Travels and adventures in the Persian Provinces on the Southern Banks of the Caspian Sea. With an appendix containing short notices on the geology and commerce of Persia

Preface

. 1 he following work is chiefly the narrative of a journey through some parts of Persia very little known. It may be considered as a continuation of Travels formerly published by the Author, with this difference, that the present Volume consists more of personal adventures, and dwells less on statistical and historical details. In the Appendix will be found a geological sketch, which, though not so full as could be wished, may interest readers who are aware how very little is known respecting the physical structure of those distant countries. A few particulars are also added in the form of Tables, with ob servations on each, relating to the commercial resources of Persia. The habitual jealousy and distrust of Asiatics, render it difficult for a traveller to procure authentic information on any topic ; but the Author has reason to believe that reliance may be placed on the statements alluded to.

Many details are given in the course of this narrative, which at first sight may seem insignificant ; but it has been thought right to be as circumstantial as possible, in describing the manners of a people so seldom exposed to the inspection of European eyes. A Recently published by the same Author, In 1 Volume 4to. with a New Map by Arrowsmith, Price 31. 3s. boards. NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY INTO KHORASAN; Including some Account of the Countries to the north-east of Persia ; with remarks upon the National Character, Government, and Resources of that Kingdom. " Mr. Fraser, by his intelligence and enterprise, has made valuable additions to our knowledge of Persia, and gained a right to rank as the very first to whom we owe a distinct view of any considerable part of Persian Khorasan." Edinburgh Review, No. 85. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Sketches of the Author's previous travels, and his arrival at Astrabad. His party described. Mustapha Khan the governor. Visit of an Astrabad pedant. The dead body of a noble captured by the Toorkomans. Its value to the captors. Alarm of fire. City of Astrabad described. Its reputed origin. Appearance. Streets. Bazars. Palace. Face of the country around. - Page 1

Chapter II

Departure from Astrabad. Shall Abbas's Causeway. Reach the village of Koordmuhuleh. March to Nokundeh. Scenery and village described. Garlic used in great quantities in Mazunderan. March to Ashruff. Description of the palace according to Hanway. Its present condition described. Anecdote of the king. Other works of Shah Abbas in this vicinity. The bay of Astrabad described. - 12

Chapter III

Leave Ashruff. Strange melancholy and illness of Meerza-Abdool-Rezak. Causes explained. Bigotry of the Astrabadees. Their ignorant superstition exemplified. Nica. Condition of the soldiers furnished by the different districts. Conversation with an old Moollah. Bridge of Nica. Bridge over the Thedjin. Reach Saree. Lodged with Ramzaun Beg. His character and house described. Visit to prince Mahomed Koolee Meerza. - - - - - - -27

Chapter IV

The city of Saree described. Fortifications. Streets. Bazars. Mosque and old sycamore. Palace. Tower of Selm-e-Toor, tradition regarding it. Other antiquities in Saree. Water cisterns. Method of cooling water. Gardens, population. Revenues of Mazunderan. Troops supplied by the province. Climate. Diseases. Disposition of its inhabitants. Their appearance. Dress. - - - 39

Chapter V

Continued residence at Saree. Description of Ramzaun Beg's house and furniture. Anecdotes regarding him. His wife. His son. His Mahomedan prejudices overcome. Part of his history. Presents of the author to the prince. Called on to visit the prince's sick sister. Her case. The interview. Prince examines the author's drawings and instruments. Shows some of his own curiosities. Covets a spying glass of the author's. Express returns from Tehran. Dismission of Meerza-Abdool-Rezak. VI CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

Visit to Furrahbad, where Shah Abbas died. Road. Situation of Furrahbad. Description of the ruins. Fishery on the Thedjin river by Stephen an Armenian. Return to Saree. Receive a Khelut from the prince. Audience of leave. Take leave of Ramzaun Beg. ------ Page 70

Chapter VII

Leave Saree. Road to Balfroosh. Reach that town. Lodgings there. Account of Balfroosh. Population. Bazars. Caravanserays. Medressas. Province of Mazunderan. Productions. Inhabitants. Food. Diseases. Gardens around Balfroosh Baugh-e-Shah. Reservoirs for irrigation. Courteousness of the inhabitants of Balfroosh contrasted with those of Saree. Zein-ul-Abudeen, a Dervish coppersmith, visits the author. Another Dervish. His mysterious conduct explained. His character. Author visits him and Zein-ul-Abudeen. Conversation with these persons. Story of certain Moollahs and an European ambassador. Prepare to set out for Resht. Muleteers of Balfroosh. - - - - - - 80

Chapter VIII

Leave Balfroosh. Roads of Mazunderan. Reach Amol. Bri dge over the Herauz Tomb of Seyed Quwam-u-deen. Other tombs. Hill-fort of Rustumdaur. City of Amol. Population. Revenue. Poorness of its markets. Visit to the young prince. His character. Conduct of Mehmandar. Leave Amol. Reach the sea beach. Abdool Malekees. Izzutdeh. Alleeabad. Character of the shores of the Caspian sea. Fish. Otters. Sea-fowl. Cross a dangerous river. Towar. Forest-trees. Abegerm. Roode-Sir. Reach Lahajan. Its extent. Rice cultivation. Silk. Suffeedrood river. Method of crossing it. Reach Resht. Reception there. - - - 100

Chapter IX

Circumstances attending the author's reception at Resht. Reasons explained. Lodged with Hadjee Meer Ismael. Interview with the hadjee. Unexpected visit. Meerza Reza. His account of the court and the princes of Resht. Author visits the younger prince. His appearance and demeanor. Bazar of Resht. Accounts of the elder prince. Anecdotes of both brothers. - - - - - - 1 26

