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The Nestorians

Asahel Grant · 1841 · Scanned text

96,069 words · about 6 h 44 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Asahel Grant
Language
English
Published
1841
Length
96,069 words · about 6 h 44 min
Sections
14 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain · PD-US by publication date

 

Contents (14)
  1. Front matter about 1 min
  2. Preface about 3 min
  3. Chapter I under 1 min
  4. Chapter II about 1 min
  5. Chapter V under 1 min
  6. Chapter VI about 1 min
  7. Appendix under 1 min
  8. Chapter I about 11 min
  9. Chapter II about 26 min
  10. Chapter IV about 14 min
  11. Chapter V about 30 min
  12. Chapter. VII about 22 min
  13. Chapter IX about 12 min
  14. Chapter I about 4 h 42 min

Continue:

Front matter

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Preface

Tue following pages are submitted to the public with great deference. They were written partly amid the incessant toils of a missionary life, and partly during my homeward voyage. The constant pressure of other cares, and imperative duties, during my transient stay in my native land, has left no opportunity for re-writing the manuscript, and for correcting inaccuracies of style incident to an inexperienced writer, under circumstances so obviously unfavourable to careful composition. P

But while, with this explanation, I of UT EIicit the reader’s indulgence in regard to the style and form of this essay, | am aware that whatever real value it may be found to possess, will depend essentially upon the facts it imbodies. In this respect no effort has been spared to ensure accuracy. Constant attention to my duties as a missionary physician has brought me in contact with almost every class of the people among whom I have lv PREFACE.

travelled or sojourned, and has greatly multiplied my opportunities for observation. My professional character has procured me ready access to the retirement of the harem, and the social and domestic circles of all classes of the people. Every important particular has been carefully noted down on the spot, and 1 have endeavoured to preserve my mind from prejudice, and to guard against every source of error. I trust, therefore, that the facts here recorded, so far as they are derived from personal observation, will be deemed worthy of confidence. The public must decide whether the conclusions to which I have arrived are warranted by the data. I have only to remark, that these facts forced themselves upon my attention, and were not sought for to confirm a previouslyformed theory.

In the course of my investigations, the want of access to original authorities has sometimes compelled me to quote from accredited compilers ; but I have verified the quotations as far as possible, and it is believed that no valid objection can be made to them for the purposes which they were designed to subserve.

If the facts and arguments imbodied in this

PREFACE. Vv work should convince the candid reader, as I trust they will, that the Nestorian Christians are indeed the representatives and lineal descendants of the Ten Tribes, his attention will naturally revert to the prophecies which relate, either wholly or in part, to the house of Israel ; and he will return to their perusal with increased interest, perhaps with clearer light. It is to be hoped, also, that he will excuse the author, if, under such circumstances, he has allowed his mind to range somewhat widely over the field of prophecy, and has appeared to encroach upon the peculiar province of the Biblical critic. Whatever may be thought of these speculations, it should be remembered that they in no way affect the facts we have adduced in relation to the main question, to the examination of which this work is chiefly devoted. .

The small map which accompanies this work does not pretend to minute accuracy, but will be found to be more correct than any which has preceded it. It has been mostly compiled from one in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain for 1840, with the exception of that part of the country which had not been explored prior to my visit.

A2 v1 PREFACE.

The chief contributions to geographical knowl edge which I have been enabled to make, excepting the observations which relate to the country of the ten tribes, are, Ist, that the Hakary and Zab rivers of former maps are only two names for one and the same stream; and, 2d, that the Habor rises in a different place and pursues a different course from what had been previously supposed. The former I have delineated upon the map from observations made with my compass; the latter, as described to me from time to time by the natives upon its borders.

In conclusion I would remark, that if my humble efforts prove the means of increasing the interest which has begun to be awakened in behalf of the Nestorian Christians, I shall return with renewed zeal to my arduous labours, cheered with the anticipation that a brighter day is about to dawn upon the remnant of Israel which is left from Assyria, and, through them, upon the Gentile world.

Chapter I

Nestorian Mission.—Importance of a Physician.—Embarcation.— Smyrna. — Constantinople. — Black Sea. — Trebizonde. — Tabreez.—Ooroomiah.—Character of the Nestorians.—Notice of the Mission.—Description of the Country.—Independent NestoeeeenOCUs oS ee eee ne ek eee, eee 1S

Chapter II

Practicability of visiting the Mountain Nestorians.—Journey to Constantinople.—Storm in the Mountains.—Journey to Mesopotamia, Diarbékir, and Mardin.—Providential Escape. . 25

CHAPTER IIl.

