The fruit grower's instructor : or, A practical treatise on the cultivation and treatment of fruit trees: containing a description of all the best fruits now in cultivation, a full description of the apple fly ... The whole written from practice

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Preface

Ir is necessary to prefix a Preface to a work of this nature, to give the reader such information as may be useful: during its perusal; to explain and point out the nature and arrangements of its principal parts, likewise to duly prepare him for what the work contains, which is of great advantage both to the author and himself.

It often happens in works of this sort, as well as “in many others, that quotations are made from other authors in order to sanction and gloss over their own productions, sometimes of praise, sometimes of ridicule, just as it may suit the passage or parts alluded to; but by cautioning my readers against inexperienced authors, I do not intend throughout this publication to call any one name in -par- : a 2 iV PREFACE.

ticular in question, as, perhaps, much which has been written has been to the best of the writer's judgment. But when a person is about to become a fruit grower, (particularly on an extensive scale,) he ought to be cautious how he follows the advice of inexperienced or theoretical persons; for I have read many works professing to treat on horticultural and gardening subjects, which are more calculated to amuse than enlighten: there is a difference between rules of treatment by which certain effects can be insured, and hereditary customs | (if I may use the term) by which advantages may accidentally follow ; yet the sticklers, nay almost worshippers, of these latter, will-not hesitate to attack the experienced man, because, in one instance out of a hundred, he has happened to succeed contrary to the advice of the former.

But the treatment of fruit trees altogether requires tong practice and close application ; and I intend in this small treatise to explain so clearly the necessary treatment of fruit

PREFACE. Vv trees (particularly apples,) that every one who is able to read it may understand.—I might fill three volumes twice the size, and not convey more practical information to the reader than will be found in this small book ; and those who follow its instructions need not fear success, as I do not intend to speak of any thing which I have not fully proved. This work will be confined to that profitable and beautiful part of horticulture, the most leading fruits cultivated in this country ; among which I shall treat largely on apples, they being of all fruits the most profitable and useful, and I may add the most beautiful, for the bloom in Spring is extremely handsome, and the fruit when ripe the same. Indeed it may be denominated with strict propriety, a truly Britesh fruit, being the most staple commodity of the kind grown in England; and unlike any other, may be obtained in perfection during any month throughout the year.

It is impossible to write a book that will apply to every particular case, and as this is not ini PREFACE;

tended as an introduction to Botany, or @ Gardener's Dictionary, I think it would be wrong to confuse the reader with more than. is stated in the title page. I am certain there s great room-for improvement in England, were the soils and situations properly studied, after the following treatise. I should not speak so confidently, were it not from a lone series of practice; for when I say there are thousands, and tens of thousands of apple and other trees, in different parts of England, which have been grafted and managed by my own hands till they have been sent to their respective places of destination, -together with the opportunity of fruiting and proving all the best sorts now in cultivation—the confidence in attempting this work will not be surprising ; and likewise the discovery of the remedy for the canker, which I have made my study for some years, and which I am sorry to say, I have no doubt affects, more or less, above one half of the trees which have gone from me as well as others ;

and the whole of which were threatened with

PREFACE: Vi a premature end, had not the real cause and remedy been discovered.

In my history of the American Blight and the remedy, f shall confine myself to what I can speak to with certainty, and itis absolutely necessary the strongest measures should be resorted to, to prevent the threatened destruction of our apple trees. For some years past, the markets of the metropolis have been supphed from Christmas till Summer, chiefly with foreign apples; a season, when the price would be of such great service’ to our own farmers; the reason of which proceeds from a conviction, that when the trees ought to be coming into bearing, to afford a remuneration fot the trouble and expense consequent. in rearing them, they are beginning to receive the canker, and notwithstanding a number of years may elapse before they become completely affected, still the fruit they produce, neither Keeping so well, nor being so fine in flavour and appearance, as that of those which are Healthy, render them little better than an

Vili PREFACE. incumbrance to the ground; this it is which prevents a perseverance in their cultivation.

Those who have had an opportunity of witnessing the above fact, which is now unfortunately but too generally felt, and which deters them from planting, I have the pleasure to state from experience, need no longer let it influence them; for, by following the rules laid down in this publication they may rely on success. It may be said, to speak so confidently argues too much self-opinion; but I think when a man is really in possession of a fact, to assume ignorance «is equally contemptible, with him who is too opiniated ; both are despicable in the eyes of men of sound understanding-; itis not because I have written what my practice and judgment have furnished me with, that I wish every one to follow it; on the contrary, knowing there are more methods than one, though not equally effective, I should wish those who are content with the success attendant on their own, most decidedly to follow it, until by re-

PREFACE. 1X peated failures they may be induced to try mine, and finding its infallibility become converted ; and as truth and independence ought to guide the pen of every historical author, | shall bear that in mind throughout this pubhi-

‘cation.

