The Ionian Islands in the year 1863

Front matter

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Preface

When it became probable that the islands forming the Septinsular Republic of Ionia after having remained imder the protection of the British Cro^vn since the Peace of 1815, were likely soon to become a part of Greece, I felt that it would be interesting, m every way, to visit them before so great a change should take place. The presence of my fellow-countrymen could not fail to render the task of investigation comparatively easy. I should see a country preparing for a peaceful revolution. I should be able to judge in some measure what England had done, how far she had fulfilled the responsible office she had undertaken, and what was the probability of her plans being carried out. I should be able at a turnmg pouit in their history to observe and study

IV PREFACE.

the physical geography and geology of the islands and the customs of the people; and, although a mere looker on, I might perhaps see as from "svithout, and judge more fairly than those mingled in the strife how far there was reason for the unpopularity of British government in the Nationtd Assembly that had been so long notorious.

The results of my \'isit will be found in the following pages. They represent the islands and people as they are, and as I saw them, and I hope they will reflect a part of that satisfaction and pleasure I experienced whilst making my observations.

I owe the warmest acknowledgments to all my numerous and kind friends in all the islands. From the Lord High Commissioner, the Residents, the Secretary to the Government, and the other officers of State, through every rank to the poorest boatman, mule driver, policeman, and servant, both from my fellow-countrymen and from natives of the islands, I have everywhere met with the most friendly hospitality, and the most ready attention to all my wants.

Hospitality is, indeed, now no less than in classical tunes a sacred duty in these islands, and it is a duty most conscientiously performed. Where all have cxhil)itcd sucli kindness, I dare not })articu-

PREFACE. V

larize; but I confess I have been as frequently touched at the evident pain -with which the refusal to accept some act of simple kindness has been received as "vvith the expression of satisfaction when some small service has been rendered.

That a people with so many good qualities as these islanders, should possess at the same time a share of the weaknesses and vices so common on the shores of the Levant, is not sui'prismg. But their good qualities exist, and must not be forgotten.

Xo one who has visited the Ionian Islands can, I think, doubt that a change fi'om the present mode of government to that which will succeed it under a Greek king must involve a period of great trial. The enthusiasm with which union of Greece will be welcomed must soon cool do^vn under the influence of reality, and a very difficult task will then be commenced, that, namely, of adapting the old method under which the people have gro^vn up — always in leading-strings — to any new method consistent with the management of a kingdom under a constitutional govermnent.

That the ultimate result may be satisfactory, that England may see the kingdom of Greece flourish and become great under the Prmce who has now

VI PREFACE.

been selected to guide her destinies, and that the East may once more possess a powerful, independent, and well-governed Christian kingdom, would be a result worthy of the nineteenth century, remarkable already for the revival and restoration of Italy.

And let not an apparent failure or early troubles discourage those who wish well to Greece. The way to freedom is not smooth and flowery. Freedom loves to dwell on rocky shores and in almost inaccessible haunts; but Greece has already been her home, and she does not easily forget the spots once made sacred by her presence.

Impinqton Hall,

Cambridge, August, 1863.

Contents

CORFU.

CHAPTER I. Pago

Trieste to Corfu — The island from the sea — Corfu and the Corfiots — The modern tovrn, the churches, and the university — Public buildings, occupations, manufactures, and markets — The suburbs — Public amusements — The citadel — Fortifications of the town — Vido — The Lazaretto 3

Chapter II

Ancient Corcyra and modern Corfu — Lake Calichiopiilo and the Hyllaic Harbom* — The gardens of Alcinous and the spring of Cressida — Divisions of the island of Corfu — The ohve groves and the cypress — Habits and growth of the olive — Absence of cultivation — Production of oil — The women and children of Corfu — Houses and habitations — Rarity of streams — The River Potamos — The villages of the plain — Alepu and CurcmnelU — The houses of the villagers and small proprietors— Country houses of the gentry — Govino. 35

Chapter III

Excursion to Pelleka — The road, the village, and the view — Chapels on the hill tops — Val di Roppa — Its appearance and imhealthy state — Paleocastrizza — Beautiful clifi" scenery of this part of the island — Monastery and convent — The monks and nuns — Chapel of the convent— Pantaleone and the coimtry beyond — Sulphur deposits at Spagus — Character of the country people — Ipso and its gypsum — Spartilla — San Salvador — Ascent fi-om Glypho — Signes . . .69

Vlll CONTENTS.

t CHAPTER IV.

