Narrative of a Journey into Khorasan in the Years 1821 and 1822

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| | eSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSS999 | THE | 8 ASIATIC SOCIETY OF BOMBAY & | Town Hall, Bombay. :

Preface

So many works relating to Persia have of late years appeared before the public, that some account may be expected of the motives for bringing forward another volume upon the same subject.

The author when he determined to travel in Persia, resolved also to devote all the time he could command, to exploring new tracts, and thus to exert his best ability in adding to the information already before the public, rather than to follow in the course of former travellers. With this object in’ view he proposed to himself to leave the beaten track as soon as possible, and as the country to the east of Tehran had not been visited by Europeans for many years, he selectéd it asa fit field of enquiry ; and purposed to proceed through Khorasan, by such route as might promise to be most interesting, to Bockhara and Samarcand, or even further to the eastward, as circumstances might suggest or admit. ~

With the wish of rendering this journey as useful as possible, he supplied himself with the best instruments that India could afford, for taking astronomical observations to fix the latitude and longitude of the ‘various places through which he should pass; and these, as will be seen in the sequel, were constantly and assiduously employed.

In the same spirit, although he has no pretensions to a scientific acquaintance with geology, he yet selected specimens of the pre-

a2 iv PREFACE.

dominating rocks and minerals as he passed-along, carefully noting the formation and stratification of the hills, with such other localities as might tend to describe the country in his route; and these have all been laid before the Geological Society.

Sketches weré also made on the spot of every remarkable or interesting scene that occurred upon the route, and great pains were taken to embody in these the characteristic features of the country, - including its buildings and costume. |

In soliciting the public attention, therefore, to the present volume, the author purposes to describe a part of the country hitherto very little known ;. and he has spared no exertion to render that description as complete as circumstances would permit. Disappointed, as he unfortunately was, in carrying his intentions fully into execution, he has only been enabled to give a few particulars regarding the more remote but very interesting countries to the east of Khorasin, collected from such sources as he could command; but he trusts that the geographical observations which he has been enablect to make upon the countries in and bordering upori the line of his route, may be found of some importance.

The author also conceives that he enjoyed some peculiar and considerable advantages in the course of his travels; not the least

_ of these was ,his\intimacy during the early part of the journey with the late Dr. Andraw Jukes, a gentleman who, independent of the official situation he held, -had, during a long residence in Persia, become well acquainted with the country and its ‘inhabitants, and who was ever ready to communicate the knowledge he possessed, or to assist in obtaining fur&ger information.

His protracted resNence at several places, although under circumstances often painful\gnd embarrassing, was yet very favourable

PREFACE 7 to the prosecution of his enquiries; and the circumstance of his wearing the native dress, with the various introductions he received from native friends, procured him admission upon intimate terms, into the houses of several chiefs and nobles. It may be added that he enjoyed the means of visiting the courts of most of the Persian princes of consideration, and had access to many of their principal and confidential servants ; nor ought it to be omitted that he received from every Englishman in Persia, all the information which their respective situations enabled them to afford; to many of them, indeed, he holds himself indebted in'a degree that no acknowledgments can. sufficiently express.

But a desire to communicate original information, though a powerful motive to this work, was not the only one. If the author may be permitted to judge from his own experience, a very erroneous impression appears generally to prevail regarding the character and value of the Persian nation, and the power and resources of its government; not that the opinions commonly entertained of either the one or the other are very precise or very exalted, but that the extreme degree of poverty, depravity, and weakness which characterize the country, are by no means understood, and that, as the author humbly conceives, sufficient pains have not been taken in most of the works that have appeared upon the subject, to impress these. facts upon the public.

In the present work the author has endeavoured to convey to his readers, the impressions which he himself received from the. events that passed before him, during his residence in the country, and as these (he trusts) are faithfully and impartially related, every one will be enabled to judge for himself, how far the conclusions that have been drawn in certain parts of it, are correct. He would earnestly a PREFACE.

wish to avoid the charge of presumption, in differing, as he may occasionally appear to do, from some high authorities that have preceded him, but not for this would he withhold or disguise his real opinion. Truth can only be elicited by free and open discussion, and if it be desirable to know the real condition of a country so remote, but on many accounts so interesting, and the friendship of which has more than once been considered as of consequence to Great Britain, that object can only be attained by submitting to a strict examination, and comparing together the various accounts which travellers bring from thence.