In addition to the treatise on apples, budding, and the various modes of grafting trees, with interesting observations thereon, I have given a list of all the leading fruits’now in cultivation, both alphabetical and explanatory, which will be found very useful to those who are unacquainted with them. Also a description of several other insects, besides the apple fly, which are considered injurious to fruit trees.

The work is divided into chapters and paragraphs, each paragraph beginning and ending with the subject it relates to, without being confused with extraneous matter; and as the index refers to paragraphs as well as pages, x PREFACE.

any subject may be found with the greatest facility.

The Canker which first drew my pen to write these sheets, 1 hope will meet with its due share of attention, as the salvation of our apple trees is not only of individual consideration, but of great national importance.

Index

Page, ON the Propagation of Apples ; Pees Quartering Stocks. ; : 14 Grafting : ; 6 Tying Grafts : ! HORE Management of Grafts : : ‘Se Snagging of Grafts ; . +14

Pruning and } Management while in the eth Pe cule $55 Observations before the general cultivation of Apples 26

Cultivation of Dwarf Apples : we el Directions for planting in bad soil . 21, Oe Cultivation of Standard Apples eh 32.5 Pruning of Dwarf Apples. ; sno Pruning of Standard Apples : ak Pruning of Trained Apples, with Obsetvatioit Rast 2 Budding of Apples . ; ‘ 4, Oe Description of Budding [te HES is Untying Buds : ‘ . 36 Heading down Stocks which are Budded ’ . 36 Tying and Suckering of Buds eerie Wace f Observations before the Explanatory List of Sorts . 37 |_--" EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. Ribston Pippin : : . ~ | 38 Court of Wyck Pippin : ; 2°88 Scarlet Nonpareil - ; : . 38 Old Nonpareil a ARN 6 P » 139 Downton Pippin ‘ : , 1989 Sykehouse Apple - ° ~ 39

Yellow Ingestry Pippin ‘ : . 39

Paragrap’.

INDEX.

Page. Paragrapls..

Hick’s Fancy . i We me 28 Old Golden Pippin : . . 40 29 Franklin’s Golden Pippin ; ° » 40 30° Early Oslin Apple " : - 40 31 Scarlet Pearmain ; : . 41 32 Royal Pearmain : : - 41 33 Margaret Apple : ae ; . 41 34 Duchess of Oldenburgh : ie . 41 35 Golden Reinet : ° : .. ae 36 King of the Pippins : ‘ - AZ Tree Wellington Apple : : - 42 38 Kerry Pippin 7 . ing - 42 39 Wheeler’s Russet : - . 42 40 Powell's Russet ‘ ‘ re >- 4] Devonshire Whitesour : . « 43 42 Margell : : . . 43 43 Cristy’s Pippin crs : : - 43 44 Beauty of Kent : : : . 43 45.

Emperor Alexander Kio’ ; . 43 46 Keswick Codlin : : . 44 47 Luccomb’s Seeding ‘ ‘ . 44 48 Northern Greening . , . 44 49 Scarlet Admirable ; 5 . 44 50 Royal Russet : : : . 40 51 Cockagee : : PRs - 40 52 Shepherd's Newington ii : ido 53 Striped Holland Pippin , ; . 45 54 Dutch Codlin ‘ ; + ee 55 Kentish Codlin ; : é . 45 56 Norfolk Storing . ; i - 40 57 Norfolk Beefin : : : . 46 58 _ Lemon Pippin ; " ‘ » 46 59 Loan’s Pearmain : : 3 - 46 60 Hawthorne Dean . : ; . 46 61 Hertfordshire Pearmain af, : ee Viner Kirke’s Lord Nelson : ‘ peer: 63

French Crab s , » 48 64

INDiX.

‘Nonsuch . , 5 : Norfolk Paradise , : Woodstock Pippin ° . .

Mank’s Codlin ; ‘ ‘ Pile’s Russet : .

Braddick’s Nonpareil : .

Observations pre a 3 ‘

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES NOW GENERALLY

CULTIVATED Cider Apples ° : Apples recommended for small anion °

The mode of producing new kinds of Apples , Observations on the different modes of Grafting

Index To The Chapter On Canker

Introduction ‘ .

