A journey to the source of the River Oxus

Front matter

A JOURNEY

SOURCE OP THE RIVER OXUS.

A JOURNEY

Preface To The Second Edition

travellers, have poured a flood of light upon the question, and the truth and reliability of Wood's drawings and reports are now fully established. The " Edinburgh review " for January, 1872, contains an able and exhaustive article on this subject, tracing the origin and course of the so-called Klaproth forgeries and their complete refutation by later travellers.

The following remarks briefly show the causes which led to the Expedition, and the estimation in which the work accomplished by it was held by Government.

After Sir Alexander Burnes' voyage up the Indus to Lahore, in 1830, the Indian Government never relaxed its efforts to procure the fullest details respecting that stream and the adjacent countries. The information collected by that officer led to negotiations with every State which bordered on the Indus and its affluents between Lahore and the sea, the enlightened object of which was to confer a boon on Asia by permitting commerce again to circulate through an artery which barbarism had closed. This desirable arrangement was effected by treaty in April, 1832. It was further necessary to have the seaboard of Sind surveyed ; but the expediency of this measure was not at first apparent to its suspicious rulers, nor was the point conceded until the close of 1835. This survey was no easy task ; and for the excellent map of the " Mouths of the Indus " which resulted from it Government were indebted to Lieutenant Carless, I.N.

Aga Mahomed Rahim, a Persian merchant of Bombay, was the first to take advantage of the opening of the Indus for the purposes of trade ; and with a view of outstripping all competitors, and reaping largely of the profits which might be expected in this new field of commercial enterprise, he purchased a steamer for the navigation of the river. At his request, and with the permission of Government, Lieutenant Wood took command of 'this vessel ; and on Saturday, the 31st October, 1835, he, with Dr. Heddle, had the proud satisfaction of unfurling their country's flag on the Indus from the first steamboat that ever floated

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. vii

upon its celebrated waters.1 In February, 1836, the steamer returned to Bombay, leaving Lieutenant Wood on the river to ascertain its periodical rise and fall, to note the spread of the inundation, and to record such other phenomena as might hereafter be useful for its navigation. Having performed this service, failing health, the result of hard work, compelled Lieutenant Wood to leave for Kutch, whence as soon as he was convalescent he proceeded to Bombay. On arrival he found Alexander Burnes engaged in preparing the commercial mission to Affghanistan by the Indus, to which he had been nominated by the Governor-General,

On the 9th November, Lieutenant Wood was appointed an assistant to this mission by Sir Robert Grant's Government, and on the 26th November, 1836, the mission left the harbour of Bombay.

On nearing the Sind coast, Burnes gave written instructions to his coadjutors. The following extracts are from the instructions given to Lieutenant Wood : — " You are aware that one of the objects of this expedition is to ascend the Indus from its mouth to Attock, that a more perfect knowledge of the river may be procured, as well for the purposes of commerce as of war, and this important examination I am instructed by the Government of India to entrust entirely to you. In doing so, I am sure that the experience which you have gained by nearly a year's residence on the banks of the Indus, added to your professional skill and well-known assiduity, will be certain to secure the accomplishment of every object contemplated by

the Governor- General in Council . The instructions

which I have received from the Government of India draw my

1 The boat was named after the profit of 22,673L 10s. for the first six

river, and was of ten-horse power. months of the year. No guaranteed

Thirty-four years later Captain Wood, undertaking in India has done more

as superintendent of the Indus steam than this in proportion to its capital,

flotilla, reports the existence on the or been more successful in a com-

river of a fleet of first-class steamers mercial sense. And this eminent

in the highest state of efficiency, success of the Indus flotilla is attributed

earning for their owners, in 1870, a net entkelyto Captain Wood's management.

6 2

Viii PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

attention to the facility which the country in the neighbourhood of the river affords for the supply of coal, as a most important

point, and this I also beg of you to keep in view.1

I have confined myself to sketching out the general nature of your duties ; but you will of course note particularly the breadth and depth of the stream, the strength of its current, the means of crossing it by boats, the number which may be found on it, and its canals, &c., &c. : but besides these there are many subjects of interest in a country that is in part so little explored to which you might turn your attention with advantage. Your own turn of mind can only suggest such inquiries to you, and while we perform the duty which has been entrusted to us, it is still to be borne in mind that we have it in our power to combine with the correct discharge of that duty the advancement of general knowledge."

