Saskatchewan and the Rocky mountains

Front matter

SASKATCHEWAN

AND

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

Preface

The foundation of this book is a very carefully-kept journal, for the most part noted down evening by evening over the camp fire, and none of it written, save a sentence or two, at intervals of more than a few days after the occurrences it relates ; so that it has at least the merit of being a true reflex of the thoughts and feelings of the time, as well as a faithful narrative of incident, conversation, and adventure.

In submitting such a journal to the public, three principal methods of dealing with it at once suggest themselves : — First, To print it as it stands, without omission or change ; Second, To preserve its form, but amend and amplify its diction ; Third, To recast the whole, and frame it into a continuous story. The first of these methods is almost impossible where the diary has not been originally designed for publication, but, formless and uneven, exists as a mere assemblage of illbalanced notes, abounding in rough disjointed sentences, dry repetitions, and frequent references to matters of a private nature. The third system is that which is now-a-days most in favour, and its advantages are great and evident ; yet it frequently leads to many small exaggerations, amounting in the aggregate to a large untruthfulness, and almost certainly removes the freshness and individuality that characterise viii

PREFACE.

even the feeblest of daily records ; in the present case, more¬ over, it would be more than usually hazardous, owing to the risk of any drafts on memory or retrospective fancy, after so long a lapse of time. The second method is generally the worst of all ; it is apt to unite the meagreness of the journal with the inexactness of an after narrative, while presenting neither the freshness of the one, nor the smoothness and freedom of the other : to work on this system, though sometimes scarcely avoidable, is to invite trouble and run much risk of failure.

After careful consideration, T have adopted a mixed plan, seeking as far as may he to combine the advantages of all these methods : I have employed sometimes one of them, sometimes another, varying the manner of my treatment according to the demands of each particular case.

My work, as it now stands, has been arranged on the following general system : — In certain parts, and especially towards the beginning of the volume, I have, with large omissions, fused my journal into something of the narrative form, while preserving its order and partially retaining its diction ; but where this has been done, I have endeavoured to make my intention clear, so that the reader may not be cheated into accepting the remarks of to-day as those of fifteen years ago. In other parts, I have followed my notes with some closeness, though not without more or less exten¬ sive alterations in the phraseology and construction. In most parts, however, and especially in the latter half of the volume, I have made a literal, or almost literal, transcript from my diary, marking such extracts, when they occur, by single inverted commas. Verbal changes, transposition of

PREFACE.

ix

sentences, and such-like trivial amendments, I have some¬ times, though sparingly, admitted, and in certain rare cases I have added a few words to explain or elucidate my meaning ; but with these limitations the passages referred to may he relied on as actual extracts from the journal, even in portions that might be fancied too full or elaborate to have formed part of the real diary of a traveller in the wilds.

I do not, of course, attach value to the mere diction of my journal, as possessing any merit or importance in itself, hut only as affording a guarantee of perfect accuracy so far as the writer could compass it. So careful have I been to preserve an exact truthfulness — which to my mind seems more important in a book of travels than picturesque word-painting or luxuriant adornments of style — that wherever I have offered anything beyond the most slight or obviously recent addition to the material existent in the journal, I have bracketed off such passages, however certain of their accuracy, lest some trick of memory should be leading me into con¬ fusion or mistake.

In the Appendix, besides a few miscellaneous papers at the end, I have collected various passages from my diary, which bore but slight relation to the main story, while from their length, character, or position, they tended to impede its progress. Being chiefly memoranda on Shakespearian and theological subjects, — with recent additions, expanded in the case of Hamlet almost into an essay, — they are little calculated, I fear, to interest the majority of readers ; some, nevertheless, may consider them worth perusal ; and for different reasons I was desirous to preserve those portions of my work, though

PREFACE.

relegating them to a place where they need not he found unless sought for.

It was no definite purpose of mine to gather notes on subjects of a scientific nature, nor closely to record the geo¬ graphical features of the country through which I travelled ; where, however, details of that class do happen to occur, I have thought it best to give them as they actually stand, without attempting to improve them by private collation with the valuable works on the same part of northern America, which have appeared since the date of my journey, — every collation throughout the volume being distinctly pointed out, and very carefully acknowledged* Superior in various important respects as some of these works must undoubtedly he to mine, — composed as they were by men of science attached to exploring expeditions organised by the British and Canadian Governments, — I cannot hut remember that my information, however cursorily noted, was either gained by personal observation, or from sources so good, that, in cases of differ¬ ence (and a few such there may be), it is by no means impossible that I am in the right, and the more qualified author in the wrong. At all events, in such cases a com¬ parison would be worth the making ; so I have left the means of making it, instead of seeking to prevent disparities by the invasion of another man’s store, whenever his materials seemed better than those collected by myself.

