Peru - Incidents of Travel and Exploration in the Land of the Incas

Front matter

UNIVERSITY OE PITTSBURGH

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Chapter I. Introductory

Mr. Prescott on the Inca Monuments.—Influence of his Words.—The Author’s Aspirations and Purposes.—Threatened with Blindness.—Appointed United States Commissioner to Peru.—Restoration to Sight.—Commencement of Explorations. —Extent of the Region explored.—Plans, Drawings, and Photographs.—Value of the Material secured.—General Survey of the Inca Empire.—Its Boundaries.— Physical Characteristics.—Lake and River Systems. — Mountain Ranges.—The Coast Desert.—Fertile Valleys.—The Inhabitants of the Valleys.—The Cordillera. — The Despoblado.—Distinction between the Cordillera and the Andes.—The Basin of Titicaca.—Only two other Similar Basins in America.—Lake Aullagas.— Lake Titicaca.—Its Sacred Islands.—The Bolsoncs , or Valleys.—The Bohon of Cuzco.—The Montana.—The Incas and the Peoples of the Montana.—Probable Population of the Inca Empire.—Divisions of the Ancient Inhabitants of Peru.— Their Character and Institutions determined by Physical Conditions.—Design of this Work.Page 1

Chapter II. New York To Lima

New York to Panama.—The Remains of George R. Gliddon.—The Bay of Panama. —Embarking for Peru.—The Island of Taboga.—Under Way.—The British Steam¬ ship Company.—Dead Mau’s Island.—The Island of Puna.—The Gulf and City of Guayaquil.—Balsas.—Pine-apples.—The Rio Guayas.—Las Bodegas.—Along the Coast.—Paita.—Arrival at Callao.—Disembarking.—The Harbor.—Sea-lions. —Aspect of the Town.—The Plaza.—Merchandise.—Loungers and Lazy Officials. —Hotel de la Marina.—The Road to Lima.—First Impressions of the City.—The Hotel Morin.—New Quarters.17

Chapter III. Lima-the City Of The Kings

The City of the Kings.—Its Foundation and Aims.—Early Civil and Ecclesiastical Supremacy.—Historical Reminiscences.—Ancient and Modern Sources of Wealth.

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CONTEXTS.

— Geographical Position. — Climate and Temperature.—Fogs and Mists.—Topo¬ graphical Situation. — Prevailing Winds. —Health.—Origin of the Name of Lima. — The Walls. — Municipal Divisions. — Population. — The Hirer Rimae. — The Bridge. — Style of Architecture. — Mode of Erection.—Balconies, Courts, and Roofs.—Poultry and Buzzards. —Furniture and Pictures.—The Governor’s Pal¬ ace. — Peruvian Soldiers. — The Cabildo and other Public Buildings.—The Cathe¬ dral. — Other Churches. — The Plaza Mayor.—The Arcades.—Fountain, with Statue of Fame.—The Plaza de la Constitucion and Equestrian Statue of Bolivar.—The Pasco of the Barefoot Friars. — The Alameda de Acho.—Monument to Columbus. — Public Institutions. — The General Cemetery.—Flower Gardens.—The Feast of Roses.—Amusements. —Lima under the Viceroys.—Improvements since the In¬ dependence. —The Central Market.—Varieties of Fruits.—Fish.—Meats.—The Abattoir.—Poultry.—Cookery. —Puehero.—Chupc.—Picantes of various Kinds.— Other Dishes.—Dulces. — : Dietetie Maxims.—A Dinner with a Hidalgo.—A Diplo¬ matic Diuner. . .... Page 34

Chapter IV. J’acii Aoamac

Visit to the Ruins.—The Ancient Sacred City.—Pachaeamac.—Miguel Estete’s Ac¬ count of the Famous Shrine.—The Spoils taken by the Spaniards.—Sugar Estate of San Pedro.—Condors. —Present Aspect of Pachaeamac.—El Castillo.—Mamacuna.—The Arch. —A Vast Burial-place.—Mummies.—Ancient Tenement-house. —The Family Tomb.—The Bodies.—Articles found with them.—Tweezers.— Blanket.—Shroud. —Spindle.—Wallet.—Girl’s Work-box, and Contents.—Boy’s Sling.—Dried Parrot.—Child’s Rattle.—Vases and Pottery.62

Chapter V. Ruins Tn The Vicinity Of Lima

The Valley of Cafiete and its Ruins.— The Palace of El Rey Inca.—Ruins of Hervai. —Temple at Magdalena.—Limatambo.— Ruins in the Valley of the Chillon.— Burial-places of the Ancient Poor. — Relics found in Graves. — Ruins of Cajamarquilla.—Exploring and Surveying.— Meet the Robber, Rossi Arci.—His Subse¬ quent Fate. 82

Chapter VI. Ci’ The Coast To Tkuxilt.o

Starting for Paita.—Tin' Rocky Coast. — Sea-lions. — The Oasis and Port of Iluacho. — The Town.—Rock-salt.— How it is formed. — Supc and Patavilca.—The Rio de la Barranca.—Ruins of Paramanea.— Traditions. — Ancient Works on La Korea. — Iluarrnoy or Guarmey. — Casma.—Bays of Simaneo and Ferrol.—The Valley of Chirnboto. — Ancient Monuments.—Silver Mine of Micate. — Port of Santa.—The Bio Santa. — Ridge crowned with Ruins. — Huaca near Santa. — Ride to Santa.— The City. — Guano Islands of Guaiiape.— Eagles, Pelicans, and Vultures.—Port of

