The Channel Islands ... With illustrations drawn by P. J. Naftel

Front matter

i» 8»o., price 15s. 1 %n Inrprg into t^t Cartes ai Hisiarg, CHANCE, LAW, WILL, WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO THE PRINCIPLES OF THE POSITIVE PHILOSOPHY. and an interesting book; tor the writer, while an accurate and in some respects an original thinker, has *> command of a clear and animated style. he g« i il scope of the book is the it naked positivism of which H. Comte is the ape i Of the whole work we. can confidently say that it is one to be read by every man interested in these questions. It is a weighty treatise, and an important contribution to philu sophy." — The Press, August 16, '• Written to combat certain opinions which have lately been gaining ground with some classes of thinkers, this treatise is welt- ;t Li no more boldness than is pro- ■ !:iims that tlie views of wise all not be disregarded re isotn and that nothing . improved shall be accepted eimplybt iu a impudence.

His own language throughmoderati tnd logical Con -.rrvative on principle, it is a part of his consir tin ; ..uly progress of mankind to ;'>pment of new though in ige us human history, and ready to accept all that bears the stamp of truth. In a bonk I 11 of arj n< nl *rad oi i upying Jusl boi -/-land of inetaphysi. to i ail than the defined circle of j-sics itseli ll vould be easy to dispancies of thought and eontrai ii; but the faults are few, i I .i rita -i-ny." — Examiner, Aug. 16, 18 ;-A " The whole book bears the evident mark of maturity of thought. The third chapter is full of thoughtful and able argument, in i the positions, not only of Comte, but i of M ill, are powerfully and successfully ussailed." — Spectator. " Written with remarkable ability, and considering its polemical spirit, with excel lent temper.

The style is always animated, and at times felicitous. The volume giveB ample proof of metaphysical acuteness. One good fiei ice Li irill certainly effect, namely, that of fastening the attention of its readers on the ?reat fundamental pro blems of histo rical science." — Carnh'dl 1/ " This work has evidently been written j with considerable thought and great re- I search," — Observer. '• The book now under notice is no doubt heavy and massive, but no competent critic will be prepared to pronounce it dull.'4-' It is exceedingly calm and candid, clear sighted, and ingenious in an eminent degree. It is well thought and weightily written. We have not come across a book of the present day for a considerable while so far removed from the common run of writing and of thinking as this otio is. This author manifests that originality which always goes to the centre of a question, whether well or illconceired, and takes sundry important and fresh views of the entire problem before turning asids from the contemplation of it Be the writer who he may, he has the credit, at least, of producing a highly original work."

Preface

. More than four years' residence in Guernsey, — -a central position, where frequent opportunities are afforded of visiting Jersey, Alderney, Sark and Herm, — and an intimate acquaintance with various Residents in the Channel Islands and Visitors interested in literary and scientific pursuits, have seemed to the Writer to justify him in undertaking the present work. He may be regarded as the general Editor as well as one of the Authors. That the Channel Islands, as a group, deserve and require a monograph, will, it is believed, be admitted without a question. That no treatise, combining a general description of them with a careful account of their Natural History, Ethnology and Archæology, has yet been published, is certain. It is for the public to decide how far the present work is sufficient and satisfactory.

PREFACE.

. VIII The work is divided into four parts. For the first part— a Physical and Descriptive account of the Islands and their Climate— the Editor is alone responsible. With regard to the second part — general Natural History — the case is different. The Editor not being conversant with the details of Botany and Zoology, has sought and ob tained the assistance of many friends and acquaintances, residents and visitors, all zealous and able Naturalists, who have communicated the results of their investiga tions in the most frank and friendly manner. A hst of the names of these, and of others to whom the Authors are indebted for information, is pubhshed at the end of the preface, and an acknowledgment of the special ser vices of each will be found in the text. The magnitude and importance of the assistance obtained hi technical Botany and Zoology will be at once seen by examining the lists of species in Chapters VIII. and IX.

