Pedestrian Tour in Europe. Views a-foot, or Europe seen with knapsack and staff ... with a preface by N. P. Willis. Twelfth edition with additions

Preface

BY N. P. WILLIS. Jog od, jog on, the foot-path way. And merrily heot the stile-a ; A merry heart goes all the day. Your sad tires in a mile-a. Winter's Tai-e. TWELFTH EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS, AND A PORTRAIT FROM A SKETCH BT T. B. READ. COMPLETE IN ONE VOL. NEW-YORK : GEORGE P. PUTNAM, 155 BROADWAY, And 142 Strand, London. 1851. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1846, by WILEY AND PUTNAM, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. TO FRANK TAYLOR, THESE RECORDS OF THE PILGRIMAGE. WHOSE TOILS AND ENJOYMENTS WE HAVE SHARED TOGETHER, ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED, Bt HIS RELATIVE 4.ND FRIEND. TO THE READER. In presenting to the public a new and improved edition of this record of his wanderings, the author could not justly suffer the opportunity to go by, without expressing his grateful acknowledgment of the kindness with which his work has been received.

Although his aim was simply to give a narrative of personal experience, which it was hoped might be of some value to many a toiling student in the college of the world, he was aware that it would be considered a test of his literary ability, and that whatever hearing he might have hoped to obtain for the works of maturer years, would be de pendent on its success. With a total ignorance of the arts of book-making, and uncertain whether a new voice from the track where thousands had been before him, would find a patient auditory, it was therefore not without con siderable anxiety that he gave his volume to the world. But he was not prepared to hope for such an immediate and generous favor as it received. By the press of our own country, as well as the more rigid reviewers of Great Britain, whatever merits it possesses were cordially appreciated, while its faults were but lightly touched — perhaps from a sympathy with the youth of the author and the plan of his enthusiastic pilgrimage.

But what was most grateful of all, he learned that many another young and hopeful spirit had been profited and encouraged by his own experience, and was ready to try the world with as little dependence on worldly means. The letters he received from persons whose hopes and circumstances were what his own had been, gave welcome evidence that he had not written in vain. He will not say that this knowledge repaid him for whatever toil and hardship he had undergone ; whoever is subjected to the same experience will learn that it brings its own reward to the mind ; — but it will nerve him henceforth to bear any lot, however severe, through which he may be enabled to say a word that shall cheer or strengthen another. He is now fully aware how much he has omitted from these pages, which would have been curious and perhaps instructive to the reader ; — how many blunders of inexperience ; how much thoughtless confidence in the world ; TO THE READER.

IV how many painful struggles with pride, and a too-selfish independence ; how many strange extremities of want and amusing expedients of relief. His reluctance to relate much that was entirely personal and could not have been told without some little sacrifice of feeling, has since been regretted, from the belief that it might have been useful to others. Perhaps, however, it will be better that each one should learn these lessons for himself. There is a sensation of novelty, which, even in the most embarrassing situations, produces a desperate kind of enjoyment, and in addition to this, the sufferer s sympathies for humanity are very much deepened and enlarged by an ac quaintance with its trials. In preparing the present edition of his book, the author at first contem plated a complete revision.

The fact that seven editions had been sold in a year and a half from the publication, seemed to require that he should make such improvements as his riper judgment suggested, and which should render it more worthy of so extensive a circulation. But further reflection con vinced him that it would be best to make httle change. It was written during his wanderings — partly by the wayside, when resting at mid-day, and partly on the rough tables of peasant inns, in the stillness of deserted ruins, or amid the sublime solitude of the mountain-top. It thus reflects faithfully the impress of his own mind, in every part of the journey, and he would prefer that it should remain a boyish work, however lacking in finish of composition, rather than risk taking away whatever spirit it may have caught from nature.

Some particulars, which have been desired by persons about to undertake a similar journey, and which may be generally interesting, have been given in a new chapter at the close. With this addition, and that of a sketch illustrating the costume of a pedestrian, which has been made by a poet and artist friend, the work is again given to the public. The author may hereafter be better able to deserve their commendation. IDs wanderings are not yet over. New-York, August, 18415

PREFACE.

