La Plata, the Argentine Confederation, and Paraguay

Front matter

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Chapter I

Urquiza's Decree, opening the Waters of La Plata.— The Expedition.— Its Objects.—The Water Witch.— Her Sea Qualities.— The Voyage.— Arrival at Rio de Janeiro. — Correspondence with the Government. — Permission granted to ascend to Albuquerque. — Further Extension of this Privilege. — Pamperos. — The Morgan Wheel. — French Charts. — Arrival at Montevideo. — Quarantine. — Yellow Fever. — Montevideo. — Its Trade and Population. — Colonel Paunero....Page 25

Chapter II

Arrival at Buenos Ayres. — Its Site. — Winds. — Higueritas. — Trade. — Buildings. — Fruits and Flowers. — Landing at Buenos Ayres. — Besiegers and Besieged. — Our Ministers. — Treaty with President Lopez. — Urquiza's Army. — Visit at Head-quarters.— Personal Appearance of the General. — He interests himself in the Expedition. — Detention at Buenos Ayres. — Letter from Mr. Pendleton. — Treachery in the Squadron. — Joint Treaty of Navigation. — Martin Garcia Channel. — New Channel discovered. — Letter from Messrs. Schanck and Pendleton. — Breaking up of the Siege. — Senor Urquiza and Staff on board the Water Witch. — Palermo, the former Residence of Rosas. — The Dictator and his Daughter Manuelita. — Urquiza's Dog. — The Director's Demeanor. — The Voyage. — Ladies on board. — Temperance of Urquiza. — He leaves the Water Witch. — Return to Buenos Ayres. — Tribute to British Officers 35

Chapter III

Letter from Mr. Schenck. — Visit to the Estancia of General Urquiza. — Framing of the Treaty. — Marking Cattle. — Farm and Residence of the Director. — Ostriches, Partridges, and Deer: Mode of hunting them. — Horses. — Return to Buenos Ayres. — The Galera. — Reception at Concepcion. — The College. — The Ball. — Native Grace of Spanish American Women. — Leave Concepcion. — The Water Witch. — Coaling at Buenos Ayres. — Final Departure for the Ascent of the River 51

Chapter IV

Chronometers. — Determinations of Latitude and Longitude. — Construction of Charts. — Delta of the Parana. — Diamante. — Fruits. — Oranges. — Peaches. — Beautiful Scenery. — Mouths of the Parana. — The Parbon. — The Gualaguay. — TheRepunte. — Periodical Risings of Water. — Islands. — The Seibo and Sause. — San Pedro. — Obligardo. — Passage forced by the English and French. — Island Formations. — Variations of Channel. — Pilots. — Estancieros. — San Nicholas. — Rosario. — Its commercial Importance. — Advantages over Buenos Ayres. — Winds. — Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq. — Banks of the River. — Convent of San Lorenzo. — The Tercero. — Mr. Campbell's Survey. — The Chaco Hills. — Scenery. — Diamante.— Ferries. — Trees. — The Algarroba and Espinilla 64

CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Left Bank of the Parana. — Survey made by Lieutenant Powell. — Climbing the Tree. — Victoria. — Descending the Parana Cito. — Puerto de los Bues. — Gualaguav. — El Puerto de Ybicui. — A Canal. — Paciencia. — Physical Changes. — The Colastiue. — Capella de Sun Jose. — Santa Fe. — The Chaco. — Its Inhabitants. — Parana. — Bajada. — Progress. — Pine Lumber. — Commercial Prospects. — Cedar. — Surface Soil. — Dr. Martin de Moussy's Report. — Plan of Parana. — Buildings and Population. — River Banks. — Estancia of an Englishman. — Eeliciana. — La Paz. — The Jefe de Politica and the Curate. — Fuel. — Pass of San Juan. — Course of the River. — Sullivan's Charts. — Wild Fowl. — The Espinilla. — Capibaras or Capinchas. — Locusts. — Catching a Deer. — Riacho Caraguatay. — Riacho San Geronimo. — Goya. — Capincha Chase. — Bella Vista. — Productions. — Fishing. — Tobacco Island. — Hunting for Specimens. — Taquari Chico. — An Orange Estancia.— The Camilote. — Arrival at Corrientes. — Visit to the Governor. — Visit from the Governor. — City of Corrientes. — Easy Navigation of the River. — -Fine Woods for Fuel. — Resources of the River Provinces. — Table of Distances Page 79