* I specially refer to the Reports by Captain Palliser’s expedition, and to the books or Reports by Mr. Hind, Lord Milton, Captain Butler, and the Rev. Mr. Grant. While my book owes exceedingly little to any of these more recent publications, it is very largely indebted to Sir John Richardson’s admir¬ able Fauna Boreali- Americana (1829-31), from which (as will he seen) I have taken nearly all the zoological details that occur in the footnotes and elsewhere.

PREFACE.

As regards the maps which appear in this volume, the larger of the two — comprising my general route through the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Territories — sufficiently speaks for itself, subject to the explanation that it has been prepared by the Messrs. Keith Johnston, with special reference to the aspect of the country, in its boundaries, settlements, railways, etc., as existing at the period of my journey, — viz. in the years 1859 and 1860.

The smaller map, however, — illustrative of my route while travelling in the Bocky Mountains, — demands perhaps more particular notice ; as I am personally accountable, not only for its arrangement, but for the details of a certain portion of the country, never before (nor probably since) visited by any European. On these points it may be noted, that the outlines of the map in question — which are of my own framing — have been composed by adjustment from the principal maps in the Blue Boohs relating to Captain Palliser’s Expedition ; and that the newly explored valleys are laid down from a sketch made by me in 1860, while the memory of the localities was still fresh in my mind.

I regret that circumstances should have prevented me from forming a better record of my explorations than a mere approximate sketch, — for even on unimportant subjects ac¬ curacy will often prove to be of value, — but, such as it is, I offer it as some small tribute to the treasury of geographical knowledge.

As regards the illustrations, whether on separate pages or attached to the letterpress of the work, the greater number of these are derived from my own sketches and drawings ; the

PREFACE.

xii

exception entirely consisting in those which have been repro¬ duced from photographs, or founded on them with some slight alteration.

To the former class belong all, save one, of the illustrations of scenery, every example of which may be relied on as a truthful though imperfect portrayal of Nature, — notwith¬ standing the roughness of my drawings, and the marvellous improvement in all artistic qualities which they have sustained under Mr. Whymper’s skilful hand.

To the latter class must be referred the various repre¬ sentations of animals’ heads, taken from skulls and stuffed specimens in my possession; also several relating to other objects — viz., Red River Fire-bags, — Cree Whip, — Edmonton Hunter's Bag, — Assiniboine Fire-bag, Knife-sheath, and Pipe, — all of which are engraved from excellent photographs by Mr. Eodgers, of Montrose ; and in addition to these the view of Minnehaha Falls, by Mr. Whitney, a St. Paul photographer, the only landscape for which my own pencil is not originally responsible.

Most of the smaller and less elaborate illustrations belong to the former of these classes, being facsimiles, or nearly so, of pen-and-ink memoranda hastily sketched into my journal ; the exceptions are as follows : — Buffalo-hide Line, — Whisky, — Snow-shoe and Skida, — sketches only recently prepared by me expressly for the present volume.

I will not add to an already lengthened preface, by attempt¬ ing to detail the causes which are answerable for so many years’ delay in the publication of these travels, nor by seeking to account for, or excuse, their publication at all under such

PREFACE.

xiii

unusual circumstances — the work must vindicate itself, or fail ; but, having offered the explanations that seemed abso¬ lutely needful, I now submit my book to the courteous reader, in the hope that, whatever the extent of its imperfections, it may still be found to possess some degree of interest, and to afford some new information in regard to a country not yet superfluously depicted and described.

[It may be well to inform the reader that the word Saskatchewan ’ is pro¬ nounced with a strong accent on the second syllable — thus, Sas-katch-e-wan.

ERRATA AND ADDENDA.

Pages 16, 17, 87, 8 8, for “Dr.” Richardson read “Sir John” Ricliard-

Page 16, line 8 of footnote, for “ Mr.” Sabine, read “Sir Edward” Sahine.