Departure from Mardin.—Plain of Mesopotamia.—Mésul.—Ruins of Nineveh.—Yezidees, or Worshippers of the Devil . . 36

CHAPTER IV. r

Battle-ground of Alexander.—Akra and its Scenery.—Reception by a Koordish Chief—Journey to Amadieh. . . . . . 51

CHAPTER V.

Arrival at Diree.—Intercourse with the Nestorian Bishop.—View from the Mountains.—Arrival among the Independent Tnibes.— Remarkable Incident.--Kind Reception . . . ... . 65

CHAPTER VI.

Nestorians.—Churches.—Worship.—Sabbath.—A Tale.—Preservation of the Scriptures.—Strife with the Koords.—Pastoral Life.—Resources.—Character—Females . ..... 77

Vili CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIL.

Mountain Bridges.—Defiles—Medical Practice.—Roads.—Arrival at the Patriarch’s.—Kind Reception.—Character of the Patriarch.—Social Intercourse.—Ruined Castle-—Female Fidelity.—Church Government.—Patriarch’s Family . Page 95

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from the Patriarch’s.—Journey through the Mountains. —Visit to a Koordish Chief.—Scenes in the Castle.—Arrival at Ooroomiah.—Patriarch’s Letter.—Return to the Mountains.— WeaGit GD SULATBOTE ucts ye cn ce ak he 3 sh ee

CHAPTER IX.

Hospitality of the People-—Return by way of Van.—Night in the Valley.—Visit to Koordish Villages.—Pastoral Life.—Death of Shultz.—Van.—Interview with the Hakary Chief.—Change of his Relations.—Incident among the Koords. . . . . . 117

PART IL

CHAPTER I.

The Revolt of the Ten Tribes.—Their Idolatry.—Captivity.— Are lost sight of in History —Not yet found.—Their separate Existence highly probable. — Difficulties of the Subject. — Its interesting Nature, and great Importance .. . . . . 127

CHAPTER II.

Tradition of the Nestorian Christians that they are Descendants of Israel.—That they came from Palestine.—Supported by the Testimony of Jews and Mohammedans ......... Jl

CHAPTER IIL

The Places to which the Ten Tribes were deported: Assyria, Halah, Habor, Gozan, Hara, Media.—Now occupied by the Nestorian Christians.—But few nominal Jews in these Places 153

CONTENTS. ix

Chapter IV

The Ten Tribes have not been removed from Assyria.—Historical Proof.—Various circumstantial Evidence.—Inference from the Prophetical Writings . . ...... =... . Page 166

Chapter V

Their Language.—The same as that spoken by the Jews in their Region.—Evidence derived from it that they came from Palestine or Syria.—That they are Descendants of Israel, and not of ae a ead ele eto es RS Te a RES

Chapter VI

Names applied to the Nestorian Christians.—Proof derived of their Hebrew Origin. —Beni Israel.—Nazareans.— Syrians. — _ Chaldeans. —N estorians not appropriate-—Why used . . 192

CHAPTER VIL.

Observance of the Mosaic Ritual.—Sacrifices.— Vows.—First-fruits and Tithes.—Keeping the Sabbath.— Regard for the Sanctuary.—Forbidden Food.—Ceremonial Impurities.—Separation eC tke is tk ay Ke ese oo aM ll 8 ce en

CHAPTER VIIL

Physiognomy. — Names. — Tribes. — Government. — Avenger of Blood.—Cities of Refuge.—Sentiments regarding the Jews.— Various Proofs that they are a distinct People or an unmixed sg ware oi i eM ke Sete 8 eae

CHAPTER IX.

Social and domestic Customs.—Forms of Salutation.—Hospitality.—Regard for the Poor.—Entertainments.—Dress, — Omaments.—Espousals.—Marriage.—Children.—T heir Occupations. —The same as those of the ancient Israelites . . . . . 238

CHAPTER X.

-The Conversion of the Ten Tribes to Christianity . . . . 254 x CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

Scriptural Proof of their Conversion.—Speech of Paul.—Epistle ME: FAMOS 5 vo > 5-9. faey Bee pales vs smyona a ooh ane

CHAPTER XII.