Contents

IX

Iluanchaco.—Singular Craft.—Sardinas.—“Getting ashore.—The Prefect of Truxillo.—Departure for Truxillo.—The Grand Chimu.—Beautiful Lizards.—Entrance to Truxillo..Page 98

Chapter VII. Truxillo—reconnoissance Of Grand Ciiimu

Truxillo. — Hotel del Comercio. — The Chinese Fonda. — Churches, Convents, and Public Buildings.—Colonel La Rosa.—His Collections of Antiques..— Supposes the Author to be in Search of Hidden Treasure.—Reconnoissance of Chimu.— Hamlet of Miraflores.—The Great Aqueduct.—General Survey of the Ruins.— The Huacas, Walls, and Gardens.—Girls’ Tombs without the Walls.—Azequias. —Remains of a Village of the Excavators of El Obispo;—How the Huaca was built.—A Solitary Scorpion.—Almost under Arrest;—Unearthed Palace.— The Royal Tombs-.— El Castillo.— The Dead of a Great Battle.— Skulls of Various Races.—Cemetery of Girls.—The Prison.—Huaca of Toledo.—Miles of Graves. —The Watering-place of Huaman.—Return to Truxillo.—Photographic Annoy- » auces.114

Chapter VIII. The Ruins At Mociie

Ride to Mochc.—Diminished Area of Cultivation.—Alleged Effects of Earthquakes. —Incident on the Rio Moche.—The Indian Pueblo.—The Gobernador.—Many¬ horned Sheep.—The Ladies of the Family.—Primitive Spinning Apparatus.—The Church.—Reception by the Cura.—Present and Past Condition of his Flock.— Ruined by having the Right of Suffrage.—The Cura’s Lamentations.—Ilis Opin¬ ion upon Treasure-hunting.—Offers to guide us to the Ruins.—The Ride.—Tem¬ ple of the Sun.—View from the Summit.—The Great Pyramid.—Farewell to the Cura.—Subsequent Exploration of the Pyramid.—Its Form and Dimensions.— Alleged Secret Passages.—A Modern Adit.—Probable Purpose of the Structure. —Visit to the Prefect of Truxillo.—His Magnificent Mansion.—His Want of Hos¬ pitality.125

Chapter IX. Explorations At Grand Ciiimu

Ride to the Ruins.—Hall of the Arabesques.—The First Corridor.—Figures in Stuc¬ co.— The Second Corridor.—Vaults and Store-rooms. — Cotton Mattresses.—An Upper Edifice.—Walls, Passages, and Chambers. — The Furnace.—Vessels of Gold and Silver. — Many Relics melted down. — Prospects left for Research.— Conjectural Features of the Structure. — Exterior Walls probably Decorated.

CONTENTS.

X

— The Destruction bv Treasure-hunters. — The Necropolis of Chirnu. — Niches with Human Remains. — Fine Cloths of Cotton aud Alpaca Wool.—Silver Oruaments attached to Fabrics.—Decorated Skulls. — A Mysterious Structure.— Covered Tomb. — Our Way of Life at Chimu. — Plans for the Future. — Ruins Described by Rivero and Tschudi. — The “First Palace.” — Ornamented Court and Hall.—Forms of Ornamentation.—The Great Reservoir.—El Presidio, or the Prison.—An Evidence of Former Civilization.—The “ Second Palace.”—Huaca of Misa. — Barrios, or Wards. — Sub - barrios. — The Cabildo, or Municipal House.—Dwellings of the People.—Other Squares.—Reservoirs and Gardens.— Huacas of Las Conchas and Toledo.—Ancient Smelting-works. — Evidences of Trade Localities.Page 135

Chapter X. Legendary History Of The Ciiimus

Accounts by Feijoo and Garcilasso de la Vega: Extent of their Territory.—Their Chief, Chimu-Canchu. —The Invasion by the Inca Yupanqui.—Stubborn Resist¬ ance. —Final Submission of Chimu-Canchu.—Beneficent Measures of the Inca.— Relation by Montesinos: The Inca Empire threatened by the Chimus.—Wars be¬ tween the Chimus and Incas, from the Eleventh to the Twenty-fifth.—The Chimus conquered by Topa- Yupanqui, the Ninety-seventh Inca.—Relation by Balboa: War between the Inca Capac- Yupanqui and Chimu-Capac.—The Chimus subjugated by Topa-Inca.—The Account by Dc Leon.—Different Customs and Dialects among the Chimus. — Some Legends of their own Origin.—The Idol Llampallec at Chot.— Its Removal, and the Consequences.—Accession of Chimu-Capac, who was con¬ quered by the Incas.—The Ancient Language of the Chimus still spoken at Etcng. —Different from the Quichua and that of the Incas.165

Chapter XI. The Art, Customs, And Religion Of The Ciiimus

Skill of the Chimu Artificers.— Their Productions easily Recognized.—Their Conven¬ tional Symbols.— Animals, Birds, aud Reptiles. — The Lance as an Emblem of Royalty.—Vases and other Works in Gold and Silver.—Groups of Figures.— Some Remarkable Examples. — Implements and Weapons.—Their Chief Excel¬ lence in Pottery.— Various Forms of Vases and other Vessels.—Ornamentation of these.—Pictures on Pottery.—Musical Instruments and Performers.—Repre¬ sentations of the Human Head. — Of Animals and Fruit.—Sacred Character of their Ceramic Art.—The Best Source of our Knowledge of their Religion.—Sym¬ bolical Character of their Religion. — The Symbols of the Four Elements.—A De¬ basing Fetichism coincident with their Purer Religion.—Padre Arriaga’s Book on the Extirpation of the Idolatry of Peru. — Ilis Account of their Various Supersti¬ tions.—Their Village, Household, and Personal Idols. — Worship of Ancestors.— Results of Arriaga’s Elforts to extirpate Idolatry. — The Purer Religion of the Chimus.—Worship of the Original, Pure, Incorporeal Being.17u

CONTENTS.

