Narrative of a three months' march in India, and a residence in the Dooab

Front matter

i&GusZaZ*^ . tc^A. NARRATIVE OF A THREE MONTHS' MARCH IN INDIA; AND A RESIDENCE IN THE DOOAB. BY THE WIFE OF AN OFFICER IN THE 16TH FOOT. -WITH PLATES, FROM DRAWINGS MADE ON THE SPOT. LONDON: R. HASTINGS, 13. CAREY STREET, Lincoln's inn. 1841. London . Printed by A. Spottiswoodf, New- Street- Square. TO JOHN GREEN PALEY, ESQ. OF OATL.1NDS, AND LANGCLIFFE IN YORKSHIRE, •Tins' -JJarrattbr OF IHE INCIDENTS .AND IMPRESSIONS WHICH RECEIVED-C^HEIR RISE BURINS THE PERIOD OF A SHORT RESIDENCE IN BRITISH INDIA, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY HIS AFFECTIONATE DAUGHTER, HARRIETTE ASHIUORK. A -2

Preface

. The following pages were written during the Author's absence from England, which con sisted [only of the term of five years. In pre senting them to the public, she is not actuated by the idea that she can add any thing to the fund of information which has already accu mulated on the subject of our Eastern possessions ; but by the feeling that there exist those who will peruse with pleasure a record of the varied hues which gild the ever-changing horizon of the traveller, and of the leading characteristics of those scenes into which so many of the youth of Britain now daily hasten to take a part. That the observations here strung together have been arranged more with a view to en tertain the young and inexperienced wanderer, than the scientific and matured traveller, she is ready to acknowledge. a VI

PREFACE.

. Most of the notes, as well as the drawings, were hastily made during the bustle and con fusion attendant upon marching, but they are faithful representations ; and whilst the note book was the recipient of remarks and first impressions, the drawing pencil was ever the favourite companion of a more leisure hour. Should there appear, in any of her pages, the slightest tinge of acrimony, it will, she trusts, be attributed to its true source, viz. regret at the sight of talents perverted, and time misapplied. That they are free from per sonal remarks she feels satisfied ; and in the earnest hope that her volume may be the means of conveying entertainment to some, and offence to no one, she requires only good humour in its perusal, and lenity to those imperfections which the distractions attendant upon a numerous family, and the faults of an inexperienced author, have necessarily induced. Guernsey, Nov. 1840. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The Voyage. — Mussulmaun Ayah. — Prayers on Sundays. — Storm. — Catching a Shark. — Pilot Fish. — Funeral at Sea. — Crossing the Line. — Accustomed Ceremonies on the Occasion. — The Southern Constellations. — Capture of an Albatross. — The Cuddy Table in Rough Weather Arrival in Simon's Bay. — Visit to Cape Town. ■ — Exquisite Vegetation. — Beautiful Flowers. — Fine Scenery. — Hottentots, their degraded Condition. — Visit to Constantia. — Excellent Wines. — Divine Service on board a Man-of-War Perilous Return to Simon's Town. — Mode of Travelling. — Mountain Torrents. — A Weather Gall. — Magellan Clouds. — Approach to the Madras Coast. — Phosphoric Lights. — Splendid Appearance of the Sea. — Flying Fish. .... Page 1 CHAP. II. .\rrival at Madras. — Catamaran Boats. — High Surf, — Wild Appearance of the Natives. — Their Officiousness to Strangers. — Description of a Gentleman's House and its Furniture. — St. George's Church. — Bishop Heber's Monument, by Chantrey. — Languid Appearance of the Europeans. — Tatties. — Jugglers. — Lizards. — Pagoda of Juggernaut. — The Hoogly. — The Approach to Calcutta. — Arrival at Calcutta.

CONTENTS. VIII CHAP. III. Description of Calcutta. — A Ball at Government House. — Great Variety of Costumes. — English Ladies in Calcutta. — Effects of the Climate. — Defective Educations of most Anglo-Indian Ladies. — Fort William. — Immense Number of Crows. — Their Voracity. — The Adjutant Bird. — Jackals. — Cathedral. — Public Establishments. — Schools. — Museum. — Library of the Asiatic Society. — Ghats. — The Course. — Fashionable Drive. — Description of the Calcutta Houses. — Their internal Arrangement and Furniture. — Annoyance from Insects. — Hookahs. — First Importation of Ice. — The Governor-General's Country House at Barrackpore. — Serampore, a Danish Settlement. — Chandernagore, a French Settlement. — Numerous dead Bodies of Hindoos thrown into the Sacred River. — Ball at Government House in Honour of the King's Birthday. — Nautch at Chandernagore. — Nautch Girls. — Native Music. — Style of the Entertainment given by the rich Natives. — Preparations for the March. — Number of Servants requisite.

