Around the world via Siberia

Contents

CHAPTER

PAGE

I. The Nature and Need of Rest— Travel as a Means of Rest— Traveling Companions— The Proposed Journey— The Climate of Chicago— New York City— The Waldorf-Astoria— The "Barbarossa" 13

Chapter I

THE NATURE AND NEED OF REST — TRAVEL AS A MEANS OF REST — TRAVELING COMPANIONS — THE PROPOSED JOURNEY — THE CLIMATE OF CHICAGO — NEW YORK CITY — THE WALDORF- ASTORIA — THE "BARBAROSSA."

0?if what is more sweet than when the mind, set free from care, lays its burden down, and, when spent with distant travel^ we come back to our home and rest our limbs on the wished for bed? This, this alone, repays such toils as these/ — Catullus.

Labor's greatest reward is rest. Toil is one of the fruits of man's first disregard of the w^ill of his Creator. "And to Adam he said: Because thou hast hearkened to the voice of thy Wiie, and hast eaten of the tree whereof I commanded thee that thou shouldst not eat, cursed is the earth in thy work; with labor and toil shalt thou eat thereof all the days of thy life."

This curse has become , a common inheritance. None is exempt from it. Wealth may lighten the burden, but cannot escape it. Some toil with their hands, others with their brain, and of the two classes the endurance of the latter is taxed most severely. This curse does not affect all alike. Ambition aggravates it, contentment lightens it. Physical toil brings rest and sleep, severe mental labor only too often becomes the mother of unrest and loss of sleep. The happiest man is he who by the sweat of his face earns his daily bread, who enjoys his frugal meals, and who spends one-third of his lifetime unconscious of the world he lives in.

The plain, hard couch of the laboring classes bears more refreshing sleep than the luxurious beds of the wealthy. The tiredness following bodily labor is quickly repaired by a night's sleep; the exhaustion incident to mental strain chases away nature's restorer and often requires a long rest to restore the mind to its normal balance and power.

What is rest.'' What is rest for one is toil for another. The laborer requires physical rest. A healthy man can labor eight or ten hours out of the twenty-four, and if supplied with the necessary quantity and quality of food, he can continue his occupation indefinitely without detriment to his health. A vacation for a laboring man brings often more harm than good. Only too often the time of such vacations is spent in excesses which are a greater tax on health and strength than the occupation from which he seeks relief.

A short vacation spent in travel and reading is desirable and useful for the laboring man and woman, but not a necessity. An overtaxed brain needs rest. What kind of rest.-* Go to some fashionable seaside or mountain resort.? Go where the rising sun disturbs the sleep of the sleepers and night is turned into day? Bad places for a tired brain.

Brains are fatigued by monotony of work. A weary brain must have change of occupation. The subject of nerve strain must direct the activity of his mind into other channels. Travel, particularly an ocean voyage, is the best remedy for brain fatigue. Physical exercise, walking, and driving are excellent adjuncts. The solitude of the wilderness, combined with fishing and hunting, sports that fatigue the body and rest the brain, are admirably adapted to abstract the mind from the previous monotony of its work.

Rest for the brain means work of a different kind. The professional man, above all others, is entitled to his regular annual vacation. A vacation to him is time well spent. The additional knowledge obtained by travel and observation broadens his mind and prepares him to do more and better work on his return.

Of all professional men, I know of no one who is more in need of rest and recreation than the physician. In the practice of his profession time is never his own. When others rest he works. The responsibility which attends every one of his acts constitutes a strain unknown in the other professions. He is daily brought in contact with pain, suffering, and distress. Every death that occurs in his practice brings up serious thoughts and exercises a depressing influence.

His best services are often rewarded by the grossest ingratitude. The keen competition which exists everywhere forces him to keep pace with the rapidly advancing discoveries, improvements, and innovations of his profession. If the onerous duties to his clients leave any spare hours they are utilized in familiarizing himself with the progress in the art and science of medicine. The physician who has the interests and welfare of his profession at heart chooses a vacation which will secure rest for his weary, troubled brain and at the same time give him an opportunity to increase his knowledge of the various diseases and their treatment.

A leisurely journey from one medical center to another will accomplish this, especially if combined with an ocean voyage. Such an itinerary gives him an opportunity to visit different countries, observe the habits and customs of the people, familiarize himself.

with the advantages and methods of education of different institutions, cultivate the acquaintance of men eminent in his profession as authors, teachers, and practitioners, and observe their methods of treatment. All this requires no special mental effort, and yet fills the storehouse of practical knowledge to a wonderful extent.

