Notes and recollections of an angler: rambles among mountains, valleys, and solitudes of Wales

Front matter

THE LIBRARY

OF

LOS ANGELES y.

Chapter II

MACHYNLLETH — LLANBRYNMAIR — LLYN BUGEILYN — PISTYLL-Y-LLYN — LLYN PENRHAIADR — TOWYN — CRAIG ADERYN — DYSYNNI — PENLLYN POOL — MALLWYD — ARAN MOWDDWY — SOURCE OF THE DYFJ 20

CHAPTER HI.

HARLECH — LLYNS — SCENERY — LLANBEDR— CWM BYCHAN — CRAIG- Y-

DDINAS — CVM NANTCOL — DRWS ARDUDWY — CELTIC ANTIQUITIES 34

Chapter IV

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS — LAKES AND RIVERS IN CAERNARVONSHIRE — FISHING STATIONS — BEDDGELERT — SCENERY — LLYN GWYNANT — LLYN-Y-DDINAS — LLYN-Y-GADER . 60

Chapter VI. River Fishing At Beddgelert — Avon Las — Pont Aberglasltn

— COLWYN — MOEL HEBOG CNIGHT — MOELWYN — TREMADOC —

PORTHMADOC — PENMORFA — DOLBENMAEN. 85 yiii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VH.

LLYN CWELLYN — NANT MILL — CASTELL CIDWM — MYNTOD MAWR — GWRFAI — SNOWDON HANGER — LLYN DYWARCHEN — DRWS-Y-COED

— NANT-Y-LLEF — SCENERY OF NANT-Y-LLEF LAKES — EXCURSIONS THROUGH PASS— LAKE FISHING ............ 101

CHAPTER VHL

AN EXCURSION TO CLYNNOG VAWR, YR EIFL, AND NANT GWRTHEYRN 119

CHAPTER IX.

SNOWDONIA — PEN-Y-GWRYD — LAKES — ASCENT OF GLYDERS— SUMMIT OF GLYDER BACH — SINGULAR APPEARANCE — TRIFAEN — LLYDER VAWR— Y-WAEN-OER — LLYN CWM FFYNNON ........ 129

CHAPTER X.

LLYN LLYDAW — ANGLING — INCIDENT — SCENERY — A MOUNTAIN

CLIMBER — LLYN CWM FFYNNON — RIVER GWRYD — ANGLING . . 138

CHAPTER XI.

SNOWDON — USUAL ASCENTS — GUIDES — SUPPOSED DANGERS OF ASCENT

— GRANDEUR OF SCENERY — EXCURSION TO SUMMIT — VIEW FROM Y-WYDDFA ................... 147

CHAPTER XIL

LLANBERIS — HOTELS — LLYN PERIS — LLYN PADARN — TROUT— CHAR- FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF LLANBERIS — PASS — SCENERY — VILLAGE — CHURCH — WELL OF ST. PERIS — CAENANT MAWR — LLYN DWYTHWCH LLYN-DC-ARDUDDWY— BOTANY OF LLANBERIS — HETTY'S ISLAND

CHAPTER Xin.

CASTELL DOLBADARN — SILPIN ON LANDSCAPE SCENERY — DOLBADARN A DESERT — SCENERY OF DOLBADARN — WARNER'S DESCRIPTION OF DOLBADARN ................... 168

CHAPTER XIV.

CAPEL CURIG — INN— CAPEL CURIG, PAST AND PRESENT — LLYNNIAU MYMBYR — LLYNS IN THE VICINITY — ASCENT TO THE SUMMITS OF CARNEDD LLEWELYN AND CARNEDD DAVYDD — LLYN FFYNNON LLOER— STORM IN THE WILDS ............ 175

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XV.

PAGE

LLYN IDWAL — ITS SCENERY — LEGENDS — TWLL DO — EXCURSION TO LLYN IDWAL — LLYN OGWEN — ITS TROUT — NANT FFRANCON — TEA- TELLING IN WALES 186

CHAPTER XVI.

