Pearls of the Pacific

Front matter

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Chapter I

Departure from San Francisco — Sunny Days — Poetry and Prose — Land Ho ! — Oahu — First View of Honolulu — Landing — Kanakas — Royal Hawaiian Hotel . . . .1

Chapter II

Greetings — Walk before Breakfast — Aspect of Honolulu — The Natives — Dress — The Palace — Native Church — English Church — Traditions — Hawaiian History — The Taboo — Rank — The Constitution — Claimants for the Crown . . .9

Chapter III

A Procession — The Hall of Legislature — Important Discovery — The Ballot — Attack on Committee — Appeal to Queen Emma — Attack on the Court-House — Foreign Intervention — Honolulu in Repose — Installation of the King — Kalakaua — Prorogation of Parliament — The Regalia — Kahilis . . .18

Vlll CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Valley Rainbows — Hawaiian Steeds — The Nuanu Valley — A Parent Palm — Taro— The Pali — Native Industry — A Funny People — Games — A Courteous Race— Cheerful Shops — Chinese — Wild Animals— A Shooting Expedition — Pearl Harbour — Candle- Nuts—Land Shells— Globe Fish . . . .31

Chapter V

Hula-Hula — Craters— A New Drill— Turning Turtles — Waikiki— Skull Hunting — Valleys — Punahou College — Missionaries — Punch-Bowl — Funeral Rites — Sorceresses — Prophecies — Funeral of Lunalilo. . . . . . .46

Chapter VI

Bringing Presents — The Hawaiian Archipelago — Steam — Simple Governor — Lepers — Close Quarters — Travelling Natives — Reciprocity — Lahaina — Maui — The Wailuku Valley — The House of the Sun — A Mountain Triangle — North-East Coast — Arrival at Kealakeakua Bay . . . . . .59

Chapter VII

Death-Place of Captain Cook — Hiding the Dead — Tombs — Objects of Interest — A Distrust of Chronicles — Why Captain Cook was Killed— Ancient Land-Owners — Kaawaloa — Battle- Ground — Place of Refuge — Lava Cataract — Curious Cattle — Blight— A Start . . . . . .71

Chapter VIII

Hawaiian Houses — Lomi-Lomi — An Early Start — A Lava Landscape — Thirst — Dew Drinking — Ohias — Water Spouts — Waiohinu — A Native Game — Saddles — Eruption of 1868 — Tidal Wave — Lava Flow — Plains of Kapapala — A Ranch — My Guide . ..... 83

CONTENTS. IX

Chapter IX

Indications of the Volcano — Pulu Fern — Volcanic Fires taking a Southerly Direction — The two Volcanoes of Manna Loa — The Solfatara — Luxuries — Night View of the Crater — Two Sorts of Craters — The Visitors Book — Madame Pele — Volcanic Deities . . . . . . .97

Chapter X

Description of the Crater of Kilauea — Descent into the Crater — Crossing the Crater — Pele's Hair — the South Lake — Cones — Return — A Torrent of Fire — Scene for a Sensation Play — Fall of Lava Floor — Afterthoughts . . . .104

CHAPTER XL

Pulu Fern — The Track — Half-way House — A Native Hen — A Lesson in Poi- Eating— A Lively Night — Pigs and Slumber — A Wet Start — Hilo — The Waialuka — Dangerous Crossing — A Footer — The Rainbow Falls — Surf- Swimming — The Wingless Bird — Astonishing Effect of Advertising — Oo — Departure from Hilo ....... Ill

Chapter XII

Death — Natural Feeling — Up the Bed of a River — A Fairy Grot — A Native Feast — Bill of Fare — Lomi-Lomi — Mormon Settlement — Local Intelligence — Amusements — American Parties — At Sea again ...... 123

Chapter XIII

Trade Winds— A Path of Foam— Flying Fish— The Cuisine- Desertion — A Fowl Fate — Land oh ! — Palmyra Island — Inhabitants of a Lagoon Island — Model Jurymen — In the " Doldrums "—A Calm— A Phaeton . . . .130

X CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

Rose Island — Buying an Island — Tutuila — Pago-Pago— A Native House — Cocoa -Nut Oil — Upolu — Coast Scenery — Chasing Canoes — Samoans — Chignons — Dress — Eve — Caught in a Trap— A Rescue — -Apia — The Harbour . . . 138