Physicians who take frequent vacations with such objects in view will always be found in the front rank of their profession. Little side trips to some of the beauties and wonders of nature will add to the enchantment of such trips.

My coming vacation will be spent on such a mission on a large scale. It is my intention to encircle the world from east to west by the way of the Transsiberian railroad, leaving New York on July 21st on the steamship "Barbarossa," and return to Chicago about Oct. ist via San Francisco or Vancouver. It will not be a race for time. Much time will be spent in the Orient in the study of diseases indigenous to Siberia, Korea, China, and Japan, as well as the hospitals and other medical institutions of those countries. Military matters will also receive special attention.

What a great blessing is afriettd, with a breast so trusty that thou mayest safely bury all thy secrets in iti whose conscience thou mayest fear less than thine own, who can relieve thy cares by his conversation, thy doubts by his counsels, thy sadness by his good humor, aud whose very look gives comfort to thee! — Seneca,

A journey of nearly 22,000 miles through different countries and in varying climes is not one of unalloyed pleasure; it has its dangers as well as its enjoyments. It is a source of great comfort and additional pleasure to travel in company with genial friends, more especially if all have the same object in view. Such is the case with my companions. I consider myself exceedingly fortunate in having with me on this trying journey three friends that I can rely upon under any and all circumstances.

Professor D. R. Brower is one of my colleagues at Rush Medical College, where he occupies the chair of mental and nervous diseases. He is a brilliant lecturer and a most successful teacher. His private practice is large and includes some of the best families in the city. He has now in preparation a text-book on the specialty he so well represents. He is an enthusiastic traveler and has seen much of the world. We made the journey to Moscow to the International Medical Congress in 1897 together and extended our trip to Turkey and Greece. Two years ago he accompanied me to the Sandwich Islands.

Dr. Jacob Frank, of Chicago, is one of our prominent and most successful surgeons, and an original investigator of more than national reputation. He has contributed his good share to the recent innovations in surgery. He is one of the surgeons of the German Hospital and enjoys a large and lucrative practice.

Dr. William M. Mastin, of Mobile, Ala., is the son of the late Claudius H. Mastin, of the same city. His father was one of the ablest and most prominent surgeons in the South. He was one of the charter members of the American Surgical Association and the founder of the Congress of American Physicians and Surgeons.

Dr. Mastin seldom takes a vacation. On two occasions I succeeded in tearing him away from his practice to share with me the pleasures of a few days' hunting in the primitive forests of the South. He needs a prolonged mental rest, and, as he has never crossed the Atlantic before, much awaits him that will be but a repetition to the remaining members of the party until we reach Moscow.

In 1887 the late Carter H. Harrison, father of the present popular mayor of Chicago, felt the need of rest and recreation after fifteen years of arduous public service. He decided to encircle the world, and he did so from west to east. His inquisitive, restless spirit, however, would not let him rest. His fertile brain and facile pen could neither rest nor rust. He wrote a series of articles to the public press of Chicago which attracted a great deal of attention. His keen powers of observation and knowledge of men and politics enabled him to interest and instruct. On his return the material was utilized in writing that charming book, "A Race with the Sun."

The writer cannot expect to accomplish what the favorite citizen of Chicago did, but he confesses that

An incurable itch of scribbling clings to many, and grows inveterate in their distempered breast. — Juvenalis.

He can only promise to observe, judge, criticize, or praise what he will meet and see in his "Race Against the Sun," and communicate from time to time the results of his experiences.

From Moscow to Yokohama the journey will lead by land and water through countries that so far have seldom been visited by Americans. The people and natural resources of Siberia will be carefully studied. The Orient is now in a state of rapid transition. The recent war between the allied forces and China will furnish interesting material for thought and description. The doors of Korea are now open to strangers, and it is my intention to see all I can of its people, so long secluded from the outside world.

In Japan I will have an opportunity to see with my own eyes the wonderful changes wrought by civilization during the last three decades — the new, wide-awake, powerful Japan. If time permits, a visit will be made to the Philippine Islands on our homeward journey.

I do not seek foreign countries for the purpose of obtaining the advantages of a more congenial climate. In the same latitude and the same elevation Chicago is the most healthful of all great cities in the world. The immense expanse of prairie on three sides and the great Lake Michigan on the fourth are conditions which are calculated to render its climate pleasant and salubrious. Occasionally hot weather will set in during the summer months, but it seldom lasts longer than three days without a respite.