THE TEIFI — ITS SOURCE — FISHING STATIONS — SALMON AND TROUT FISHING — TREGARON — LLYN BERWYN — ANGLING — TEIFI FISHING — LLANDDEWI BBEVI 199

CHAPTER XVn.

HAFOD — PONT BREN — PONTRHYDVENDIGAID — ABBEY OF STRATA FLORIDA — ITS HISTORY AND PRESENT STATE— EXCURSION FROM THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE TO LLANDOVERY — BLAEN TWRCH UCHAF — ENCOUNTER REBECCA 2]0

CHAPTER XVHI.

THE LAKES OF CARDIGANSHIRE — THE TEIFI POOLS — ANGLING — LLYN GYNON — LLYN GORAST — LLYNNIAU FYRDDIN VAWR AND VACH — LLYN CRUGNANT — LLYN T)t — LEGENDS 225

CHAPTER XIX.

BALA — ROMAN REMAINS — ANGLING STATION — SALMON AND TROUT FISHING — LAKES — LLYN TEGID — LLYN ARENIG VAWR — LLYN ARENIG VACH — THE DEE — THE TWRCH — THE TRY WERYN— LLYN TRYWERYN — CONCLUDING REMARKS 232

Appendix

THE ANGLER'S ENTOMOLOGY — ARTIFICIAL FLIES — FISHING TACKLE . 244

NOTES . . 24S

Ackers, James, Esq. Prinknash Park, Gloucestershire. 2 COPIES.

Abbot, Henry, Esq. Bristol.

Addison, Thomas, P. Esq. Gloucester.

Allcroft, J. M. Esq. Lower Wick, near Worcester. 2 COPIES.

Allcroft, John, D. Esq. 55, Porchester Terrace, London.

Allen, John, Esq. Swansea, Glamorgan.

Andrews, J. Esq. Alderman, Gloucester.

Ashbee, J. Esq. Hillfield, Gloucester.

Browne, Rev. Canon Murray, Standish Vicarage, Gloucestershire.

Bayly, Eev. P. T. J. Brookthorpe, Gloucestershire.

Barber, Rev. P. H. Sedgborough, near Evesham.

Brown, Rev. J. J. Harlech, Merionethshire, North Wales. 4 COPIES.

Burrup, J. Esq. Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Boughton, Edmund, Sen. Esq. Gloucester. 4 COPIES.

Boughton, Mrs. Ann, Kingsholm, Glo.

Boughton, John, Esq. Gloucester.

Boughton, Mr. E. Westgate Street, Glo.

Bravender, J. Esq. Cirences. 2 COPIES.

Bravender, Miss, Cirencester. 2 COPIES.

Bravender, Thomas B. Esq. Pembroke, South Wales.

Brown, J. H. Esq. College Green, Glou.

Brown, H. Esq. Weston-super-Mare.

Brookes, S. P. Esq. Tewkesbury.

Billett, Mr. J. H. Gloucester.

Bundy, Mr.W. Upton-on-Severn, Worcs.

Codrington, Sir C. W. Bart. M.P. DodingtonPark, Gloucestershire 2 COPIES

Colt, Rev. Sir E. V. Bart. Hill Vicarage, near Berkeley, Gloucestershire.

Covey, Rev. Charles, Alderton Rectory, near Cheltenham.

Crawley, Rev. Charles Y. Minor Canon, Gloucester Cathedral.

Clarke, J. A. Graham, Jun. Esq. Frocester, Gloucestershire.

Castree, Josiah, Esq. Alderman, Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Castree, Mr. Josiah, Jun. Sandhurst, near Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Castree, Mr. Edward 'James, Uckington, near Cheltenham.

Clarke, J. Esq. Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Coles, Robert, Esq. Clifton, Bristol.

Cooke, W. H. Esq. 4, Elm Court, Temple, London.

Commeline, Samuel, Esq. Gloucester.

Calton, Mr. John, Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Churchill, Mr. William, Gloucester.

Curtis, Mr. William, Gloucester.

Clift, Mr. Thomas, Chacely Lodge, near Tewkesbury. 2 COPIES.

