Seventeen years among the Sea Dyaks of Borneo; a record of intimate association with the natives of the Bornean jungles

Front matter

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Introduction

WITH the establishment ol Rajah Brooke's govern^ ment in Sarawak, the different races of its native population gradoally became known to English people, and at length the Dyakland of Borneo has found a definite place and shape in the English mind, much as the Zululand of Africa has done. The Sea Dyak soon appeared in print ; travellers mentioned him, sometimes only as a simple savage ; men who have spent some time in the country, like the late Sir Hugh Low and the late Sir Spenser St. John, described something of his life ; missionary reports had him in their pages ; European residents and civil administrators and others wrote of him in various papers and periodicals. But most, if not all, of these accounts were unavoidably brief, partial, and sketchy, for it did not come within the scope of their purpose to set forth a full and systematic statement of all things Dyak. Mr. Ling Roth collected all the notes about Dyaks he could find, from various sources, and published his harvest ot accumulations in two large volumes. It is a monument of industrious collecting ; but his work is that of the scissors rather than of the pen, a compilation rather than a writing ; and in the extracts, being the productions of various writers at different periods, we see much overlapping and repetition, and some confusion ; and, necessarily, such a book was too bulky to obtain a general circulation. More recently Miss Eda Oreen has given

vii viii INTRODUCTION

to Engliflh readers a little book about Borneo, wonderful in its general aocuraoy, and vivid in its descriptions ; but it is meant especially for missionary circles and missionary reading — ^in fact, it was written expressly for the Borneo Mission Association, whose objects it has done much to promote. But it is a book about the Mission rather than about the Dyaks, and it does not profess to give a complete account of the entire field of Sea Dyak life. /^ This is Mr. Gomes's object, and he attains it. His book , / s not a mere personal narrative of life in Sarawak. We have in it a very full, systematic, and comprehensive description of Sea Dyak life — ^its works, thoughts, sentiments, superstitions, customs, religion, beliefs, and ideals. Our attention is not directed to the magnificent beauties of Bomean tropical scenery and luxuriant flora, nor to the wonders of the insect life with which the land simply abounds. Mr. Gomes sees Dyaks, and Dyaks only, in his mind. The " brown humanity " of the country, not its natural history, occupies his attention. He knows that humanity intimately, and writes from the storehouse which he has accumulated in long years of experience and observation. And he puts all within manageable compass fiknd volume. His book is, I believe, the first which contains a complete picture of Sea Dyak life in all its phases, yet in moderate dimensions. And from my own experience of some twenty years in Sarawak, I can testify to the truthfulness of every page.

Possibly it is sometimes thought that the missionary is not the best man to write aboiit the people to whom he appeals ; that he may be easily biassed in one direction or another, and may think too ill or too well of them, and may allow his judgment to be overcoloured by his religious purpose. A lii^ experience among the people of any race, especially where the language is not well

INTRODUCTION ix

known, may easily result in limited views and imperfect conceptions. But when his residence has extended over many years, and he knows the language as well as his own ; when he has had constant opportmiities of observing their tone and conduct in every relation of life, and of hearing how they talk and think on every imaginable subject, and of seeing how they behave at home as well as abroad — ^how they bear themselves, not only to an occasional white man whom they meet, but also to each other in social dealings — ^when he thus lives in close touch with them at every point, he cannot but obtain a thorough understanding of the realities of their lives.

And the Sea Dyaks are generally a very communicative people. They will willingly give information about every belief and custom, and will quietly discuss every practice and eveny event, good or bad ; and it needs only a little patience and sympathy to enable one to get an insight into the working of their minds, and to realize the true character of their actions in the stru^les, the comedies, or the tragedies of their lives.

Mr. Qomes is thus able to make the Sea Dyak live before us in genuine colours. We can see this dusky son of the jungle in his beliefs and fears, which are many, in his work and in his play, in his ugly faults and amiable virtues, in his weaknesses and in his abilities. And I think that everyone who reads his pages will feel that henceforth he knows the Sea Dyak of Sarawak better than he ever knew him before, and will come to the conclusion that, in spite of his faults, he is a very likeable man.

