A Tennessean abroad; or, Letters from Europe, Africa, and Asia

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Contents

Letter I.— Introduction— Prospects of visiting Europe— Reasons for going— Preparation for the Voyage — Parting with Friends — The Waterloo — Passengers — The Steam Tug — New-York Bay — Fight among the Sailors — The midnight cry of Murder — Man overboard — Sermon at Sea — Storm near the Banks — Icebergs, etc 11

Letter II.— Journalizing — Better Prospects ahead — Speaking a ship — Interesting Jury Trial at Sea — Amusements — Irish News — Uproar on board — Sea Fowls — White Rat — Cabin Passenger lashed to the shrouds by the Sailors — Sunset at Sea — Cape Clear by moonlight— Bursting of Champagne Corks — Incidents in the Irish Channel 18

Letter III. — Arrival at Liverpool — Appearance of the City from the River Mersey — The Docks — Public Buildings — Monuments — Railroad Stations — Markets — Hotels — Draught Horses — Visit to Birkenhead — Marriage in Church, etc 23

Letter One

Ship "Waterloo, Capt. Harvey, ) Banks of Newfoundland. ) Introduction— Prospects of visiting Europe— Reasons for going— Preparation for the Voyage—Parting with Friends— The Waterloo— Passengers— The Steam-tug— New-York Bay — Fight among the Sailors — The midnight cry of Murder — Man overboard — Sermon at Sea — Storm near the Banks — Icebergs, etc.

" I'm on the sea ; I'm on the sea, I am where I have longed to be, With the blue above and the blue below, And joy wherever I go."

For some years past I have cherished the hope that it would be in my power to realize the fondest dreams of a life passed in literary pursuits and professional duties, and make a tour in foreign lands, whose history, language, people, institutions and customs, I have heard and read so much about, but which no one has written of or represented so as to enable me to appreciate what I now anticipate. Some persons are content if they have a well-written history or book of travels, over which they can go into ecstasies without the trouble of locomotion, and at the same time enjoy the cosy fireside, and perfume of the well-filled meerschaum ; but with me it only creates a desire to see with my own eyes, and learn for myself, things I have failed to realize in books. Through some freak of fortune, or misfortune, as time may determine, I found my inclination to leave home become so strong, I was willing to yield to the solicitations of those who desired my company, leave my business, part with my family and friends, and all who are near and dear to me, and be a rover for eighteen months or more in foreign climes. As the day fixed for our departure drew near, my anxiety became intense. I was ready even before the time to bid adieu to my native land, with a heart full of anticipated pleasure.

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On Saturday, at noon, I found myself on board the splendid ship Waterloo, belonging to the Star Line, bound for Liverpool, and commanded by Captain Harvey. Here I found assembled those who were to constitute my fellow-passengers across old ocean's wave, numbering some thirty-five persons, great aud small, for the cabin, and forty-five for the steerage. Here, also, I found assembled a few chosen friends whom I had known in college-life, and who had come to the dock to take leave, and express their good wishes for my safe return and happiness. After a short time allowed by our accommodating captain for leave-taking, we were dragged by the tug Achilles out into the middle of East River, amid the shouts and waving of those on shore. We stood in the stream for about half an hour, waiting for two of our party, who had gone out to purchase books for perusal during the voyage, thinking they had ample time. They soon returned, and found, much to their surprise, that we had left the dock. Their only chance was to get some one to row them out in a yawl, which they soon found without difficulty. As they were pulling out to us, we laughed at them most heartily, which dispelled for a time the gloom which seemed to pervade all on deck. All being aboard, the tug comes up and hitches on, and off we move for our destination. While wending our way slowly out to Sandy Hook, we had a fine opportunity of indulging our romantic ideas and enjoying the beautiful scenery on New- York Bay, which is said by some to surpass any in the world, not excepting even the Bay of Naples, rendered immortal by the pen of the gifted Byron. The great city of New-York, the emporium of the new world, with her lofty spires and immense structures, surrounded by a forest of masts, indicating her commercial importance ; Brooklyn, her sister city just opposite, with her beautiful residences and public edifices ; together with Hoboken, Jersey City, Governor's Island, and other places, all possessing their attractions, combine to render the panorama exceedingly beautiful. About dusk the steamer left us outside the Hook, and returned to the city, leaving us to make our way across old ocean's wave as fast as the wind might carry us. In a few moments the hoarse voice of the mate was heard crying " All hands ahoy !" but instead of the command being obeyed, it was followed by the cry of " Fight — fight — fight !" when all on deck simultaneously made their way to the forecastle, from whence the cry proceeded. As I expected, the crew were all pretty much fuddled, and as usual on starting out they deemed it necessary to take a round or so, in order to prove each other's pugilistic attainments. The officers immediately interfered, and finding that John Barleycorn was the causa belli, ordered him to be placed under lock and key, which being done, order was restored, and Jack went kindly to the mast-head singing the jolly seaman's song.

