A visit to India, China, and Japan : in the year 1853

Front matter

f l IBRAR>

GJontEll Hmoeraitg iCihratg

3lhara. SJenr $orh

Preface

With this volume ends the record of two and a half years of travel, which was commenced in the " Journeyto Central Africa," and continued in the " Lands of the Saracen." In bringing his work to a close, the author cannot avoid expressing his acknowledgment of the public interest in those portions of his narrative alreadypublished — an interest which has justified him in the preparation of this volume, and encouraged him to hope that he will again be received at the same firesides as a gossip and companion, not as a bore.

Although the entire travels herewith presented embrace India, China, Japan, the Loo-Choo and Bonin Islands, and the long homeward voyage around the Cape of Good Hope, they were all accomplished in the space of a year. Hence, some of my descriptions may bear the marks of haste, and I may, occasionally, have founded a judgment on the first rapid impressions, which a greater familiarity with the subject might not have confirmed. I can only say, in answer to objections of this kind, that I have conscientiously endeavored to be correct and impartial, and that, in preparing this work for the press, I have carefully tested the original impressions recorded on the spot, by the truer images which slowly ripen in the memory, and by the light of subsequent experience.

The portions of the book devoted to India and China are as complete as the length of my stay in those countries allowed me to make- them. The account of my visit to Loo-Choo and Japan, however, is less full and detailed than I could have wished. In accordance with special regulations issued by the Secretary of the Navy, I was obliged to give up my journals to the Department, at the close of my connection with the Expedition. It was understood that they would be retained and employed in the compilation of the Narrative of the Expedition, now being prepared by order of Congress. As my accounts of the most interesting events which I wit-

PREFACE. Vll

nessed had already been published, and were therefore common property, I made application to Government for the favor of being allowed to copy portions of my journal — especially that part relating to Loo-Choo — which would have enabled me to supply the links between the published accounts : but my request was peremptorily denied. My papers will no doubt be restored to me, after the completion of the Government work : otherwise, like John Ledyard, in a precisely similar case, I shall have the alternative of an unusually tenacious memory.

During my journeys and voyages in those remote parts of the world, I was treated with great kindness and hospitality by the English and American merchants and officials established there, and received assistance in the prosecution of my plans, which I take sincere pleasure in acknowledging. I desire, especially, to return my thanks to Commodore Perry, to whose kindness I was indebted for the most interesting portion of my experiences ; to the Hon. Humphrey Marshall, late U. S. Commissioner to China ; to Capt. Buchanan, U. S. N. ; to Edward Cunningham, Esq., U. S. Vice-Consul at Shanghai ; to Henry G. Keene, Esq., of the E. I. Com-

VUl PREFACE.

pany's Civil Service, and Capt. E. Baird Smith, of the Bengal Engineers ; and to the American Missionaries in India and China, from all of whom I received every assistance in their power.

B. T.

New Toek, August, 1855.

Chapter I

Leaving Gibraltar — Voyage up the Mediterranean — Landing at Alexandria — Distribution of Passengers— A Cloudy Day in Egypt— A Joyful Meeting — The Desert Vans— "We Start for Suez — Cockney Fears — The Road and Station-houses — Suez — Transfer to the India Steamers— Our Passengers and Crew — The Mountains of Horeb — Red Sea Weather and Scenery — A Glimpse of Mocha— The Straits of Bab-el -Man deb — An Extinct Hades — The Fortress of Aden — Arrival — The Somali — Ride to the Old Town — Population of Aden — Temperature — The Fortifications— The Track of the Anglo- Saxon — Departure — Disregard of Life — Araby the Blest — Life on the Achilles — Approach to India— Land I— The Ghauts of Malabar — Arrival at Bombay, . 18

Chapter II

A Foretaste of India — Entering Bombay Harbor— I Reach the Shore— My First Ride in a Palanquin — Mr. Pallanjee's Hotel — Appearance of Bombay — Its Situation — The First Indian Railroad — English Hospitality — American Consuls and Residents — The Parsees — Sir .Tamsetjee Jeejeebhoy — His Family and Residence — Parsee Faith and Ceremonies — Bridal Processions — A Drive to Malabar Hill — Tropical Gardens — Tax on Palm-Trees— A Hindoo Temple— The Jeejeebhoy Hospital— Dr. Bhawoo Dajee, ... .... S4