XI

Chapter XII. Explorations Near The Coast

Farewell to Cliimu.— Voyage down the Coast.— Landing at Samanco.— A Day and a Night there.— Set out for the Estate San Jacinto.—Curious Megalithie Rock. —Ruins of Huacatambo.—The Fortaleza de Tierra Firme.—Rich Vineyards.— The Huaca de la Culebra.—Sun-worship and Serpent-worship.—Arrival at San Jacinto.—The Hacienda.—A Renovated Estate on the Verge of the Desert.— Ancient Ruins.—Lines of Walls on the Mountain Side.—Ancient and Modern Ir¬ rigation.—Cultivation of Cotton.—A Mountain Ride.—El Palaeio del Padrejon. —The Village of Mora.—Estate of Motocache.—Four Terraced Pyramids.—An¬ other Stone Work.—Vases in the Walls.—Return to San Jacinto.—A Midnight Adventure.—Voyage resumed.—Coast Ruins.—Calaveras or Chancayillo.—For¬ tress of Quisque.—Pyramidal Structure in the Valley of Santa.—Ruins of Alpacote.—Ancient Works at Huanueo, as described by Raimondi.—Ancient Irriga¬ tion on the Coast.Page 193

Chapter XIII. From Lima To Tacna

Start for Explorations Southward.—Voyage along the Coast.—Islay the Port of Arequipa.—Arequipa and the Earthquake of 1868.—Author’s Experiences of Earthquakes in Peru.—Ariea the Port of Tacna.—The Earthquake at Arica.— A Peruvian Railway.—Tacna.—Its Architecture and Trade.—The Alameda.— The Bola de Oro.—Preparations for a Journey among the Andes.—Berrios, our Muleteer.—On the Way.—About Mules.221

CHAPTER XIY.

OVER THE CORDILLERA TO TIAHUANUCO.

Equipped for the Journey. — The Tambo at Pachia. — Chupe. — The Quebrada de Palca.—Palca.—Mule Travelling among the Mountains.—Chulpas.—An Aymara Skull.—The Soroche.— Climbing the Crest. — La Portada. — Llamas.—The Alps and the Andes.—Tambos.—The Pass of Guaylillos.—Effects of the Soroche.—The Rio de Azufre.—Veruga Water.—The Peak of Tacora.—Shot at a Vicuna.—The Tambo of Tacora.—A Hospitable Host.—La Laguna Blanca.—The Divide between the Basin of Lake Titicaca and the Pacific.—In the Despoblado.—The Rio Cuno, the Boundary between Peru and Bolivia.—The Biscacha.—The Rio Maure.—Al¬ pacas.—The Pass of Chuluncayani.—An Expensive Hotel.—Descending the Slope. —First Signs of Cultivation.—A Cretin.—Santiago de Machaea. — The Aymara Hat.—A Solitary Church.—Shot at a Condor.—St. Andres de Machaea.—The Gobernador and the Cura.—Fine Church.—Nasacara and its Floating Bridge.—Tin*

CONTENTS.

xii

Rio Desaguadero.—Our Rascally Berrios.—Jesus de Machaca and its good Cura. — The Crown of the Andes. —First View of Lake Titicaca.—Magnificent Panora¬ ma. — Descent to the Plain.—Tiahuanueo.—The Drunken Cura.—Supposed to be a Treasure-hunter .Page 238

Chapter XV. Tia1iuaxuco, The Baalbec Of The New World

Tiahuanueo a Centre of Ancient Civilization.—Difficulties.—The Chufio Festival.— Death of my Photographer.—Studying the Art.—My Assistants.—The Edifices of Ancient Tiahuanueo. —The Ruins a Quarry for Modern Builders.—Their Extent. —The Temple.— The Fortress.—The Palace.—The Hall of Justice.—Precision of the Stone-cutting. —Elaborate Sculptures.—Monolithic Gate-ways.—The Modern Cemetery. — The Sanctuary. —Symbolical Slab.—The great Monolithic Gate-way. — Its Elaborate Sculptures.—Monuments described by Cieza de Leon and D’Orbigny. — Material of the Stone-work. — How the Stone was cut.—General Resume. —Tiahuanueo probably a Sanctuary, not a Seat of Dominion . 272

CHAPTER XYI.

AT TTAIU'AXUCO, AND TO THE SACKED ISLANDS.

