The Nestorians; or, The Lost Tribes. Containing evidence of their identity; an account of their manners, customs and ceremonies; together with sketches of travel in ancient Assyria, Armenia, Media and Mesopotamia, and illustrations of Scripture prophecy

Preface

. The following pages are submitted to the public with great deference. They were written partly amid the incessant toils of a missionary life, and partly during my homeward voyage. The constant pressure of other cares, and imperative duties, during my transient stay in my native land, has left no opportunity for re writing the manuscript, and for correcting inaccu racies of style incident to an inexperienced writer, under circumstances so obviously unfavourable to careful composition. , But while, with this explanation, I would solicit the reader's indulgence in regard to the style and form of this essay, I am aware that whatever real value it may be found to possess, will depend essentially upon the facts it embodies. In this respect no effort has been spared to ensure accuracy. Constant attention to my duties as a missionary physician has brought me in contact with almost every class of the people among whom I have travelled or sojourned, and has greatly multiplied my opportunities for observation.

My pro fessional character has procured me ready access to the retirement of the harem, and the social and domestic circles of all classes of the people. Every important particular has been carefully noted down on the spot, a

PREFACE.

. and I have endeavoured to preserve my mind from prejudice, and to guard against every source of error. I trust, therefore, that the facts here recorded, so far as they are derived from personal observation, will be deemed worthy of confidence. The public must decide whether the conclusions to which I have arrived are warranted by the data. I have only to remark, that these facts forced themselves upon my attention, and were not sought for to confirm a previously-formed theory. If the facts and arguments embodied in this work should convince the candid reader, as I trust they will, that the Nestorian Christians are indeed the re presentatives and lineal descendants of the Ten Tribes, his attention will naturally revert to the prophecies which relate, either wholly or in part, to the house of Israel ; and he will return to their perusal with in creased interest, perhaps with clearer light.

It is to be hoped, also, that he will excuse the author, if, under such circumstances, he has allowed his mind to range somewhat widely over the field of prophecy, and has appeared to encroach upon the peculiar province of the biblical critic. Whatever may be thought of these speculations, it should be remembered that they in no way affect the facts we have adduced in relation to the main question, to the examination of which this work is chiefly devoted. The small map which accompanies this work does not pretend to minute accuracy, but will be found to be more correct than any which has preceded it. It lias been mostly compiled from one in the Journal of

PREFACE.

. V the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain for 1840, with the exception of that part of the country which had not been explored prior to my visit, con cerning which very little was known. In conclusion I would remark, that if my humble efforts prove the means of increasing the interest which has begun to be awakened in behalf of the Nestorian Christians, I shall return with renewed zeal to my arduous labours, cheered with the anticipation that a brighter day is about to dawn upon the remnant of Israel which is left from Assyria, and, through them, upon the Gentile world. ■vu CONTENTS.

Part I. Chapter

I. PAOE Nestorian Mission— Importance of a Physician — Embarkation — Smyrna — Constantinople — Black Sea — Trebizonde — Tabreez— Ooroomiah— Character of the Nestorians— Notice of the Mission -— Description of the Country — Independent Nestorians — Koords .......... 3

Chapter IX

Hospitality of the People— Return by way of Van— Night in tbe Valley — Visit to Koordish Villages — Pastoral Life — Death of Shultz— Van— Interview with the Hakary Chief— Change of his Relations— Incident among the Koords .

Part II. Chapter

X. The Revolt of the Ten Tribes— Their Idolatry— Captivity— Are lost sight of in History — Not yet found — Their separate Existence highly probable — Difficulties of the Subject— Its interesting Nature, and great Importance . . . . . . 109

I.] 3 NESTORIAN MISSION.