Chapter III

Hindoo and Egyptian Antiquities — The Hindoo Faith— The Trinity — A Trip to Elephanta — Scenery . of the Bay — Landing on the Island— Front View of the Cave- Temple — Portuguese Vandalism — The Colossal Trinity— The Head of Brahma — Vishnu — Shiva — Remarkable Individuality of the Heads — The Guardians of the Shrine — The Columns of Elephanta — Their Type in Nature— Intrinsic Dignity of all Religions — Respect for the Ancient Faiths — The Smaller Chambers of the Temple— The Shrine of the Sterile — Tamarind Trees — Smaller Cave-Temples — Return to Bombay Island — Sunset in the Botanic Garden, 43

1*

CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Ne .v- Year's Day— A Tropical Gift — AParsee Bungalow— Our Reception — Chewing tho Betel-Nut— The Nautch-Girls— Their Dances— Supper— Prejudices of Caste— The Bengalee Dance — A Gilded Bridegroom — Pierciug Music— Ship-Building in Bomhay — Education of the Natives — Their Appeals to Parliament, . . . .55

Chapter V

Preparations for Departure— Warnings— Filial Gratitude — The Banghy Cart — A Night- Gallop through Bombay — The Island Road — Ferry to the Mainland — Despotism of the Banghy-Cart— Morning Scenery — The Bungalow— Breakfast— The Sun as a Physician— Au Army of Bullocks — Climbing the Ghauts — Natural Pagodas — The Summit— A Kind Sergeant — The Second Day — Resemhlancu to Mexico— Natives and Villages — The Menagerie Man in Egypt — An English Cantonment — Dhoolia — The Lieutenant and his Hospitality — A Rough Road — Accident — Waiting in tho Jungle— The Bullock-Cart— Halt at Seerpore, 62

Chapter VI

Departure from Seerpore — Another Break-down — A Crippled Cart — Palasnehr — Indian Horses and Drivers — Jungle — The Banyan Tree— The Tamarind — The Natives of the Jungle — Military Salutations — The Town of Sindwah— Tokens of Decay— The Sindwah Jungles — A Dilemma — The Viudhya Mountains — The Station of Mhow— Arrival at Indore — The Town — The Rajah's Palace — The Rajah and his History— His Tastes — Hindoo Temples and their Worshippers — The English Residency — Cold Weather, 79

Chapter VII

The Mail-Cart— Setting out from Indore— Night Travel— Stupidity of the Natives — Mnssulmen— Nearly au Accident— Scenery of tho Road— A Polite Englishman- Miseries of the Journey— A Tiger Party— Budjrungurh— Goonah— A Free Use of Hospitality— The Thugs and Robbers— Second Halt— Miss Burroughs— Going On— The Plain of Hindustan — Approach to Agra — A Landmark, . . . .92

Chapter VIII

Akbarabad— The Modern City— The English Cantonments— Rev. Mr. Warren— The Fort of Agra— The Jninma Musjeed— Entering the Forl^Judgment-Seat of the Emperor— The Gates of Somnanth— Akbar's Palace — Splendor of its Decorations— The Palace of Glass— A Cracked Throne— The Pearl Mosque— Tomb of Akbar, at

Secundra— An Indian Landscape — Saracenic Art— Mission Printing-Office The

American Missions— The Agra Jail— Dr. Walker's System of Education— Arithmetic in Chorus— Effect of the System # 101

Chapter IX

Excursion to Euttehpore-Sikree — The Road Thither— Approach to the Ruins— Their Extent and Grandeur— The Palace of Rajah Beer-Bui— Perfect Condition of tho Remains— Shekh Busharat-Ali— Age of Futtehpore— The Emperor's Palace- Rooms of the Sultana Mariam— Akbar's Tolerance— The Five Palaces— The Pillar of Council— Profusion of Ornament— The Emperor's Salutation— The Elephant Gate

