The adventures of Captain Bonneville, U.S.A., in the Rocky Mountains and the far West : digested from his journal and illustrated from various other sources

Front matter

LIBRARY

T:

i- if f

Chapter I. Page

State of the fur trade of the Rocky Mountains.— American enterprises.— General Ashley and his associates. — Sublette, a famous leader. — Yearly rendezvous among the mountains. — Stratagems and dangers of the trade. — Bands of trappers. — Indian banditti.

— Crows and Blackfeet. — Mountaineers.— Traders of the Far West. — Character and habits of the trapper 31

Chapter II

Departure from Fbrt Osage. — Modes of transportation. — Pack-horses.

— Wagons. — Walker and Cerre ; their characters. — Buoyant feelings on launching upon the Prairies. — Wild equipments of the trappers. — Their gambols and antics. — Difference of character between the American and French trappers. — Agency of the Kansas. — General Clarke. — White Plume, the Kansas Chief. — Night scene in a trader’s camp. — Colloquy between White Plume and the Captain. — Bee-hunters.— Their expeditions. — Their feuds with the Indians. — Bargaining talent of White Plume 43

Chapter III

Wide prairies. — Vegetable productions. — Tabular hills. — Slabs of sandstone. — Nebraska or Platte River.— Scanty fare. — Buffalo

Contents

PAGE skulls.— Wagons turned into boats.- Herds of Buffalo.— Cliffs resembling castles. — The Chimney.— Scott’s Bluffs.— Story connected with them. — The bighorn or ahsahta,— its nature and habits. — Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or goat of the mountains 55

Chapter IV

An alarm. — Crow Indians — their appearance — mode of approach — their vengeful errand — their curiosity. — Hostility between the Crows and Blackfeet. — Loving conduct of the Crows. — Laramie’s Fork. — First navigation of the Nebraska. — Great elevation of the country. — Rarity of the atmosphere — its effect on the wood- work of wagons. — Black Hills — their wild and broken scenery. — Indian dogs. — Crow trophies. — Sterile and dreary country. — Banks of the Sweet Water. — Buffalo hunting. — Adventure of Tom Cain, the Irish cook 64

Chapter V

Magnificent scenery. — Wind River Mountains. — Treasury of waters.

— A stray horse. — An Indian trail. — Trout streams. — The Great Green River Valley. — An alarm. — A band of trappers. — Fontenelle, his information. — Sufferings of thirst. — Encampment on the Seeds-ke-dee. — Strategy of rival traders. — Fortification of the camp. — The Blackfeet. — Banditti of the mountains. — Their character and habits 77

Chapter VI

Sublette and his band. — Robert Campbell. — Mr. Wyeth and a band of “Down-easters.” — Yankee enterprise. — Fitzpatrick — his adventure with the Blackfeet. — A rendezvous of mountaineers. —

The battle of Pierre’s Hole. — An Indian ambuscade. — Sublette’s return 89

CONTENTS.

Chapter VII. Page

Retreat of the Blackfeet* — Fontenelle’s camp in danger. — Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet. — Free trappers — their character, habits, dress, equipments, horses. — Game fellows of the mountains— their visit to the camp. — Good fellowship and good cheer.

— A carouse.— A swagger, a brawl, and a reconciliation 107

Chapter VIII

Plans for the winter. — Salmon River. — Abundance of salmon west of the mountains. — New arrangements. — Caches. — Cerre’s detachment. — Movements in Fontenelle’s camp. — Departure of the Blackfeet — their fortunes. — Wind Mountain streams. — Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear. — Bones of murdered travellers. — Visit to Pierre’s Hole. — Traces of the battle.— Nez Perce Indians. — Arrival at Salmon River f , . 115

Chapter IX

Horses turned loose. — Preparations for winter-quarters. — Hungry times. — Nez Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific habits, religious ceremonies. — Captain Bonneville’s conversations with them. — Their love of gambling 126

Chapter X

Blackfeet in the Horse Prairie. — Search after the hunters. — Difficulties and dangers. — A card party in the wilderness. — The card party interrupted. — “Old Sledge,” a losing game. — Visitors to the camp. — Iroquois hunters. — Hanging-eared Indians 133

CHAPTER XL

Rival trapping parties. — Maneuvering. — A desperate game. — V anderburgh and the Blackfeet. — Deserted camp fire. — A dark defile.