In the prosecution of his intended journey, the author, after reaching Tehran by the usual route, travelled eastward into Khorasan, as far as its capital, Mushed; but finding the state of the country around that city too disturbed to admit of his further progress towards Bockhara, he returned westward by the route of Koordistan*, Goorgaun, Astrabad, and Mazunderaén (supposed to be the ancient Parthia and Hyrcania), and coasted the Caspian Sea, as far as Resht, the chief town of Gheelan, - where he was detained a prisoner for a considerable time, under circumstances of a singular nature. Upon his release he continued his journey along the sea coast, occasionally striking into the interior; and ascending the lofty mountains which separate the provinces of Gheelan and Azerbijan, occupied by the wild tribes of Talish, he passed through Ardebeel, and finally rejomed his countrymen at Tabreez.

It was at first expected that the whole work might have been compressed into a single volume quarto, or two volumes octavo ; but when the materials were arranged, this was found impossible. it

* A district so called from being inhabited by colonies of Koords, of which a description will be found in the work, and which must be distinguished from the great district of that name, situated in the West of Persia.

PREFACE. vil

Was, therefore, determined to divide it into two parts, the. first of which, now published, carries on the narrative to Astrabad ; and the second, to contain every thing that occurred after reaching that place, will be published as soon as circumstances permit.

: It was intended to have inserted, in the Appendix of this volume, a Geological Memoir, prepared from the materials furnished to the Geological Society ; but this could not be got ready in time, and it will appear in the Appendix of the Second Part.

Of the large number of sketches descriptive of the scenery, buildings, and costume which were taken by the author, it was proposed that a selection should be engraved to accompany the present volume ; but it was found that even a small number, if tolerably ' executed, would add very greatly to the expence of the book, while they could convey but a very imperfect idea of the appearance of the country. It was, therefore, resolved upon to insert none ; but, if sufficient encouragement should be found, to execute and publish a separate work, to consist entirely of engravings after drawings from these sketches, placing it thus in the power of any one to possess himself of the book or plates separately. A prospectus of this intended work is bound up with this volume, and may be referred to for further particulars.

The map and geographical sketches in thé Appendix require a more particular notice; but this will be found in the note prefixed to the former. The sources from whence the author derived his information have generally been mentioned in their respective places. That which relates to Khorasan and Khyvah was almost entirely collected by himself; but for much of that which regards Mawur-a-ul-nehr, and every thing- to the east of Khorasan, he feels himself deeply indebted to the friendship of Mr. Wiiuram Ensxive,

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late of Bombay, who not only furnished him with ‘some valuable routes and memorandums connected with those countries, but who, having himself had occasion to ‘make'them the objects of his particular study, was enabled to assist the author with many suggestions of great importance to this part of thework. The extracts from the journal of Meer Izzut Oollah form not the least valuable portion of his obligations to the liberal kindness of this gentleman.

. The Author was, unfortunately, unprovided with any instrument for determining the height of mountains; but, with the view of forming a scale which should give some idea of the relative heights of places, he-used a large and sensible thermometer to ascertain the boiling point of water, in different situations; and the results will be found tabulated in the Appendix, There also will be found such few observations on the state of the weather and: the thermometer which the uncertainty of halting, the unavoidable accidents of travelling, and his numerous other avocations enabled him to collect. |

In the first part of the narrative, which describes his voyage up the Persian Gulf,.and his journey to Tehran, the author has endeavoured to avoid those subjects which have been amply treated of by late travellers, except where difference of opinion made it necessary to notice them, and has confined himself to such incidents and observations as promised to be interesting, or as were connected with the objects of the work. On this principle he has said nothing regarding Persepolis, or the other antiquities situated near the road; and no descriptions have been given of the principal towns or cities which occur in the way. The latter, and most considerable part, is occupied by the journey from Tehran to Mushed, and thence to Astrabad, which, passing over new ground, he has done his

. PREFACE. ix best to describe. minutely, and, by relating many incidental occurrences, to. give the most lively idea in his power of the country and the people that came under his ‘observation.

