Our national recreation parks

Front matter

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R NATIONAL

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Preface

This little book conveys the impressions made upon me during a visit to our great national recreation parks — the Yellowstone and Yosemite Valley — during my recent summer vacation. An inspection of these wonderlands can not fail in leaving lasting impressions of their manifold indescribable beauties, exquisite illustrations of natural art and exhaustless resources of nature's ceaseless activities. The many enchanting sceneries defy description, and accounts of the hundreds of mysterious geysers and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the big trees of the Sierras, sound like fairy tales. No visitor who has ever seen these natural parks has ever been disappointed in his expectations. The alpine and subalpine regions, with their great primeval forests, bewitching lakes, the numerous mountain springs and rivers teeming with choicest fish, the charming flora and varied fauna, furnish object-lessons from the book of nature which attract the eye and engage the mind from sunrise to sunset, and the cool nights and pure mountain air will bring back sleep if it has been chased away by

H-I^WO

PREFACE

an exacting, arduous, artificial city life. Nowhere in the world can a vacation of a few weeks be spent more pleasantly and profitably than by a visit to these parks which have been set aside by a generous and far-sighted government as recreation grounds for the benefit of the people. To those who would like to see the most beautiful sceneries and nature's grandest products and exhibitions of art, I would unhesitatingly say: "Come and see."

Chicago^ Christmas^ igoj.

AMONG THE BIG TREES, MARIPOSA GROVE.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Yosemite Valley from Artist's Point Frontispiece

Among the Big Trees, Mariposa Grove Facing Page 10

Overhanging Rock at Glacier Point " " 12 •

Sentinel Rock " " 16

President Roosevelt in Yellowstone Park " " 18

Herd of Mountain Sheep " " 20 '

Riverside Geyser " " 26

Emerald Spring , " " 28

Giant Geyser " " 30

Old Faithful at Sunrise " " 32 /

Gibbon Falls " " 38

Obsidian Cliff " " 40

Gardiner Canyon *' " 42

Golden Gate '* *' 44

Bear Boarders " ' * 48

Canyon of the Yellowstone " " 50 '

Upper Falls of the Yellowstone " * * 52

Point Inspiration and Lower Falls " " 54

Lower Falls of the Yellowstone " " 56 -'

Steamer Zillah on Yellowstone Lake ** ** 64"

Yellowstone Park in Midwinter " " 68

Pines near the Chapel " " 70 '

Herd of Buffalo near Fort Yellowstone " '* 72

Elks— Hay den Valley in Winter '* *' 74

On the Lookout '* ** 76

Elk near Yellowstone Lake * ' * ' 78

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Looking for a New Home Facing Page 82

Grouse Hunting Party in View of Teton Mountains

The "Tetons" from Jackson Lake

A Storm in the Yosemite

Majella, an Old Indian Woman, in Search of Acorns ,

Half Dome

Yosemite Valley after a Snow-storm

Washington Column and Mirror Lake

Wind Playing with Bridal Veil Falls (900 feet). . .

El Capitan

The Hutchings' Cabin, Yosemite Valley

Stairway on Cloud's Rest Trail

Agassiz Column (85 feet)

Upper Yosemite Falls (1,600 feet) and Ice Cone (500 feet)

Yosemite Falls

Washington Column (1,800 feet) and Half Dome (5,000 feet)

Vernal Fall (350 feet)

In the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, from the Wawona

The Grizzly Giant, Mariposa Grove

Wawona with the Stage, Mariposa Grove

Fallen Monarch, Mariposa Grove

Foundation of the Grizzly Giant

116 118

120 124

126 134 136 144 146

OVERHANGING ROCK AT GLACIER POINT.

