The Albert Nyanza, great basin of the Nile, and explorations of the Nile sources

Front matter

: ; ; ay : ; on SHER UES, ih ce rE

Raa eoeer es

? Seyi iter Pt

Chapter I. The Expedition

Programme— Start from Cairo—Arrive at Berber—Plan of Exploration—The River Atbara— Abyssinian A ffluents—Character of Rivers—Causes of Nile Inundations—Violence of the Rains —Arrival at Khartoum—Description of Khartoum—Leyptian Authorities —Taxes—The Soudan—Slave-Trade of the Soudan —Slave-Trade of the White Nile—System of Operations— Inhuman Proceedings—Negro Allies—Revelations of Slave- Trade—Distant Slave Markets -—Prospects of the Expedition— Difficulties at the Outset—Opposition of the Egyptian Authorities—Preparations for Sailing—Johann Schmidt—Demand — for Poll-Tax—cCollision before starting—Amiable Boy ! —The Departure—The Boy Osman—Banks of White Nile—Change in Disposition of Men—Character of the River—Misery of Scene—River Vegetation— Ambatch Wood—Johann’s Sickness —Uses of Fish-skin—Johann dying—Johann’s Death—New Year—Shillook Villages—The Sobat River—Its Character— Bahr Giraffe—Bahr el Gazal—Observations— Corporal Richarn —Character of Bahr el Gazal—Peculiarity of River Sobat— Tediousness of Voyage—Bull Buffalo—Sali Achmet killed— His Burial—Ferocity of the Buffalo—“ The Clumsy” on the Styx — Current of White Nile — First View of Natives — Joctian and his Wife—Charming Husband—Natron—Catch a Hippopotamus—‘“ Perhaps it was his Uncle”—Real Turtle in Mock Hippopotamus—Richarn reduced to the Ranks—Arrival at the Zareeba—Fish spearing—The Kytch Tribe—White Ant Towers—Starvation in the Kytch Country—Destitution of the Natives—The Bull of the Herd—Men and Beasts in a bad Temper—Aboukooka—Austrian Mission Station—Sale of the Mission-House — Melancholy Fate of Baron Harnier — The Ahab Tribes—Tumuli of Ashes—The Shir Tribe—The Lotus Harvest—Arrival at Gondokoro— Discharge Cargo. Page 1—)b9

Xi CONTENTS.

Chapter II. Bad Reception At Gondokoro

Reports of Speke and Grant—The Bari Tribe—Description of the Natives—Effects of poisoned Arrows—Hostility of the Bari Tribe—Atrocities of the trading Parties—Lawlessness at Gondokoro—A Boy shot—The first Mutiny—LDecision of my Wife—The Khartoum Escort—Arrival of Speke and Grant— Gladness, at. meeting them-—Their appearance—Speke and Grant’s Discoveries—Another Lake reported to exist—Speke’s. Instructions—Arrange to explore the Luta N’Zige—Scarcity at Gondokoro—Speke and Grant depart to Khartoum. Page 60—75

Chapter III. Gum Acold An ©

Gun <Accident—Birds ruin the Donkeys—Arrangement with Mahommed—His Duplicity—Plot to obstruct my Advance —The Boy Saat—History of Saat—First Introduction to Saat—Turned out by Mistake—Saat’s Character—Something brewing—Mutiny of Escort—Preparation for the worst— Disarm the Mutineers—Mahommed’s desertion—Arrangement with Koorshid Aga—The last Hope gone—Expedition ruined — Resolution to advance—Richarn faithful— Bari Chief’s Report—Parley with Mutineers—Conspiracy again—Night Visit of Fadeela—‘“ Quid pro Quo ”—*“ Adda,” the Latooka— Arrange to start for Latooka—Threats of Kooshid’s People— Determination to proceed—Start from Gondokoro—My own LE MiUCs eam MeN tie UN Gat kh edge age Mee hele, JULIO: TOO

Chapter IV. First Night's March

Bivouacking—Arrival at Belignan---Attempts at Conciliation— I shame my Men—The March—Advantages of Donkeys —Advice for Travellers—Want of Water—A forced March— Its Difficulties—Delays on the WRoad—Cleverness of the Donkeys—Party dead-beat—-Improvidence of Monkey—We obtain Water—Native Tit-Bits—Surrounded by Natives— Cross-Examination—Recognition of the Chief—Interest of

