulties to Be Faced in Bible Translation — Studying the Customs of the People— Burial of a Chief — Forced to Abandon Ibanche — Hostile Attitude of the State toward Protestant Missions.

When Mr. Morrison reached Luebo, the Mission consisted of one station, occupied by eight missionaries, three of whom were white; one Sabbath School, with an enrollment of fifty; one day school with an average attendance of forty-six and one organized church of forty-eight communicant members. The equipment consisted of four or five small missionary residences made of mud and sticks, a small church shed which also served as a school building, a general store in which the barter goods and other necessary articles were kept and a few other minor buildings. These were all built in the midst of the primeval forest, as the station compound had not yet been cleared.

Prior to the arrival of Mr. Morrison in the field, the Mission had secured the temporary right to open a new station at Ibanche, some forty miles to the north of Luebo and within the confines of the Bakuba kingdom. This station was first occupied by Rev. W. H. Sheppard and wife and Rev. Joshua Phipps. Early in 1897 the Sheppards left for America on furlough, Phipps was returned to Luebo and Mr. Morrison was assigned to Ibanche. He set to work with a vim, clearing off the station and erecting temporary quarters for himself. The Bakuba people about the station were not over industrious, and Morrison had to build his house of sticks and grass with his own hands.

It was a small structure, 12x15 feet; "pretty close quarters," he writes, "but more than my Master had."

One of the first things demanded of the missionary to Africa is the adoption of a new name, since it is quite impossible for the natives to pronounce our English names. In the giving of names the natives of central Africa are not unlike the ancient Hebrews, in that a person may receive his title from some characteristic which he possesses. The people are also great on namesakes, and quite frequently the missionary may be named for some prominent chief or other distinguished personage in the realm. In this respect the native logic is very peculiar, especially when applied to the missionary. If he is named for some great man in the realm he must show his appreciation of the fact by presenting a gift to the man for whom he is named. Also, when the missionary has gained enough distinction among the people to have some newly born babe named for him, he must manifest his appreciation of this honor by presenting his namesake with a gift. Mr. Morrison was fortunate enough to be named according to the first method, but his financial obligations were increased by a multitude of namesakes.

Shortly after his arrival at Ibanche he returned to Luebo on business. During his absence war broke out between two of the tribes to the north of Luebo. These tribes lived on the main highway between Ibanche and Luebo and communication between the two places was cut off. /his condition of affairs resulted in considerable financial ioss to the people in the region of Ibanche, for Luebo was a great commercial center and traders from all sections were gathered there at the market on Saturdays.

When the conflict had quieted down Mr. Morrison very cautiously returned to Ibanche. While en route he called in the contending parties and succeeded in making peace between them. When he reached Ibanche the good news had spread far and wide, and people came in from all sections to congratulate him and to thank him for opening the path to traffic. And as they were leaving they said to him, "kuonyi nshila," or "Don't let the path get closed again"; thus Dr. Morrison received this expression as his native name. Time proved him to be not only a true peace-maker, but also one who opened up new paths for them.

The Mission, at this stage of its history, had no definite policy of working among tribes of a common language. The burdens of the new missionary were manifestly increased in an effort to acquire a smattering of two or three dialects. No one had done any systematic work on any particular language, and the only literature Morrison had at his disposal was a small dictionary of a few hundred words. Now the Mission was beginning to set its face toward the great Bakuba Kingdom, with the hope of ultimately concentrating all its efforts upon that tribe. In accordance with this plan, Morrison began a systematic study of that language. He faithfully applied his great intellect and natural linguistic gifts to this task. He was a methodical student and kept a careful record of all his findings. The result was that within a very few months after his arrival he was able to preach in the Bakuba language and experienced great joy when the people began to ask intelligent questions concerning his discourses. He organized classes for those who expressed a desire to become Christians. This daily contact with the people was mutually beneficial, in that he was able to teach them the truths of the gospel and at the same time study their language and obtain some insight into their characters and modes of thought.

He was ever looking forward to Bible translation, knowing that the "sword of ' the Spirit" is the only effective weapon the missionary has at his disposal. In beginning this task he found himself face to face with almost insurmountable difficulties. He refers to these in his diary : "I am almost oppressed with discouragement when I think of Bible translation. Three great monsters arise before me in the darkness : first of all, my work is with the very bottom of humanity — perhaps as low as the lowest, with an unbroken history of perhaps thousands of years of ignorance, superstition and spiritual darkness. Another difficulty is the fact that all the customs, manners, pursuits and minds of the people are so different from the people described in Bible history. The worst of it is that these people can form no conception of these strange customs and circumstances. But perhaps the greatest obstacle of all and the most discouraging is the fact that after I have spent many weary years in translation work, not one man can read a word of what I have written. In the majority of mission lands, the people can read and a great work can be done at once in translating the Bible and in writing religious tracts. But here in poor Africa that important means of spreading the Truth can not be employed. In fact, I have not seen a single character that seems to indicate the most remote conception of a written language."

