Travels in Peru, on the Coast, in the Sierra, Across the Cordilleras and the Andes, into the Primeval Forests

Front matter

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I

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Preface

The Work from which the present Volume is translated consists of extracts from the Author’s Journal, accompanied by his recollections and observations. The absence of chronological arrangement will be sufficiently accounted for, when it is explained that the zoological investigations for which the journey was undertaken frequently required the Author to make repeated visits to one particular place or district, or to remain for a considerable time within the narrow circuit of a few miles ; and sometimes to travel rapidly over vast tracts of country. Disclaiming any intention of making one of those travelling romances, with which the tourist literature of the day is overstocked, the Author has confined himself to a plain description of facts and things as they came within the sphere of his own observation. But though Dr. Tschudi lays claim to no merit beyond the truthfulness of his narrative, yet the reader will no doubt readily concede to him the merit of extensive information, and happy descriptive talent. His pictures of Nature, especially those relating to the animal world, are frequently imbued with much of the charm of thought and style which characterizes the writings of Bufibn.

Lima, the oldest and most interesting of the cities founded by the Spaniards on the western coast of South America, has been frequently described ; but no previous writer has painted so anivi

PREFACE.

mated a picture of the city and its inhabitants, as that contained in the following volume. After quitting the capital of Peru, Dr. Tschudi went over ground previously untrodden by any European traveller. He visited the Western Sierra, the mighty chain of the Cordilleras, the boundless level heights, the deep mountain valleys on the eastern declivity of the Andes, and the vast primeval forests. Whilst recounting his wanderings in these distant regions, he describes not only the country and the people, but every object of novelty and interest in the animal, vegetable, and mineral creations.

Those lovers of Natural History who are familiar with the German language, and who may wish to make themselves extensively acquainted with the animal world, in those parts of Peru visited by Dr. Tschudi, will find abundant information on the subject in his work, with plates, entitled Untersuchungen fiber die Fauna Peruana.’’ The present Publication, though containing a vast deal to interest the naturalist, is addressed to the general reader, and will, it is presumed, gratify curiosity respecting the highly interesting and little known regions to which it relates. It may fairly be said that no previous writer has given so comprehensive a picture of Peru ; combining, with animated sketches of life and manners, a fund of valuable information on Natural History and Commerce.

T. R.

Chapter I

txan

Embarkation at Havre — The Voyage — Arrival at the Island of Chiloe — Landing — The Gyr-Falcon — Punta Arena — The Island of Chiloe described — Climate and Cultivation — Cattle — The Bay — San Carlos — The Governor’s House — Poverty and Wretchedness of the Inhabitants of the Tovrn — Strange method of Ploughing — Coasting Vessels — Smuggling — Zoology — Departure from Chiloe . . . 1

CHAPTER H.

Valparaiso and the adjacent country — The Bay — Aspect of the Town — Lighthouses — Forts — Custom House — Exchange — Hotels and Taverns— War with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation — ^First Expedition— Preparations for the Second Expedition — Embarkation of the Troops — Close of the Port — July Festival in honor of the French Revolution — The Muele, or Mole — Police — Serenos, or Watchmen —Movable Prisons — Clubs — Trade of Valparaiso — Santiago —

Zoology . . 15

Chapter III

Juan Fernandez — Robinson Crusoe — Passage to Callao — San Lorenzo — Rise and fall of the coast — Mr. Darwin’s opinions on this subject — Callao — The Fortress— Siege by the Spaniards — General Rodil — Siege by the Chilians — The Colocolo — Pirates — Zoology— Road to Lima . , . .25

Chapter IV

Lima — Situation and extent of the City — Streets, Houses, Churches and Convents — San Pedro — The Jesuits — Nunneries — Beatarios — Hospitals— San Andres — The Foundling House — The Pantheon —

The Palace — The Plaza Mayor — Pizarro— The Cabildo— Fountains— viii

Contents

Palace of the Inquisition— The University— National Library — Museum of Natural History and Antiquities — Academy of Design — The Mint — The Theatre — Circus for Cock-fighting — The Bridge — The City Wall— Santa Catalina — Barracks 42

Chapter V

Population of Lima — ^Its diminution — Different races of the Inhabitants— Their characteristics — Amusements — ^Education — The Women of Lima — Their Costume — the Say a y Manto — ^Female domestic life — Love of dress — Beatas — Indians — Slaves — Bosales — Free Creoles — Negroes — Negresses — Black Creoles — Their varieties — Mestizos — Mulattoes — Pelanganas — Zambos — Chinos — ^Foreigners in Lima — Corruption of the Spanish language. 63