_ Natives—The Monkey Wallady—We leave Tollogo—The

CONTENTS. Xi

Elyria Pass—A Race for Ellyria—Elyrian Villages pallisaded —Outmarched by the Turks—Ibrahim and his Men—Attempt at Reconciliation—Diplomacy—Peace established—Arrive at Ellyria—Legge, the Chief of Ellyria—Presents to Ibrahim— ‘Legge’s pe peramce Violent Storm— No Ups oie Om Ch S\ullg 29 6 6S 6 oo mo 9 Jee =I

Chapter V. Leave Helly Ria

We leave Ellyria—Brutality towards the Women—Order of March—Bellaal—Drainage towards the Sobat—Game at Wakkala—Delightful Scenery—Latooka Thieves—Stalking Antelopes—Chase after Waterbuck—Good Service of Rifle— The Turks’ Salute—Treacherous Welcome—Mahommed Her— Quarrelling among the Traders—The Latooka Mutiny—Settle the Ringleader—Stop the Mutiny—I pursue a Fugitive, and interpose on his behalf—Held in some Estimation—Desertion of Men—The Natives of Latooka—Their probable Origin— Tribes hard to distinguish—Tarraneollé—Native Architecture—

Coiffure of Natives—Hair Helmets

of Latooka—Fighting Brecless— He Latooka Women—The

Chief’s Introduction—“ Moy” and his Ladies—Bokkeé proposes

to improve Mrs. Baker—Bokké and Daughter—Extraction of

the front Teeth—The Value of Wives—Cows of more value than Women— Destruction of Mahommed Her’s People—Death of my Deserters—My Prophecy realized—Apprehensive of an

Attack—The Turks insult the Women—Ill Conduct of the

Turks—Well done, Bokké !—Results of the Turks’ Misconduct

—Interview with Commoro—Awkward Position—The Latooka

War Signal—Preparations for Defence—We await the Attack—

Parley—Too “wide awake”—Camp at Tarrangolle—Scarcity

Obtuseness of Natives. Page 123—165

Chapter VI. The Funeral Dance

_ Bari Interpreters—Commoro, the Lion—Conversation with Commoro—Good and bad all die—Failure of the religious Argument—The Camel poisoned—Habits of the Camel—The idi irty Donkeys. Page 166—174

XIV...

Chapter VII. Latooka

Herds of the Latookas and Game—Storm—Native Blacksmiths—

Elephants—Elephant Hunt—Teétel, my old Hunter—Cowardly Followers — Nearly caught — Tétel distressed — African and Indian Elephants—Height of Elephants—African and Ceylon Elephants—Rifles and Bullets for heavy Game—Character of Country and its Sports—The “ Baby ”—Elephant Pitfalls— Native hunting—The Bagara Hunters . . Page 175—193

Chapter VIII. Ibrahim ’s Return

The African Black—The Neero—Negro Slave Hunters—Ibrahimawa; or, Sinbad the Sailor—Makkarika Cannibals—My daily Employments — Quarrels with the Latookas — The Latookas seize a Gun—Hope to the South—Journey to Obbo —Enter the Mountains—Arrive at Obbo—Natives of Obbo— Butter Nuts and Fruits — Pottery and Utensils — Katchiba, Chief of Obbo—Women of Obbo—Languages of Tribes— Katchiba’s Diplomacy—Katchiba “always at Home”—The great Magician—Reconnaissance to the South—An Upset— Shoot a Tétel—Ceremony of Welcome at Farajoke—-Elevated Country at Farajoke—Return to Obbo—Katchiba determines to ride—First Attempts at Horsemanship—Recover the lost Horse—Return to Latooka—Beware of Botanists—DBaboons— The Maharif Antelope—Hunting Giraffes—Benighted—Regain the Party — Bread-baking on the March — Sickness — Small- Pox—First Clue to the Lake — Brown Men are called WO ge) a lesa ssa vesvhrehens cael eplne! ONO AIS) bo AGL

Chapter IX. The Turks Attack Kayala

The ‘‘Pleasant Robber” killed—The Life of Women spared in

War—Scarcity of Salt among the Latookas—The Turks murder a Native—Country disturbed—TIwo Thieves—Ibrahimawa’s Reminiscences of England—Party recalled to Obbo—White Ants—Cattle stealers at Night—A Thief shot—March to Obbo—Great Puff Adder—Violent Storm—Hostility caused by the Turks—The M.D, attends us—Marauding Expedition

CONTENTS. XV.