Introduction

The man who toils with his brain in the bank, the pulpit, the court room, the library, the great mercantile establishments, and last, but not least, at the bedside of the sick or in the operating room, is the one above all others in need of an occasional rest, change of mental activity and surroundings. Men who ignore nature's warnings and appeals for rest, sooner or later are made to pay dearly for their neglect, and only too often mend their ways when it is too late. Brain toil means the prolonged strenuous application of the neurons which preside over functions required in the discharge of professional duties or business transactions. If these functions are overtaxed, brain fatigue Js the result. This brain fatigue involves that part of the brain which has been overtaxed, while the remaining neurons are suffering from the consequences of idleness. Indigestion, insomnia and a morose temper are the earliest and surest indications of brain exhaustion, and when they do appear must be heeded by the sufferer, who then should seek the necessary relief by appropriate rest and change of surroundings. Loss of sleep is responsible for much of the unhappiness in this world and innumerable acts of desperation. Sleep is the brain's staunchest ally, and when it hides itself, the delicate machinery will soon rebel against the most indomitable will. Insomnia is the brain toiler's worst enemy.

14 INTRODUCTION

"O sleep, O gentle sleep, Nature's soft nurse! how have I frightened thee, That thou no more wilt weigh my eyelids down And steep my senses in forgetfulness?"

— Shakespeare.

If the sufferer from insomnia begins battle with his enemy by substituting artificially induced sleep for natural sleep, his downfall will be speedy and certain. The average physician, when consulted by the sleepless sufferers, gives the well-meant advice to cease work and seek rest. This advice, even when promptly accepted and carried into effect, is often void of the expected results, for

"Powerful indeed is the empire of habit."

— Publius Syr us.

What is rest for some is toil to others. Idleness is not rest. The needed rest is rest for the overburdened neurons and useful employment for the neurons which have been at a standstill. The fashionable summer resorts, crowded, noisy cities, long wearisome journeys and luxurious clubs are not congenial to the sufferer from brain fatigue.

"Indolence, that dangerous siren, must be eschewed, or thou must be content to yield up whatever thou hast acquired by the nobler exertions of thy life." — Horatius.

Labor is man's mission on earth, and when the monotony of one kind of strenuous exertion creates fatigue, a change of work and surroundings brings the much desired repose. The artisan and farmer, when affected by muscle fatigue, will find the busy city interesting, instructive and restful; the brain toiler should seek rest and relief in nature's work shops and art

INTRODUCTION 15

galleries, where there are no telephones, no telegraphs, no daily news, and where the screech of the steam whistle and the hum of manufactories have no access. The trees, the shrubs, the flowers and the birds are the best friends of the weary, fretful soul.

The most successful physician is he who finds and removes the cause of disease. In no other disease is this more important than in brain tire. The most frequent cause of brain fatigue is care, a fact recognized by the poet of all poets when he said:

"I am sure care's an enemy to life."

For the intelligent mind there is no loneliness in solitude. Nature's handiwork is everywhere. It is seen in the desert, on the prairies, in the forests, the rivers, the lakes and the countless forms of animal and vegetable life.

Man is never alone. During the day busy nature is the entertainer, and at night the ever-varying sky is the silent instructor.

The seeker for mental repose away from all care in the midst of solitude will become conscious of the fact that

"He is never less at leisure than when at leisure."

— Cicero.

And

"In solitude, where we are at least alone."

— Byron.

There is no country in the world that has as many imprudent brain workers as the United States. The unbridled ambition for fame, influence and wealth leads to a strenuous life which has shortened the lives and curtailed the usefulness of thousands of our best

professional and business men annually, and there are no indications pointing to an abatement of the intense struggle for supremacy in all walks of life. Fortunately, there is no country that can equal our own in the number and attractiveness of places of genuine recreation for those who are in search of mental repose. We can boast of an expanse of seashore, countless placid lakes, endless prairies, numerous fascinating rivers, great primitive forests, snow-clad mountains, Niagara Falls and the Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks. We have the best means of rapid transit by which the most remote parts of the country can be reached with ease and comfort in a few days. We have a variety in climate that takes away every possible excuse for tourists to cross the ocean on either side when in search for rest and recreation. Let me urge upon all those in need of mental rest to abstain from the worry and care of travel to foreign countries and select one from the hundreds of the most attractive places within the limits of our own country in which to spend their much-needed and wellearned vacation. Plain food, plenty of outdoor physical exercise and congenial mental occupation will accomplish more than medicines in resting the brain and in restoring its functions to normal. The dry, cool, bracing air of a high altitude is particularly well adapted in the treatment of functional nervous disorders. One of the most desirable places for this class of patients is unquestionably the Yellowstone Park. No valley within its limits has an elevation of less than 6,000 feet, while many of the mountain peaks within and adjacent to the Park rise from 10,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea.