Chapter VI

Primary Schools — Colleges — The University — Monks — Saints — Santo Toribio and Santa Rosa — Religious Processions — Raising the Host —

The Noche Buena — The Carnival — Paseos, or Public Promenades —

Ice — Riding and Driving — Horses — Their Equipments and Training — Mules — Lottery in Lima — Cookery — Breakfasts, Dinners, &c. — Coffee-houses and Restaurants — ^Markets — The Plazo Firme del Acho — Bull Fights . 89

Chapter VII

Geographical Situation of Lima — Height above Sea level — Temperature— Diseases — Statistical Tables of Births and Deaths — Earthquakes— The Valley of Lima — The River Rimac — ^Aqueducts, Trenches, &c. — Irrigation — Plantations — Cotton — Sugar — ^Various

kinds of Grain — Maize — Potatoes, and other tuberous roots — Pulse — Cabbage — Plants used for Seasoning — Clover — The Olive and other Oil Trees — ^Fruits — Figs and Grapes — The Chirimoya — The Palta — The Banana and other Fruits. ... Ill

Chapter VIII

Robbers on the coast of Peru — The Bandit Leaders Leon and Rayo — The Corps of Montoneros — Watering Places near Lima — Surco,

Atte and Lurin — Pacchacamac — Ruins of the Temple of the Sun — Difficulties of Travelling on the Coast of Perq, — Sea Passage to Huacho — Indian Canoes — Ichthyological Collections — An old Spaniard’s recollections of Alexander Von Humboldt — The Padre Requena — Huacho— Plundering of Burial Places — Huaura — Malaria — ^The Sugar Plantation at Luhmayo — Quipico — ^Ancient Peruvian Ruins —

The Salinas, or Salt Pits — Gritalobos — Chancay — The Piques—

CONTENTS.

Mode of extracting them — Valley of the Pasamayo — Extraordinary Atmospheric Mirrors — Piedras Gordas — Palo Seco .... 137

Chapter IX

The Coast southward of Lima — Chilca — Curious Cigar cases made there — Yauyos — Pisco — Journey to Yea — A night on the Sand Plains — Fatal Catastrophe in the year 1823 — Vine Plantations at Yea — Brandy and Wine — Don Domingo Elias — ^Vessels for transporting Brandy (Botijas and Odres) — Cruel mode of skinning Goats — Negro Carnival — Peculiar species of Guinea Pig — The Salamanqueja — Cotton Plantations — Quebrada of Huaitara — Sangallan — Guano — Retrospect of the Peruvian Coast — Rivers — Medanos — Winds — Change of Seasons — The Garuas — The Lomas — Mammalia — Birds — Amphibia . ... . . 160

Chapter X

Roads leading to the Sierra — Chaclacayo and Santa Ines — Barometrical observations — San Pedro Mama — The Rio Seco — Extraordinary Geological Phenomenon — Similar one described by Mr. Darwin— Surco — Diseases peculiar to the Villages of Peru — The Verugas — Indian mode of treating the disorder — The Bird-catching Spider — Horse-Shoeing — Indian Tambos — San Juan de Matucanas — The Thorn-apple and the Tonga — The Tambo de Viso — Bridges — San Mateo — Passports — Acchahuari — Malady called the Veta — Its effects on horses — Singular tact and caution of Mules — Antarangra and Mountain Passes — Curious partition of Water — Piedra Parada — Yauli — Indian Smelting Furnaces — Mineral Springs — Portuguese Mine owners — Saco — Oroya — Hanging Bridges — Huaros — Roads leading from Oroya . . . . . 179

Chapter XI

The Cordillera and the Andes — Signification of the terms — Altitude of the Mountains and Passes — Lakes — Metals — Aspect of the Cordillera— Shattered Rocks — Maladies caused by the diminished Atmospheric Pressure — The Veta and the Surumpe — Mountain Storms —

The Condor — Its habits — Indian mode of Catching the Bird — The ^

Puna or Despoblado — Climate — Currents of Warm Air — Vegetation— Tuberous Plant called the Maca — Animals of the Puna — The Llama, the Alpaco, the Huanacu and the Vicuna — The Chacu and the Bolas — Household Utensils of the Ancient Peruvians — The Viscacha and the Chinchilla — Puna Birds and Amphibia — Cattle and Pasture — Indian F arms — Shepherds’ Huts — ^Ancient Peruvian Roads and Buildings — Treasure concealed by the Indians in the Puna. . 203 1*

