Keel and saddle: a retrospect of forty years of military and naval service

Front matter

Class.

Book

OOPYRIOHT DEPOSIT

I. Page

Introductory Remarks. — I enter the United-States Navy. — Cruises to the Pacific, the "West Indies, and Gulf of Mexico. — Florida. — The Seminole War. — Osceola. — Major Moniac. — The Forty Thieves. — Coast of Cuba. — Piracy. — A Prize. — Treasure-Trove.— A Cyclone and its Effects. — Disappointment . 1 n.

The West Coast of Africa. — A Waif on the High Seas. — The Old Quarter-master's Yarn. — " The Volador." — The Chase. — The Capture. — The Sargasso Sea. — We make Prize of a Slaver. — Her Cargo and Condition, — A Tropical Calm. — A Water Famine. — Are saved by Rum Toddles. — Phlogistic Regimen. — A Revolt. — Pandemonium. — Our Deliverance. — Arrival in Port. — Moral deduced by a Portuguese Trader. — Monrovia. — Swamped on the Bar. — Adieu to Africa in

I pass my Examination. — The Frigate " Constitution."— Cruise to the Mediterranean. — The Baltic. — Cronstadt. — The Czar incognito. — Festivities. — St. Petersburg. — The Imperial Family. — Constantino. — At Sea. — A Russian Deserter appears among our Crew.— The Pole 17

T

Vi CONTENTS.

IV.

PAGE.

Story of the Polish Officer. — Siberia. — The Exiles. — The Chains. — Rations.— Death and Burial of the Exiles. — The Prussian Allies of Russia.— Dreadful Privations. — Escapes and Recaptures. — Converts to the Greek Church. — The Poor Polak. — Lese-Majeste. — The Mines. — Charity in Russia. — The Siberian Exile Dead to the World. — Inhumanity and Bestiality of the Government. — Maxim of the Imperial Government. — Russian Servility. — End of the Story of the Polish Officer 21

V.

Rome. — Gregory XVI.— An Interview with Letitia Ramolino. — Art Treasures. — The Coliseum . — Holy Stones. — A Practical Officer. — Sicily. — Anecdote of Calabrian Brigands. — The English Frigate " Barham." — Englishmen fixing the Price of their own Ransom. — Tarifi'for Rogues and for Honest Men. — The Adriatic and the Ionian Islands. — Athens. — King Otho. — A Patent Yankee Exterminator, the Grandfather of the Mitrailleuse. — Narrow "Eacaj^e from Regicide.— Sauve qui pent

Levantine Society. — Smyrna. — The Casino — The Dardanelles. — Constantinople.— Sultan Mahmoud — His Skill in Archery. — The ^gean Sea. — A Heavy Storm. — Narrow Escape from Shipwreck. — Asia Minor. — Beyrout. — Sidon. — A Visit to and Interview with Lady Hester Stanhope. — A Midnight Seance with her Ladyship. — Her Theological System of Belief. — Sir John Moore. — Her Famous Mares. — Return on Board S5

VII.

St. Jean d' Acre. — Ibrahim Pacha. — His Appearance. — Jafia. — Jerusalem. — The Dead Sea. — The Jordan.- Arab Sentiment. — Alexandria. — Reception by Mahomet Ali, Pacha of Egypt. — Emir Bey. — His Leap from the Walls of the Citadel of Cairo. — Kismet. — Portugal. — Spain . — Journey with Gypsies. — Pedrecillo. — The Gitanos. — The Order of March. — Evora. -Estremoz. — Elvas.- Arrival at Badajos. — Travelling on Horseback. — The Spanish Arrieros 45

VIII.

Merida, the Spanish Rome. — Roman Bridge built by Trajan. — Its Magnificent and Stupendous Remains. — The Lake of Proserpine.- The Ruined Aqueducts.— The Circus Maxlmus.- The Forum.- The Reservoirs,- Ea-

CONTENTS. vii

PAGE.

tremadnra. — Its Porcine Products. — The Hams of Montanches. — On the Road. — The Confessional of St. Peter. — Robbers.— The Diligence gone through by them. — An Irate British Subject. — We have it in our Power to relieve the Distressed. — Medellin and Trujillo, the Birthplaces of Pizarro and Cortes. — Caceres. — Romantic Ride. — Arrival at Alcantara. — The Famous Bridge. — Inscription ........... 53

IX.