Lake Michigan is a great refrigerator, and the cool breezes which pass over its deep bosom fan the sweating brow of the Chicagoan after sundown when he has been exposed to the heat of the day. With the ozonecharged atmosphere that sweeps the prairies and the cool breezes from Lake Michigan and the magnificent hotels along and near the lake, there is nothing lacking to make Chicago, what it really is, an ideal summer resort. I never could understand how people from the South and East could pass through Chicago and seek relief from heat in the small inland towns in northern Illinois and southern Wisconsin. Waukesha, Oconomowoc, and other small inland towns in southern Wisconsin cannot compare with Chicago as a summer resort.

I regard with a sense of sympathy people who pass by the thousands through our beautiful, healthful, thriving city and who annually make a pilgrimage to those localities with an idea of escaping the trying heat of the summer months. If these people would select the Auditorium Hotel, its Annex, the Chicago Beach Hotel, the Palmer House, the Great Northern, the Grand Central, and other hotels of smaller size but equally favorably located, they would find that they had made a change for the better. It is to be hoped that our men of means will erect in Chicago and its immediate vicinity on the shore of invigorating Lake Michigan summer hotels for the benefit of the people from the South.

It will be one of the most important means of bringing about closer relationships commercially and socially between the stirring business men of the greatest business city in the world and the charming people of the South. If it were with me simply a matter of climate I would spend my vacation right here, but I make the long journey around the world for an entirely different purpose— to see and learn.

There is no other country in the world in which traveling is done with more comfort and ease than in the United States. Much has been said against our powerful railway organizations, but there is one thing that must be said to their credit, and that is that they provide more comfort for their passengers than any other railway system in the world. The through trains on any of our great railways are models of comfort, even luxury. The system of checking baggage is an ideal one, and one that every stranger from foreign countries soon learns to appreciate. The dining cars are great, modern restaurants on wheels. The sleeping cars are the best in the world. On some of the great lines will be found a smoking car, library, barber shop, bathroom, in fact, everything that you would look for in a first-class hotel.

In comparing the comforts of travel in the United

States and what awaits us in eastern Siberia and all through the Orient I am filled with the gravest apprehensions. I have seen much of military life during an active campaign and have made many a hunting trip in the primitive forests of our own and foreign countries, but I expect that our little party will have to undergo privations and discomforts during a long part of our journey that will be attended by conditions of which we are at present fortunately ignorant.

I am sure that when we reach San Francisco we will be in a fit condition to realize keenly what our great railways and steamship companies are doing for the traveling public of our great country.

A few days before our departure from Chicago the weather was sultry, the thermometer ranging from 90° to 100°. Deaths from heat-strokes and prostrations were numerous. Perhaps the highest temperature was reached during the forenoon of July ist. A violent thunder-storm and a pouring rain made their appearance shortly after midday. We left on the 5:30 p. m. train on the Michigan Southern railroad. Soon after our departure the temperature increased steadily and was but little modified by a thunder-storm and shower at midnight. From Buffalo to Albany the heat was suffocating. The passengers on the crowded train were almost motionless and listless.

An air of supreme silence reigned throughout. The dining car was more for appearance than actual use. Apollinaris and other cooling drinks were in great demand. Soon after leaving Albany we met a violent thunder-storm and a drenching rain, accompanied by high winds from the northeast. This afforded only temporary relief, as the clouds could not keep pace with our fast train. At Albany we received the consoling information that the heat in New York the day

22 AROUND THE WORLD Vl'A SIBERIA

before was unprecedented in the history of the country. There were victims of sunstroke by the hundreds and nearly eighty deaths in one day.

On arrival at New York we were met by Dr. Carl Beck, a prominent surgeon of that city. He brought us the comforting news that the heated term was subsiding, but the subjective feelings did not corroborate this statement. We hastened to the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel with the expectation of finding relief from the excessive heat. We engaged rooms on the tenth floor of this mammoth hotel, but the heat followed us.

We were told on our arrival here that the thermometer had been dancing in the neighborhood of icx)° for a number of days and that the number of deaths from heat-stroke on that particular day numbered more than one hundred.

We spent a pleasant half hour that evening at the residence of Dr. Carl Beck, where we met a host of his hospital assistants and professional friends.

The Waldorf-Astoria, in my estimation, is the most wonderful hotel in the world. Its relation to the average hotel is about the same as that of a large city to a country village. It is a truly cosmopolitan affair. You will find there all classes of people — the multimillionaire side by side with the would-be millionaire. In looking over the crowded cafe, I, however, received the impression that probably three-fourths of its fre^ quenters had never done a day's work in their life, but were spending freely the money of their well-to-do or rich fathers. It is a magnificent place to rest and sleep, an expensive place to satisfy other personal wants.

