Narrative of a three month's march in India; and a residence in the Dooab

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Preface

The following pages were written during the Author's absence from England, which consisted^only of the term of five years. In presenting them to the public, she is not actuated by the idea that she can add any thing to the fund of information which has already accumulated on the subject of our Eastern possessions; but by the feeling that there exist those who will peruse with pleasure a record of the varied hues which gild the ever-changing horizon of the traveller, and of the leading characteristics of those scenes into which so many of the youth of Britain now daily hasten to take a part.

That the observations here strung together have been arranged more with a view to entertain the young and inexperienced wanderer, than the scientific and matured traveller, she is ready to acknowledge.

A 3

VI PREFACE.

Most of the notes, as well as the drawings, were hastily made during the bustle and confusion attendant upon marching, but they are faithful representations; and whilst the notebook was the recipient of remarks and first impressions, the drawing pencil was ever the favourite companion of a more leisure hour.

Should there appear, in any of her pages, the slightest tinge of acrimony, it will, she trusts, be attributed to its true source, viz. regret at the sight of talents perverted, and time misapplied. That they are free from personal remarks she feels satisfied; and in the earnest hope that her volume may be the means of conveying entertainment to some, and ofience to no one, she requires only good humour in its perusal, and lenity to those imperfections which the distractions attendant upon a numerous family, and the faults of an inexperienced author, have necessarily induced. -

Guertuei/, Nov, 1840.

Chapter I

The Voyage. — Mussolmaan Ayah. — Prayers on Sun« days. — Storm. — Catching a Shark. — Pilot Fish.

— Funeral at Sea. — Crossing the Line. — Accustomed Ceremonies on the Occasion. — The Southern Constellations. — Capture of an Alhatross. -» The Cuddy Tahle in Rough Weather. — > Arrival in Simons Bay. — - Visit to Cape Town. — Exquisite Vegetation. — Beautiful Flowers. -— Fine Scenery. — Hottentots^ their degraded Condition. — Visit to Constantia. — Excellent Wines* — Divine Service on hoard a Man-of-War. — Perilous Return to Simon's Town. — Mode of Travelling. — Mountain Torrents. — A Weather Gall. — Magellan Clouds.

— Approach to the Madras Coast. — Phosphoric Lights. — Splendid Appearance of the Sea. — Flying Fish. - - - - Page I

CHAP. IL

Arrival at Madras. — Catamaran Boats. — High Surf.

— Wild Appearance of the Natives. ^— Their Officiousness to Strangers. — Description of a Gentleman's House and its Furniture. — St. George's Church. — Bishop Heber's Monument, by Chantrey.

— Languid Appearance of the Europeans. — Tatties.

— Jugglers. — Lizards. — Pagoda of Juggernaut. — The Hoogly. — The Approach to Calcutta. — Arrival at Calcutta. - ^ - 40 yill CONTENTS.

Chap. III

Description of Calcutta-. — A Ball at Government House. — Great Variety of Costumes. — English Ladies in Calcutta. — Effects of the Climate. — Defective Educations of most Anglo-Indian Ladies. — Fort William. — Immense Number of Crows. — Their Voracity. — The Adjutant Bird. — Jackals. -^ Cathedral. — Public Establishments. — Schools. — Museum. — Library of the Asiatic Society. — <. Ghits. — The Course. — Fashionable Drive. — Description of the Calcutta Houses. — Their internal Arrangement and Furniture. — Annoyance from Insects. — Hookahs. — First Importation of Ice. — The Governor-General's Country House at Barrackpore. — Serampore^ a Danish Settlement. — Chandernagore^ a French Settlement. — Numerous dead Bodies of Hindoos thrown into the Sacred River. — Ball at Government House in Honour of the King's Birthday. — Nautch at Chandemagore. — Nautch Girls. — Native Music. — Style of the Entertainment given by the rich Natives. — Preparations for the March. — Number of Servants requisite. Page 59

Chap. IV

The Regiment commences its March. — Its first Halt. — Numerical Strength of the Column, including Servants and Camp Followers. — Abundant Supplies of Provisions. — Daily Bazaars. — Necessity of speaking the Native Languages. — Crossing a Nullah by a Bridge of Boats. — Petty Disasters. — Elephants on a Suspension Bridge. — Their Fears. — Plassey, the Site of Lord Clive's Victory. — Berhampore^ its native Burying Ground. — Barracks. — Curious Adventure at the House of a Commissariat Officer. — Moorshedabad. — New Palace for the Rajah. — A new Way to pay old Debts. — Heavy Rains. — Bad