— An Indian ambush. — A fierce melee. — Fatal consequences. —

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Fitzpatrick and Bridger. — Trappers’ precautions. — Meeting with the Blackfeet. — More fighting. — Anecdote of a young Mexican and an Indian girl . . 189

Chapter XII

A winter camp in the wilderness. — Medley of trappers, hunters, and Indians. — Scarcity of game. — New arrangements in the camp. — Detachments sent to a distance. — Carelessness of the Indians when encamped. — Sickness among the Indians. — Excellent character of the Nez Perces. — The Captain’s effort as a pacificator. —

A Nez Perce’s argument in favor of war. — Bobberies by the Blackfeet. — Long suffering of the Nez Perces. — A hunter’s ely- , sium among the mountains. — More robberies. — The Captain preaches up a crusade. — The effect upon his hearers 148

Chapter XIV

The party enters the mountain gorge. — A wild fastness among the hills. — Mountain mutton. — Peace and plenty. — The amorous trapper. — A piebald wedding. — A free trapper’s wife — her gala equipments.— Christmas in the wilderness 168

Chapter XV

A hunt after hunters. — Hungry times. — A voracious repast. — Wintry weather. — Godin’s Biver. — Splendid winter scene on the great lava plain of Snake Biver. — Severe travelling and tramping in the snow. — Maneuvers of a solitary Indian horseman. — Encampment on Snake Biver. — Banneck Indians.— The Horse chief — his charmed life 176

CONTENTS.

Chapter XVI. Page

Misadventures of Matthieu and his party. — Return to the caches at Salmon River. — Battle between Nez Perces and Blackfeet. — Heroism of a Nez Perce woman-enrolled among the braves 188

Chapter XVII

Opening of the caches. — Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss. — Salmon River Mountains. — Superstition of an Indian trapper. — Godin’s River. — Preparations for trapping. — An alarm. — An interruption. — A rival band. — Phenomena of Snake River Plain.

— Vast clefts and chasms. — Ingulfed streams. — Sublime scenery.

— A grand buffalo hunt 197

Chapter XVIII

Meeting with Hodgkiss. — Misfortunes of the Nez Perces. — Schemes of Kosato, tne renegado — his foray into the Horse Prairie. — Invasion of Blackfeet. — Blue John, and his forlorn hope — their generous enterprise — their fate. — Consternation and despair of the village. — Solemn obsequies. — Attempt at Indian trade. — Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly. — Arrangements for autumn.— Breaking up of an encampment 207

Chapter XIX

Precautions in dangerous defiles.— Trappers’ mode of defense on a prairie. — A mysterious visitor. — Arrival in Green River Valley.

— Adventures of the detachments. — The forlorn partisan— his tale of disasters 219

Chapter XX

Gathering in Green River Valley. — Visitings and f eastings of leaders. — Rough wassailing among the trappers. — Wild blades of the

CONTENTS.

PAGE mountains. — Indian belles. — Potency of bright beads and red blankets. — Arrival of supplies. — Revelry and extravagance. —

Mad wolves. — The lost Indian 228

CHAPTER XXL

Schemes of Captain Bonneville. — The Great Salt Lake. — Expedition to explore it. — Preparations for a journey to the Bighorn 233

Chapter XXII

The Crow country. — A Crow paradise. — Habits of the Crows. — Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man— his fights with the Blackfeet — his elevation — his death. — Arapooish, the Crow chief — his eagle. — Adventure of Robert Campbell. — Honor among Crows 239

Chapter XXIII

Departure from Green River Valley. — Popo Agie— its course — the rivers into which it runs. — Scenery of the Bluffs. — The great Tar Spring. — Volcanic tracts in the Crow country. — Burning mountain [of Powder River.— Sulphur springs. — Hidden fires. — Colter’s Hell. — Wind River. — Campbell’s party. — Fitzpatrick and his trappers.— Captain Stewart, an amateur traveller. — Nathaniel Wyeth — anecdotes of his expedition to the Far West. — Disaster of Campbell’s party. — A union of bands. — The Bad Pass. —

The rapids. — Departure of Fitzpatrick. — Embarkation of peltries.— Wyeth and his bull boat. — Adventures of Captain Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains. — Adventures in the plain. — Traces of Indians.— -Travelling precautions.— Dangers of making a smoke. — The rendezvous 249

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV. Page

Adventures of the party of ten. — The Balaamite mule. — A dead point. — The mysterious elks. — A night attack. — A retreat. — Travelling under an alarm. — A joyful meeting. — Adventures of the other party. — A decoy elk. — Retreat to an island. — A savage dance of triumph. — Arrival at Wind River 261

