Roraima and British Guiana, with a glance at Bermuda, the West Indies, and the Spanish Main

Preface

" T "T TILL no one explore Roraima, and bring us

V V back the tidings which it has been waiting

these thousands of years to give us? One of the

greatest marvels and mysteries of the earth lies on the

outskirt of one of our own colonies — only not within

. , British territory because the frontier line has been

0 bent in at the spot, on purpose, it would seem, to

-^ shut it out — and we leave the mystery unsolved, the

marvel uncared for."

IT The above words, together with a general outline of

^the wonders to be explored, appeared in a number of

C- the "Spectator" for April, 1877, and aroused my in- "ZJterest to such a degree that I thought by day and

dreamt by night of Roraima,

<• After reading Mr Brown's delightful book on British

' X Guiana — which was referred to in the article from

< which I have quoted — I made up my mind to visit

— sthat colony, with the hope of at all events seeing

Roraima and exploring its floral treasures, even if I

should be unable to make its ascent.

The summit, Mr Brown says, is inaccessible, except by means of balloons. " According to the traditions of the Lidians" says Sir Robert Schomburgh, " the vi Preface.

summits of the flat-topped gigantic sandstone walls, which never can be reached by human beings, contain large lakes, full of remarkable fish-like dolphins, and continually encircled by gigantic white eagles — their eternal warders."

Full then, of curiosity, with a great longing to become better acquainted with this mysterious region, I arranged my plans so as to arrive in Demerara about January, paying a flying visit on my way to Bermuda via New York, and so on through the West Indies to Guiana. Fortune favoured me, inasmuch as on my arrival at Georgetown, Demerara, I found that the Colonial government was about to send an expedition to Roraima, for the purpose of trying to reach the top of that mountain. With great kindness, the authorities permitted me to accompany it, and I cannot let this occasion pass without expressing my sincere thanks for the opportunity thus afforded me of visiting the interior of British Guiana.

The following rough record of my journey is but a poor return for the many attentions shown me, but it may add its mite in attracting the notice of travellers to a country not often visited for pleasure.

Contents

CHAPTER L

OtJTWARD BOUND— THE ' CANIMA. ' — A ROUGH VOYAGE— FIRST VIEW OF BERMUDA — COASTING — IRELAND ISLE — COMMIS- SIONERS'HOUSE— THE SOUND — HAMILTON— LANDING— AN INDIA- RUBBER TREE— A BILL OF FARE— THE REGISTER — HAMILTON HOTEL — PAPAWS— A SUGGESTION . . . .1

Chapter II

A WHITE TOWN— A CEDAR AVENUE— THE " DUCKING-STOOL" — SEA ENCROACHMENTS — FERN PITS— SPANISH POINT — FAIRY- LAND—THE ISLAND ROAD— AMUSEMENTS — A PAPER HUNT — REEFS— SEA CUCUMBERS — THE SOUTH WIND — SAND-HILLS — BOILERS— ARCHITECTURE — MUSEUM — A RARE SPIDER . 8

CHAPTER HI.

BEEMUDIAN ROADS— NIGHT BLOOMING CACTUS — A NATURAL CURI- OSITY— EXPORTS AND IMPORTS— THE COLOURED NATIVE — HARRINGTON SOUND— DEVIL'S HEAD— NEPTUNE'S GROTTO — A SALT-WATER FOUNTAIN — A DIABOLICAL PLOT— THE CALABASH — MEMENTOES OF TOM MOORE — WALSINGHAM — THE CAUSEWAY — A NEW FEATURE IN CULTIVATION — ST. GEORGE'S . 18 viii Contents.