CONTENTS. IX

State of the Roads. — Beauty of the Trees and Scenery. — Arrival of the Regiment at the Banks of the Ganges. — Rajamahal^ Ruins of the Palace. — March through the Jungle. — The celebrated Pass of Terriagully. — Romantic Rocks in the Ganges near Colgong. - - Page 103

Chap. V

Bauglepore. — Musslemaun Tomb. — Sultan-gunge. — The Holy Mount Mandar. — The Sacred Well at

Seeta-coome. — Monghyr ; Salubrity of its Climate

Kindness of an English Missionary and his Family.

— Conversions among the Hindoos. — Hybut Gunge^ Mangoe Groves^ and Cotton Plantations. — H. M. 38th and l6th Regiments meet on the March. — Futwah. — The l6th meet H. M. 44th, and exchange Camels^ Tents, &c. — The Golah. 145

Chap. VI

Dlnapore. — Deegah Farm. — Hackeries pillaged. — Alarms of Thieves. — Fakir's Tomb at Moonear. — Mosque at Arrah. — Buxar. — Stud Establishment.

— Ghazeepore. — The Cantonments. — Church. — Lord Comwallis's Monument. — Rose Plantations.

— Process of Sugar-making. — Halt at Secrole. — Illness and Death of the Colonel. — Benares. — Aurengzebe's Mosque. — Description of Benares. — Its Fakirs and Mendicants. — Gross Superstition^f the Hindoos. — Brahminy Bulls and Monkies. — Richness of the Merchandize in the Shops. — Baboo Heridos's House. — Loosewallahs. — Attempt at Robbery. - - - - l6l

Chap. VII

Mohun ke Serai. — Great Utility of the Serai. — Description of a Loose- wallah. — Their Depredations in

X CONTENTS.

the Camp. — Mirzapore Carpets. -— Pilgriina. — Holy Water. — Allahabad, — Junction of the Jumna and (rangei. — - Deicription of the Fort at Allahabad. ^-A Colony of Fakiri. — Hindoo Mythology.— Prince Khoioroo'i Serai — iti exteniive (^ardeni. — Kurah — iti Fieldi of white Poppy. — Futtchpore. -— Danger of having Hortei poiioned by the Inhabitant!. • - - Page 19^

Chap. VIII

Arrival at Cawnpore. — Arranging an EitabliRhment. «- Falie Character! eaiily procured by Servanti. »- Inconvenience cauied by Servants. — Treatment of Bervanta. — Remarks of a converted Hindoo on the general Want of Veracity. — Some become Converts from Motives of Interest. ^- Habits of Life amongst the Anglo-Indians. - - • 212

Chap. IX

Gaiety caused by the frenh Arrival of a Regiment.— Fine Assembly Rooms at Cawnpore. — Strangers pay the first Visit of Oremony. — Theatre, — Amateur Playg. — A Church and a ('hapel built by Subscription. •— Excessive Heat (luring the Hot Winds. — A Tiffkun^ or Sand-storm. — Baneful KffecU of the Hot Winds, ^- A Famine and its dreadful Ravages amongst the Natives. — Native Marriage. — Brilliant Illuminations and Fireworks. — • Bridal Procession.-— A Flight of Locusts. - - 827

Chap. X

Primitive Mode of thrashing and grinding Corn, and of baking Bread. — Demoniacal Conduct of the Fakirs. — Utility of (/hunam. — Rapid Vegetation and Abundance of Fruit. — The Table much supplied with Vegetables, Fish, Fowl, and other Luxuries ftrom

CONTENTS. XI

England. — Hindoo Festivals. — Runaway Elephants.

— Midnight Processions. — A Party at the Nawah Nizam Ood'owlah's. — Introduction of the European Ladies into the Nawab's Zenanah. — Splendour of Visir Bahoo's Dress and of her Jewels. — The Roguery of a native Jeweller. — Misconduct of some young military Men at the Nawab's Fete. — Abstinence of the Musslemauns during the Mohurrun. — Their bitter Lamentations. - Pftge 245

Chap. XI

Ostentatious Habits of the Natives of India. — Their Propensity for lying. — Thuggee. — Its Origin traced to the earliest Times. — The Goddess Kalee the Patron of the Thugs. — The Exhibition of the Devourer of a whole Sheep. — Melancholy Reflections produced by witnessing the great Religious Festivals.