It is the kind of hotel Chicago must have in the near future to supply the demands of a critical traveling public. Within two or three blocks from this great hotel can be found restaurants that will answer the expectations of the hungry traveler. If the weather ever takes vengeance on New York it does so in a marked degree during all seasons of the year. I have never suffered more from heat during all my travels — and they have been many and widespread — than in New York, Washington, and Philadelphia. The thermometer in Chicago never tampers with the people to the same extent, and that is why I can never cease recommending to the whole world, and especially to the citizens of the United States, Chicago as an ideal health resort, I do not envy the millionaires who made their money in Chicago and are now spending it in New York purely to enjoy life and gain the favors of the select Four Hundred. They are paying high prices for what they get.

After a somewhat trying journey from Chicago to New York, we have before us the pleasant sea voyage to Bremen. We have met our traveling companion. Dr. William M. Mastin, and the party will be complete when we reach Berlin, where Dr. Jacob Frank is awaiting us.

The "Barbarossa' ' is getting up steam on the Hoboken side, and we will board it at the appointed time. The ship will be crowded, as every available space was secured weeks ahead. When I ascend the bridge on July 4th at ii a. m., I will whisper to all of my friends on this side of the Atlantic:

And the tongue said with low murmurs, ^^ Farewell/"— Ovidius,

Chapter II

GERMANS AND THE FATHERLAND — GERMAN OFFICIALS — THE ARMY — THE KAISER — EDUCATION IN GERMANY — THE NOBIL- ITY—THE MUSTACHE — BREMEN TO BERLIN — THE CAPITAL AND ITS UNIVERSITY.

But ivhere thou cotisidereth everything carefully and thoughtfully^ of all societies none is more important, none more dear than that which unites us with the commonwealth. Our parents, children, relations, and neighbors are dear, but our fatherland embraces the whole round of these endearments, in defense of which who would not dare to die if only he would assist it?

The above quotation from Cicero expresses the feelings of a large, happy group of Germans when, on July 15th, they descended the bridge from the "Barbarossa" v^hich connected America w^ith Germany, and again stood upon the soil of their dear fatherland. What scenes of hearty handshaking and passionate kissing! It was such a welcome as only a German can give to a German. Hundreds of expectant relatives and friends had gathered at the dock and were impatiently awaiting the hour — yes, the minute — when they should meet the absent ones from distant America. Many a heart beat violently and many hot tears of joy were shed when the long-looked-for moment came to greet and welcome relatives and friends.

Our German passengers represented the best class of our German immigrants, our best citizens, men who left their fatherland when young and sought our friendly shore with a firm determination to establish happy homes by honest toil. They succeeded, and after many years enjoyed the greatest of all pleasures — a visit to the home of their birth, a visit to their relatives and friends.

A German always remains a German; he respects and loves his fatherland, although isolated and separated from it by boundless oceans and vast continents. A German heart always remains true to the country where it first commenced to beat until it is silenced by death. As a rule, to which there are few exceptions, a man who is loyal to the country of his birth will be loyal to the country of his adoption.

Patriotism begets patriotism and adapts itself to every and all environments. A sense of duty and obedience is a germ that flourishes on every soil; distance and climate have no influence in retarding its germination, growth, and fructification. Its fruit is the same everywhere — obedience to law and order.

A man who lacks love for his native country is seldom, if ever, inspired with patriotism in the land of his adoption. Our best crop of citizens of foreign birth comes from countries where laws are made to be respected and obeyed. After their visit these Germans will return to their American homes, if they could be made so, better Americans.

The moment the traveler steps on German soil he is impressed with a sense of durability, stability, and permanence by everything he sees and hears. The people are strong, their clothing plain and substantial, the buildings solid, the implements perhaps somewhat clumsy but durable, streets and sidewalks smooth and hard, vehicles strong, the products of the soil nutritious, and even the domestic animals share in this one characteristic feature that typifies Germany everywhere and in everything— durability.

The next thing that appeals to the attention of the visitor from foreign lands is the manner in which the laws of the country are executed and obeyed.

Unquestionably Germany has the most perfect police system in the world. Every policeman can lay claim to an education and training necessary to become efficient in dealing intelligently and finally with refractory elements. The appearance and dignified conduct of the German policeman inspire respect as well as confidence. Treat him in a manner that becomes a representative of law and order and you will always find him a gentleman— not only willing but anxious to serve you in his capacity as a public officer.

Much has been said regarding the arrogance of the railway employes, both in the offices and on the trains. This accusation is unfounded, if the stranger extends to them the courtesies due to a representative of this branch of the government service. What, however, attracts the attention of the stranger more than anything else when he enters Germany is the military arm of the government.