With regard to the general execution of the work, he can only’ say that he has endeavoured to relate, truly and simply, what he ‘saw and heard. He can make no pretension to elegance of style, and is aware that, from the ‘nature of the subject, and his’ own unskilfulness, his book must: be defective in those charms which | depend upon the interest of great personal adventure and felicitous narration. Such as-it is, however, he submits it to the judgment of the Public, assured that where the author’s intentions have been good, imperfections in execution will meet with, indulgence.

NOTE RESPECTING THE MAP.

Tuosr who are acquainted with the geography of Persia as it is delineated in the existing maps, will observe upon looking over that which accompanies this work, that a considerable change has been made in the position of several important places, the accuracy of which had not heretofore been impugned ; thus Tehran has been moved thirty miles more to the eastward, Semnoon and Damghan still further, and in the situation of Nishapore and Mushed an alteration of nearly two and three degrees, respectively, was found necessary in longitude ; and in latitude, the latter was wrong a whole degree.

It is therefore due to the public to explain the method by which the map was constructed, and the ground upon which these alterations have been made.

It has already been observed that the author carried along with him astronomical instruments * of a superior description; with thesearegular and daily series of observations was conducted from one place to another, during the whole course of his journey. Latitudes were taken at every halting place ; a meridian altitude of the sun, or of one or two stars, was used for this purpose, when resting but one day or night; two celestial bodies were always observed when practicable, and those of opposite declinations were preferred, that errors of the instrument, or those which depend upon refraction, might be neutralized: whenever the party remained longer than one day, a great number of observations were taken, and the true latitude deduced from a mean of the whole. t

In order to obtain the chronometrical interval between each halting place with the greatest possible accuracy, the rate of the watch was constantly and carefully ascertained; equal altitudes of the sun, or the altitude of some celestial body being taken every day, for the purpose of finding the true time;

* These instruments consisted of a capital sextant, 10 inches radius, by Berge, on a gravitating balance stand, a fine chronometer by Arnold, another by Hatton, a large telescope by Harris, calculated for observing the eclipses of Jupiter’s satellites, and possessing magnifying powers from 80 to 140 degrees: the only surveying compass was a small one by Schmalchalder with sights and a reflecting lens. ;

+ So accurate was the instrument found to be, that the meridian altitude of the same star taken for three or fout nights running seldom varied a second, and never more than 5” of double altitude a2 xii NOTE RESPECTING THE MAP.

means were thus obtained for deducing the true longitude (nearly) of each stage, from the several points fixed by more detailed observations.

As the best method of doing this, all the occultations and emersions of Jupiter’s satellites visible at places on the route were carefully observed ; .and fortunately a good many very excellent observations of this kind were ob tained at places of principal importance. Finally, the distance between the moon and sun, or a star, was taken as often as circumstances permitted, and particularly at the chief’ stations ; a celestial body on each side of the moon was

preferred to two on the same side, when such could be observed.

The author is very sensible of the great degree of inaccuracy to which all stich observations are liable, .particularly when made during the continuance of a long journey, and consequently subject to a good deal of confusion and ir regularity ; ; and he is aware that mistakes or accidents will often disappoint the observer, particularly when time cannot be afforded for calculating the results upon the spot ; nevertheless where little or almost nothing is known of a country, all of this nature that can be procured becomes valuable, and these observations will doubtless afford results not only useful for the present, but for comparison with such as may hereafter be obtained. With the view of giving them full effect, the precaution was taken of sending those of most importance to be calculated by a scientific person in London, while at the same time all the materials were put into the hands of Mr. Arrowsmith, for the purpose of constructing the map; and the author cannot omit this opportunity of publicly offering his acknowledgments to that gentleman for the laborious and skilful manner in which he has verified and made use of them, adapting them to the best, though often perplexing information extant, regarding these regions.