CONTENTS, XI

and Tower— The Durgah— Shekh Selim-Cbishti— He gives a Son to the Emperor— The 6plendor of his Tomb— View from the Gateway— Au Experiment— Tiffin in the Palace— The Story of the Rajah Beer-Bui and the Ruby— Last View of Fnttehpore-Sikree, ng

vwCHAPTEE X^^,

Distant Views of the Taj— Tomb of Itmiin e1 Dowlah— The Garden of Rama— Night Worship— The Taj Mahal— Its Origin— The Light ofthe Harem— Portal and Avenue to the Taj— Its Form— Its Inlaid Marbles and Jewel Work— Tomb of Noor-Jehan— The Dome— Resemblance to Florentine Art— Proofs of Saracenic Design— The Echo under the Dome— Beauty of the Taj— Saraceidc Architecture— Plan of Shah Jehan— Garree Dawk— Leaving Agra— Night— Ally ghur— The Grand Trunk Road — Distant View of Delhi — Arrival, . 130

CHAPTER SI.

Delhi— The Mognl Empire at Present— Ruins of former Delliis — The Observatory— =>A Wilderness of Ruin — Tomb of Sufdur Jung— The Kbuttub Minar— Its Beauty — View from the Summit— Uncertainty of its Origin— The Palace of Aladdin— Ruins of a Hindoo Temple — Tomb of the Emperor Humayoon — Of Nizam-ud-deen — Native Sam Patches — Old Delhi — Aspect of the Modern City— The Chandnee Choke— Bayaderes— Delhi Artisans and Artists — The Jumna Musjeed — A Hindoo Minstrel and his Songs — The Palace of Akbar II. — Neglect and Desolation — The Diwan — An, Elysium on Earth— The Throne Hall— The Crystal Throne— The Court of Akbar II. —A Farce of Empire — The Gardens — Voices ofthe Sultanas — Palace Pastimes, 143

CHAPTER XII.

Departure for the Himalayas — "Laying a Dawk" — Last View of Delhi — A Rainy Night — Quarters at Meerut — The Dawk Agent — Hindoo Punctuality — Meerut — Palanquin Travelling — Tricks of the Bearers — Arrival at Roorkbee — Adventures in Search of a Breakfast — First View ofthe Himalayas — A "Welcome Invitation — Roorkbee— The Ganges Canal — Its Cost and Dimensions — Method of Irrigation — The Government and the People — Aqueduct over the Selanee River — Apathy of the Natives, ... 160

CHAPTER XIII.

Native "Workmen at Roorkhee — Their Wages — Departure for Hurdwar — Afternoon View of the Himalayas — Peaks visible from Roorkhee — Jungle-grass — Jowalapora — Approach to the Siwalik Hills — First View of the Ganges — Ganges Canal — Prediction of the Brahmins — An Arrival — The Holy City of Hurdwar — Its Annual Fair — Appearance ofthe Streets — The Bazaar — A Himalayan Landscape— Travel In the Jungle — A Conflagration — The Jungle by Torch-Light— Arrival .at Dehra, 171

CHAPTER XIV.

Reception by Mr. Keene — We start for the Himalayas — The Dehra-Dhoon — Morning View of the Sub-Himalayas — Leopards — Rajpore — "Wilson, the "Ranger of the Himalayas" — Climbing the Mountain — Change of Seasons^ — The Summit of the Ridge — Village of Landowr — Snow-Drifts— The Pole and the Equator — Rev. Mr.

XII CONTENTS.

Woodside— Mast-Head of the Sub-Himalayas— View of the Snowy Peaks— Grand Asiatic Tradition— Peculiar Structure of the Himalayan Ranges— Scenery of the Main Chain— The Paharrees— Polyandry— The Peaks at Sunset^-The Plain of Hindostan — A Cloudy Deluge, ^82

CHAPTER XY.