The manner the Insect Gperates on the Trees ona in the Nursery :

Description of the first Bates of the Intect First discovery of the Insect in another stage Particular Observations made in 1822, of the Insect which causes the Canker becoming winged, &c. First discovery of the Insect laying its eggs, with otherremarks . ; ’

Further description of the mec rs in its perfect state ‘ . .

Where the Flies take shatters f in wet weather ‘ The manner the Insect operates on the Roots in Winter : ° °

Description of the first change of that very small Insect alluded to in Paragraph the third, which after causes the Canker, and becomes the large Fly , “ : “

Second change of the Insect. : ;

Page.

48 48 48 49 49 49 50

64 65 67 68 68 71

74 74

72 73 74 75 76

77 78 79 80 81

82:45

83 84

86 87

INDEX.

Page.

The third change of the Insect, and its becoming winged : ‘ Further Observations ‘ ae .

Author’s Remarks respecting other Insects

Description of the small Brown Chafer, which is so injuricus in Nurseries, &c.

Remarks on Butterflies . ep FR ‘

Description of the Silk Worm ‘

The reason for introducing the above Insects

The reason for bringing out the Composition to pre-- vent the Canker : : : The London Agents for the Sale of the Composition Form of Label pasted on each Packet . : Caution not to use improper things ; The difficulty in convincing, &c. ‘ ‘

Some useful Remarks :

To prevent the Canker in the Main Stem, &e. the most necessary : F

How to apply the Conia to Young Standard Trees

How to apply the Cothnoauon to ola Standard Cankered Trees . .

Trees past recovery fond to be destroyed

How toapply the Chelsea Apple Powder to Dwarf

Trees, with further proofs of its utility ; What may relate to Trained Trees, &c. Observations . : : ‘

INDEX TO CHAPTER Ill

PEARS. : Introductory Remarks 5 .

Explanatory List of Pears ‘ ; Alphabetical List of Pears” ; is PLUMS.

Remarks a? ‘ co Explanatory List of Plums —. a

Alphabetical List of Plums - ; ‘

Pata :rapli.

83. 89 90

95 96 97 98 99 100

‘101 102.

103. 104

105~ 106... 107

108 109 110 en Te

112 113°

INDEX;

Page: Paragtapli.

Useful Observations : rh est pyetovae Explanatory List of Cherries : : 22109 115 Alphabetical List of Cherries ‘ . 12 116

APRICOTS.

Remarks on the Stocks for Budding, &c. . 112 117

Explanatory List of Apricots : Pang is 118 Alphabetical List of Apricots : . 1165 119

| PEACHES. ;

Remarks . ‘ ; 11 120 Explanatory List of Peaches . ; ey 121 Alphabetical List of Peaches . » 121 122

NECTARINES.

Explanatory List of Nectarines : S122 ye eo Alphabetical List of Nectarines ° . 124 124 GRAPE VINES, Remarks : : ; . 124 125 Explanatory List of Grane . ‘ » 125 126 Alphabetical List of Grapes ° » 180° 127 FIGS. é Explanatory List of Figs ‘ : . 131 128 Alphabetical List of Figs ‘ ‘ . 133 129 Of Chestnuts 133 >.> 130 Of Barberries : ; : Beh sober bo 1 Of Quinces f : a . 133 132 Of Walnuts : : : . 134 133 Of Filberts and Nuts : ; . 134 134 Of Raspberries ; ° ‘ . 134 135 Of Strawberries. ‘ ‘ » 134 136 Of Currants ; ° : . . 135 137

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THE

FRUIT GROWER’S INSTRUCTOR.

Chapter. I

On the Propagation, Cultivation, Pruning, and General _ Management of Apple Trees.

ON THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES.

Par. 1.—The propagation of apples is, of all other fruits, the most easy; and yet no tree requires more care and good management in its general cultivation.

The reason why it is more easy is, because the grafts are, if put on in the proper season, and made to touch the bark, almost sure to grow; but aithough so easy it is generally attended with more dangerous consequences than any other, tree, if the grafting part is

B

2 THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES.

not properly attended to, which will be hereafter explained.

The general method of propagating apples, is by grafting on the Crab stock, which stock should be raised from the seed of the true Crab; the seed may be procured from those who make verjuice ; when a large quantity is wanted it is the best way, as you can generally depend on having seed from the true Crab ; but this is not the case with many stock growers, for they often sow the seed from apples made into cider, which will produce, various sorts of stocks; some will grow large and vigorous, others of so weak a nature that they will scarcely ever make a standard tree.