Chapter IV

ST. THOMAS — FOKTS — BOATMEN — DIVERS — HOTEL BU COMMERCE — MAIN STREET — STABLE COMPANIONS— AMAZONS — A NEGRO

POLITICIAN— DANISH RULE— A SORRY SIGHT JUSTICE IN

THE VIRGIN GROUP— A DAY's DOINGS— KRUMM BAY — CHA-CHAS — AN OCEAN pawnbroker's — LANDSLIP— ALOE — A CURE FOR LUNG DISEASES — UP THE MOUNTAIN . . . .27

Chapter V. To Santa Cruz — Bassin— A Dog-house — Fruit Stealing

"THIBET" TREES— GREEN HERONS — PRETTY SCENERY — -SVEST END — SANTA CRUZ V. ST. THOMAS — CENTRAL ROAD — STEAM PLOUGH— A CENTRAL FACTORY— OPPOSITION— WAGES — CHIL- DREN— HOME AGAIN — RE-EMBARKATION— OFFICIAL DELAY 39

CHAPTER VL

SABA — CRATER COLONIES— ST. EUSTATIDS— ST. KITTS — BRIMSTONE HILL — MOUNT MISERY — AN ATMOSPHERE— BASSETERRE — CROWN COLONY SYSTEM— THE NARROWS — NEVIS— REDONDO—MONTSER- RAT— ANTIGUA — ITS HARBOUR BY MOONLIGHT — GUADELOUPE — MARIEG ALANTE — DOMINICA — CARIES — ISLAND SCENERY— RO- SEAU—FROGS . . . . . . .49

CHAPTER Vn.

MARTINIQUE — ST. PIERRE — MUSCULAR FEMALES— FEVER— GRANDE RUE — TAMARIND AVENUE— SAVANNA— SKETCHING FROM NATl'RE — BOTANICAL GARDENS— MOUNTAIN CABBAGE PALM — THE GREAT TROPICAL FALLACY — WATERFALL — THE LAKE — MUSEUM — A FORSAKEN GARDEN— TO MORNE ROUGE — COUNTRY LIFE — THE CALVARY . . . . . . .57

CTIAI^TER VTH.

A GALA DAY — COSTUMES— CINQ-CLOUS— BATTERIE D'ESNOTY— A CASSAVA FARM — PANDEMONIUM — PREPARATION OF CASSAVA — A "catch" — COUNTRY SCENES — FRESH ATMOSPHERE — A STORM— RAINBOWS— FOREST SCENES— TROPICAL VEGETATION — NOON-DAY HALT . . . . . . G9

Contents. ix

CHAPTER IX.

A CURIO HUNTER — FORT DE FRANCE— BATHS OF DIDIER — DIA- MOND ROCK — F1.YING-PISH TRADE— BARBADOES — CARLISLE BAY — HOAD'S— TRAFALGAR SQUARE — THE ICEHOUSE — ST. ANN'S — SCOTLAND — CONFEDERATION — COAST OF TOBAGO — BIRDS OP TOBAGO— FAUNA OF THE WEST INDIES . . .82

CHAPTER X.

TO TRINIDAD — BOCA DE MONOS — GULF OP PARIA — EORT OP SP2VIN — SAVANNA— BOTANIC GARDENS — A HINDOO VILLAGE— STAPLES —A CACAO PLANTATION — THE BLUE BASIN— FALLS OP MARACAS ^THE PITCH LAKE — START FOR THE ORINOCO . . 92

CHAPTER XL

THE " HEROE DE ABRIL" — APPROACHING THE ORINOCO— MOUTHS OP THE ORINOCO— THE MACAREO CHANNEL— MACAWS — WATER LABYRINTHS — GUARANOS — INDIAN CAMP— TROUPIALS — BAR- RANCAS— LITTLE VENICE— LAS TABLAS — CARATAL GOLD MINES — VENEZUELA — THE CARONI — ROCKS OP PORPHYRY — CIUDAD BOLIVAR— PIEDRA MEDIO— ANGOSTURA BITTERS — UPPER ORI- NOCO—FEATHER HAMMOCKS .... 102

CHAPTER XII.