Prophecies relating to the Conversion of the Ten Tribes, and their futare. Prospects + cote bs use gis Mua siege lie. aun es PART TEL

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THE PROPHESYING OF THE WITNESSES ... ... . 313

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Appendix

[A.J—THE YEZIDEES | 053) oo: isade. swipe «lw tele Henn nee {B.]—HISTORY OF THE NESTORIAN MISSIONS . . .. . 372 [C.]—JEWs OF MEDIA AND ASSYRIA. . . .... . « 380

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Chapter I

Nestorian Mission.—Importance of a Physician.—Embarcation.— Smyrna. — Constantinople. — Black Sea. — Trebizonde. — Tabreez.—Ooroomiah.—Character of the Nestorians.—Notice of the Mission.—Description of the Country.—Independent Nestorians.—Koords.

‘Tue Nestorian Christians, so memorable in the early annals of the Church, are emerging from that state of obscurity in which they have for many ages been almost lost sight of by the civilized world.

In consequence of the favourable report of Messrs. Smith and Dwight, who visited the Nestorians in Persia in the spring of 1831, under the patronage of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, that body soon resolved upon the formation of a mission among that interesting branch of the primitive Church. It was an untried and difficult field, but fraught, as was believed, with the brightest promise. At their annual meeting, held at Utica, N. Y., Oct., 1834, the Board of Missions presented a convincing and urgent plea for a suitable physician to engage in the incipient labours of that important mission.

The healing art, it was believed, might procure favour and protection, by affording convincing

14 EMBARCATION.—ROUTE.

proof of the benevolence of our motives; for it is well known that to relieve the sufferings of the body is the most ready way of access to the heart. It would also procure access to places where none but a physician could go. But for more than a year the call had gone through the length and breadth of the land, and not a physician could be found to go.

In view of these considerations, [ abandoned an increasing and delightful circle of practice in Utica, and, with Mrs. Grant, was on my way to Persia the following spring.

A pleasant voyage of forty-eight days brought us to Smyrna, the site of one of the Seven Churches in Asia. From thence, one of the first of those numerous steamers, which are now producing such changes in the East, conveyed us to Constantinople, the proud metropolis of Turkey. No steamer then ploughed the waves of the stormy Euxine, and we were wafted by the winds in a small American-built English schooner—once a slaver —to the port of Trebizonde.

From the shores of the Black Sea, the saddle became our only carriage for seven hundred miles, over the mountains and plains of Armenia to the sunny vales of Persia. On the loftier mountain summits, a corner of a stable sheltered us from the cold and storms: by the verdant banks of the Euphrates, and beneath the hoary summit of

ARRIVAL IN PERSIA. 15

Mount Ararat, we reposed under the canopy of our tent, while the bales and boxes of merchandise from the seven hundred horses and mules which composed our caravan, were thrown around in a hollow square, and served as a temporary fortress to protect us from the predatory Koords by whom we were surrounded. An escort of armed horsemen had been furnished by the pasha of Erzeroom to guard the caravan, and the stillness of the midnight hour was broken by the cry of the faithful sentinel who kept watch to warn us of danger. The strange customs and usages of an Oriental land, and the thousand novelties of the Old World, served to while away the hours as we pursued our onward course for twenty-eight days at the slow pace of an Eastern caravan.

We arrived at Tabreez, one of the chief commercial cities of Persia, on the 15th of October, 1835, and met with a cordial reception from the few English residents in the place, and from our respected associates, the Rev. Justin Perkins and lady, who had preceded us to this place. From his excellency the Right Honourable Henry Ellis, the British ambassador and envoy extraordinary at the court of Persia, with whom we had already formed a pleasant acquaintance at Trebizonde, we received the kindest offers of aid and protection; and I seize this occasion to acknowledge the same kind and unremitted favours

16 FAVOURABLE RECEPTION.

fromm his successors and other English gentlemen with whom we have met in the East.

After resting a few days at Tabreez, I proceeded to Ooroomiah, to make arrangements for the commencement of our contemplated station among the Nestorians in that province. My professional character secured the favour of the governor and of the people generally. Comfortable houses were soon provided, and on the 20th of November my associate arrived with our ladies. We entered upon our labours under the most encouraging auspices, and they have gone on prosperously up to the present time.