The account of the Geology of the Islands is entirely by the Editor. The third part of the book, on the History, Archæ ology, and Language of the Channel Islands is the ex clusive work of Dr. R. G. Latham. He believes that in the doctrine he has advanced concerning the comparative unimportance of the Norse, and the comparative impor tance of certain other elements of the early history of

PREFACE.

. IX the Islands, he has suggested a series of obscure and neglected facts which, when recognised, will largely influence the opinion of future historians of Normandv and the southern parts of England, as well as of the Channel Islands. He offers this as his excuse for the insertion of a certain amount of matter and certain negative conclusions, which might otherwise seem to be irrelevant. For the later history he has drawn freely upon various well known books. Among these, he would more espe cially indicate the writings of Falle, Duncan, and Dr. Hoskins. For the antiquarian details Mr. F. C. Lukis, of Guernsey, is the principal authority. The fourth part of the work and the Appendices have been prepared by the Editor. In the chapter on the Laws and Constitution of the Islands he has to acknow ledge important assistance, chiefly from the Bailiff of Guernsey.

The picturesque illustrations must be noticed here, on account of the peculiarly favourable auspices under which they appear. Almost all the draAvings were executed on wood from original sketches, taken expressly with a view to illustrate pohits selected by the Editor. Two artists have combined to give value to this department. (Jf Paul J. Naftel, the name alone will be sufficient X

PREFACE.

. to satisfy every reader who appreciates art that the most conscientious accuracy has been obtained, as well as the most exquisite taste in drawing. Of Mr. Peter Le Lievre, whose pictures are only known to those who have visited his studio in Guernsey, it may safely be said that his success in art is not less remarkable than his familiarity with the details of Natural History. Ample proof of both will lie found in the following pages. It rarely falls to the lot of an Author to have his ideas and wishes with regard to illustration so completely carried out as has been the case in the volume now published. It is with singular satisfaction that the Editor finds his name associated on the title page with the names of friends whose assistance has tended to give a character of completeness to the work not otherwise attainable.

It is right to state, that the execution of the various drawings has been almost entirely a labour of love. D. T. ANSTED. Impington Hall, Cambridge, November, 1862. LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS. The follomng List contains the names, placed in alphabetical order, of those -persons from whom the Authors have received information made use of in the present volume. Joslma Alder, Esq. Newcastle-on-Tyne. Mr. Arnold . . . Guernsey. Dr.J.S.Bowerbank, F.R.S. London. The Rev. T. Brehaut . Guernsey. George Busk, Esq., F.R.S. London. P. S. Carey, Esq. . . Guernsey. H. O. Carre, Esq. . . Guernsey. The Rev. Col. W. Collings Sark. P. Le Lievre, Esq. . The Misses Le Lievre Guernsey. Guernsey. W. H. Le Mesurier, Esq. . Guernsey. F. C. Lukis, Esq. . . Guernsey. Dr. F. Lukis . . . Guernsey. G. F. Lystcr, Esq. . . Liverpool.

Dr. T. Mansell . . . Guernsey. James May, Esq. . . Alderney. Mrs. W. Collings . Sark. J. T. Gallienne, Esq. . Guernsey. Mrs. Gaudion . . Alderney. Dr. Hilton . . . Cuckfield. George Metivier, Esq. . Guernsey. Mr. T. Nant . . . Guernsey. Mr. Piquet . . . Jersey. The Rev. C. Robinson . Alderney. Dr. Hoskins . . . Guernsey. Peter Jeremie, Esq. . . Guernsey. F. P. Johnson, Esq. . . Jersey. Charles Larbalestier, Esq. Jersey. Col. Lc Couteur, F.R.S. . Jersey. Mrs. Le Couteur . . Jersey. T. G. Ryland, Esq. . . Warrington Major Smith, R.M. . . Portsea. Dr. George Wallich . . London. Miss White . . . Jersey. Miss Wilkinson . . Guernsey. Mr. G. Wolsey . . Guernsey.