„ 16, line 2 from bottom of page, for “ Tetrao Phasiancllus, the adult

male of which is described,” read “ Centrocercus Phasiancllus, the adult male of which is stated to be sixteen inches in length, while the Pinnated Grouse is described : ” and page 17, line 8 from bottom of page, before “ Phasiancllus ” insert “ (Centrocercus). ”

Pages 26, 27, insert accent over “Rivieres.”

Page 27, line 11, after “ M‘lntosh ” insert “ [? Mackenzie. See p. 355.] ”

,, 66, line 1 of footnote, for ‘ ‘ Mayhagan ” read “ Mahay gan.”

,, 76, line 15, for “whence” read “where.”

,, 86, lines 1 and 2 of footnote, for “ Mesaskatomena ” read “ Misas-

katomina for Yol. I. read Vol. II. ; for “Aronia ovalis” read “ Amelanchier ovalis. Aronia ovalis — Rich, in Frankl.”

,, 95, line 3 from bottom, for “rifle-bullet” read “heavy bullet.”

„ 103, bottom line of page, for “ 291 ” read “ 281.”

„ ,, line 3 from bottom of page, for “ tainted ” read “ scented.”

,, 167, line 3 from bottom, for “ model ” read “ medal.”

„ 200, line 9, insert accent over “epic.”

,, 221, line 5 from bottom, for “ Encrinites ” read “ Belemnites.”

,, 233, line 2 from bottom, after “humble” insert “gentle and line 3 of following page, strike out “ of” before “ whatsoever.”

,, 249, line 22 ,for “half-dozen” read “half-a-dozen.”

,, 265, line 2 of footnote, for “ Wapoos ” read “ Wawpoos.”

„ 287, lines 5 and 6 of footnote, read “ Siissee ” and “Chippeway” as in italics.

,, 294, lines 2, and 1 of footnote, for “travaux” “travail,” read “ travailles ” “ travaille.”

,, 316, title of woodcut, for “Skidob” read “Skida.”

,, 370, line 4 of footnote, before “chief” insert “deceased.”

„ 388, line 3 from bottom, for “intimation” read “indication.”

„ 391, line 20, for “grim” read “your.”

,, 393, line 21, for “ strong-headed ” read “strong-handed.”

,, 405, line 19, for “ I inhabit thee ” read “ I inhibit thee.”

,, 413, line 18, for “There’s Hector . . . there’s a fellow,” read “ That’s Hector, that, that, look you, that ; there’s a fellow ! ”

Chapter I

NIAGARA, LACHINE, ST. PAUL, CROW-WING.

(April 15 to May 19.)

Good Sport and Healthy Climate required — Mr. E - suggests the

Hudson’s Bay Country — The Journey decided on — Voyage to America — Sir James Anderson — New York — The Delaware Valley — Beautiful Seneca Lake — Niagara — A Visit to the Falls — Hudson’s Bay House, Lachine — Sir George Simpson — Departure for the Far West — Toronto — Mr. Paul Kane — Dr. Rae : his Arctic Journey — Western Men — Lake Michigan — Germans in Chicago — Aspect of the Country — The Mississippi Steamer — St. Paul, Minnesota — Rumours of Floods — Start for Crow-wing, but return — James M'Kay, the Red River Guide : his characteristics — Captain Blakiston — Purchase of Horses, Waggon, etc. — “ Morgan ” and “ Vermont ” — The Minnehaha Falls — Leave St. Paul — “Hyperborean Hotel” — Decline a Half-broke Runner — Crow-wing City . . . Pages 1-12

Chapter II. Crow-wing To Fort Garry

(May 20 to June 1.)

Morning Start for the Wilderness — Happy Spring-tide — Men, Homes, and Vehicles — Portage of Miry Creek — Camp by the Crow- wing River — Boat-tents — The Prairie-hen : Queries as to its name and designation — A drunken Ojibway — Dangerous meeting with Les Pillageurs — Prairie in Flames — Lake Forty-four — Pelicans — Clouds of minute Flies — Breakfast-fire spreads — Fine View from Height-of- Land — A Waterspout — Violent Thunderstorm — Night Scene in a xvi

CONTENTS.