——Saat becomes scientific—Will England suppress the Slave- Trade—The Egyptian Scarabeeus—Bacheeta, the Unyoro Slave —IJntelligence of the Lake—Commerce with the Interior— Obbo the clothing Frontier—Death of the transport Animals ——A Morning Call in Obbo—Katchiba’s Politeness—“ Coming Events,’ &c.—Fever—Symptoms . . . . Page 238—267

Chapter X Life At Obbo

Influence gained over the People—Katchiba is applied to for Rain — Rain-making — Katchiba takes C ouuaselis _Ojpimtom—= Night-watch for Elephants—Elephants Start for the South—The Asua iaivae —Ghellistae Mehedehet Antelope—Turk’s Standard-bearer killed— Arrival at Shooa— The Neighbourhood of Shooa—Cultivation and Granaries— ““ Wheels within Wheels ”—Difficulty in starting South— Fatiko Levee—Boundless Prairies—Deceit of the Guide—- Arrive at the Victoria Nile—Arrive at Rionga’s Country—The Karuma Falls—Difficulties at the River—Passage of the River forbidden—The Natives’ Dread of Kamrasi—Resolve to cross the River alone—The Ferry of Atada—The Natives are suspicious—Freemasonry of Unyoro—Native Curiosity—The Bark Cloth of Unyoro—Native Pottery—The Bottle Gourds used as Models—Pronounced to be Speke’s Brother—The Escort cross the River—Native Manufactures—March parallel with the Victoria Nile—March to the Capital—Kamrasi suspects Treachery—Imprisoned on the March—Kamrasi makes a State Visit—The King—Interview with Kamrasi— xchange Blood and become Friends—Avarice of the King— Ibrahim and Party return north—The Interpreter will not _Speak—Kamrasi’s Chronometer is dead . . Page 268—316

Chapter XI. The Start For The Lake

The King takes Leave—Kamrasi’s Proposal—The King’s Apology == Tanners s Satanic Escort — The Rout at a Cane shot — A

Disagreeable Escort—Passage of the Pee sees —The Pickaxe . . . . . Page 317—327 xvi

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIi. RECOVERED

The Sugar-cane indigenous—Close to the Lake—Discovery of the

Albert N 'vanza—The Albert N’yanza—The Lake declared to be the Sea—Vacovia—NSalt-pits—Geography of the Lake— Countries bordering the Lake—Sources of the Nile—Albert Lake, the great Reservoir — Unhealthy Clmate — Arrange Canoes for Lake Voyage— Voyage upon the Lake—Deserted by the Boatmen—No Pilot—HEndeavour to civilize the Canoes —WNatives Volunteer as Boatmen— Storm on the Lake—Nearly Swamped—Falls of the Katigiri River—Shoot a Crocodile— Elephants in the Lake—Inhospitable Natives—Procure Supplies —The Lake changes its Character—Arrival at Magungo—Fish and fishing—Native fishing Arrangements—Exit of the Nile from the Lake—The Victoria Nile at Magungo—Hxamination of the Nile—Leave Magungo—Voyage up the Victoria Nile— Canoe Voyage terminates—The Murchison Falls—Hippopotamus charges the Canoe — Crocodiles — ‘The Island of Patooan—Sickness on the March—-Difference in the Level between Karuma and the Lake—Altitudes . Page 328—371