(Signed) "A. Burnes.

" On a mission to Cabul."

The following extracts from reports by Sir A. Burnes, wherein that officer does full justice to the perseverance and zeal of Lieutenant Wood, will best show how these instructions were carried out. Writing from Cabool, under date 30th October, 1837, he says : — " I have the honour to transmit, for the purpose of being laid before the right honourable the Governor-General in Council, a geographical notice of the Valley of the Cabool river, by Lieutenant John Wood, Indian Navy. The valuable and interesting account now given of the physical geography of this tract of country, correcting as it does the position of several places on the earth's surface, will, I respectfully believe, procure for the labours of Lieutenant Wood the approval of his Lordship in Council."

1 Burnes writes from Simla under the discovery of coal on the eastern

date August, 1838 : — " I have the ex- bank of the Indus. The specimens

treme satisfaction to forward for the accompany this letter."

information of the right honourable Unfortunately these beds of coal

the Governor- General an original proved of such small depth as to render

letter from Lieut. Wood, announcing their profitable working impracticable.

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. ix

Again, under date 4th April, 1838, Burnes thus reports the discovery of the source of the Oxus: — "It is with extreme satisfaction I report that Lieutenant Wood has successfully accomplished his explorations and discovery of the source of the Oxus, and, having overcome the many difficulties that beset him, returned in safety to Kunduz." And in October, 1838, Wood's services are particularly brought forward in these terms : — " The unremitting attention of this officer throughout will be apparent to his Lordship in Council in the perusal of his clear and practical report, while his own zeal and assiduity appear in the precision, variety, and extent of the information. A most important subject, the successful navigation of the Indus, is finally settled. Under these circumstances, I beg respectfully to submit, for the consideration of the right honourable the Governor-General, the advisability of making this report known without delay, that the widest circulation may be given to facts which have only been determined after two years' labour, and which it cannot be doubted will shortly lead the merchant and trader to the Indus."

It is unfortunate that so promising a career should so soon have been checked, and that the services of an officer whose merit was of no ordinary standard, and whose experience and devotion had been fully tried, should not have been further utilized in the same field. But having, as it were, been a mouthpiece for British assurances to the semi-barbarians of Affghanistan, his conscientious nature could not approve the later action of the Indian Government towards them, and a rupture with those whom he had assured of his countrymen's good- will left him no alternative but to retire. In connection with this subject, extracts from letters of the late Sir A. Burnes, now in my possession, and hitherto unpublished, may not prove

uninteresting, especially in view of the sad conclusion of that distinguished man's intercourse with the Affghans. He writes

from Cabool in February, 1841 : — "We had a hard struggle for

our existence here, but all went well, and Dost Mahomed x PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

surrendered, and I had the singular honour of being the man 1 who mainly influenced it,' as the public despatch says. We followed the poor man everywhere, and there was no rest for the sole of his foot. His interview with me was very affecting ; he said that Russia had misled him, that his ignorance never laid bare to him what we meant (a delicate way of saying we meant nothing), that the Persians at Herat started the Kuzzilbashes at Cabool, &c. &c. ; but neither to me personally, nor in my absence, did he use a disparaging word, and on our departure he gave me his sword, his all indeed that was left, and bade me ke'ep it as the remembrance of a man who regarded me. I hardly know how we shall ultimately end here. Many of them say we must take the country, and set the king aside; to. me this seems pure folly, but clever fellows think otherwise. Of our coming here at all I say nothing now. Our connection should have been diplomatic, and not military ; but the more I said, the less the great men believed ; they thought I was favouring Dost Mahomed, forgetting it was the good of my masters I sought. For two or three lacs I could have made all square, and after spending five or six millions we are nearer the beginning than the end. But, in truth, Shah Mirza will do well and prosper if we will but let him alone and do as his countrymen wish, but we won't. Every man comes here and makes a Barataria of his own ; one man even proposed a constitution, another has gone to form a society for the suppression of vice amongst the Uzbecks ! Truly common sense is very uncommon sense. The Envoy and I are great friends, we understand each other ; he is tired of the business, and wants to get away."