Dr. Morrison soon began to form his own ideas and ideals as to the method best suited to the prosecution of the work in Africa, and these methods gradually became the policy of the Mission and continue in use until the present day. He further writes in his diary : "In view of the difficulties before mentioned, I am thoroughly convinced that our first work should be in the school, then follow this up with catechisms for general religious instruction of all people whom it. is possible to reach ; then paraphrase the Scriptures and last, but not least, the Bible." He maintained that the school should be conducted with a zeal and with a fixed purpose to make something out of it. He also urged that special attention should be paid to those who showed aptness to learn. The best of these were to be selected and given personal attention with a view of leading them to religious work and ultimately into the ministry. He realized that the most effective method for the propagation of truth was that which our Lord employed — namely, a great leader coming into intimate contact with a band of chosen disciples.

Mr. Morrison took advantage of every opportunity to study the customs and characteristics of the people to obtain a deeper insight into their lives. Soon after reaching Ibanche he attended a native funeral and observed what the native conduct was in the presence of death. He relates his impressions as follows : "Early this morning I heard the blowing of horns and other peculiar noises so went out to see what it meant. I found the town all agog. Children were dressed in their best, the ladies had adorned their 'Sunday-go-to-meetin's,' and the men, not to be behind the procession, had diked themselves in their finest. Some of the men were gotten up in the most outlandish and frightful costumes, consisting of native cloth of various colors, animal skins, feathers, charms, medicines, bells, knives, spears, with cowrie shell and bead work on the ankles and heads and with the face and other bare parts of the body painted red, white and black. These men were rushing about the streets, gesticulating wildly and wielding big cutlasses and looking the personification of satanic savagery. I found upon inquiry that the people were all going to a nearby village to have a big dance in honor of a dead chief.

Though it was now about noon and intensely hot, yet I thought it my duty to be informed as far as possible concerning the customs of the people, so I concluded to go over and see the performance. Upon my arrival there I found several sheds erected in the open square, with mats laid on the ground for the accommodation of the spectators. In one of these sheds sat the corpse on an elevated platform and in an erect posture. The body was wrapped in fine native cloth with bead and cowrie work in abundance. On the platform lay the man's spear, bow and arrows, cutlass and other trinkets. Under and about the central platform the people, to the number of several hundred, were dancing in that unbecoming style characteristic of the Bakuba. They all seemed to be enjoying the sport immensely and, I think, would be glad to have a man die every day of the week for the sake of the dance.

"A number of men were sitting under the shed, near the corpse and seemed to have charge of it. At their invitation I sat among them, as the body had not yet begun to decompose. I saw no evidence whatever of sorrow. I think the sorrowing part takes place at night and is done by the women.

"Nearly all the people who went from the village took cloth, beads, etc., to put in the grave of the dead man. I was told that he would not be buried for five days, so decided not to remain. It is also reported that four Baluba slaves are to be killed and buried beside him. The Bakuba seem to realize that this is a hideous and revolting crime, and I have not been able to get much information out of them about it."

Some days later he went back to the village and found that the funeral had not taken place, but "the body had been put into a large neat coffin, which resembled in appearance a small hut. The frame work seemed to be of bamboo, while the sides and top were made of fine mats cut into proper shape. Under the sheds near the coffin I found groups of people to whom I tried, in my broken way, to tell the Gospel story and endeavored to impress upon them the need of salvation. I used the case of the dead man to explain the origin of death, which to these poor people is the mystery of mysteries. I also tried to show them the folly of burying cowries, beads, cloth, etc., with the corpse, to say nothing of killing slaves ; but from all appearances they preferred to believe a lie. Verily, the devil has blinded their eyes and stopped their ears.

"I was told that the burial would take place in the afternoon so I returned home for dinner with the hope of going back immediately, but a threatening rain prevented my doing so. By the time the rain was over and I had walked back to the village the obsequies were finished. I was unable to get at the exact facts regarding the killing of the slaves. The Bakuba all deny it, while the Baluba just as strenuously affirm it. It is my impression, however, that no slaves are killed by anyone save Lukenga, the King of the Bakuba, who demands a monopoly of the business."

A strong bond of mutual friendship sprang up between Mr. Morrison and the Bakuba people. It was therefore a great trial and disappointment to him when, after a few months' residence among them, he received peremptory notice from the State that the station at Ibanche must be vacated within fifteen days. Similar orders were received at the same time at a new station that had just been opened at Ndombe, to the southwest of Luebo. This is one of the most discouraging and unjust conditions with which the Protestant Missions in the Congo have always had to deal ; and this, notwithstanding the fact that absolute religious freedom is guaranteed in the "Treaty of Berlin," on which the Congo Independent State was founded. We regret to say that this guarantee never has been fulfilled, so far as this particular Mission is concerned. To-day, after thirty years of labor for the uplift of the native people, we can secure the site for a mission station only after the strongest protests and a prolific correspondence, often covering a period of several years. The first letter that Mr. Morrison wrote to a State official was a protest against the abandonment of these two stations, and almost the last official letter he wrote, twenty years later, was against a similar condition in regard to one of the stations in the Baluba country.