BY N. P. WILLIS. The book which follows, requires little or no introduction. It tells its own story, and tells it well. The interest in it, which induces the writer of this preface to be its usher to the public, is simply that of his having chanced to be among the first appreciators of the author's talent — an appreciation that has since been so more than justified, that the writer is proud to call the author of this book his friend, and bespeak attention to the peculiar energies he has displayed in travel and authorship. Mr. Taylor's poetical productions while he w*as still a printer's apprentice, made a strong impression on the writer's mind, and he gave them their due of praise accordingly in the newspaper of which he was then Editor. Some correspondence ensued, and other fine pieces of writ ing strengthened the admiration thus awakened, and when the young poet-mechanic came to the city, and modestly an nounced the bold determination of visiting foreign lands— with means, if they could be got, but with reliance on manual labor if they could not — the writer, understanding the man, and seeing how capable he was of carrying out his manly and enthusiastic scheme, and that it would work uncorruptingly for the improvement of his mind and cha racter, counselled him to go. He went — his book tells how successfully for all his' purposes. He has returned, after two ▼i

PREFACE.

. years' absence, with large knowledge of the world, of men and of manners, with a pure, invigorated and healthy mind, having passed all this time abroad, and seen and accomplished more than most travelers, at the cost of only $500, and this sum earned on the road. This, in the writer's opinion, is a fine instance of character and energy. The book, which records the difficulties and struggles of a printer's apprentice achieving this, must be interesting to Americans. The pride of the country is in its self-made men. What Mr. Taylor is, or what he is yet to become, can not well be touched upon here, but that it will yet be written, and on a bright page, is, of course, his own confident hope and the writer's confident expectation. The book, which is the record of his progress thus far. is now cordially com mended to the public, and it will be read, perhaps, more understandingly after a perusal of the following outline sketch of the difficulties the author had to contend with — a letter written in reply to a note from the writer asking for some of the particulars of his start and progress : To.

Mr. Willis,— My dear Sir : — Nearly three years ago (in the beginning of 1844) the time for accomplishing my long cherished desire of visitinc Europe, seemed to arrive. A cousin, who had long intended going abroad, was to leave in a few months, and although I was then surrounded by the most unfavorable circumstances. I determined to accompany him, at whatever hazard. T haa still two years of my apprenticeship to serve out ; I was en tirely without means, and my project was strongly opposed by my friends., as something too visionary to be practicable

PREFACE.

. VII A short time before, Mr. Griswold advised me to pub lish a small volume of youthful effusions, a few of which had appeared in Graham's Magazine, which he then edited ; the idea struck me, that by so doing, I might, if they should be favorably noticed, obtain a newspaper correspondence which would enable me to make the start. The volume was published ; a sufficient number was sold among my friends to defray all expenses, and it was chari tably noticed by the Philadelphia press. Some literary friends, to whom I confided my design, promised to aid me with their influence. Trusting to this, I made arrangements for leaving the printing-office, which I succeeded in doing, by making a certain compensation for the remainder of my time. I was now fully confident of success, feeling satisfied, that a strong will would always make itself a way.

After many applications to different editors and as many disap pointments, I finally succeeded, about two weeks before our departure, in making a partial engagement. Mr. Chandler of the United States Gazette and Mr. Patterson of the Satur day Evening Post, paid me fifty dollars, each, in advance for twelve letters, to be sent from Europe, with the probability of accepting more, if these should be satisfactory. This, with a sum which I received from Mr. Graham for poems published in his Magazine, put me in possession of about a hundred and forty dollars, with which I determined to start, trusting to future remuneration for letters, or if that should fail, to my skill as a compositor, for I supposed I could at the worst, work my way through Europe, like the German handwerker. Thus, with another companion, we left home, an enthusiastic and hopeful trio. I need not trace our wanderings at length. After eight months of suspense, during which time my small means were

PREFACE.

entirely exhausted, I received a letter from Mr. Patterson, continuing the engagement for the remainder of my stay, with a remittance of one hundred dollars from himself and Mr. Graham. Other remittances, received from time to time, enabled me to stay abroad two years, during which I traveled on foot upwards of three thousand miles in Germany, Switzerland, Italy and France. I was obliged, however, to use the strictest economy — to live on pilgrim fare, and do penance in rain and cold. My means several times entirely failed; but I was always relieved from serious difficulty through unlooked-for friends, or some unexpected turn of fortune. At Rome, owing to the expenses and embarrass ments of traveling in Italy, I was obliged to give up my original design of proceeding on foot to Naples and across the peninsula to Otranto, sailing thence to Corfu and making a pedestrian journey through Albania and Greece.