Davies, Rev. James, Moor Court, Kington, Herefordshire. 2 COPIES.

Dupre, Rev. Edward, Temple Gutting, Gloucestershire.

Dent, John Coucher, Esq. Sudeley Castle, Gloucestershire. 2 COPIES.

Bowling, James Henry, Esq. Barnwood, near Gloucester.

Davies, Mr. Rees, Chepstow, Monmouthshire.

Davies and Son, Messrs. Gloucester.

Evans, Thomas, Esq. M.D. Gloucester.

Elliott, John, Esq. Gloucester.

Prancillon, James, Esq. Ryeworth House, Cheltenham.

Fulljames, Thomas, Esq. Hasfield Court, near Gloucester.

Fryer, K. H. Esq. Gloucester. 4 COPIES.

Fletcher, George, Esq. Shipton, Andoversford, near Cheltenham.

Fowler, W. Jun. Esq. Birmingham.

Gist, H. W. Esq. Temple Guiting, Glos.

Goodyar, George A. Dinely, Esq.

Weston-super-Mare.

Green, Miss, Gloucester.

Houlditch, Rev. E. Matson, near Glou.

Hale, Colonel, Wotton-under-Edge, Gloucestershire.

Hopkinson, Edmund, Esq. Edgeworth Manor, near Cirencester.

Hunt, C. Brooke, Esq. Bowden Hall, near Gloucester.

Helps, Richard, Esq. Alderman, Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Holt, Thomas, Esq. Registrar, Glo.

Heane, Captain Robert, Saintsbridge, near Gloucester.

Home, John, Esq. Tewkesbury, Glo.

Hughes, W. H. Esq. Alderman, Glo.

Hepworth, George, Esq. Gloucester.

Hanvey, J. Esq; Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Hefflll, Henry, Esq. Diss, Norfolk.

Hawkins, Mr. J. Staunton Court, Worcestershire.

Innell, C. F. Esq. Gloucester.

Jenkins, Arthur H. Esq. Gloucester.

Jew, Thomas, Esq. Gloucester.

Jenner, Mr. Daniel, Gloucester.

Knollys, Rev. Erskine, Rectory, Quedgley, Gloucestershire.

Xll

LIST OP SUBSCRIBERS.

Knowles, Mr. William, Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Lechmere, Sir Edmund A. H. Bart.

The Rhydd Court, Worcestershire.

Lechmere, Rev. A. B. Hartley Vicarage, Worcestershire.

Luscombe, Rev. E. K. Minor Canon, Gloucester.

Lovegrove, J. Esq, Glouc. 10 COPIES.

Lovegrove, H. J. Esq. Glouc. 2 COPIES.

Lord, John P. Esq. Gloucester.

Lucy, W. C. Esq. Gloucester.

Lloyd, William, Esq. Gloucester.

Lloyd, Mr. Charles J. Machynlleth, Montgomeryshire. 2 COPIES.

Lewis, L. W. Esq. Tewkesbury.

Lambley, Mr. C. Bushley, near Tew-

Monk, Charles James, Esq. Eversltigh House, Cricklade, Wilts.

Mutlow, Rev. W. W. Rudford, near Gloucester.

Marsh, R. Esq. Cloisters, Westminster.

Moore, C. W. Esq. Tewkesbury.

2 COPIES.

Morris, J. C. Esq. Swansea, Glamorgan.

Manley, John, Esq. M.D. County Asylum, Fareham, Hants.

Maberly, A. W. Esq. Gloucester.

Meyler, W. Morgan, Esq. Gloucester.

Mills, W. M. Esq. Woolstone, near

Cheltenham.

MacDougall, P. Sheridan, Esq. The Old

Bank, .Ross, Herefordshire.

Matthews, William R. A, Gloucester.

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Price, William Philip, Esq. Tibberton

Court, near Gloucester.

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Boss, Herefordshire.

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Pope, Rev. J. N. Longdon, Worces.

Powell, John P. Esq. Pump Court,

Temple, London.