X

CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Cerro de Pasco — First discovery of the Mines — Careless mode of working them — Mine Owners and Mine Laborers — Amalgamating and Refining — Produce of the Mines— Life in Cerro de Pasco — Different Classes of the Population — Gaming and Drunkenness — Extravagance and Improvidence of the Indian Mine Laborers — The Cerro de San Fernando — Other Important Mining Districts in Peru — The Salcedo Mine Castrovireyna — ^Vast Productiveness of the Silver Mines of Peru — ^Rich Mines secretly known to the Indians — Roads leading from Cerro de Pasco— The Laguna of Chinchaycocha — Battle of Junin — Indian Robbers — A Day and a Night in the Puna W ilds 229

Chapter XIII

The Sierra — Its Climate and Productions — Inhabitants — Trade — ^Eggs circulated as money — Mestizos in the Sierra — Their Idleness and Love of Gaming and Betting — Agriculture — The Quinua Plant, a substitute for Potatoes — Growth of Vegetables and Fruits in the Sierra — Rural Festivals at the Seasons of Sowing and Reaping — Skill of the Indians in various Handicrafts — Excess of Brandy-Drinking — Chicha — Disgusting mode of making it — ^Festivals of Saints — Dances and Bull-Fighls — Celebration of Christmas-Day, New-Year’s Day, Palm Sunday, and Good Friday — Contributions levied on the Indians — Tardy and Irregular Transmission of Letters — Trade in Mules — General Style of Building in the Towms and Villages of the Sierra — Ceja de la Montana. . . 253

Chapter XIV

Road to the Primeval F orests — Barbacoas, or Indian Suspension Bridges — Vegetation — Hollow Passes — Zoology — the Montana Plantations — Inhabitants — Trade in Peruvian Bark — Wandering Indians — ^Wild Indians or Indies Bravos — Languages, Manners, and Customs of the Indies Bravos — Dress — Warlike Weapons and Hunting Arms — Dwellings — Religion — Physical formation of the Wild Indian Tribes — Animals of the Aboriginal Forests — Mammalia — Hunting the Ounce — Birds — ^Amphibia — Poisonous Serpents — Huaco — Insects — Plants . 271

Chapter XV

Montana of San Carlos de Vitoc — ^Villages — ^Hacienda of Maraynioc — the Coca Plant — ^Mode of Cultivating and Gathering it — Mastication of Coca — Evil Consequences of its excessive Use — Its Nutritious Qualities — Indian Superstitions connected with the Coca Plant —

CONTENTS.

xi

Suggestions for its Introduction in the European Navies — Fabulous animal called the Carbunculo — The Chunchos — Missions to Cerro de la Sal — Juan Santos Atahuallpa — The Franciscan Monks — Depopulation of Vitoc . 309

CHAPTER XVI. Oppressions exercised by the Spaniards upon the Peruvian Indians

The Repartimiento and the Mita — Indian Insurrections — ^Tupac Amaru — His Capture and Execution — War of Independence — Character of the Peruvian Indians — Music — Dress — Superstitions — Longevity— Diminished Population of Peru — Languages spoken by the Aboriginal Inhabitants — Specimen of Quichua Poetry-- The Yaravies — The Quipu — Water Conduits — Ancient Buildings — Fortresses — Idols — Domestic Utensils — Ancient Peruvian Graves — Mode of Burying the Dead — Mummies 329 t

TRAVELS IN PERU.

Chapter I

Erabarkation at Havre — The Voyage — Arrival at the Island of Chiloe- Landing — The Gyr-Falcon — Punta Arena — The Island of Chiloe described— Climate and Cultivation— Cattle — The Bay — San Carlos — The ^ Governor’s House — Poverty and Wretchedness of the Inhabitants of the Town— Strange method of Ploughing— Coasting Vessels — Smuggling — Zoology — Departure from Chiloe.