Flooded Tent — Cross Rice River in a Cart-wheel Scow — M‘Kay’s Energy — Wet and Weary Ride — Bittern-shooting — “ Running ” a Bear — “Blueher” — Crossing of Red Lake River — An American Pedlar — Mosquitoes in force: their Venom — Pigeon-stalking by Pine River — Frogs and Cranes and Doleful Swamps — Isolated feel¬ ings on a Vast Plain — Pembina — The Fort and its Fare — Uproar of Indians — Origin of term Saulteaux — The Vieux Marais — A Woolly Horse and a Skew-bald Pony — A Settler’s Cottage — Crossings of Red River — Arrival at Fort Garry . . . Pages 13-29

Chapter III. Fort Garry

(June 1 to 14.)

Description of Fort Garry — Party at Dinner — Mr. Boyd — Sir George Simpson and Mr. Hopkins leave for Norway House — Notice of Sir George Simpson’s Death — Distribution of Red River Population — Visit to the Nunnery — Dress of the Sisters — The Cathedrals and Churches — Prevalence of the Scottish Race — St. James’s, on the Assiniboine — The Church and Parsonage — A Portrait of the Queen — The “ Ans Northup,” the first Steamer seen on Red River — Indian Spectators — Encampment of Crees — Preparations for Expedition completed — The Men that formed the party — Vehicles, Stores, and Provisions — Horses — Guns and Rifles . . Pages 30-39

Chapter IV. Fort Garry To Fort Ellice

Expedition sets out — White Horse Plains — A Summer Morning’s Concert — Purchase “Blond ” and “tLa Framboise ” — Sunday Halts — An Unwholesome Camp — Mr. Simpson’s Visit — Rumours of Indian Warfare — Purchase “ Bichon,” a Buffalo-runner — Destruction among the Trees — A “ Lob-stick ” — Picturesqueness of the Hunters — Their Wives— A handsome Half-breed Girl — Spanish Saddle — The Insect Pest — The Retriever that would not retrieve — Characteristics

CONTENTS.

of the Men — The Little Saskatchewan — Meaning of word Saskatch¬ ewan — .“Vermont” — Mischances — Death of a Skunk — The Loon on Shoal Lake — Re-arrange Armament — Vale of the Assiniboine — Fort Ellice — Mr. M‘Kay — Fresh Tongues — Indian Visitors — Route determined on — Numme engaged as Guide — Four Buffalo Calves ...... Pages 40-52

Chapter V. Fort Ellice To Qu’appelle Fort

(June 28 to July 3.)

Additional Stores — “Pointer” the Pointer — Pierre Numme portrayed — Tent-life, its Charms and Harms — Travelling Cree and his Wife — Target-practice — Numme doctors his Gun — A fragrant Camp — A Wolf wounded — Cabree-hunting — Numme’s Cutting-up Feat — The Cabree described — Great Creek — The Lake of the Valley — Short’s Skill with Gun and Bow — An Indian Emissary — Party from Qu’appelle Fort — Indian Horsemanship — Mr. Cardinal — Smoking Party at Qu’appelle Fort — Visited by Ojibways — Visit their Camp — “ Spots-in-the-sky ” and “ Pointed-cap : ” their different Be¬ haviour — Cree Whip — A Yellow-faced Indian — Dog-train astonishes the Ponies — A beautiful Sunset . . . Pages 53-64

Chapter VI. Qu’appelle Fort To The Indian Elbow

(July 4 to 8.)

Departure from Qu’appelle Fort — “ Hector ” condemned and executed — A prowling Wolf — Varieties of the American Wolf — A Cabree shot — The Qu’appelle Valley — Origin of the name Qu’appelle — “ Buffalo Chips” — Quirk, Gammon, and Snap — Wolf invades the Camp — White Cranes — Stony Valley — Character of the Country — Tiger-lilies and Blue-bells — Chorus of young Wolves — Chase of a white Wolf — Furnace-like Heat — The Sandy Hills — Cree notions about Heaven and Hell — “ Pointer ” in Fits — Bull-dog Flies — Sufferings of poor “Bichon” — “Bichon” and “ Wawpooss,” their Whims and Oddities — A Saline Draught — Good Water and Wild Garlic

CONTENTS.

xviii

Chapter VII. Indian Elbow To Crossing Of South Branch

(July 9 to 13.)