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA. 19, line 3 from bottom, and afterwards, for Clonque read Clanque. 48, line 1 of foot note, for Moee read Moie. 58, line 1, for puits re&d puit. 96, line 9, for Lister read Lyster. 97, line 2 from bottom, and afterwards, for Mont Orgeuil read Mont Orgueil. 100, dele the foot note. 101, in foot note, for XL, on Modern Geology, read X, on Geology. 134, in table, mean of ozone in spring, for '3, read 3'3. 156, line 4, dele the. 194, for Orthosira orichacea read O. orichalcea. 241, Une 2, for produces read produce. 271, lino 3 from bottom, for Mont Madoc read Mont Mado. 297, to the list of non-metallic minerals, add the following, on the authority of Mr. Lukis : — graphite, satin spar, garnet, spodumene, analcime, chabasite, mesotype, stilbite, pyroxene, and diallage. 303, line 9, dele as this. 372, last line, for a read the. 391, hue 8 from bottom, after " an address " add " was voted." 405, in this page, the paragraph in small type should be a foot note to the last word of the second paragraph, and marked accordingly. 451, ine 25, for Baptist read Baptiste. 502, line 2 from bottom, in foot note, for granite read granites. 512, line 7, dele also.

Note. — In the account of foraminifera dredged off Guernsey, given in pages 295-6, it should have been stated that the species, determined by Mr. Rupert Jones, have been identified as of cocene date, and appear to correspond with those in a small eoeene deposit on the coast of Britany. They are believed by Mr. Gwynn Jeffreys to exist in situ, and not to have been drifted, but they have uot since been looked for in the same spot. Page 1 18 CONTENTS. PART THE FIRST. steal &ngtaptyg. CHAPTEE I THE ENGLISH CHANNEL AND THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. Geographical position of the islands.- — Absence of harbours on the French coast. — Area enclosing the islands. — The various groups. — The sea-bottom around them. — Changes undergone to produce them. — Course of the tidal wave. — -The islands rich in natural history and scenery. — Interest attaching to them. — Time -when they should be visited. — Importance as military stations. — Absence of Celtic element. — Approaching change. — Names and areas of the rocky groups. — Lighthouses on the French coast. — Chasse Marees -------- CHAPTEE II.

ALDEENET, OETACH, AND THE CASQUETS Geographical position of Alderney. — Its form, dimensions, and elevation. — Survey of the coast. — The Harbour. — Original plan and subsequent modifications.— Fort Touraille. — The sand-stone quarries. — Coast scenery. — The cliffs. — The forts. — The hanging rock. — The town of St. Anne, and its church. — Les Rochers. — Burhou Islands.— Ortach. — The 'Casquets' Eocks, and their light-houses. Banks near the Casquets ------ c CONTENTS. XIV Page 36 60 CHAPTEE III. THE ISLAND AND COAST OF GUEENSET. Position of Guernsey.— Its area and elevation.— Surrounding rocks.— The ' Grunes '—Belgrave Bay.— Town of St. Peter's Port.— The college .—The church.— The old harbour.— The present harbour and proposed completion.— Castle Cornet.— St. Sampson's and its harbour.— Ivy Castle.— Coast scenery.— Les Terres.— Fermain Bay and Bon Air.— Jerbourg, and its cavern. — The Doyle column.— Moulin Huet.—Icart.— Petit Bot— Moye Point. —The Corbiere.— Creux Mahie.— The Hanois rock and its lighthouse. — Pleinmont. — Eocquaine. — Lihou. — Grande Eocque. — Grande Havre.— L'Ancresse.— The Vale.— Vale Castle.— The valleys and glens. — Water lanes. — Gardens. — Churches- Houses. — Military defences. — Eoads - - - - CHAPTEE IV.

