Life on the plains of the Pacific

Front matter

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Table Of Contents

CHAP I —History of the Oregon mission, from its commencemeut to the denariure of the great rein<^urcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne. . , J

CHAP. H. — Journal of a voyage from New York to Orosron — Time ami circumstances o( depariure-FirtJt evenin-'— Last look at the Hi:rhlanils-Iniiiatory rites -Great distress — Sea sickness indescribable — Fourth day— Captain Spaulding -First and second officers — Passengers in the cabin — Character of the expedition—First Sabbath at sea— Police regulations— A rich treat— Centenary meeting — Results- Vessel shijjs a sea— Wind increases — Tremendous gale— North-easl trade — Description of the trades —Whale — Allowance of water — Porpoi^^e — Vessel —Amusing surprise— Astronomy— Norihern constellations — Mau'ellanic clouds— Interesung Sabbath-Land ho !— Cape Frio— Lighthouse— Splendid scenery—Arrival at Iliode Janeiro — Historical sketch— Don John— Brazil independent—Don Pe(h-o tlie first— Compelled to abdicate— State of the country- Forei°-n residents— Religion— City— Buildings— Missionaries— Slavery— Reflections. . 38

CHAP. IH.— Journal continued — Departure from Rio— Rev. Mr. Spauldin<^ — French fleet— Violent storm -Flying jib boom carried awav— Dinner lost— Storm abates— Christmas— Heat— Doubling Cape Horn — Gale nineteen days — Under bare poles- Prosperity- Sight of land- Brig Andes-Arrival at Valparaiso- Small pox— Danger-Description of the city— Its civil and political condition— Religion— Superstition, illustrated by amusing incidents— Protestantism— Importance of Valparaiso— Adventures round about the city — Great discrenancy— Appropriate name • 82

Chapter I

History of the Oregon mission, from its commencement to the departure of the great reinforcement, in the fall of 1839, in the ship Lausanne.

In the year 1832, four Indians, belonging to the Flat Head tribe, living west of the Rocky Mountains, performed a wearisome journey on foot ,to St. Louis, in Missouri, for the purpose of inquiring for the Christian's Book and the white man's God. Early in 1833, notice of this wonderful event was given in the Christian Advocate and Journal, published in New York, and a general feeling of christian sympathy was produced in all the churches of the land for these interesting heathen, and a proposition was made that the Missionary Board of the Methodist Episcopal Church proceed forthwith to establish a mission among the Flat Head Indians. This measure was strongly advocated by Dr. Fisk, Dr. Bangs, and many others, while none were opposed to the accomplishment of so worthy an object. While the subject was being agitated, Dr. Fisk corresponded with the Rev. Jason Lee, of Stanstead, C. E., having formerly been his tutor in the Wilbraham Academy, to ascertain whether he would undertake the superintendence of an Indian mission beyond the Rocky Mountains. Mr. Lee was then employed on an Indian mission, under the direction of the Church in Canada ; but yielding to the solicitations of Dr. Fisk, and from a conviction of duty, he left Canada, and repairing to Boston in June, 1

10 HISTORY Ol"

1833, where the New England Confercjncc was then m session, he was received into that body as a member on probation, ordained by Bishop Ileddiug, and, ^on the recommendation of the Board of Managers of the Missionary Society of the M. E. Church, was appointed to the superintendence of the Oregon mission.

In the following August, Rev. Daniel Lee, a nephew of Rev. Jason Lee, was appointed to labor in the same field. When they received their appointment, they knevv^ of no way of getting to the field assigned them, unless they ventured alone across the continent, through hostile tribes, or could find some vessel bound to the North- West coast, around Cape Horn, that would take them on board ; and they continued in suspense in regard to their mode of proceeding, until November, when notice appeared in the public journals that Captain N. J. Wyeth, of Cambridge, Mass., had recently returned from a tour west of the Rocky Mountains, and that he contemplated returning to Oregon in the following spring. On receiving this intelligence, J. Lee immediately repaired to Boston, had an interview with Capt. Wyeth, and readily obtained permission to accompany him back to Oregon. Capt. W. had also made arrangements to send a vessel, called the "May Dacre," round to the Columbia river, loaded with goods ; and Vv^hile in Boston Mr. Lee procured the necessary outfit for his mission, and shipped it on board of Capt. Wyeth's vessel. Here, also, by the coUvSent of the Board, Mr. Lee engaged Cyrus Shepard, a lay member of the church, to accompany him. During the interval between the time that- they received their appointment, and the period fixed upon for their departure, the Lees held a number of missionary meetings in various parts of the country, with very encouraging results. Early in March, 1 834, they left New England for the west, and on arriving in Missouri, P. L. Edwards, also a lay member, was connected with the mission party, which now numbered four.