Return to Dehra— The Dhoon— System of Taxation— The Tea-Culture In India— Tea- Garden at Kaologir— Progress by Force— Ride to the Robber's Cave— A Sikh Temple—A Sunny Picture— Sikh Minstrelsy— Raj ah Loll Singh— English Masters and Native Servants — Preparations for Departure, 193

CHAPTER XVI.

Ride to Shahpore— The Rajah's Elephant— The Pass of the Siwalik Hills— I Resume the Palanquin— The Large Punch-House— Sabarunpore— The American Mission — The Botanic Garden— A Dreary Journey — Travellers — Salutations — Return to Meerut— A Theft— Journey over the Plains— Scenery of the Road— The Pollution of Touch— Fractious Horses— Arrival at Cawnpore— Capt. Riddell — The English Cantonments, 203

CHAPTER XVII.

Crossing the Ganges — Night-Jonrney to Lucknow — Arrival — A Mysterious Visitor — A Morning Stroll— The Goomtee River — An Oriental Picture — The Crowds of Lucknow — Col. Sleeman, the Resident — Drive through the City — The Constantinople Gate — Architectural Effects — The Imambarra — Gardens and Statues — Singular Decorations of tlie Tomb — Tho Chandeliers — Speculation in Oude — Hospital and Mosque — The King's New Palace — The Martiniere — Royalty Plundered — The Dog and the Rose-Water — Destruction of the King's Sons — The Explosion of a Fiend — Misrule in Oude — Wealth of Lucknow — A Ride on a Royal Elephant — The Queen-Dowager's Mosque — Navigating the Streets — A Squeeze of Elephants— The Place of Execution— The Choke — Splendor and Corruption, ... ... 214

CHAPTER XVIII.

Return to Cawnpore — An Accident — The Road to Allahabad — Sensible Pilgrims — Morning — Beauty of Allahabad— The American Missionaries — The Hindoo Festival —The Banks of the Ganges — Hindoo Devotees — Expounding the Vedas — The Place of Hair— A Pilgrim Shorn and Fleeced — The Place of Flags — Venality of the Brahmins— Story of the Contract for Grass — Junction of the Ganges and Jumna — Bathing of ihe Pilgrims— A Sermon — The Mission — Subterranean Temple — The Fort of Allahabad, . . . . .... 229

CHAPTER XIX.

Crossing the Ganges — Pilgrims Returning Home— Vagaries of the Horses — Benares

Prof. Hall— The Holy City— Its Sanctity— The Sanscrit College— Novel Plan ot

Education— Village of Native Christians— The Streets of Benares — Sacred Bulls

Their Sagacity and Cunning— The Golden Pagoda— Hindoo Architecture— Worship of the Lingam— Temple of the Indian Ceres— The Banks of the Ganges— Bathing Devotees — Preparations for Departure, 289

CONTENTS. X1U

CHAPTER XX.

Moonlight on the Ganges — The Unholy River — Scenery of the Plains — Egyptian Landscapes — Sasseram — Mountains near the Soane River — View of the Ford — Crossing — The Second Day's Journey — The Hills of Behar — Meeting with an Acquaintance^— "Wild Table-Land — Sunset — A Coolie Trick — The Aborigines of India — Triumph of the Red-haired Lady — Horse Gymnastics — The Lady Defeated — Munglepore — An Eccentric Night-Journey — The City of Burdwau — Tropical Scenery — Wrecked on the Road — A Wrathful Delay — Wrecked again — Journey by Moonlight — Another Wreck — An Insane Horse — The Hoogly River — Yet Another Accident — A Morning Parades — The End of " Garree-Dawk," 250

CHAPTER XXI.

Impressions of Calcutta — The Houses of the Residents — Public Buildings and Institutions— Colleges — Young Bengal — Museum of the Asiatic Society — The Botanic Garden — Calcutta at Sunset — Scene on the Esplanade — English Rule in India — IU Results — Its Disadvantages — Relation of the Government to the Population — Tenure of Land -Taxes — The Sepoys — Revenue of India — Public Works — Moral Changes— Social Prejudices, .... 262

CHAPTER XXII.