Chapter XXV

Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River Valley. — Journey up the Popo Agie. — Buffaloes. — The staring white bears. — The smoke.—

The warm springs. — Attempt to traverse the Wind River Moun tains. — The Great Slope. — Mountain dells and chasms. — Crystal lakes. — Ascent of a snowy peak. — Sublime prospect. — A panorama.— “ Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains 268

Chapter XXVI

A retrograde move. — Channel of a mountain torrent. — Alpine scenery.—Cascades. — Beaver valleys. — Beavers at work — their architecture— their modes of felling trees. — Mode of trapping beaver.— Contests of skill. — A beaver “ up to trap.” — Arrival at the Green River caches 279

Chapter XXVII

Route towards Wind River. — Dangerous neighborhood. — Alarms and precautions. — A sham encampment. — Apparition of an Indian spy. — Midnight move. — A mountain defile. — The Wind River Valley. — Tracking a party. — Deserted camps. — Symptoms of Crows. — Meeting of comrades. — A trapper entrapped. — Crow pleasantry. — Crow spies. — A decampment. — Return to Green River Valley. — Meeting with Fitzpatrick’s party — their adventures among the Crows. — Orthodox Crows 287

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVIII. Tag's

A region of natural curiosities. — The plain of white clay. — Hot springs.— The Beer Spring. — Departure to seek the free trappers.

— Plain of Portneuf.— Lava. — Chasms and gullies. — Banneck Indians— their hunt of the buffalo. — Hunters’ feast. — Trencher heroes. — Bullying of an absent foe. — The damp comrade. — The Indian spy. — Meeting with Hodgkiss — his adventures. — Poordevil Indians. — Triumph of the Bannecks. — Blackfeet policy in war 301

Chapter XXIX

Winter camp at the Portneuf. — Fine springs. — The Banneck Indians — their honesty. — Captain Bonneville prepares for an expedition.

— Christmas. — The American Falls. — Wild scenery. — Fishing Falls. — Snake Indians. — Scenery on the Bruneau. — View of volcanic country from a mountain. — Powder River. — Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers — their character, habits, habitations, dogs. — Vanity at its last shift 313

Chapter XXX

Temperature of the climate. — Root Diggers on horseback. — An Indian guide. — Mountain prospects. — The Grand Rond. — Difficulties on Snake River. — A scramble over the Blue Mountains. — Sufferings from hunger. — Prospect of the Immahah Valley.—

The exhausted traveller 327

Chapter XXXI

Progress in the valley. — An Indian cavalier. — The captain falls into a lethargy. — A Xez Perce patriarch. — Hospitable treatment. —

The bald head. — Bargaining. — Value of an old plaid cloak.—

The family horse. — The cost of an Indian present • 338

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXII. Page

Nez Perce camp. — A chief with a hard name. — The Big Hearts of the east. — Hospitable treatment. — The Indian guides. — Mysterious councils. — The loquacious chief. — Indian tomb. — Grand Indian reception. — An Indian feast. — Town criers. — Honesty of the Nez Perces. — The Captain’s attempt at healing 347

Chapter XXXIII

Scenery of the Way-lee- way. — A substitute for tobacco. — Sublime scenery of Snake River. — The garrulous old chief and his cousin.

— A Nez Perce meeting. — A stolen skin. — The scapegoat dog. — Mysterious conferences. — The little chief. — His hospitality. —

The captain’s account of the United States. — His healing skill. . 359

Chapter XXXIV

Fort Wallah- Wallah — its commander. — Indians in its neighborhood.

— Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their improvement. — Religion.

— Code of laws. — Range of the Lower Nez Perces. — Camash, and other roots. — Nez Perce horses. — Preparations for departure. — Refusal of supplies. — Departure. — A laggard and glutton 371

Chapter XXXV

The uninvited guest. — Free and easy manners. — Salutary jokes. — A prodigal son. — Exit of the glutton. — A sudden change in fortune.— Danger of a visit to poor relations. — Plucking of a prosperous man. — A vagabond toilet. — A substitute for the very fine horse. — Hard travelling. — The uninvited guest and the patriarchal colt. — A beggar on horseback. — A catastrophe. — Exit of the merry vagabond 378