Page

Excursion to Benizze — Gasturi and Stavro— Springs at Benizze — Road to the Santi Dcca — Ascent of the mountain — Views from the top — Pass of Garuna— Mountain of San Mathias — Lake of Corissio — Mcditerranoan tides — Escape of the rain-water and formation of swamps — Malaria and ague fevers — Lefkimo — Paxo and Antipaxo . 9G

SANTA MAURA.

Chapter V

Santa Maura — The island and its early history — Remarkable position with regard to the mainland of Greece — Later history — The chief town — Its position and origin — The Lagoon — Approach to the island — Description of the town — Its bouses and suburbs — The fort — Cyclopean remains and antiquities — Preparations for the Prince's wedding day — The levee — The performance at the church — The ball — Costumes— The supper — Behaviour of the guests — Illuminations — Influence of the Resident . 125

Chapter VI

The outskirts of the town — The ancient city of Leucas — The honey bee and the beehives among the ruins — Position of the ancient Leucas — Antiquities of the island — Cultivation of the olive — Effect of earthquake action — The roads to Moimt Scarus — Tlie kettlo-shaiwd valleys — Scarus — Its monastery and ilex forest — The hospitaUty of the monks — The boidder, the chapel, the mysterious well, and the goat shed — The shady walks near the town — The villages in tlio outskirts — Account of Phrene or Frini — The beds of the streams near the hills after rain — The niins in the olive groves and their modern uses — The Turkish well and the cafes of the groves — Mechanical result of the growth of the olive in imdermining old wslls — Meganisi and other islands 16G

CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VII

Page Visit to the interior of the island — Family arrangements — Communism and patriarchal system among the people — Road to the mountauis — Mountain villages — Englnvi and its primate— Costumes of the Tillages and towns of Santa Maura — Rise of the mountain towards Stavrota — Descent to Attane — House of the chief person of the district— Arrangements of the interior — Briganda formerly in the island — Hospitality of the people — Earthquake and storm — Bituminous shale near Attane — Geology of Santa Maura — Stavrota — Sappho's Leap — Descent to Basilike ........ 198

ITHACA.

Chapter VIII

Ithaca — Romance and poetry of the island — Ithaca, the country of Ulysses — Passage to the island from Basilike — Coast of Santa Maura and Ithaca — Arrival at Erikis Bay — Singular mineral springs — The school of Homer — Condition of this ruin — Its real nature and meaTiing— View from the ruins — Peculiarities of structure — Exoi — Visit there and reception — Modern school contrasted with the ancient — Sail to Bathi — Gulf of Molo — The town — Bathi from a distance — Dexia — The Resident at Ithaca — Population of the island — Town of Bathi — Resources of the island — Cultivation in Ithaca — Fisheries — Sponges — Occupations of the people — Boat building — Prospects for the future 231

Chapter IX

Excursions from Bathi — Cave of Dexia — Ancient and modem grottoes of the Naiads — The Prince's pony — Visit to Corax and the fountain of Arethusa — The cliff at Arethiisa's Fountain — Water and ferns overhanging the source — Cathara and the ancient Neritos — View from the mountain top — Hospitality of the Superior at Cathara — Lenten repast provided for the traveller — Aitos, or the Eagle's cliff — Castle of Ulysses — Great extent of the ruins — Style of architecture — The Acropolis — View from Aitos — Laertes' farm — Homer's poetical use of Ithaca and its buildings defended — Calamos.. Petala and the Echinades 258

CONTENTS.

CEPHALONIA.