This company, after holding a most interesting missionary meeting at St. Louis, proceeded to Fort independence, on the frontiers of Missouri, which is a pia.ce of general rendezvous before starting for the mountains, where they met Capt. Wyeth and his party, on the 24th of April, 1834.

On the 25th, the expedition left Independence, and commenced their wearisome and perilous journey across the Rocky Mountains, and on the 20th of June they arrived at the general rendezvous of the American Fur Traders on Kane's Fork, which is a branch of the Colorado of the West.

Here they continued till the 2nd of July, to recruit their jaded animals, and then proceeded on, and on the 15th, arrived at a place on the Snake river, west of the mountains, where Wyeth and his men built a trading station, which he called Fort Hall. Here the missionaries tarried until the 30th of July ; and as Capt. Wyeth was detained longer for the purpose of finishing his fort, the mission party resolved to proceed, in company with Mr. Thomas McKay and Capt. Stewart, and on the first day of September they arrived in safety at Fort Walla Walla, on the Coiunibia river. They ascertained, on their journey down from Fort Hall, that the Flat Head tribe of Indians was not only very small, but very disadvantageously situated for the establishment and support of missionary operations among them; and this brought them to the determination to proceed down to the lower country, to find a more eligible site for the location of their mission.

Leaving their horses at Walla-Walla, they proceeded down the Columbia in one of the Hudson's Bay Company's boats, and after a tedious voyage of eleven days, against strong head winds, they arrived in safety at Vancouver on the 15th of September, and the following night slept under a roof, for the first time for one hundred and fifty-two nights. Worn out with the excessive labor and fatigue of their long journey, they could well appreciate the kind hospitality with which they were entertained by the gentlemen of the Fort ; but they gave themselves but two days to' rest, and to consult with their hosts, who 'vere well acquainted with

12 HISTORV OF

all the Indian tribes, concerning the object they had in view ; and on the 18th, J. and D. Lee were off on an exploring tour through the country, to *' make observations relative to the best location for the mission."

Examining the Wallamctte valley and other portions of the country, they returned to Vancouver on the 27th, still undecided as to the proper place to make the location.

The merits of the different portions of the country were considered, the Flat Heads, the Nez Perces, the Kayuses, and other tribes, were fiiithfully reviewed, but to the exclusion of all others, the Wallamctte valley was strongly recommended by Dr. .John McLaughlin and the rest of the gentlemen of Vancouver, as the most eligible place for the establishment of the centre of their operations.

On Sunday, the 28th, Jason Lee preached twice at Vancouver, to a congregation of English, Irish, French, half-caste, &c., which were the first sermons ever preached in the place, and doubtless the first that many of the people had ever heard.

It was finally decided, " after much prayer for direction as to the place," to locate the mission in the Wallamctte valley, and as the brig May Dacre had safely arrived in the Columbia with the goods belonging to the mission, measures were immediately taken to receive them from Capt. Lambert, and convey them to the place selected for the station. The brig lay at the mouth of the Multnomah, or lower mouth of the"^ Wallamctte, and the site for the mission was seventy-five miles up the river; but, after ''much toil and 'hard labor," Mr. Lee succeeded in getting up all the goods, and they were landed on the mission premises on the 6th day of October.