SENTINEL ROCK.

HISTORT AND LOCATION

OF

TELLOWSTONE PARK

In 1872 the government took the necessary steps to establish a national park in the most romantic part of the Rocky Mountains — the northwestern corner of Wyoming, the Switzerland of the United States. Its boundaries overlap a few miles into Montana on the north and Idaho and Montana on the west. The original reservation is sixty-five miles east and west and seventy-five miles north and south. By an act of Congress, the 3,344 square miles which it embraces were set aside ''and dedicated as a public park, or pleasure ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the people." It is in every sense of the word a public pleasure ground. It has recently been enlarged by thousands of square miles by an act of Congress providing for a timber reserve. It is one of nature's masterpieces. Its alpine scenery is superb; its lakes and rivers of the purest water teem with choicest fish; its meadows and dark, primitive forests are decorated with countless varieties of flowers; it is the home of the noblest game, and its spouting, mysterious geysers lend an attraction found on no other continent. The most industrious student can spend a whole season in this wonderland, and then leave it with a keen sense of

2 17 having seen only a few of its most important attractions.

ENTRANCE TO THE PARK FROM THE WEST,

Yellowstone Park is accessible from two sides—' from Cinnabar on the north and Monida on the west. I visited the Park during my summer vacation in 1903, and selected the western entrance from Monida, making the trip in a direction opposite to the great stream of visitors. Monida is on the Oregon Short Line. It is the headquarters of the Monida and Yellowstone Stage Company. The Summit House is an excellent little hotel, where the traveler can spend a restful night. The stages, private carriages, horses and drivers leave nothing to be desired. The routine stage journey from here through the Park is made in seven days, for which a charge of twenty-eight dollars is made. As it was my intention to study the beauties of the Park thoroughly and travel leisurely, I made the trip in a private conveyance, accompanied by Dr. Salomon, of Coblenz, Germany, and his wife.

FROM MONIDA TO THE PARK.

We started Tuesday morning, July 7th, and arrived at Red Rocks, the first station, a distance of thirty miles, at four o'clock in the afternoon. Overcoats and blankets were necessary to protect ourselves against the chilly wind from the west. The distance from Monida to the boundary of the Park is seventy miles. The road is in excellent condition and for the most part level; the highest hill over which we passed had an elevation of less than 200 feet. The Monida route threads the foothills of the Rocky Mountains,

FROM MONIDA TO THE PARK 19

skirting the lovely Centennial Valley, the Red Rocks Lakes, and after passing through the flowery meadows of Alaska Basin, crosses the Divide to Henry Lake in Idaho, whence it recrosses the range into Montana via Turghe Pass, near the western entrance to the Park. Fertile pasture lands, snow-clad mountains on both sides, crystal mountain streams and smooth, silvery mountain lakes charm the eye along the entire route. The scenery on the entire trip to the Park is as beautiful and captivating as the Park itself. It is a mistake to make the journey in one day. The little hamlet Red Rocks has a charming location, as the scenery around it is superb. The hotel is a one-story log house with a frame addition. We were privileged to occupy a separate cozy log house villa. A general store, saloon and a few log cabins make up the balance of the hamlet. Graylings at least ten inches in length were served for lunch and supper, and were greatly enjoyed by all. This fish and speckled trout are found in abundance in the mountain streams and Red Rocks and Henry Lakes. Epicures differ as to the merits of these two kinds of fish; we, certainly had no fault to find with our grayling. From an eminence west of the hamlet a view is obtained which defies pen and brush to do it justice. The quiet, peaceful, diminutive hamlet below, with a high liberty pole in its center, the top graced by the stars and stripes floating in the evening breeze; in front of it a mountain stream hedged in by blossoming willows; behind it high mountain peaks covered here and there by blankets of snow; to the left the Red Rocks Lakes in the distance, and the Sheep Mountain, famous for a small herd of bighorns that so far have escaped the onslaught of the most intrepid hunters and are frequently seen by the aid of glasses; to the right Bear Mountain, the home of the grizzly, silvertip, cinnamon and black bear; the whole panorama resplendent in the soft rays of the retiring sun.