On the 27th of February, 1838, 1 sailed from Havre-de-Grace on board the Edmond.” This vessel, though a French merchantman, was freighted with a cargo of Swiss manufactured goods, suited to any commercial transactions which might be entered into in the course of a circumnavigatory voyage. It was a boisterous morning. A fall of snow and heavy clouds soon intercepted our view of the coast of France, and not one cheering sunbeam shone out to betoken for us a favorable voyage. We passed down the British Channel, where the multitude of vessels, and the flags of all nations, presented an enlivening picture, and we finally cleared it on the 5th of March. Favored by a brisk Qorth wind, we soon reached Madeira and came in sight of Tenerifle, the peak being just perceptible on the skirt of the horizon. Easterly breezes soon brought us to the island of Fogo, which, having passed on the 35th day of our voyage, we received the usual marine baptism, and participated in all the ceremonies ob- 2

TRAVELS IN PERU.

served on crossing the equator. We soon reached the tropic ol Capricorn, and endeavored to gain the channel between the Falkland Islands and Patagonia; but unfavorable winds obliged us to direct our course eastwards, from the Island of Soledad to the Staten Islands. On the 3d of March we made the longitude of Cape Horn, but were not able to double it until we got into the 60th degree of south latitude. In those dangerous waters, where it is admitted by the boldest English sailors that the waves rage more furiously than in any other part of the world, we encountered great risk and difficulty. For twenty-two days we were driven about on the fearfully agitated sea, southward of Tierra del Fuego, and were only saved from being buried in the deep, by the excellent build and soundness of our ship.

We suffered much, and were long delayed by this storm ; but when it subsided, a smart breeze sprang up from the southward, and we held our course along the Pacific to the coast of Chile. After a voyage of 99 days we cast anchor on Sunday the 5th of June, in the Bay of San Carlos. Like the day of our departureii^^ from Europe, that of our arrival off Chiloe was gloomy and overcast. Heavy clouds obscured the long-looked-for island, and its picturesque shore could only be seen, when, at intervals, the wind dispersed the dark atmospheric veil. We had no sooner cast anchor than several boats came alongside rowed by Indians, who offered us potatoes, cabbage, fish, and water, in exchange for tobacco. Only those who have been long at sea can form an idea of the gratification which fresh provisions, especially vegetables, afford to the weary voyager. In a couple of hours, the harbor-master came on board to examine the ship, the cargo, &c., and to give us permission to go ashore. The long-boat being got out, and well maimed, we stepped into it, and were conveyed to tht harbor. The Bay of San Carlos being shallow, large ships, or vessels, heavily laden, are obliged to go three English miles or more from the landing-place before they can anchor. Our boat was gaily decorated and newly painted ; but this was mere outside show, for it was in a very unsound condition. During our passage through the tropics, the sun had melted the pitch between the planks of the boat, which lay on the deck keel uppermost.

BAY OF SAN CARLOS.

In this crazy boat, we had scarcely got a quarter of a league from the ship, when the water rushed in so forcibly through all the cracks and fissures, that it was soon more than ankle deep. Unluckily the sailors had forgotten to put on board a bucket or anything for baling out the water, so that we were obliged to use our hats and boots for that purpose. Fourteen persons were crowded together in this leaky boat, and the water continued rising, until at length we began to be seriously apprehensive for our safety, when, fortunately, our situation was observed by the people on shore. They promptly prepared to send out a boat to our assistance, but just as it was got afloat, we succeeded in reaching the pier, happy once more to set our feet on terra Jirma.

Our first business was to seek shelter and refreshment. There is no tavern in San Carlos, but there is a sort of substitute for one, kept by an old Corsican, named Filippi, where captains of ships usually take up their quarters. Filippi, who recognized a^ old acquaintance in one of our party, received us very kindly, and showed us to apartments which certainly had no claim to # the merits of either cleanliness or convenience. They were long, dark, quadrangular rooms, without windows, and were destitute of any article of furniture, except a bed in a kind of recess.

As soon as I got on shore, I saw a multitude of small birds of prey. They keep in flocks, like our sparrows, hopping about everywhere, and perching on the hedges and house-tops. I anxiously wished for an opportunity to make myself better acquainted with one of them. Presuming that shooting in the town might be displeasing to the inhabitants, who would naturally claim to themselves a sort of exclusive sporting right, I took my gun down to the sea-shore, and there shot one of the birds. It belonged to the Gyr-Falcon family {Polylorinice), and was one of the species peculiar to South America (Polyhorus chimango, Vieil). The whole of the upper part of the body is brown, but single feathers here and there have a whitish-brown edge. On the tail are several indistinct oblique stripes. The under-part of the body is whitish-brown, and is also marked with transverse stripes feebly defined. The bird I shot measured from the point of the beak to the end of the tail 1 foot inches.