Departure from Calcutta — Descending the Hoogly River — An Accident — Kedgeree — The Songs of the Lascars — Saugor Island — The Sandheads — The Bay of Bengal — Fellow- Passengers — The Peak of Narcondan — The Andaman Islands — Approach to Penang— A Malay Garree — Beauty of the Island — Tropical Forests— A Vale of Paradise— The Summit — A Panorama — Nntmeg Orchards — The Extremity of Asia — The Malayan Archipelago — Singapore — Chinese Population — Scenery of the Island — The China Sea- — Arrival at Hong-Kong, 275

CHAPTER XXIII.

Trip to Macao — Attached to the U. 8. Embassy — On Board the Steam-Frigate Susquehanna—Departure from Macao — The Coast of China— The Shipwrecked Japanese — Their Address to the Commissioner — The Eastern Sea— The Archipelago of Chusan —The Mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang— The Steamer Aground— Rumors of the Rebels— Arrival at Woosung— Entering the Woosung River — Chinese Junks— Appearance of the Country — Approach to Shanghai — Arrival, 287

CHAPTER XXIV.

The Commissioner decides to visit Nanking— Preparations for the Voyage— Departure of four Japanese— The Susquehanna leaves— Woosung— Bush Island and Tsung- Ming — We strike the Blonde Shoal— The Chinese Pilots— Escape of a Boat— Off the Shoal— Mr. Bennett's night cruise after the Boats— Unfavorable Reports— The Return End of the Expedition — Successful Trip of the Susquehanna in the Summer

CHAPTER XXV.

Life in Shanghai— The Rebels Expected— My Journal— The Fall of Nanking— The Grain Trade— Soo-Chow Threatened— Barbarities at Nanking— Rumors Concern-

XIV CONTENTS.

ing the Rebels— Capture of Lurch as— Threats towards Foreigners— Alarm of the Taou-tai— A Eebel Proclamation — Imperial Bewards and Pardons — Col. Marshall's Proclamation— Nanking Besieged by the Imperial Army— Flight from Shanghai— Sir George Bonham— Meetings of the Foreign Residents— Ransom for Shanghai— Soo-Chow not Taken— Uncertainty — Mr. Meadows at Soo-Chow — Defensive Works Commenced— Trouble with the Men of Foo-Kien— Marauders in the Country- Burning of Thieves — The Foo-Kien Grave-yard— Desertion of the City — A Rumored Battle— Death of Tien-teh — Mr. Meadows — Various Enmors — Return of the Science— Destruction of Chin-kiang-foo— The Excitement Subsides, . . 805

CHAPTEE XXVI.

Chinese and Foreigners at Shanghai — Situation of the City — A Chinese Promenade — Burying-Grounds— Money for the Dead— A Baby Tower— The Ningpo House — Coffins— Chinese Gypsies— A Street of the Suburbs— The City Gate— A Chinese Pawnbroker's Shop — A Temple— The Statue of Boodh— A Priest at his Devotions —Stenches of the Streets— Beggars— Shops — View of the Tea-Garden — Chinese Gamblers— An Artistic Mountebank— The Baptist Chapel— Scene from its Tower— The Hills— Fanciful Signs— Missionary Labors in China— Apathy of the People— A Chinese Residence— The Library— The City Prison— Torture of the Prisoners— A Bath House— Character of the Mongol Form— The Tutelar Deity of Shanghai — Boodh at Sunsel>-Kite Flying 821

CHAPTEE XXVII.

An Earthquake — Sensations it Produced— Its Effects — Additional Shocks — The Bowling Alley — Hairs in the Soil — A Shower of Sand — -Visit of the Taou-tai to Col. Marshall — Chinese Visiting Cards — The Taou-tai's Appearance — Eeception of the Dignitaries — A Chinese Military Eeview — The Soldiers and their Equipments — Their Discipline — Uncouth Weapons — Absurdity of the Parade — The Commissioner visits the Taou-tai — Eeception — The Taou-tai's Residence — Chinese Refreshments — Departure, 889

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Spring at Shanghai— Appearance of the Country — Crops — National Conveyance of China — Houses of the Lower Classes— Sail on the River — The Pagoda — Village Market — Sweetmeats and Children — Showers of Cash — Chinese Horticultural Exhibition—The Lan-whei— Chinese Love of Monstrosity— Moral Depravity of the Eace — Landscape Gardening— A Soldier and his Drill -The Cangue — Visit of the Hermes to Nanking— The Rebels— Their Christianity— Condition of the City— Arrival of the U. S. Steam-Frigate MUstisippi— Commodore Perry— Col. Marshall's Chinese Dinner — Mr. Robert Fortune, ... 349

CHAPTEE XXIX.