— Self-inflicted Tortures of the poor Idolaters. — The Suttee nearly abolished. — Destruction of Female Infants still practised by the higher Order of Hindoos. .... 275

CHAP. XIL

Expected Visit of the Commander-in-chief. — Bustle in the Camp. — Delight of living imder Canvass in fine Weather. — Grand military Evolutions at Cawnpore. — Ten thousand Men on the Field. — Savage Nature of the native Horses. — A fatal Accident the Consequence. • - - 287

CHAP. XIII. Want of Rain. — Prospect of another Famine

Dreadful Sickness and Mortality amongst the Troops. — Universal Dread of the Cholera. — Failure of the Crops. — Appalling Heat. — Two Ydars' Leave of i

Stii CONTENTfi.

Absence. — Sftle of Bungalow and iu EffecU. *— Preparation! for a Voyage down the Ganges.— Fare* well Viiits. - - . Page 297

Chap. XIV

Departjare from Cawnpore. — ^ Numberi of Monkey i. — Near Allahabad^ the Governor General'i Camp Equipage croties the River. — Self-inflicted Torturei of the Devoteea at Allahabad, — Tale of Allahabad. — Confluence of the Jumna and Ganges. — Jour de f^ of the Boat. — Honouri paid to it by the Crew. — Description of the Boat. — (Customs of the Boatmen. — ^Visits at Sultanpore and Dinapore. — The Steamers plying between Allahabad and ('alcutta. — Rapacity of the Wolves. -^ Moorshedabad. — The Nawab's new Palace. — Berhampore, — Chandenagore. — Arrival at Calcutta. • - - . $05

Chap. XV

Embarkation for England. — The Bustle and Confti. sion on board. — The Ship struck on a ShoaL ^- Imminent Danger of all on board. — A Mutiny amongst the Pigs. — A large Shoal of Porpoises. — The Ship anchors in Table Bay. — Annoyance from Rats on boar<l the Ship. — Disagreements amongst the Passengers. ... - sso

Chap. XVI

Hints to the Young and Inexperienced. — General Observations. — A general Inquisitiveness exists amongst the old Residents in India. — A Contrast between the Passengers in outward-bound and homeward-bound Ships. — Arrival in England. - 340

JOURNAL,

ETC.

CHAPTER I.

THE VOYAGE.

The Voyage. — Mnssulmaun Ayah. — Prayers on Sundays, — Storm, — Catching a Shark, — Pilot Fish, — Funeral at Sea, — Crossing the Line, — Accustomed Cet^emonies on the Occasion, — The Southern Constellations. — Capture of an Albatross, — The Cuddy Table in Rough Weather. — Arrival in Simons Bay. — Visit to Cape Town,

— Exquisite Vegetation, — Beautiful Flowers.—^ Fine Scenery. — Hottentots, their degraded Condition. — Visit to Constantia. — Excellent Wines,

— Divine Service on board a Man-of- War. — Perilous Return to Simon's Town. — Mode of Travelling . — Mountai^i Torrents. — A Weather Gale,

— Magellan Clouds. — Approach to the Madras Coa^t, — Phosphoric Lights. — Splendid Appearance of the Sea. — Flying Fish,

f^ E embarked at Gravesend for India, earlv in the year 1833, on board the ship Protector, now, alas ! a melancholy wreck, and in whose

B

2 MUSSULMAUN AYAH.

(leBtruction were involved the lives of upwards of 170 unfortunate beings.* Our fellow passengers were in number about twenty, of whom only two were young ladies bent upon the somewhat hazardous expedient of seeking friends and fortune in India ; the greater portion consisted of young cadets in the Honourable Company's Service, full of high hopes, and enjoying bright visions of futurity, just emancipated from Addiscombe, and overjoyed at their newly acquired freedom.

A Mussulmaun Ayah had been engaged to attend upon the ladies on board, and we were not a little amused by her appearance and manners; for as yet our eyes had not become accustomed to the thin muslin garments and gaudy ornaments of the East. Mona's ears wM<'e laden with rings and pendents of various forms; her black neck was encircled with in-

# The " Protector" wm loit during the past year, in the dan^eroui navigation of the Hund-heuda, at a moment \^'hen its many paoftengcra were hailing with delight the fipproacliing termination of their voyage. To onrselvcHp however, it gave safe conduct to the Eeatern Empire, and proved itielf an excellent lailer.