Page 59 CHAP. IV. The Regiment commences its March. — Its first Halt. — Numerical Strength of the Column, including Servants and Camp Followers. — Abundant Supplies of Provisions. — Daily Bazaars. — Necessity of speaking the Native Languages. — Crossing a Nullah by a Bridge of Boats. — Petty Disasters. — Elephants on a Suspension Bridge. — Their Fears. — Plassey, the Site of Lord Clive's Victory. — Berhampore, its native Burying Ground. — Barracks. — Curious Adventure at the House of a Commissariat Officer. — Moorshedabad. — New Palace for the Rajah. — A new Way to pay old Debts. — Heavy Rains. — Bad CONTENTS. IX State of the Roads. — Beauty of the Trees and Scenery. — Arrival of the Regiment at the Banks of the Ganges. — Rajamahal, Ruins ofthe Palace March through the Jungle. — The celebrated Pass of Terriagully. — Romantic Rocks in the Ganges near Colgong. - - Page 103 CHAP. V. Bauglepore. — Musslemaun Tomb. — Sultan-gunge. — The Holy Mount Mandar The Sacred Well at Seeta-coome. — Monghyr; Salubrity of its Climate Kindness of an English Missionary and his Family. — Conversions among the Hindoos. — Hybut Gunge, Mangoe Groves, and Cotton Plantations. — H. M. 38th and 16th Regiments meet on the March. — Futwah. — The l6th meet H. M. 44th, and exchange Camels, Tents, &c. — The Golah. 145 CHAP. VI.

Dinapore. — Deegah Farm. — Hackeries pillaged Alarms of Thieves. — Fakir's Tomb at Moonear. — Mosque at Arrah Buxar. — Stud Establishment. — Ghazeepore. — The Cantonments. — Church. — Lord Cornwallis's Monument. — Rose Plantations. Process of Sugar-making. — Halt at Secrole. — Illness and Death of the Colonel. — Benares. — Aurengzebe's Mosque. — Description of Benares. — Its Fakirs and Mendicants. — Gross Superstition of the Hindoos. — Brahminy Bulls and Monkies. — Richness of the Merchandize in the Shops. — Baboo Heridos's House. — Loosewallahs. — Attempt at Robbery. - - - - l6l CHAP. VII. Mohun ke Serai. — Great Utility of the Serai. — Description of a Loose-wallah. — Their Depredations in X CONTENTS. the Camp. — Mirzapore Carpets. — Pilgrims. — Holy Water. — Allahabad. — Junction of the Jumna and Ganges. — Description of the Fort at Allahabad. — A Colony of Fakirs. — Hindoo Mythology. — Prince Khosoroo's Serai — its extensive Gardens. — Kurah — its Fields of white Poppy. — Futtehpore. — Danger of having Horses poisoned by the Inha bitants. ...

Page 194 CHAP. VIII. Arrival at Cawnpore. — Arranging an Establishment. — False Characters easily procured by Servants. — Inconvenience caused by Servants. — Treatment of Servants. — Remarks of a converted Hindoo on the general Want of Veracity. — Some become Converts from Motives of Interest. — Habits of Life amongst the Anglo-Indians. - - - 212 CHAP. IX. Gaiety caused by the fresh Arrival of a Regiment. — Fine Assembly Rooms at Cawnpore. — Strangers pay the first Visit of Ceremony. — Theatre. — Amateur Plays. — A Church and a Chapel built by Subscription. — Excessive Heat during the Hot Winds. — A Tiffaun, or Sand-storm Baneful Effects of the Hot Winds. — A Famine and its dreadful Ravages amongst the Natives. — Native Marriage. — Brilliant Illuminations and Fireworks. — Bridal Procession. — A Flight of Locusts. - - 227 CHAP. X. Primitive Mode of thrashing and grinding Corn, and of baking Bread. — Demoniacal Conduct of the Fakirs. — Utility of Chunam — Rapid Vegetation and Abundance of Fruit The Table much supplied with Vegetables, Fish, Fowl, and other Luxuries from CONTENTS.