It is not my intention to treat of what is now a matter of history, and the above has only been inserted as an interesting relic of its author.

After leaving the service Captain Wood emigrated to New Zealand, in connection with the then newly formed New 'Zealand Company; but finding the advantages derivable from

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. xi

his association with this undertaking greatly over-estimated, he returned to Europe, and by his representations on the subject was greatly instrumental in furthering the interests of the settlers in that colony and increasing her prosperity.

Between the years 1843 and 1849, Captain Wood's attention was mainly given to mercantile pursuits ; but in the latter year we find his name again brought forward in connection with his early sphere of usefulness, by Sir Charles Napier, then proceeding to assume command of the army in India. Knowing Wood from his book, and hearing much of him from Lord Ellenborough, Sir Charles was anxious to have him with him in Sind and the Punjab ; feeling that his intimate knowledge of the rivers of these provinces might be of incalculable service in the face of what was then to all appearance certain, a protracted war in the Punjab. On Wood's consenting to return, application for his services was made. Both the Duke of Wellington and Sir Charles considered the matter of great importance, but, strange to say, the request was curtly refused by the Court of Directors, whose inimical spirit to the new commander-in-chief denied him any assistance they were in a position to afford. It appears strange that, supported by such men as the Duke, Lord Ellenborough, and Lord Fitzroy Somerset, Sir Charles's request should have been denied ; but so it was, and in after years when bitterly complaining of the opposition he had encountered, we find the old general citing Wood's case as one of the most marked rebuffs he had experienced.

A natural fondness for a settler's life led my father again to turn his attention to the colonies, and in 1852 he embarked for Australia. Here he was greatly solicited to take a prominent part in the politics of the then rising colony of Victoria ; but that retiring disposition which was in him second nature, would not allow of his doing more than suggesting improvements, and all efforts on the part of his friends to induce him to accept a seat in the Legislative Council were unavailing.

xii PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Returning to Europe in 1857, his co-operation was sought by an eminent engineer, whose scheme for the navigation of Indian rivers by a train of articulated barges was at the time attracting much attention. Once more Sind was the field chosen and in 1858 he proceeded to Kurrachee as manager of the Oriental Inland Steam Navigation Company. Finding the project practically a failure, he with characteristic energy suggested alterations which would have rendered the vessels suitable for the peculiarly rapid current of the Indus ; but the shareholders were not guided by his counsels, and the result was the ruin and wind-up of the concern.

In 1861, Mr. W. P. Andrew, the spirited projector of railway and river communication in Western India, secured Captain Wood's services for the Indus steam flotilla, and he continued to superintend this undertaking with great success until his death on the 13th of November last. An oft-repeated wish of my honoured father's was " rather to wear than to rust out ; " and those who knew him of late years can understand how thoroughly this has been so to the last. Fatigue consequent upon a hurried journey to Simla, undertaken in the interest of his employers, at the height of the hot season, brought about his last illness, and the numerous marks of respect for his memory and regard for his character received by his family f are pleasing though most melancholy proofs that his career of usefulness and large-heartedness has left its mark for good upon those with whom he was throughout life for the most part associated.

Alexander Wood.

Contents

PAGE

Preface to the Second Edition v

Essay on the Geography of the Valley of the Oxus xxi

Chapter I

Embarkation on the Indus. — Seaports of Sind. — A Dutch gun-brig. — Changes in the course of the Indus. — Present to the Amirs. — Pir Putta. — Site and Shrine. — T'hat'hah. — Manufactures. — Antiquity. — Falling banks. — Fishing on Kinjor Lake. — Sonda. — Aspect of the country. — Alligators. — Alligator feast. — Beluches. — Arabs. — A shooting match. — J irk. — Arts in Sind. — Ha'iderabad Mausolea. — Lakkat. — Shooting. — Hawking. — Archery. 1

Chapter II

Halla. — Manufacture of earthenware. — Chunniah. — Ruins of Khodabad. — Altars of Alexander. — Otters. — Black partridge. — Castle at Sihwan. — River and Crops. — Absence of trees. — Pulla-fish. — Fisheries. — Dur-myani. — WulH Mohamed Laghari. — Arrival of Dr. Lord. — Arore. — Mulala. — Importunity of fakirs. — Anecdote. — B'hkur, Rori, Sukur. — Sand storm. — Battle of Sukur. — A Mohamedan's beard 18