ISLANDS AND EOCKS NEAE GTTEBNSEY. The Little Eussel. — Heem. — Coast scenery. — Creux. — Land slips. — Shell beach. — Farms. — Copper ore.— Granite. — Game. — Water. — Jethou. — Eocks and islands near Jethou. — Cbetichon. — The Ferrieres and Sardriere. Saek. — Position and dimensions. — Adjacent islands. — Coast scenery. — Le Tas. — The Pot. — DTxcart Bay and Valley. — Creux du Derrible. — Creux Harbour. — Baker's Valley. — Greve de la Ville and Chapelle Mauve. — Boutiques Caverns. — The Autelets. — Gouliot Eock and caverns. — Havre Gosselin. — Little Sark. — Brechou. — The Coupee. — Tlie mines. — The Seigneurie. — Supply of water. — Supply of food CHAPTEE V. THE ISLAND OF JEESEY AND THE ADJACENT EOCKS. Position of Jersey. — Its dimensions and elevation. — Scenery of the coast. — Scenery of the interior. — View from the sea. — St. Helier's, its harbour, pier and docks. — Fort Eegent. — -Samares Bay. — St. Clement's Bay, — La Motte. — Pontac. — Grouville Bay. — Mont Orgueil. — Crete Point. — St. Catherine's. — La CONTENTS.

XV Page Coupe. — Saie Harbour. — The Douet de la Mer. — Eozel. — The Sauchet. — Bouley Bay.— Giffard's Bay and Bonne Nuit. ■ — Les Mouriers waterfall. — Crabbe. — Greve de Lecq. — Greve au Lancon. — Plemont. — Caverns. — Cape Grosnez. — Pinnacle rock. — L'Etac. — St. Ouen's Bay. — The Corbieres. — Moye Point. — Creux. — Beau Port.— St. Brelade's.— St. Aubin's and its Bay. — Elizabeth Castle and the Hermitage Eock. — Streams. — Val leys. — Interior of Jersey— Table lands. — Churches. — Manor House of St. Ouen. — Prince's tower - UI CHAPTEE VI. THE CHAUSSEY AECHIPELA&O AND THE MINQUIEES. Plateau des Minquiers. — The Maitresse He. — Les Faucheurs. — Les Douvres. — Plateau de Barnouic. — The Chaussey islands. — Appearance from Granville. — The Grande He. — Cultivation. — The spring of fresh water. — Appearance at low tide. — Abundance of Zostera marina. — Multitude of rocks. — Fishing. — Stone cutting. — Barilla making. — Population of the islands. — M. de Quatrefages. — Light-house. — Modern fortifications - - - 122 CHAPTEE VII.

CLIMATE AND METEOBOLOGY OF THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, AND THE1E SANITAEY CONDITION. Guernsey the typical island. — Elements of the Guernsey climate. — ■ Mean temperature of the year — and of the seasons. — Comparison of range with Greenwich. — Smallness of maxima and minima of temperature. — Eipening of fruit. — Variations of the barometer. — Force and direction of winds. — Eain-fall. — Cloud, snow, and hail. — Moisture and fog. — Electric state of the air.— Ozone. — Climate of Jersey. — Comparison with Guernsey.— Climate of Alderney — and Sark. — General conditions of climate in the islands. — Occasional phenomena. — Possible alteration 01 climate. — Sanitary condition. Jersey. — Guernsey. — Effect of change of air in passing from one island to another - - - CONTENTS. XVI PART THE SECOND. Dtofand fistois.