Chapter I

Nestorian Mission — Importance of a Physician — Embarkation — Smyrna — Constantinople — Black Sea — Trebizonde — Tabreez — Ooroomiah— Character of the Nestorians — Notice of the Mission — Description of the Country— Independent Nestorians— Koords. The Nestorian Christians, so memorable in the early annals of the Church, are emerging from that state of obscurity in which they have for many ages been almost lost sight of by the civilized world. In consequence of the favourable report of Messrs. Smith and Dwight, who visited the Nestorians in Persia in the spring of 1831, under the patronage of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, that body soon resolved upon the formation of a mission among that interesting branch of the primitive Church. It was an untried and difficult field, but fraught, as was believed, with the brightest promise.

At their annual meeting, held at Utica, N. Y., October, 1834, the Board of Missions presented a convincing and urgent plea for a suitable physician to engage in tbe incipient labours of that important mission. The healing art, it was believed, might procure favour and protection, by affording convincing proof of the benevolence of our motives; for it is well known that to relieve the sufferings of the body is the most ready way of access to the heart. It would also B EMBARKATION ROUTE. [CHAP. E procure access to places where none but a physician could go. But for more than a year the call had gone through the length and breadth of the land, and not a physician could be found to go. In view of these considerations, I abandoned an in creasing and delightful circle of practice in Utica, and, with Mrs. Grant, was on my way to Persia the following spring.

A pleasant voyage of forty-eight days brought us to Smyrna, the site of one of the Seven Churches in Asia. From thence, one of the first of those numerous steamers, which are now producing such changes in the East, conveyed us to Constantinople, the proud metropolis of Turkey. No steamer then ploughed the waves of the stormy Euxine, and we were wafted by the winds in a small American-built English schooner — once a slaver — to the port of Trebizonde. From the shores of the Black Sea, the saddle be came our only carriage for seven hundred miles, over the mountains and plains of Armenia to the sunny vales of Persia. On the loftier mountain summits, a corner of a stable sheltered us from the cold and storms : by the verdant banks of the Euphrates, and beneath the hoary summit of Mount Ararat, we re posed under the canopy of our tent, while the bales and boxes of merchandise from the seven hundred horses and mules which composed our caravan were thrown around in a hollow square, and served as a temporary fortress to protect us from the predatory Koords by whom we were surrounded.

An escort of armed horsemen had been furnished by the pasha of CHAP. I.] 5 ARRIVAL IN PERSIA. Erzeroom to guard the caravan, and the stillness of the midnight hour was broken by the cry of the faithful sen tinel who kept watch to warn us of danger. The strange customs and usages of an Oriental land, and the thousand novelties of the Old World, served to while away the hours as we pursued our onward course for twenty eight days at the slow pace of an Eastern caravan. We arrived at Tabreez, one of the chief commercial cities of Persia, on the 15th of October, 1835, and met with a cordial reception from the few English residents in the place, and from our respected associates, the Rev. Justin Perkins and lady, who had preceded us to this place. From his Excellency the Right Honourable Henry Ellis, the British ambas sador and envoy extraordinary at the court of Persia, with whom we had already formed a pleasant ac quaintance at Trebizonde, we received the kindest offers of aid and protection ; and I seize this occasion to acknowledge the same kind and unremitted favours from his successors and other English gentlemen with whom we have met in the East.

After resting a few days at Tabreez, I proceeded to Ooroomiah, to make arrangements for the commence ment of our contemplated station among the Nesto rians in that province. My professional character secured the favour of the governor and of the people generally. Comfortable houses were soon provided, and on the 20th of November my associate arrived with our ladies. We entered upon our labours under the most encouraging auspices, and they have gone on prosperously up to the present time. [chap. I. 6 FAVOURABLE RECEPTION. The sick, the lame, and the blind gathered around by scores and hundreds, and my fame was soon spread abroad through the surrounding country. We were regarded as public benefactors, and our arrival was hailed with general joy. The Nestorians, in parti cular, welcomed us with the greatest kindness and affection.