In this way the observations were calculated by two and sometimes by three different persons ; when any difference occurred a mean was taken, and the result will be found in the tables inserted in the appendix. *

On referring to these, it will be observed that the position: in longitude indicated by them for several places, differs considerably from that adopted in the map, particularly when lunar observations are in question; to those who are acquainted with the process of constructing a map, from various routes and observations, and who know the perplexing results that will sometimes occur, even with such as have been taken under every advantage, there is no need of explaining the reason of such a difference; every one acquainted with the subject knows that from the imperfection of the tables, lunar observations are subject to so much uncertainty, that an error of twenty or

* Many more lunars were taken than those put down in the appendix, but some were not required, and others were found useless from some inaccuracy at the time of'noting down: only those used in the formation of the map have been inserted in the tables.

NOTE RESPECTING THE ‘MAP. xii thirty miles in the longitude they indicate is far from uncommon ; and that even those of the occultations and emersions of Jupiter’s satellites sometimes afford very wide results; when, therefore, they differed greatly from the chronometrical interval and the road distance, it becaine highly proper to make a corresponding allowance for possible errors of observation. As an instance in proof of general accuracy on the great scale, however, it may be mentioned, that of seven very long and important bearings by compass on Demawund, a lofty and snowy peak of the Elburz, near Tehran, viz. from Cashan, Koom, Tehran, Eywanee Key, Saree, Balfroosh, and Amol, no two intersections differed more than ten miles of distance, this, when it is considered that the variation of the compass is by no means accurately ascertained, shews that these places respectively cannot be laid down far from their true positions. The hills, villages and other points were filled in from bearings taken by a good small surveying compass of Schmalchalder.

Besides the positions of Nishapore, and Mushed, that of Herat has been materially alfered, it was laid down by several good routes from Mushed, and it may be remarked that the longitude generally given of that place in the translations of the old and valuable tables of Ulug Beg must be quite incorrect, probably from errors in copying them, for few copies can be had of these tables even in the original Arabic, that can be depended upon as accurate. The position of Balkh, Bockhara and Samarcand seem to be more correctly laid down, probably because they have been more accurately reported, and were nearer to one of that great astronomer’s observatories (at Samarcand). The routes which were procured from Mushed and from Herat to Balkh, appear to confirm this.* It will, however, be observed that no alteration or addition has been made to the map in the countries to the north or east of Khorasan, because the routes and information that were obtained regarding them were not of a nature sufficiently precise to warrant any interference with that which is already before the public.

Little more remains to be said regarding this part of the work; the map and memoirs will speak for themselves; it is to be regretted that the information they contain is not more extensive, and in some places more precise, but when the difficulties are considered, with which a single traveller has to contend in countries so rude and unsettled, the candid reader will rather be inclined to give credit for what has been accomplished, than to censure for what has been omitted.

The last sheets both of the narrative and. appendix of this work had

* A great change has been made in the courses of the rivers, Herirood, Moorghaub, and Tedjen, with that of all the waters which flow from the northern face of the Elburz mountains: It will be observed that these three rivers uniting, form the stream which runs past Merve, but which never reaches the Caspian, being lost in the sands a little below Merve, neither does the Moorghaub as has hitherto been supposed run into the Oxus, ae xiv NOTE RESPECTING THE MAP.

been printed and corrected, before the author learnt, that an account of the Russian embassy to Bockhara, under charge of M, De Negri, had been translated into French, and was about to be published in Paris. By the kindness of a friend he obtained the loan of a copy in sheets, but imperfect, and without the map which should accon:pany it; and he wishes that this advantage could have been enjoyed before his own work had gone to press, as it would have yielded him considerable assistance in describing Mawura-ul-nehr with the several states it contains, and occasioned some modification of the geographical remarks connected with it.