Suspected of Treasure-hunting.— The Guardian of the Tapadas.—The Potato-feast and Corpus Christi. —The Indian Celebration.—Music, Dancing, and Costumes.— Departure from Tiahuanueo.—Village of Guaque.—Cattle feeding in the Lake.— Tortora Bridge over the Outlet of the Lake.—Entry into the Village of Desagua¬ dero.—A Convivial Cura.— Hospitalities of the Caballeros and Seuoritas.—Mine Host the Comandante. — Zepita. — Scenes on the Road. — Comparatively Fertile Region.—Village of Yunguyo. — A Pressing Invitation.—A Dinner Compliment. —A Legal Luminary. 302

Chapter XVII. Tiie Sacred Islands Of Titicaca

Copaeahana.— Its Famous Shrine.—Saluted as Viraeocha.—The Church of La Sefiora de Copacabana. —The Camarin. — Votive Offerings. — A Pilgrimess from Spain. — The Statue of La Sefiora.—An Idol of Blue Stone formerly worshipped here.— The Fountain of the Inca. — The Ladera. — Yampapata.—Waiting for a Balsa.—Night in a Tambo. — Balsa Voyage. — Description of the Lake.—The Sa¬ cred Island of Titicaca.— Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo here began their Mis¬ sion.—The Sacred Grain.— Etymology of the Name Titicaca. — Ruins of the Tem¬ ple, Convent, and Palace.— The Island of Coati.—The Island of Soto, or of Peni¬ tence. — Landing on Titicaca.— Ascending the Terraces.— The Sacred Rock of Manco Capac. — Landing-place of the Ineas. — Alleged Triune Statue. — The Laby¬ rinth. — Night at the llaeicndu. — St. John’s Fires. — The Garden of the Incas.— The Bath of the Incas. — The Palace of the Inca . 317

CONTENTS.

xiii

Chapter XVIII. Detour To Puno

Return to Copacabana.—Set out for Puno.—Views by the Way.—The Towns and their Inhabitants.—Resting-place of the Inca.—Ancient Sepulchres at Acora.— Chulpas, or Burial-towers.—Arrival at Puno.—Welcome by an American Mer¬ chant.— Lofty Situation of Puno. — Its Modern Origin. — Neighboring Silver Mines.—Story of Jose de Salcedo.—The Wool-trade of Puno.—Aspect of the Town.—Preparations for revisiting the Sacred Islands and exploring the Lake. —Our Altered and Improvised Craft.—Voyage on the Lake.—Night on the Isl¬ and of Titicaca.—Sail to the Island of Coati.Page 347

Chapter XIX. The Sacred Island Of Co Ati, And Revisit To Titicaca

The Island of Coati, Sacred to the Moon.—Small, but Fertile.—The two Groups of Ruins.—The Gates of Purification.—Remains of Tambos.—The so-called Palace of the Sun probably the Temple of the Moon.—The Shrine of Coati.—Situation and Structure.—Interior Construction.—Curious Apartments.—Court or Corral for the Sacred Llamas and Vicunas.—Platforms and Terraces. — Magnificent View.—Origin of the Structures.—Derivation of the Name of the Island.—Priests and Vestals.—An Accident.—Titicaca revisited.—Search for the Temple of the Sun.—Statements of the Chroniclers.—Identification of the Ruins.—Places where the Sun was tied up.—A Lofty Terraced Promontory.—View from its Summit.— The Hamlet of Challa.—Real Historical Importance of the Island of Titicaca.— Date and Origin of its Structures.—Embark for Puno.—A Stormy Voyage.—Put in at Escoma.—Ruins here.—Becalmed on the Lake.—Reach Puno.350

Chapter XX. Sillustani-its Chulpas And Sun-cikcles

•

Lake Umayo.—The Town of Vilque.—Ruins of a Temple.—Sillustani.—Numerous Chulpas.—A Round Chulpa.—Its Construction and Arrangement.—Manner in which the Stones were raised.—A Broken Chulpa at Sillustani.—Chulpas and the Topes of Ceylon.—The Stones cut to Plan before being placed in Position.— Sun-circles.—A Submerged Town and Palace. — Hatuncolla.— Hill-fortress of Quellenata. — Chulpa at Ullulloma compared with Pelasgic Tower in Italy.— Square Chulpas in Bolivia.—The Chulpas evidently Tombs.—Las Casas’ Account of Peruvian Modes of Burial.—The Region in which they are found.—Aymara, not Quichua Structures.37fi

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXL

FROM LAKE TITICACA TO CUZCO.

Shores of Lake Titicaca.—Iluancanc. —Quellenata.—Sondor-liuasi.—Thatched Roofs. —Santa Rosa. —A Bull-fight.— A Condor introduced.—Attempt to send two Birds of this Species to the Coast. —Pedro Lobo’s Correspondence.—Bleak Mountain Gorges. — Tnnibos.—The Pass of La Raya.—Descending the Mountains.—The Aguas Calientes.—The Valley of the Vilcanota.—Caclia and the Temple of Yiraeoeha.—Garcilasso's Account of the Inca Viraeoehn.—Apparition of the Spirit of Viracocha to him.— Ilis Miraculous Victory over the Chinchasuyas. — He erects the Temple.—Garcilasso’s Account of the Temple and Statue.—Present Condition. —Dependent Structures.— Modern Potteries among the Ruins.—Gables and Win¬ dows in Inca Architecture.—Error of Humboldt and Prescott.—Niches.—Ety¬ mology of the Name Viracocha.—Tupac Amaru.—Quijijana. — Curious Ruins and Tombs. — Ureos. —The Bolson of Andahuaylillas.—Huayna Capae’s Gold Chain.— A Night on Andahuaylillas.—The Inca Quarries.—Method of Quarrying.—The Fortress of Pirpiillacta.—Ruins of the Inca Town of Muyna.—The Llautu or Inearial Badge. — Muyna, an Ancient Walled Town. — Oropesa. — The Angostura Pass.—San Sebastian, with its People of the Avllos, or Inca, Stock.Page 390