MUSSULMAUN AYAH« «5

numerable silver chains and ornaments; and her arms, from the wrist to the elbow, were encased in bracelets. Nor was this all ; for the upper part of her toes was covered with a kind of coat of mail, which passed for silver, and her insteps bore ponderous ornaments of the same .metal, at least an inch in thickness. When the sun shone on the deck, Mona was generally to be seen basking in his beams : her head, and the upper part of her person, were enveloped in thin muslin of the most dazzling whiteness ; by her side lay her richly embroidered slippers; and not unfrequently was she enjoying the luxurious hubble-bubble, or substitute for the hookah, used by the poorer classes of the natives of India.

During the early part of our voyage we ^had splendid weather ; indeed, to those who Jiad never left our foggy atmosphere before, it was quite enchanting. We experienced a moderate share of tossing in the Bay of Biscay; after which a rapid run, sometimes of 200 knots a day, brought us quickly to the Line. But here we had to encounter constant calms; the vast expanse around us presented an unruffled

B 2 i

4 CAPE ORTICOAL*

(Kurface, »o calm, so glassyt that we could scarcely believe it to be the same element which so frequently throws itself into such violent agitations. The only land which had met our view since we left our native shores, was a distant outline of Cape Ortegal, whose bold high land was visible at a distance of twenty or thirty utiles on a very clear morning.

After having passed the latitude of Madeira, the heat rapidly increased; but, although very nearly approaching the sun's path, the delicious sea breeze rendered the air of a delightful temperature, and the thermometer only attained (16^ in the shade. On entering the torrid zone, however, we were compelled to become more prudent than to expose ourselves to his rays; but an awning being suspended over the deck and poop, enabled us still to enjoy the open air, and to watch the constant changes and incidents which occurred. People talk of the tinliutn of itn Indian voyage: on our way out we knew it not; the days (lew quickly past, and only seemed too short for our wishes. On the return of each Sabbath, when the weather permitted, both passengers and ship's crew assembled on the

PRAYERS ON SUNDAY. 3

quarter-deck to join in prayer. The captain became the chaplain, and took his station at the capstan, over which was thrown that flag so dear to every British saUor, the Union Jack.

To me, this was always an imposing sight: many of the men were extremely devout, but scarcely any of them had either Bibles or Prayerbooks; consequently, having only occasional opportunities of receiving religious instruction, or joining in public prayer, how slight may its impression be upon their hearts, without the aid of private and more frequent remembrances of their duty I We neared the Cape de Verd Islands, but could not distinguish St. Antonio, although within only a few miles of it, owing to a transient density of the atmosphere.

The first storm it was our lot to encounter, overtook us when within a degree or two north of the Line : we had been becalmed for some days, when it suddenly burst upon us. The most terrific thunder pealed over our heads, . and the rain fell in torrents, so as utterly to astonish those who now beheld for the first time a tropical storm. The scene was grand and imposing, as I watched it from my cabin win-

B 3

6 CATCHING A SHARK.

dow: the flashes of lightning were incessant; and as the vessel heaved heavily to and fro, the sea might MveW be said to run mountains high ; at one moment far above us, at the next as mightily receding from our view. I clung to the window frames to enjoy the scene, for it was not without much difficulty that I could maintain my seat for a moment. On the morning after this interlude, the sea again presented an unruflled surface*; and the ship's crew were all on the qui vive to catch one of those monsters of the deep against which sailors are apt to wage such an endless war — a shark. The creature had been discovered lurking near the vessel, and several hooks were already baited for his reception, one of which he quickly seized, and the eager anglers were anxiously drawing him out of the water, when a desperate struggle, which almost brought his tail into our cabin window, set the captive free, and he was instantly lost to our sight : but it appeared that another and more eager enemy remained : in a few moments, we watched the advance of a second shark, which suddenly and courageously darting forward, in the manner so peculiar to the animal, turned

CATCHING A SHARK. 7

itself almost over in order to seize the bait, brought the under jaw upwards and greedilyswallowed the treacherous morsel. Only an anxious moment elapsed, ere he was secured, as the hook soon pierced his jaw ; but a considerable period intervened before he could be brought on board with safety ; his struggles were tremendous, and a noosed rope was thrown and secured round his body before he could be drawn up and brought to subjection. The unfortunate shark was nearly 14 feet in length, and met with a sharp reception from his natural foes, who seemed to entertain a demoniacal hatred towards him ; — scarcely had he attained the forecastle, when each man who could command a weapon, eagerly dashed it into his victim, and its carcass was soon severed into a hundred pieces. And after all this, what was the advantage to be gained ? None whatever ; the mangled body was consigned piecemeal to the deep, no doubt to become food for equally ravenous creatures ; as of the species to which he belonged the men would not eat, although of a smaller description of shark they are somewhat fond, and assert that its flesh resembles