Chapter XIII. Treacherous Designs Of The Natives

Confined in the Country—Deserted by the Natives—Misery at

Shooa Moru—Hard Fare—Kaumrasi’s Tactics—The Bait takes— We are carried to the Kine’s Camp—Rejoin the Turks’ Detachment—IXamrasi seeks my Alliance—M’Gambi has impersonated the King—The real Kamrasi—The begging Envoy—Introduction to the real ae — The Native Court — Return to (CRNTNDY Wer spue Gata oo ae ile . . . Lage 312—387

Chapter XIV. A Home In Kisoona

Native Preparations of Food—Beads and Native Markets—Vapour

Bath for Fever—State Visit from the King—The King in love with a Tooth-comb-—Attempts at Ancient History—Kamrasi’s © Request—Kamrasi tries Tartar-emetic—Sudden Invasion of - the Country — The British Flag protects Unyoro — Diplomatic Arrangement—The Retreat of the Invaders . Page 388—401

CONTENTS. } XV

Chapter XV. Kamrasi Begs For The British Flag

Summary Justice for High Treason—Arrival of Ivory for the Turks—The female Captives—Treacherous Murder of Sali Disputes with Kamrasi—The Turks begin to bully—Eddrees refused admittance at Court—Conflagrations in the Camp— Native Witches—Invasion of the M’Was—Kamrasi will not Fight—An invigorating little Difficulty—Kamrasi’s Retreat-— We are deserted—Prepare for Retreat—Arrive at Deang—No Water—Richarn missing—Richarn reported The M’Was Drum beats—The Night Retreat—Lose the Road— Capture a Native—Recover the Route—Arrive at Foweera— Well prepared—Richarn arrives—Richarn’s Story—The King in Distress—Arrival of Ibrahim with Reinforcements—Kamrasi “is himself again”—The Whisky Distillery—Kamyrasi tries the Whisky—Kamrasi orders the Murder of Kalloe— Attempt to sav Capture of Kalloe—Death of a Headsman—The Warning—The Body-guard. Page 402—440

Chapter XVI. Kamrasi’s Adieu

We quit Kamrasi’s Territory—March to Shooa—<Arrive at Shooa— The Lira Tribe—Razzias—The Fight with Werdella—Werdella defeats the Turks—Murder of a Native—Runaway Slaves recaptured — Little Abbai— The Children of the Camp— Shoot a Crocodile—The Black Rhinoceros—The Lira Headdressie we : . . . Page 441—455

Chapter XVII. The Natives In Mourning

Vreparations for starting Homeward—Arrive at the Nile—Signor Miani’s Retreat—View of the Nile—Gebel Kookoo—The Asua River—Suspicious Movements of the Natives—Attacked in the Pass—Night in a Hostile Country—Poisoned Arrows shot into Camp— Approach Gondokoro—Arrive at Gondokoro—Neither Letters nor Supplies . . . . . . Page 456—469

XVM CONTENTS.

Chapter XVIII. The Latest News From Khartoum

Retreat of the Slaves—Sail from Gondokoro—The Nile cleared of its Mystery—

The Victoria Source—Ptolemy’s Theory—A ffluents of the White Nile—Action of the Abyssinian Rivers—Slavery —Impotence of European Consuls—Central Africa opened to. Navigation—Tribes of Central Africa—Vestiges of a Pre- Adamite Creation—Sir Roderick Murchison’s Theories confirmed—Sir Roderick Murchison’s Address . Page 470—487

Chapter XIX. The Black Antelope

Antelope-shooting—Arrive at the Nile Dam—Character of the Obstruction-—Passage through the Dam—The Plague breaks. out — Saat smitten by the Plague—Saat dies — Arrival at Khartoum—Destruction of the Plague—A Darkness that might. be felt—Horrible Slave Cargo—Mahommed Her punished— Nearly wrecked—Stranded among Cataracts—Start from Berber to Souakim—A Row in the Desert—Bravo Zéneb !—Cross the Mountains—First View of the Sea—Arrival at Suez—Farewell towAtrica. Weise ou aie, carey es ee RO CRC Oa OU,

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait) of Mr and? Misi Baker). 5 2 3. Ronin piece: Une ILA 6 6G ¢ ee ee Lon ace 1 Arms and Instruments of various ‘Theos 1 Nuéhr Natives coming to the Boats 4] Joctian, Chief of the Nuéhr Tribe 43 Chief of Kytch and Daughter 48 Starving Boy of Kytch Tribe begging . AQ The Boys who have begged 5]