TRAVELS IN PERU.

Though these Gyr-Falcons live socially together, yet they are very greedy and contentious about their prey. They snap up, as food, all the offal thrown out of doors ; and thus they render themselves serviceable to the inhabitants, who consequently do not destroy them. In some of the valleys of Peru, I met with these birds again, but very rarely and always single and solitary. I continued my excursions on the sea-shore, but with little satisfaction, for the pouring rain had driven animals of every kind to their lurking-holes. After a few days, I went on board the ‘‘ Edmond,’’ for the purpose of visiting Punta Arena, a town on the side of the bay, whither our boat used to be sent for fresh water. The ground surrounding the spring whence the ships obtain supplies of water, is sandy, and it becomes exceedingly marshy further inland. After wandering about for a few hours, I found myself quite lost in a morass, out of which I had to work my way with no little difficulty. The whole produce of my hard day’s sport consisted of an awlbeak, a small dark-brown bird {Opethiorhyncus patagonicus), and some land-snails. On our return, as we were nearing the ship, we killed a seal [Otaria chileiisis, Mull.), which was rising after a dive, close to the boat. .

On the 22d of June, all our ship’s company were on board by order of the captain. We weighed anchor, and cruized about for some time. At length, about five in the afternoon, we returned, and the ship was anchored again precisely on the spot she had left a few hours before. It was set down in the log-book that the wind was not sufficiently favorable to allow the ship to pass out safely through the narrow entrance to the bay. But all on board were well aware that this was merely a pretence on the part of the captain, who, for some reason or other, wished to stop longer at San Carlos.

I was very much pleased at this opportunity of prolonging my stay at the Island of Chiloe, hoping that better weather would enable me to make an excursion into the interior. But the sky still continued overcast, and the rain poured incessantly. One day, however, I undertook a journey to Castro, in company with the French Charge d’ Affaires to Peru, one of my fellow passengers on the voyage. A merchant accommodated

THE ISLAND OF CHILOE.

us with two horses, saddled in the Chilian manner ; but he warned us to be on our guard, as horses were often restive when just returned from their summer pasturage. We set off very promisingly. The commencement of our ride was pleasant enough, though the road was steep and very difficult. It sometimes lay over smooth slippery stones, then through deep marshes, or over scattered logs of wood, which bore evidence of attempts to render the ground passable, by this rude kind of paving. After we had ridden for several hours in the forest, the rain checked our further progress, and we turned, to retrace our way back. Our horses seemed well pleased with the project of returning home. For a time they proceeded with wonderful steadiness ; but on coming to a part of the road where the ground was comparatively level and firm, they quickened their pace, and at length dashed forward through the wood, uncontrolled by the bridle. The long narrow saddle, with its woollen covering, the crescent-shaped wooden stirrups, and the heavy spurs, with their clumsy rowels, baffled all our skill in horsemanship, and it was with no little difficulty we kept our seats. We thought it best to give the animals the rein, and they galloped through the umbrageous thickets, until at last, panting and breathless, they stuck in a morass. Here we recovered our control over them, and pursued the remainder of our journey without further accident, though we were drenched to the skin on our return to the town.

On subsequent days, I took my rambles on foot, and found myself richly rewarded thereby. The long evenings we spent in the company of our host and the harbor-master, from both of whom I obtained some useful information respecting the island.

Chiloe is one of the largest islands of the Archipelago which extends along the west coast of South America, from 42° south lat. to the Straits of Magellan. It is about 23 German miles long, and 10 broad. A magnificent, but almost inaccessible forest covers the unbroken line of hills stretching along Chiloe, and gives to the island a charming aspect of undulating luxuriance. Seldom, however, can the eye command a distinct view of those verdant hills ; for overhanging clouds surcharged with rain, almost constantly veil the spreading tops of the trees. At

TRAVELS IN PERU.

most parts of the shore the declivity is rapid. There are many inlets, which, though small, afford secure anchorage ; but there are no harbors of any magnitude. While Castro was the capital of the island, Chacao was the principal port ; but San Carlos having become the residence of the governor, this latter place is considered the chief harbor ; and with reason, for its secure, tranquil bay unites all the advantages the navigator can desire on the stormy coast of South Chile. At Chacao, on the contrary, reefs and strong currents render the entrance dangerous and the anchorage insecure.