The best method is to wash the seed from the pulp, and let it get rather dry, for its own pulp is very apt to rot the pip; mix it with some light mould or sand, not too damp; then, the following February, or beginning of March, as the weather may suit, you may sow your seed in beds or in drills; but beds are best, for when you have taken your mould out the proper depth, which should be about an inch, you will be able, when you have sown your seed, to cover it all over alike, which you cannot do so correctly in drills ; the beds should be

THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES. 3 about four feet wide, leaving two feet between each bed for a path, to be able to walk between ‘them to weed and keep the beds clean, as that is most material to all young seedlings; you take the mould out about one inch deep with the spade, and put it into the path or alley; _ make the bottom of your beds perfectly level, then sow your seed (just as it is mixt, with mould or sand) as near as you can judge about one inch apart all over the ground, which will be much better for the plants than if you sow them thicker, for Crabs when drawn up very weak, seldom do much good after: then take the mould you have thrown into the alleys, and sift it over them about one inch; but if the ground is strong and binding, about three quarters of an inch will be quite enough.

The seed will then remain in the ground till the following spring, before you get your ge. neral crop, although some few may come up the first year; during that period, the beds - should be kept carefully clean, while the weeds are in a young state, in order that the mould may not be disturbed so deep as the seed.

The following Autumn you may take up thé seedlings, having had one summer’s growth, and transplant them into beds, putting them about

B2

4 QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING.

one foot row from row, and about three inches _ apart inthe rows: let them stand two years, then they will be strong to plant out into quarters for grafting, or if the plants are not too close together in the seed beds, they may stand two years, and the greater part will be then strong enough to plant out for grafting, without being first bedded.

QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING.

Par. 2.—Where you quarter or plant out Crab stocks, being intended to grow strong to throw up standard trees, it is necessary to select a piece of deep loamy soil, which should be well trenched two spades deep ; this should be done as early in autumn as you can, in order to get your stocks planted early in November, then they will immediately draw root, which will make a considerable deal of difference in their growth the following summer, for if you do not get them planted till latein December, the coldness of the ground, even if the weather is mild, will prevent them drawing fresh root, and they would be better to remain in the beds till February, when they would soon begin to vegetate, for when the stocks remain in the ground for some months, after being removed and all vegetation ceased,

QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING. 5 the small fibres are very apt to rot, and the large roots get in a mildewed stagnant state, which I have proved has been so far injurious to the plants, that it often takes them the following summer to recover .themselyes, while those planted in February will make a good growth.

If your ground is very poor it will be necessary to give it plenty of good rotten manure, to make them throw up standards quick.

_ The distance for quartering out the stocks for grafting should be two feet six inches row from row, and about ten inches apart in the rows. Some will give two feet ten inches, or three feet row from row, but that I think unnecessary, as two feet six inches is quite sufficient to get between them for all purposes, and quite room enough for them to grow so long as they ought to remain in the nursery.

When you plant your stocks you should prune the roots, cutting the strong roots shorter, and take away as many of the super- _fluous fibres as you can; trim up the stock clean at the bottom, but be sure to leave buds to break from the top, then cut off the top, leaving the stock long enough to be about sixteen or eighteen inches out of the ground when planted ; the stocks should remain two years, and then they will be in good order for grafting, during which time they will require very little care or trouble, more than digging between and keeping them clean from weeds.

GRAFTING.

Par. 3.— We next come to grafting, which is one of the most important branches in propagation, particularly of the apple, it being so subject to the canker, and so apt to be injured where the graft is: put on the stock; which, if it once takes place, is almost sure to destroy the tree. This will be fully explained under the head of Canker.

Grafting appears to those who may see others performing it very easy, like looking at another who may write a fine hand, but it requires much practice to become a clean grafter, as well as it does to write a clean hand; at the same time I shall endeavour so fully to explain it, that it may be of considerable advantage to the pupil.

There are various ways to graft, but the best and usual method for stocks, planted as before described, is what is commonly called whip-grafting, for which we must first make the necessary preparation. In the first place, some strong loam, such as will stick well together, should be dug and laid in a heap, if in the dry the better; for if you can run it through a sieve you will free it from all stones or lumps, which will make it mix the better.

In the next place there must be provided a sufficient quantity of horse-dung (I mean the clean droppings from the horse quite clear from straw, for it is the best thing to keep the clay from cracking,) to allow about one-fourth to three-fourths of loam; this must be mixed well together, to make it smooth and fine enough for plastering, and sufficiently moist to be able to mix it about easy in the hands, but not too moist, otherwise it would slip off the stock, but that would soon be found out by those who are using it.

The next thing to prepare is some bass or matting for tying on the grafts. For stocks of the age and size before-mentioned, it should be cut about one foot and a half long, and tied in small bundles ready for the man who is to tie the grafts.