The sick, the lame, and the blind gathered around by scores and hundreds, and my fame was soon spread abroad through the surrounding country. We were regarded as public benefactors, and our arrival was hailed with general joy. The Nestorians, in particular, welcomed us with the greatest kindness and affection. Their bishops and priests took their seats at our table, bowed with us at our family altar, drank in instruction with childlike docility, and gave us their undivided influence and co-operation in the prosecution of our labours among their people. They regarded us as coadjutors with them in a necessary work of instruction and improvement, and not as their rivals or successors. We had come, not to pull down, but to build up ; to promote knowledge and piety, and — not to war against their external forms and rites,

CHARACTER OF THE NESTORIANS. 17

We found much in their character to raise our hopes. They have the greatest reverence for the Scriptures, and were desirous to have them diffused among the people in a language which all could understand. In their feelings towards other sects , they are charitable and liberal. In their forms, more simple and scriptural than the papal and the other Oriental churches. They abhor image worship, auricular confession, and the doctrine of purgatory ; and hence they have broad common eround with Protestant Christians, so that, not inappropriately, they have been called the Protestants of Asia.

But they had, as a people, sunk into the darkness of ignorance and superstition : none but their clergy could read or write; the education of their females was entirely neglected ; and they attached great importance to their numerous fasts and feasts, to the neglect of purity of heart and life. Still there are some who now appear to lead exempla~ ry lives, and to sigh over the degradation of their people. Indeed, we cannot but hope that something of vital piety may have continued to burn upon their altars from the earliest ages of the Church, and we trust it will again shine forth in a resplendent flame.

In such a state of things, it is not surprising that we have been permitted to prosecute our labours

B2

18 MISSIONARY LABOURS.

without a breath of opposition from the ecclesiastics or the people.

Twelve or fourteen freeschools have been opened in the villages of the plain; a seminary and girls’ boarding-school have been established on the Mission premises in the city ; considerable portions of the Scriptures have been translated into the vernacular language of the Nestorians. They have opened their churches for our Sabbath-schools and the preaching of the gospel; native helpers are being raised up and qualified for usefulness; our mission has been re-enforced by accessions from America, and a press, with suitable type, has been sent out.

The Rey. A. L. Holladay and Mr. William R. Stocking arrived with their wives, June 6th, 1837 ; Rey. Willard Jones and wife, November 7, 1839; Rey. A. H. Wright, M.D., July 25, 1840, and Mr. Edward Breath, a printer, has embarked with a press of such a construction as to admit of its transportation on horses from the shores of the Black Sea to Ooroomiah.

The province of Ooroomiah, in which the labours of the mission have thus far been prosecuted, comprises an important part of Ancient Media, and is situated in the northwestern part of the modern kingdom of Persia. It is separated by a lofty chain of snowy mountains from Ancient Assyria or Central Koordistan on the west; while on

VIEW OF OOROOMIAH. 19 the east the beautiful lake extends about eighty miles in length and thirty in width. The water of this lake is so salt that fish cannot live in it; its shores are enlivened by numerous water-fowl, of which the beautiful flamingo is most conspicuous, and sometimes lines the shore for miles in extent.

A plain of exuberant fertility is enclosed between the mountains and the lake, comprising an area of about five hundred square miles, and bearing upon its bosom no less than three hundred hamlets and villages. It is clothed with luxuriant verdure, fruitful fields, gardens, and vineyards, and irrigated by considerable streams of pure water from the adjacent mountains. The landscape is one of the most lovely in the East; and the effect is not a little heightened by the contrast of such surprising fertility with the stern aspect of the surrounding heights, on which not a solitary tree is to be seen ; while in the plain, the willows, poplars, and sycamores by the water-courses, the peach, apricot, pear, plum, cherry, quince, apple, and vine, impart to large sections the appearance of a rich, variegated forest.

Near the centre of this plain stands the ancient city of Ooroomiah, containing a population of about twenty thousand souls, mostly Mohammedans, and enclosed by a fosse and wall of nearly four miles in circuit. At a little distance on the east of the city an ancient artificial mound rises to.

20 CLIMATE.—PROPOSED TOUR.

the height of seventy or eighty feet, and marks the site, as it is said, of the ancient shrine or temple, where, in days of yore, the renowned Zoroaster kindled his sacred fires, and bowed in adoration to the heavenly hosts.