TWO FAMILIES OF PRAIRIE CHICKENS.

On our way from Monida to Red Rocks we had an opportunity to make a practical study of maternal love and devotion. Within twenty feet of our carriage we surprised two prairie chickens with their offspring. Both mothers manifested intense anxiety for their ten to twelve little ones, who but a few days before had first seen the sage brush in which they had left the narrow limits of their shell. The little chicks, unconscious of danger, playfully scampered around their frightened mothers. The mothers refused to make use of their wings and seek safety in flight. They urged the little ones by all kinds of movements and suggestions to make the best use of their tiny legs in the direction away from their enemies. The retreat was slow, but orderly. We looked in vain for the fathers of the little babes; they scented danger in time and were out of sight when we rudely disturbed the morning reunion. This observation showed us as plainly as could be demonstrated by action the pre-eminence of maternal over paternal love and devotion. Another little animal that entertained us at short intervals during the entire day was the small variety of ground squirrel. Like the larger variety so common in California, it lives under ground. The head is that of a squirrel; the tail is long, but not bushy. It is said they are a cross between the real ground squirrel and

TWO FAMILIES OF PRAIRIE CHICKENS 21

the mountain rat. They are sociable creatures and live in colonies. When alarmed, they hasten to the open door of their subterranean home, squat on their haunches, tail on the ground, body erect, arms against the chest and forearms slightly flexed, remaining in this attitude statuette-like, perhaps elongating or shortening the body for half an inch or an inch in jerks as they take in the surroundings; then again remaining motionless until, when they believe the dangerous moment has come, they plunge head forward into the hole with the speed of lightning.

The following day we left for Dwelle, forty miles distant, where we arrived in time for supper. This part of the journey is replete with pleasant surprises. The lofty snow-clad mountains are constantly in view, for the most part timbered to near the barren peaks; the mountain streams and rivulets are crossed at short intervals, and the excellent road skirts the Red Rocks and Henry Lakes; the rich meadows in the valleys, passes and gorges are veritable botanical gardens. The abundance and beauty of the subalpine flora reminded us of:

"And because the breath of flowers is far sweeter in the air (where it comes and goes like the working of music) than in the hand, therefore nothing is more fit for that delight than to know what be the flowers and plants that do best perfume the air." — Bacon.

The day was perfect. In the morning we saw thin pellicles of ice on little pools near the hotel, but with the rising sun the chill in the air disappeared and all kinds of insects, including mosquitoes, left their hiding-places and enjoyed the warm sunshine, bent upon enjoyment and search for food. The cloudless sky and the enchanting sceneries made this part of our journey restful and delightful. On the larger of the two Red Rocks Lakes we counted nine swans and a number of small flocks of ducks.

AN INQUISITIVE INHABITANT OF THE PRAIRIE.

A short distance from Lake View Hotel I discovered a moving mass in the high sage brush on the right side of the road which disappeared very suddenly. It was not a bird, and from the size and color of the disappearing body, I concluded it must have been a badger. Upon this supposition the carriage was brought to a standstill and a thirty-thirty rifle made in readiness. I looked intently in the direction where the mass disappeared, and after a short pause I recognized a sharp nose with black vertical stripes make its appearance in a large hole with a diminutive embankment behind. Very soon a pair of eyes and two short ears came in sight. The animal was evidently watching us as carefully as we were him. He did not think it prudent to advance any farther. I fired, and judging from the fur that flew, I was confident that the bullet had been sent in the right direction. We stepped up to the hole and found the dead badger barely within sight and reach. The bullet had done its deadly work by carrying away the right half of the lower jaw and by traversing the base of the neck. My companion took charge of the skin and will have an American badger in his collection on his return to Europe.