State of Things at Shanghai— The Sloop-of-War Plymouth— Preparations for Departure—Entering the Naval Service— Its Regulations — Procuring a Uniform— The Master's-Mates— Establishing a Mess— Departure for Japan— A Gale— Shipwrecks- Standing out to Sen— Arrival at the Great Loo-Choo Island— A Missionary — Beauty of the Harbor of Napa— The Native Authorities— Going Ashore— Jumping over n Coral Reef— Landing— The Town of Napa-Kiang— Spies— Dr. Bettelheim's Residence, sao

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXX.

Visit of the Regent — The Island of Loo-Choo— An Exploration of the Interior— Setting Out— Entry into the Capital — Reception— The Old Mandarin in for a Journey— His Resignation — Programme of the Exploring Trip — Espionage in Loo-Choo — Endeavors to Escape it— Taking Families by Surprise — The Landscapes of Loo-Chop — The Cung-quds — Watches and Counter- Watches — Commodore Perry's Visit to Shui — Disembarkation — The Order of March — Curiosity of the Natives — March to the Capital — Reception at the Gate — A Deception Prevented — The Viceroy's Castle ' — The Inner Courts — The Commodore's Reception — A Tableau — Salutations and Ceremonies — Visit to the Regent's House — A State Banquet in Loo-Choo — Edibles and Beverages — Extent of the Dinner — Toasts — The Interpreter, Ichirazichi — Departure— Riding a Loo-Choo Pony — Return to the Squadron, . . 870

CHAPTER XXXL

Departure — The Bonin, or Arzobispo Isles— Death of a Chinese Opium Smoker— A Peruvian Bark — Approach to the Bonin Islands — Pilots — Entering Port Lloyd — Going Ashore— A Settler's Hut— Society on the Island — Mode of Life — An Old Inhabitant and his Mate— Productions of the Island— A Coaling Station for Steamers — Buckland Island— A Basaltic Cavern — English Claims to the Islands, . . 889

CHAPTER XXXII.

Exploring Parties Appointed— My Part— Betting Out— Climbing the Hills — The Soil and Productions — Land-Crabs — Crossing a Ridge — A Tropical Ravine — Signs of Habitation— A Marquesan and his Household— South-Sea Pilots— The Valley— The Forest Again — Trees— Shooting a Wild Boar— The Southern Coast — A Frecipice— Dangerous Climbing — A Frightful Ravine — Descending the Precipices — South-East Bay — The Nom- Camp— Ascent of the Ravine — The Party beginning to Fag— The Valley Again — A Slippery Ascent — A Man Lost— Firing Signals — Return to the Vessel . 398

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Return to Loo-Choo — Mails— Departure for Japan — The Island of Ohosima— The Japanese Coast — The Headland of Idzu— Precautionary Measures— Cape Sagaml— The Bay of Yedo — Approach to Uraga— A Hint — The Squadron Halts— Japanese Boats— A Talk at the Gangway— The Vice Governor of Uraga— His Reception— The Boats Repulsed— Japanese Boatmen— Watch-fires— Tezaim on, Governor of ■rjraga — Consultations — An Express to Tedo— The Emperor appoints a Commissioner —Permission to Land — Skilful Negotiations— Scenery of the Bay— The Fortifications—The Peak of Fusi-Tamma— Canvas Defences— A Surveying Party— Sounding along Shore— Forts and Soldiers— Threatened Collision— A Second Survey — A Mirage— Warlike Appearances — Lieut Bent's Encounter with Forty-five Japanese BoatB — Result of the Survey, 410

CHAPTER XXXIV.