The Military Orders of Chivalry . — Peculiarity of the Catholic Church. — The Jesuits. — Our Journey. — Coria. — Montanches — Placencia. — A Lovely Maiden. — Beautiful Country. — Yuste, and the Convent of San Geronimo, the Last Retreat of Charles V. — Farewell to Estremadura .... 59

The Kingdom of Toledo. — Talavera. — Toledo. — Arrival at Madrid. —The Royal Palace. — The Armory. — Pictures. — The Unwholesome Climate of the Capital of Spain. — The Museo. — Society. — Tertulias. — The Puerta del Sol. — I seek a Guide. — An Aficinado. — Journey Northwards. — The Escorial. — A Chateau en Espagne. — La Granja. — The Castle in the Air. — Penalard. — Queen Christina.— -Mufioz. — Blasco's Account of their Amours and Management of the King, Ferdinand VII. — Away with Melancholy.— Segovia. — The Alcazar 66

XI.

Col. Reyes of the Spanish Army. — The Road. — Valladolid. — Simancas. — Adventure of Manuel Blasco. — His Imprisonment and Release. — His Account of the Little Fiasco at the Hotel. — We set forth again. — Aranda del Duero. — Arrive at Penaranda. — The Zuniga Family. — Old Castle. — Blasco grows Sentimental 74

XII.

Story of the Fair Inez. — A Rou6 of the Middle Ages. — His Prodigality and Profligacy. — The Abbot's Counsel. — Don Baltazar joins the Crusade. — He is highly successful in a Military Point of View. — His Piety. — Reform. — Return Home. — Thrift. — Feudal Justice. — Clear Conscience. — Prosperity.—Gypsies.— Their Impiety and Sacrilege. — The Gitana. — Imprison ment illy endured.— A Convert. — The Comadre. — The Old Count smitten. —The Golden Chain 80

xin.

Continuation of the Story of the Fair Inez.— Determination of the Count of Miranda, — July wedded to December. — Description of the Fair Inez. —

Viii CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Her Beauty. — Her Spirits. — Her Innocence. — An Old Man's Darling.— The Green-eyed Monster. — The Pages. — The Seignorial Throne. — Peril of the Page. — His Departure, —Its Consequences. — Sudden Return of the Page Damiano de Zuniga. — End of the Story of the Fair Inez. — Lerma . 86

XIV.

Burgos. — The Cathedral. — The Castle. — Las Huelgas. — Pilgrimage to the Tomb of the Cid. — Miraflores. — The Mausoleum of the Parents of Isabel the Catholic — San Pedro de Cardefia. — Bavieca.— Inscription. — Tombs of the Cid, his Wife Ximena, and their Two Daughters. — The Start from Burgos. — Overtake a Carlist Expedition. — DonaFlorencia. — A Brave Lady. — The Soldiers' of Don Carlos. — Arrival before Logrono. — The Skirmish. — The Attack. — Entrance into the Town . — A Night Combat. — Daylight. — Martin Zurbano. — A Military Execution. — Shocking Episode of the Civil "War. — •Subsequent Fate of Zurbano. — Disappearance of Blasco. — He re-appears. — We again take the Road. — The Pyrenees. — Pamplona. — Journey to Paris. — Exploit of Blasco. — Beranger. — An Interview with the Great Chansonnier. — Return to Spain. — Granada. — Pepe Montes, the Famous Bull-Fighter. — His Adventure in the Plaza de Toros of Granada. — Indignant Retreat thence

XV.

Historical Retrospect. — Causes of the Decline of the Spanish Monarchy. — The Successors of Charles V. — Effect of the Expulsion of the Moors. — Of the Discovery of the Americas. — The Laws of the Mesta. — Incredible Folly of Similar Laws. — Natural Result. — Paralyzation of Industrial Pursuits. — Contempt for every Axiom of Political Economy. — Destruction of the National Prosperity. — Unreasonable Reverence for the Kingly Power. — Degeneration.— Sketch of Ferdinand VII. — Christina. — Revocation of the Salic Law. — Death of Ferdinand. — Revolt of Don Carlos and Breaking-Out of the Civil War. — Espaiiolismo the Curse of Spain 113

XVI.