XI England. — Hindoo Festivals. — Runaway Elephants. — Midnight Processions. — A Party at the Nawab Nizam Ood'owlah's. — Introduction of the European Ladies into the Nawab's Zenanah. — Splendour of Visir Bahoo's Dress and of her Jewels. — The Roguery of a native Jeweller. — Misconduct of some young military Men at the Nawab's Fete. — Absti nence of the Musslemauns during the Mohurrun. — Their bitter Lamentations. - Page 245 CHAP. XI. Ostentatious Habits of the Natives of India. — Their Propensity for lying. — Thuggee. — Its Origin traced to the earliest Times. — The Goddess Kalee the Patron of the Thugs. — The Exhibition of the Devourer of a whole Sheep. — Melancholy Reflections produced by witnessing the great Religious Festivals. — Self-inflicted Tortures of the poor Idolaters. — The Suttee nearly abolished. — Destruction of Female Infants still practised by the higher Order of Hindoos. .... 275 CHAP. XII.

Expected Visit of the Commander-in-chief. — Bustle in the Camp. — Delight of living under Canvass in fine Weather. — Grand military Evolutions at Cawnpore. — Ten thousand Men on the Field. — Savage Nature of the native Horses. — A fatal Accident the Consequence. - 287 CHAP. XIII. Want of Rain. — Prospect of another Famine Dreadful Sickness and Mortality amongst the Troops. — Universal Dread of the Cholera. — Failure of the Crops. — Appalling Heat. — Two Years' Leave of CONTENTS. Absence. — Sale of Bungalow and its Effects. ■— Preparations for a Voyage down the Ganges. — Fare well Visits. ... Page 297 CHAP. XIV. Departure from Cawnpore. — Numbers of Monkeys. — Near Allahabad, the Governor General's Camp Equipage crosses the River. — Self-inflicted Tortures of the Devotees at Allahabad. — Tale of Allahabad. — Confluence of the Jumna and Ganges. — Jour de fete of the Boat. — Honours paid to it by the Crew. — Description of the Boat. — Customs of the Boatmen. — Visits at Sultanpore and Dinapore. — The Steamers plying between Allahabad and Calcutta. — Rapacity of the Wolves. — Moorshedabad The Nawab's new Palace Berhampore. — Chandenagore. — Arrival at Calcutta. - 305 CHAP. XV.

Embarkation' for England. — The Bustle and Confusion on board The Ship struck on a Shoal. — Imminent Danger of all on board. — A Mutiny amongst the Pigs. — A large Shoal of Porpoises. — The Ship anchors in Table Bay. — Annoyance from Rats on board the Ship. — Disagreements amongst the Passengers. .... 330 CHAP. XVI. Hints to the Young and Inexperienced. — General Observations. — A general Inquisitiveness exists amongst the old Residents in India. — A Contrast between the Passengers in outward-bound and homeward-bound Ships. — Arrival in England. - JOURNAL j etc.

CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE.

The Voyage. — Mussulmaun Ayah. — Prayers on Sundays. — Storm. — Catching a Shark. — Pilot Fish. — Funeral at Sea. — Crossing the Line Accustomed Ceremonies on the Occasion. — The Southern Constellations. — Capture of an Albatross. — The Cuddy Table in Rough Weather. — Arrival in Simons Bay. — Visit to Cape Town. — Exquisite Vegetation. — Beautiful Flowers. — Fine Scenery. — Hottentots, their degraded Condition. — Visit to Constantia. — Excellent Wines. — Divine Service on board a Man-of- War. — Perilous Return to Simon's Town Mode of Travelling Mountain Torrents. — A Weather Gale. — Magellan Clouds. — Approach to the Madras Coast. — Phosphoric Lights. — Splendid Appearance ofthe Sea. — Flying Fish. V> e embarked at Gravesend for India, earlv "■ ** in the year 18-33, on board the ship Protector, now, alas ! a melancholy wreck, and in whose MUSSULMAUN AYAH. destruction were involved the lives of upwards of 170 unfortunate beings.* Our fellow pas sengers were in number about twenty, of whom only two were young ladies bent upon the some what hazardous expedient of seeking friends and fortune in India; the greater portion consisted of young cadets in the Honourable Company's Service, full of high hopes, and enjoying bright visions of futurity, just emancipated from Ad discombe, and overjoyed at their newly acquired freedom.