Chapter X

Page Cephalonia — Its position and the origin of its name — Communication with Ithaca — Gulf of Samos — The old city of Samoa — Cyclopean walls — Roman remains and Roman conquest of Samos — Construction of the walls — Polygonal and Hellenic styles — Gate and towers — The Acropolis — Accommodation at the modem town — Antiquities found near the sea — Vases — Journey to Argostoli — Sir C. Napier and the roads — The town of Argostoli — Hotel — Wine manufacture . . 293

CHAPTER XL

Mills at Argostoli driven by sea water running into the earth — Explanation of the phenomenon — Tide at Argostoli — Ancient city of Cranea — Wall-masonry — Plan of walls and gates — State of preservation of the walls — Effect of vegetation in wearing Umestone rock — Antiquities of Cranea — Mount Enos — Ascent to the Black Mountains — San Gerosimo and its convent — Miracles performed there — Pine forests on the mountains^Legendary lore — The dragon and the brothers Lucchcsi — Murders on the mountains — The goats, and the mischief they do to the young trees — The vale of Rakli — Circular lakes — Return to Argostoli 322

Chapter XII

Manufactures of Cephalonia — Wine — Culture of the grape and currant vine — Aloe — Aloe-fibre lace — Basket-work — Carpet-weaving — Boat-building—Lixuri — The town — The market — The mole — Moving rock- Gypsum near Lixuri — Its grotesque appearance — Sulphur springs — Climat« of Cephalonia — Sanitary condition — Earthquakes — Curious circular lake — Ancient Pronos — Sudden rising of the sea — Scala and the ruins there — Cultivation of the low lands — Maize crop — Present state of the country population — Disturbances of 1848 — Local politics 351

CONTENTS. XI

ZANTE.

Chapter XIII

Pajc Zante — Distance irom Cephalonia — Means of communication — Steamers

and passengers — The Grreeks on board — A dinner — Dress of the tra- .

veiling Greeks — Appearance of the island from the sea — Grease wells

— Bay of Zante — The city — The churches, and their rich decorations

— The saints — The belfry — Public buildings and hotels — Badness of

the accommodation — Manufactures of the island — HiU behind the

town — Country houses — View from the castle wall — Swamps towards

Chieri Bay — Character of the Zantiots — Antiquities of the island . 381

CHAPTEE XIY.

The Bay of Chieri and the pitch wells — Position of the wells — Lithaki — A beautiful ravine — Goat island — The pitch fountains — Origin of the pitch— Earthquakes in Zante — The earthquake of 1840 — CUmate of Zante — Cultivation of the currant vine — Preparation of the fruit — The ohve in Zante — Hospitality of the Zantiots — Country farm-houses— Venetian pictures — Langadakia — View of Zante from the west — A curious slate — Antiquities — Cerigo and Cerigotto . . 407

Chapter XV

Journey from Zante — West coast of Cephalonia and Santa Maura — Corfu to Ancona — Approach to Ancona — Landing — Custom-house proceedings— The city — Journey to Bologna — Comparison between the Ionian Greeks and the ItaUans — Education in the Ionian Islands — Origin of the people — National character — Work of England — National faults of the people — Result of annexation considered — Population of Corfu — Great wealth introduced by England — Landed property and laws of descent — Probable result of the sudden removal of protection — Value of the islands to England 438

Chapter XVI

The islands as a group — Modern history — Inhabitants — First constitution — Constitution of 1848 — Power of the Lord High Commissioner — Conflicting powers — Residents in the various islands — Police system — Passport system —Taxation and revenue — Imports and exports — Value of money — Usury — Banking— Population — Conclusion . . 460

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of a Greek Priest, with his family .... ^roulitpiece

Map of Corfu /o face page 122

Map of Santa Maura and Zante 22H

Ground Plan of the School of Homer. Ithaca 2.31)

l'"levation of North Wall of the School of Homer. Ithaca . . . 241

Elevation of South Wall of the School of Homer. Ithaca . . . 243

Section of the Cliff at Arethusa's Fountain. Ithaca .... 2tiS

Elevation of Part of the Great Wall of Samos. Cephalonia . . 302

Earthenware Vase from Samos. Cephalonia 311

Ground Plan — Argostoli Mills. Cephalonia ..... 325

Wall of Polygonal Masonry at Cranea. Cephalonia .... 330

Ground Plan of part of the Walls of Cranea. Cephalonia . . 331

Cup of Coarse Pottery from Cranea. Cephalonia .... 337

A curious Earthen Vessel from Cranea. Cephalonia . . . 353

Map of Cephalonia and Ithaca to face page 378

Sketch Map of the principal Ionian Islands .... to face the end

CORFU.