Chapter XV

Samoan Time — Errors — War — Arms — Paint — Boasting — Destruction of Property — Serious Questions — The Beach-Road — Washing-Day — French Mission— Consulate — A River— Hospitality — Native House — A Chief — Kava — Ceremony — Bowls — A Samoan Beauty . . . . . . .148

Chapter XVI

The Government — Poll Tax — Tax Day — A Point of Honour — An Awkward Bequest — Fine Mats — Shaggy Mats — A Head-Dress — Nautilus Fillets — A Tabooed Head — Chiefs — Death by the " Sting-Ray" — Court Dialect — .A Musical Language — Mid-day in Samoa — Tappa — Revelry — Characteristics — Samoan Life 158

Chapter XVII

A Coral Reef at a Distance — Utility of Reefs — Openings in Reefs — Samoan Fishermen — A Cruise over a Coral Reef — Opercula — Sting-Ray — Giant Clams — Palolo — Native Superstition — Samoan Trade — Monopoly — Want of Communication — Crossing Streams — Reciprocity — A Practical Joke . . .169

Chapter XVIII

Bread Fruit Tree — Polynesian Diet — Cocoa- Nut Palm — Destruction of Forests — English Love for Trees — South Sea Surgery — Palm Grove — A Cotton Plantation — View from same — Labourers — Tannese — Hair-Dressing — Ear- Piercing — Character — Line Islands — Pandanus — Island Starvation — Kidnapping 180

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIX

Samoan Frailty — Raising Prices — A Picturesque Pair — Fresh Suits of Clothes Climates— Flowers— Forest— The "Ivi"— Daiga — Samoan Cosmogony — Birds — Bird-Tamers — Pets — Pigeon Shooting — Samoan Scene — Civilized Picnics — Thoughts — An Intruder — Bill of Fare — Palm Salad — Cocoa- Nuts — Climbing Palms — Sunset . . . . .193

Chapter XX

A Native Judge — Coast Landscape — Songs — Fishing by Torchlight — Night in Native House — A Didunculus — Scarcity of the Species — A Settler — Life in the South Seas — White and Coloured Races — A Bargain — Trespassers will be prosecuted — Fertile Islands ...... 204

Chapter XXI

Over the Reefs — Manono — Native Chief — A Game — The Judge's Etiquette — An Anecdote — An Islet- — Entrance to Apolima — Apolima — A Tasteful House — Rare Visitors — Kava — Savaii — Box and Monkey Fish — A Fishing Scene — The Southern Cross —Moonlight . . . . . .215

Chapter XXII

Taking the Veil — Priestly Influences — Samoan Census — Religious Feeling — Church Service — Fondness for Books — Bonnets — Samoan History — Tonga and Samoa — Massacre — Prisoners — High Priest as Warrior and Prophet — Civil War — A Usurper — Avola — A Proposal — A Banquet — Avola and Thama 222

Chapter XXIII

Path to the Waterfall— A Pretty Scene— The Falls— Novel Mode of enjoying a Bath — Kindling Fire — Cocoa-Nut Crab — Native Story — Tropical Birds — Native Customs — Excursions — Shells — Hermit Crabs — Coral — Departure from Samoa . . 233

Xll CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV

Bound for Wallis Islands — Sisters of Charity — Samoan Drawbacks — Fever and Dysentery — A New Reform Movement — Extinction of Races — A Barrier Reef — Intricate Navigation — Loss of the French Ship 'L'Hermite' — Native War— Departure from Uvea ..... 243

Chapter XXV

Alofi — Futuna — Roman Catholic Priest — Printed Tappa — Toddy — Roman Catholic Cathedral — A Portable Religion — Language of Flowers — Natural Fortress — Native Trees — The " Uti — The Timanu — Canoes — Double Canoes — Rotumah — Volcanic Origin ....... 253

Chapter XXVI

A Hurricane — L' Africaine — Government — A New Religion — Fines — Origin of Rotumah — Houses — Burial- Grounds — Expressions of Grief — Snake- Charmers — Poisoning Fish — Craters — Split Island — Landing — Discharging Live Freight — Attau Island — A Pleasure Party — Wea Islanders — The Rescue — Shipping Oil. . . . . . .262

Chapter XXVII

New Method of Killing Sharks — Pilot- Fish — Portuguese Man-of- War — Velella — Jelly- Fish — Phosphorescent Medusas — Pryosoma — Zodiacal Stars — Yasaua Group — Tonga — King George — Origin of Tattooing Men — At Anchor . .274