All sails being set, and night having begun, I took one last lingering look at the highlands of New-Jersey, and repaired to my stateroom, where I found my trunks snugly stored away, and all the little conveniences requisite for a sea voyage. The cabin I found to be larger than usual and much better furnished, while the appointments of this noble vessel of over one thousand tons were admirable, and the attendance without a fault. In crossing the Atlantic, I would advise all travellers who prefer real comfort and quietude, and have the time, by all means to take a packet-ship in preference to a steamer. In the American line will be found every luxury and convenience one can desire. The commanders generally are the very best of seamen, and conduct themselves at table, and wherever duty calls them, as gentlemen and men of intelligence ; the crews excellent, being selected from the first class seamen, who always know their duty, and are faithful in its execution. Aside from these considerations, I would prefer going eastward in a packet ship on the score of safety and dryness of the deck : you are more liable to accident in a steamer from various causes ; while their decks are always damp, being forced through the waves against a head wind, throwing the spray from stem to stern, making it exceedingly unpleasant ; as it is always desirable to be as much on deck as possible, there being only two remedies for sea-sickness, according to the advice of our captain, viz., breathing the pure air, and the free use of brandy.

The latter remedy I have found very acceptable to some, judging from their repeating propensities. Not being affected by sea-sickness, I of course could feel but little sympathy for my friends who seemed to be suffering agonies, yet I could fully appreciate their unpleasant situation, and did all in my power to alleviate their sufferings and cheer up their drooping spirits. I was somewhat surprised they should have been affected so early in the action, particularly as we had little or no wind and consequently a calm sea. It is really distressing to witness the prostration of all your fellow-passengers for the first four or five days, after which they become habituated to the motion of the vessel, and are ready to laugh at the many little sayings and doings while sick. To give you some idea of the feeling of a sea-sick person, I will merely relate one or two incidents that occurred among our party during their agonizing moments. Nearly all said they wished they were on terra firma, and one of the married members of the party remarked to me with great earnestness, that he was a pretty old fool for leaving his wife and children, to cross the ocean, knowing he would be deathly sick ; and if the Lord spared him, he was certain he never would leave home again. Another gentleman of the party came out one morning on deck to breathe the fresh air after being immured for several days in his berth, and in his peculiar way said he would just like to shout one long God d — n for relief sake. He had hardly uttered the words when his eyes rested on two Reverend gentlemen, one of whom told him he had as well take that back ; whereupon onr friend commenced making all sorts of apologies, saying really he did not know he was near, or he would have been more guarded ; but in truth he really felt just that way.

On the third day after our departure we found it disagreeably cold, and as the stoves were left in New- York for a summer voyage, we were compelled either to take exercise on deck, or keep ourselves warm by rolling up into our bunk, which I found anything but agreeable. Fortunately for our comfort, we reached the Gulf stream on the fourth day, where a very pleasant temperature greeted our trembling limbs, being some eight or ten degrees warmer than" any other part of the ocean. There is something very curious about this stream, of which so much has been said and written. Many theories have been advanced, and with some degree of plausibility, relative to the causes of this remarkable phenomenon of nature. Some say it is occasioned by an under-current flowing from the Pacific (which is considerably higher than the Gulf of Mexico) through the Isthmus of Darien ; while others have contended it is produced by the trade winds from the coast of Africa, meeting the waters of the mighty Mississippi, and forcing it northward by way of the Island of Cuba along our coasts to the banks of Newfoundland, where its force is broken, and its waters disseminated and lost in immensity. The stream is forty or fifty miles wide, running at the rate of four miles per hour, with a temperature ten degrees warmer than other parts of the ocean.

We were driven by adverse winds considerably out of our way, having gone to the southward about six points, which will make our voyage longer than was anticipated. Nothing occurred from the time we set out until the sixth day, except the spouting of whales, floating of sea-weed, and pieces of some wreck, which the captain said might have been floating for six months, but which appeared to me to be of recent happening.