Phillpotts, A. H. Esq. Severn Sank,

Minsterworth, Gloucestershire.

Prior, P. J. Esq. Tewkesbury.

Pigott, R. Esq. Stoke Ferry, Norfolk.

Page, E. Esq. Smethwick, Birmingham.

Pike, Mr. T. H. Gloucester.

Power and Son, Messrs. Gloucester.

Roberts, Rev. George, Cheltenham, 2 COPIES.

Rowlatt, Rev. J. C. Gloucester.

Rees, William, Esq. Llandovery, South

Wales.

Seymour, Rev. Canon Sir John Hobart

C. Bart North Church, Herts.

2 COPIES,

Baiter Rev. J. Iron Acton, Gloucesters.

Sevier, Rev. J.Hasfield, near Gloucester .

Sevier, J. Ford, Esq. Maisemore, near

Gloucester.

Stone, Edward Gresley, Esq. Chambers'

Court, Longdon, Worcestershire.

Stone, Guy, Esq. Comber, County Down,

Ireland.

Hill West, London.

Smith, J. K. Esq. Newnham, Glos.

Smith, John P. Esq. Gloucester.

Smith, R. T. Esq. Gloucester.

Stafford, Mr. W. Gloucester. 2 COPIES.

Taylor, Rev. H. J. Upton-on-Severn,

Worcestershire. 2 COPIES.

Taylor, Samuel, Esq. Gloucester.

Taylor, Thomas L. Esq. Harleston,

Norfolk.

Tnnstall, W. C. Esq. Glouc. 2 COPIES.

Trinder, E. N. Esq. Cirencester.

Thomas, W. Esq. Swansea, Glamorgan.

Thomas, J. Esq. Bredon, Worcestershire.

Trenfleld, John, Esq. Chipping Sodbury, Gloucestershire.

Trenfleld, William, Esq. Gloucester.

Timbrill, Miss, Tewkesbury.

Tooby, Mrs. Gloucester.

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Cathedral.

White, Rev. Robert Meadows, D.D.

Slimbridge Rectory, Gloucestershire.

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Rhuabon, Denbighshire, N. Wales.

Weaver, T. Esq. Mayor of Tewkesbury.

Whithorn, Henry Blear, Esq. Alderman, Gloucester. 4 COPIES.

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Alderman, Gloucester.

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Williams, G. E. Esq. Cheltenham.

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near Stroud, Gloucestershire.

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Gloucester.

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near Cheltenham.

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NOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS OF AN ANGLER :

RAMBLES AMONG THE MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, AND SOLITUDES OF WALES.

Chapter I

TAL-Y-LLYN— SCENERY — ANGLING — LLTN MWYNGIL — LLYN-Y-CAE — SUBLIME SCENERY — CADER IDRIS — ASCENTS TO SUMMIT.

" There is a sweet accordant harmony In tliis fair scene — These pure waters, where the sky In its deep blueness shines so peacefully, A spot it is for far off music made, Stillness and rest."

NOTHING in landscape can -exceed the soft beauty of the Vale of Tal-y-Llyn, nor is there a " nook " in Cambria more fascinating in its aspects, than this valley and its beautiful lake. It will not bear comparison in sublimity with some of the more profound and secluded recesses in Snowdonia, although it is not deficient in grandeur when viewed under the dark lowering clouds which frequently hover over the summits of the surrounding heights. Under peculiar lights — especially after rain, or in lowering weather — the exquisite colouring of the mountains on either side is perfectly magical; and the intimate intermixture of mountain and lake scenery — the contrast from the sublime to the beautiful — leave an impression upon the mind which time cannot erase. The finest view of the vale is unquestionably from Minffordd,

B

2 TAL-Y-LLYN — SCENERY.

about one mile from the head of the lake. At this point the eye embraces the waters of the Llyn, glistening perchance in the rays of the sun, with the picturesque village and church at the lower extremity embosomed amidst trees; whilst on the right the "grey, tempest-worn, blasted steeps," of the lofty Cader Idris, disrobing himself in the early morning of the heavy clouds which have gathered over his brow, entrance the beholder and lift him from " this world's turmoil into some planetary paradise."