Chapter VI

The Waters of the Paraguay and Parana. — Affluents of the Paraguay. — Enter the Territory of Paraguay. — Salute to the Admiral of the Navy of the Republic of Paraguay. — Visit from the Admiral. — Boundaries of the South American Republics.—Banks of the Paraguay. — Palm-trees and beautiful Scenery. — Guardias and Piquetes. — Tres Bocas. — Guardia Humaita. — President Lopez and the Brazilian Squadron. — Vermejo River. — Pillar. — Caria. — Caranday Palm. — The Tibiquari. — Salute of Musketry. — Villa Franca. — The Commandante. — The Lasso and Bolas. — Oliva. — Villa Villeta, — A Cigar with the Commandante. — San Antonio. — Mount Lambare. — Arrival at Asuncion. — Rise and Fall of the Paraguay 105

Chapter VII

Interviews with President Lopez. — Negotiations. — Residence at Asuncion. — The City. — Buildings. — Francia's Tomb. — Francia's Cruelties. — Isolation of Paraguay.— Francia's System. — Dahlgreen's Howitzer. — The American Company. — Celebration of Lopez's Birth-day. — Reception at the Government House. — Grand Ball at the Residence of the Chief Justice. — The Speech 116

Chapter VIII

Departure from Asuncion. — The President's Quinta. — Salinas. — A Hill. — The Confnso, — The Salado. — Estancia of Lopez. — Variety of Woods and Fruits. — Quebracho.— Capiepomo. — Guazu. — Cattle. — Hospitality. — River Scenery. — An Accident to Engine. — Piquete Ytati. — Wood for Steamers. — Plants and S limbs. — River Jejui. — San Pedro. — Another Accident to Engine. — Guaycuru Rembiu. — Government Estancia. — The Pacu Fish. — River Changes. — The Ypane. — Arrival at Concepcion 128

Chapter IX

Concepcion. — Verba. — Government Monopolies and Restrictions placed upon Trade. — Favorable Reception. — Guembe and Guembetaya. — The Water Witch. — ABall :it the Commandante'e House;. — A Quandary. — Danced down. — Senor Tachiera. — Costumes. — Wood for Steamer. — Rio Saladillo. — Salinas. — Indians. — The Cacique*. — A Shaking of Hands and a Smoke. — Palm Forest. — Salvador. — Heat.

CONTENTS. Xi

— State of the Country. — The Abatiguaniba.— Caraguatay Guazu. — Manufactures of its Thread. — Thorns converted into Needles. — The Datil. — Reptile Hunting. —Supplies. — Value of Hide. — Piquete Arracife. — Heat. — Paso Melo. — Mounted Indians from the Chaco. — Piquete Judiarte. — Guardia Apatuya. — Beautiful Scenery. — The Morada and Ytapucu Guazu.' — The Children of the Gran Chaco. — Equestrian and Pedestrian. — Size, Strength, and Longevity. — An Octogenarian in the Flower of his Age. — Nabidigua. — TheMbayas. — Their Slaves. — The Guarani. — Spiritual Notions of the Aborigines. — No Word for God or Divinity. — Aharaigichi. — Jupa. — Inferior Creatures or not? Page 136