Chapter XXII. Cuzco, The City Of The Sun

Signification of its Name. — Its Situation. — Climate. — Historical Importance. — An¬ cient Divisions. — The Hill of Saesahuaman. — Its Principal Structures. — The Huacapata, or Great Square. — Terraces.—Cyclopean Walls.—The Stone of the Twelve Angles.— Style of Public Buildings.—Perfection of the Stone-cutting.— Error of Prescott.— Houses of more than One Story.—The Temple of the Sun, and Subsidiary Edifices.— Its Site now occupied by the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo.— The Field and Gardens of the Sun.—The Water Supply.—Pro¬ fusion of Golden Decorations. — The House of the Virgins of the Sun. — The Place of Serpents and Palace of Huayna Capac.—The Palace of the Yupanquis.—An¬ cient Walls incorporated into Modern Buildings.—System of Palace-building by the Incas.—Schools.— Galponcs. — The Public Square. — The City commanded by the Fortress of Saesahuaman.— The Terrace of the Granaries, and Palace of the First Inca.—Honors to Agriculture. — Probable Population of Ancient Cuzco. —Its General Aspect.— Modern Cuzco. — Moorish Style of Buildings. — The Cathe¬ dral and Church of La Merced. — Cuzco superseded in Importance by Lima.—At present little known by Peruvians. — Population mostly Indians. — The White Inhabitants.—The Old Families.— Sonora Zentino and her Museum of Antiqui¬ ties.—Notice; of Lorenzo St. Oriq, alias “Paul Murcoy.” — An ancient Trepanned Skull.—Paucity of Sculptures in Peru. — The Alameda. — The Panteon, or Cem¬ etery.—Pablo Biliaca.—Processions and Cock-fighting. — The Dog Laws. .. . 42b

CONTENTS.

XV

Chapter XXIII

S ACS All U AM AN, TIIE ANCIENT FOKTRESS OF CUZCO.

Import of the Name.—Situation of the Fortress.—The Ravine of the Rodadero.— Aqueduct and Water-falls.—The Gate of Sand.—The Rock Rodadero.—Char¬ acter of the Rock.—Garcilasso’s Description of the Fortress.—Plan of its Con¬ struction.— System of Drainage. — Immense Stones. — Entrances. — The Round Building, and other Subsidiary Works.—Mistake of Prescott.—How the Stones were moved. — The Piedra Cansada, or Tired Stone. — El Rodadero, and Von Tschudi’s Error in respect to It.—The Seat of the Inca.—Curiously carved Stones. —Rock Seats.—Chingana, or the Labyrinth.—Contrasts between Sacsahuaman and the so-called Fortress at Tiahuanuco.—Date of the Construction of Sacsahua¬ man.—Modern Cuzco mostly built of its Materials.—Lamentation of a Descend¬ ant of the Incas over its Destruction.—Treasure-hunters and their Traditions.— Legend of Dona Maria de Esquivel.Page 464

Chapter XXIV. Tiie Valley Of Yucay.-ollantaytambo

The Yueay the Parent Stream of the Amazon.—The Valley of Yucay.—Roads lead¬ ing to It.—Chinehero and its Ruins.—The Table-land.—View of the Valley of Yucay.—Climate of the Valley.—The Andencs, or Gardens of the Incas.—Their Summer Palace.—Urubamba.—The Hacienda Urneres.—Ride to Ollantaytambo. —Ancient Cliff Cemetery.—The Bolson of Antis.—Ancient Fortifications.—The Governor of Ollantaytambo.—Village of Ollantaytambo.—The Ancient Fortress. —Porphyry Slabs.—The Tired Stones.—View from the Fortress.—The Hill of Flutes. — The School of the Virgins. — The Ilorca del Hombre and Horca de Mujer.—Inca Houses in the Village.—Plan of the Ancient Town.—The Present Inhabitants.—Ride to the Quarries.—Mimbres, or Suspension Bridges.—Perilous Travelling.—The Mountain Road.—Diminutive Shrines.—The Quarries.—Ollan¬ taytambo a Frontier Town.—The Legend of Ollantay.482

Chapter XXV. Tiie Valley Of Yucay.-pisac

Excursion to Pisac.—The Sacred Rock at Calca.—The Circular Building.—Serpen¬ tine Channel in the Rock.—Its Design.—Worship of Isolated Rocks.—The Boun¬ dary of the Inca Dominion.—The Great Frontier Fortress of Pisac.—Its Com¬ manding Position.—The Approaches to it.—The Inti-huatana, or Solstitial Tur¬ ret, the best preserved in Peru.—Other Inti-huatanas.—Garcilasso’s Account of them.—Ascent to the Fortress of Pisac.—Complex and Elaborate Character of the Works.—Auxiliary Fortifications.—The Burial-place.—Desiccated Corpses.— Character of Peruvian Defensive Works.517

XVI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXYI.

OVER TIIE CORDILLERA, FROM CUZCO TO THE COAST.