" I looked on the mountains — a vapour lay Folding their heights in its dark array ; Thou hreakest forth — and the mist hecame A crown and a mantle of living flame."

HEIIAHS.

Sweet romantic LlynMwyngil ! " lake of the charming retreat — " how often in other days have we passed hours on thy placid bosom in a summer's morn, when scarcely the lightest zephyr ruffled the surface of thy limpid waters, surveying the tranquil scene around us! Or with eyes uplifted to "that sun-glorified beautiful blue arch of heaven above all." Who is there that cannot find a place in his heart — if not preoccupied by worldly feelings — for such a scene as this ? or, after a lapse of years — hallowed, perhaps, by the recollection of better and happier days — refer to the tablets of his memory, and refresh the mind's eye, by tracing anew the weather-stained and lichened rocks on the sides of Cader Idris, or some picturesque group of wild homes, nestling in one of the frowning cwms under his majestic heights.

Since the days of Captain Medwin, who gave to the world an account of Tal-y-Llyn, some twenty-five years ago, in his very clever and amusing work, " The Angler in Wales," this " angler's paradise" has undergone a great change. From being a place comparatively little known, it is now annually resorted to by swarms of anglers, artists, and tourists ; so that the " air of tranquillity" it formerly enjoyed is now frequently interrupted by joyous troops of visitors, whose boisterous merriment clashes on the ear of such as used formerly to delight in the quiet seclusion of this " charming retreat."

Tal-y-Llyn has been described by various topographers, but by none so truthfully or graphically as by the late lamented author

PEN-Y-BONT INN — TY N-Y-CORNEL. 6

of " The Book of North Wales." As we have not, however, met with any very recent or accurate accounts of sport obtained in this romantic locality, we shall present the results of many years' angling experience on the lake and neighbouring localities, and such useful information to the sportsman as we may deem requisite.

In Captain Medwin's time, A.D. 1832, as we have already observed, Tal-y-Llyn, as an angling-station, was little known. A few gentlemen — several of them clergymen, and occasionally an artist or two — were the chief visitors.1 The rude old-fashioned inn at Pen-y-bont — where the waters of the lake find an outlet, and form one of the sources of the river Dysynni — was the only accommodation the place afforded. This consisted of a parlour, somewhat dark and homely, but quiet and comfortable, and two or three small sleeping apartments. Anglers in those days were content to "rough it;" they were, in short, satisfied with humble fare and lodging. Some years afterwards, in the year 1844, the late Colonel Vaughan, of Hengwrt, the proprietor of the lake, built a neat and more commodious inn on the shore, at the south-west corner, near the village, and under the picturesque mountains Mynydd Rhinog and Craig-Goch. This was called Ty'n-y-Cornel inn. He also most liberally provided two boats for the use of visitors, and the inn was exceedingly well conducted by the landlord, the late Edward Corbet Owen. In former years we used to take up our quarters at the "Blue Lion," Minffordd, about one mile from the pool, where there was a comfortable parlour and bedroom, but of course we could not command the use of a boat. This " aunciente hostelrie " is mentioned by Warner in his first " Walk through Wales," in ] 797. He also alludes to an eccentric character named David Pughe, who acted as guide to the "sublime mountain Cader Idris," and seems to have been highly diverted with " his pompous manner and affected dignity." The excellent accommodation and attention to " creature comforts " at Ty'u-y-Cornel, added to the nourishing accounts of the sport afforded there in the various guide-books and local prints, began

1 " It is but a few years since this lake was first known, and was, I believe,

first discovered by a descendant of the celebrated C ." — Medioin's "Angler

in Wales."