Their bishops and priests took their seats at our table, bowed with us at our family altar, drank in instruction with child-like docility, and gave us their undivided influence and co-operation in the prosecu tion of our labours among their people. They regarded us as coadjutors with them in a necessary work of instruction and improvement, and not as their rivals or successors. We had come, not to pull down, but to build up ; to promote knowledge and piety, and not to war against their external forms and rites. We found much in their character to raise our hopes. They have the greatest reverence for the Scriptures, and were desirous to have them diffused among the people in a language which all could understand. In their feelings towards other sects they are charitable and liberal ; in their forms, more simple and scrip tural than the Papal and the other Oriental churches.

They abhor image-worship, auricular confession, and the doctrine of purgatory ; and hence they have broad common ground with Protestant Christians, so that, not inappropriately, they have been called the Protest ants of Asia. But they had, as a people, sunk into the darkness of ignorance and superstition : none but their clergy CHAP. I.] 7 MISSIONARY LABOURS. could read or write ; the education of their females was entirely neglected ; and they attached great im portance to their numerous fasts and feasts, to the neglect of purity of heart and life. Still there are some who now appear to lead exemplary lives, and to sigh over the degradation of their people. Indeed, we cannot but hope that something of vital piety may have continued to burn upon their altars from the earliest ages of the Church, and we trust it will again shine forth in a resplendent flame.

In such a state of things, it is not surprising that we have been permitted to prosecute our labours without a breath of opposition from the ecclesiastics or the people. Twelve or fourteen free-schools have been opened in the villages of the plain ; a seminary and girls' board ing-school have been established on the Mission pre mises in the city ; considerable portions of the Scrip tures have been translated into the vernacular language of the Nestorians. They have opened their churches for our Sabbath-schools and the preaching of the Gos pel ; native helpers are being raised up and qualified for usefulness; our mission lias been reinforced by accessions from America'; and a press, with suitable type, has been sent out. The Rev. A. L. Holladay and Mr. William R. Stock ing arrived with their wives, June 6th, 1837; Rev. Willard Jones and wife, November 7, 1839; Rev. A. H. Wright, M.D., July 25, 1840 ; and Mr. Edward Breath, a printer, has embarked with a press of such a construction as to admit of its transportation on [CHAP. 1. 8 VIEW OF OOROOMIAH. horses from the shores of the Black Sea to Ooroo miah.

The province of Ooroomiah, in which the labours of the mission have thus far been prosecuted, comprises an important part of Ancient Media, and is situated in the north-western part of the modern kingdom of Persia. It is separated by a lofty chain of snowy mountains from Ancient Assyria or Central Koor distan on the west ; while on the east the beautiful lake extends about eighty miles in length and thirty in width. The water of this lake is so salt that fish cannot live in it : its shores are enlivened by numerous water-fowl, of which the beautiful flamingo is most conspicuous, and sometimes lines the shore for miles in extent. A plain of exuberant fertility is enclosed between the mountains and the lake, comprising an area of about five hundred square miles, and bearing upon its bosom no less than three hundred hamlets and villages.

It is clothed with luxuriant verdure, fruitful fields, gardens, and vineyards, and irrigated by considerable streams of pure water from the adjacent mountains. The landscape is one of the most lovely in the East ; and the effect is not a little heightened by the contrast of such surprising fertility with the stern aspect of the surrounding heights, on which not a solitary tree is to be seen ; while in the plain, the willows, poplars, and sycamores by the water-courses, the peach, apricot, pear, plum, cherry, quince, apple, and vine, impart to large sections the appearance of a rich, variegated forest. Near the centre of this plain stands the ancient city CHAP. I.] CLIMATE PROPOSED TOUR. 9 of Ooroomiah, containing a population of about twenty thousand souls, mostly Mohammedans, and enclosed by a fosse and wall of nearly four miles in circuit.