B 4

8 PILOT FISH.

that of the ox. It was our lot to see several ISharks caught in the course of this and a subsequent voyage ; but the sport, if such it can be called, is in general much the same, though more art is undoubtedly required to harpoon the monster ; and this we saw done on several occasions. The shark is generally attended by one or more pilot-fish, — elegant little creatures with backs striped alternately black and white : they are about a foot in length, and are said to be excellent eating; but why this timid little creature bestows its company so constantly upon its huge acquaintance, appears a marvel, and must be left for naturalists to decide.

Two sucking fish were attached to the shark whose capture is above described : this likewise is a peculiarity which generally attends them. The sucking fish is not commonly more than four inches long, but is endowed with the power of attaching itself to any substance with extraordinaiy tenacity; indeed, so strongly does it maintain its hold, that it will sometimes suffer itself to be torn in twain rather than withhold its resistance.

Still nearer the Line, our voyage was rather

A MAD DOG, 9

devoid of external interest, as we had constant calms, or baffling and contrary winds : this drove most of the passengers to their scanty libraries for occupation ; and some of lis were not sorry for the temporary repose. Our bookshelves, escritoires, and drawing-books always afforded an agreeable resource from ennui; besides which, had our own supply of books failed, there were those on board, who were both able and glad to exchange their stores with ours according as circumstances offered. On one evening during this tropical heat, a dog which belonged to the captain appeared in a rabid state, and threw the community into confusion; it made a violent dash at the cuddy window, attracted thither by the lights in the interior, but fortunately was prevented entering, — neither did he succeed in seizing any one on the deck : the alarmed crew were dispersed in all directions ; two or three were standing on the capstan, more of them up the rigging, and all in a state of the greatest excitement; since no harm occurred, we could laugh at the ridiculous recollection of that evening, for fear caused strange contortions in some of the men's countenances; however,

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10 FUNERAL AT SEA.

after the lapse of a short time, the poor creature in its agony ran on the chains, and immediately fell overboard.

At this period we lost by death one of the passengers ; whose health, however, even when leaving England, was not such as to admit of the h(;jpe of his reaching the shores of India alive. He was a young officer in the Company's Artillery, and had been for some time in a declining state. His death was the most melancholy of which I have ever heard mention : his last days were agony and despair ; and, far from those who were bound to him by kindred ties, his eyes were closed by the stranger, and liis last moments embittered by miserable recollections. He died a few hours before sunrise; and at four o'clock on that day, the crew and some of the passengers assembled on the quarter-deck to consign his body to the deep.

The Union Jack concealed the coffin from view ; the captain read the form appointed for the service of sea burial, at a given signal the supports were removed, and the coffin was allowed to fall from the gangway iiito the ocean ; it floated as long as it remained in sight; but

CROSSING THE LINE. 11

we were soon wafted far away, as a breeze had sprung up, and we were going at the rate of ten knots : the gloom, which for a few moments had spread over the assembly, was dispelled, and all faces again wore their accustomed expression. I have seen many funerals at sea, but this first and saddest has left the deepest traces on my recollection.

We crossed the Line at eight o'clock p. m. on the 8th of June, and the ship was immediately hailed by the presiding deity of the Ocean, who promised us a visit in due form on the following morning, and warned us to hold ourselves in readiness for his arrival. After this notice, his godship was supposed to disappear in the form of a blazing tar barrel.

At an early hour the next day, true to his word, and clad in sea-weed, old Neptune stept on board ; he was accompanied by Amphitrite and Triton (which latter sounded a trumpet in honour of his father in no measured strains). An uncouth doctor, a barber, a bear, and nondescript followers in abundance, swelled the train of the Sea deity, who advanced to the quarter-deck and graciously shook hands with

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12 CROSSING THE LINE.

the captain. Liberal portions of grog were immediately presented, to which Amphitrite especially seemed particularly partial ; and perhaps, to do her justice, she was the best dressed figure in the group, personated by one of the most athletic sailors on board.