CHAPTEE VIII. THE VEGETABLE PEODUCTIONS NATUBAL TO THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. Page Botany of the islands — Eeferences— Trees and shrubs.— Absence of timber.— The furze and bramble.— Flowering plants.— Eichness of the islands in wild flowers.— Eare wild flowers.— Characteristic groups. — Sea-side plants.— Water lanes. — Sedges and marsh plants.— Grasses.— Ferns.— Eare and beautiful species of ferns. — The hart's tongue fern.— Equisetaceæ, Characeæ, and Mar siliaeeæ.—Mosses and allied plants.— Lichens. — Fungi. — Sea-weeds. — Diatomaceæ. — General summary - - - 164 CHAPTEE IX. THE ANIMALS LIVING IN THE CHANNEL ISLANDS AND IN THE ADJACENT SEAS. Mammalia. — Birds.— Eeptiles. — Fishes.— Cephalopoda. — Marine univalves and multivalves.' — Land and fresh water univalves. — Sea slugs. — Bivalve shells. — Tunicated molluscs. — Polyzoa. — Beetles. — Orthoptera, &c. — Butterflies and moths. — Other insects. — Spiders. — Cirrhipedia. — Crustacea. — Annelida and Turbellaria. — Eadiata. — Acalephæ. — Zoophytes. — Foraminifera. — Sponges. —General summary ------ 200 CHAPTEE X. GEOLOGY AND SIINEBALOGY OF THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. — ANCIENT FOEMATIONS.

The Channel Islands an instructive geological locality. — Metamorphic rocks. — Their history . — Syenitic and hornblendic rocks. — Intrusive veins. — Eesult of theoretical changes. — Elevation axis of Guernsey. — Granite and gneiss. — Herm and its veins. — Sark and its veins. — Alderney. — Sand-stone rock. — Its position. — Jersey. — Its clay slate and shale. — Syenites. — Cherts and hornstones. — Older conglomerate. — Newer conglomerate. — Frequent upheavals ------.. CONTENTS. XVII CHAPTEE XI. geology continued. — MODEEN destbuction and EENOVATION. Page Modern causes of change. — Earthquakes. — Eaised beaches. — Submerged peat. — Corban. — Destruction of the coast line. — Caverns. ■ — Pierced and detached rocks. — Creux. — Eotten granite and sand. ■ — Jersey conglomerate. — Alderney boulders. — Flints in conglomerate.— Blown sands. — Jersey -and Herm. — Foraminiferous rock near Guernsey. — List of minerals - - - 276 CHAPTEE XII.

THE FAUNA AND FLOEA OF THE CHANNEL ISLANDS, CONSIDEEED IN EEFEEENCE TO THEIE PHYSICAL GEOGBAPHY AND GEOLOGY. Imperfection of the natural history lists. — Value of an insular flora and fauna. — Effects of insulation in the development of permanent varieties. — Eichness of the Channel Islands in species.' — The species continental. — Comparison of bulk of individuals. — Overlapping zones of faunas and floras. — Assumed recent depression of the islands considered. — Destroying action of the sea unusually great in the islands ....'. 298 P A R T T HE T II I R D. 0M Jj wtat%. CHAPTEE XIII. HISTOEY. — PAGAN AND LEGENDABY PEEIOD. Eelations of the islands with England and France. — What is a Norman? — Early tribes and their names. — The Saxon shore. — The Armoricans. — Migrations of the Alani. — First introduction of Christianity. — St. Sampson. — St. Helerius.— The islands connected with Britany rather than with Normandy - - CONTENTS.

XVIII Page 328 OF 353 373 CHAPTEE XIV. eaely HISTOEY continued. — GEEMAN PERIOD. Inquiry into the meaning of the name Norman.— How Normandywas Germanised.— Absence of historical evidence for the early history.— Icelandic Sagas.— The Saxon chronicle.— Traces of the Northmen exist wherever they are known to have been. — Gothic origin of the Dukes of Normandy. — Settlement of the Jutes. — The Chattuarii.— The Danes.— The Leti. — General conclusion - CHAPTEE XV. LATEB HISTOEY, FEOM THE NOEMAN CONQUEST TO THE BEGINNING THE CIVIL WAES. The history of the islands till the reign of John —The supposed ' Constitution of John.' — Separation from Normandy not complete. — Ecclesiastical government. — Privilege of neutrality secured. — Naval battle with the Spaniards during the reign of Edward the Third. — Evan of Wales.— Jersey held by the French in the reign of Henry the Fifth. — The Reformation in the islands. — Transfer to Enghsh dioceses. — Calvinistic tendency of the island religion. — The discipline of the Church of England introduced during the reign of James the First.— Hey lin's account of the islands shortly before the Civil War. — Persecutions under Mary — Prynne's account of Mont Orgueil ------ CHAPTEE XVI.