TO GEORGETOWN — FIRST IMPRESSIONS— BATHS— A DROUGHT — STREET SCENES— AN OIL PAINTING — VICTORIA REGIA — THE CANNON-BALL TREE — SWIZZLES — A PROVISION OF NATURE — DIGNITY BALLS — CALLING CRABS — FOUR EYES— KISKIDIS — FEATHER TRADE — COLOURED SUGAR— A VERSATILE AMERICAN — DEDIERARA CRYSTALS— PHYSALIA — OFF TO RORAIMA . 120

CHAPTER Xni.

TO THE ESSEQUIBO — BARTICA GROVE — THE PENAL SETTLEMENT — CUYUNI RIVER— EL DORADO— RALEIGH's CREDULITY — TENT BOATS — CAMP IN SHED — CARIA ISLAND — AN ARCHIPELAGO — KOSTERBROKE FALLS — ASCENT OF CATARACTS — WARIMAMBO RAPIDS— MORA — A NEW YEAST .... 135

X Contents.

CHAPTER XIV.

A NEW HOUR— MARABUNTAS -SINKING OF THE BURA — ROCK FOR- MATIONS—ARA HUMMING-BIRD — FALLS OF YANINZAEC — JABIRU — CABUNI RIVER — SHOOTING FISH WITH ARROWS — PACU — AN INDIAN CAMP— GREEN-HEART BREAD — INDIAN LIFE — A PAIWORIE FEAST — DUCKLARS — CURRI-CURRIS — SUN BIT- TERNS ........ 149

CHAPTER XV.

THE BUSH-MASTER— LABARRI — CAMOODI — WOOD ANTS — TURESIE — A PACU HUNT — CASHEW TREE — WOODSKINS—PIRAI — SINGING FISH — INDIAN DANCE — BEADS — FASHION — A RIVER BEND — VIEW OF HILLS — SNIPE — INDIAN MYTHOLOGY— WANT A DOG — TABLE MOUNTAINS — MERUME RIVER— COURSE OP THE MAZARUNI 162

CHAPTER XVI.

A FISH HUNT ON LAND— STINGRAYS— THE " CARIBISCE " — TABLE MOUNTAINS— A RIVER GOD— DESERTED VILLAGES— CURIPUNG RIVER — INDIAN ENCAMPMENT — INDIAN SUPERSTITION — THE " PEAIMAN " — DURAQUA — EATING CUSTOMS— ARRIVAL OP LANCE- MAN — TRIANGLE OF MOUNTAINS — MACREBAH FALLS — START ACROSS COUNTRY . . . , . . 17o

CHAPTER XVH.

A "DACANA-BALLI "—STRANGE ROCKS— A ROOT PATH— INDIAN SUPERSTITION — THE -CRY OF A LOST SOUL — NEW CARRIERS — A FEATHERED COSTUME— CURIOUS TREES — COCK OF THE ROCKS — CAMP ON THE LAMUNG— A BOA-CONSTRICTOR — STENAPARU RIVER — THE CARIAPU— A BURNING TREE — THE MAZARUNI— CAPTAIN DAVID — PICTURESQUE CAMP ..... 189

CHAPTER XVHI.

AMATEUR BARBEllS — AN INDIAN EXQUISITE —MOUTH OF THE CAKO — CAMP ON VENEZUELAN TERRITORY — TRUMPETERS — MOUNT CAROUTA— REASON FOR ASCENDING THE CAKO— MARIMA— INDIAN GUIDE — GLIMPSE OF RORAIMA — THE ARUPARU CREEK — COTINGAS — SAVANNA INDIANS— A WATER LABYRINTH— AMUSING SCENES— END OP NAVIGATION .... 204

Contents. xi

CHAPTER XIX.

OLD granny's description OF THE PATH TO RORAIMA — TREE- BRIDGES — MONKEY-POTS — BUSH-ROPES — CASHEW COTTAGE — SAVANNA INDIANS — MAZAEUNI— MAGNIFICENT PALMS — BIXA ORELLANA— COTENGA RIVER — FALLS OP OOKOOTAWIK — VIL- LAGE OF MENAPARUTI — MARIKA RIVER — THE SORCERER AGAIN ........ 21(3

CHAPTER XX.