Departure from Cuzco. — Our two Extra Horses, El Nevado and Napoleon.— The Plain and Town of Anta.— Surita, and its Post-keeper.— Limatambo, and its Ruins. — Mollepata. —Guarding our Animals by Night.—Mountain Paths.—Perils of the Road. — Approach to La Banca.—An Aqueduct built upon Arches.—Drunk¬ enness and Goitres.— The Hacienda of Bellavista.—Waiting for Mules.—The Ar¬ tist is afraid to cross the Hanging Bridge over the Apurimac.—La Banea again. — More Delays about Mules. — Gesticulating with the Lips.—Our Artist separates from us. — The Ancient Inca Roads.—Exaggerated Accounts of them.—They must have followed the Present Lines of Travel.—Character of the Road from Cuzco to the Valley of Yueay. —Obstacles to Travel among the Cordilleras^—The Rivers.—Few Stone Bridges.—Hanging Bridges of Withes.—Present Mode of Construction and Maintenance.—The Great Hanging Bridge over the Apurimac.— The Approach to it. — Its True Dimensions.—Crossing it.—The Tunnel Beyond.— Meeting a Mule-train. —Curahuasi.—A Strange Visitor.—Searching for the Artist. —Ultimate Tidings of his Fate.—Abancay.—Sculptured Rock at Concacha.— Inta-huatana near Abaneay.—Stone Bridge over the Paehachaca.—Andahuaylas. —Talavera.— Moyobamba. — A Stormy Ride.—Chinchero.—Hanging Bridge over the Rio Pampas.—Ocras. —Ayaeueho, formerly Guamanga.—Scene of an Impor¬ tant Battle, December 9th, 1624.—Reported Subterranean Palace, with Statues, at Guinoa. —The Cordillera de la Costa.—Through the Despoblado.—A Five Days’ Ride. — Lose our Horses.—A Perilous Night Adventure.—The Posada of San An¬ tonio. — First Sight of the Pacific.—Descent to the Coast.—Arrival at Pisco.— Homeward-bound from Lima . Page 533

Conclusion

Inca Civilization.—The People, as found by the Spaniards.—Rapidity of their Con¬ quest.— The Civilization of Peru Indigenous.— Nature of Inca Superiority.— Originally Several Tribes.— Quichuas and Aymaras.—Differences not solely owing to Physical Conditions.— Probable Course of Union and Development.—Growth of Separate Historical Legends, merging into each other.—Legends as transmitted by Gareilasso and Montesinos.— How the Traditions were perpetuated.—Their Quippus very Imperfect Means of Record. — Consequent Importance of the Monu¬ ments.—What we may learn from them. — Probable Course of the Inca Empire, without the Spanish Conquest.— Date of Peruvian Monuments wholly Uncertain. —Some of them among the Oldest existing.— Reasons why they are not more Nu¬ merous.—No Evidence that the Peruvians came originally from Abroad. .. . 568

APPENDIX.577

INDEX. .589

ILLUSTRATIONS

Page

Gate-way and Valley of Ollantaytam-

Map of Peru, indicating the Route of

the Author. .faces 17

The Rampart, Panama. 18

City and Bay of Panama. 20

Las Bodegas, Guayas River. 25

Interior Court, Lima. 44

Peruvian Infantry and Cavalry. 47

Interior of the Chapel of the Ceme¬ tery, Lima. 52

View in the Cemetery, Lima. 58

Hut on the Estate of San Pedro.... 66

Shot at a Condor. 67

View at Pachacamac. 68

Plan of Temple of Pachacamac. 69

Plan of Mamacuna, Pachacamac. ... 70

Niche in the Wall, Pachacamac .... 71

Arch at Pachacamac. 71

Peruvian Mummies. 73

Plan of the Tenement. 74

Peruvian Tweezers. 75

Pattern of Alpaca Blanket. 75

Pattern of Cotton Shroud. 76

Ancient Spindle. 77

Wallet, folded. 77

Wallet, unfolded. 77

Spool of Thread. 7S

Knitting Utensils. 78

Skein of Thread. 79

Toilet Articles.. 79

Netting Instrument. 79

Dried Parrot. 80

Boy’s Sling. 80

Infant’s Burial-net. 80

Pottery from Pachacamac. 81

Palacio del Rey Inca,Valley of Caiietc 83 Ruins of Hervai, Valley of Canete... 84

Page

Demolishing Huaca, Limatambo. ... 86

Portion of Wall of Huaca near Lima¬ tambo . 87

Fortified Hill of Collicjui. 88

Plan of Ruins at the Hacienda Arria¬ ga, with Section. 89

Carved Wooden Idol. 90

Wooden Bowl. 91

Ear of Maize, in Stone. 91

Ruins of Cajamarquilla. 92

Section and Plan of Subterranean

Vaults. 92

Part of Ruins of Cajamarquilla, Val¬ ley of the Rimac. 93

Door-ways. 94

Vase, from Santa. 10^

The Caballito. 109

The Great Pyramid of Moche. 131

Plan of the Pyramid. 131

Palace, Chimu. 136

Hall of the Arabesques, Chimu. 137

Figures in Stucco. 138

Silver Cup. 142

Excavation of the Necropolis, Chimu 144

Specimen of Cloth, Chimu. 145

Silver Ornament from Cliirau. 146

Fish Ornaments from the Chincha

Gold Feather Ornament. 149

A Strange Structure. 150

Tomb B, Necropolis, Chimu. 150

Plan of ‘'First Palace,” Chimu. 152

Sectional View of Walls, Chimu. ... 153

Figures on Wall, Chimu.153, 154

Ruined Walls, Chimu. faces 154

Plan of Reservoir. 155

Prison (“First Palace”), Chimu. . . . 157 Plan of “Second Palace,” Chimu ... 159 xviii