At a little distance on the east of the city an ancient artificial mound rises to the height of seventy or eighty feet, and marks the site, as it is said, of the ancient shrine or temple, where in days of yore the renowned Zoroaster kindled his sacred fires, and bowed in adora tion to the heavenly hosts. The climate is naturally very delightful ; but owing to local causes a poisonous miasma is generated, occa sioning fevers and the various diseases of malaria, to which the unacclimated stranger is specially exposed ; and the mission families have suffered much from this cause. My late inestimable wife was the first victim of the climate we were called to mourn ; and in her peaceful and triumphant death, she set the seal to the truths she had so faithfully taught and exemplified in her short but eventful life.

She rested from her la bours on the 12th of January, 1839; and her infant twin-daughters now repose by her side within the pre cincts of the ancient Nestorian church in the city of Ooroomiah. In the month of February of that year I received instructions from the Board of Missions to proceed into Mesopotamia, to form a station among the Nes torians dwelling, as was supposed, on the west of the central mountains of Koordistan. By this means it was hoped that a safe way of access might be found to the main body of the Nestorian Christians, the inde pendent tribes which have their abode in the most [CHAP. I. 10 MOUNTAIN NESTORIANS KOORDS. diflicult fastnesses of the Koordish mountains in the centre of Ancient Assyria. I had long regarded these mountain-tribes as the principal field of our future la bours.

They comprised the main body of the Nesto rian Church, and it was of the highest importance to bring them at once under an enlightening influence, before they should become alarmed by changes that were occurring among their brethren of the plain. But the way of access to them appeared to be hedged round by the sanguinary Koords, by whom they are surrounded, and who had treacherously murdered Mr. Shultz, the only European who had attempted to reach the Nestorian tribes. The Koords, to whom frequent allusion will be made, are a warlike race of people, inhabiting the mountainous country between Persia and Turkey — the ancient Gordian or Carduchian Mountains — and divided nominally between those two empires. But their more powerful tribes have seldom acknowledged more than a nominal allegiance to either of these go vernments; and some of them, as those of Hakary, have maintained an entire independence.

A part of them are nomades, living in tents, and part of them stationary tenants of villages; but all more or less given to predatory habits. Their religion is professedly the faith of Islam. The following dialogue, which I held with one of the nomadic Koords and a Nestorian bishop, may serve to illustrate the character of this sanguinary people. Similar statements have frequently been made by other Koords, and confirmed by the Nestorians and Persians. CHAP. I.] 11 DIALOGUE WITH A KOORD. Myself. — Where do you live ? Koord. — In black tents. We are Kouchee Koords. M. — What is your occupation ? Bishop. — You need not ask him. I will tell you. They are thieves. M— Is that true, Koord ? K. — Yes, it is true. We steal whenever we can. M. — Do you kill people too ? K. — When we meet a man that we wish to rob, if we prove the strongest, we kill him ; if he proves the strongest, he kills us.

M. — But suppose he offers no resistance when you attempt to rob him ? K. — If he have much property, we would kill him to prevent his making us trouble ; if he had not much, we would let him go. B. — Yes, after you had whipped him well. M. — Suppose you meet a poor man who had nothing but his clothes, what would you do? Would you molest him ? K. — If his clothes were good, we would take them and give him poor ones in exchange. If not, we would let him pass. M. — But this is a bad business in which you are engaged, of robbing people. Why do you not follow some other occupation ? K. — What shall we do ? We have no ploughs or fields ; and robbing is our trade. M. — The Persians will give you land if you will cultivate it. K. — We do not know how to work. [CHAP. I. 12 CHARACTER OF THE KOORDS. 31. — It is very easy to learn.

Will you make the trial ? B.— He does not wish to work. He had rather steal. K.— He speaks the truth. It would be very difficult, and take a long time, to get what we want by working for it ; but by robbing a village, we can get a great deal of property in a single night. M— But you are liable to be killed in these af frays. K. — Suppose we are killed. We must die some time, and what is the difference of dying now or a few days hence ? When we rob a village, we go in large parties upon horses, surprise the villagers when they are asleep, and escape with their property before they are ready to defend themselves. If pursued by an army, we strike our tents and flee to our strongholds in the mountains. 31 — Why do you not come and rob these villages, as you used to do ? B. — They could not live if driven out of Persia.