SAVANNA — RORAIMA AT LAST — APPEARANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN — WATERFALLS— HEAD OF THE QUATING— TRIBUTARIES OF THE AMAZON AND THE ESSEQUIBO — KUKENAM — ITS FALL AND RIVER — THE "PEAIMAN" again — FALLS OF EKIBIAPU— A CELEBRA- TION. ........ 227

CHAPTER XXI.

CLUSIAS — A MELASTOMA— FOREST TREES— FRESH CAMP — A FLORAL TREASURY — BRAZILIAN MOUNTAINS— A COLOUR SYMPHONY — RORAIMA'S EASTERN WALL — NO MEANS OF ASCENT — GOAT- SUCKERS—SOUTHERN WALL OF RORAIMA— FALL OP KAMAIBA — KUKENAM FALLS — WESTERN SIDE OF RORAIMA— REASONS FOR RETURNING HOME — SAVANNA FIRE — A STORM . . 232

CHAPTER XXII.

INDIAN VISITORS — A REWARD TO ASCEND RORAIMA — LAST VIEW OF RORAIMA — HOW TO ASCEND RORAIMA — MENAPARUTI — A HUNTING PARTY — CASSIREE — INDIAN PASTIMES — RUMOURS OF WAR — AMARYLLIS— QUATING RIVER — CASHEW COTTAGE AGAIN — THE AEAPARU — FALSE ALARMS —OLD FRIENDS . . 24-5

CHAPTER XXIII.

A PAINFUL WALK— bird's NEST FERNS— DOWN THE CURIPUNG— VOICES OF THE NIGHT — AN INDIAN FAMILY— A QUICK JOURNEY — SHOOTING THE FALLS — TIMBER SHOOTS IN CANADA— A LOST CHANNEL— ANTICIPATIONS OF A FEAST— CAPSIZE— A SWIM FOR LIFE — TEBUCU FALLS— HOME AGAIN . . . 25o xii Contents.

CHAPTER XXIV.

FROM SOURCE TO SEA— END OF THE DROUGHT — D'URBAN — A RACE MEETING — ENTHUSIASTIC COLOURED FOLK — ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS — VENEZUELANS — CARIBE — CARUPANO — CUMANA — AN EARTHQUAKE CENTRE— BARCELONA— LLANURAS—LLANERO — PLAINS — LA SILLA ...... 265

CHAPTER XXV.

VIEW OP LA GUAIRA — PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA — LANDING— INDIAN PATH TO CARACAS — BRILLIANT BEETLES— VIEW FROM CERRO DE AVILA — DESCENT TO CITY — CLIMATE — AN EARTHQUAKE ALARM — SAD ASPECT OF THE CITY — MYSTERIOUS POWER OF THE MOON — PERIHELION AND PESTILENCE .... 275

CHAPTER XXVI.

EL PASEO— HISTORICAL RENOWN— RESERVOIRS— VIEW OF CARxVCAS — RIVERS OF PARADISE — COMPARED WITH MEXICO — PLAZA DE BOLIVAR— STATUE OF THE LIBERATOR— ENTRY INTO CARACAS— FUNERAL CORTEGE — A NATION'S GRATITUDE . '287

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE LEGISLATIVE PALACE — A COMPLIMENT TO THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON — PLAZA DE GUZMAN BLANCO— THE UNIVERSITY — SAN FELIPE — REMINISCENCES OF HUMBOLDT — A STRANGE DISEASE — PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA — EARTHQUAKE AT CUA — THE LEGISLATURE — LEAVE FOR LA GUAIRA . . 295

CHAPTER XXVIII.

CARRIAGE ROAD BETWEEN CARACAS AND LA GUAIRA — THE " COW- TREE"— A VENEZUELAN SUCCESS — FRENCH MAIL STEAMER- LEAVE LA GUAIRA— PUERTO CABELLO— GOLFO TRISTE— MILI- TARY HISTORY— CURACOA— GULP OF MARACAIBO — SAVANILLA — EMERALD MINES— CLOUDS OP BUTTERFLIES— LEAVE SA- VANILLA ....... 305

Contents. xiii

CHAPTER XXIX.