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

Plan of Sub-square, Ruins of Grand

Chimu. 160

Golden Vase, Chimu. 1V1

Silver Vase, Chimu . 171

Golden Plate, Chimu. One-fourth

size . 172

Silver Medal, Chimu. One-fourth size 172 Gold and Silver Coins, Chimu. Full

size . 172

Silver Lizard, Fish, and Serpent, Chi¬ mu. Reduced. 173

Bird cast in Alloyed Gold. From Ca-

hete. Half size. 174

Agricultural Implements of Bronze.. 175

Trowel. 176

Knives, Chimu. 176

War-club. 177

Peruvian Pottery.177, 178

Pictorial Design from a Vase, Chimu 180 Model of an Ancient House, from a

Vase, Chimu. 181

Tambourine-player. 1S1

Syrinx, or Pan's-pipe. 182

Trumpet, baked clay.182

Peruvian Vases. 183

Modern Peruvian Head. 184

Peruvian Vases. 185

Combat between the Man of the Earth and the Man of the Sea.... 186

The Serpent Symbol. 186

Snail from Chimu Vase. 187

God of the Air. 188

Ruins of Iluaeatambo, Valley of Rio

Nepena. 199

Pyramid of Tierra Firmc. 201

El I’adrejon, Valley of Nepeiia.206

Stone Works of Mora . 207

Vase at Motoeache. 209

Stone Fortress of Chancayillo, Valley

of Casina. 211

Plan of the Fortress of Quisque.... 213

Plan of the Ruins of Alpacote. 215

Plan of Ruins of Iluanuco Viejo, /hccs 216

The Castillo of Iluanuco Viejo . 217

Medanos. 222

Grand Plaza and Market-place of

Arequipa. 223

Arequipa and the Volcano of Mis¬ ti. .faces 225

Page

Port of Islay. 227

Tambo of La Joya, Pampa of Islay.. 227

Chart of the Harbor of Arica.22S

The Port and Morro of Arica.. faces 229

The Alameda of Taena.233

Equipped for the Cordillera.239

Chulpa, or Burial-tower. 243

Aymara Skull. 244

The Llama.246

The Nevados of Tacora and Chipicani, from the Pass of Guaylillos.. faces 249

The Vicuna. 250

Nevado and Tambo of Tacora.252

The Casitas of Uchusuma.255

Our Dormitory at Uchusuma. 256

Street View in Santiago de Maehaea. 261

Aymara Female Head-dress.262

Balsa Bridge over the Rio Desagua-

dero.265

Illampu (the Crown of the Andes)

and Lake Titicaca. faces 268

Plan of a Part of the Ruins of Tia-

huanueo. 276

The American Stonehenge,Tiahuanueo 277 Outer Terrace Walls of Fortress, and

Scattered Blocks of Stone. 280

Lesser Monolithic Door-way. 283

Gate-way at Cemetery—front view.. 284 Gate-way at Cemetery—rear view... 285

Symbolical Slab. 287

Front of Great Monolithic Gate-way. 288 Back of Great Monolithic Gate-way. 289 Centre Figure on Great Monolith... 291 Sculptured Figure on Great Monolith. 292 Head of Statue near Tiahuanueo.... 296 Columns and Figures in Stone in Tia-

lmanuco.297

Head-dress of Indian Female Dancer. 305 Indians celebrating the Chuuo, or Po¬ tato Festival, Tiahuanueo.306

Cattle feeding on Lake-weed, Lake

Titicaca.308

Totora Bridge over the Outlet of Lake

Titicaca. 309

Entry into the Pueblo of El Dcsagua-

dcro. 311

A Dinner Compliment in Yunguyo.. 315 View of the Bay of Copacabana, Lake Titicaca. faces 317

ILLUSTRATIONS.

XIX

Page

Shrine of Nuestra Senora de Copaca-

bana. 319

Seats cut in the Rock, Copacabana.. 324 The Bath of the Incas, Copacabana. 325 View from the “ Ladera,” the Island

of Titicaca in the Distance. 327

Balsa Navigation on Lake Titicaca.. 328

Map of Lake Titicaca.330

Plan of Ancient Buildings at the

'Landing, Island of Titicaca.333

Niche in Ruins at Landing, Island of

Titicaca. 334

The Sacred Rock of Manco Capac.. . 337 Pila, or Fountain, of the Incas, Titica¬ ca. 342

Side-view of Palace of the Inca, Island

of Titicaca. faces 343

Chambers in the Palace of the Inca. 343 Ground-plan of the Palace of the

Inca, Island of Titicaca.344

Plan of Second Story of the Palace of

the Inca. 345

Island of Coati and the u Crown of the Andes,” from Esplanade.of Pal¬ ace of the Inca. faces 346

The Inca’s Chair.350

Ancient Sepulchres, Acora.351

Chulpas, or Burial-towers, Acora.... 352 Plan and Section of Square Chulpa.. 353 Plan and Section of Round Chulpa.. 353

Ancient Monument at Chucuito.354

Plan of Palace of the Virgins of the

Sun, Island of Coati. faces 360

Palace of the Virgins of the Sun,

Coati. 361

Temple of the Sun, Island of Titicaca. 368

Section of Aymara Chulpa.372

Aymara Chulpa, or Burial-tower, and

Hill Fort, at Escoma.373

Map of Lake Umayo. 377

Round Chulpas, Sillustani.378

Foundation-stone of Chulpa. 379

Broken Chulpa, Sillustani.381

Platform Stone of Sun-circle. 383

Sun-circle, Sillustani.384

Stone Pillars of Hatuncolla.385

Ornaments on Pillar.386

Frog on Pillar. 386

Hill Fortress of Quellenata.387

Page

Pelasgic Tower at Alatri, Italy.387

Chulpa at Ullulloma, Peru.387

Turf House near Mouth of the Rio

Ramis. 391

Remains of Structure, Acarpa.393

The Sondor-huasi.394

The Condor and the Bull. 396

Plan of Inca Tambo, La Raya.401

Ruins of Temple of Viracocha.407

Plan of Temple of Viracocha and De¬ pendent Structures.408

Stone Houses near Temple of Vira¬ cocha .410

Gate-way of Fortress of Piquillacta.. 420

Plan of Piquillacta.421

View of Cuzco, and the Nevada of Asungata, from the Brow of the

Sacsahuaman. faces 427

Plan of Cuzco, Ancient and Mod¬ ern. faces 429

Church and Convent of Santo Do¬ mingo, Cuzco. 430

View in the Plaza del Cabildo, Cuzco 431 Inca Bridge over the Iluatenay, Cuzco 432 Cyclopean Wall, Palace of the Inca