" I will lead Thy steps toward my royal father's house Where all Phaeacia's nobles thou shalt see. There, on the summit of the hiU, is built Our city, with proud bidwarks fenced around, And laved on both sides by its pleasant port Of narrow entrance, where our gallant barks Line all the road, each station' d in her place. And where, adjoining close the splendid fane Of Neptune, stands the forum with huge stones From quarries tliithcr drawn, constructed strong."

Odyss. vi., 308 et seq.

Chapter I. Trieste To Corfu The Island From The Sea Corfu And

THE CORFIOTS THE MODERN TOWN^ THE CHURCHES, AND

THE UNIVERSITY PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ OCCUPATIONS, MANU- FACTURES, AND MARKETS THE SUBURBS PUBLIC AMUSE- MENTS THE CITADEL FORTIFICATIONS OF THE TOWN

VIDO THE LAZZARETTO.

A JOURNEY from London to the Ionian Islands, at the present tune, is too easy and matter-of-course an event to require much description. For the benefit of those who may not be accustomed to trips of this kmd, or who are interested m the route, I may mention that, by traveUing day and night, Vienna is reached by several Hues of railway in about three days from London, and that Trieste is about twenty-two hours distant from Vienna by ordinary, and fifteen hours by express trains. As the latter, in winter, run only twice a week, and start at a quarter to seven o'clock in the morning, special arrangement must be made to take advantage of them.* The travelluig from Viemia is comfortable; but the contrast is great between the easy-gomg style here considered sufficient and the rapid movements to which Enghsh people are accustomed. Except the occasional express, there are only two trains daily each way. Near Vienna, stoppages occur about every five minutes. Aftenvards, the intervals are longer, as the country is more thinly inhabited ; but wherever they take place, there is time enough allowed for anything that may be needed ; and wherever there is a buffet^ it may safely be taken advantage of. To those who have not previously travelled over the road, in the old time, by sclmell-post, the railroad between Vienna and Trieste is not Avithout mterest, but nothing is seen of the toAviis. Occasional views of the Eastern Alps, — not, of course, of the highest tops of that mighty chain, but peaks for mtuiy months snowcapped— are fine, andbresik themonotony of the sceneiy. A large part of the road near Trieste is over singular limestone plains, amongst which almost the only objects of interest seen by tourists are the vast caverns near Adelsberg. To the geologist, the scene is especially interesting, especially if he has not before become familiar with great limestone ])lateaux elsewhere. The karst^ as the hmestone plateau is here called, resembles some parts of the south of Spain; and the singular, cold, bluish grey colour of the lunestone — the occa-

* At present, Monday and Thursday are tlio days in Winter, and Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in SumnuT.

THE KARST. 5

sional softer rocks — the curious rounded forms, and the cracked appearance of the mass — the deep, narrow gorges, always dry, because the water that fills on them passes rapidly out of sight — these are features which deserve more than passing notice, and suggest important lessons.

Among the peculiarities of this great flat, barren, lofty tract of limestone, the fierce north wuid that rushes over it is by no means one of the smallest, or the least disagreeable. Travelling southwards from Viemia, it is only when the tram is stoppmg, or is exposed sideways by a turn of the road, that the full force is appreciated. The wind then rushes into the carriage, through all the crevices, with such force as to make one doubt whether the "windows can be closed. It roars and blusters so loud that one can scarcely hear oneself speak ; and its dry piercing nature is very soon appreciated through the thickest wraps. But when it is necessary to meet this terrible tempest, the traveller is to be pitied indeed. He must be well provided with furs, and must use them all to keep life and soul together; and there seems some reason to fear that the train must certamly be checked, if not stopped, should the wind continue. Still, this fearful blast steadily and incessantly rushes on, for it is the cold dry air of the north making its way as best it can to the south to fill up the vacuum formed in the Mediterranean when the warm rays of the sun expand the au', and tend to lift it to the upper regions of the atmosphere. The great storm- wind will never cease to blow across this low pass of the Eastern Alps so long as Europe and Asia retain their present form and character, and so long as the countries south of the Alps are warmer and more pleasant than those to the north.