Chapter XXVIII

The Fijian Archipelago — Subsidence of Islands — Islands rising — Viti Levu — Mountaineers — Process of Curing — Fijians — Dress — Visit to the Cave of a Devil- Priest — An Interesting Family Relic — Appearance of Country — Trumpet- Shell — Priest's Mummery — Poison — Medicinal Herbs — Cotton — Increased Vegetation — Reef- Navigation — Echini as a Hair Dye — Barbarity of Fijians . . . . . . .280

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XXIX. Ovalau — An Alpine Scene — Levuka-— Lost in a Hurricane

Society — Tribute to the Commissioners — Fijian Coup d'Etat — The National Debt — Annexation — Elements of Discord — Thakombau's Estimation of Fijian Nature— Moafu — Chiefs— Duty of Annexation — Still a Chance for Fiji . . .291

Chapter XXX

Native Soldiers — Fijian Bravery — Murderers — The Burns' Murder — Target Practice — Cotton Ginning — Relieving Guard — Fijian Houses — Ridge-Pole — Yagona- Shells — An Orange Dove — Orange Cowrie — Yam Planting — Madrai — A Fijian Oven 300

Chapter XXXI

A Ramble round Levuka — Turret- Rock — Croton Oil — Parasites — Damu-Damu — Wi Apple — A View — A Breeze — Tree-Ferns — Vesi — Falle of Waitobe — Taro ; a Tale — Missions — Tui Levuka — Devotion to a Chief . . . . .311

Chapter XXXII

Common Scenes at Levuka — Labour going Home — Farewell — Snakes — A Picturesque Group — An Albino — A Stampede — A Yasu — The Eastern Group — Lomo-Lomo — Maafu's House — Taviuni — Parroquets — Yanua Levu — Ritova — A Father's Love — Somo-Somo-Goro ..... 320

Chapter XXXIII

Hurricane Months — Levuka as a Port of Call — Thakombau — The Delta of the Rewa — Suva — A Sugar Plantation — Sugar Works — Lotu — Clubs — Cannibal Forks — Bowls of the " Devil- Priest " — Whale's Tooth — Soro — Experience of a Hostage — His Message — Cannibal Dance — The Oven Ready — A Dispute — Escape . . . . . . .329

XIV CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXIV

Surrender of Mountain Chiefs — A Wife Difficulty — A would-be Christian — Taxes — A Wise Ordinance — Exports — Bane of Fiji — Origin of Cannibalism— Hunger — Droughts — Native Expressions — Gaining Courage — Religious Duty — Samoan Cannibalism — Dorian — Pity ..... 342

Chapter XXXV

Glamour of the Senses — Galoa Bay — Kandavu — Stranding of the " MacGregor ' — Country Walk — A Mangrove Swamp — Sago Palm — Along the Shore — The Governor's House — Fijian Temple — Whaling — Nose- Flute — Torchlight — A Battery Establishment — Nautilus — Farewell .... 350

PEARLS OF THE PACIFIC.

Chapter I

DEPARTURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO— SUNNY DAYS— POETRY AND PROSE— LAND HO !— OAHU — FIRST VIEW OF HONOLULU— LAND- ING— KANAKAS —ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL.

I j^^^ HE bell has been rung warning loiterers = ' ! ^ ashore ; the usual and often pathetic

incidents attending the departure of an ocean steamer are over ; the gaily spoken " good-bye" has concealed a little trembling of the lips ; and the great vessel has swung out from her moorings, and speeds through the smooth water of the bay of San Francisco, towards the Golden Gate. If the future could have been revealed, I wonder how many of our fellow-passengers would have returned in the pilot boat to gladden the vanishing faces ashore,, instead of seeking fortune in far distant Australia ! Would any have gone back, or would the hopeful trust in fate and fortune have prevailed in spite of disastrous revelations ?

The voyage did not commence pleasantly, as directly we were on the broad ocean we were tossed about most unmercifully by the wildest of seas, and the first two days were very cold and dismal. Whatever the poets may say

" A wet sheet and a flowing sea "

are not physically agreeable — at least, not in one's cabin; and mentally are apt to damp the ardour both of present joy and of future anticipation.

For a couple of days the tables were graced with those inevitable precursors of sea-sickness — the ominous ladders or fiddles — and the lamps, curtains, &c, oscillated in the usual inexplicable manner. Then there came an agreeable change. The dark-grey waves of the north, with their foaming crests and clouds of spray, were left behind and were replaced by the gentle undulations of a tropical sea, the waters of which, of a pale blue tint, sparkled in the dazzling rays of the sun. Then the ice of selfish reserve thawed, and people began to make acquaintance. Those who had suffered most from the demon nausea, began to look and feel quite piratical. We ran from side to side to look at a whale, and it was generally allowed that the most ordinary sunset was most gorgeous. Then the stars came out ; and although this is by no means an unexpected manifestation of nature, yet they were thought to have a brilliancy and power hitherto unnoticed. In fact, everybody was satisfied with himself and everybody else.