Chapter X

Rio Appa. — A Tapir. — Differences between Brazil and Paraguay as to the Boundaries.— Letter from Mr. Hudson. — Point Rock. — Sierra Siete Punta. — Pan de Azucar. — Ascent of the Mountain. — The View. — Speculations on the Future of this Country. — Round Top. — Fort Bourbon. — Claims of Bolivia and Paraguay. — Bahia Blanca. — Vuelta Pariquito. — Capon Chico. — A Boa. — Dorado, Pacu, and Palometa. — Ascent of the Bahia Blanca. — Camelotas. — Suspending of the Bottle to a Tree. — Proposition of Don Manuel Louis de Oliden. — Grant by the Congress of Bolivia. — Decree of the Supreme Government: — Importance attached to the Navigation of the Otuquis. — Extract from a Pamphlet by Mauricio Back. — Fort Coimbra. — Flattering Expressions of the Commandante. — The Guaycurus. — Policy of Brazil toward the Chaco Indians. — The Canoe 160

Chapter XI

The Moro Dorito. — Curalo Todo. — Tea, Coffee, and Milk. — Position of Anchorage off Albuquerque. — The Miranda. — The Tacuary. — Azara's Maps, — The Cambarasa. — The Paraguay Mini. — Corumba. — The Guatambu. — Hunting the Jaguar.— Fruits. — Return to Albuquerque. — Village of Mbayas. — An Indian Mission.— Rice and Cotton. — Schools. — The Padre. — A Dance. — Missionary Effort. — The Jesuits. — The Dinner on board the Water Witch. — Trade of Cuyaba. — Bolivian Refugees. — The Grotto Inferno. — Capture of a Sentinel. — Fate of the Refugees. — Birds. — The Jaguar. — Its Ferocity. — Lenguas Indians. — The Commandante wears a long Face. — The Yellow Parrot. — Anchored off Asuncion. — A Storm brewing 182

Chapter XII

The Captain of the Port. — Momentous Question. — A Call at the Government House. — The Secretary of State. — Visit to the President. — The Anniversary of Paraguayan Independence. — Minor Explorations. — Congress of 1812. — The Consuls. — Francia. — Provisional Junta. — Another Congress. — President Lopez.— The Constitution. — Ignorance of the People. — Society. — Senoritas and Flowers. — Paraguay Tobacco and Smokers. — The Siesta. — Another Call upon the President. — The Vaquerano. — A Tour into Paraguay. — SenorDon JaimiCorvallan. — Periju. — Sefiora Dalmacia. — Villa Rica. — Don Louis Homan. — The Tebiquari. — The Recado. — Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria. — The Dinner. — The Peripo. — Mr. Francis Wisner. — Sefior Sergente Lopez. — Seiiora Clara. — Manufacture of Cigars. — The Taquari. — Fertility of the Country. — Medical Men. — Healthful Climate. — Puebla Carmen. — Don Mariana. — The Yun. — El Secretario. — Ytapua 198 xii CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII

Francia. — Religion and the Churches. — Ytapua. — The Commandante and Soldiers. — Navigability of the Parana. — Carmen. — Equipments of Horses. — Mission of San Cosmi. — Estancia San Rafael.— Mate. — Frescoes. — D. Ignacio's Horse. — Capilla San Martin. — The Supper. — Missions Santa Maria and Santa Rosa. — Estancia of Senora Casara. — The Merchant President. — Seflor Cabefias. — Capilla Caapucu. — Senor Vasconcellos. — The Diezmo. — Public Lands. — Sefior Bergarran. — Iron Works. — The Waiter. — The Superintendent. — Ibicui. — Mineral Districts. — Products and Exports of Paraguay. — The Surgeon of the Water Witch. — Beauty and Fertility of the Country. — Presidential Election. — No Admittance. — A Motion to make the President Emperor. — The Constitution. — Individual Wealth. — Cotton. — Lists of Exports from Asuncion Page 224