TREASURES OP THE DEEP— THE SAN PEDRO ALCANTARA— MAR- GARITA— SEEKING LOST TREASURE— OCEAN MINING— NAVY BAY, COLON— INTER-OCEANIC COMMUNICATION— GOMARA'S PROJECT — nelson's scheme— THE NICARAGUA ROUTE— THE ACANTI- TUPISI ROUTE— INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION . .313

CHAPTER XXX.

COLON— DEPARTURE — COLUMBUS AND MR. ASPINWALL— RAILWAY ACROSS ISTHMUS— SCENES ON THE ISTHMUS— TELEGRAPH POSTS — HOLY GHOST ORCHID — PANAMA HATS— PARADISE— MOUNT ANCON — PACIFIC MAIL STEAMER— ON THE WHARF AT PANAMA — PANAMA FROM THE SEA— LAST LOOKS . . . 323

RO RAIMA.

Chapter I

OUTWARD BOUND— THE ' CANIMA ' — A ROUGH VOYAGE— FIRST VIEW OF BERMUDA — COASTING — IRELAND ISLE — COMMIS- SIONERS'HOUSE — THE SOUND — HAMILTON— LANDING — AN INDIA- RUBBER TREE— A BILL OP FARE— THE REGISTER — HAMILTON HOTEL — PAPAWS — A SUGGESTION.

" Under the eaves of a southern sky,

Where the cloud roof bends to the ocean floor

Hid in lonely seas, the Bermoothes lie — An emerald cluster that Neptune bore

Away from the covetous earth god's sight,

And placed in a setting of sapphire light."

" T T TELL, if we are going to a warmer tem- V V perature than this, few of us will return,' was the remark made by one of the passengers on board the little steamer ' Canima,' which was rolling heavily in a perfectly smooth sea, past Staten Island on her way from New York to Bermuda. Tt was the month of November, but the sun was as hot and the sky as brassy as though it had been August. On shore we could see preparations being made for cricket, lawn-tennis, and archery ; and there were we

B bound for a semi-tropical climate. It was one of those days with which the clerk of the weather favours New York in early spring, and sometimes even when the Indian summer is supposed to have ended.

I have said that the vessel rolled heavily, even in a smooth sea, and we were naturally anxious to know what she would do in rough weather ; some thought that she would turn over altogether, others, that she would regain her equilibrium and keep it, but this latter idea was soon proved to be a fallacy, as the wretched ship had no more centre of gravity than a cherub.

Hardly had we entered the open sea when a change in the weather occurred. The sky was overcast, the waves assumed a threatening aspect, a cold drizzle set in, and general discomfort prevailed.

How gay and lively the scene on deck was when we started ! how dull and quiet it suddenly became ! just as I was imitating the example of the rest of the passengers by retreating to my cabin, an old gentleman who had made the passage to Bermuda thirty-two times spoke to me of

"The old green glamour of the glancing sea."

As I did not feel much inclined to listen to poetry, I merely remarked that I thought Lucretius was right when he declared that " the sea was meant to be looked at from shore," and then withdrew.

A less enjoyable voyage could not be imagined, and what with a head wind, rainy weather, the gulfstream in a state of extra-roughness, and French- Canadian stewards, whose dirty appearance made the greasy food less appetising, if possible, than it otherwise would have been, a more ghostly, half-starved lot of travellers never arrived at their destination.

Bermuda. 3

How many lines of steamers there are whose owners trade on the old Sanscrit proverb which they might adopt as their motto, '' The river is crossed, and the bridge is forgotten."

Fortunately the passage only lasted four d.iys, the advertised time being seventy-two hours; and glad indeed were we when we had passed through the narrow reef-channel, and were coasting along the western side of the main island of the Bermudas, and within the formidable chain of breakers which surrounds them.