But the main object of my pilgrimage is accomplished ; I visited the principal places of interest in Europe, enjoyed her grandest scenery and the marvels of ancient and modern art, became familiar with other languages, other customs and other in stitutions, and returned home, after two years' absence, willing !.o*v TJtb satisfied curiosity, to resume life in America. Yours, most sincerely, J. Bayaru Taylor. 30NTENTS. PAGE ,HAPTER I.— The Voyage 1 II. — A Day in Ireland & III. — Ben Lomond and the Highland Lakes ... 13 IV.— The Burns' Festival 23 V. — Walk from Edinburgh over the Border and mival at London . 29 VI.— Some of the " Sights" of London ... 38 VII.— Flight through Belgium 46 VIII.— The Rhine to Heidelberg 52 IX. — Scenes in and around Heidelberg . . . , 58 X.— A Walk through the Odenwald 61 XI. — Scenes in Frankfort — An American Composer — The Poet Freiligrath 73 XII. — A week among the Students 82 XIII. — Christmas and New Year in Germany .... 89 XIV. — Winter in Frankfort — A Fair, an InundatknuidaFire 94 XV. — The Dead and the Deaf— Mendelssohn the Composer 104 XVI. — Journey on Foot from Frankfort to Cassel . . 109 XVII. — Adventures among the Hartz .... 115 XVIII. — Notes in Leipsic and Dresden 125 XIX. — Rambles in the Saxon Switzerland ... 134 XX.— Scenes in Prague 143 XXI. — Journey through Eastern Bohemia and Moravia to the Danube ™ XXII.— Vienna l56 XXIII.— Up the Danube 1?1 XXIV.— The Unknown Student I78 XXV.— The Austrian Alps 183 XXVL— Munich CONTENTS. X PAOE

CHAPTER XXVII.

— Through Wurtemberg to Heidelberg . . 205 XXVIII.— Freiburg and the Black Forest . * . 213 XXIX.— People and Places in Eastern Switzerland . 221 XXX.— Passage of the St Gothard and descent into Italy 231 XXXI.— Milan 242 XXXII.— Walk from Milan to Genoa .... 247 XXXIII.— Scenes in Genoa, Leghorn and Pisa . . 252 XXXIV.— Florence and its Galleries .... 262 XXXV.— A Pilgrimage to Vallombrosa .... 272 XXXVI.— Walk to Siena and Pratolino— Incidents in Floence . 281 XXXVII.— American Art in Florence .... 292 XXXVIII.— An Adventure on the Great St. Bernard— Walks around Florence 300 XXXIX. — Winter Traveling among the Appenines . . 308 XL.— Rome 319 XLI. — Tivoli and the Roman Campagna . . ■ 333 XLII. — Tivoli and the Roman Campagna (continued) 341 XLIII. — Pilgrimage to Vaucluse and Journey up the Rhone 347 XLIV. — Traveling in Burgundy — The Miseries of a Country Diligence 359 XLV. — Poetical Scenes in Paris .... 465 XLVI.— A Glimpse of Normandy .... 372 XLVII. — Lockhart, Bernard Barton and Croly — London Chimes and Greenwich Fair . . . 376 XLIX. — Advice and Information for Pedestrians .

Chapter I. The Voyage

An enthusiastic desire of visiting the Old World haunted me from early childhood. I cherished a presentiment, amounting almost to belies, that I should one day behold the scenes, among which my fancy had so long wandered. The want of means was for a time a serious check to my anticipations ; but I could not content myself to wait until I had slowly accumulated so large a sum as tourists usually spend on their travels. It seemed to me that a more humble method of seeing the world would place within the power of almost every one, what has hitherto been deemed the privilege of the wealthy few. Such a journey, too, offered advantages for becoming acquainted with people as well as places — for observing more intimately, the effect of gov ernment and education, and more than all, for the study of hu man nature, in every condition of life.