Visit to Algiers. — Arab Sentiment. — Abd-el-Kader. — French Soldiers. — The Casbah.- Expedition to Blidah. — Skirmish with the Kabyles. — The Zephyrs. — Capt. Eylau. — Arrival on the Field of the Spahis.— Victory. — An Oriental Frenchman. — I meet Manuel Blasco.- Blidah. — End of Poor Blasco in Matrimony 122

XVII.

Return Home. — Voyage of Circumnavigation. — Madeira.- Z.inzibar. — The Imam of Muscat. — The Eunuch Ahmed. — A Valorous Vizier. — A Coup-

CONTENTS. ix

PAGE.

de Main, and Capture of Mombas. — A Forlorn Hope. — Allocution of the Imam. — Success. — The Red Sea. — Muscat. —Bombay. — March of Lord Keane's Army. — Splendid Military Spectacle. — Composition of an Indian Army. — Sumatra. — "War with Malay Pirates. — Sickness among our Crew. Singapore. — China. — We pass through the Bashee Passage into the South Sea. — Arrival at Boston. — In the West Indies again. — I experience a Great SeaBore. — Tragic Fate of "The Clio" 132

XVIII.

i^

Cruise to the Pacific in 1845. — My Ship joins the Squadron of Com. Sloat at Mazatlan. — The Details of this Cruise previously published in " A Tour of Duty in the Pacific." — I here continue this Work as a Sequel to that One. — Taking Possession of the Californias, and hoisting the Flag of the United States.— Her Majesty's Ship '' Cornwallis," Admiral Sir Michael Seymour, is forestalled by our Action. — Com. Stockton. — Gen. Kearny. — Kit Carson.— Expedition to recover the Pueblo de Los Angeles. — Passage of the River of San Gabriel. — Combat of La Mesa. — Cavalry Charges of the Mexicans.— They make no Impression on our Square. — Their Retreat. — Entrance into Loa Angeles. — Capture of San Jos6, Lower California, and Guaymas. — Occupation of Mazatlan. — Return to Boston 143

XIX.

Appointment as Timber- Agent for the United States in California. — Discovery of Gold. — Rush for the Mines. — I sail for the Isthmus. — Arrival at Chagres. — Gold-Seekers. — Chocolate. — Its Uses for the Traveller. — Baron Steinbergen. —Our Embargo at Gorgona. — I take the Isthmus-Fever. — Start for Panama. — Meet with a Good Woman. — Meet a Friend in the Street. — I go to his House and am cared for. — I recover, and embark for San Francisco. —Change wrought in that City. — Singular State of Society. — I meet an Old Shipmate. — His Remarkable Hospitality. — Anecdote of the Maid of Mrs. Gen. Smith . 151

XX.

San Geronimo. — Account of my Rancho. — Impossibility of engaging in any Agricultural Pursuit. — I resolve to visit the Placer. — Arrival at the Dry Diggings. — State of the Labor Market. — Prospecting. — Sales of Cattle. — Commercial Ventures. — Successful Operations. — Return to San Geronimo. — Visit to San Francisco. — Emigrants from Abroad. — Act as Pilot for the Sacramento. — The Peruvian Company of Miners. — Coca, its Use by them. — Pedro Beltran.^ Account of a Coqucro ...... 158

X CONTENTS.

XXI.

PAGE.

Crops at San Geronimo. — Deamess of Provisions. — San Francisco. — Readiness of the Emigrants in adapting Themselves to the Situation. — Their Pursuits. — Weakness and Imperfection of Human Nature. — Interview with a Digger. — His Account of Himself. — The Classics in the Diggings. — His Advice to me. — Improvements at my Place. — A " Herradura." — Indian Forays on our Horses. — Organization of an Expedition for their Suppression among my Neighbors . 163 xxn.