4 LLYN MWYNG1L FECUNDITY OF TROUT.

to draw the attention of professors of the "gentle art" from Liverpool, Birmingham, Shrewsbury, and other more distant places; so that since that time (1844) Ty'n-y-Cornel has become a place of general resort by anglers of all shades ; and since the introduction of the " iron road " to Shrewsbury and other places, they have been annually on the increase. Edward Corbet Owen, a most obliging, intelligent man, unfortunately for his widow and family, died in 1847; in 1852, Mrs. Owen, from poverty and inability to manage the house, was obliged to retire ; and the present tenants, Mr. and Mrs. Evans, — who had been in the service of the late Sir Robert W. Vaughan, Bart. — succeeded her. The same year the inn was considerably enlarged and improved: several more bed and sitting rooms were added, and every comfort and convenience belonging to a good inn are now to be found there. Of course, a large increase of visitors brought with it a corresponding demand for boats, and there are now at least five or six boats on the pool. Such is a brief history of the rise and progress of the fishing-station of Tal-y-Llyn.

Llyn Mwyngil — which signifies in English the "Lake of the Charming Retreat " — is nearly one mile and a quarter long, and in no part much exceeds a quarter of a mile in breadth ; the average being about two furlongs and a half. It is, in fact, an expansion of the narrow vale ; the waters from the surrounding mountains being confined and dammed up at the lower extremity, where they run off in a rapid stream at Pen-y-bont, under an excellent new bridge erected a few years ago. The tributaries to the lake are several small rivulets, the chief of which flows from a wild alpine Llyn high up under Cader Idris, called Llyn-y-Cae, the " Pool of the Chasm," supposed by some, from its profound depth, to be the crater of an extinct volcano. We shall have occasion hereafter to more fully describe this lake. These brooks absolutely swarm with small trout ; and in summer, when these waters are clear and low, you may see legions of tiny fish, not larger than minnows, disporting themselves on the surface of the water. Indeed, the fecundity of the trout which spawn in these brooks is really wonderful. Were it not so, the lake would speedily be despoiled of its finny inhabitants by the numerous anglers who daily frequent it. Many trout and eels also fall a prey to black

CORMORANTS — LARGE TROUT. 5

cormorants which haunt the lake. It is very amusing sometimes to watch these great birds sitting on the top of a rail or post by the edge of the pool, to dry their wings after their immersion. They put one in mind of a "spread eagle," their wings being extended to the full stretch. These birds cannot fly well until their wings are dry, and being disabled from this cause and a full meal, they not unfrequently fall victims to the gun.1 The trout in Tal-y-Llyn, though of rapid growth, are rarely caught of great size ; few, if any, during the season being taken much larger than one pound. The lake is said to contain two distinct species — the common brook trout, the average weight of which does not exceed three to the pound, although on some occasions fish are taken from half a pound to one pound and upwards; and the great lake trout (salmo forox), which at rare intervals have been caught in the net, of seven or ten pounds weight. We cannot, however, aver to the truth of this ; indeed, we doubt whether the true salmo ferox is to be found in any Welsh lake. They are plentiful in some of the lakes in Ireland and Scotland. We also find it mentioned in one of the guide-books, that a "trout weighing more than twelve pounds was found a few winters ago frozen under the iee." A few instances are recorded of large trout being taken with the fly, one of which occurred a few years since to the present worthy incumbent of the parish, the Rev. J. Pring, who informed us that he had caught at the head of the lake a fish weighing about four pounds ; but it apparently was dying of old age, as it made very little resistance when he captured it. After a few hours it was found to be totally unfit for the table. We have lately read of another instance of a trout weighing three pounds and three-quarters being taken with the artificial fly. These captures are, however, extremely rare. There is little doubt that if Tal-y-Llyn was strictly preserved, instead of being

1 It is a singular fact, but you never observe more than two of these birds on the lake at a time. Should one happen to be killed or disabled, another will immediately supply its place. They come from Craig Aderyn, the " Bird Rock," a striking scene on the banks of the Dysynni, a few miles from Tal-y- Llyn, where they breed, and at certain seasons it is thronged with them. Their appetites are insatiable. " Their craws are full of worms, that are continn<Jly gnawing for food."