TWO CRANES TAKEN BY SURPRISE 23

TWO SANDHILL CRANES TAKEN BY SURPRISE.

Between the Red Rocks Lakes and Henry Lake we discovered two immense birds in a ravine below a bank of snow and near the edge of the pine forest. They stalked about majestically and in a very bungling manner jumped across a ditch, slowly wending their way in the direction of the near cover. The hunting spirit of my friend was suddenly awakened, and although the birds were at least 150 yards away, he grasped his rifle, took deliberate aim and fired. With the report of the gun the birds rose, and with a penetrating gr-gr-gr began their flight across the valley. Another bullet was sent after them, which had the effect of still more increasing the speed of their enormous wings. Sandhill cranes are not seen often in this section of the country, and it was a pleasant experience for my companion to see and shoot at these strangers of the alpine mesa.

Lake Henry is a beautiful sheet of water and the source of the Snake River. It is a favorite place for fishermen in pursuit of speckled trout and grayling. Snake River, near its origin where it is crossed by the road, is at least fifteen yards wide and on an average three feet in depth. The excellent pasturage all along has attracted many cattlemen who live in small log houses always on the bank of a mountain stream. After crossing Snake River, the road enters Turghe Pass. At the entrance of the Pass the road leads through an immense dense grove of poplars, the light green trembling foliage of which furnished a strong contrast with the dark green background of pines. From here to Dwelle the valley is narrow and vegetation more scanty. Dwelle has a large log hotel with a new annex of similar construction, and in case of necessity tent accommodations. The rooms are comfortable and the kitchen satisfactory and freely supplied with grayling and trout from Henry Lake and the south branch of Madison River. In the general store the traveler will find everything he will need for a trip through the Park. In the hotel is a collection of prepared skins and mounted specimens of nearly all game animals of the Rocky Mountains. A feature of this collection is a number of superb elk heads. Dwelle is six miles from the western boundary of the Park. We changed horses, carriage and driver at this station, and next day left for the Park. The road passes through a dense forest of pine until the bridge that spans Madison River is reached. In crossing the bridge we encountered a number of ground-hogs who appeared to be on the most intimate and best terms with the tourists, so much so that we succeeded in photographing some of them at a range of less than ten feet. When pressed too close they would unwillingly crawl into their hiding-place among the loose stones underneath the bridge. We made the journey from Dwelle to the Fountain Hotel, a distance of twenty-eight miles, in less than five hours. The road follows the Madison River from the bridge to where it is formed by the junction of the Firehole and Gibbon Rivers, when it passes through Christmas Park, so called from the arrangement and beauty of pine trees on both sides of it. The Fountain Hotel is a large frame structure painted yellow, in full view of the geysers of the upper geyser basin. Although built seven years ago, it is a

BEAR HOTEL GUESTS 25

modern structure with all conveniences found in the hotels of large cities. A company of cavalry is stationed a few miles north of the hotel, and we found the soldiers busily engaged in the construction of a new telegraph line, while some of the officers were wading the river and exercising their muscles in casting for trout.

BEAR HOTEL GUESTS.

In the evening we joined the remaining guests of the hotel on their way to a place about 200 yards behind the hotel, the feeding ground for bears. The food is deposited on a little knoll guarded in front by a single v/ire fastened to trees. On a board nailed to one of the trees was printed in large type the warning: "Keep Out — Danger." We were not kept long in suspense. A one-year-old black bear came out of the woods noiselessly and cautiously, found the expected morsel in the shape of a large soup bone, seized it with his mouth and slowly walked from the open place into a clump of trees where, in full view of the audience, he satisfied his sense of hunger. Very soon he was joined by a larger companion, and for reasons we could not comprehend at the time, both of them climbed the same tree, the smaller one in the lead. These bears were shot at repeatedly, not with guns, but with a number of kodaks. The reason for the climbing of these bears became evident when an immense cinnamon bear took possession of the food supply. This bear is well known to the residents of the hotel, who informed us that when he comes all of the little bears are expected to retire. The cinnamon bear took his time in consuming his evening meal, and no amount of whistling or loud talking could disturb the equilibrium of his well-balanced instinct. When darkness set in, the little bears in the tree were still watching the giant of the bear camp disposing of the rations so liberally furnished by the hotel. This cinnamon bear is the one that figures so conspicuously in the collection of photographic illustrations of the bear tribe of the Park. He is seldom absent at supper time, and his arrival is a strong hint for the smaller bears to clear the field. When he has finished his meal the subordinates are welcome to what is left. The big bear is not vicious, but extremely selfish and intolerant. It is to his advantage that the grizzly is no competitor for the free food supply. With all his shortcomings as far as the nobler virtues are concerned, he is always a welcome visitor, and during the. open season he is sure of an appreciative audience. He appears to know that the visitors are not only anxious to see him, but equally anxious to carry his shadow home with them in the camera, as he condescends to pose in all possible bear positions, to the great delight of the amateur kodakists.