Rendezvous of Rancheros at Baulinas. — Preparations. — The Start. — Beautiful Country. — Indians. — The Q-entile Village. — Trading. — Don Pepe Armenteros. — Sudden Appearance of Don Juan Briones. — Lamentations of Don Rafael Garcia — The Gallant "Pinto." — We start on the Trail.— A Night March. — Arrival at the Village of the Horse-Thieves. — Lovely and Peaceful Scene. — Breaking of the Dawn. — Our Attack and Surprise of the Gentiles. — We are Victorious. — Our Magnanimity. — No Material Guarantee of Peace being Available, we seize the Personal One. — Return Home and Disposition of the Prisoners. —I resign my Commission as Lieutenant in the Navy 171

xxm.

Alexander McGregor. — A Remarkable Character. — Description of his Appearance. — His Mental Accomplishments. — His Failings. — A Ship Ashore. — Flotsam and Jetsam. — A Rich Spoil cast up by the Sea. — Assembling of the Rancheros at the Estero de Los Tamales. — The Rancho of Don Rafael Garcia. — Rural Festivities. — The Captain of the Lost Bark. — End of the Great Fandango. — Submarine Exploit . 180

XXIV.

The Golondrina. — Preparations for a Voyage. — My Crew. — A Cosmopolitan Company. — Sail for the Lower Coast. — The Gulf of California. — Indian Tribes inhabiting the Coast. — The Hiaquis. — The Guelphs and Ghibellinea of Sonora. — Their Contentions. — A Brig Ashore. — We anchor near Her. — Action with the Indians. — Rescue of the Passengers and Crew. — The Custom-House Peculiarities in Mexico. — The Araucel. — Bribery and Corruption.—Mazatlan. —San Bias.- Smuggling Specie. — Twenty Years of Presidio.—The Captain of the Port.— A Strict Search. — The Captain leaves us. — McGregor reveals his Ingenious Concealment of the Gold. — We are discovered. — We dispose of the Inspector, and sail for the Offing. — Becalmed.— The Pursuit. — Clear Ship for Action. — British Interference. — Are threatened with Boarding.- Resistance.— We Bink one of the Enemy's Launches.— The Rest sheer off . 188

CONTENTS, xi

XXV.

PAGE.

Arrival at Mansanilla. — Agree with the Resguardo on Favorable Terms to admit Cargo. — Visit to the Volcano of Colima. — Zapilon. — The Great Barranca.— The Volcanic Zone of this Section of North America. — Jorullo. — Tuxtla. — Volcanic Sympathy of Action. — Grand and Imposing Spectacle of an Eruption. — Return to San Bias. — Sale of "The Golondrina." — We land our Cargo. — Tepic. — Leaving Tepic for the Great Fair. — Guadalajara.— Highwaymen. — The Fair of San Juan de los Lagos. — The Meson. — Family of the Innkeeper. — Pancho. — A Foundling Castaway. — The Pintos. — La Chapita, the Maid of the Inn. — The Close of the Great Fair. —Trip Northward. — Arrival at Chihuahua. .,,,... 198

XXVI.

The Bolsom de Mapimi. — Silver Mines. — Santa Eulalia. — Working of the Mines. — Reasons why Capital is not employed. — Adventure at a Hacienda. — An Indian War-Party. — Army of Apaches. — Narrow Escape. — Traces of the War-Party. — I bid Adieu to my Friend McGregor. — His subsequent Unhappy Fate. — Durango. — The Indians of the Sierra. — Magic and the Black Art.— A Friend relates a Tale of Sorcery

XXVII.

Story of Bartola. — Witchcraft. — Don Alvaro Lopez. — A Model Mexican General.— Outrage upon an Indian Family. — Death of the Chief. — Condition of his Daughter. — My Friend is called to attend Lopez in Sickness. — Hia Malady. — Remorse. — Scene at the Hovel of Bartola. — Incantation. — The Odic Force. — Magnetic Influences . — Effects of a Determined Will. — A Duel klaMort. — Double Death, and Bartola's Revenge 213

XXVIII.

Return to San Juan.— Continnation of the Story of the Maid of the Inn. — The Wedding. — The Nuptial Feast. — Its Sudden Termination. — TheSomnambula. — Disappearance of Pancho, — Melancholy Catastrophe. — The Cemetery.— Departure from San Juan de los Lagos. — The City of Mexico. — President Arista. — The American Minister. — I accept Service in the Mexican Army. — My Rank and Duties.— Journey to Guanajuato. — Father Ipolito. — My Appointment with Him 220

XXIX.