On the afternoon of the sixth day, while we were all on deck, passing our time variously as suited our inclinations, some playing at backgammon, some reading, others conversing, we were alarmed by a sudden squall which came upon us while we were under full sail, without a moment's warning. Before the captain could give orders for reefing the sails, our mainsail was rent in twain, the fly ing-jib and jib-boom carried off, and the ship thrown on her beamends, much to the alarm and consternation of the passengers. I was not at all disconcerted, because I had seen vessels in much greater straits, and knew there was no real danger, but was considerably amused at some of the nassengers, who were probably never at sea before. One of the clergy said he trusted in the saving power of the Almighty; another gentleman said he was prepared for the event,

so let her rip and be d d ; while a certain old gentleman bid

good-bye to his wife and daughter — the ladies almost gave up the ghost — and the servants rolled into their bunks, and covered up their heads negro-like, until the wind subsided.

On the night of the seventh day, being Saturday, we -assembled around the table in the gentlemen's cabin to drink the usual toast of M wives and sweethearts," which all seemed to enter into with a hearty zest. At a late hour we retired, expecting to pass the night in undisturbed repose. We were not exactly right in this matter. While we were all sleeping away the still watches of the night, with nought to disturb us save the occasional tread of the officer on deck, we were aroused by the awful cry of " Murder — murder — murder !" accompanied by a terrible scuffling on deck, as if some one was being stabbed. The cry of murder is at all times alarming, but when one is awakened from a sweet sleep by such a cry, it becomes still

16 A TENNE8SEAN ABROAD; OR,

more terrible. Thinking it might be a mutiny, (although mutinies are out of vogue now,) I hurried on deck, and found, much to my relief, it was nothing more than the cry of a steerage passenger, who was laboring under a fit of mania a potu. He had crawled without observation during the night under one of the benches ; the noise I mistook for wrestling, was his endeavor to disengage himself from the legs of the bench — imagining them to be sailors attempting to cast him overboard. The officers, with their usual dispatch, had him immediately conducted to his quarters, and all was quiet again.

The next morning the passengers all assembled in the cabin, to hear service by the Right Rev. Bishop Otey, of Tennessee, assisted by Parson McDougal of England. The morning service being over, the sermon having begun, we were alarmed by the cry of " Man overboard IV All rose instantly from their seats, and hurried on deck, to learn the truth of the matter. Sure enough, a man was overboard ; and who should it be, but the mania a potu man, who alarmed us so much during the previous night. Fortunately for him, the vessel was standing almost still, there being little or no wind. When he rose, he swam like a duck, and caught the rope thrown out by the sailors, by which they drew him up into the ship. All the steerage passengers assembled around the poor fellow, who looked perfectly frantic, and began questioning him as to the whys and wherefores. He said he knew the captain wished him to jump overboard, for the sailors had been after him for several days. He then commenced relating several fish-stories, all of which evinced that he was not sane, yet sufficiently rational to jump into the sea when the ship was standing still with empty sails. In a few moments the excitement subsided, and the Bishop proceeded with his sermon ; which was listened to with great attention and interest. After the conclusion of the sermon, I accepted the invitation of the physician belonging to the ship, and accompanied him to the steerage, wishing to see every thing, and let nothing escape. Here I found men, women and children, from almost every nation and clime, all having different tales to tell ; some were going back to their native land after a wife, children, sister, or brother, while others were dissatisfied with America, and were returning to old England, where all those who are dissatisfied with our institutions usually come from. All seemed to be getting along remarkably well ; I heard no complaint, except from one old woman, who told the doctor she hoped he would give the crazy man a potion to make him sleep ; he annoyed her very much during the night by pulling her nose — all of which he solemly denied.

For the last few days the winds have been adverse, and we have made little or no progress, being out of our course, towards the banks of Newfoundland, which we wished to avoid on account of the ice, etc. The eighth day was decidedly the most eventful we have had since our departure. At noon the skies began to lower, and the winds to rage, indicating a severe storm. Then appeared about a thousand porpoises and one or two whales, indicating, as the sailors say, a high wind. About three o'clock it seemed as if the spirits of the mighty sea were awakened from their dreams —

" He that has sailed upon the dark blue sea Has viewed at times, I ween, a full fair sight."

The wind blew a perfect hurricane, and the short high sea was perfectly furious, lashing about in all directions with the madness of a maelstrom, and with a violence that apparently nothing could resist. Heavy squalls and thick weather added to the fearful tempest that was raging. The officers and crew of our noble vessel, which rode the waves like a thing of life, were all on the alert to a man, wrapped in their oil-skin dresses and water-proof overcoats, ready to meet the worst. All sails were immediately reefed, we stood full three hours with our head to the wind, buffeting the waves which rolled mountain high, as something superior to human work ; our ship stood it well, and came out with flying colors. It was truly a magnificent scene ; one that I would not have missed for any consideration. Could we have divested ourselves of its reality, it might be likened to a fancy picture in which some strange and curious dance was being represented between the sea and the ship. But our danger was too great for such thoughts. The fact of our being near the banks of Newfoundland, and the region of floating icebergs, was too strongly impressed upon our minds, to allow any visionary thoughts to possess us at the time. The captain, after the winds had subsided, and the waves had assuaged, remarked it was the severest storm he had witnessed for three years past. I feared I would not have the opportunity of seeing a storm at sea, but my wishes were realized, and

I can truly say I never beheld a scene so fearful, and at the same time so sublime.