Chapter XIV

Expedition under Geronimo Metorras. — Colonel Arrias. — Murillo and Lapa. — Colonel Ariadne Cornejo. — Don Pablo Soria. — Steamer Pilcomayo.- — Lieutenant Powell instructed to enter the Interior of Paraguay. — Want of Game and Fish. — Force of the Current. — Tobas Indians. — Nacurutu. — Palms. — Rio Saco. — De loi Carui. — Visit to the Toldo — Paso da Lurbi. — River ascended one hundred and twenty Miles. — Channel. — Descending a Cascade. — A Hunt with Dr. Carter.— Lost. — Signals. — The Howitzer replies. — Safe Return. — Descending the River. — Mr. Hickman. — Letter from Mr. Dana 243

Chapter XV

Visit to the President. — Boat-cruise up the Riachuelo. — Victoria Regia or Mais del Agua. — Orange Groves. — The Plow. — Posta Contaro. — San Cosmi. — Ytati. — Hacienda Yrisbugua. — Race with an Ostrich. — Breaking a Horse. — Troubles at Asuncion. — Visit to the President. — Consultation with Mr. Hopkins. — Return to the Government-house. — Last Interview with his Excellency. — The Permit. —Correspondence with Mr. Falcon. — Council at Head-quarters. — Americans on board, descending the River. — The Navy heaves in Sight. — Passing the Admiral.— The President's Indignation and the Seminario. — The Treaty. — Mr. Falcon's extraordinary Letter. — False Charges in the President's Message. — The French Colony. — The Brazilian Squadron. — Outrage committed upon the Water Witch.— What our Policy with South American States should be 263

Chapter XVI

Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Montevideo.— Mr. Murdaugh ordered to explore the southern and western parts of the Province. — Extract from Journal of Lieutenant Murdaugh.— Cotton.— Saladas.— Sugar.— San Roque.— Return to Bella Vista.— Goya.— Rincon de Soto.— A Tour in the Governor's Galera.— A Bivouac—Curuzu Quatia.— Return. —River Mirinay.— Estancia Bonpland.— Restauracion.— Uruguayana. — Note from M. Bonpland.— Imprisonment of the Naturalist.—Tobacco.— Coffee.— Lagoon of Ybera 288

Chapter XVII

The Dinner at Corricntes.— The Address.— Toasts and Wine.— A Cargo of Lumber.—The Baladero. — The Water Witch dispatched up the Parana.— Sudden Return of Lieutenant Jeffers.— The Steamer run aground by the Pilot.— Fired into from the Port, killing the Helmsman.— False Claims of President Lopez to the Channel.— Erroneous Statements and Fancy Sketches of the President of

CONTENTS. Xlll

Paraguay. — Affection for the Salto Grande. — Dispatch to our Government. — Its Contents refuted. — Return to Buenos Ayres. — Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Eio. — Arrival of the Savannah. — Indecision of the Commodore. — Refusal to grant the Guns. — United States Legation versus United States Squadron. — What should have been done. — Dispatch from Sefior Vasquez. — The Commodore impressed with the Fact of the Parana containing sufficient Depth of Water to admit a Sloop of War Page 301

Chapter XVIII

Island of Martin Garcia. — Pass of San Juan. — Town of Higueritas. — The Brasso Bravo. — Rio Negro. — The Gualaguaychu.— Conception. — Frey Bentos. — Fine Pasturage. — Herds of Cattle. — Arrival at Concepcion. — College. — Saladeros. — Town of Paisandu. — An Englishman's Estancia. — Current of the River. — Palm Forests of Entre Rios. — The Arroyo Grande. — Paso Heredera. — Town of Concordia.— Trade. — Salto. — The Salto Grande. — Killing a Partridge. — Rise of Water.— Tide. — Track Survey of the Rio Negro. — Town of Soriana. — Mercedes. — Sarsaparilla. — Fossil Remains. — Megatherium and Glyptodon. — Health of this Region of Country. — Cattle and Estancias 318