The Vial of Lethe.— Insomnolence.— The Dutch Captain. — The Opiate.— Recollections. — Curiosity of Pancho. — Explanation. — Dario. — A Weird xii CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Convert. — An Unseen "Witness —Terrible Scene in the Cemetery of San Juan. — Indian Superstition. — Father Ipolito explains away the Mystery. — Denofiment of the Story of the Maid of the Inn 228

XXX.

Expedition to Morelia. — The March. — The Diana. — Quajimalpa. — Toluca. — Hacienda de la Gabia. — A Magnificent Property. ^ — Taximaroa. — Querendaro. — Our Cavalry engaged. — Ambush in the Defile of Los Trojis de Angangueo. — A Novel Light- Artillery Manoeuvre. — The Column saved by Prompt Action of the Artillery. — Mexican Horses and Riders. — Patzcuaro.

— Success of the Expedition. — Return to the Capital. — Place Hunters. — The Hotel de Iturbide. — A Street Acquaintance. — A Promenade. — Agreeable Impressions. — An Old Schoolmate. — A Rival. — Mutual Confidences. — The Alameda. — Discontent of Valdes. — He moralizes. — The Old Cavalier.

XXXI.

The Chase after the Hat. — Change in the Demeanor of Valdes. — A Free Young Lady. — A Siren. — A Recognition. — A Rebuff. — Counter Recognition.— Courtesans. — Dreams. — Morning Salutations.— Visit to the Minister of the Interior. — Unexpected Rencontre. — His Excellency is cool towards Antonio • 240

XXXII.

A Critical Situation. — Polite Dismissal. — Valdes. — Rapid Exit . — Reflections in the Street. —Philosophic Determination. — A Pleasant Dinner. — Monologue upon "Wine. — Generosity. — The Mistaken Door. — Post Bacchum Venus. — Finding an Ally. — Note from the Minister. — The Breakfast. — Moral, and End of the Story of Don Antonio Palacios 246

XXXIII.

leave the Mexican Army. — Preparations to return to the United States. — Leave the City by Diligence.— My Travelling Companions.- Perote.— Robbers. — A Shot Right and Left with Both Barrels. — Pusillanimity.- Arrival at Vera Cruz, and, after, .at New Orleans. — Proceed up the Mississippi. — Lieut. Thomas J. Jackson , United-States Array.— Astrology. — Jackeon's Singular Opinions. — Strange Prediction. — His Enthusiastic Character 252

CONTENTS. xiii

XXXIV.

PAGE.

Italy. — StraebTirg,— The Russian Colonel. — The Old French Major's Story. — Military Discipline.^ The Army of the Rhine of 1815. — Gen. Rapp. — A Military Revolt. — Causes of the Mutiny. — Dalhousie. — The Enemy still held in Check. — Discipline preserved in an Army in Revolt. — Success of the Mutineers. — Their Return to Obedience. — End of the Revolt —A Visit to the Cantini^re of the Fourth of the Line, the Doyenne of the French Cantini^res 258

XXXV.

Paris. —Major Philip Kearny. — His Opinions on the Approaching War of the Rebellion. — Adieux and Assurances. — Breaking-Out of Hostilities. — Sumter. — Grreat Movement among the People of the North . — Imbecility of the Administration. — Bull Run. — Worthlessness of the Militia. — The People outrun the Government. — I again enter the Service. — Am appointed Colonel of the Seventh New- Jersey Infantry. — Recruits in Plenty. — Arrival in Washington. — Condition of the Army. — Gen. McClellan. — Organization.— McClellan's Labors. — His Success . . . . , . . 269

PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

The Artillbrt-Ofeicer's Story # . . 293

Monte; or, The Robbers 355

KEEL AND SADDLE.

nj'^HE simple record of tlie career of almost any person, -L however humble, furnishes some useful lessons, from which may be derived either guidance or warning ; and the story of an active life full of vicissitudes and strange experiences, lacking though it may the graces of rhetoric and the riches of scholarship, can hardly fail to point some profitable moral to the few, while it may possibly entertain the many.