The first view of the island is disappointing, as the low hills have a barren and desolate appearance, and the plain white cottages which are dotted about here and there stand in bare, uncultivated spots. Lower down, however, as we approach the central portion, the face of the island brightens. Old acquaintances of Bermuda point out the position of Harrington Sound, which they declare — and rightly as we afterwards thought — to be the most lovely part of the island ; but from the vessel all we can see is a narrow inlet which one could almost jump across. The long lines of roofs which sparkle so in the sun on the hill yonder are the barracks, and the red coats of the soldiers make pleasant bits of colour, which contrast well with the gleaming sand and the deep green cedar-nooks in which the white houses nestle.

Farther on we pass Government House and the signal station, from which the arrival of the steamer has long been signalled ; then Clarence Hill — Admiralty House — is left behind, and we round Spanish Point, with Ireland and other islands forming a semi-circle on our right. On Ireland Island is to be seen

B 2 as everybody knows, the fiimous floating dock which was towed from England in 1869. At another time, this would probably have been the centre of attraction, but the eyes of our sea-worn passengers were directed to a fine large building well situated at the extremity of that island. " What a splendid hotel!" said one, and " How delightfully cool it must be there !" said another. It proved to be the " Commissioner's House," now used as military quarters.

The history of this building is rather singular. A certain Treasury clerk was appointed " Commissioner " in charge of the dockyard, and, not being satisfied with the house given him to occupy, received permission from the Home Government to spend ^12,000 in building a new one. This concession appears to have turned his head, for the house gradually assumed the dimensions of a palace; marble chimney-pieces were erected, and stabling built for a dozen horses, and this in a country where fire-places were hardly necessary, and where, at that time, horses were useless. Marble baths and other trifles ran up ihe bill to over _^6o,ooo. The gentleman for whom this expense was incurred never occupied the house, as he went mad, and the oflice of " Commissioner " was soon dispensed with.

Whilst an old resident was telling us this story, we had entered the Great Sound, and we found ourselves in a pretty land-locked harbour, on whose wonderfully clear blue water floated numerous fairy islets — a scene which reminded us of the words of Moore :

" The morn was lovely, every wave was still ■When the first perfume ot a cedar-hill Sweetly awakened us, and with smiling charms The tairy harbour wooed us to its arms."

The Landing at Hamilton. 5

Through these green islands we wound our way carefully, one channel being particularly narrow and dangerous. Beneath its transparent waters we could distinguish an old cannon ; and then a sudden turn brought us into the pretty port of Hamilton, where we dropped anchor close to the shore. But being on shore and only near it are very different things, and it seemed hours to us hungry mortals before the vessel was gradually dragged to within forty feet of the quay. Nearer we could not get, on account of a shallow.

Now to land in boats appeared too ridiculous for such a short distance, but no other means were visible. A bridge lowered by a crane would have landed us all in a few minutes, but there was no appearance of such a thing. Old-fashioned Bermuda wanted no new-fangled notions, so we had to abide our time and wait until a bridge had been manufactured in the following way : Ropes were thrown from the vessel and fastened to the outer ends of long beams, which were hauled on board, their other extremities resting on shore. Then a number of grinning darkies strided these beams, and lashed cross-bars to them ; planks were laid on the frame, and over these we walked on to the quay.

There were only two passengers besides myself for the Hamilton Hotel, and these were a very charming old lady and her son — a young physician from Boston — who had been advised to spend the winter abroad. A short walk brought us to the hotel, a good-sized, comfortable building, commanding a fine view of the harbour and port of the town. On our way up, we passed a splendid specimen of the india-rubber tree, whose luxuriant growth almost hid the broad veranda'd cottage behind it. Speaking of this tree, Mark Twain says that, when he saw it, it was "out of season, possibly as there were no shoes on it, nor suspenders, nor anything a person would properly expect to find there.' This tree was the first sign of tropical vegetation that we had seen, which fact had rather surprised us, as on the cover of a " bill of fare," which had been shown to us in New York, was a picture of the Hamilton Hotel, with an avenue of palms and bananas leading up to it. The fine palms — mountain cabbage — we afterwards discovered about half-a-mile off, and not even within sight of the hotel. But one cannot expect to find everything one sees, even on a bill of fare. We were informed by the clerk that we were the first visitors of the season. " But somebody else is here," said I, pointing to a solitary name in the visitor's register. " Oh," said he, " that's me ;" and forthwith assigned us our rooms.