The climate is naturally very delightful; but, owing to local causes, a poisonous miasma is generated, occasioning fevers and the various diseases of malaria, to which the unacclimated stranger is specially exposed; and the mission families have suffered much from this cause. My late inestimable wife was the first victim of the climate we were called to mourn; and in her peaceful and triumphant death, she set the seal to the truths she had so faithfully taught and exemplified in her short but eventful life. She rested from her labours on the 12th of January, 1839 ; and her infant twin-daughters now repose by her side within the precincts of the ancient Nestorian church in the city of Ooroomiah.

In the month of February of that year I recenna instructions from the Board of Missions to proceed into Mesopotamia, to form a station among the Nestorians dwelling, as was supposed, on the west of the central mountains of Koordistan. By this. means it was hoped that a safe way of access might be found to the main body of the Nestorian Chris- , tians, the independent tribes which have their abode | in the most difficult fastnésses of the Koordish \

MOUNTAIN NESTORIANS.—KOORDS. 21 mountains in the centre of Ancient Assyria. Ihad | long regarded these mountain tribes as the principal field of our future labours. They comprised . the main body of the Nestorian Church, and it was of the highest importance to bring them at once under an enlightening influence, before they should become alarmed by changes that were occurring among their brethren of the plain. But the way of access to them appeared to be hedged round by the sanguinary Koords, by whom they are surrounded, and who had treacherously murdered Mr. Shultz, the only European who had attempted to reach the Nestorian tribes.

The Koords, to whom frequent allusion will be made, are a warlike race of people, inhabiting the mountainous country between Persia and Turkey —the ancient Gordian or Carduchian Mountains —and divided nominally between those two empires. But their more powerful tribes have seldom acknowledged more than a nominal allegiance to either of these governments; and some of them, as those of Hakary, have maintained an entire independence. A part of them are nomads, living in tents, and part of them stationary tenants of villages; but all more or less given to predatory habits. Their religion is professedly the faith of Islam. The following dialogue, which I held with one of the nomadic Koords and a Nestorian bishop, may serve to illustrate the character of this

22 DIALOGUE WITH A KOORD.

sanguinary people. Similar statements have frequently been made by other Koords, and confirmed by the Nestorians and Persians.

Myself. Where do you live ?

Koord. In black tents. We are Kouchee Koords.

MM. What is your occupation ?

Bishop. You need not ask him. I will tell you. They are thieves.

MM. Is that true, Koord ?

K. Yes, it is true. We steal whenever we can.

M. Do you kill people too ?

Kk. When we meet a man that we wish to rob, if we prove the strongest, we kill him. If he proves the strongest, he kills us.

JM. But suppose he offers no resistance when you attempt to rob him ?

K. If he have much property, we would kill him to prevent his making us trouble. If he had not much, we would let him go.

B. Yes, after you had whipped him well.

JM. Suppose you meet a poor man who had nothing but his clothes, what would you do? Would you molest him ?

K. If his clothes were good, we would take them and give him poor ones in | exchange. If not, we would let him pass.

JM. But this is a bad business in which you are engaged, of robbing people. Why do you not follow some other occupation ?

CHARACTER OF THE KOORDS. 23

K. What shall we do? We have no ploughs or fields ; and robbing is our trade.

M. The Persians will give you land if you will cultivate it.

K. We do not know how to work.

M. It is very easy to learn. Will you make the trial ?

B. He does not wish to work. He had rather steal.

K. He speaks the truth. It would be very difficult, and take a long time to get what we want by working for it; but by robbing a village, we can get a great deal of property in a single night.

M. But you are liable to be killed in these affrays.

K. Suppose we are killed. We must die some time, and what is the difference of dying now or a few days hence? When we rob a village, we go in large parties upon horses, surprise the villagers when they are asleep, and escape with their property before they are ready to defend themselves. If pursued by an army, we strike our tents and flee to our strongholds in the mountains.

M. Why do you not come and rob these villages, as you used to do?

B. They could not live if driven out of Persia. They fear the Persians.

K. We should have no other place to winter

24 KOORDS.

our flocks; so we give the Persians some presents, and keep at peace with them.

M. I wish to visit your tribe. How would they treat me ?

K. Upon my eyes, they would do everything for you. |

M. But you say they are thieves and murderers. Perhaps they would rob and kill me. ,

K. No, no; they wish to have you come, but you are not willing. We never rob our friends. You come to do good, and no one would hurt you.

JM. But many of them do not know me.