The rainy season was commencing, and as they had no house to shelter either themselves or their goods from the inclemency of the weather, they went immediately to work to prepare logs, &c., to build a house. The rain fell in torrents long before their house was erected, yet they labored constantly during the day, and at night were obliged to lie down together in a small tent, scarcely large enough to contain them, and, wrapped in their wet clothes, seek a few hours' repose to prepare them for the toils and storms of the ensuing day. Their house was 32 feet by 1 8, and on the 3d of November they moved their goods into it, though they had put on but ten feet of the roof. So soon as they got their house thus partly covered, they began to receive Indian children into their family, with the design of establishing a mission school, and also to labor for the spiritual benetit of all the Indians, and the few French people who had settled in the country. INIeetings were established at the house of Mr. Joseph Gervais, and held every Sabbath, the principal attendants being French and half-caste.

On the 14th of December, Mr. Jason Lee ^visited Vancouver, where he preached, and baptized four adults and seventeen children. In consideration of these services he received, in donations, from the gentlemen of the company, the sum of twenty dollars, for the benefit of the mission. During the winter of 1835, the missionaries were alternately employed in imijroving their house, procuring supplies, preaching the gospel, and teaching the Indian and half-caste children to read and write.

Thrown entirely upon their own resources, in the spring, to guard against future want, they commenced cultivating the ground. There was no alternative; they must do so, or starve. While they saw some fruits of their labors in other respects, this department of their work, during the summer, was greatly prospered, for in the fall, after they gathered in tlieir crops, they found themselves with a'^good supply of wheat, peas, oats, and barley, and two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes in their cellar. This, with six barrels of salmon which J. Lee purchased fresh of the Indians at the Wallamette Falls, and salted with his own hands, and took up the river to the mission, furnished them with the means of subsistence for the following year.

Soon after the missionaries 'first arrived, Mr. Cyrus §hepard was employed at Vancouver, to teach the chil-

14 HISTORY or

dren belonging to the Fort, but losing his health, he was obliged to leave his school. On the ]st of March he ascended the river in company with Mr. Lee, and from that time remained on the Wallamette station.

Late in August a circumstance happened which shows to what dangers the missionaries were exposed. A boy whose Indian name was Ken-o-teesh, belonging to the Si-le-Iah tribe, was received into the mission in April, and died on the 19th of the following August. A few days after his death, his brother came to the mission, determined to seek revenge for the death of Ken-oteesh, by taking the life of Daniel Lee and Cyrus Shepard. He remained over night, and was prevented from accomplishing his design only by the interposition of an Indian who accompanied him. Bent upon glutting his vengeance on somebody, he crossed the river, and fell upon a band of unarmed Indians, and savagely murdered several of them.

In the month of September, nearly the whole mission family were attacked with the intermittent fever, and the mission house was converted into an hospital, without an attending physician. A scene of distress now presented itself, and our missionaries not only suffered personally, but were obliged to descend to the most menial services, in waiting upon the Indian children, for whose comfort they manifested the utmost care.

Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr. P. L. Edwards left the mission premises the last of September, the former for Vancouver to obtain medical aid, and the latter to embark on board the Brig May Dacre for the United vStates. Remaining awhile at Vancouver without benefit to his health, Mr. Lee, by the advice of Dr. Mc- Laughlin, embarked on board one of the Hudson's Bay Company's ships, bound for the Sandwich Islands, and in consequence of this, Mr. Edwards relinquished the idea of leaving the country at that time, and returned to the mission, and late in October established a school for the winter, at Campment du Sable, or Champoeg.

To provide for future contingencies, the missionaries sowed that fall twenty-seven bushels of wheat.

TilE OR EG OX MISSION. 15

On the 26th of November, the Rev. Mr. Parker a Presbyterian Clergyman from the State of New York, arrived at the mission, where he was most cordially received. He had been sent out by the A. B. C. F. M. to explore the country, and ascertain the most eligible site for a mission. He remained at the station two days only, when he returned to -Vancouver. Dr. Marcus Whitman accompanied him over the Rocky Mountains, but on arriving at the Snake river, the doctor returned to the States for the purpose of inducing the Board to appoint missionaries forthwith to Oregon.