A Homestead of the Bari Tstho—0he aan Aina of sine Menem Me une es cea A ese yh dea ee oe LOCO OL Legeé the Chief . Madigan et LES Latooka Blacksmiths 139 Commoro running to the Fight . 144 Bokké—Wife of Moy, Chief of Latooka 147 _ Drake’s Head . a ie 161 Crimson-headed Spur-winged Genes Fe he, PAPAS ele ae, LOS ng ILewoole, Munem IDES 5 5 8 6 6 6 6 6 Sires INS diveplasth@harceme ma en et ww. 3 LO face, 183 Head-dress of Obbo (1) and Shoggo (2) 209 Women of Obbo . Seca 213 Katchiba’s eldest Son 216 Katchiba and his Hebe on a Journey Wee. eee 220 Overhaulinesthe Giratiesy = a 8). 2) Lloface) 2311 Wine Oiolo® War Danes 5 0 6 6 5 6 6 9 6 4 MO TaIgZ AAS Mehedehet Antelope 277 Natives of Lira (1) and Madi( 2)i in ihe Carp of Tose To ae 282

My Examination by the Chiefs on entering Unyoro— Resolved, that Iam Speke’s Brother. . . . TZoface 302

The Start from the M’rooli for the Lake with Kamari’s Satanic SCORN Me sued ue mera an sLorface: d2l

OR LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Baggera . :

Lepidosiren Annecteus .

The Murchison Falls, about 120 ft. hfeih, from he Widtauils Nile or Somerset River to the Level of the Albert Wake werent Od. ch Meese Does ay ani eee ke Nem am AO CLC

The Welcome on our Return to the Camp at Shooa. T7'o face

Head of Black Rhinoceros

The Chief of the Lira Tribe

Map of Route

General Map of Country, Nile Bi asin

Introduction

THE primary object of geographical exploration is the opening to general intercourse such portions of the earth as may become serviceable to the human race. ‘The explorer is the precursor of the colonist ; and the colonist is the human instrument by which the great work must be constructed—that greatest and most difficult of all undertakings—the civilization of the world.

The progress of civilization depends upon geographical position. The surface of the earth presents certain facilities and obstacles to general access ; those pots that are easily attainable must always enjoy a superior civilization to those that are remote from association with the world.

We may thus assume that the advance of civilization is dependent upon facility of transport. Countries naturally excluded from communication may, through the ingenuity of man, be rendered accessible ; the natural productions of those lands may be transported to the seacoast in exchange for foreign commodities ; and commerce, thus instituted, becomes the pioneer of civilization.

Hngland, the great chief of the commercial world, possesses a power that enforces a grave responsibility. She has the force to civilize. She is the natural colo-

C

XX1 INTRODUCTION.

nizer of the world. In the short space of three centuries, America, sprung from her loins, has become a giant offspring, a new era in the history of the human race, a new birth whose future must be overwhelming. Of later date, and still more rapid in development, Australia rises, a trrumphant proof of England’s power to rescue wild lands from barrenness ; to wrest from — utter savagedom those mighty tracts of the earth’s surface wasted from the creation of the world,—a darkness to be enlightened by Enelish colonization. Before the advancing steps of civilization the savage inhabitants of dreary wastes retreated ; regions hitherto lain hidden, and counting as nothing in the world’s oreat total, have risen to take the lead in the world’s ereat future.

Thus Eneland’s seed cast upon the earth’s surface germinates upon soils destined to reproduce her race. The energy and industry of the mother country become the natural instimcts of her descendants in localities adapted for their development ; and wherever Nature has endowed a land with agricultural capabilities, and favourable geographical position, slowly but surely that land will become a centre of civilization.

True Christianity cannot exist apart from civilization; thus, the spread of Christianity must depend upon the extension of civilization; and that extension depends upon commerce.