Chapter X

Short account of Gheelan. Extent. Aspect of the country. Character of the Gheelanees. Hilly parts of Gheelan and their inhabitants. Collection of Revenue. District of Talish. Mustapha Khan, and other chiefs of Talish. Character of the tribes. 140

Chapter XI

The Ramazan, or Mahometan lent. Strictness of a zealous Mussulman. Methods of evading its severity. Author's visit to Enzellee. Miserable roads. Peeree bazar. Passage across the lake to Enzellee. Reception by the governor at that place. Indifferent lodgings. Remonstrances. Apologies. Bay and harbour of Enzellee. Village. Vessels built there. Return to Resht. - - -■ - 159

Chapter XII

Accident to a boy. Cure undertaken by the author. Preparations for leaving Resht. Delays and disappointments. Civilities received from several individuals. Further delays. Grateful kindness of certain persons. Author sets out to leave Resht. Is de- CONTENTS. VII tained by the prince's orders. Assigned reasons of his detention. Remonstrances ineffectual. Speculation. Projects. - Page 173

Chapter XIII

Trait of the young prince. Visit from the prince's uncle. Author's negociations for release. Speculations on the possibility of escape. Consults Hadjee Moolla Baba on the subject. Attempts to procure two of his own horses. Fails. Further consultations. Other ineffectual projects and negociations. Obstacles in the way of escape. - - - -- - -188

Chapter XIV

Diseases of Gheelan. Various deportment of sick persons applying to the author for advice. Report of the prince's approach, and consequent seizure of horses for his service. A man wounded and brought to be cured by the author. Various reports of the prince's progress. Further fruitless attempts at escaping. - - 200

Chapter XV

News from Tehran, and reports of the prince's movements. Another scheme for escaping proposed. Preparations. The author and his servant succeed in quitting Resht. Their progress. Reach a village. Are entertained by a Moollah for the night. 213

CHAPTER XVL

The journey resumed. Reach Tooloo bazar. Progress to Kishmah. Escapes and adventures. Teregoram bazar. Peer-e-Jallee Imaumzadeh. Reach a village. Entertainment there. Resume the road towards Azerbijan. Ascend the mountains by a difficult pass. Cross them and enter Azerbijan. Reach the village of Dees. 223

Chapter XVII

The author and his servant disagreeably awakened. Arrested as a Russian spy. His treatment. Hurried back to Gheeleewan— and to the yeilak of Mahomed Khan Massaul. Treatment there. Forced to descend the mountain. Circumstances that led to the author's recapture. Reach a village at the foot of the mountain. Gholaums described. Conducted back to Resht. Journey described. Interview with the minister at Resht. Reach once more the house of Hadjee Meer Ismael. - 237

Chapter XVIII

The eide. Further particulars respecting, and consequences of, the author's recapture. The prince arrives at Resht. A man badly wounded. Brought to the author. Meerza Tuckee the minister. Author visits him — and relates his story, which is favourably heard. Negociations for an interview with the prince. The interview. Is promised redress. The goods stolen by the Talish highlanders restored to the author. He receives the prince's present, and is dismissed. Takes leave of Meerza Reza, and Hadjee Moolla Baba. - - - - - - 262

Chapter XIX

The author quits Resht and arrives at Enzellee. Disappointed of mules at that place, is forced to send his baggage by boat. Reaches Shufi'eerood. Ailee Koolee Khan and his village. Calaserai. Difficulty of procuring baggage cattle. Ascend the mountains. Balla Khan's residence. Reach Ardebeel. Reception from Mahomed Khan Kadjer the governor. - CONTENTS.

Chapter XX

Tombs of Sheikh Suffee, and Shah Ismael described. Climate of Ardebeel. Baggage arrives. Author leaves Ardebeel. Journey to Tabreez. Arrival there. Page 296

Chapter XXI

The author finds Mr. Willock and Dr. Macneil had left Persia. Causes of that measure. Application to the Caimookan regarding the author's treatment at Resht. His conduct on the occasion. Character of the Caimookan. Mr. Martin the missionary. Military establishment of prince Abbas Meerza. Character of that prince. War with Turkey. Causes. Progress of the war. Epidemic cholera. Attacks the prince's camp. Its progress. ------- 303

Chapter XXII

Death of the Caimookan. Story of Mushedee Ailee Akbar. Climate of Tabreez. Murder of a Persian. Price of blood. Revenge of au old woman. Expedition to the lake Shahee. Lake described. Districts around it. Ooroomia. Selmast. A peculiar and savage race of Christians. Their habits. Army of Alia Yar Khan. Seized with cholera. The Author returns to Tabreez. Quits it to return to Europe. 318 Al'PENDIX 331 ERRATA. Page 5. line 22. for " Marunderan," read " Mazunderan." 17. line 4. for " Nohundeh," read " Nokudeh." 25. line 8. for " prophets," read " prophet." 37. line 20. for " thirty-five and forty," read "thirty-five or forty." 93. line 7. from bottom, delete "easy." 96. line 5. add a period after " ranks." 107. line 18. after " The mehmandar," insert " who." 153. the paragraph beginning, " The terms of money lending," should come after that ending, " within its walls." 136. line 5. for " Khorazan," read " Khorasan." 215. line 17. for " place," read " plan." 380. line 7. from bottom, for " SufFeerood," read " Suffeedrood." 286. line 4. from bottom, for " I left him," read " I left the Ketkhodah." 318. line 4. for " Solmart," read " Selmast." 334. line 8. from bottom, for " drown," read " brown." TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES ON THE SHORES OF THE CASPIAN SEA.