Trieste is a bright, lively, bustluig town, with excellent hotels, and with a fair amount of shipping in the offing and port. It is said to be now decreasing in importance, though, for many years, it has been rapidly increasing. Ancona, the port of the newly-bom kingdom of Italy, is beginning to claim its share of Adriatic traffic ; and being already connected by railway with the principal Italian cities, it vnW probably increase ■Nvith greater rapidity, and at the expense of Trieste. The continuation of the Italian railway from Ancona to Otranto Avill also affect Trieste veiy seriously; and as soon as the tunnel under the Mont Cenis is completed, and quick trains are organised on the chief Italian railroads, there is no reason why the Indian mail and the great traffic of the East should not find its way at a much quicker rate than at present to the southern ports of Italy mthin a very short distance of Alexandria.

The streets of Trieste are, for the most part, narrow, and the houses rather lofty. The quay is wide and fine. All the streets are paved witli large fiat stones, well adapted to the peculiar, low, small-wheeled ox-carts, which are here chiefly used for heavy traffic. Horses are not very much used for draught in Trieste, and, indeed, the extreme care Avith which it is necessary to clothe them in winter makes it evident that the sharp winds from tlie kni'st ni'c not at all less felt ])y the ])rutes

MARKET OF TRIESTE. 7

than by the human race. It would be inconvenient in other ways to replace the ox by the horse, for even the narrowest of the many narrow streets and lanes are generally passable by these ox-carts; and although, occasionally, there is a dead lock, the convenience is great, for the narrowness of the streets ensures shade in summer.

The lower classes of the mhabitants of Trieste are picturesque, and their occupations are not less so. Most of the wares sold are exposed in the open air; and one passes pleasantly from yellow, picturesque crockery, of ancient form and the most prmiitive style of ornament, to shawls and calicoes that speak of Paisley and Manchester ; and so again by curious old Venetian and mediaeval goldsmith's work, back to the wooden tools and implements where style is, perhaps, the oldest of all. Everybody screaming, and everybody, apparently, very happy, though doing very httle, — the contrast to an Enghsh seaport town, even at its busiest tune, is exceedmgly striking. The common food, too, is pecuhar. A variety of beans, of colours and sizes almost incredible, is everywhere exposed, and seems the first necessary of existence ; grain, of many sorts, dried herrings and oranges, apples and lemons, figs, dates, olives and potatoes, are all huddled together in the same baskets ; close by are combs, knives, buttons, and small haberdashery, then a little very coarse glass, then more handkerchiefs and shawls, and so on in every narrow street and open square throughout the lower part of the town. A little above are detached houses and \dllas, some very fine, and many of them picturesquely placed, but not pleasant to reach in the terrible wind that meets one at every turn. Hot sun and biting wind do their work m Trieste. I noticed in the "Diavoletto," a local journal of very exceptional name, but well conducted, a sanitary report of the past week. Among the various diseases named as the cause of death, a marked preponderance were those involving, or resulting from, disorders of the respiratoiy organs. Consumption, bronchial attacks, and pleurisy, often recurred. In the streets, I was struck with the appearance of a young girl, who had manufactured for herself an unperfect respu*ator by a little bit of rag, not too clean, which she kept hanging out of her mouth. It is to be hoped that it was more efficacious than it was ornamental, but it told a tale. I doubt whether Trieste can be healthy, for many reasons ; but, at any rate, it is certain that the causes of consumption and pulmonary disorder which are so strongly mdicated there, exist, though in a smaller degree, throughout the north of Ital}^, and extend to Tuscany. They are, also, veiy decidedly present in the north of Spain. It is true that we all must die of some disease, and, perhaps, this is better than t}qihus and malaria fever, common m many wanner climates on the sliores of the Mediterranean. It is to be hoped that the thin dry an* and constant north wind at Trieste preserve it from malaria; and, at any rate, there should be no difficulty about the drainage of the suburbs, for they slope so steeply that nothing but a free course to the sea can be needed.

One sees, in Trieste, a considerable admixture of

VIEW or TRIESTE. 9

costumes and physiognomy, although hardly more than might be expected from its position, — with Italy on one side, the Sclave population of Istria and Dahnatia on the other, Germany to the north, and Greece and Turkey not far oiF. There is much trade between Trieste and Greece, extendmg to Constantinople and Alexandria, the steamers touching at all the prmcipal ports of the Levant.