The philanthropist and the missionary will expend their noble energies in vain in struggling against the obtuseness of savage hordes, until the first steps towards their gradual enlightenment shall have been made by commerce. The savage must learn to want; he must learn to be ambitious; and to covet more than the mere animal necessities of food and drink. This can alone be taught by a communication with civilized. beings: the sight of men well clothed will induce the naked savage to covet clothing, and will create a want ; the supply of this demand will be the first step towards commerce. To obtain the supply, the

INTRODUCTION. Xx1il savage must produce some article in return as a medium of barter, some natural production of his country adapted to the trader's wants. His wants will increase as his ideas expand by communication with Kuropeans: thus, his productions must increase in due proportion, and he must become industrious ; mdustry being the first grand stride towards civilization.

The natural energy of all countries is influenced by climate ; and civilization bemg dependent upon industry, or energy, must accordingly vary in its degrees according to geographical position. The natives of tropical countries do not progress: enervated by intense heat, they incline rather to repose and amusement than to labour. Free from the rigour of winters, and the excitement of changes in the seasons, the native character assumes the monotony of their countrys temperature. They have no natural difficulties to contend with ; no struggle with adverse storms and icy winds and frost-bound soil; but an everlasting summer, and fertile ground producing with little tillage, excite no enterprise ; and the human mind, unexercised by difficulties, sinks into languor and decay. There are a lack of industry, a want of intensity of character, a love of ease and luxury, which leads to a devotion to sensuality,—to a plurality of wives, which lowers the character and position of woman. Woman, reduced to that false position, ceases to exercise her proper influence upon man ; she becomes the mere slave of passion, and, instead of holding her sphere as the emblem of civilization, she becomes its barrier. The absence of real love, engendered by a plurality of wives, is an absolute bar to progress; and so long as polygamy exists, an extension of civilization is impossible. In all tropical countries polygamy is the prevailing evil : this is the greatest obstacle to Christianity. The Mahommedan religion, planned carefully for Eastern habits, allowed a plurality of wives, and prospered. The savage can be taught the existence of a Deity, and become a Mussulman; but to him the hateful law of

XXIV INTRODUCTION.

fidelity to one wife is a bar to Christianity. Thus, in tropical climates there will always be a slower advance of civilization than in more temperate zones.

The highest civilization was originally confined to the small portion of the globe comprised between Persia, Heypt, Greece, and Italy. In those countries was concentrated the world’s earliest history; and although changed in special importance, they preserve their geographical significance to the present day.

The power and intelligence of man will have their highest development within certain latitudes, and the natural passions and characters of races will be governed by locality and the temperature of climate.

There are certain attractions in localities that induce first settlements of man; even as peculiar conditions of country attract both birds and animals. The first want of man and beast is food; thus fertile soil and abundant pasture combined with good climate and water communication always ensure the settlement of man; while natural seed-bearing grasses, forests, and prairies attract both birds and beasts. The earth offers special advantages in various positions to both man and beast ; and such localities are, with few exceptions, naturally inhabited. From the earliest creation there have been spots so peculiarly favoured by nature, by geographical position, climate, and fertility, that man has striven for their occupation, and they have become scenes of contention for possession. Such countries have had a powerful influence in, the world’s history, and such will be the great pulses of civilization,—the sources from which in a future, however distant, will flow the civilization of the world. Heypt is the land whose peculiar capabilities have thus attracted the desires of conquest, and with whom the world’s earliest history is intimately connected.

Heypt has been an extraordinary instance of the actual formation of a country by alluvial deposit ; it has been created by a single river. The great Sahara, that frightful desert of interminable scorching sand,

INTRODUCTION. XXV stretching from the Red Sea to the Atlantic, is cleft by one solitary thread of water. Ages before man could have existed in that inhospitable land, that thread of water was at its silent work: through countless years it flooded and fell, depositing a rich legacy of soil upon the barren sand until the delta was created ; and man, at so remote a period that we have no clue to an approximate date, occupied the fertile soil thus born of the river Nile, and that corner of savage Africa, rescued from its barrenness, became Heypt, and took the first rank in the earth’s history.

For that extraordinary land the world has ever contended, and will yet contend.