Chapter XIX

Chartering of the little Steamer. — Arrival at Santa Fe. — Province of Santa Fe. — Civil Wars and Independence. — Wood. — Ascent of the River. — Animal Life. — Ducks, Jaguars, Capibaras, and Armadillos. -^-The Diver, Podiceps leucopterus. — Planting of sweet Potatoes. — The Crucito. — The Saladito. — La Cruz. — The Bed of a Lagoon. — Monte Aguara. — The Return. — Current and Width of the River. — The Jaguar. — Density of the Salado Water. — Journey by Land to the upper Waters.— A Tatu. — Quebracho. — The Mirage. — The surly Officer. — The Tongue of the taciturn Argentino loosened. — The Segundo. — Tio or Concepcion. — Algorroba and Soil. — Arrival at Cordova. — List of Distances 332

Chapter XX

Cordova. — De Garay. — Population of the Province. — The City of Cordova. — Trade.

— Rail-road surveyed by Mr. Campbell. — Madam . — Cathedral and Public

Buildings. — The Colegio Maximo. — Paintings. — Dr. Hawling's Tannery. — The Market. — Copper in the Sierras of Cordova. — Sefior Zuverir. — Mineral Districts. — A Journey to Santiago. — Appearance of the Horses : their Powers of Endurance.— Valley of Jesus Maria. — Shepherds' Dogs. — Divisidero. — Posta San Pedro.— Rosario. — Hard Riding. — Posta del Monte. — Bed of the Rio Dulce. — Quichua Language. — Perqui. — The Harpist. — The Tropero. — A Dance and no Supper. — Cafia. — Another Tropa. — Arrival at Santiago 348

Chapter XXI

Santiago. — Government House. — Trade and Population. — No Hotels. — Pair of Gloves. — Visit to the Governor. — Don Taboado. — The Boat. — Quintas and Fruits. — Chills at Santiago. — The Pic-nic. — The Dulce. — Bed of the Salado. — The Saladillo.— TheFlor del aria.— The Ulna.— Luxuriant Foliage.— The Slevre. — Bees. — The Toisini. — Yafia. — Moso Moso. — Mestiso Quilaya. — Cani. — Quella and Alframisqui. — The Eyrobafia. — Wax.— The Cochineal. — Lassoing a Mule. — Price of Mules. — Launching the Boat. — A Bivouac. — Arrival at Salvador. — Banks of the Salado. — Birds. — Estancia Figarra. — " Que Animal." — Arrival at Matara. — The Dance and the little Child. — The Priests. — Incursions of the Chaco Indians. — List of Trees. — Quebracho. — Algorroba. — Vinal. — Quilin. — Chana. — Mistal. — Vinay. — Tola.— Puna. — Gumi. — Quimel. — Cardon 361 xiv CONTENTS.

Chapter XXII

Bajada Sause. — Women pursued by Indians. — Laguna Toma Caphuyan. — Estancia Granrilla Bracho. — A Night's Sleep interrupted by the Governor's Troop in pursuit of Indians. — Fording the Lagoon. — The Scouts on the Trail. — Indians in Sight, — The White Men defied. — A Charge. — Another Pursuit. — Disappearance in the Forest. — Hunger, Thirst, and a sound Sleep in the Rain. — The old Estancieros. — Hostility of the Indians. — Navicha. — Paso Sandia. — Pastures. — Monte Aquara. — Monte Tigre. — Arrival of an additional Force. — Musquitoes and Rain. — Farther Advance of the Party. — On another Trail. — Swimming the River. —The Volleys. — Indians. — The would-be Captive. — -The dying Soldier. — The Bullet and a Cigar. — Monte del Muerta. — The Current running up. — The Return Page 374