Next morning we found ourselves on the banks of Newfoundland, and in the region of floating icebergs, which we have been trying to avoid for three days past. During the day we saw three icebergs, the nearest being about three miles off. It is truly a grand sight to see these immense fields of ice drifting on the bosom of the mighty deep, while the rays of the burning sun reflect a dazzling light on the waters round about. From these crystal plains rise, sometimes lated, sometimes in groups, elevations of thirty feet or more in height. In the spring, these fields begin to drift along in solemn procession to the southward, in which direction they hold their steady course, whether in calm or in spite of adverse winds. In my next you shall have a description of our voyage to our journey's end.

LETTER TWO. Irish Channel, below Liverpool

Journalizing — Better Prospects ahead — Speaking a ship — Interesting Jury Trial at Sea — Amusements — Irish News— Uproar on board — Sea Fowls — White Rat — Cabin Passenger lashed to the shrouds by the Sailors — Sunset at Sea — Cape Clear by moonlight — Bursting of Champagne Corks — Incidents in the Irish Channel.

There is no established mode of journalizing at sea, as every person has his own peculiar way of seeing and noting incidents en route. In looking over my little journal, I find many things worthy of comment, but must omit them in this sheet, in order that I may give prominence to the more interesting features of the voyage, and relieve you from the tedium of perusal.

In my last, written some fifteen days since, from the Banks of Newfoundland, I mentioned our ill luck in meeting unfavorable winds, which seemed to impede our progress in spite of our anxiety to proceed and our experience in nautical matters ; but fortunately, while we were feeling something as Jonah did when the whale swallowed him, (rather down in the mouth,) a spanking breeze sprung up and carried us at a fine rate for several days. But this good luck was not of long duration ; we had scarcely got through congratulating the captain, when adverse winds began to blow, and continued for several days, driving us a great way out of our course, towards the north of Ireland.

The day after we left the Banks we spoke the Belona, a ship bound for New- York from Liverpool. No day has elapsed since our departure without being in sight of a sail ; this was the first vessel that came near enough to pass the usual compliments — such as the hoisting of flags and interchange of longitude. This ship came near enough to hear the shouts of the emigrants which crowded her decks. As an American citizen, my heart exulted with pride and admiration as I heard the shouts that filled the air when we hoisted from the spanker jib the stars and stripes of our free and happy country, to whose shores they were going like the Israelites of old to the promised land.

During a long voyage passengers are compelled to resort to all sorts of ways to kill time and make the monotony tolerable. Amusements of every description are brought into repute, and each one's ingenuity is taxed to diversify and render them interesting. After we had exhausted our patience in playing the various games, such as whist, chess, backgammon, shuffleboard, etc., etc., we resorted to trials by jury and publication of newspapers, both of which furnished an infinite deal of amusement. Cases of assault and battery, libel, and breach of promise were tried regularly. One of our legal friends officiated as judge, Mr. L. as clerk, an Englishman as sheriff, and your humble servant, together with a gentleman from Philadelphia, were the counsellors. The cases were all decided by the court against the defendants ; and the verdicts were champagne for the crowd at Cape Clear. Our judge was exceedingly punctilious about maintaining the dignity of the court, and having the causes conducted in order. He fined several gentlemen two or three bottles of champagne for contempt of court. Among the sufferers was your old friend, who was fined two bottles for taking a seat beside his honor on the bench.

Nothing has created so much amusement during our passage as the newspapers, which are read out every day at table. We are indebted to one of our party who is known at home as the knight of the gray goose quill, for the publication of the first paper, called the

20 A TENNESSEAN ABKOAD ; OK5

Waterloo Budget, which created great merriment. Some of the gentlemen, thinking rivalry the road to success, started another paper called the Stormy -Petrel, which also created considerable merriment, and caused a deal of laughter and comment. These papers were kept up until good taste suggested their discontinuance. To give you an inkling of the contents of these papers, I will make a few extracts, selecting those that were received with most applause :

EXTRACTS

From the Waterloo Budget and the Stormy Petrel, published on board the Waterloo,

at Sea.