Rocca, Cuzco.433

Inca Door-way, Cuzco. 435

Court of Convent of Santo Domingo, and Ancient Inca Fountain, Cuzco 440 Plan of the Temple and Convent of

the Sun, Cuzco.441

End Wall of the Temple of the Sun,

Cuzco. 443

Side Wall of the Temple of the Sun,

and Ancient Street, Cuzco. 445

View of the Pampa Maroni, with Inca

Wall, Cuzco.446

“ The Schools,” Cuzco.447

House of Garcilasso de la Vega,

Cuzco. 449

View of the Hill of the Sacsahua¬ man from the Plaza del Cabildo,

Cuzco. 450

Remains of Palace of the First Inca,

Cuzco. 451

Church of La Merced, Cuzco. 454

Trepanned Skull. 457

Terra-cottas from Cuzco. 458

Ancicut Stone Sculpture, Cuzco.458

XX

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

Dog-killing in Front of the Convent

of Santa Aua, Cuzco.461

Aqueduct over the Rodadero.4(55

Lower Fall of the Rodadero.466

Upper Fall of the Rodadero.467

Part of Inca Aqueduct.468

Section of the Walls of the Fortress. 470 Plan of the Inca Fortress of the Sac-

sahuaman. faces 470

Salient Angle of the Fortress.471

Part of the Fortress of the Sacsahuaman, from the “Seat of the

Inca ”. faces 476

Niche in Terrace Walls of the Col-

coni pata.477

Rock Seats, near Fortress. 478

Map of the Valley of Yucav. 483

Coped and Niched Terrace Walls,

Chinchero.484

Section of Terrace of Chinchero. . . . 485 Terrace Wall and Azeqnia, Yucay.. 487 View in the Valley of Yucay from Corridor of the Hacienda Umeres. 490

Rock Tombs, Ollantaytambo..491

Map of Valley and Monuments of

Ollantaytambo. .faces 493

The Fort, Ollantaytambo.493

Principal Fortress of Ollantaytambo. 495

Page

Door-way to Corridor, Ollantaytambo 496 Niched Corridor, Ollantaytambo.... 497

Ollantaytambo Fortification.499

Porphyry Slabs, Fortress of Ollantay¬ tambo. 500

Horca del Ilombre, Ollantaytambo.. 502

Inca Buildings, Ollantaytambo.503

Ancient Block in Ollantaytambo.... 504

Inca Bridge, Ollantaytambo.506

Small Houses, Ollantaytambo. 509

Plan of Palace of Ollantay.515

View of Part of Palace of Ollantay. 515 Sacred Rock and Circular Buildiug

near Calca, Valley of Yucay.518

View of Point of Fortress, Pisac. ... 521

Stairway, Pisac. 522

Fortified Pass, Pisac. 523

The Inti-huatana of Pisac. 525

The Inti-huatana of Pisac (Plan)... 527

Rock Tombs, Pisac. 531

Bridge of the Apurimac. faces 545

The Artist and the Indians. 554

The Roek of Coneacha—Front and

Back. 555

Hanging Bridge over the Rio Pam¬ pas. 558

Looking across the Bridge. 559

The Post-house at Ocras. 560

IN

THE LAND OF THE INCAS.

Chapter I. Introductory

Mr. Prescott on the Inca Monuments.—Influence of his Words.—The Author’s Aspi¬ rations and Purposes.—Threatened with Blindness.—Appointed United States Commissioner to Peru.—Restoration to Sight.—Commencement of Explorations. —Extent of the Region explored.—Plans, Drawings, and Photographs.—Value of the Material secured.—General Survey of the Inca Empire.—Its Boundaries.— Physical Characteristics.—Lake and River Systems.—Mountain Ranges.—The Coast Desert.—Fertile Valleys.—The Inhabitants of the Valleys.—The Cordillera. — The Despoblado.—Distinction between the Cordillera and the Andes.—The Basin of Titicaca.—Only two other Similar Basins in America.—Lake Aullagas.— Lake Titicaca.—Its Sacred Islands.—The Bolsones , or Valleys.—The Bolson of Cuzco.—The Montana.—The Incas and the Peoples of the Montana.—Probable Population of the Inca Empire.—Divisions of the Ancient Inhabitants of Peru.— Their Character and Institutions determined by Physical Conditions.—Design of this Work.

Many years ago, Mr. Prescott, in the Essay on the Civiliza¬ tion of the Incas, prefixed to his “ History of the Conquest of Peru,” said, in words which were echoed by every thoughtful student of antiquities:

“ The hand of the conquerors fell heavily on the venerable monuments of Peru; and, in their blind and superstitious search for hidden treasure, they caused infinitely more ruin than time or the earthquake. Yet enough of the monuments of the Ino cas remain to invite the researches of the antiquary. Those only in the most conspicuous situations have hitherto been ex¬ amined. But, by the testimony of travellers, many more are to be found in the less-frequented parts of the country, and we may hope they will one day call forth a kindred spirit of enter¬ prise to that which has so successfully explored the mysterious recesses of Central America and Yucatan.”