They fear the Persians. K. — We should have no other place to winter our flocks ; so we give the Persians some presents, and keep at peace with them. 31. — I wish to visit your tribe. How would they treat me ? K— Upon my eyes, they would do everything for you. 31— But you say they are thieves and murderers. Perhaps they would rob and kill me. K- — No, no ; they wish to have you come, but you CHAP. I.] 13 KOORDS. are not willing. We never rob our friends. You come to do good, and no one would hurt you. 31. — But many of them do not know me. K. — They have all heard of you, and would treat you with the greatest kindness if you should visit them. [chap. H- 14 DEPARTURE FROM OOROOMIAH.

Chapter II

Practicability of visiting the Mountain Nestorians— Journey to Constantinople—Storm in the Mountains — Journey to Mesopotamia, Diarbekir, and Mardin — Providential Escape. A brother of the Nestorian patriarch, who visited us at Ooroomiah, and a Koordish chief whom I had seen in his castle at Burdasoor, had expressed the opinion that my professional character would procure me a safe passport to any part of the Koordish Moun tains; and, from what I had learned in my frequent intercourse with the Koords, I had reason to believe that I might safely pass through the Koordish ter ritory and enter the country of the Independent Nes torians. My own impressions were that I should be able to enter the country of the Independent Nestorians from the Persian frontier, and I advised this plan. But this Avas not assented to, and, in pursuance of the instructions of the Board to proceed by way of Mesopotamia, I set out from Ooroomiah on the 1st of April, 1839, for Erzeroom, where I had proposed to meet my ex pected associate, the Rev. Mr. Homes, of Constanti nople, who was to be temporarily associated with me in this enterprise.

On my arrival at Salmas, I received a letter from him, apprizing me that the brethren at Constantinople had decided against his entering upon the tour, under CHAP. II.] 15 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. the apprehension that my late afflictions would put it out of my power to fulfil the plans of the Board in the formation of a permanent station. I looked upon this as another among the many indications of Pro vidence which had come before us, in favour of my plan of entering the mountains from the Persian frontier. I wrote to our mission for advice, repeating my conviction of the importance of the measure I had before urged upon them, of entering the mountains before proceeding to Mesopotamia. The political state of the latter country was mentioned as one consideration in favour of this course. My letter was also ac companied by the assurance ofthe governor of Salmas, that he would do everything to secure the success of the enterprise, and that he did not doubt but the facilities he could furnish would enable me to go and return in safety.

But still there was not a majority in the mission in favour of my entering the mountains, and I was advised to proceed to join Mr. Homes, and enter upon the proposed tour in Mesopotamia. I accordingly proceeded with as much expedition as possible to Constantinople. An unusual quantity of snow had fallen late in the season, and my journey proved one of extreme difficulty and of no little peril. For more than two hundred miles I found the snow from two to three or four feet in depth, although it was the middle of April when I crossed this elevated portion of Armenia. On the great plain at the foot of Mount Ararat we encountered one of the most severe storms of snow I had ever experienced, and came near perishing in the mountains beyond, where the storm [CHAP. II. 16 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. met us with increased fury.

For more than twenty miles of this dreary road there was not a single human habitation. Our guide, about midway, became so much blinded by the snow that he could not keep the road, and I was obliged to take his place, and trust to the recollection of my former journey four years before, and the occasional traces of the path, which was here and there swept bare by the driving wind. As we began to descend the mountains on the opposite side, where the wind had not done us this important ser vice, I was obliged to walk several miles, tracing the narrow path in the deep snow with my feet. I could only determine when I was out of the old beaten path, which lay beneath the new-fallen snow, by the depth to which I sunk in the frosty element. Our horses also became almost buried in the snow the moment they stepped out of the road.