The Elbow of the South Saskatchewan : its Character and Scenery— The Aiktow River — Mr. Hind on the “ Elbow ” : its Angle and its Water-width discussed — Feasibility of junction between Saskat¬ chewan and Qu’appelle — Recent Site of a great Indian Camp — Explore up-stream — Settle on Route — Numme and his Contract — Banks of the Saskatchewan — Death of an aged Buffalo — Run a Bull, and shoot him — Indian Magic : “ Medicine Tent ” : Conjuring : Second Sight : Charming a Gun — Fine Cabree Shot — Its Homs — Charged by a Buffalo Bull — His Death — Another Bull Slain, and falls into River — A Wolf-chase on Foot — A Swim — Saskootoom Berries — Preparations for Crossing — Skin Canoes — Catlin on “ Bull-boats” — Bait-fishing — Fish that inhabit the Saskatchewan — White Fish in the Lakes .... Pages 75-88

Chapter VIII. South Saskatchewan To Cherry Bush

Crossing of the South Saskatchewan — Swimming of the Horses — Traces of an Indian Camp — Wild Strawberries — An unfrequented Route — A sacrifice of Bull-dogs — Eagle Creek — Bad Habits of the Horses — Vast Herd of Buffaloes — The American Bison, its names, weight, and size — Arrangements for a Hunt — The Start — Wawpooss gives in — Shoot a fine Cow — Long Chase of a Bull — In the midst of the Herd — Death of the Bull — Numme in Ambush — Homs of the Bull — Catlin on Buffalo-" wallows ” — Old Bull pierced with fourteen Bullets — Mistaken for Blackfeet — Alarming Invasion — Tait and his men — Scarcity at the Forts — Wolves routed by Moonlight — Marrow¬ bone Game — Sleeping Wolf lapidated — Stalk Buffaloes on foot — Bulls dangerous in the Rutting Season — Tents struck — Over the Roasting Hills — A Badger — “Black” turns restive — A Buffalocharmer — Cherry Bush — Visit from Tait and his Child — Napesskes — The Buffalo Ox — Run two Cows — “ Biclion ” lands on his Head

CONTENTS.

six

Chapter IX. Cherry Bush, The Bad Hill, Fort Carlton

Departure for a Bear-hunt — Napesskes in his best — Plains alive with Buffalo — The Bad Hill — Anecdote of Indian killed'by Bear — Search for Grislies — A “ Roe ” — Female Bear and her Cub — Wound a Male Grisly — The Black-tailed Deer — Exploration of the Bad Hill — Eagle Hill Creek, its position on Map — Buffalo-stalking — Bull protects Cow — Scarcity of pure Water — Search for the wounded Grisly — Hideousness of a Skinned Bear — Leave the Bad Hill — New¬ born Calf and its Mother — Old Buffalo Bulls like Lions — Another Ox — A long Running-shot — Carving out a Set of Harness — Hide- Lines — The last Run — “ Morgan ” goes well — Shoot a savage Cow — Wolves chase a Calf — The Prairie Wolf described — Roaring of Buffaloes — Buffalo-meat — Industry of Indian Women — Fashion in Beads — The Revolver unsatisfactory — Half-breed manner of loading — Visit of Crees from their great Camp — Blackfoot War-parties reported — End of the Hunt — Success considered good — Tents struck — Elbow of the North Saskatchewan — Iron-ore Spring — Encamp near Fort Carlton — Invitation from Mr. Hardisty — Drunken Indians in the Camp ..... Pages 108-128

Chapter X. Fort Carlton To Fort Edmonton

(July 26 to August 10.)

Ride to the “Horse-guard” — Parklike Landscape — Napesskes on a three-year-old — Numme’s keen eye for Number One — The Store — The Rum got rid of — Visit to Mrs. Tait — Present of Leather Hunt¬ ing-shirt from Mr. Hardisty — The Fort described — Indian Women — Cross the North Saskatchewan — “Pointer” and the Musquitoes — Fertile Plains — Prevalence of Poplars — A cracked Meerschaum — The fat Dog “ Whisky ” — Cries of wild Animals — A Cart upsets — “ Lane’s” Breaking-in — Smell of the Skunk : Hearne’s Notes thereon — Jack-fish Lake — A Wolf wounded — Sunday at White Mud Lake

XX

CONTENTS.