Chapter XXIII

Crossing at Paso Mistol. — A Cordon of Posts. — Paso la Torre. — A Wild-goat Chase. — Navigation of the Salado. — Senora Mendez. — Sleep in the Open Air. — Reservoirs of Water. — Drought. — Arrival at Santiago. — A Ball. — Toasts. — Fine Dancing. — River Dulce. —Road to Tucuman. — Approach the Andes. — Woodland. — Rio Tala. — Mountains. — Scenery. — Arrival at Tucuman. — Hotels in La Plata. — Dr. Priestly. — Sugar-Plantation. — Molasses, Sugar, and Rum Establishment.— Cultivation of the Sugar-cane. — A Dinner at Senor Zavalier's. — Senora and her Daughters. — A Ride into the Country. — Scenery. — Dinner and Ball at the Governor's. — Beauty of Spanish- American Women. — Province of Tucuman. — The Capital. — Progress. — Statistics. — Cultivation. — Start for Salta. — Valleys. — Productive Capacity of the Soil. — Wheat. — Mountain Road. — Posta Romero. — The foiled Post-master. — Alimana. — Grassy Basin. — Destitute Post-master.— Valley Chiguano. — Upper Waters of the Salado. — Products of Valley Chiguano. — River Rosario. — Ford the Arrias. — Arrive at Salta 394

Chapter XXIV

A Night at a Zambo. — Messrs. Pelacio. — Acts of Courtesy. — Province of Salta. — Population. — Products.— ^Salinas. — The Capital. — Advantages of Salado Navigation.— Mules. — Leather and Wool. — Trees. — The Pacaray. — Silk Rolls. — Wheat. — Copper. — Governor. — Music and Dancing. — Exiled Bolivians. — Revolutionary state of Bolivia. — Departure from Salta. — Tropas of Asses. — Lake Cabo. — Simbola. — Rivers Pasaje and Las Piedras. — Forests. — Little Use of Milk in La Plata. — Forest of Sevil. — Don Martin Giiemes. — Breakfast in the Forest. — Stage-coach. — Ferry-boats. — Beauty of Country. — Arrival at Tucuman. — Horsehack Travel. — Gaucho Life. — Visit from the Governor. — Map of the Province of Tucuman. — Farewell to Friends in Tucuman. — Day's Ride. — Dulce Boat. — Santiago and Reception at the Governor's. — Head Waters of the Salado. — Laboring Classes in Santiago. — Hospitality of Spanish-Americans. — Harvest. — Narrow pe. — ■ Horses. — A Cordova Posta. — Fined for fast Riding. — Leave Cordova. —Return Route across the Pampas. — Galera from Rosario. — Diligencia. — River Tercero. — Tropa of Mules from San Juan. — River Quarto. — Fording the Quarto. Pop-corn Party. — Division Line between Cordova and Santa Fe. — Postillion. — Growth of Rosario. — British Consul. — Farther Examinations of La Plata Channels.— Preparations for Departure. — Letters of Recall. — Boatswain's Call. — Germantown. — Lieutenant Ridgely. — Home 412

CONTENTS. xv

Chapter XXV

Extent of Exploration. — Depth of Water in the Paraguay. — Sources of that River. — Junction with the Parana. — The Parana River. — Tributaries of the Paraguay. — The Confuso and Otuquis. — Expeditions up and down the Pilcomayo. — Northern and Southern Branch. — Little Success at its Navigation. — The Vermejo. — Its Navigability confirmed. — The Salado. — "River Bottom." — Falls of Apipe. — The Gran Salto. — The River above. — Islands and Rapids. — The Uruguay. — The Salto Grande. — Beauty of adjacent Country. — La Plata. — Its Mouth at the Capes. — Structure of the Parana Banks. — Tos'ca. — Rock Eormation on the Paraguay.— Entrance to a Mountain Region. — The Great Gulf. — Birth of Rivers. — Callera de Arriola. — Retirement of the Sea. — Fossil Remains and Estuary Mud. — Diluvial and Alluvial Periods. — Encroachments of Land and Water. — Harbor of Buenos Ayres. — Fertility of Soil. — Fruits and Vegetation. — Medicinal Plants and Woods. — Climate. — Navigation of the Rivers. — Letter from the Governor of Santiago. — Exclusive Privileges granted to Companies. — Suitable Vessels. — Paraguay. — Products and Advantages for Trade. — Interests of Bolivia.— Immigration. — Brossard. — Thiers and Guizot upon the Country of La Plata. — What foreign Governments have done. — What our Policy should be... Page 431