The Sea Dyckks, then, are worth knowing. They constitute a very valuable element in the population of Sarawak, not only from their numbers, but also from their force of character. They are active, hcurdworking.

X INTRODUCTION

indastrious, ready to earn an honest penny when they have the chance ; and in their domestic relations are amiable and hospitable towards strangers, and when treated with civility and sympathy, all their good points come to the surface. They work hard at rice-planting, which, it is tnie, is of a very primitive sort, but it is the best they know, and as good as that practised by their Mohammedan neighbours, the Malays. If some simple system of irrigation could be introduced among them, especially in lowland cultivation, this, their main industry, would be far more productive than it is, and it would be a real boon to the country at large. They have adventured upon the cultivation of other products when the way has been made clear to them, which is an evidence of their capacity for progress. They penetrate and traverse fcur-oS jungles in search of indiarubber and gutta-percha to add to their earnings. An increasing number of them are keen upon book-learning, as Mr. Gomes points out. They form the Rajah's soldiers and guards, cuid are capable of useful service in subordinate positions as officers. And thus these people, who were once only known as fighters, pirates, and head-takers, are now a real influence in the evolution of a better civilization and a more fruitful era to come in those lands. V The civilizing, CShristianizing force no doubt works slowly ; but there it is, and, comparing present with past, we can see it. A large influx of white people of the usual colonist class would doubtless be too strong for them, and would push them out of the way ; but with a favourable chance, which they now have, of working out a salvation for themselves, I think the Sea Dyaks have a better future before them than Mr. Gomes appears to anticipate.

It is interesting to watch the process of a gradual enlightening going on among such a race when brought

INTRODUCTION xi

into contact with higher civilization and better religion. Mr. Gomes mentions some instances of its expression. Perhaps I may add an iUustrative instance which occurred in my own experiences, many years ago. One night I was at anchor with a Dyak crew on the Saribas River, waiting for the turn of the tide. About 3 a.m. I was awakened by a frightened cry from one of the crew : '>•' Antu ! antu !" (A spirit, a spirit !). Thinking myself lucky at last in a chance of actually seeing one of those invisible beings whom Djraks dread so much, I pushed my head from under the mosquito-curtain, and looked out, and beheld a comet brightly shining not far above the horizon. Presently I heard a school-lad say : *' That's not a spirit ; it's only a star with a tail. I have learnt about it." There was the old superstition and the new knowledge struggling together, a symbol of what is going on in other departments of Dyak thought and belief — ^the working of that which, it is to be hoped, will issue in a higher and an improved life for the race. Our Author's book will evoke a lively interest in such an improvement in Dyakland, and will inspire a deeper sympathy with every progressive effort towards it.

In going over Mr. Gomes's pages my thoughts have often gone back to days, now long past, when he and I were workers together among the people of whom he writes so sympathetically, and many a long-forgotten incident has come back to mind ; and it is a pleasure to write a simple word of welcome to this product of his pen, and to express a conviction that his book is just what was wanted to give the public a clear and adequate^ conception of one of the leading races which have been ruled over by the ** Two White Rajahs " of Sarawak.

JOHN PEBHAM.

Chabd, December J 1910.

AUTHOR'S NOTE

I WISH to express my thanks to Sir Clement Einlooh- C!ooke, M.P., for allowing me to reproduce my translations of Sea Dyak legends which appeared in the Empire Beview ; to Bishop Hose, under whom I worked for seventeen years among the Sea Dyaka of Sarawak, for allowing me to use his excellent article on '* The Contents of a Dyak Medicme-chest "; to the Rev. John Perham, formerly Archdeacon of Singapore, with whom I worked in Sarawak for some years, for his introduction, and also for allowing me to make use of the scholarly papers which he wrote for the Jcwmal of the Straits Branch of the AsicUic Society, on Sea Dyak Religion and Folklore ; and to the Bev. David Steele- Morris for going through the manuscript and making many useful suggestions.