The Day of Landing — Preparations on Shore — The Bight of Gori-hama — Japanese Military Display — Arrival of the Governors — Their Official Dresses — Precautions on Board— The Procession of Boats — An Inspiring Scene— The Landing— Numbers

SV1 CONTENTS.

of the Escort — The Japanese Troops — The Commodore's Landing — March to the House of Reception — Japanese Body-Guard — The Hall of Audience — Two Japanese Princes — Delivery of the President's Letter — An Official Conversation — Return to the Squadron, 424

CHAPTER XXXT.

The Japanese Officers on Board— Their Manners — Their Dislike to the Chinese — Their Swords — Their Curiosity — Passing: up the Bay — Beauty of the Scenery — "Perry's Bay " — Junks hound for Yedo — Another Visit — Further Surveys — The Natives— An Excursion towards Yedo — Extent and Capacity of the Upper Bay — Change of Anchorage — The Surveys Proceed — Interchange of Presents — A Dilemma — Final Satisfaction — Farewell of the Japanese Officials — Commodore Perry's Diplomacy- Departure from Japan — A Multitude of Boats — Oosima — The Islands off the Bay — Discoveries — Formation of the Group — We Sail for Ohosima — A Typhoon — Return to Loo-Choo — The Second Visit to Japan, 433

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Negotiations with the New Regent— Capt, Hall's Account of Loo-Choo — Napoleon's Incredulity — Its Correctness — Verification of the Japanese Chronicle— The Three Castles — The Government of Loo-Choo — Provisions for the Squadron — Duplicity of the Officials— The Markets Deserted— The Spies— The Telegraph and Daguerreotype in Loo-Choo— Demands of Commodore Perry— The Regent's Reply — The Commodore successful — A Scene in the Market-place— Chase and Capture of a Spy —The Coal Depot— Exhibition of Loo-Choo Industry— National Contrasts— Steamship Line across the Pacific, 445

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Return to Hong Kong— End of the Cruise— Experience of Naval Life— My Duties on Board— " General Quarters "—Onr Crew— Decline of Naval Discipline— False System of Promotion— Delays— What is Needed— Harmony of Government at Sea— The Abolition of Corporeal Punishment-Want of an EfHcient Substitute— Government on Sea and Land— Mr. Kennedy's Proposal for Registered Seamen— Effect of Long Cruises— Need of Small Vessels in Chinese Waters, .... 456

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Impressions of Hong-Kong— A Man Drowned at Midnight— Hong-Kong from the Water— The town of Victoria— The Island of Hong-Kong— The Hong-Kong Fever- Hospitality of Foreign Residents in China— Their Princely Style of Living— Rigid Social Etiquette— Balls— Tropical Privileges— The Anglo-Saxon Abroad, ' . 466

CHAPTEP. XXXIX.

Movements of the Squadron— Uumsingmoon— The Naval Hospital at Macao— Quiet Lifc-A Chinese Beggar-The Band— The Memories of Macao-Situation of the Town— Its Appearance— Desertion of the Place— Its Tropical Gardens— The Campo-The Temple of Wang Ilya-Anccdoto of Cushing-Society in Macao— Chinese All-Souls' Day-Discordant Noiscs-The Grotto of CamoSns-The Casa Gardens- The Grotto at Daybreak— French Irreverence— Preparations to Return Home- Leaving the Naval Service-Trips to Hong-Kong and Cumsingmoon, . 474

CONTENTS. XV11

CHAPTER XL.

Increase of the Squadron — Disposition of the Vessels — Passage to Canton — First Yiew of the City— The Foreign Factories— Old and New China Streets— Talking " Pigeon English" — The Great Temple of Honan — Ceremonies of the Priests— Sacred Books and Pigs— The Lotas Blossom — Dwellings of the Priests— A Retired Abbot— Opium Smoking in China — The Opinm-Pipe — Flavor and Fascination of the Drug— Its Effects— A Walk around Canton— The Walls— Entering the City— Foreign Devils — A Tea-House — Beyond the Suburbs — A Chinese Panorama — The Feast of Lanterns— Dr. Parker's Hospital— The Eve of Departure, . . 486

CHAPTER XLI.