And now let me say a word about this hotel, which is notorious for having prevented many strangers from visiting Bermuda, and others who would have liked to return, from coming back. The rooms are simply but comfortably furnished, the situation is good, and the grounds might be very prettily laid out. The whole cause of discontent with the hotel has hitherto — that is, up to the winter of 1877-78 — been with the management. The house had been leased to an American, a pleasant, agreeable person, but without the least idea of managing an hotel. People did not come to Bermuda for third-rate American hotel dinners, but there they got them, until they could stand it no longer. It was useless to speak to the manager ; no redress was obtainable. Everything was served at once ; an armada of little white dishes was placed before you,

Hamilton Hotel. 7

in one a dry cutlet, in another a few dried pellets of fried potatoes, peas like buckshot, boiled potatoes like cannon-balls; here an inch of tough chicken, there a slice of beef, baked until all its proper juices had been extracted ; heavy pumpkin pies, tea and coffee quite undrinkable, butter that no one could touch ; such, with but little variation, were the component parts of the three meals. Even the provisions of Nature were not made as available as they might have been. In the garden were two or three fine papaw trees, whose insipid green fruit was sometimes given to us as a delicious West-Indian preserve. It is said that the leaves of this tree, if rubbed on a bull's hide, would immediately convert it into tender beefsteak ; now our meat was always of the toughest description.

Day after day I used to see my two friends, fresh from their home in Boston, rise from the table without having touched anything, and I felt quite ashamed of our English colony. Had the proprietor been English, I think I should have run away. As it was, we limited our visit to a fortnight instead of a month, the doctor accompanying me to the West Indies, whilst his mother returned home.

It seems a pity that quiet Bermuda should not attract more visitors — ilmericans especially — than it does. A well-kept hotel there would be very welcome to many who now winter in Florida or Nassau (Bahamas). The island is more interesting than either of those places, and equally picturesque ; and I have no doubt that visitors, when they left, would carry away as pleasant recollections as they would probably leave behind.

Chapter II

A WHITE TOWN— A CEDAR AVENUE— THE " DUCKING-STOOL" — SEA ENCROACHMENTS — FERN PITS— SPANISH POINT — FAIRY- LAND—THE ISLAND ROAD— AMUSEMENTS — A PAPER HUNT — REEFS— SEA CUCUMBERS— THE SOUTH WIND — SAND-HILLS — BOILERS— ARCHITECTURE — MUSEUM — A RARE SPIDER.

" Pleasant it was when the woods were green, And the winds were soft and low, To lie amid some sylvan scene, Where the long drooping boughs between, Shadows dark and sunlight sheen Alternate come and go."

LONGFELLOW.

WHEN you first look out of your window over the town, you imagine that there has been a slight snow-storm, so gleaming white are the roofs of all the houses. But you soon learn that, owing to the absence of springs and streams, the roofs are whitewashed, and kept scrupulously clean, as the rain-water is thence conducted into cisterns, from which it is drawn for use.

The roads are white, the houses are whiter, and the roofs are whitest ; but what would otherwise be an unpleasant glare is modified by the foliage, which half conceals the houses, and by the green Venetian blinds, which shade all the windows.