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXVI. Tag*

The difficult mountain. — A smoke and consultation. — The Captain’s speech. — An icy turnpike. — Danger of a false step. — Arrival on Snake River. — Return to Portneuf. — Meeting of comrades 389

Chapter XXXVII

Departure for the rendezvous. — A war party of Blackfeet. — A mock bustle. — Sham fires at night. — Warlike precautions. — Dangers of a night attack. — A panic among horses. — Cautious march. —

The Beer Springs. — A mock carousal. — Skirmishing with buffaloes.— A buffalo bait. — Arrival at the rendezvous. — Meeting of various bands 397

Chapter Xxxviii

Plan of the Salt Lake expedition. — Great Sandy deserts. — Sufferings from thirst. — Ogden’s River. — Trails and smoke of lurking savages. — Thefts at night. — A trapper’s revenge. — Alarms of a guilty conscience. — A murderous victory. — Californian mountains.— Plains along the Pacific. — Arrival at Monterey — account of the place and neighborhood. — Lower California — its extent. —

The peninsula — soil — climate — production. — Its settlement by the Jesuits — their sway over the Indians — their expulsion. — Ruins of a missionary establishment. — Sublime scenery. — Upper California. — Missions — their power and policy. — Resources of the country.-— Designs of foreign nations 404

Chapter XXXIX

Gay life at Monterey. — Mexican horsemen. — A bold dragoon.— Use of the lasso. — Vaqueros. — Noosing a bear. — Fight between a bull and a bear. — Departure from Monterey. — Indian horse-stealers.

— Outrages committed by the travellers. — Indignation of Captain Bonneville 417

CONTENTS,

Chapter XL. Page

Travellers’ tales. — Indian lurkers. — Prognostics of Buckeye. — Signs and portents. — The medicine wolf.— An alarm. — An ambush.—

The captured provant. — Triumph of Buckeye. — Arrival of supplies.— Grand carouse.— Arrangements for the year. — Mr. Wyeth and his new levied band , , , 423

Chapter XLII

Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia.— Advance of Wyeth. — Efforts to keep the lead. — Hudson’s Bay party. — A junketing. — A delectable beverage. — Honey and alcohol. — High carousing. — The Canadian bon vivant . — A cache. — A rapid move.

— Wyeth and his plans. — His travelling companions. — Buffalo hunting. — More conviviality. — An interruption 453

Chapter XLIII

A rapid march. — A cloud of dust. — Wild horsemen. — “ High jinks.”

— Horse-racing and rifle-shooting.— The game of “ Hand.” — The fishing season. — Mode of fishing. — Table lands. — Salmon fishers.

— The Captain’s visit to an Indian lodge. — The Indian girl. —

The pocket mirror. — Supper. — Troubles of an evil conscience. . 461

Chapter XLIV

Outfit of a trapper. — Risks to which he is subjected. — Partnership of trappers. — Enmity of Indians. — Distant smoke. — A country on fire. — Gun Creek. — Grand Rond. — Fine pastures. — Perplexities

in a smoky country. — Conflagration of forests 470

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XLY.

PAGB

The Skynses — their traffic— hunting— food — horses. — A horse-race. — Devotional feelings of the Skynses, Nez Perces, and Flatheads. — Prayers. — Exhortations. — A preacher on horseback. — Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes. — A new light 477

CHAPTER XLYI.

Scarcity in the camp. — Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s Bay Company.— Conduct of the Indians. — A hungry retreat.— John Day’s River. — The Blue Mountains. — Salmon fishing on Snake River.

— Messengers from the Crow country. — Bear River Valley. — Immense migration of buffalo. — Danger of buffalo hunting. — A wounded Indian. — Eutaw Indians. — A “ surround ” of antelopes. 484

CHAPTER XLVII.

A festive winter. — Conversion of the Shoshonies. — Visit of two free trappers. — Gayety in the camp. — A touch of the tender passion.

— The reclaimed squaw. — An Indian fine lady. — An elopement.

— A pursuit. — Market value of a bad wife 494

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Breaking up of winter quarters. — Move to Green River. — A trapper and his rifle. — An arrival in camp. — A free trapper and his squaw in distress. — Story of a Blackfoot belle 50i

CHAPTER XLIX.

A rendezvous at Wind River. —Campaign of Montero and his brigade in the Crow country. — Wars between the Crows and Blackfeet.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

—Death of Arapooish. — Blackfeet lurkers.— Sagacity of the horse. — Dependence of the hunter on his horse. — Return to the settlements 508