A Mussulmaun Ayah had been engaged to attend upon the ladies on board, and we were not a little amused by her appearance and manners ; for as yet our eyes had not become accustomed to the thin muslin garments and gaudy ornaments of the East. Mona's ears were laden with rings and pendents of various forms; her black neck was encircled with in- * The " Protector" was lost during the past year, in the dangerous navigation of the Sand-heads, at a moment when its many passengers were hailing with delight the approaching termination of their voyage. To ourselves, however, it gave safe conduct to the Eastern Empire, and proved itself an excellent sailer. MUSSUI.MAUN AYAH. numerable silver chains and ornaments; and her arms, from the wrist to the elbow, were encased in bracelets. Nor was this all ; for the upper part of her toes was covered with a kind of coat of mail, which passed for silver, and her insteps bore ponderous ornaments of the same metal, at least an inch in thickness.

When the sun shone on the deck, Mona was generally to be seen basking in his beams: her head, and the upper part of her person, were enveloped in thin muslin of the most dazzling whiteness; by her side lay her richly embroidered slippers ; and not unfrequently was she enjoying the luxurious hubble-bubble, or substitute for the hookah, used by the poorer classes of the natives of India. During the early part of our voyage we had splendid weather ; indeed, to those who had never left our foggy atmosphere before, it was quite enchanting. We experienced a moderate share of tossing in the Bay of Biscay; after which a rapid run, sometimes of 200 knots a day, brought us quickly to the Line. But here we had to encounter constant calms; the vast expanse around us presented an unruffled b CAPE ORTEGAL. surface, so calm, so glassy, that we could scarcely believe it to be the same element which so frequently throws itself into such violent agita tions.

The only land which had met our view since we left our native shores, was a distant outline of Cape Ortegal, whose bold high land was visible at a distance of twenty or thirty miles on a very clear morning. After having passed the latitude of Madeira, the heat rapidly increased; but, although very nearly approaching the sun's path, the delicious sea breeze rendered the air of a delightful tem perature, and the thermometer only attained 65° in the shade. On entering the torrid zone, however, we were compelled to become more prudent than to expose ourselves to his rays; but an awning being suspended over the deck and poop, enabled us still to enjoy the open air, and to watch the constant changes and incidents which occurred. People talk of the tedium of an Indian voyage : on our way out we knew it not ; the days flew quickly past, and only seemed too short for our wishes.

On the return of each Sabbath, when the weather permitted, both passengers and ship's crew assembled on the PRAYERS ON SUNDAY. 5 quarter-deck to join in prayer. The captain became the chaplain, and took his station at the capstan, over which was thrown that flag so dear to every British sailor, the Union Jack. To me, this was always an imposing sight : many of the men were extremely devout, but scarcely any of them had either Bibles or Prayer books ; consequently, having only occasional opportunities of receiving religious instruction, or joining in public prayer, how slight may its impression be upon their hearts, without the aid of private and more frequent remembrances of their duty ! We neared the Cape de Verd Islands, but could not distinguish St. Antonio, although within only a few miles of it, owing to a transient density of the atmosphere.

The first storm it was our lot to encounter, overtook us when within a degree or two north of the Line : we had been becalmed for some days, when it suddenly burst upon us. The most terrific thunder pealed over our heads, and the rain fell in torrents, so as utterly to astonish those who now beheld for the first time a tropical storm. The scene was grand and imposing, as I watched it from my cabin winb CATCHING A SHARK. dow : the flashes of lightning were incessant ; and as the vessel heaved heavily to and fro, the sea might well be said to run mountains high ; at one moment far above us, at the next as mightily receding from our view. I clung to the window frames to enjoy the scene, for it was not with out much difficulty that I could maintain my seat for a moment. On the morning after this interlude, the sea again presented an unruffled surface ; and the ship's crew were all on the qui vive to catch one of those monsters of the deep against which sailors are apt to wage such an endless war — a shark.

The creature had been discovered lurking near the vessel, and several hooks were already baited for his reception, one of which he quickly seized, and the eager anglers were anxiously drawing him out of the water, when a desperate struggle, which almost brought his tail into our cabin window, set the captive free, and he was instantly lost to our sight : but it appeared that another and more eager enemy remained : in a few moments, we watched the advance of a second shark, which suddenly and courageously darting forward, in the manner so peculiar to the animal, turned CATCHING A SHARK. itself almost over in order to seize the bait, brought the under jaw upw-ards and greedily swallowed the treacherous morsel. Only an anxious moment elapsed, ere he was secured, as the hook soon pierced his jaw ; but a considerable period intervened before he could be brought on board with safety ; his struggles were tremendous, and a noosed rope was thrown and secured round his body before he could be drawn up and brought to subjection.