The enlargement of the mission family by receiving Indian children from time to time, rendered it necessary, at the close of this year, for the missionaries to build an addition to their house, 32 by 16 feet. This they did principally with their own hands. In reviewing the year^ the missionaries found cause for thankfulness in the success which had attended their labors, though they had been called to pass through some trying scenes, and to meet with many discouragements. They had received fifteen children into the family, of whom four had died, and one had been dismissed, leaving ten under their instruction. These were making rapid progress in manners, science, and useful labor ; and by the blessing of God the missionaries had a sufficiency of wholesome food for themselves and the children.

In February, 1836, hearing it rumored abroad that certain Americans, who had arrived in the country, were about to commence the m.anufacture of rum, and fearing, from a knowledge of the material of v/hich the Oregon community was composed, that intemperance would sweep over their field of labor, the missionaries invited the settlers to the mission house, and formed the Orefifon Temperance Society, the first organized west of the Rocky Mountains. Three only, besides the members of the mission, signed the pledge at first, but subsequently the number increased to eighteen.

4.bout the first of March a vessel arrived in the Columbia from the Sandwich Islands, bringing intelligence that the health of Daniel Lee had much improved, but for the general good of the cause he had concluded to remain till another opportunity should present itself for returning to Oregon. The natives of Oahu had made a contribution to Mr. Lee for the benefit of the Oregon mission, amounting to two hundred and fifty dollars. At the same time that this intelligence reached the mission, a letter was received by Jason Lee from Dr McLaughlin, inclosing a subscription for the benefit of the mission, to the amount of one hundred and thirty dollars, all from the gentlemen at Vancouver. As the letter shows in what light these intelligent persons viewed the mission at that time, I insert a copy. It is as follows :

''Fort Vancouver, 1st March, 1838.

The Rev. Jason Lee :

Dear Sir, — I do myself the pleasure to hand you the inclosed subscription, which the gentlemen who have signed it request you will do them the favor to accept for the use of the mission, and they pray our Heavenly Father, without whose assistance we can do nothing, that of his infinite mercy he may vouchsafe to bless and prosper your pious endeavors — and believe me to be, with esteem and regard, your sincere well wisher and humble servant,

John McLaughlin. "

The business of the mission continued as usual, without any thing especial taking place, until the 30th of April, wdien w^e find Mr. J. Lee at the death bed of G. Sergent, a native of New England, whom he found in extreme agony both of body and mind. As Mr. Lee entered, the dying man told him that as he had lived a life of wickedness, he was about to die an awful death. The missionary pointed him to the Redeemer of the world, and commended him to God in prayer. He appeared deeply affected, and responding a hearty amen, in a short time ceased to breathe.

Teaching the children, preaching to both the settlers and natives, visiting the sick, attending funerals, and

THE OilEGO.X MISSION. 17

harvesting their crops, employed the time of the missionaries during the summer ; and in the fall, to make their '' bread &\ire, " they sowed thirty-four bushels of wheat.

In the latter part of August there arrived a vessel in the Columbia river from England, by the way of the Sandwich Islands, having on board the Rev. Daniel Lee, who had recovered his health, and Rev. Mr. Beaver and lady. Mr. Beaver had been sent out as chaplain to the Hudson's Bay Company at Vancouver. He was a clergyman of the Church of England. Mr. Lee arrived at the mission at a very seasonable time to render himself useful, not only in his appropriate missionary work, but also in assisting to take care of the sick members of the mission family. At this time Mr. J. Lee was suffering under a severe attack of the intermittent fever. Partially recovering from this attack, he started for Vancouver on the 6th of September, taking with him a favorite Indian girl whom he called Lucy liedding, to obtain medical aid in her behalf.

On the 12th, he returned, bringing information of the arrival at Walla- Walla of the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and v/ife, Dr. Whitman and wife, and Mr. Grey, who had been sent out as missionaries by the A. B. C. F. M. As Mr. Lee had taken the lower country, they decided upon locating their mission in the interior, among the Kay use and Nez Perce Indians. These were the first American ladies that ever crossed the Rocky Mountains, and their arrival in the country formed an epoch in the history of Oregon.

During the month of September, nearly all the mission family were sick at once, with the intermittent fever, and another was taken to Vancouver, by Mr. Edwards, for medical aid. Mr. Edwards returned on the 30th, bringing with him Lucy Hedding, who had received no benefit from medicinfe. She died on the 5th of October.