All the passengers who had not previously crossed the Line, were then presented to the notice of the visiters, and were expected to make a certain donation in money or tobacco ; failing which, they subjected themselves to a sufficiently severe infliction ere they could consider themselves free of the Line. A number of young jailors and midshipmen were in this predicament, and were most unceremoniously treated. Placed blindfold on the edge of a huge barrel of water, certain questions as to parentage and education. See. were propounded to the stranger, which by coercive measures he was compelled to answer ; when, no sooner was the mouth opened, than a brush, newly dipped in hir, was inserted into it, the face being likewise besmeared with the same abominable substance: the barber, moreover, was at hand to accomplish his part of the farce; and with no gentle hand, first feathered and then made pretence to shave

CEREMONIES ON THE OCCASION. 13

the tormented one : this was done with a piece of rusty iron ; and when accomplished, a hasty ablution was performed by a sudden and enforced somerset into the water. Some of the younkers, we were informed, caused very good sport; but the scene, although carried on with sufficient good humour, soon became of too riotous a nature to admit of our long remaining witnesses to it I believe all the sailors luxuriated in a bath on the occasion ; for each man, arming himself with a bucket, splashed water upon every person who ventured before the mast. The evening was closed by some tolerable songs and rather good^ hornpipes performed by the ship's crew, the heroes of the day.

A few days "afterwards we spoke a vessel from Valparaiso, bound to Bahia and thence to England: this afforded us an opportunity of sending letters home, of which we gladly took advantage. The captain and crew of the vessel in question gave a terrible account of their sufferings from cold off Cape Horn, and described icebergs of considerable magnitude as having approached them very closely, Om* weather was now delightful, and with favourable winds we soon

14 THE SOUTHERN CONSTELLATIONS.

again left the torrid zone. Quantities of Cape pigeons then became visible, — a few of which were made prisoners by hook and line; but they lose their beauty when closely inspected, and the elegance, which their motions on the water present, is changed to awkwardness when their web feet and bad gait are exhibited on board a vessel. Numbers of them were cruelly slaughtered by idle and thoughtless young voyagers, who chose to make these tame and harmless little animals, marks on which to exercise their shooting powers.

Our starlit nights were extremely grand. The Southern Constellations were for the first time over our heads, amongst which the Cross shone pre-eminent, whilst our old acquaintance the Great Bear was almost lost to view. In lat. 27** South, and about 34<' of West long., we first saw the Magellan clouds ; some on board, I believe^ among the night watchers, had seen them a few nights earlier than we did. The largest of these extraordinary phenomena was over the Southern Cross, and appeared like a dark cloud, tlirough which, however, stars were visible; whilst the others resembled detached

CAPTURE OF AN ALBATROSS. 15

parts of the Milky Way, and were nearer Argo* navis.

About the same degree of South latitude we caught sight of the mighty Albatross wheeling its rapid flight — at one moment close to the vessel, at the next far away on the distant horizon : one, however, was disabled and captured by a tolerably expert marksman, and a boat put off to fetch it on board. It measured twelve feet from the tip of one wing to that of the other, and being an old one was nearly white : when in the prime of life, they have deep brown backs and wings, and sometimes attain a larger growth than the one we saw.

The first day of July brought with it several untoward events. The weather was extremely tempestuous, consequently falls and overturns were numerous. Early in the morning, my poor old Ayah was handing me a cup of tea, whilst I dung to my cot with the greatest difficulty; when the vessel rolled violently, and sent Mona sprawling on the cabin floor, now to larboard, now to starboard: crashed were the cup and saucer into a thousand pieces, whilst the hot beverage ran in every direction ; but poor

16 THE CUDDY TABLE IN ROUOH WEATHEH.

Mona had the worst of the bu8ines8, for in vain did she attempt to seize hold of any substantial article of furniture; every thing eluded her graspi and slie was sadly bruised before she could recover herself. In the midst of this trouble, my writing desk escaped from its lashings ; when down it went, its well-filled ink-stand throwing the sable fluid over every thing that came in its way. Wc were each moment reminded th%t we were off the terrible and appropriately termed Cape of Tempests : at the cuddy table an accumulation of mishaps occurred; a servant was crossing the quarter-deck laden with a covered dish, when a sea struck the vessel and overthrew the unfortunate man, who was instantly thoroughly drenched with salt water, whilst the broken crockery revealed to our view the scattered ingredients of a savoury Irish stew. Tlie cuddy table presented no ordinary appearance : every article that could by any possibility alter its position, traversed the table; pies, biscuittrays, dishes, &c. &c., all were in motion ; the leg of mutton, rolling in grotesque irregularity, once more came in contact with its kindred shoulder; poultry and pork were again in motion,