From the Persian conquest to the present day, although the scene of continual strife, Egypt has been an example of almost uninterrupted productiveness. Its geooraphical position afforded peculiar advantages for commercial enterprise. Bounded on the east by the Red Sea, on the north by the Mediterranean, while the fertilising Nile afforded inland communication, Kgypt became the most prosperous and civilized country of the earth. Egypt was not only created by the Nile, but the very existence of its inhabitants depended upon the annual inundation of that river: thus all that related to the Nile was of vital importance to the people ; it was the hand that fed them.

Heypt depending so entirely upon the river, it was natural that the origin of those mysterious waters should have absorbed the attention of thinking men. It was unlike all other rivers. In July and August, when Kuropean streams were at their lowest in the summer heat, the Nile was at the flood! In Kgypt there was no rainfall—not even a drop of dew in those parched deserts through which, for 860 miles of latitude, the glorious river flowed without a tributary. Licked up by the burning sun, and gulped by the exhausting sand of Nubian deserts, supporting all losses by evaporation and absorption, the noble flood shed its annual blessings upon Egypt. An anomaly

XXVI INTRODUCTION.

among rivers; flooding in the driest season; everlasting. in sandy deserts ; where was its hidden origin ? where were the sources of the Nile ?

This was from the earliest period the great geographical question to be solved.

In the advanced stage of civilization of the present era, we look with regret at the possession by the Moslem of the fairest portions of the world,—of countries so favoured by climate and by geographical position, that, in the early days of the earth’s history, they were the spots most coveted ; and that such favoured places should, through the Moslem rule, be barred from the advancement that has attended lands less adapted by nature for development. There are no countries of the earth so valuable, or that would occupy so important a position in the family of nations, as Turkey in Kurope, Asia Minor, and Hoypt, under a civilized and Christian government.

As the great highway to India, Keypt is the most interesting country to the English. The extraordinary fertility being due entirely to the Nile, I trust that I may have added my mite to the treasury of scientific knowledge by completing the discovery of the sources of that wonderful river, and thereby to have opened a way to the heart of Africa, which, though dark in our limited perspective, may, at some future period, be the path to civilization.

I offer to the world my narrative of many years of hardships and difficulties, happily not vainly spent in this great enterprise : should some un-ambitious spirits reflect, that the results are hardly worth the sacrifice of the best years of life thus devoted to exile and suffering, let them remember that “we are placed on earth for a certain period, to fulfil according to our several conditions and degrees of mind, those duties by which the earth’s history is carried on.” *

* KK. L. Bulwer’s “ Life, Literature, and Manners.”

re aad ae

*

A Pe x Cher, rte gs

7 SS |= a EEE Se i

—————————

ARMS AND INSTRUMENTS OF VARIOUS TRIBES.

THE

Chapter 1. The Expedition

In March, 1861, I commenced an _ expedition to discover the sources of the Nile, with the hope of meeting the Hast African expedition of Captains Speke and Grant, that had been sent by the Englsh Government from the South, vid Zanzibar, for that object. I had not the presumption to publish my intention, as the sources of the Nile had hitherto defied all explorers, but I had inwardly determined to accomplsh this difficult task or to die in the attempt. From my youth I had been inured to hardships and endurance in wild sports in tropical climates, and when I eazed upon the map of Africa I had a wild hope, mingled with humility, that, even as the imsienificant worm bores through the hardest oak, | might by perseverance reach the heart of Africa. i

I could not conceive that anything in this world had power to resist a determined will, so long as health and life remained. The failure of every former attempt to reach the Nile source did not astonish me, as the expeditions had consisted of parties, which, when difficulties occur, generally end in difference of opinion and retreat: | therefore determined to pro-