It may, however, be remarked generally that there appears to be a very close coincidence between the account given of the different states of Mawur-a-ul-nehr, by the Russian travellers, and that which the author himself received and has given from the various sources to which he has been indebted ; in fact the Russian observations are very much confined to the town and country of Bockhara alone, and on these they are of course far more minute than any that could be offered in this work ; among other things it may be observed, that the population of the country is estimated at about 2,500,000, but those contained within the walls, only at 8000 families, or about 70,000 persons. All the information which the author possesses on the subject, is calculated to induce the belief of an amount far greater . than this.

With regard to the geographical information it contains, as the author has not seen the map, he cannot, and ought not to make many remarks; he saw no table of latitudes or longitudes in that portion of the work which came under his observation ; these is, it is true, a list of the positions of several places taken from a MSS. copy of Ulug Beg’s tables, but of these the only one said to have been verified by the writer, is the latitude of Bockhara, which is set down at 39° 50’ N. and which he says is correct within two minutes. Nothing is said of its longitude nor is there any mention made of the ineans in possession of the mission, for determining the position of places by astronomical observation.

' One of the chief facts that seem to be placed beyond a doubt by this journey, is, that the Amoo and Seer rivers (the Oxus and Jaxartes) do not form a junction (as was stated to the author of this work), but os both separately fall into- the sea of Arul.

Regarding the origin and course of the Amoo, no new information is given; on the contrary, the writer states that he can offer nothing on these subjects in addition to that which Mr. Elphinstone has said; and he thus dismisses the subject. Neither are any new facts brought forward regarding the branch of this river which has been supposed at one time to have reached | the Caspian sea, at the.bay of Balkan; the opinion that it did once flow in that direction is supported a on the authority of Mouravief, Bekewitch, and a

NOTE RESPECTING THE MAP. xe

Cossak Major, a native of Khyvah, and a man of information, who in speaking on the subject treated it as a thing never doubted or disputed i in the country; the Khyveans believe that the change of the river’s course was occasioned by an earthquake which occurred about 500 years ago,

That some change of this nature may have taken place, is far from impossible, although, if the various accounts we have regarding the country be considered, the period must be very remote: in so loose a soil as the Steppe of Khaurezm, water might easily be forced to change its course, and it is said, that earthquakes do still occasionally occur in these countries. From several observations made by the Russians during this journey, it appears that in the Kirgeesh Steppes through which their road lay, rivers are very liable to quit their bed, and even to disappear totally. The Djan Deria (or river) which, probably, was a branch that detached itself from the Seer, and which, when full, was 200 yards broad, had totally disappeared in the course of ten years from some unknown cause, to the great astonishment of the Kirgeesh who accompanied the mission. The only way in which they could account for this phenomenon, was by supposing that the sands of the Kizzil-Coum (red sand) desert, had gradually overwhelmed it. The Russian author suggests that this Djan Deria may have been the ancient Kizzil Deria, although they observed another dry river bed, forty versts more to the southward.

All the rivers in this quarter seem to have’a tendency to shift their beds, and they either form lakes in the sand which absorbs their waters, or they gradually diminish and disappear entirely. Several small lakes of this kind were seen by the mission; one called the Ak Sak4l, 130 vrests distant from the sea of Arul, formed by the Irghiz and Toorghai, small streams sometimes dry, is particularly mentioned. ‘The Zurafshan, or Kohick, which. flows past Samarcand and Bockhara, in the same manner, never reachgs the Amoo, but loses itself in a lake called Kara Coul.

Little is said of the sea of Arul; it would seem that though the mission passed near it, they did not see much of it, the author of the account is of opinion that a great and rapid diminution has taken place in the volume of its waters, which it would appear, extended at one time to the feet of certain hills, between which and the shore, there is now a great distance.

The copy of the Russian work which the author saw was too imperfect to admit of any judgment being formed of its full value, but it contains a good description of the remote, barren and almost boundless steppes which surround, and stretch to the northward of Bockhara, with an account, in some detail, of the city and oasis of Bockhara itself; all of which in the dearth of authentic information relating to these subjects will doubtless prove interesting to those who are curious regarding them.