On the 22nd, J. Lee had a third attack of the fever,

so severe as to deprive him of reason for a short time.

He continued to suffer, without medical advice, until the

21st of November, when, in a very reduced state, he

1* set out for Vancouver, where he arrived two days afterwards.

Durmg his absence, died Joseph Pournaffe, a member of the mission school, aged 17 years. This lad was very attentive to religious instruction, and left off play and work on the Sabbath, immediately on being told it was wrong. He often expressed much thankfulness that the missionaries had come to the country, to learn him to read, and tell him about God. He was a promising youth, and, if he had lived, would probably have been a blessing to the country. As it was, the missionaries had much consolation in his death, for he gave them satisfaction that their labors had not been in vain.

On the 28th of December, after an absence of five weeks, J. Lee returned from Vancouver with his health somewhat improved, though still quite feeble.

Eighteen children and adults had been admitted into the mission family dui4ng this year ; two had died and one had run away. The missionaries found on their hands, the last day of December, twenty-five persons ; but having enlarged their farming operations, by the blessing of God they found themselves in the possession of supphes amply sufficient to sustain them until another harvest.

On the 2nd day of January, 1837, the members of the mission found cause to rally their_ forces, to support the cause of temperance. A meeting of the Temperance Society was called at the mission house ; one member who had violated the pledge, was excluded, and three more were added to the Society. As the reports con- (;erning the distillation of ardent spirits were about to be verified by a couple of men, named Young and Carmichael, it was unanimously resolved by the meeting to send them a written request, signed by all the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, to desist from their unholy enterprise. The following is a copy of the correspondence which took place between the Society and Messrs. Young & Carmichael, and is inserted to show what stand the missionaries took in guarding the morals of the community, and the extent of the influence they exerted. But for these measures, intemperance would have devastated the country.

^' Messrs. Young & Carmichael :

'' Gentlemen, — Whereas we, the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, have learned with no common interest, and with feelings of deep regret, that you are now preparing a distillery for the purpose of manufacturing ardent spirits, to be sold in this vicinity; and, whereas, we are most fully convinced that the vending of spiritous liquors will more eftbctually paralyze our efforts for the promotion of temperance, than any other, or all other obstacles that can be thrown in our way; and, as we do feel a lively and intense interest in the success of the temperance cause, beheving as we do, that the prosperity and interests of this infant and rising settlement will be materially affected by it, both as it respects its temporal and spiritual welfare, and that the poor Indians, whose case is even now indescribably wretched, will be made far more so by the use of ardent spirits ; and whereas, gentlemuen, you are not ignorant that the laws of the United States prohibit American citizens from selling ardent spirits to Indians under the penalty of a heavy fine ; and as you do not pretend to justify yourselves, but urge pecuniary interest as the reason of your procedure ; and as we do not, cannot think it will be of pecuniary interest to you to prosecute this business ; and as we are not enemies, but friends, and do not wish, under existing circumstances, that you should sacrifice one penny of the money you have already expended ; we, therefore, for the above, and various other reasons which we could urge,

*' 1st. Resolved, That we do most earnestly and feelirigly request you, gentlemen, forever to abandon your enterprise.

" 2nd. Resolved, That we will and do hereby agree to pay you the sum you have expended, if you will give us the avails of your expenditures, or deduct from them the bill of expenses.

*' 3d. Resolved, That a committee of one be appointed to make known the views of this society, and preseni our request to Messrs. Young & Carmichael.

" 4th. Resolved, That the undersigned will pay the sums severally affixed to our names, to Messrs. Young & Carmichael, on or before the thirty-first day of March next, the better to enable them to give up their project."

Then followed the names of nine Americans, and fifteen Frenchmen, which then embraced a majority of the white men of the country, excluding the Hudson's Bay Company, with a subscription of sixty-three dollars, and a note appended as follows:

'' We, the undersigned, jointly promise to pay the balance, be the same more or less.

*' Jason Lee, Daniel Lee, Cyrus Shepard, N P. L. Edwards."