K. They have all heard of you, and would treat you with the greatest kindness if you should visit them.

DEPARTURE FROM OOROOMIAH. 25

Chapter II

Practicability of visiting the Mountain Nestorians,—Journey to Constantinople.—Storm in the Mountains.—Journey to Mesopotamia, Diarbékir, and Mardin.—Providential Escape.

A proTHer of the Nestorian patriarch, who visited us at Ooroomiah, and a Koordish chief whom I had seen in his castle at Burdasoor, had expressed the opinion that my professional character would procure me a safe passport to any part of the Koordish Mountains, and, from what I had learned in my frequent intercourse with the Koords, Thad reason to believe that I might safely pass through the Koordish territory and enter the country of the Independent Nestorians.

My own impressions were that I should be able to enter the country of the Independent Nestorians from the Persian frontier, and I advised this plan. But this was not assented to, and, in pursuance of the instructions of the Board to proceed by way of Mesopotamia, I set out from Ooroomiah on the first of April, 1839, for Erzeroom, where I had proposed to meet my expected associate, the Rey. Mr. Homes, of Constantinople, who was to be temporarily associated with me in this enterprise.

On my arrival at Salmas, I received a letter from him, apprizing me that the brethren at Con-

C

26 SKETCHES OF TRAVEL.

stantinople had decided against his entering upon the tour, under the apprehension that my late afflictions would put it out of my power to fulfil the plans of the Board in the formation of a permanent station. I looked upon this as another among the many indications of Providence which had come before us, in favour of my plan of entering the mountains from the Persian frontier. I wrote to our mission for advice, repeating my conviction of the importance of the measure I had before urged upon them, of entering the mountains before proceeding to Mesopotamia. The political state of the latter country was mentioned as one consideration in favour of this course. My letter was also accompanied by the assurance of the governor of Salmas, that he would do everything to secure the success of the enterprise, and that he did not doubt but the facilities he could furnish would enable me to go and return in safety. But still there was not a majority in the mission in favour of my entering the mountains, and I was advised to proceed to join Mr. Homes, and enter upon the proposed tour in Mesopotamia.

I accordingly proceeded with as much expedition as possible to Constantinople. An unusual quantity of snow had fallen late in the season, and my journey proved one of extreme difficulty and of no little peril. For more than two hundred miles I found the snow from two to three or four

SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 27 feet in depth, although it was the middle of April when I crossed this elevated portion of Armenia. On the great plain at the foot of Mount Ararat we encountered one of the most severe storms of snow I had ever experienced, and came near perishing in the mountains beyond, where the storm met us with increased fury. For more than twenty miles of this dreary road there was not a single human habitation. Our guide, about midway, became so much blinded by the snow that he could not keep the road, and I was obliged to take his place, and trust to the recollection of my former journey four years before, and the occasional traces of the path which was here and there swept bare by the driving wind. As we began to descend the mountains on the opposite side, where the wind had not done us this important service, I was obliged to walk several miles, tracing the narrow path in the deep snow with my feet. I could only determine when I was out of the old beaten path, which lay beneath the new-fallen snow, by the depth to which I sunk in the frosty element. Our horses also became almost buried in the snow the moment they stepped out of the road.

While crossing the plain near the head-waters of the Euphrates, where Xenophon and the Ten Thousand suffered so much in their memorable retreat, my Nestorian attendant, and a pilgrim who had joined us, became nearly blind from the continued

28 MOUNTAIN STORM.

intense glare of thesnow. This and a severe storm detained us two days at Moolah-Sooleiman, where we were most hospitably entertained in a stable, with forty or fifty head of horned cattle, horses, donkeys, and fowls, while the sheep occupied another apartment in the same house. In these and other particulars I found a striking coincidence with the experience of the brave Ten Thousand ; and the dwellings and habits of the people were essentially the same as those described by Xenophon more than two thousand years ago. The houses were built mostly under ground, and the villages at a distance resembled a collection of large coal-pits, but broader and not so high.

Our next stage was over the mountain-pass of Dahar, the most difficult between Constantinople and Persia. The recollection of what Messrs. Smith and Dwight experienced in their passage over this mountain, together with the fact that three natives had perished in the snow not long before, prepared me to expect a toilsome and difficult ride. But delay was not likely to make any improvement for many days to come ; and, moreover, a storm of rain had set in on the plain, which would soon quite obstruct the road, as the horse would sink to his middle at every step. As we began to ascend the mountain, we found the rain changed to snow, and accompanied by a strong wind, which soon increased to a gale. When about two thirds of the

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