The un fortunate shark was nearly 14 feet in length, and met with a sharp reception from his natural foes, who seemed to entertain a demoniacal hatred towards him ; — scarcely had he attained the forecastle, when each man who could com mand a weapon, eagerly dashed it into his victim, and its carcass was soon severed into a hundred pieces. And after all this, what was the advantage to be gained ? None whatever ; the mangled body was consigned piecemeal to the deep, no doubt to become food for equally ravenous creatures ; as of the species to which he belonged the men would not eat, although of a smaller description of shark they are some what fond, and assert that its flesh resembles b PILOT FISH. that of the ox. It was our lot to see several sharks caught in the course of this and a sub sequent voyage; but the sport, if such it can be called, is in general much the same, though more art is undoubtedly required to harpoon the monster ; and this we saw done on several occasions.

The shark is generally attended by one or more pilot-fish, — elegant little creatures with backs striped alternately black and white : they are about a foot in length, and are said to be excellent eating ; but why this timid little creature bestows its company so constantly upon its huge acquaintance, appears a marvel, and must be left for naturalists to decide. Two sucking fish were attached to the shark whose capture is above described : this likewise is a peculiarity which generally attends them. The sucking fish is not commonly more than four inches long, but is endowed with the power of attaching itself to any substance with extraordinary tenacity; indeed, so strongly does it maintain its hold, that it will sometimes suffer itself to be torn in twain rather than withhold its resistance.

Still nearer the Line, our voyage was rather A MAD DOG. 9 devoid of external interest, as we had constant calms, or baffling and contrary winds : this drove most of the passengers to their scanty libraries for occupation ; and some of us were not sorry for the temporary repose. Our book shelves, escritoires, and drawing-books always afforded an agreeable resource from ennui; besides which, had our own supply of books failed, there were those on board, who were both able and glad to exchange their stores with ours according as circumstances offered. On one evening during this tropical heat, a dog which be longed to the captain appeared in a rabid state, and threw the community into confusion; it made a violent dash at the cuddy window, attracted thither by the lights in the interior, but fortu nately was prevented entering, — neither did he succeed in seizing any one on the deck : the alarmed crew were dispersed in all direction; ; two or three were standing on the capstan, more of them up the rigging, and all in a state of the greatest excitement: since no harm occurred, we could laugh at the ridiculous recollection of that evening, for fear caused strange contortions in some of the men's countenances; however, B FUNERAL AT SEA. after the lapse of a short time, the poor creature in its agony ran on the chains, and immediately fell overboard.

At this period we lost by death one of the passengers ; whose health, however, even when leaving England, was not such as to admit of the hope of his reaching the shores of India alive. He was a young officer in the Company's Artillery, and had been for some time in a de clining state. His death was the most melancholy of which I have ever heard mention : his last days were agony and despair ; and, far from those who were bound to him by kindred ties, his eyes were closed by the stranger, and his last moments embittered by miserable recol lections. He died a few hours before sunrise; and at four o'clock on that day, the crew and some of the passengers assembled on the quarter-deck to consign his body to the deep. The Union Jack concealed the coffin from view ; the captain read the form appointed for the service of sea burial, at a given signal the supports were removed, and the coffin was al lowed to fall from the gangway into the ocean ; it floated as long as it remained in sight; but CROSSING THE LINE. 11 we were soon wafted far away, as a breeze had sprung up, and we were going at the rate of ten knots : the gloom, which for a few moments had spread over the assembly, was dispelled, and all faces again wore their accustomed expression.

I have seen many funerals at sea, but this first and saddest has left the deepest traces on my recollection. We crossed the Line at eight o'clock p. M. on the 8th of June, and the ship was immediately hailed by the presiding deity of the Ocean, who promised us a visit in due form on the following morning, and warned us to hold ourselves in readiness for his arrival. After this notice, his godship was supposed to disappear in the form of a blazing tar barrel. At an early hour the next day, true to his word, and clad in sea-weed, old Neptune stept on board; he was accompanied by Amphitrite and Triton (which latter sounded a trumpet in honour of his father in no measured strains). An uncouth doctor, a barber, a bear, and non descript followers in abundance, swelled the train of the Sea deity, who advanced to the quarter-deck and graciously shook hands with b CROSSING THE LINE. the captain.