Perhaps at sea a change in external circumstances would sometimes be agreeable ; and for exercise one

Islands of the South Sea. 3

might prefer some more exhilarating amusement than sea-quoits and walking the deck ; but still it is very pleasant in the warm latitudes to lie under the awning, even without other occupation than watching the white sea-birds screaming hoarsely for food round the stern, and at night to doze off with the bright stars shining in silence all around you.

It is worth much to one to rest through days like these ; to feel that the cares, and perhaps the sorrows, of every-day life are, for a time at all events, losing their sting ; that you are leaving behind the dust of the world's highways, with their oceans of grief and tiny islets of human happiness ; and that you are drifting in delicious leisure to some long-wished-for haven, which even yet borders on the realms of dream-land.

For my part, I could hardly realise the fact that I was on my way to scenes that I had pictured to myself since childhood ; and that I was at last to compare the accounts which I had read in books with facts observed by myself, thus to form an independent judgment of the wonders of the islands of the South Seas. I had not made up my mind which of the groups in those waters I should visit, as that could be settled at Honolulu ; but I think my preference was for the Samoan Islands, or for the Marquesas. Hermann Melville's charming description of the latter, in his delightful " Typee," was constantly before me, and I had a very strong desire to find out the beauteous " Fayaway," that I might be able to convince myself whether there was more of romance or reality in the narrative.

B 2

The prospect of spending seven or eight months in those lands with which I had been made so familiar by books, was very captivating ; and when lazily stretched out on one of those comfortable, long Chinese cane chairs, I used to fall asleep with a general jumble, in my brain, of gleaming sands, coral reefs, wonderful shells, and a wealth of tropical life, all indescribably mixed up with dusky princesses and nut-brown maids, who were invariably dancing or weaving love-spells under the soft, warm skies, and floating, fleecy clouds that were just visible from the mysterious aisles formed by the goldentinted palms.

The awakenings from these dreams were, as a rule, of a prosaic order, as they were generally caused either by a request that I would come and make up a rubber at whist — that invariable finale to the day's amusement at sea — or by the discomfort of my position, when some ingenious friend had improved the opportunity afforded by my slumbers, by carefully cording me down to the chair in such a manner that, unless aided by the influence of "spirits/' I could not hope for release under less than a quarter of an hour.

So the days slipped quietly by until, on the tenth day out from San Francisco, we saw a peak of the island of Maui ; after which we ran past Molokai, and before long beheld the peaks of Oahu, on whose southern side is Honolulu. As we approached the land, we could easily see that the scenery of the island was wild and rugged, rather than tropical. The high, bare volcanic cliffs, all glowing with a pink and

Honolulu. 5

purple hue in the rays of the sun, and of a warm grey tint in the shadows, stood out grandly against the sky, while narrow valleys, covered with the greenest of grasses and low shrubs, cut through the hills in all directions.

After rounding the south-eastern point of the island the scenery became much more interesting, and corresponded more entirely with the expectations we had formed. On the right of us lay Diamond Head — an ancient, hoary crater, of a reddish-brick colour, seamed with great regularity by lava streams, and barren and forbidding, but picturesque in its appearance. Before us was the cocoa-nut grove of Waikiki, the Brighton of the island, whose little thatched cottages looked very cool and pleasant under the tall palms. Green and wooded hills formed a fitting back-ground to the scene, and contrasted with the foaming waves, which fretted and chafed against the outlying coral reef.

On our left, the town of Honolulu was the most attractive feature of the scene. Lying at the foot of a steep and furrowed crater — called the Punch-bowl — and deeply embowered in foliage, it is difficult at first to make out where the town is ; but a massive stone church, and a few roofs, in leafy settings, soon point out the locality. It is not until you have made your way into the harbour, through the narrow entrance of the reef, that you can form any idea of the size of the town, or of the beauty of its surroundings. Then you see a broad plain, backed by mountains, through which runs a fertile valley, dotted with white houses, that decrease in number as they retire from the neighbourhood of spires and flagstaffs. Of the latter, I believe there are more in Honolulu than in any place in the world of the same size. The foreground is occupied by a smooth, rather shallow-looking harbour, enlivened by two men-of-war, and a larger amount of shipping than one would have expected to find in so tiny a capital.