The pride of Germany is its well-equipped, well-drilled army. The German soldier is a soldier in every sense of the word — a soldier from head to foot; when in uniform he never forgets that he is a soldier. His uniform is scrupulously clean, his bearing soldierly, his step a military step wherever he goes. The power of the German army is felt alike whether you look at an individual soldier, a squad, a regiment, or a large body of troops.

Well may Germany feel proud of her army. Its heroic deeds in 1870 remain fresh in the memory of the present generation. It reunited Germany, regained lost possessions, established a new empire, and more than all this it has brought before the world the importance of armed neutrality in maintaining peace.

For the repose of nations cannot be tnaintained without arms, arms without pay, nor pay without taxes. — Tacitus.

Germany has held, and will continue to hold, let us hope, the balance between peace and war for an indefinite period of time. It is certain that no material changes in the geography of Europe can be made without the intervention of the German power. For the present Germany is contented with her European possessions, and when the time comes to divide and absorb existing weak monarchies she will make sure of her share of the spoils. The world, and even Germany herself, has never fully appreciated what was accomplished for Europe by the Franco-Prussian war, which curtailed the influence of a less desirable rival power and united the countries of one language and common interests into a great empire which has done so much in the extension of civilization and in the promotion of science.

It is to the credit of Germany that hardly a square foot of usable soil is left awaiting the plow. By hard work and proper care the German soil has been maintained in a productive condition, and has * annually rewarded the toil of the laborer.

Germany never was in a more prosperous condition than it is to-day. It ranks third as a manufacturing country. Its exports are increasing annually, as well as its population — the best possible proofs that it has a good government. Take away the host of uniformed officials and the large standing army, and the visitor would hardly know that the country is under the rule of a monarchy. As we are passing through Germany we are charmed by the gardens, orchards, fields, and meadows, clothed in beautiful green, and replete with promise of a rich harvest.

When Emperor Frederick, after a rule of only three months, succumbed to one of the most painful and distressing of all fatal diseases, his youthful son William inherited the crown. The German people and the whole world witnessed the unexpected change with a keen sense of apprehension. It was well known that Prince Bismarck, the greatest of all German statesmen, past and present, had virtually ruled the new empire since its foundation. A clash between the energetic, ambitious young Emperor and the Iron Chancellor was expected. The suspense did not last long. The young Emperor ascended the throne with a firm determination to rule and not to be ruled. He felt that he was competent and well prepared to guide the ship of state without a guardian.

His rule soon demonstrated that he was Emperor not only in name but in reality. He made no mistake in assuming the enormous responsibility he did. He has ruled wisely and well since.

It was a source of great gratification to the people of Germany that before the death of Prince Bismarck the most friendly relations were established between him and the Emperor.

The Emperor is a genuine Hohenzollern, a true German. From his infancy he received the necessary training to prepare him for the exalted office that awaited him. When the call came to serve his country he was ready to assume and discharge the arduous duties of ruler. His reign has been one of uninterrupted success. His country is prosperous and commands at the present time the highest respect among all civilized nations; his people are happy and have learned to admire and love him. Emperor William is often misunderstood. He has been accredited with being too ambitious for war, when in reality every act

BISMARCK MONUMENT IN THE THIER GARDEN.

on his part has invariably been to maintain peace. He has been called eccentric, when in fact his very eccentricities are evidences of the greatness of his genius. He has been charged with egotism, when what might appear in that light by word or deed have been faithful efforts to uphold to his people and the outside world the glory of his army and the greatness of his country.

Emperor William is a patriot, and speaks and acts as such. He is unquestionably the greatest of all European monarchs at the present time. He is a genius. He is a linguist, a scholar, an artist, an archi- ; tect, a sailor, a soldier, a musician, and above all, an | able, earnest statesman.

It has recently been stated that he is a convert to Christian Science. No more absurd accusation could be made. His religious convictions are well grounded. He is familiar with the Scripture, and daily practices its teachings.

Let me say to the German people:

That man is deceived who thinks it slavery to live under a noble prijtce. Liberty never appears in a more gracious form than under a pious prince.

As long as nations will consent to be governed by a monarch Germany should be happy to be ruled by a prince like Emperor William. He will stand for peace as long as such a policy is compatible with the pros- i perity of his country and the welfare and happiness of ; his people, and when he does draw the sword he will be found at the head of his army in the thickest of the fight, leading his host from victory to victory.

Laying all prejudices and national pride aside, there are few indeed who would not readily admit that Germany to-day is the center of science. The many well-equipped universities, all under direct government control, have made it so. The liberality of the government to its higher educational institutions is phenomenal. Foreign nations have been benefited by its liberality.