Waterloo Budget. — Alarming Incident — As the Waterloo was on her late passage from New- York to Liverpool, the officer on watch and all in the vicinity were greatly startled and alarmed towards what Burns termed the " sma' hours," by a grating or jarring sound which appeared as if it proceeded from the ship's bottom. Some thought it might be caused by that natural phenomenon, a sub-marine earthquake. Others thought the ship's keel had dragged over some rocks. But " great effects proceed from little causes ;" it finally turned out to be no mOre nor less than the voices of sundry gentlemen, in full chorus over that classical ditty " Uncle Ned." The participants at last accounts were doing as well as could be expected.

Lusas NaturcB. — Cases are given by travellers of districts of country in Arkansas and Texas, where the ague is so violent as to cause chickens to shake all their feathers off. We have recently had brought under our notice something quite as strange, viz., a rat which on a voyage to Europe became perfectly white, the result, doubtless, of paleness and disgust caused by sea-sickness. The poor fellow was on his way to the World's Fail*.

Squalls. — The next debate by that enlightened body, the Zatitudinarians, will be on the question, " What are the causes of squalls, as well when the mercury is up in the barometer, as when it is down ?" Bachelors are expected to participate in the discussion.

Ladies' Fashions. — Joseys and sacks for promenading, with a very pretty style of cottage bonnets, something on the coal scuttle order. Hair, a la Grecque, when a reef occasionally gets shaken out of it.

Prices Current — Whiskey Punch — The stiffest article, quick sale and the demand steady. Porter — Pretty good demand for the best. Lemonade — Flat. Whiskers and Moustaches — Black in good demand, much sought after and but little in market ; red and foxy, a perfect drug, the market being largely overstocked ; gray scarce, and no call for them.

Would be exchanged. — A pair of " sea-legs" for anything that could toddle about on the solid earth — shape or length immaterial, as the advertiser is desperate.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

First Week. Second Week. Third Week.

( Calm, "Wind. < Calmer, ( Calmest.

( Contrary, Wind. < Contrarier, f Contrariest.

Wanted, by an individual, (not a doctor,) any amount of patience ; application to be made at the weather side of the quarter deck, the first rainy day, when the wind is from the north-east.

Stormy Petrel. — Singular Incident. — Our peaceful community was very much startled from its propriety on Sunday last by a great outcry, and the rumor that something as yet unclassified in natural history had been discovered in the rigging of the vessel. All hands rushed upon deck, and beheld an object at some elevation in the rigging. Some supposed it to be a bird, while others thought it was a novel species of turtle that had crept out of the ocean. The bird theory was principally advocated by a gentleman from Brummagem, who unhesitatingly declared his conviction that it was only a lark ; some of the more timid passengers were considerably alarmed, but were re-assured by the chivalrous Johnson, who informed them " it was all right." On further investigation, it appeared that the object in question was a gentleman from Tennessee, who having ventured up the rigging, in violation of well established maritime law, was seized by the sailors and lashed fast, as an example to all land lubbers. He was not allowed to come down from his bad elevation, until he had engaged to come down with a modicum of grog for his captors.

The sea— the sea — I'm on the sea,

I'm where I don't want to be ;

With the sky above and the sea below,

And nought but salt water wherever we go.

Oh ! the ship doth pitch and the ship doth toss,

And bumps you about till you're sore and cross ;

It upsets your soup and it spills your tap,

And it pours out your grub in your neighbor's lap :

I wouldn't be here, if I could once more see land,

I wouldn't — I wouldn't— if I would may I be d — d !

Many other pieces were read which would bear insertion, but as postage is heavy, and patience rare, I will not insert them.

During our passage we were followed by sea fowls of various descriptions far away from land. It is really surprising to watch their movements. The gull, which is the largest and most common, will follow a vessel for days without even resting on the waters, except occasionally when they dart down to catch a fish, or a crumb from the ship.

A few evenings since, one of our passengers was disturbed in his berth by a strange visitor in the shape of a rat, but being of a different hue from rats generally, it was doubted for a time whether the gentleman was correct in his supposition about its being a white rat. The following day the mysterious visitor again appeared, and was seen by several — all of which the mate confirmed, stating that he saw it come on board in New-York, from a China ship.

I have often heard persons expatiate on the beauties of a sun-set at sea, and expected to find it far more beautiful than any thing we landsmen are blessed with ; but I was sadly disappointed, as we were not favored with a clear evening sky during the passage, and in the absence of the many hues created on land by reflection, it failed to present to my mind the beauties I anticipated.