THE GEYSERS.

The greatest wonder of the Yellowstone Park is the Geyser Valley. The other attractions of the Park can be found elsewhere on an equal and some of them on a superior scale, but to see a geyser in this country we must visit the Yellowstone Park. A geyser is a spouting hot spring. Hot springs are numerous and are found in most countries, but geysers only exist in Iceland, New Zealand and the Yellowstone Park. The geyser with which every child who has studied geog-

THE GEYSERS 27

raphy is most familiar is the one near Hankadale, Iceland. The hot wells and geyser here were due to the volcanic eruption of 1294, when the old hot springs disappeared and those now in existence came. Iceland's great geyser spouts very irregularly, sometimes a very large volume of water to a height of 100 feet. The only other geysers are on the North Island, New Zealand. Napa Valley has boiling springs improperly called geysers. Geyser action remains a puzzle to the scientific men. Many theories have been advanced. The theory entertained by Bunsen is the one most generally accepted. According to Bunsen, the ejection of the water is caused by explosive action due to the heating of the water under pressure in the lower part of the geyser-tube to considerably above the boiling point. The elastic force of the heated water overcomes the weight of the superincumbent water, and the relief from pressure is so great during the ascent of the column of water that steam is generated rapidly and to such an amount as to eject with great force from the tube a great quantity of the water. The water thrown up by the geysers contains silica, which when deposited around the margins of the craters constitutes what is known as geyserite. It occurs as white or grayish, porous, in stalactitic, filamentous, honeycomb or cauliflower-like forms. The geyserite stones are stratiform, very hard, the layers varying greatly in thickness. The stones exempt from further geyserite formation crumble on the surface when the disintegrating stone is transformed into small chips and sand-like debris. All of the orifices of geysers have everted or undermined margins of this flintlike geyserite, which by increase of the deposits grow into cones variable in shape, sometimes resembling a cup, a bowl, or even a castle, varying in height from a few inches to twenty feet (Castle geyser).

THE YELLOWSTONE GEYSERS.

The Yellowstone ge3^sers are noted for their number and variety. The place to study geyser action is in the Firehole Basin. To the tourists who, like ourselves, have seen these first, the fearful geysers of the Norris Basin have lost much of their terror. The Firehole Basin is divided into lower, middle and upper, all of which have geysers of established reputation. These basins occupy a valley of varying width extending from north to south, bisected by the Firehole River and walled in by mountains covered with a dense pine forest from base to summit. The valley is eight miles in length, and with the exception of short intervals, clouds of steam are never out of sight, and the gurgling, hissing and blowing of the geysers, large and small, almost constantly engage the ear. The basins present a desert-like appearance, the so-called formations made up of- the silica precipitations, the geyserite in solid stone or the crumbled debris of the surface of the underlying stones. All of the basins appear like underground cities with smoking chimneys reaching to or projecting from the surface. In fact, the whole valley is one immense subterranean caldron with vents in the form of fissures and craters varying from a mere chink to great clefts and from a circular opening the size of a thimble to craters thirty feet in diameter. These geysers undoubtedly have a common volcanic heat supply and communicate with each other by a complicated network of subterranean pas-