There is httle tide in the Adriatic, and thus it is easy to construct a length of quay, mth occasional moles and jetties, to which steamers of all sizes can, at all times, be moored. Small boats are thus not much needed. It is worth while, however, to put off to some distance from the town, in order to see the glorious panorama there presented. Immediately behind the houses are the villas, on the steep hill-side; above them, the hills continue to rise rapidly to a considerable elevation, and, apparently, Avithout break. As the distance from the shore is increased, still higher hills succeed those near the to^vn ; and soon the long and picturesque line of the Alps rises, and occupies a prominent place m the landscape. One after another, the sno"svy tops are recognised, until they also are lost in the light grey mist which defines the horizon.

The steamer by which I travelled from Trieste to Corfu was more remarkable for its comfortable arrangements than for speed. The number of first-class passengers was very small, and the society not lively, but the cuisine was fair, and everythmg clean and weU ordered. Italian was the language almost exclusively spoken, though German was understood. Italian politics, also, were altogether in the ascendant. One of the party at table (the doctor) was an Austrian Pole, — a little, weazen old man, whose chief occupation seemed to be to lament and maunder, sotto voce, in Gennan, on some matter that had been the subject of conversation half an hour before. Long after the two or three persons who remamed in the cabin after dinner had left the table and were amusing themselves with reading, this poor gentleman would be heard mutterhig to himself, or addressing one of his companions without the smallest chance or expectation of being replied to. The purser who, like the doctor, was out of unifonii, was the chief talker. The captain appeared generally in light kid gloves, and was accompanied by his wife and children. He was, evidently, far too fine a gentleman to do anything but please himself.

The voyage from Trieste to Corfu direct, ^\dthout stopping at Ancona, occupies about forty-eight hours, but, m bad weather, may take three or four hours more. On the present occasion, the weather was perfectly favourable; and I was informed by the purser, that had we been provided with English coal only, we should have gained some hours. But there was nothuig to regret. Coasting, during the first evening, close to the eastern shores of the Adriatic, we passed next morniiig near several islands, the largest of which, Lyssa, is an Austrian settlement of about 8,000 Dalmatians, and a war harbour of some Uttle importance. We also passed in sight of several smaller and uninhabited islands and rocks. During the rest of the second day, tlierc avms notliin;^ woi'tliv of notice. On

APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN. 11

the third mornmg, the high ground of the north of Corfu was visible in the distance, and the grand Acroceraunian cliffs of Albania, rising abruptly from the water m a steep slope, almost amountmg to a vertical Avail, were seen streaked with snow where they cut the blue sky. Behind them, at intervals, could be seen, from time to time, the far loftier ridges of the Albanian mountams. These were so completely and densely covered with snow that no break, or shadow, was discernible m the flat expanse they presented ; and their Avhiteness contrasted with the thm greyish outline of the nearer and more thuily-clad summits.

Very soon the hills of Corfu become more distract; the little light-house of Trogonos is shot past ; the low hills that separate the great sheet of water behmd Butrinto from the open channel, are lost sight of; and, presently, the deep, open bay and sheltered roads of Corfu are seen, graced by several large ships of war and numerous smaller craft, and protected by the little bristling island of Vido, and the loftier citadel and castle close to the town.

The first aspect of Corfu, and most of the vieAvs that can afterwards be obtamed of the island and of the o]3posite Albanian coast, are extremely grand. The channel of Corfu is so narrow at the upper or northern extremity, and the ground is so high in that direction, that the appearance of the channel from the middle of the island is that of a bay or mlet of the sea. Towards the south, the island curves round to the south east, and the main land curves to meet it, so that the southern outlet of the channel is also narrowed, though less so than the north, and thus from some points, the whole resembles a vast lake. Few islands can be seen except Yido and the Lazzaretto, and no well supplied river of the smallest importance breaks the long line of coast. There is, too, a certain monotony m the general effect that will ]je understood by those who are in the habit of noticing the causes of picturesque beauty, for all the rocks are of the same material — limestone, — and most of them are m the same state. Still, that traveller must be very fastidious in scenery, who would not be both delighted and surprised at the first sight of Corfu.