6 TAL-Y-LLYN — TROUT SHOEE FISHING.

-free to the public, trout of much larger size than those DOW caught would more frequently be on the hook. The reason why trout grow with such amazing rapidity in this lake arises probably from the abundant feed they obtain on its mossy bottom. The Llyn is in no part exceedingly deep ; its greatest depth is probably eight or ten yards, but its general average is only from six to twelve feet. No angler who knows the lake would dream of fishing in the deeps, which by the knowing ones are aptly named " the Sahara," or barren waters. Even on the most favourable days, you can hardly ever obtain a rise on this part of the pool. We have often been highly amused watching the "griffins" anchor their boat on this sterile ground, with little probability of even stirring a single fish. The quality of the trout in Tal-y-Llyn is very indifferent; they are best when cooked immediately after they are caught, and then, especially if you happen to catch some that are pinky in the flesh, they are palatable enough to hungry fishermen ; but they are vastly inferior to the trout found in some of the lakes of Caernarvonshire and in the northern portion of Merioneth.1

Shore-fishing at Tal-y-Llyn is seldom pursued except in stormy weather, when it is almost impossible to manage a boat. You should provide yourself with a pair of Cording's wading-boots, and be able to throw your flies well in the eye of the wind, otherwise your labour will not be rewarded with much success. We never knew but one or two fishermen who frequented Tal-y-Llyn, who could boast of having obtained a good day's sport from shore. The fact is, that many anglers fancy the further they can throw their fly into a lake the better chance there is of a "rise." This is frequently a great mistake ; some of the heaviest fish we have ever caught in the Welsh lakes have been actually taken almost on the "surf." You will almost always obtain the best "rise" on a lee-shore ; this, of course, unless in a boat, involves the necessity of throwing against the wind. The reason is obvious : the wind drifts the fly to the shore, and instinct guides the finny

1 The trout caught in Tal-y-Llyn are so exceedingly delicate that they will not bear transport to any distance, so that if you want to make presents to your friends, you must have them potted down and seasoned well with spice, In this state they are far more palatable than when cooked fresh.

BOAT FISHING — SPORT. 7

tribe to the most favourable position to seize upon their prey. Fishing from a boat is comparatively nmch easier to learn than shore-fishing, and in a pool like Tal-y-Llyn, where the trout are generally "free," even a perfect "greenhorn" may sometimes obtain very fair sport. There is less art in the manipulation of your flies, and if the lake is rough, the wind will carry them from the boat with very little labour to yourself. We have said that the trout in Tal-y-Llyn are generally "free," but, like most of their congeners, they are sometimes fickle and capricious, and occasionally even the most accomplished anglers make what is called a "blank day."

Fourteen or fifteen years ago, very capital sport was frequently obtained here. One or two first-rate anglers, who knew the " ways of the lake " well, would take from six to nine dozen trout each in a day, including some of large size. Although not "gluttons in the matter of trout," we have also enjoyed some very good sport. We find, upon referring to our journal, that in June, 1850, our daily average amounted to from forty to fifty fish, some of which weighed from three-quarters to one pound each. At the present time, we have been informed, that from the increased number of boats, and the still greater increase of anglers, the sport has fallen off. The fact is, that the lake is so incessantly " flogged "• that a great many fish are scared, "pricked," and lost off the hooks, so that they have not only become more wary, but are also not so plentiful.1

It may be useful to anglers fresh to the lake if we here impart some information as to the best portions of it for sport. The largest quantity of fish are undoubtedly taken at the lower end, but the size, with of course exceptions, is much smaller than those caught at the upper extremity. There is good fishing to be

1 In 1855, during a stay of eight days at Tal-y-Llyn, we killed twenty-three dozen, which makes an average take of thirty-four trout per diem ; but it is proper to add, that on the two last days the weather became bright, calm, and hot, so that few fish were taken, and which reduced considerably the average of the preceding six days, on two of which, we severally killed forty-seven and fifty-three. During this visit the heaviest fish taken did not exceed fourteen ounces. The chief elements of success on this lake, are clouds, plenty of rain, and a brisk breeze. Without these concomitants, little is to be done.