Chiloe is but little cultivated, and scantily populated. If the statement of my informant, the harbor-master, be correct, Chiloe and the adjacent small islands contain only from 48,000 to 50,000 inhabitants, part of whom live in ranchos (huts), and part in a few villages. Next to San Carlos, and the half-deserted Castro, to which the title of “ City” is given, the chief places are Chacao, Vilipilli, Cucao, Velinoe. It is only in the neighborhood of these towns or villages that the forest trees have been felled, and their removal has uncovered a fertile soil, which would reward by a hundred-fold the labor of the husbandman.

The climate of the island is moist and cool, and upon the whole very unpleasant. During the wnnter months, the sun is seldom seen ; and it is a proverbial saying in Chiloe, that it rains six days of the week, and is cloudy on the seventh. In summer there are occasionally fine days, though seldom two in succession. The thick forests are therefore never dry, and beneath the trees, the vegetation of the marshy soil is peculiarly luxuriant. The constant moisture is one of the greatest obstacles to agriculture. To clear the ground for cultivation, it would be necessary to burn the forests, and as the trees are always damp, that could not be done without great difficulty. To some kinds of culture the soil is not favorable. The cereals, for example, seldom thrive in Chiloe ; the seed rots after the ear is formed. Maize grows best ; though it shoots too much into leaf, and bears only small grain. The damp soil, on the other hand, is favorable to potatoes, of which vast quantities are planted. There is a degenerate kind of potato, very abundant in Chiloe. On bisection it exhibits a greater or lesser number of concentric rings,

CLIMATE AND CULTIVATION.

alternately white and violet ; sometimes all of the latter color. It is well known that southern Chile is the native land of the potato. In Chiloe and also in the neighboring islands, potatoes grow wild ; but, both in size and flavor, they are far inferior to the cultivated kind. Like the maize, they shoot up in large leaves and stalks. The climate is also very favorable to the different kinds of the cabbage plant ; but peas and beans do not thrive there.

In the forests there are often clear spots on which the grass grows to a great height, and supplies excellent pasturage for numerous herds of cattle. The inhabitants of Chiloe breed for their own use, horses, oxen, sheep, and swine. The horses are small, and not handsomely formed, but very spirited and strong. Some are scarcely twelve hands high. The cows are small and lank, and the same may be said of the swine and sheep. It is remarkable that all the rams have more than two horns ; the greater number have three, and many are furnished with four or five. I afterwards observed the same in Peru. The domestic animals on this island, notwithstanding the abundance of food, are small, and sickly-looking. I believe the cause to be want of care, for they remain all the year round exposed to every sort of weather and discomfort.

The population of Chiloe consists of Whites, Indians, and people of mixed blood. The Indians are now few in number, and those few are chiefly in the southern part of the island, and the adjacent islets. They are of the Araucana race, and appear to be a sept between that race and the people of Tierra del Fuego, on the one side, and the Pampas Indians on the other. People of mixed races form by far the greater portion of the population. They are met with in every variety of amalgamation. Taken in general, they are the reverse of handsome. They are short and thick-set, and have long, straight coarse hair. Their faces arc round and full, their eyes small, and the expression of their countenances is unintelligent. The whites are either Chilenos or Spaniards : the latter are almost the only Europeans who have become settlers here.

The principal town, San Carlos, called by the natives “ Ancud,” lies on the northern coast of a very fine bay. Without a good chart, the entrano ' tO this is difli<;’*’t. Numerous

TRAVELS IN PERU.

small islands form a labyrinth, out of which vessels, if not commanded by very experienced pilots, cannot easily be extricated. Besides, near the land, the sky is usually obscured by clouds which prevent any observation for the latitude, as the sun’s altitude cannot be taken even at noon ; and when the sun gets lower, the hills, which would serve as guiding points, cease to be distinctly seen.

Several whalers, which for some days vainly endeavored to work through this passage, were afterwards obliged to direct their course northward, and to cast anchor in Valivia. One of the largest islands at the entrance of the bay is San Sebastian, where there are numerous herds of cattle. Cochino is a small island, distant only a few miles from San Carlos. It is hilly, and thickly crowned with brush- wood. It has only one landing-place, and that is rather insecure for boats. The water of the bay is remarkably clear and good ; only round the little island of Cochino, and along the harbor, it is covered w’ith an immense quantity of sea-moss, which often renders the landing difficult. It frequently happens that commanders of ships, washing to go on board to make sail during the night, get out of the right course, and instead of going to the ship, steer to Cochino and get into the moss, where their boats stick fast, till returning daylight enables them to work their way out. ^