Now having all ready we must watch our season for grafting: where there is a great quantity to do it is necessary to begin as early as the season will admit; and as apples are not so early as cherries, plums, or pears, (where you have these to graft) your apples must wait till they are done; but if you can begin your apples about the middle of March, and finish by the second week in April, it is very rare that it is too late for apples, for I have grafted apples with success in the last week in April, when the stocks have been out in full leaf; but this is a dangerous practice, for if the weather sets in very dry, it will so dry up the juices of the stocks that many cannot be expected to grow, and what do will be very weak, and scarcely ever make handsome standards.

In the next place must be got ready. the scions or cuttings, which should be of one

year’s growth, and as firm and strong as you ~ can get them, so that they are not too large for the stocks ; for although weak cuttings will grow they will not make near the growth as the strong cuttings, neither will they bear a dry harsh spring so well. Now we proceed to grafting. In the first place you cut down your stocks within four or five inches from the ground, which in large nurseries is done by a man before the grafter.- After the grafter a

GRAFTING. g man to tie the grafts, then follow two boys, the one to what is commonly called dabb, or put the clay on the graft, and the other to close the clay; in this way you may get through much grafting, if the grafter be quick. The grafter should have the scions cut in lengths about six inches long, and carry -them in his apron; then taking out one at a time he should hold “it firm in his left hand, then take a slice off the end of the scion, rather more than an inch long, and be careful not to let your knife cut too deep to get into the pith till it gets near the end of the slice—this is one reason why I recommend so short a slice, for in taking a long slice you are apt to cut along the pith, which is very injurious, although it may not signify so much with apples it is a bad practice to follow, for in grafting cherries you will scarcely ever have a crop, or what is commonly called a good hit. Having made your slice in the manner described, you then cut a tongue or slit, which should be about a quarter of an inch long, (this is another material thing to pay attention to,) commencing about a quarter of an inch below the top of the slice; let your knife go in not more than half-way through the scion, for if you cut too far in when your erafts are united, you must be at the unnecessary trouble of shouldering or tying them again BS round the top, otherwise those cut too far through when they have grown any size, the winds will blow down, even after tying them a second time.

Having got your scion ready you take a slice of your stock the length of the slice on your scion, make a tongue or slit about the same length as that on your scion, beginning nearly at the top of the slice, letting your knife slope gradually into the stock. If your stock is much larger than your scion do not make your slice too deep into the stock, in order that. your scion may touch the inner rind of the stock on both sides as well as the bottom, but be careful to let your scion just touch the bottom of the slice on the stock, as that is necessary both for its making a good growth the first summer, and likewise for its healing well over, for the graft derives by far more nourishment from the bottom than the side, but be sure do not let your scion go below the slice on the stock. By this practice you put on the graft in the centre of the stock, which is much better than putting it on the side, and by this practice you need not tie your pratt a second time.

TYING OF GRAFTS. a 1]

TYING OF GRAFTS.

Par. 4.—Having given the necessary instructions for the grafter, tying of grafts is the next consideration: the tying is done by a man who follows the grafter; he must have his bass or matting cut in lengths about one foot and a half long, or if the stocks are large, it may be longer ; this tied in small bundles should be taken one at a time, (after dipping it in water to make it tough) and tied in the string of the apron, putting one end in the apron to keep it moist; the bass should be strong, otherwise should it break if the grafter ~ be quick, he will have to wait for the man who ties: the man being now prepared, he should begin to tie about four stocks behind the grafter, and keep about that distance, _ which will give the grafter room.

The bass should be placed firm against the bottem of the scion, and not let slip, which will prevent the scion from being put out of its _place; this is very necessary to be observed, for if the scion is removed by the tying, it is useless for the grafter to be. particular about putting the grafts on; he should then tie it tight round till it comes to the top of the _ stock, where it should have a tight hitch to

12 TYING OF GRAFTS.

fasten off, then cut the end of the bass close off, for if the end is left an inch long, which I have often seen, it prevents the clay from being properly closed, consequently admitting the air to the graft, which often proves fatal.

The next thing is putting on the clay, commonly called dabbing: this is done by a boy who follows the man who ties ; having put his clay into something to carry it with him, he must take a small piece of clay sufficient to cover the whole of the incision, and to come about half an inch above the top of the stock, in order that it may hang well on the shoulder ; this he should roll up in his hands nearly in the form of an egg, then make a hollow in one side of' it with one hand, sufficiently deep, that when it is put on the stock, it will enclose it all round alike. ,