The " Ducking-Stool'* 9

Nearly every house has a garden, and passion-flowers, morning glory, and other vines creep up the pillars and over the piazzas in great profusion and brilliancy. " Pride of India " trees border the sides of the streets, but these fail to give the delicious shade which is obtained under the cedar avenue which lies on one side of the small public gardens. Here you can stroll in the heat of the day, protected from the sun by a green roof, and surrounded by roses,* heliotropes, lilies, great beds of geraniums, pomegranates, gorgeous blossoms of hybiscus, gladioli, and all sorts of lovely creepers. Then when the sun's rays have lost some of their power, you can prolong your walk along the winding road, past the pretty country church of Pembroke, and leaving Mount Langton (Government House) on your right, behold at the bottom of a shady lane spreadeth a golden network, like a veil of gauze, stretching far and wide. That is the sea, and in a short half- hour you have crossed this part of the island.

Better still is it to come here in the morning, and after a plunge in the deep blue water, sit on the "ducking stool," and meditate on the feelings of the poor wretches who, in days gone by, suffered the water punishment for witchcraft, sorcery, and other imaginary offences. A notice prohibits bathing on Government grounds, but down below the steep rocks there are plenty of nooks and hollows, sand-carpeted and as private as your own chamber. For myself, I never

* Some magnificent roses are grown near Hamilton, and one gentleman informed me that he had over two hundred varieties thriving luxuriantly ; not the over-blooming, straggling plants, whose blossoms are coarse, illshaped, and of faded colour, so often seen in hot climates, but beautiful bright roses with thick, petals and rare symmetry of outline.

10 Eoraima.

could make out where the Government property began or where it ended.

On this north shore a delicious breeze tempers the heat of the sun, and it is enjoyment enough to look at and listen to the sea, to watch the men collecting the seaweed for their land, or to read, and consequently fall asleep. No one will disturb you ; there are no tramps in Bermuda, and your watch will still be going, even should you sleep for hours. To return to town two different ways are open to vou ; both are along the same sea-shore road, but lie in opposite directions ; the one leads to the north-east, until you branch off" to the right past the barracks ; the other — and the one we will take — runs south-west towards Admiralty House and Spanish Point. All along this road you cannot help noticing the encroachment of the sea, and you wonder how long it will be before the road on which you are walking becomes the edge of a craggy wall for the waves to beat against and undermine. Here truly does —

" The hungry ocean gain Advantage on the kingdom of the shore."

The hollowness of Bermuda is very remarkable, and in many places the cavernous ground gives forth very musical sounds when struck.

As we proceed on our walk, we see but few signs of cultivation; here and there are strips of garden running up into the ubiquitous cedar bush, but most of the land is used for grazing, and very indifferent grazing, too. One peculiarity amongst the four footed animals is that they are nearly all black and white ; another is that they are all tethered ; everything seems

Fairy Land. 11

at anchor in Bermuda, cattle, goats, pigs, donkeys, even the hens are not at Hberty. Occasionally one passes a deep well, originally dug out for the purpose of obtaining fresh water, but entirely lined with the lovely maiden-hair fern. This delicate species gives a special charm to the island, as it grows luxuriously on the walls and rocks, in caves and hollows, and drapes the numerous land-pits with its graceful fronds. Where the fern declines to grow, there the "life-plant" flourishes, and quickly covers up the bare places with its deep green, fleshy leaves. Of such vitality is this weed that a single leaf, if plucked and pinned to the wall, will live and send out shoots from its edges with perfect indifi^erence as to its changed abode.

At Spanish Point the view across to Ireland Island is very picturesque, and one perfect horse-shoe bay, with white sandy shore, lingers a long time in the memory, not only on account of the peaceful scene of which it forms a part, but also for its own exquisite form. Near by is Fairy-land, well named, for it really is one of the most charming spots in Bermuda. The sea here runs far up into the island, forming a lake, with bays, islets, caves, isthmuses, and peninsulas. Just above one of the green bights stands a little nest called " Honeymoon Cottage," a gem of a place, where many a happy pair have passed the first week or two of their new life. The hall-door steps lead down to the bathing house, which, when I visited it, contained only one little shoe, but that worthy of Amphitrite herself