Chapter XXVI

First Discovery of the River La Plata by Solis. — Death of Solis. — Sebastian Cabot. — First Settlement in La Plata. — Explorations of Cabot. — Indian Hostilities. — Highway to El Dorado. — Don Diego Garcia. — Cabot's Dispatch to the Emperor. — Pizarro. — Cabot superseded. — Don Pedro de Mendoza. — His Expedition to La Plata. — Founding of Buenos Ayres. — Hostility of the Indians. — Attack upon Buenos Ayres. — Ayolas. — His Expedition up the River. — Death of Mendoza. — Destruction of the Spaniards under Ayolas. — Don Dominguez Yrala. — Founding of Asuncion. — Indian Conspiracy. — The Spaniards and the Natives. — Don Alvaro Nunez de Vaca. — His Journey across the Continent. — Administration of De Vaca. — He is sent back to Spain. — Yrala appointed Adelantado. — Asuncion erected into a Bishopric. — Disasters of the first Adventurers. — Successful Administration of Trala. — Commanderies. — Death of Yrala. — Zarate and Garay. — Victory over the Indians. — First export Cargo. — Death of Garay. — Final Conquest of La Plata. — Separation from Paraguay 449

Chapter XXVII

Arrival of the Jesuits in South America. — A pious Fraud. — Early Missionaries. — St. Francis Solano. — Chaco Indians. — Fathers Cataldino and Marcerata proceed to Guayra. — Foundation of Loreto. — St. Ignatius, St. Thomas, and the twelve Missions. — Establishment and Destruction of the Uruguay Reductions. — Mame • lucos of St. Paul. — Persecutions of the Indians. — Attack upon Guayra. — Retreat of the twelve Thousand to the Salto Grande. — Descent of the Falls. — Peace at last. — Renewal of the Uruguay Reductions. — Bickerings between Ecclesiastics and Laymen. — Retreat of another twelve thousand. — Fathers De Montoya and Tano are dispatched to the Continent : their Missions are crowned with Success.— Fire-arms and papal Briefs. — Another Attack of the Mamelucos. — Battle of Acaray. — Triumph of the Reduction Indians. — DonBernardin de Cardenas. — Excommunications. — Penitence of the Governor. — Deposition of the Bishop. — Return to Asuncion.— The Dictator. — Cardenas is relieved of his assumed Authority and retires to La Plata. — Defeat of the Mamelucos and Guaycurus. — Services of the Reduction Indians 465 xvi CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVIII

Fathers placed in charge of the Missions : their Duties and Power. — Opinions and Researches of Azara. — Foundation of St. Joachim and of Belen. — Means and Measures adopted. — Jesuit Reduction. — College. — Dispensary, Gardens. — The Arsenal and Soldiery. — Sham-fights. — The Church: its Splendor. — Music. — Attendance at Church Service. — Fetes and Processions. — Clothing. — Schools. — Police System. — Daily Life. — Labor in the Fields. — Christian Republic. — Social Equality. — Mercantile Restrictions. — God's Inheritance Page 493

Chapter XXIX

Tarija Missions. — Failures. — Confided to Franciscan Friars. — Spanish Settlement in the Province of Chiquitos. — Foundation and Removal of Santa Cruz Missions. — First Establishment by Father Arce. — Successive Reductions. — Native Officials.— Jesuit System. — Abipones. — Concepcion and the Rosary. — Dobrizhoffer. — Voyage along the Coast of Patagonia.— Patagonia Missions. — Revolt of Indians.— Cangapol , 506