To the above request Messrs. Young & Carmichaei returned the following answer:

" Walla3iette, 13th Jan., 1837.

" To THE Oregon Temperance Society:

" Gentlemen, — Having taken into consideration your request to relinquish our enterprise in manufacturing ardent spirits, we therefore do agree to stop our proceeding for the present. * But, gentlemen, the reasons for first beginning such an undertaking were the innumerable ditficulties placed in our way by, and the tyranising oppression of the Hudson's Bay Company, here under the absolute authority of Dr. McLaughlin, who has treated us with more disdain than any American citizen's feelings could support. But as there have now some favorable circumstances occurred to enable us to get along without making spiritous liquors, we resolve to stop the manufacture of it for the present; but, gentlemen, it is not consistent with our feelings to receive any recompense whatever for our expenditures, but we are thankful to the Society for their offer. " We remain, yours, &c.,

" Young & Carmichael."

The missionaries from the first had proved a great blessing to the country, not only in a spiritual and moral point of view, but in furnishing employment to many individuals otherwise without the means of livelihood ; and setting an example of industry and perseverance in the temporal departments of their work, they gave a spur to all business operations, and the community seemed at once to spring from that state of inactivity into which it had been thrown by the domineering policy of the Hudson's Bay Company, into one of great enterprise and prosperity. In the early part of January a circumstance transpired which enabled the members of the mission and others, to carry out a design which they had previously formed, and in the execution of which the temporal interests of the country would be greatly promoted. This design was to send an ex})edition to California to purchase and drive to Oregon a band of neat cattle for the supply of the settlers. The circumstance referred to was the arrival in the country of Wm. A. Slocum, Esq., of the United States Navy. Up to this period there were no cattle in the country, except what belonged tt) the Hudson's Bay Company, and they would not sell, but compelled the settlers, if they had cattle at all, to take cows merely for their milk, and return them with their increase. This looked too much like oppression to Mr. Jason Lee, and he resolved, if possible, to break up the cattle monopoly, believing that he would thereby confer a lasting benefit to the country.

On the arrival of Mr. Slocum, he proposed to take to California, any number of persons that might be needed, free of expense except board ; and a meeting was immediately called at the mission house, for the purpose of forming a California Cattle Company, and making the necessary arrangements for the expedition. Each person belonging to the Company was tc share in proportion to the amount of money he invested, and the persons who went with the expedition were to be paid a stipulated sum per month in cattle. P. L. Edwards and Ewing Young, w^ere appointed to take charge of the Company, and Thursday the 19th of January was fixed upon as the day for the vessel to sail. Mr. Slocum, while in Oregon, manifested a deep interest in the welfare of the rising settlement, and especially in the prosperity of the Oregon mission. He highly approved of the method the missionaries had pursued to benefit the Indians, and said he was perfectly astonished at the improvement those had made who were under the care of the mission. In company with Mr. Jason Lee, he visited the several farms in the settlement, and on the 14th, took his leave of the Wallamette, Mr. Lee accompanying him to Vancouver. A letter signed by the missionaries, commendatory of the course Mr. Slocum had pursued in the country, had been put into his hands before leaving, and he returned them the following answer, which contained a donation of fifty dollars for the benefit of the mission. This letter was put into the hands of Mr. Lee during his last interview with Mr. Slocum.

" AMERICA^f Brig Loriot, off the Wallamette, ^ Oregon liver, 18th January, 1837. 5

*' My dear Sirs : — I have rftuch pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of your kind favor of the 16th, and I beg leave to thank you for the expressions of regard contained therein. It was indeed a source of regret that I could continue no longer at your mission on the banks of the Wallamette, for the visit was to me one of exceeding interest. On my return to the civilized parts of our country, I shall not hesitate to express my humble opinion that you have already effected a great public good, by practically showing that the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains are capable of the union of mental and physical discipline, as taught at your establishment. For I have seen with my own eyes, children, who, two years ago, were roaming their own native wilds in a state of savage barbarism, now being brought within the knowledge of moral and religious instruction, becoming useful members of society, bybeing taught the most useful of all arts, agriculture, and all this without the slightest compulsion.