Chapter III

Shikarpur. — A fair. — Shoes. — Sindi ignorance. — Bad roads. — Wheeled vehicles. — Predatory tribes. — Unsettled country. — Remarks. — Tiger-prints. — Buffaloes. — Swimming the Indus. — Horned Cattle. — Herdsmen. — Plundered village. — Journey to Ahmedpur. — Bullock-hackeries. — Nawab's Palace. — Guards. — Followers. — Warlike appearance. — Interview with Bhawul Khan. — Bhawulpur. — A French adventurer. — Uch. — A drunken Afghan. — Arrival at Mittun-Kote. — Indus. — Accounts of the river by ancient and modern authors ....... 30

Chapter IV

Mittun-Kote. — Trial by ordeal. — Departure from Mittun-Kote. — Character of the country. — Kaldras. — Arrival at Dhera Ghazf Khan. — A trading mart. — Wrestling matches. — Alteration in the river. — Departure for Dhera Ismael Khan. — Aspect of the country. — Irrigating dams. — Earthquake of 1819.— Charitable feeling.— A water echo. — Takht-i-Suliman . 45 xiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V. pack

Dhera Ismael Khan. — Old and new town. — Peasantry in the Dherajat. — Departure from Dhera Ismael Khan.— The wild palm. — Difficult tracking, ground. — Kaffir-Kote. — Country of the Esaw Kyi.— Khan Beg Khan. — Ahmed Khan, chief of the Esaw Kyi. — Interview with the chieftain. — Dislike to the Seiks. — Kurum river. — Pebbles in the bed of the Indus. — Arrival at Kalabagh. — The Indus during its swell.— Submerged island. — Unceremonious removals. — Pendant nests. — Mirage. — Bulrush-gatherers 5 1

Chapter VI

Town of Kalabagh. — High temperature. — River bathing. — Amphibious population.— Hindu Sunday's amusement. — Their general character. — Alum works. — Arrival of a Seik army. — Instructions. — Departure for Attock by the river. — The Duggah. — Swan river. — Dinghot. — Mukkud. — Author's mishap. — Town of Mukkud. — Influence of rain on the Indus. — Bnndewnn rivulet. — Mountain torrents. — Dead bodies. — Ascent of the river abandoned.— Success of the Seiks. — Departure for Attock by land. — Guide.

— Sagri Patans. — Seik bad faith.— Jats and Awans.— Arrival at Attock . 03

Chapter VII

Embarkation at Attock. — Berri island. — An open plain. — Hurrii river. — Mountains. — Character of the Navigation. — Nilab. — Ghori-Tarap whirlpool.— Dangerous eddies. — Great depth of the river. — A Kuttock outwitted.— Muncu. — Dangers off the Toe river and Soheilf rocks.— Dubber mountains. — Fearful eddies. — The Indus among mountains. — In the plain.

— Characteristics of both. — Great velocity of the stream. — Dreadful when confined. — Upward navigation impracticable. — Villages on the river . 75

Chapter VIII

Escort. — Salt range. — A benevolent fakir. — Water-stored shed. — Pass of Shukur Durah. — Village. — Bungf Kyi.— Agha Maheide.— Start for Kohat. — Country improves. — Banks of the Toe River. — Frontier lines. — Superstitions.— Fine valleys. — Shadi Kyi. — Kohat. — Plain. — Town. — Fort. — Seik soldiers. — A love-sick youth ........ 82

Chapter IX

An Excursion in the Kuttock country. — Misfortunes at starting.— Sulphur mines and Naphtha springs.— Reflections. — A warm bivouac. — A Kuttock chief.— Gumut village.— Religious and social character of Mohamedans. —Prayers for rain. — Murdered travellers. — A horse exorcised. — Return to Kohat.— Notice of the Kuttocks.— Bungush.— Kheirulah Khan's durbar.— Quit Kohat. — Reach Peshawur. — Agha Maheide. — Kabul river.