In the meantime the pilot had boarded us, and the listless enjoyment of our sea days was now over. Kindly invitations for visits to be paid at some future day were given by those who were on their way to New Zealand or Australia, and who then little thought that their next landing-place would be on a Fijian reef. People who had hardly exchanged a word during the voyage, began to feel that they might have made pleasant friendships, while others who had chummed with everybody, rather regretted their hasty confidences ; but all seemed sorry to think that the happy life on board would soon be a thing of the past. Stewards, especially those who had neglected us hitherto, now vied with one another in conferring useless favours, and hoped that we would be passengers in their ship on the return voyage ; stewards on board ship, and porters on land, are all imbued with the same instinctive feelings of regard for passengers at the last moment. Amidst a general farewell we landed at the wharf, only to receive a cordial welcome from friends to their island home. As the arrival of a steamer is not an every day occurrence at

Landing at Honolulu. 7

Honolulu, the wharf was crowded with spectators, anxious to see the new comers ; and for a retiring individual the landing must be almost as painful as it is at Folkestone and Dover when the steamer arrives from France. Carriages, express-waggons, fruit-sellers, men and women on horseback, the latter in the brightest of colours, and adorned with floating garlands of green leaves and flowers, were all mixed together, and as all were talking at the top of their voices, and in the shrillest of tones, the scene was most picturesque and animated.

There was a good sprinkling of white faces in the crowd, but the prevailing colour was certainly brown. There were dark-eyed, laughing girls, with yellow and scarlet flowers twined in their black hair ; swarthy youths, shining with cocoa-nut oil, and arrayed in cast-off* naval uniforms, also with gay flowers and wreaths decking their heads and necks ; native dandies in all the pride of tall hats and spectacles ; and stately matrons, well up to the Hawaiian standard of beauty — fatness — and all apparently glad to see the foreigners, as the latter were to see them.

It was dark when we drove up to the hotel, but we knew that we passed under tall, shady trees, and drew up at some steps leading to cool, spacious verandahs and fresh, airy rooms ; and, in fact, as we afterwards discovered, we were in a first-class hotel, when we had only expected to find moderately comfortable lodgings. Up the pillars of the verandah, and round the eaves, scrambled beautiful plants of the passionflower and other creepers, whilst the garden was full of many rare trees, shrubs, and flowers.

I did not manage to get much sleep that night, as, irrespective of two or three mosquitoes which sneaked in under my netting, there was a good deal to think of and to keep one awake, for we had arrived at a very exciting time. Both a funeral and an election were in prospect — not everyday affairs — for the funeral was that of a king, and the election was that of his successor, Lunalilo having lately died, and the throne of Hawaii being vacant.

Chapter II

GREETINGS— WALK BEFORE BREAKFAST— ASPECT OF HONOLULU— THE NATIVES — DRESS— THE PALACE— NATIVE CHURCH— ENGLISH CHURCH— TRADITIONS— HAWAIIAN HISTORY— THE TABOO— RANK —THE CONSTITUTION— CLAIMANTS FOR THE CROWN.

HE first and most noisy salutation was given at 1.15 a.m, and the second at 5 a.m, and after constant observation I found that these were the hours invariably chosen by the poultry of Oahu to make night hideous. Oriental gallinae have the same absurd habit ; but I fancied it was an old Eastern custom, and was disagreeably surprised to find it in all its integrity in a small island in the North Pacific. Besides, although the cock, as a conscientious bird, feels compelled to warn workmen of the hour, yet, as a rule, one cock is sufficient to arouse twenty workmen, whereas in Honolulu there cannot be less than one workman to twenty cocks. If one bird chooses to make a mistake about the hour, it is no reason why all the rest should contradict him, and raise endless discussions. However, a glorious tub, and a walk in the fresh morning air, made amends for trifling discomforts; and by breakfast time I had alreadymade the acquaintance of many of the beauties of the town.

Honolulu is a quaint, charming little spot, like a slice of Southern Europe in a tropical setting. Here are two-storied houses, with deep verandahs and porticoes, standing in detached gardens, filled with brilliant flowers and blossoming shrubs. There are white dusky streets, shaded by all sorts of tropical trees ; green lawns and cocoa-nut palms ; old walls covered with magenta-hued bougainvillias, which outshone the more delicate colours of heliotropes, fuchsias, and geraniums, and the wax-like blossoms of the mami-apple-tree. A church-spire is occasionally seen peeping out of a grove of mango, tamarind, and indiarubber-trees. The scene altogether is very neat, trim, and orderly ; the great drawback being that there is not enough of it.