— Lagrace appears — A burnt Prairie — “ Wawpooss ” comes down — Horse Hill — Fort Pitt — Messrs. Macaulay and Sinclair — The Dog nuisance — To the Horse-guard — Mr. Rowland — Exchanges — The two Cendres — Mr. Sinclair takes leave of his favourite — Fitting Horse-shoes — M‘Kay shoots a large Wolf — Smoke-fires for the Horses — Black Mud Hill — A tame little Bird — Meet Mr. Hind — “Rowland” thinks himself in Hobbles — A magnificent Sunset

Chapter XI. Fort Edmonton

(August 11 to 16.)

Arrival at Edmonton — Mr. Brazeau — Rev. Mr. Woolsey — The Fort and its Environs — Mountain Journey planned out — Cree Syllabic Cha¬ racters — An ,£18,000 Subscription — A Cree Idiom — A Blackfoot stripped of his Goods — Authenticity of Catlin’s Indian Portraits — Town Critics on “ Travellers’ Tales ” — Intrusive Dogs — Indian Dogs described — “ Mihekan” — Sleigh-dogs in Summer — Missionary Success among the Kootanies — A Blackfoot Chief on Polygamy — Comments thereon — Father De Smet, with Comments — The red-dun Horse : its Hieroglyphics — Sunday Services — A Laughable Interruption — Native Music — Horsemanship of Indian Boys — Antoine Blandoine engaged as Guide — Lapataque and the Fusees — Pe-toh-pee-kiss, the Blackfoot Warrior : his Adventure with Mr. Yanderbirt — Treachery of Bridger — Spaniard’s Infant carried off — The Blackfeet : their three Tribes — Blood Indians — Cree and Blackfoot peculiarities — Scarcity of Half-breeds in United States — Unchastity of Indian Women — Piskan Munroe required as Interpreter — Edmonton Hunter’s “ Dag ” ..... Pages 147-165

Chapter XII.. Fort Edmonton To The Rocky Mountains

(August 17 to 31.)

Departure from Edmonton — First Frosts of Autumn — Meet Mr Moberly : his advice as to Route — The Mission at St. Ann — Pro-

CONTENTS.

xxi testant and Roman Catholic Missionaries — Order and Comfort at the Mission-House. Its Books and Pamphlets — Purchases of Horses — Lac des Isles — Horrible Roads — The Pembina and its Scenery — - Buffalo Creek — Meadow formed by Beavers — Struggle through Thickets — The Party dressed in Leather — Rifle-practice at Pigeons and “ Partridges ” — The Spotted Grouse — First Sight of the Mountains — An Iroquois Family — “ Muskegs ” and narrow Tracks — Difficulties — Fatigues — Disturbance of a Wasp’s Nest — Roast Skunk — Gastro¬ nomic Details excusable — Immense Firs and Poplars — The River M‘Leod — Wife of Pierre the Iroquois — Her pied Mare : its Bells — Sheep Pemmican — Sun-light on a burnt Pine-forest — Through Woods and Bogs — Glimpse of two Mountain Peaks — La Riviere d’Embarras — “ Whisky ” and Water — Sancho Panza of Dogs — Full view of the Rocky Mountains — Antoine’s Enthusiasm — Gun-covers — Iroquois Hunters and their Horses — Illness of Pierre’s Baby: successful Doctor¬ ing — Indian Ideas of the Aurora — Horse-dealing — “ Jasper ” — “ Moutonne ” — Poor “ Creme ” — Part from Pierre — “ Jasper’s ” Merits — Cross the Embarras thirty-seven times — The M'Leod Yalley — - Assiniboine Camp-sites — Horses among fallen Timber — Separate Camp-fires begun — The Red River Men : their general goodness of Conduct ..... Pages 166-188

Chapter XIII. Medicine Tent River And North River Camps

(September 1 to 10.)

The Rocky Moimtains — Antoine makes a Fishing-rod — Arthur’s Seat — Axe-work necessary — Camp in a deep Glen — Wild Sheep at a dis¬ tance — The Mountain “ Whistler ” — Ground-Squirrels — Climb after a White Goat — Siffleur Meat — Medicine Tent River — Mount Lindsay — The Mountains of Rock : the Rivers : the Trees — Sudden Changes of Temperature — Camp near a Waterfall — The Dusky Grouse — Climb the Height-of-Land — Raise a Cairn — “ Pointer ” and the Porcupine — Grisly seen — Unsuccessful Chase — Two Siffleurs shot — Length of their Skins — Antoine’s quaint Rifle — Shoot several Ewes — Munroe brings in a Ram’s Head — Toma and the “ Saw-mill ” — Mark name on Tree — Description of the View — Head Streams of Athabasca and North Rivers — Southesk’s Cairn — Enter North River Yalley — The