These are the considerations which have led me to write the following pages at a time of life when my career may be regarded as closed, and leisure has been found to condense the diaries and memoranda I have always been in the habit of keeping.

Following the bent of an early predilection for foreign travel, I entered the United-States navy at the age of fourteen years, as a midshipman ; and, after a short term spent at the Naval School at the New- York Navy Yard, I sailed on my first cruise to the Pacific Ocean on board the frigate " Guerriere," bearing the pennant of Com. Charles C. B. Thompson, in the summer of the year 1828.

For three years I served in the Pacific squadron, and was duly initiated into the tough discipline then in vogue in our navy, the rigorous practice of which had originated during the war of 1812.

Upon my return I enjoyed but a short respite, and in a few months found myself on board a corvette on the West-India station ; and, having been transferred to the schooner " Flirt " and other vessels, was finally attached to what Avas called the " mosquito fleet,'^ — a flotilla of small vessels and boats cooperating with the army in Florida.

CriTising in the Everglades in a barge, exposed to the weather for weeks, I found decidedly rough : but, though the Seminole War was in progress, no encounters with the enemy occurred to mitigate the tedium of my situation ; for excepting a few prisoners I saw at Tampa, including the celebrated Osceola, I never beheld an Indian.

After vain efforts to " surprise " our wily foe, the cruise at last ended, having been signalized by the loss of one of our men from fever induced by mosquito-bites, and the disabling of several others from the same cause; and with the warHke trophies of one small squaw captured at a deserted camp, and a keg of powder, we returned to St. Augustine.

Here we found Gen. Jesup's army about to march to the Indian country ; and the quaint little Spanish town was alive with excitement over the military preparations.

As I stood one morning admiring a fine regiment of Creek Indians, who were being mustered into the service of the United States, I was suddenly seized by the shoulders from behind, and saluted with the characteristic ejaculation, — " Ugh ! " Turning instantly, I found myself in the embrace of a tall Indian, naked except for his breech-cloth and redcloth leggings, his head shaved clean save the chivalrous sc;ilp-lock; while the thick war-paint prevented me from recognizing his dusky visage. The warrior proved to be Moniac, a young Creek chief, wlio had been educated at the Military- Academy at West Point, with whom I had been intimately acquainted in New York, and who was now a major of the Creek regiment. Although he had been accustomed for four years to the drill and discipline of West Point, had graduated with honor at that institution, had participated in the pleasures, and perhaps partaken of some of the pleasant vices, of civilization, Moniac, upon returning to his tribe, had declined accepting a commission tendered him as an officer of the army, and had chosen to resume all the apparent hardships and perils of savage life.

Perhaps he was right : but I never knew ; for a few weeks afterwards, while gallantly leading his battalion, he was killed by his relatives (the Seminoles are descended from the Creeks) at the battle of Okeechobee.

Leaving St. Augustine for Tampa and Pensacola, I was ordered to Key West from the latter place, to take command of a large felucca-rigged boat, pulling forty oars, and armed with a long twelve-pounder ; and received instructions to cruise in the Old Bahama Channel, and endeavor to capture a noted pirate named Benavides. Piracy was at that time a regularlyorganized business in the West Indies ; the capital being supplied by persons in Cuba and the United States, and the cutthroats by the " faithful isle." It was very difficult to secure the trial and conviction of the corsairs in Havana, however evident their guilt ; for the Spanish authorities were notoriously interested in the profits of their nefarious calling. It is well known, that, not long before the time I am writing of. Com. David Porter was tried by a court-martial for landing at Foxardo to capture some of these gentlemanly marauders, — a rebuke which led to his leaving the profession of which he was so distinguished an ornament.

For a week or two we saw nothing on our new cruisinggiound except a few small merchant-vessels, and heard of no pirates, until one evening a felucca appeared, crossing from Cayo Romano to Cuba, We immediately gave chase, but lost sight of her at nightfall. At early daylight she was again seen under the land of Cuba, but suddenly disappeared up one of those estuaries which inlace the low ground of the coast. Making our way into the one we supposed she had entered, we pursued our unseen but hoped-for prize up its sinuous course, the view being limited by the banks of the estuary, which were covered by a mangrove thicket, growing down into the water, as is the habit of this plant. I landed, however, at the entrance for a few moments, in order to put on shore a couple of men provided with means to signal to us if necessary.