I am indebted to His Highness the Rajah of Sarawak for permission to insert his portrait ; to Dr. Charles Hose for his great kindness in allowing me to use his excellent photographs, and also to the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts for lending me one of their blocks; to Messrs. Bassano, of Bond Street, and Messrs. O. R. Lambert and Co., of Singapore, whose photographs I am kindly permitted to reproduce ; to Mr. Hewitt, formerly curator of the Sarawak Museum ; and Mr. Ha Buey Hon, of Kuching, who have also been so good as to lend me photographs.

To all these, as well as to many unmentioned friends who have helped me to write this book, I offer my sincere thanks.

EDWIN H. GOMES.

Uppbb Nobwood,

December^ 1910.

zii h

Chapter I Sabawak--sib James Brooke Paom

Bornean jungleB—A picture from the past— Unsettled life— Sudden attacks — ^Head-honting— Pirates— Malay pirates — Dyak pirates— Sir James Brooke — ^the iSo^Ml— Rajah Mnda Hassim— Rajah of Sarawak— Suppression of piracy and head-hunting — Captain Keppel— Visit to England, 1847— Introduction of Christian mission — Sir Charles Brooke 21-32

CHAPTER n THE DYAKS

The word " Dyak " — Other native races in Sarawak— if tZanaiM — Kayana — Kinyths — Cruelty — UhUa — BuhUana — Punana — £feni — Sea Dyaks— Land Dyaks— The appearance of the Sea Dyak — ^Men's dress — ^Tattooing — ^Women's dress — Bawai, or corset — The teeth — ^Depilation — ^Language - 33-41

Chapter III

Dyak village house — Tanju — Ruai — BUik — Sadrnt — ^Human heads — ^Valuable jars — ^Paddy- planting — ^Men's work — ^Women's work — House- building — Boat- building — Kadjanffs — Dyak tools — EUong — Duku — Weaving — ^Plaiting mats and basket-making — Hunting — Traps — Fishing— Spoon-bait— Casting-net— Tic5a-fishing—€rocodile-catching • 42-60

ziii xiv CONTENTS

0^C*X^ CHAPTER IV

\ THE DTAK CHARAOTER

General rimarks — Kind to ohildren — ^Indiutriooa — ^Frugal — HonesA— Two cases of theft — Cunee— Honesty of ohildren— Tmthfnl — Curious onstom — Tugong Bvla — Hospitable — Morals — ^Desire for ohildren — ^Divoroe — ^Adultery — ^Dyak law oonoeming adultery— Dyak view of marriage — Unselfishness —Domestic affection — Example - 61-71

Chapter V

Head-hunting — ^Women an incentive — Gruesome story — ^Marriage of Dyak Chiefs — ^Legend— Some customs necessitating a ' human head — ^A successful head-hunter not necessarily a hero — ^A dastardly crime — ^War expeditions — ^The spear token — ^My experience at a village in E^rian— Dyak war costume— Weapons — ^The SumpU — ^Poison for darts — Consulting omen birds — War-boats--Camping— War Council— Defences— War alarm- Ambushes — ^Decapitation and treatment of head — ^Return from a successful expedition— Women dancing— Two Christian Dyak Chiefs — ^Their views on the matter of head-taking 72-86

Chapter VI Social Life

Social position of the women — ^Dyak food — ^Meals — Cooking food in bamboo — ^Laws with r^ard to leaving a Dyak house — Rule of the headman — ^A Dyak trial — ^Power of the headman in old days — ^Dyak wealth — ^Valuable jars — Chut — Naga — Euaa — A convenient dream— -Trading incident at Sebetan — ^Land tenure — Laws about fruit-trees — Slavery — Captives in war —Slaves for debt ..... 86-.95

CHAPTER Vn

The couvade among the Dyaks— Harm to the child— Ways of evading these restrictions — ^A Christian woman's ideas on the subject — ^Witoh-doctors and their methods — ^The waving ol a fowl— Treatment of the mother and ohild— Infanticide —

CONTENTS xvii

CHAPTER XVI DTAK FEASTS

PAOW

CHAPTER XVII

Dyak games — ^Football— War Danoe-^w<»d Danoe — ^Dyak mfuno —Cock-fightiiig— Tope— "' Riding the tidal >b<ire "—Swimming— Trials of strength .... 220-4224