Liberal portions of grog were im mediately presented, to which Amphitrite especially seemed particularly partial ; and perhaps, to do her justice, she was the best dressed figure in the group, personated by one of the most athletic sailors on board. All the passengers who had not previously crossed the Line, were then presented to the notice of the visiters, and were expected to make a certain donation in money or tobacco ; failing which, they subjected themselves to a sufficiently severe infliction ere they could con sider themselves free of the Line. A number of young sailors and midshipmen were in this predicament, and were most unceremoniously treated. Placed blindfold on the edge of a huge barrel of water, certain questions as to parentage and education, &c. were propounded to the stranger, which by coercive measures he was compelled to answer ; when, no sooner was the mouth opened, than a brush, newly dipped in tar, was inserted into it, the face being likewise besmeared with the same abominable substance : the barber, moreover, was at hand to accomplish his part of the farce ; and with no gentle hand, first feathered and then made pretence to shave CEREMONIES ON THE OCCASION. 13 the tormented one : this was done with a piece of rusty iron ; and when accomplished, a hasty ablution was performed by a sudden and en forced somerset into the water.

Some of the younkers, we were informed, caused very good sport ; but the scene, although carried on with sufficient good humour, soon became of too riotous a nature to admit of our long remaining witnesses to it. I believe all the sailors luxu riated in a bath on the occasion ; for each man, arming himself with a bucket, splashed water upon every person who ventured before the mast. The evening was closed by some tole rable songs and rather good hornpipes per formed by the ship's crew, the heroes of the day. A few days afterwards we spoke a vessel from Valparaiso, bound to Bahia and thence to Eng land: this afforded us an opportunity of sending letters home, of which we gladly took advantage. The captain and crew of the vessel in question gave a terrible account of their sufferings from cold off Cape Horn, and described icebergs of considerable magnitude as having approached them very closely.

Our weather was now de lightful, and with favourable winds we soon THE SOUTHERN CONSTELLATIONS. ao-ain left the torrid zone. Quantities of Cape pigeons then became visible, — a few of which were made prisoners by hook and line ; but they lose their beauty when closely inspected, and the elegance, which their motions on the water present, is changed to awkwardness when their web feet and bad gait are exhibited on board a vessel. Numbers of them were cruelly slaugh tered by idle and thoughtless young voyagers, who chose to make these tame and harmless little animals, marks on which to exercise their shooting powers. Our starlit nights were extremely grand. The Southern Constellations were for the first time over our heads, amongst which the Cross shone pre-eminent, whilst our old acquaintance the Great Bear was almost lost to view.

In lat. 27° South, and about 34° of West long., we first saw the Magellan clouds; some on board, I believe, among the night watchers, had seen them a few nights earlier than we did. The largest of these extraordinary phenomena was over the Southern Cross, and appeared like a dark cloud, through which, however, stars were visible; whilst the others resembled detached CAPTURE OF AN ALBATROSS. 15 parts of the Milky Way, and were nearer Argo navis. About the same degree of South latitude we caught sight of the mighty Albatross wheeling its rapid flight — at one moment close to the vessel, at the next far away on the distant horizon: one, however, was disabled and captured by a tolerably expert marksman, and a boat put off to fetch it on board. It measured twelve feet from the tip of one wing to that of the other, and being an old one was nearly white : when in the prime of life, they have deep brown backs and wings, and sometimes attain a larger growth than the one we saw.

The first day of July brought with it several untoward events. The weather was extremely tempestuous, consequently falls and overturns were numerous. Early in the morning, my poor old Ayah was handing me a cup of tea, whilst I clung to my cot with the greatest difficulty ; when the vessel rolled violently, and sent Mona sprawling on the cabin floor, now to larboard, now to starboard: crashed were the cup and saucer into a thousand pieces, whilst the hot beverage ran in every direction ; but poor THE CUDDY TABLE IN ROUGH WEATHER. Mona had the worst of the business, for in vain did she attempt to seize hold of any substantial article of furniture ; every thing eluded her grasp, and she was sadly bruised before she could recover herself. In the midst of this trouble, my writing desk escaped from its lashings ; when down it went, its well-filled ink-stand throwing the sable fluid over every thing that came in its way.

We were each moment reminded that we were off the terrible and appropriately termed Cape of Tempests : at the cuddy table an accu mulation of mishaps occurred; a servant was crossing the quarter-deck laden with a covered dish, when a sea struck the vessel and over threw the unfortunate man, who was instantly thoroughly drenched with salt water, whilst the broken crockery revealed to our view the scat tered ingredients of a savoury Irish stew. The cuddy table presented no ordinary appearance : every article that could by any possibility alter its position, traversed the table; pies, biscuit trays, dishes, &c. &c, all were in motion ; the leg of mutton, rolling in grotesque irregularity, once more came in contact with its kindred shoulder; poultry and pork were again in motion, arrival in simon's bay. 17 and sand bags proved themselves of little avail.