LATEE HISTOEY Continued.— PEBIOD OF THE CIVIL WAS. Governors of the islands under Charles the First. — Order of the Parliament to seize the Governor of Guernsey. — Seizure by the Governor of the three commissioners at Guernsey. — Landing of the Prince of Wales in Jersey.— The Prince means to depart — is prevented. — Attack by the fleet. — Defence of Castle Cornet in Guernsey. — Distress of the islanders. — Address to Eichard Cromwell. — Accession of Charles the Second. — Condition of the islands during the reign of James the Second - CONTENTS. XIX TO Page 395 408 431

CHAPTER XVII. MODERN HISTOEY.

— FBOM TnE ACCESSION OF WILLIAM THE THIED THE PEESENT TIME. Alarm of French invasion. — Abolition of the privilege of neutrality. — Privateering. — Attacks on Jersey by the French. — Customhouses introduced. — Appeal of the merchants. — Irish mutiny in Guernsey. — Introduction of dissent. — Recent events. — Leasing of Herm under George the Third. — History of Sark. — Its capture and re-eapture. — Settlement from Jersey. — History of the islands since the peace of 1814 -

CHAPTER XVIII. ANTIQUITIES AND

AECHÆOLOGY. Tho islands originally Iberic or Keltic. — Druidic monuments. — Cromlechs. — Great cromlech at St. Helier's. — Guernsey cromlech at L'Ancresse. — Ancient pottery. — Tumuli. — Contents of the cromlechs. — Druidism, its nature as a system. — Only a portion of the old Keltic religion. — Menhirs and their meaning. — Neo-Druidism. — Island orgies. — Doubtful locality of the island Seni. — Keltic origin of some of the names connected with cromlechs. — Paucity of Roman remains hi the islands. — Ecclesiastical architecture. — St. Apolline.- — St. Brelade's -

CHAPTER XIX. LANGUAGE AND LITEEATUEE.

Cidtivation of the French language in England after the Norman Conquest. — Limitation of French to the country north of the Loire.— R. Wace, the earliest island poet. — The Roman de Rou. — Wace's language the language of Normandy. — Later dialects. — Dialect of Sark. — Specimen of Jersey dialect.— Guernsey specimens. — Norman-French of the law courts. — Specimen of Picard dialect. — Names of the islands.— The grand Sarazin and tho Saragouzais. — Talc of Hambey.— Note on a volcano XX CONTENTS. Page 459 483 PART THE FOURTH. tf-nmomks anfo ftrak

CHAPTER XX. AGEICULTUBE.

Published accounts. — Soil and sub-soil. — Nature of sub-soil. — Composition of hornblendic rocks. — Variety of rocks in the islands. — Rapid disintegration of the rock. — Quality of the soil in the different islands. — The Quenvais in Jersey. — Incursions of the sea. — Soil generally light. — Poisonous soil in Guernsey. — Soil of Sark, Herm, and Jethou. — Soil not naturally rich ■ — Manure. — Carelessness of the farmers. — Value of the sea-weed. — Tf'ater supply.— Sources of supply. — Lowering of the water in the springs.- — General abundance of water. — Drainage. — Irrigation. — Holdings of land and enclosures. — Crops. — Farming processes. — Produce of land. — Rent. — Treatment of land. — -Stock. — Breed of cattle. — Peculiarity of colour in the fat and butter. — Sheep. — Horses.— Poultry ......