CHAPTER XVm

Loye of mnsio — ^LoTe songs — ^Boat songs — ^War songs — IneantatioDS at Dyak feasts— The song of monming — ^musical instnunents ...... 22&-232

CHAPTER XIX

Love of tsaTel — "The innocents abroad "—Qntta-hunting — Colleoting oanes — ^Hunting for edible birds' -nests — CamphorwoEkiag ...... 233-239

CHAPTER XX

The itinerant missionary — ^Visit to a Dyak house — ^Reception — Cooking — Servants — The meal — Teaching the Dyaks — Gbristians — Servioes — Prayer- houses — Offertory — Reception of the missionary — Dangers of sea travelling donng the north-east monsoon— My boat swamped — In the jnngle — Losing my way — A Dyak's ezperienoe 24<^251 xviii CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXI DTAK FOLKLORE

PAOBS

Sea Dyak stories — Enaera — Kana — The mouse -deer and the tortoise — Klieog — Kumang — Apai Saloi — ^The ounning of the moose-deer — ^The mouse-deer and other animals who went out fishing—The mouse-deer, the deer and the pig — Sea Dyak proverbs ...... 252-263

CHAPTER XXII

Dyak fairy tales and legends— I. Da^tjai and the Whbb-Tigxb's SiSTHB— n. Ths Stobt of Siu, who first taught the Dyaks to observe the omens of birds— III. Pulano Qaka, and how he oame t o be worshipped as the god of the earth 264^15

CHAPTER XXIII

Trial by ordeal — ^Diving contests — A diving contest at Krian — A Dyak superstition — ^Names — Fruit found by the pathway — Ciroumcision — Fishing and hunting superstition — ^Madness — Leprosy— Time— Form of greeting - 3l6--323

CHAPTER XXIV

THE FUTURE OF THE SEA DYAK IN SARAWAK

The Sea Dyak— Work — ^Bad times— Cheerfuhiess— The view from within — ^The Sea Dyak's future — ^Mission work among them — Government— Development in the immediate future 324-331

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAOl ^

A Dyak Girl dbbssid nr all hbb Fensbt to ATmrD a

FsABT FronHtpieee

A SsA Dtak with Shdbld 22

Sib Chablbs Bbookb, 6.C.M.G., thb Pbbsbnt Rajah ov

Saba WAX 30

Thbbb Typical Dyaks 36

Dyak mahdto a Blowfifb 44

Dyak Gibls pomnonro Ricb 46

A HusKiNO Mill 46

Dbyino Paddy 46

Sba Dyaks making a Cakob 50

Gibls Wbavino 62

A Dyak Woman maxiko a Mat with Split Cabb - - - 62 FiYB Dyaks in Wab Dbxss, with Spbabs and Sheblds - 74

A Dyak in Wab Dbbss 78

Human Hxads - 78

Dyak Wabtabb 82

Dyak Hottsbs 88

Dyak Childbxn 102

A Dyak Youth 114

A Dyak Lad 114

A Dyak Wbdding 124

Dyak Gibl Spinning 128

A Dyak Bbidb 130

A Dyak Gibl 130

A Dyak Cbmbtbby by thb Ritbb-sidb 136

A Dyak Danginq thb Wab Dancb 136

xiz

XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAOB

BOAT-TEATELUKO 146

A Dyak Youth holdhtq a Spsab IdOr

A RivBR ScxinB 206

GOOK-FIOHTIirG 210

Thsbb Dyak Gibls dbbsssd nr^ thub Fotbiiy to attend a

Fbast 212

COGK-nGHTDrG 222

A Dyak Woman in Eybbybay Costumx .... 268

A Dyak using a Woodbn Blowpipb 280

A Dyak Gibl 290

Dyaxs making a Dam vob Tuba-fishing .... 206

A Dyak in Gala Gostumb 326

SEVENTEEN YEARS AMONG THE SEA DYAKS OF BORNEO