Chapter I

Intended plan of the journey. The Author accepts the offer of Dr. Jukes, the Envoy to Persia, to accompany him. Leave Bombay in the ship Francis Warden, the 14th May, 1821. Contrast of Asiatic with European vessels, crews, passengers, &c. Contrary winds lose us the direct passage. Calms. Excessive heat. Agale. Alarm of fire. Composure of a Parsee. 5th July make Raus-ul-Hudd. Dreary iron-bound coast. A baffling calm drifts the ship towards the rocks. Relieved by the superior energy of Arab seamen. 8th July enter Muscat cove. Description of the harbour, town, fortifications, population, costume. Productions, markets, currency. Climate of Omaun. The Imaum. History of his family. His resources, revenues. Trade. Expences. Navy and shipping. Tenure of land. Date trees. Live stock. Camels. Asses. Manufactures. Exports. Imports. Visited and welcomed by the Imaum’s minister. The Envoy visits the Imaum. Reception. Delivers a present from the Governor-General, The Imaum surprizes us with a frank visit on board. The epidemic cholera morbus had visited Muscat, but had ceased after great ravages. The Author visits the hot springs at Abooshehr. The road and vicinity, and the people described. State of the thermometer. Return to Muscat. - - - - Page 1

CHAPTER I.

Leave Muscat, 14th July. Pass Cape Bombareek. The ship takes ground in the mud. Gets afloat with the loss of an anchor and cable. Reach Kislimee road 16th July. Find the garrison in great sickness and distress. Visit the cantonments. Their state and that of the island. The roadstead, population, climate, products, winds. Present misery, former prosperity. Cholera morbus. Visit Ormuz 20th. Historic notes regarding Ormuz and Gomberoon. Present state of Bunder Abbassee. Of Ormuz. Miserable contrast with their former supposed wealth and splendor. Natural products of Ormuz. Its garrison. Arms of the people. Their persons and features. Leave Kishmee, 22d July ; reach Bushire the 4th of August. - - - - - - - - - 28

CHAPTER Iil.

Bushire and the Dushtistan. Prepare for our Journey to Tehran. Arrival in the roads of His Majesty’s ship Liverpool. Dreadful sufferings of her officers and crew from heat on their passage from Muscat. ‘ Deplorable accounts of the garrison at Kishmee. Cholera appears at Bushire, about the 20th August. Removal from the town to tents, onthe 23d. Epidemic increases. A case occurs in camp. Arab treatment of the disorder. It spreads into the interior, and great alarm prevails. Our engaged muleteers refuse to proceed. Doubts regarding the advance of the Mission. Comparative trial of the European and Arab treatment of cholera. Mehmandar arrives, September Ist. The epidemic increases. Captain Wright, of the Honourable Company’s cruizer Vestal, dies of it. Mules arrive. Disease reported to

b xviii CONTENTS.

decrease.. Disease attributed to the influence of the star Canopus. Festival of Eed-ul- Kourbaun. Superstitious delay as to marching. Disease ceases. Estimate of mortality in Bushire and Bussora. — - - - - >. - - Page 54

CHAPTER IV,

The Mission leaves Bushire. Persian mode of travelling, equipment, and costume. Aspect of the Dushtistan, sterile and dreary. Rapacity of the officers of government. Instances. Modes of assessing produce of land. Tax on irrigation. Temperature of a spring at Dalakee. Value of date gardens. State of roads. Ascent of Cothul-e-Mulloo. Cothul-e-Kumauridge. Change of temperature. Kauzeroon. Cannauts. Products of the valley. Horses. Wrestlers. Bird-catchers. Mahmood Sunnie robbers. Shahpore. Intelligence of cholera at Sheerauz to an alarming and fatal extent. The Prince’s harem affected. Several ladies die. The Prince’s mother dies. He flies from the city. His ministers and chief officers follow the example. The city is deserted. The Mission becomes stationary again. Muleteers and servants unwilling to proceed. The Author, on full deliberation, determines to attempt proceeding alone. Persian and Indian servants compared. The Author leaves the Mission and sets out. Doochter and Peerazun passes. Sheerauz wine and vineyards. Meet parties