At length I became pos sessed of a small sum, to be earned by letters descriplive of things abroad, and on the 1st of July, 1844, set sail for Liverpool, with a relative and friend, whose circumstances were somewhat similar to mine. How far the success of the experiment and the object of our long pilgrimage were attained, these pages will show. LAND AND SEA. There are springs that rise in the greenwood's heart, Where its leafy glooms are cast, And the branches droop in the solemn air, Unstirred by the sweeping blast. •2 There are hills that lie in the noontide calm, On the lap of the quiet earth ; And, crown'd with gold by the ripened grain, Surround my place of birth. Dearer are these to my pining heart, Than the beauty of the deep, When the moonlight falls in a belt of gold On the waves that heave in sleep.

The rustling talk of the clustered leaves That shade a well-known door, Is sweeter far than the booming sound Of the breaking wave before. When night on the ocean sinks calmly down, I climb the vessel's prow, Where the foam-wreath glows with its phosphor light, Like a crown on a sea-nymph's brow. Above, through the lattice of rope and spar, The stars in their beauty burn ; And the spirit longs to ride lheir beams, And back to the loved return. They say that the sunset is brighter far When it sinks behind the sea ; That the stars shine out wit j a softer fire — Not thus they seem to me. Dearer the flush of the crimson west Through trees that my childhood knew, When the star of love, with its silver lamp, Lights the homes of the tried and true ! Could one live on the sense of beauty alone, exempt from the necessity of " creature comforts," a seavoyage would be delight ful.

To the landsman there is sublimity in the wild and ever varied forms of the ocean ; they fill his mind with living images of a glory he had only dreamed of before. But we would have been willing to forego all this and get back the comforts of the shore. At New York we took passage in the second cabin of the Oxford, which, as usual in the Liverpool packets, consisted of a small space amid-ships, fitted up with rough, temporary berths. The communication with the deck is by an open hatch way, which in storms is closed down. As the passengers in this . . ; ■ i cttWlu i.i.-m-i, Uifth own provisions, wo made nuttselves acquainted will) thi.' cwjjilints us certain storehouses ijn f'iiv St. wharf. u>..| pnroba ed alar* \ Dsipravfeions, WhicR was stowed a#try under our iiiirinw Infill. Tin' etioU. fbr>a arrraJl &orrqiBDSUtloni loals aq himself the charge us preparingihem, ami we atmie ijnr-._tveB as romftirtahbj &i > i<<- .. i, ... ■. ,|., 1 1, dwelling wnnld adnUI As wo approached tfte Banks of Dfl.BW'foiJMdlanil: a Bale tvroa « ■InVIi Eir iw'u >l:i_\r-. mill njglils • ; i r » i ■ I us on; cOtfi ering Mn '• 1 1 ■ like, op hill ami .j. .mii Thr gea broliwl trulj raajjtilsioi m, ,il. th'Mi-h Qia sailors told us ii trad Qfttbfpg al nil En Bompariaan w jth Uti loriue oi wiat&r. hm «.; v,.-iv h., i permitted le pass the similes, with. ml .- . |..i anon-j . a.r i.f'lhe OftllRS, Ills which thai lielgh barhnnd is noted, For Ihrca days >y<: laj altnwt rnatiBoIesswi the . o iti-i soraetiroe? surrounded bj large docks of swa gjilte Th. im i d hrtftigftl h\ the golf sti'Ltuu, Hunted irojirul — -• Ihtiih.Iii.= »i iUhiI up, \u-re full i>t bi rutl ■">"■■ i 1 1 1 ■ 1 . hells.

(Jute a large jehooj of black-fish cdtns Srannri tin w- ... I, and ll* i p. -ntiT olhriUed down on the soiv-'-liain-, with n Ii.hihii.ii \o strike in .Scarcely hail h, 1.,1.,-n his pasilloi] wbfiJ] ih, ■, all darted .i , ..ijht lint', through 'I"' iwto >' ffi n bbub ohi i I ■ hi I h said ihi'y smell the harpoon,. \\ i oeoagr&tulated ourselves on having ranched the Bank* m - • i .1 .-,-..., it is consul. HI .1 the lOItgegl l.'lir I |'.U'1 "f the ,,, 15ui the liopss' of n-ai-hiii': Lift t] l in twenty d»j .. m n si„, ii i-i\, ..■•llin.iivn. A Succ-ssion Qf :-'iiiI1htI\ ivili-J., ill.,!, th- VBWil as lav mirth as lat. 53 deg., Without brhjglrig nS 1 Ii HI . '!l .1. -tuialinn. It was !•• I, . .1 I, sot W.-M, n hin sr. ■■■ ii - b of the laii'iM'i, ut (.iri.-ciil.-inl. nnd tit laug northern ,,,r,il,,r ,, M I'll.