8 DESCRIPTION OP LAKE — LLYN-Y-CAE.

obtained on both sides of the lake from Ty'n-y-Cornel until you arrive off a point on the south shore, which stretches into the pool at the narrowest part, and where the water for some distance is very deep. Nearer the head of the lake the water shoals off, and from the mouth of a rivulet which here flows into it, the source of which is in Llyn-y-Cae, larger trout abound than in any other part. The shore on the side of Cader Idris is the best. Indeed, there is good fishing near the edge on the north side to the mouth of the stream above-mentioned, especially off some tall rushes which fringe the margin. Near what is called "the island" good sport is frequently obtained. This "island" is seldom visible above water unless the lake is very low. It appears to be a large earn, or tumulus of stones, and is believed to cover the remains of some ancient warrior or chieftain. This is mere conjecture, but it certainly bears a resemblance to such a monument.

The principal flies in use depend on the season of the year. In the months of May and June — the best months — the March brown, red spinner, partridge and green, alder, pea-hen, cinnamon, Shaw's governor, fernshaw, and the cow-dung, are all excellent flies. There are many others occasionally used, according to the whim or fancy of the fishermen, all of whom profess to have a " wrinkle " or two ; but, from long experience, we have had better sport with these flies at this season than with any others.

This solitudinous sheet of water, which lies in a deep hollow under the frowning precipices of Cader Idris, is of considerable elevation, and there are few lakes in Wales more difficult of access. It is called Llyn-y-Cae, which signifies the "Pool of the Chasm," or, more literally, the "Pool of the Enclosure." It is, beyond comparison, superior in sublimity and grandeur to any other mountain scene in Wales, with perhaps the exception of Llyn Idwal. The lake is bounded on the west side by the lofty rock — inaccessible from the pool — called Craig-y-Cae, one of the highest peaks of Cader Idris, the abode of the kite and the raven; the hoarse, ominous croaking of the latter bird,

LLYN-Y-CAE — ITS DEPTH — SPORT.

hovering around or perched upon the rocks far overhead, being sometimes the only break to the solemn silence which pervades this desolate spot. The north and south sides are also encircled by lofty precipices which, in some parts, run down sheer into the water, but you can generally approach the shores, although your footing is precarious, from the loose rough debris with which they are lined; with the exception, however, of the east shore, the descent to the lake is rough and difficult from all points. The easiest access is from the east, where the shore is low and open. A limpid, sparkling brook, abounding in small trout, issues from the Llyn, at the north-east corner, and, after a succession of picturesque falls, beautifully fringed and adorned with trees and coppice-wood, empties itself into Tal-y-Llyn, about three-quarters of a mile below Minffordd. Llyn-y-Cae, from its immense depth, which is said to be at least sixty fathoms (360 feet), has been supposed by some authors to have once'formed the crater of an extinct volcano: there is, however, little, if any, evidence in support of this theory^ as no remains or appearance of remote volcanic action at present exist. The lake is of small extent, not exceeding sixty or seventy acres; it is about three furlongs in length, and is about half that distance broad in the widest part from north to south. Two persons fishing on opposite shores can easily hold a conversation when the lake is calm. The pool swarms with trout; occasionally they "rise" freely, but are oftentimes exceedingly sullen, so much so, that some anglers — amongst others, Captain Medwin — have gone away from the lake with the impression that it contained no fish. Medwin says, " As I expected, I never got a rise, nor saw a fish move, though they tell me it abounds with trout." Fine bright hot weather we have generally found the most favourable time to visit Llyn-y-Cae, but even then you are often disappointed, and scarcely obtain a rise, or even see a fish stir. We have enjoyed upon several occasions some excellent diversion here. On referring to our journal of sport in 1847, we find that during a sojourn of a few days at Minffordd, we made two or three excursions to the lake with the following results : — " June 3d. — A lovely summer's morning, cloudless and oppressively hot. After an early breakfast, breasted the steeps of Cader Idris, en route to Llyn-y-Cae. A very slack