Visit Attock.— Return to Peshawur. — Town. — A Seik review. Quit

Peshawur. — Jamrud. — Murdered grass-cutters 90

Chapter X

Wahguruji ka fatteh. — Wussulam Alaikum.— Grinth.— Koran. — Rival nations and creeds.— Enter Khyber.— Seik scalps.— Ali Masjid.— A character. —A mountain torrent.—" Topes."— Presents to the Khyberies.— Height of mountains.— Sufeid Koh.— Pine forests.— Supply of ice.— Province of Nanjhnehar.— Surkh Rud or Red river.— Range and Pass of Karkatcha. —Enter Kabul.— Mohamed Akbar Khan.— Amir Dost Mohamed Khan . 99

CONTENTS. xv

Chapter XI. Page

Map of Afghanistan. — Province of Koh Daman. — Kabul race-course. — Skukur Durah. — A noble prospect. — Beauty of the scenery. — Gardens of Danow and Istalaf. — Baber's description of istalaf. — Great abundance of fruit. — Plain of Begram. — Coins. — Turkish settlers. — Reig Rawan, or the moving sand. — Ziarats. — Dost Mohamed Khan's belief ..... 110

Chapter XII

An Uzbek Ambassador arrives in Kabul. — Object of his Mission. — His success. — Mirza Buddi. — The Passes of Hindu Kosh.— Make choice of Parwan. — Start for Turkistan.- — Afghan Elchi. — A mistake of the Kafila Bashi. — Deserted by the Afghan Elchi. — Bad roads. — Dangers among the Mountains. — Enter the Parwan valley. — Encamp at the foot of the Pass. — Guides. — Ascend the Pass. — Its dangers. — Forced to return. — Death of the Afghan Elchi. — Hindustanies among the snow. — Return to Kabul . .117

Chapter XIII

Start by Bamian for Turkistan. — A hen-pecked husband. — River Helmand. — Immigrant Hazaras. — Tribes. ■ — Allegiance. — Hucksters. — Hazara females. — Depraved hospitality. — Hazara family. — Anecdote. — Pass of Hajikak. — Fuel. — Pass of Kalu. — Pimuri defile. — Ruins of Zohawk. — Akrobat. — Ungracious reception. — A ringing stone. — Sykan. — Assafcetida. — Slave tribute. — Kamrud. — Reflections. — Mirza, Buddi's tenantry. — Mazar ziarat of Hazrat Ali. — Arrival in Kunduz .... . . 125

Chapter XIV

Murad Beg in Durbar. — Kunduz. — Character of the chief. — Uzbeks. — Tribes of Tartary. — Tajiks. — Uzbek intolerance. — Influence of the Mullahs. — Predestination. — Meals. — Salutations. — Horses. — Dogs. — Uzbek ladies. — Cemeteries. — Mohamed Beg's case. — Consultations. — Obtain leave to trace the Oxus 137

Chapter XV

Start on an exploratory expedition. — Fellow travellers. — Gholam Hussein, Abdul Ghuni Yesawal. — Servants. — Marco Polo. — Kunduz Plain. — Phenomena.— Khana-a-bad. — Hospitable students.— Snug quarters. — Reflections.— Badakhshies. — Colleges of Khana-a-bad. — The town. — Journey to Talikhan. — Character of the road. — Nature of the mountains. — Koh Umber. — Eagles and crows. — An embarrassed interview. — Reach Talikhan . 146

Chapter XVI

Ataluk Khan. — A descendant of Alexander the Great. — Talikhan sparrows. — Kirghis slaves. — Market days.— Mohamed Cassim Khojah. — Pass of Latta-band. — Mountain scenery. — Superstitions. — Kila Afghan. — Wolves. — Earthquake. — Karabolak. — Meshid valley. — Legend. — Agurdurah. — Nahwi. — Taishkhan.— Junasdurah. — Wild hogs. — Vale of Duraim.— Plain of Argu. — Reishkhan. — Khojah of Kashgar. — Chittah. — Aspect of country from Latta-band to Chittah. — Absence of inhabitants. — Dreary appearance. — Fyzabad. — Reflections. — GlenofKash. — Arrival in Jerm . . .155 xvi CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. Tage

Interview with the governor of Jerm. — Start for the Lapis-lazuli mines. — A crazy guide. — Partridge hunting. — An unwelcome reception. — The Kokcha river. — An iron mine. — Shrine of ShahNasr. — Firgamu. — Preparations for visiting the mines. — A description of the mines. — A village sacked by Kaffirs. — Anecdote of Abdul Ghuni. — Re-enter Jerm .... 1G5