LtSl L'low . .(' ill.' 'MIIII1L', luili-hl h. -I fad d b La-.: the inst yiini.M i.ij al '.hnMi appeared* 1 found it s\ii'.ni..i\ easy :•■ ft ad, ai Iff P. M . on ths d&ak. \\ i h...;i mill u diversion an i.mu.l from ■> company of fow% In dian under ihe pedpbnUcrf chief " Whliis <.'i.aiii. ' vho ■ << a m-ii |a I'ai'ji.uwi 'i'ji, s are irul) a wild enough looking com- I my, mil iii'i|.ni m-ii a linh ra rj I'nrvo lite tediu f the pas .• 'CI,,. , hi. i • ' i »Bq grava nnd tQgoified petaou, buj iWitt of Hi., i,. . ii V ertOdgll- 'hi'' ''ay we liu'l ti war-J. mi B nil dtel,, wlii.Ji tta.-. tUOa In. IU6 SCeJBS 't'h.- chit! Bsld ll." braves sat upon the deck, beating violently a small drum and howl ing forth their war-song, while the others in full dress, painted in a grotesque style, leaped about, brandishing tomahawks and spears, and terminating each dance with a terrific yell.

Some of the men are very fine-looking, but the squaws are all ugly. They occupied part of the second cabin, separated only by a board partition from our room. This proximity was any thing but agreeable. They kept us awake more than half the night, by singing and howling in the most dolorous manner, with the accompaniment of slapping their hands violently on their bare breasts. We tried an opposition, and a young German student, who was returning home after two years' travel in America, made our room ring with the chorus from Der Freischiitz — but in vain. They would howl and beat their breasts, and the pap poose would squall. Any loss of temper is therefore not to be wondered at, when I state that I could scarcely turn in my berth, much less stretch myself out ; my cramped limbs alone drove off half the night's slumber.

It was a pleasure, at least, to gaze on their strong athletic frames. Their massive chests and powerful limbs put to shame our dwindled proportions. One old man, in particular, who seemed the patriarch ofthe band, used to stand for hours on the quarter deck, sublime and motionless as a statue of Jupiter. An interesting incident occurred during the calm of which I spoke. They began to be fearful we were doomed to remain there for ever, unless the spirits were invoked for a favorable wind. Ac cordingly the prophet lit his pipe and smoked with great delib eration, muttering all the while in a low voice. Then, havino* obtained a bottle of beer from the captain, he poured it solemnly over the stern of the vessel into the sea. There were some indi cations of wind at the time, and accordingly the next mornino we had a fine breeze, which the Iowas attributed solely to the Prophet's incantation and Eolus' love of beer.

After a succession of calms and adverse winds, on the 25th we were off the Hebrides, and though not within sight of land the southern winds came to us strongly freighted with the " meadow freshness" of the Irish bogs, so we could at least smell it. That day the wind became more favorable, and the next morning FIRST SIGHT OF LAND 5 we were all roused out of our berths by sunrise, at the long wished-for cry of " land !" Just under the golden flood of light that streamed through the morning clouds, lay afar-off and indistinct the crags of an island, with the top of a light-house visible at one extremity. To the south of it, and barely distinguishable, so completely was it blended in" hue with the veiling cloud, loomed up a lofty mountain. I shall never forget the sight ! As we drew nearer, the dim and soft outline it first wore, was broken into a range of crags, with lofty precipices jutting out to the sea, and sloping off inland.

The white wall of the light-house shone in the morning's light, and the foam of the breakers dashed up at the foot ofthe airy cliffs. It was worth all the troubles of a long voyage, to feel the glorious excitement which this herald of new scenes and new adventures created. The light-house was on Tory Island, on the north-western coast of Ireland. The Cap tain decided on taking the North Channel, for, although rarely done, it was in our case nearer, and is certainly more interesting than the usual route. We passed the Island of Ennistrahul, near the entrance of Londonderry harbor, and at sunset saw in the distance the islands of Islay and Jura, off the Scottish coast. Next morning we were close to the promontory of Fairhead, a bold, precipitous head land, like some ofthe Palisades on the Hudson ; the highlands of the Mull of Cantire were on the opposite side ofthe Channel, and the wind being ahead, we tacked from shore to shore, running so near the Irish coast, that we could see the little thatched huts, stacks of peat, and even rows of potatoes in the fields.