B

9 PROGRAMME. [CHAP. I, eeed alone, trusting mn the guidance of a Divine Providence and the good fortune that sometimes attends a tenacity of purpose. I weighed carefully the chances of the undertaking. Before me—untrodden Africa ; against me—the obstacles that had defeated the world since its creation; on my side—a somewhat tough constitution, perfect independence, a long experience in savage life, and both time and means which I intended to devote to the object without limit. England had never sent an expedition to the Nile sources previous to that under the command of Speke and Grant. Bruce, ninety years ago, had succeeded in tracing the source of the Blue or Lesser Nile: thus the honour of that discovery belonged to Great Britain; Speke was on his road from the South; and I felt confident that my gallant friend would leave his bones upon the path rather than submit to failure. I trusted that England would not be beaten; and although I hardly dared to hope that I could succeed where others ereater than I had failed, I determined to sacrifice all in the attempt. Had I been alone it would have been no hard lot to die upon the untrodden path before me, but there was one who, although my greatest comfort, was also my greatest care; one whose life yet dawned at so early an age that womanhood was still a future. 1 shuddered at the prospect for her, should she be left alone in savage lands at my death; and gladly would ! have left her in the luxuries of home instead of exposing her to the miseries of Africa. It was in vain that I implored her to remain, and that I painted the difficulties and perils still blacker than I supposed they really would be: she was resolved, with woman’s constancy and devotion, to share all dangers and to follow me through each rough footstep of the wild life before me. And Ruth said, “Entreat me not to leave thee, or to return from following after thee : for whither thou goest I will go, and where thou lodgest I will lodge; thy people shall be my people, and thy God my God: where thou diest will I die, and there will aa tac |

Ca vA

Chap. I.| Start From Cairo. 3

I be buried : the Lord do so to me and more also, if aught but death part thee and me.”

Thus accompanied by my wife, on the 15th April, 1861, I sailed up the Nile from Cairo, The wind blew fair and strong from the north, and we flew towards the south against the stream, watching those mysterious waters with a firm resolve to track them to their distant fountain.

On arrival at Korosko in lat. 22° 44’ in twenty-six days from Cairo we started across the Nubian desert, thus cutting off the western bend of the Nile, and in seven days’ forced camel march we again reached the river at Abou Hamed. The journey through that desert is most fatiguing, as the march averages fifteen hours a day through a wilderness of scorching sand and clowing basalt rocks. The simoom was in full force at that season (May), and the thermometer, placed in the shade by the water skins, stood at 114° Fahr.

No drinkable water was procurable on the route : thus our supply was nearly expended upon reaching the welcome Nile. After eight days’ march on the margin of the river from Abott Hamed through desert, but in view of the palm trees that bordered the river, we arrived at Berbér, a considerable town in lat. 17° 58’ on the banks of the Nile.

Berbér is eight days’ camel march from Khartoum at the junction of the White and Blue Niles in lat, 15° 30’, and is the regular caravan route between that town and Cairo. :

From the shght experience I had gained in the journey to Berber, I felt convinced that success in-my Nile expedition would be impossible without a knowledge of Arabic. My dragoman had me completely in his power, and I resolved to become independent of all interpreters as soon as possible. I therefore arranged a plan of exploration for the first year to embrace the affluents to the Nile from the Abyssinian range of mountains, intending to follow up the Atbara river from its junction with the Nile im lat. 17° 37’

B 2

4 ARRIVE AT BERBER. Se CEVAP arts

(twenty miles south of Berber), and to examine all the Nile tributaries from the south-east as far as the Blue Nile, which river I hoped ultimately to descend to Khartoum. I imagined that twelve months would be sufficient to complete such an exploration, by which time I should have gained a sufficient knowledge of Arabic to enable me to start from Khartoum for my White Nile expedition. Accordingly I left Berbér on the 11th June, 1861, and arrived at the Atbara junction with the Nile on the 13th. There is no portion of the Nile so great in its volume as that part situated at the Atbara junction. The river Atbara is about 450 yards in average width, and from twenty-five to thirty feet deep during the rainy season. It brings down the entire drainage of eastern Abyssinia, receiving as affluents into its main stream the great rivers Taccazy (or Settite), in addition to the Salaam and Angrab.. The junction of the Atbara in lat. N. 17° 37’ is thus, in a direct line from Alexandria, about 840 geographical miles of latitude, and, including the westerly bend of the Nile, its bed will be about eleven hundred miles in length, from the mouth of its last tributary the Atbara until it meets the sea. Thus, eleven hundred miles of absorption and evaporation through sandy deserts and the delta must be sustained by the river between the Atbara junction and the Mediterranean: accordingly there 1s an immense loss of water ; and the grandest volume of the Nile must be just below the Atbara junction.