The island is not the Paradise of liberty that it was a century ago, when the first travellers were welcomed by splendid half-nude girls, who came in all innocence to welcome the strangers with fruits, flowers, and dances. Now the missionaries have changed their morals and their costume, at all events the latter, for they dress — at least many do — in Manchester fashions a few years behind the time ; they carry umbrellas, and the men wear paper collars. Most of the Hawaiian women, however, wear only a long loose garment, like a night-gown, falling to the feet, without being con-

Haivaiian Men and Women. 11

fined at the waist, and it must be confessed that this robe is very becoming to their dusky beauty. Of course this sun-kissed race has a great fondness for colours and finery, and the effect of the graceful "holuku" is often spoilt by a once fashionable bonnet, trimmed with a profusion of flowers, feathers, and faded ribbons. Tawdry jewelry, of the pinchbeck order, is, alas, much admired ; and the fresh flower necklace is often supplemented by a string of glass beads, and lockets, and brooches of false stones ; of which style of jewelry America exports to these islands about seven or eight thousand dollars' worth annually.

They are not pretty, these Hawaiian women — not many of them, at all events — but they have soft, gentle, dark eyes, and beautifully shaped little brown hands and feet. They are a well-formed race, and evidently take pride in their personal appearance. The men dress usually in the European style ; but a snow-white shirt often does duty for coat and waistcoat, and as this is invariably ornamented with a long green wreath, their appearance is sufficiently picturesque.

At a hundred yards or so from the hotel stands the palace — a very unpretending building, enclosed by a high coral wall. Ugly wooden gates — of which there are three — lead into the grounds, and as on the occasion on which I saw them they were each draped in black, and guarded by a very unhappy-looking native sentry in the saddest of uniforms, the general appearance was melancholy.

A short distance beyond stands the native stone church, in a grove of feathery algeroba trees. It is a large building, and is regarded by the Hawaiians with much pride ; and with good reason, for it is a monument of their perseverance and liberality, and a record of what can be accomplished by a poor nation, whose heart is in the work which they have determined to complete. The entire cost was about thirty thousand dollars, and this sum was raised by voluntary contributions. Native workmen gave their time and labour without pay ; stone was cut from the surrounding reef; timber was brought by hand from the mountains ; glass was imported ; and after five years' incessant toil the church was dedicated. The corner-stone was laid in 1838 — less than twenty-five years after the Islanders had first heard of the Bible.

The zeal exhibited in the building of this church offers a striking contrast to that shown by a more civilized people at the present day. In the precincts of the present small English church at Honolulu may be seen the commencement of what, years and years ago, was intended to be the Cathedral. The ground plan may be traced by moss-covered stones some inches in height. The greater part of the requisites for building purposes is, I believe, in bond at Honolulu, and, as far as I can ascertain, likely to remain there.

Josh Billing says very truly, " Mi private opinyun is — that virtew is better than gold, but i also hav bin told that 10 dollars in gold will go farther towards bilding a church, than all the piety ov Moses."

On returning to the hotel I found I had only just

Hawaiian Traditions. 13

time for a hurried breakfast, as we — Major Wodehouse, H.B.M.'s Commissioner-General, and myself — had to start at once to the " House/' to witness the election of a sovereign. Before proceeding with our account of the events of that day, it may be useful to give a general idea of the history of the Hawaiian nation from the reign of Kamehameha I., and a short description of the government, in order the better to understand the present peculiar state of affairs.

Tradition, songs, conjecture and priestly invention alone tell the story of the Hawaiian people up to the commencement of the present century. Family, as well as national, history was handed down from generation to generation by word of mouth, and there are still living old women who will drone out to you ancient tales dating as far back as the deluge ; for the Hawaiians have their deluge as well as we have ours. Their tradition is that the large island of Hawaii was produced by the bursting of an egg which had been laid on the water by a bird of great size 5 and that there was no other land. Did not the instinct of our own forefathers, too, give utterance to this oracle : " Everything springs from the egg ; it is the world's cradle ?"

The Hawaiians also have a legend that the sun was once held in his course by the god Maui, in order that his wife might finish her work before dark. They likewise have their " pool of Siloam," called " Wai-olaloa " — the waters of enduring life — by bathing in which the diseased, aged, and ugly were restored to health, youth, and beauty.