After rowing in this way for about ten or fifteen miles, we came suddenly, at a turn of the estuary, upon a camp, and a bark-rigged vessel lying at a rude pier. Here we landed, with the usual precautions against surprise, and found the ship to be the French bark " Amedee " of Bordeaux, evidently not long since captured by pirates. Her cargo had been nearly all removed from the vessel, and probably taken in lighters to Havana or Matanzas ; but the evidences of a hurried "breaking bulk" were everywhere to be seen. The sails of the bark had been burned (for we found the incombustible parts), the rudder unshipped, and both anchors let go ; so that it would have been impossible to remove her from the place. Many knick-knacks, which apparently did not suit the taste of the pirates, lay about, the emharcadero being strewn with various " articles de Paris." The cabin furnished evidence that it had been tenanted by passengers of both sexes ; and it was fearful to think of what had probably been their fate, although we met with no positive proofs that murder had been done.

In the afternoon I wished to return to the sea, but found that some of my men had straggled away into the country :

so, leaving the galley in charge of a petty officer, I started with a small party to hunt them up, ascending the hills which rose above the landing-place to a considerable height. Our search was vain, however : we saw no traces of the stragglers ; and, after a walk of about two miles along the crest, we returned towards the pirates' camp down a ravine, in the hollow of which ran a brawling rivulet.

The sides of the ravine were precipitous, and covered with huge bowlders, while the dense and almost impenetrable verdure of the tropics clothed its surface. I tried to cover as much ground as possible with my men, in order to explore the country as thoroughly as we could ; for I feared my lost ones had stupefied themselves with liquor obtained from the French bark. Suddenly one of my scouts high up the bank of the ravine shouted to us to ascend ; and, thinking he had tidings of the runaways, we scrambled up to his elevated position. I found him at the entrance of a hole, or cave, which was partially concealed by a bowlder of great size, the ground around it bearing the marks of footprints, with staves and iron spikes scattered about. Bringing my little band together, I delegated a young and agile foretopman to enter the hole first ; which he did, shoving his carbine before him as he went in, and disappeared from our sight into the bowels of the earth. We prepared to follow : but the first who entered met the second one returning ; and, as neither could pass the other in the narrow entrance, we hauled the last man out by the legs. The foretopman reported that he had passed into a large chamber inside ; but that, owing to the darkness, he could say nothing as to its size or contents.

Determined to prosecute the search, I improvised tapers made of the torn leaves of a book I had in my pocket ; and, thus equipped, we crawled in. At about twenty paces from the entrance we found ourselves in a circular chamber, evidently an excavation, some fifteen feet in diameter. Our 1* means of illumination being scanty, we had not time to examine the contents of some kegs and barrels, which, together with some old rusty muskets and cutlasses, and other objects pertaining to seafaring men, composed the contents of the room.

As we were about to withdraw, one old tar, determined not to go without carrying away some memento of the place, roUed out a keg before him, thinking, doubtless, it contained a supply of liquor; but which, being upset, gave forth an ominous rattling sound, that indicated something more substantial. We rolled the keg down to the camp, which I desired to reach before the approaching sunset ; after which, in the tropics, there is no twilight. I found, upon my arrival, that our stragglers had returned, my fears having been unfounded as to their drinking ; for the pirates had evidently consumed, or effectually concealed, all liquors.

Sentinels having been placed around the camp, we went to sleep after supper, pleased with visions of untold wealth to be secured in the morning at the cave, which we imagined must contain the fabulous treasures of Aladdin ; for the keg we had brought with us was filled with newly-minted Spanish dollars. Shortly after midnight my dreams were interrupted by a sentinel, who reported that a fire was burning brightly at the entrance to the estuary. As this was the signal agreed upon in case our presence was required, I had no alternative but to start at once ; and we manned our rowgalley, and sped down the creek as fast as forty pairs of vigorous arms could propel us. The day was breaking as we arrived at our destination ready and eager for action ; for we thought it probable that the pirates were returning to their haunt, which was as secure a jpuerto escondido for those buccaneers— '^friends to the sea, and enemies to all who sail on it " — as could be found in Cuba.