Chapter XVIII

Badakhshies surprised by winter. — Their dwellings. — Advantages and disadvantages.— Expenses of housekeeping. — Domestic utensils. — Light from reeds. — Dress of the Badakhshies. — Their character. — Winter's employment.— Starved partridges. — Ahmed Shah. — Chinese. — A Jew traveller. — Novel punishment for theft. — An Alchemist outwitted. — A partridge hunt on the banks of the Kokcha. — Earthquakes. — Kaffirs. — Dinner party. — Marriage customs. — The independent Mirza. — The intrepid ironmonger. — A faithful dog. — Register of the weather 174

Chapter XIX

Inhabitants of Badakhshan. — Tajiks. — Kaffirs. — Mullahs. —Good breeding of the lower classes. — Grave deportment of Mohamedan children. — Arrival of Messengers from Shagnan. — Obtain permission to visit the Ruby Mines. — Religious discussion. — Slave-dealing. — Reflections. — Start for the Ruby Mines. — Execution of Criminals. — Kokcha river. — Khyrabad. — Kosh Darow. — Keen air. — Yowl. — Thieving Donkeys. — A suspicious death. — Robat. — Ze-bak. — Preparations from milk. — Pass of Ish-kashm. — Plains of Ish-kashm. — A way-worn traveller. — Misfortunes of a tribute-levying party. — Fail to reach the Ruby Mines. — Some account of them . . 191

Chapter XX

Fall out with Abdal Ghani. — Make up the quarrel. — A mounted Kirghiz matron. — Her steed. — The Yak, or kash-gow. — Ishtrakh. — Shah Turai of Kundut. — A Kirghiz encampment. — Kila Panj. — Mineral spring. — Issar. — Streams from Mastuch and Pamir. — Vestiges of the ancient Fire-worshippers.— The Wakhan chief. — Difficulties. — A Kirghiz escort. — Some account of that people. — The Kazaks 207

Chapter XXI

Quit Langer Kish. — Enter Durah Sir-i-kol. — Cold bivouac. — March on the frozen river. — A meeting. — Willows. — Snow encampment.— Horns of the wild sheep. — Snug quarters. — A mutiny. — Difficult travelling. — Accident upon the river. — Kirghiz at prayers. — Source of the river Oxus. — Lake Sir-i-kol.— Height of Mountains. — Sources of many streams. — Sounding the Lake. — Effects of a rarefied atmosphere. — Pulsations upon Pamir. — Snow line.— Scarcity of wood. — Himalaya and Hindu Kosh chains. — The Kutchkar, or wild sheep.— The Rass.— Return to Langer Kish . . 226

CONTENTS xvii

Chapter XXII. Page

Wakhan. — Population. — Mohamed Rahim Khan. — Sources of revenue. — Slave dealing. — Its evil tendencies. — Descendants of Alexander the Great. — Physical characteristics of the Wakhanis. — Their dress and appearance. — Vanity of the sex. — Domestic Animals. — Crops and seasons. — Houses. — Stoves. — Fires.— Pine slips. — Matrimonial squalls. — Roshan.— Shagnan. — Darwaz. — Wandering fakir. — A singing entertainment. — Spring. — Changed aspect of the landscape. — The Edd. — Arrival at Kunduz . .243

Chapter XXIII

Start for Hazrat Imam. — Marching. — Hazrat Imam. — Patients. — Dogs. — Hunting of pheasants. — Murder of the Wakhan chief. — Fertility of the banks of the Oxus.— Mortality of Kunduz and Hazrat Imam. — Uzbek females. — Sharwan. — Kila Chap. — Ford the Kokcha. — Site of Barbarrah. — Plain of Turghi-i-Tippa. — Jan Kila. — Ford the Oxus. — Said. — Return towards Hazrat Imam. — Inhospitable reception. — Find shelter in an old shed. — Arrive in Hazrat Imam. — Death of the Mir's son. — Death of the Mir. — Kunduz. — Philanthropy of Moghul emperors. — Robbers. — Khulm — Samarcand. — Export of skins. — Furs. — Mohamedan saint. — Moorcroft. —Kunduz 254