It was a panorama : the view extended for miles inland, and the fields of different colored grain were spread out before us, a brilliant mo saic. Towards evening we passed Ailsa Crag, the sea-bird's home, within sight, though about twenty miles distant. On Sunday, the 28th, we passed the lofty headland of the Mull of Galloway and entered the Irish Sea. Here there was an oc currence of an impressive nature. A woman, belonging to the steerage, who had been ill the whole passage, died the morning before. She appeared to be of a very avaricious disposition, though this might indeed have been the result of self-denial, practised through filial affection. In the morning she was speechless, and while they were endeavoring to persuade her to give up her keys to the captain, died. In her pocket were found two parcels, containing forty sovereigns, sewed up with the most miserly care.

It was ascertained she had a widowed mother in the north of Ireland, and judging her money could be better applied than to paying for a funeral on shore, the captain gave orders for com mitting the body to the waves. It rained drearily as her corpse. covered with starred bunting, was held at the gangway while the captain read the funeral service ; then one plunge was heard, and a white object flashed up through the dark waters, as the ship passed on. In the afternoon we passed the Isle of Man, having a beautiful view of the Calf, with a white stream tumbling down the rocks into the sea ; and at night saw the sun set behind the mountains of Wales. About midnight, the pilot came on board, and soon after sunrise I saw the distant spires of Liverpool. The Welsh coast was studded with windmills, all in motion, and the harbor spotted with buoys, bells and floating lights.

How delightful it was to behold the green trees on the banks of the Mersey, and to know that in a few hours we should be on land ! About 11 o'clock we came to anchor in the channel of the Mersey, near the docks, and after much noise, bustle and confusion, were trans ferred, with our baggage, to a small steamboat, giving a partino* cheer to the Iowas, who remained on board. On landing, I stood a moment to observe the scene. The baggagewagons, drawn by horses, mules and donkeys, were extraordinary ; men were o-oino about crying " the celebrated Tralorum gingerbread /" which they carried in baskets; and a boy in the University dress, with long blue gown and yellow knee-breeches, was running to the wharf to look at the Indians. At last the carts were all loaded, the Avord was given to start and then, what a scene ensued !

Away went the mules the horses and the donkeys ; away ran men and women and children carrying chairs and trunks, and boxes and bedding. The wind was blowing, and the dust whirled up as they dashed helter skelter through the gate and started off on a hot race, down the dock to the depot. Two wagons came together, one of which was overturned, scattering the broken boxes of a Scotch familv LANDING. 7 over the pavement ; but while the poor woman was crying over her loss, the tide swept on, scarcely taking time to glance at the mishap. Our luggage was " passed" with little trouble ; the officer merely opening the trunks and pressing his hands on the top. Even some American reprints of English works which my com panion carried, and feared would be taken from him, were passed over without a word.

I was agreeably surprised at this, as from the accounts of some travellers, I had been led to fear horrible things of custom-houses. This over, we took a stroll about the city. I was first struck by seeing so many people walking in the middle ofthe streets, and so many gentlemen going about with pinks stuck in their button-holes. Then, the houses being all built of brown granite or dark brick, gives the town a sombre appearance, which the sunshine (when there is any) cannot dis pel. Of Liverpool we saw little. Before the twilight had wholly faded, we were again tossing on the rough waves of the Irish Sea.

Chapter II

A DAY IN IRELAND. On calling at the steamboat office in Liverpool, to take passage to Port Rush, we found that the fare in the fore cabin was but two shillings and a half, while in the chief cabin it was six times as much. As I had started to make the tour of all Europe with a sum little higher than is sometimes given for the mere passage to and fro, there was no alternative — the twenty-four hours' discom fort could be more easily endured than the expense, and as I expected to encounter many hardships, it was best to make a beginning. 1 had crossed the ocean with tolerable comfort for twenty-four dollars, and was determined to try whether England, where I had been told it was almost impossible to breathe without expense, might not also be seen by one of limited means. The fore cabin was merely a bare room, with a bench along one side, which was occupied by half a dozen Irishmen in knee breeches and heavy brogans.