Farewell to China — Whaiupoa — A Musical Good-Bye — The Boguo Forts — The Last Link — The China Sea — Life on the Sea-Serpent — The Straits of Mindoro — Picturesque Islands — Calm Sailing — Moonlight in the Tropics — " Summer Isles of Eden " —The Sooloo Sea— The Cagayanes Islands1— Straits of Basilan — Mindanao— A Native Proa — The Sea of Celebes — Entering the Straits of Macassar — Crossing the Equator — Off Celebes — Lazy Life — The Java Sea — Passing the Thousand Islands — Approach to the Straits of Sunda, ......... 500

CHAPTER XLII.

Entering the Straits of Sunda — Malay Boats — The Mangosteen — Bargaining with the Natives — Scenery of the Straits— Augier — Passing the Straits — Death on Board — The Indian Ocean — A Submarine Earthquake — A Tropical Sunset — A Fatal Escape — The Trade Wind — Mozambique Channel — The Coast of Africa — Doubling the Cape — Southern Constellations — Distant Tiew of Table Mountain — On the Atlantic — The Trades again — Restoration — A Slaver, 511

CHAPTER XLIII.

Proposed Call at St Helena — First Yiew of the Island — Its Cliffs — Approach to Jamestown— View from the Anchorage — Landing — The Town and Ravine — Ascending the Gorge — Looking Down — " The Briars" — Summit of the Island — Pastoral Landscape— Sea-Yiew — Approach to Longwood — Reception — The Billiard-Room — Scene of Nappleon's Death — His Bedroom — Desecration of Longwood — The New Residence The Longwood Farm — The " Crown and Rose " — National Peculiarities —

The Grave of Napoleon — The Old Woman's Welcome — Condition of the Grave — St, Helena Literature— The Old Woman's Admirable Story— Napoleon's Spring- Return to Jamestown— Departure from the Island, 520

CHAPTER XLIY.

Trade Weather— Phosphorescence of the Sea— Ocean Nymphs— Butterflies in Mid- Ocean The North-East Trades — A Gale off the Bermudas — Nautical Alms-Giving

The Gulf Stream— Escape from Cape Hatteras — Fair Wind— Winter Weather —

The Last Day of the Voyage— Landing in NewtYork— Retrospect, . . 584

INDIA, CHINA, AND JAPAN.

Chapter I. The Ovebland Route To India

Leaving Gibraltar — Voyage up the Mediterranean— Landing at Alexandria — Distribution of Passengers — A Cloudy Day in Egypt— A Joyful Meeting — The Desert Vans— "We Start for Suez — Cockney Fears — The Eoad and Station-houses — Suez — Transfer to the India Steamers — Our Passengers and Crew — The Mountains of Horeb — EedSea "Weather and Scenery — A Glimpse of Mocha— The Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb— An Extinct Hades— The Fortress of Aden— -Arrival— The Somali— Eide to the Old Town — Population of Aden— Temperature— The Fortifications— The Track of the Anglo- Saxon — Departure— Disregard of Life — Araby the Blest — Life on the Achilles — Approach to India— Land !— The Ghauts of Malabar — Arrival at Bombay.

My passage to Bombay had been secured a month before; the ticket was in my pocket ; the horses I had ridden from Granada had gone back under charge of Jose, my merry guide and groom; and finally, on the 27th of November, 1852, the mail steamer from Southampton to Alexandria, two days overdue, was signalled from the top of Gibraltar Rock. There was no tie to bind me to Europe : my travelling trunk was already packed, my bill paid, and the needful stock of Gibraltar cigars laid in. My face was turned eastward once more, but I looked beyond the Orient, to those elder lands of India and Cathay, where the sun of Egypt and of Greece first rose. Long before the outward-bound passengers had finished their rambles in the Alameda, I went out the watergate of the town, and the sunset-gun found me impatiently pacing the deck of the Haddington.