CHAPTER XXI. HOETICULTUEE.

Feuit-Gabden. General results of cultivation.- — Early ripening of fruit under glass. — The Vine. — Kinds of grapes chiefly cultivated. — Peach. — Apricot. — Plum. — Cherry. — Fig.— Mulberry. — Medlar. — Filberd. — Orange. — Apple.— Varieties of the apple cultivated. — Pear. — Important growth of the Chaumontel Pear. — Large size of the fruit. — -Cordon training of fruit trees by Mr. Brehaut ------- Sheubbeey and Floweb Gaeden. List of hardy, half-hardy, and tender shrubs grown in the islands, but not in the open air in England. — Growth of foreign trees. — Rhododendrons. — Camelhas. — Bulbous plants. — The Gladiolus and Ixia. — Guernsey lily. —Fuchsias. Hydrangeas, and allied shrubs.— Mexican aloe. — Yuccas.— Bare grasses ---... CONTENTS. XXI CHAPTEE XXII. TEADE, COMMEECE, and MANUFACTUEES.

Page Shipping of Jersey and Guernsey. — Stone tradeof Guernsey. — Quality of the stone. — Statistics of the trade.- — Jersey and Herm syenite. — Chaussey granite. — Vegetables and fruit. — Large export of potatoes. — Trade in pears, apples, and grapes. — Butter. — Fish and shell fish. — Large oyster trade. — Cattle, pigs, and poultry. Imports of meat. — Kelp and iodine.- — Manufacture of iodine in Guernsey. — Vraicking.— Arrowroot. — Han - - - 501 CHAPTEE XXIII. CONSTITUTION AND LAWS. The islands divided into two groups. — Great differences in law and constitution. — Origin of the ' States." — The suffrage.- — Parochial officers.— Public officers.- — Lieutenant Governor. — Bailiff.— Jurats. — Eoyal court.— The States of Jersey. — Elective and Deliberative States of Guernsey. — Standing committees of the States. — Chef Plaids of Guernsey.- — Law courts. — Origin of the laws. — Trial by jury in Jersey. — The courts of Guernsey. — The court of Alderney.- — Court at Sark. — Division and succession of property.

Liability to arrest. — Appeal of Ha ! Eo ! — Game laws. — ' Rents ' and holdings of land. — Descent of real property. — All island causes tried in the islands. — Ecclesiastical arrangements. — Effect of the constitution. — Legal education - - - - 518 CHAPTEE XXIV. MANNEES AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS, AND PBINCIPAL PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. Manners and Customs. — The " lit de fouaille." — Manorial courts. — Houses and churches. — Their architectural style. — Costumes. — — Independent manners. — Parsimonious habits. — Cliques. — Divisions of society. — Hospitality. — Inducements to reside in the islands.— Militia. — Extentof the force. — Law regarding straDgers. — Educational institutions.- — Colleges in Jersey and Guernsey. — Petite ecole. — Societies and associations. — Mechanics' Institutes. — Museums. — Agricultural Societies. — Savings' banks. — Charitable institutions. — De la Court fund. — Hospitals. — Church services.— Markers. — Conclusion ----- CONTENTS.

XXII Page 563 571 578 585 APPENDICES. A. HINTS TO TOUEISTS. Means of communication. — Luggage. — Selection of steamer.— Postal arrangements. — Landing and hotel accommodation. — Porters. — Lodgings. — Public conveyances. — Eeading rooms. — Bathing accommodation - ----." B MONEY, WEIGHTS, AND MEASUEES. Money. Circulating medium. — Value of the currency in Jersey and Guernsey, and of the pound sterling in both islands. — The livre tournois and sol. — Bank notes and coins. Weights. The pound weight in Jersey and Guernsey. — Determination of the Eouen pound. — The Amsterdam pound. — Eelative and actual value of the standards. — The smaller divisions of the pound.— The French kilo. Measures. Linear and square measures. — The vergee. — Liquid measures. — Dry measures. — The cabot, and the denerel, and the quarter.