Chapter XXX

Stability of the Christian Church. — Contest for the Governorship of Asuncion. — Antequera. — Expulsion of the Jesuits. — Defeat of Don Balthazar Garcia Rosas. — Zavala.— Flight of Antequera, his Arrest and Execution. — Appointment of Don John de Barua. — Return of the Jesuits. — Rebellion in Paraguay. — Communeros andContrabandos. — A President. — Another Expulsion of the Jesuits. — Don Manuel de Ruiloba, Governor of Asuncion. — A Defender. — Zavala enters Asuncion. — Contest at the Court of Madrid. — Triumph of the Jesuits. — Their exclusive Policy. — Suspicions revived. — The Contest renewed.-— Sebastian Carvalho, Marquis of Pombal. — The boundary Line. — Attempt to assassinate King Joseph. — Expulsion of the Order from Portugal and France. — Squillaci. — Charles III. — Aranda. — The Jesuits driven from Spain. — A Cruise at Sea. — Final Landing at Corsica. — Letter of the Pope. — Bucareli. — Viceroy of Buenos Ayres, his Messengers and Dispatches. — Plans thwarted. — Sudden Arrest of the Fathers. — Destruction of the Cordova Library. — Memorial of the Indians in behalf of the Order. — Alarms of the Viceroy. — Expedition against the Parana and Uruguay Reductions. — The Fathers shipped for Europe. — Fate of the Missions 526

Chapter XXXI

False Policy of Spain toward the Colonies. — Treaty of Utrecht. — Foundation of Montevideo. — Contrabandists. — Treaty of 1750. — Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. — Treaty of St. Ildefonso. — Final Concessions of the Mother Country. — Expedition under Sir Home Popham. — Capture of Buenos Ayres. — Assault of Montevideo.— Defeat of General Whitelock. — Liniers. — Joseph Bonaparte. — A Portuguese Pretender. — Cisneros. — Assembly of July 9th, 1816. — Independence of Paraguay, Bolivia, and Buenos Ayres. — Disadvantages the South American People labored under for forming a good Government. — The Banda Oriental. — Urquiza. — Oribe. — Battle of Monte Caseros. — Convention at St. Nicolas. — Courtesy extended to our Minister. — Disaffection of Buenos Ayres. — Siege of that City 552

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Map of the Basin of La Plata at the end of the volume.

*4 The Steamer Water Witch Frontispiece.

Montevideo, from the Fort on the Mountain 33

Portrait of President Urquiza 41

Marking Cattle 54

San Jose, the Estancia of Urquiza 56

The Galera 58

College of Concepcion 60

Corrientes — Upper End 102

Corrientes — Lower End 102

Use of the Lasso and Bolas.. 112

Portrait of President Lopez 117

Asuncion — First View 121

Asuncion — Second View 121

The Cabildo, Asuncion 123

The Cathedral, Asuncion 124

Curing Yerba 137

Meeting Indians on the Chaco 149

Termination of Spur of Ytapucu Gazo 153

Pan de Azucar 163

Fort Bourbon, or Olimpo 168

Fort Coimbra 178

Saddle-shaped Mountain 185

Corumba 187

Plaza of Albuquerque 189

Lengua Indians at Salvador 197

Portrait of Francia, the Dictator 202

Costumes of the Interior 209

Dinner at the Puerta del Estado 214

Crossing the Taquari 219

v Mate and Bombilla 227

Supper at San Martin 230

Steamer Pilcomayo and Paraguay Guardia 246

Indians fishing in the Vermejo 252

Passing the Guardia Tres Bocas 278

Attack upon the Water Witch 306

Chart of the Mouth of the Parana 309

Shooting a Jaguar 341

Tropa of Carretas encamped 357

Pursuit of the Indians 379

Attack at the Paso Mistol 390

A Gaucho 396

An Estanciero 420

Sierra Siete Punto 438

Portrait of Ignatius Loyola 465

Diagrams of Observations 605-6

. 2