CONTENTS.

xxii

“ Brigade ” on March : its Members described — Shoot Ewes and old Bams — Short meets a Bear — The way to encounter a Grisly — The Puma — Tea versus Stimulants — Shoot several Rams — The Wild Sheep described — A perilous Slide — A fine Ram leaps from a Rock — “ Arranging ” the Slain — Dimensions of six Rams’ Heads — Reflec¬ tions on Slaughter of large Game — Snow-storm — Meditations — “Titus Andronicus” — Climb Mountain Spur — Weary walk in the Dark — Character of the Rocks — Fossils . . Pages 189-221

Chapter XIV. North River Camp To Kootanie Plain

(September 11 to 18.)

Mount Dalhousie — “ Painted Lady ” Butterflies — The Piping Crow — Vast Precipices like blocks of Masonry — A Meteor, and a Moonlight Scene — Counter-marches — Differences adjusted — Lances of the Forest — Sudden Death of a Horse — White Goats — On the Cliffs in Dark¬ ness — Search for a Pass — The Ptarmigan — Difficult Travelling — Horses dragged up an Ice-bank — Track lost — Over Height-of-Land between North River and North Saskatchewan — Small green Marmots — Robe of 125 Skins — Shoot five Ewes — About Moccasins — Art-instinct of the Savage — John Wesley’s breadth of view — Long March down a Glen — Pearly-grey Precipices — The Flying-Squirrel — Camp by the Saskatchewan — Shylock and his Judges — Kootanie Plain

Chapter XV. Kootanie Plain To Old Bow Fort

(September 19 to 30.)

Raft across the Saskatchewan — The right Road to Bow River -Illness of Munroe — Candle-making — Over Height-of-Land between North Sas¬ katchewan and Bow Rivers — Traces of Bears — Larches appear — A Miss — Memoranda for Stalkers — Ewe falls over high Cliff — Search for Wild Goats — Severe Chase — Dangerous Climb — A Lake in a

CONTENTS.

xxiii

Crater — Shoot two Goats — Mountain Goat described — Bow River — An extemporised Tent — Small Camp of Assiniboines — Provisions run short — Dr. Hector’s Camp-site — Stony flat on summit of Moun¬ tain — A Moose bought from the Indians — Scriptural Passages copied out — Horses bought and exchanged — Presents to the Wives — Chil¬ dren play with young Horses — A Consumptive Patient — The Ruffed Grouse — “ The Mountain where the Water falls — Letter in Cree syllabic characters — Bow River Yale : its fine Timber — Destruction of Trees in America — The Destroyers denounced — Gale of Wind : Camp in a Wood — Moose-nose for Dinner . Pages 236-251

Chapter XVI. Old Bow Fort To Fort Edmonton

(October 1 to 16.)

Arrival at Old Bow Fort — Joy at leaving the Mountains — Their Alti¬ tude — Height of Mount Murchison — Drawbacks to Sport — Gloom of the Deep Valleys — Vestiges of Buffalo- — -Decrease of their number — The Stonies — “ Bounding Deer ” — Ford the River on “ Jasper ” and “Moutonne” — Trout — Tremendous Gale — Tent falls — Find remains of Carts — Carts and Harness made — Camp of Assiniboines : their Hymn-singing: their old Preacher — Troublesome Dogs — Worthiness of the Mountain Indians : Present promised to them — Her Majesty’s Image — Horses exchanged — Again on the March — A really pretty Indian Woman — Party of American Travellers — Mutual Aid — Indian Improvidence — Musk-rats — Wild Swans — Cross Red Deer River — The American Hare — Run a Black Bear — Notes on Sand-rats — Cross Battle River — Pike Creek : Beaver Dams and felled Trees — A Foal emerges from the Thicket — Cloud Scenbry — A well-seen Dinner — White Mud River — Arrive at Fort Edmon¬ ton — Mr. Christie — Civilised Comforts — Reports by Captain Palliser’s Men — Parting with Antoine — Account of Horses kept, lost, etc. — Letter and Present to the Mountain Assiniboines — Their sub¬ sequent Sad Fate — Arrangements for further Journey — Amusing Intrusion of two Blackfeet — Announcement of the Approach of their Tribe ..... Pages 252-272