Sark and Alderney measures - c. STATISTICS. (1.) Population of the islands and towns. — Large proportion of females in the towns. (2.) Number of Houses in the islands. (3.) Value of life at different ages and in different occupations. — Large number of fishermen and quarrymen in Guernsey (4.) Education. (5.) Miscellaneous statistics. (6.) Revenue and debt of the islands ------- Geneeal Alphabetical Index N.B. 1, 2. 3, 4 5. 6. INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS. r. PICTURESQUE ILLUSTRATIONS. -Where not otherwise mentioned, these illustrations were sketched from nature expressly for the present work. They have been drawn on wood by the artists named. $tm%. Drawn by Page View of Caverns and a detached Pinnacle Mock, in the Greve au Lancon P. J. Naftel. 107 View of the Corbieres Rocks, from the shore, taken near low mater . . . . . .

P. J. Naftel. 112 View of St. Brelade's Pay and the Pocks beyond, taken from the cliff's near Moye Point, looking East P. J. JJAftel. 121 View of Elizabeth Castle, from the sands in St. Aubin's Bay, taken near sunset . . . P. J. NA.FTEL. 157 Boulders in Saie Harbour. View of the fragments of conglomerate fallen from the cliff and weathered by the air or rolled and rounded by the action of the sea P. J. Naftel. 275 La Pule' or the Pinnacle Rock, near l'Etac — a nearly detached granitic rock overhanging the sea ......... P. J. Naftel. INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS. t Drawn by « Page 7. Picturesque and Grotesque Rocks at Beau Port, near Moye Point ....... P. J. Naftel. 307 8. View of ' the Hermitage ' near Elizabeth Castle, St. Aubin's Bay, seen from the rocks adjacent . P. J. Naftel. 323 9. St. Brelade's Church and the small Chapel adjacent, seen from the road coming down from the Moye Point ........

P. J. Naftel. 328 10. View of St. Catherine's Bay, with Archirondelle Tower in the middle distance .... P. J. Naftel. 352 11. The Castle of Mont Orgueil, seen from the sands of Grouville Bay, with the shipping in Gorey Harbour P. J. Naftel. 372 12. View of a remarkable Cromlech, formerly on the hill behind the town of St. Helier's, removed on the construction of the Fort ..... P. Le Lievee. 411 13. Tlew of the Gateway to Mont Orgueil, looking down upon Gorey Harbour and Pier P. J. Naftel. 469 14. View of Bouley Bay from the rocky cliff called the Etacqtierel ....:. P. J. Naftel. 474 15. A Ruined Arch, part of an old castle, near the extremity of Cape Grosnez .... P. J. Naftel. 501 16. A Stone Anchor : a Sketch on the Coast, the Martello tower in Grouville Bay in the middle distance .... P. J. Naftel. 511 17.

View of a Cromlech near Anne Port, behind Mont Orgueil ...... P. J. Naftel. 518 18. View of St. Mary's Church, seen from the road leading fo the waterfall of " Les Mouriers" . P. J. Naftel. 546 §m\\sq. 19. View of the House and Grounds of Bon Air, seen from the hill overlooking Fermain Bay P. J. Naftel. 45 P. Le Lievee. 57 20. The Old Porch of St. Martin's Church 21. Sketch of a Cottage Doorway, with the rounded stone arch usual in the older houses in the island . P. Le Lievee. 60 22. The Islands of Herm, Jethou and Crevichon, and part of Sark, seen across the Russel Channel, from the Vale Castle P. J. Naftel. 62 23. View of one of the ' Water Lanes ' in St. Martin's, characteristic of Guernsey vegetation P. J. Naftel. 179 2 1. View of the Gateway of the Vale Castle, now occupied as a barrack P. Le Lievee.