While crossing the plain near the head-waters of the Euphrates, where Xenophon and the Ten Thou sand suffered so much in their memorable retreat, my Nestorian attendant, and a pilgrim who had joined us, became nearly blind from the continued intense glare of the snow. This and a severe storm detained us two days at Moolah-Sooleiman, where we were most hos pitably entertained in a stable, with forty or fifty head of horned cattle, horses, donkeys, and fowls, while the sheep occupied another apartment in the same house. In these and other particulars I found a striking coin cidence with the experience of the brave Ten Thousand ; and the dwellings and habits of the people were essen tially the same as those described by Xenophon more CHAP. II.] MOUNTAIN STORM. 17 than two thousand years ago. The houses were built mostly under ground, and the villages at a distance resembled a collection of large coal-pits, but broader and not so high.

Our next stage was over the mountain -pass of Dahar, the most difficult between Constantinople and Persia. The recollection of what Messrs. Smith and Dwight experienced in their passage over this mountain, together with the fact that three natives had perished in the snow not long before, prepared me to expect a toilsome and difficult ride. But delay was not likely to make any improvement for many days to come ; and, moreover, a storm of rain had set in on the plain, which would soon quite obstruct the road, as the horse would sink to his middle at every step. As we began to ascend the mountain, we found the rain changed to snow, and accompanied by a strong wind, which soon increased to a gale. When about twothirds of the way up the mountain, the guide, who professed to be well acquainted with the road, led us into such deep snows that our hardy horses were unable to proceed, and it became evident that we had wandered from the path.

After much difficulty we succeeded in finding it ; but it was soon lost again, and the guide, after a fruitless search, declared it im possible to proceed. To turn back was nearly as hopeless, as the snow had filled our tracks almost as soon as they were made, and as the wind would then be in our faces. Under these circumstances, I felt that our hope was alone in God ; but with his assurance that he would direct the path of those who acknowc [CHAP. H. 18 PERILS IN THE MOUNTAINS. ledge him in all their ways, I felt that he would order all for the best, though in what manner or to what end I could not foresee. Just then, as unexpected as if an angel had descended from heaven, four hardy mountaineers came tramping over the snow from the opposite side of the mountain. With much difficulty we pVevailed upon one of them to act as our guide ; and by breaking down the high drifts of snow with our feet, and leading our horses where we could not ride, we at length succeeded in passing the moun tains.

There had been no horse across since the heavy storm a week before, and the old path could only be found in many places by striking a heavy cudgel deep into the snow ; and our guide seldom mis took the road when he found his long staff strike on a hard foundation without sinking its length in the snow. The next day we found ourselves in the valley of the Aras, where a warm sun and heavy continued rains had swelled every rill to a fearful torrent ; and we had as imminent danger in crossing the streams which lay in our way as we had before experienced from mountain-storms. In one of these mountain torrents my horse was carried away, but finally succeeded in reaching the shore, when I had to ride several miles with my boots full of water as cold as the melting snow. On reaching the west branch of the Euphrates, I found the bridge had fallen in the night, and we only succeeded in crossing after the villagers had waded about in the cold water up to their waists for nearly an hour.

At first they pro- CHAP. II.] 19 JOURNEY TO MESOPOTAMIA. nounced the ford impracticable, but finally succeeded in getting us across where the water came quite up on our saddles. Several other bridges were carried away, and in one instance I took a circuitous route, and crossed the stream in its separate branches near its source. On arriving at Constantinople I found that Mr. Homes could not then be spared from that station, and, with the concurrence of the brethren, I resolved to proceed alone into Mesopotamia, it being under stood that I should remain in or near Diarbekir until Mr. Homes should join me. I accordingly made what haste I could to that field. From Trebizonde I rode in less than three days to Erzeroom, a distance by the winter route of at least 220 miles, and over a very mountainous road.