Astoria; or, Anecdotes of an enterprise beyond the Rocky mountains

Introduction

In the course of occasional visits to Canada many years since, I became intimately acquainted with some of the principal partners of the great Northwest Fur Company, who at that time lived in genial style at Montreal, and kept almost open house for the stranger. At their hospitable boards I o< casionally met with partners, and clerks, and hardy fur traders from the interior posts; men who had passed years remote from civilized society, among distant and savage tribes, and who had wonders to recount of their wide and wild peregrinations, their hunting exploits, and their perilous adventures and ^Rir-breadth escapes among the Indians. I was at an age ^^hen imagination lends its coloring to every thing, and the Tstories of these Sinbads of the wilderness made the life of a ^Trapper and fur trader perfect romance to me. I even medicated at one time a visit to the remote posts of the company in ^he boats which annually ascended the lakes and rivers, being ^ihereto invited by one of the partners ; and I have ever since ^regretted that I was prevented by circumstances from carrying my intention into effect. From those early impressions, the grand enterprises of the great fur companies, and the hazardous errantry of their associates in the wild parts of our vast continent, have always been themes of charmed interest to me ; and I have felt anxious to get at the details of their adventurous expeditions among the savage tribes that peopled the depths of the wilderness.

About two years ago, not long after my return from a tour upon the prairies of the far West, I had a conversation with my friend, Mr. John Jacob Astor, relative to that portion of our country, and to the adventurous traders to Santa Fe and the Columbia. This led him to advert to a great enterprise set on foot and conducted by him, between twenty and thirty years

4 INTRODUCTION.

since, having for its object to carry the fir trade across the Eocky Mountains, and to sweep the shores of the Pacific.

Finding that I took an interest in the subject, he expressed a regret that the true nature and extent of his enterprise and its national character and importance had never been understood, and a wish that I would undertake to give an account of it. The suggestion struck upon the chord of early associations, already vibrating in my mind. It occurred to me that a work of this kind might comprise a variety of those curious details, so interesting to me, illustrative of the fur trade ; of its remote and adventurous enterprises, and of the various people, and tribes, and castes, and characters, civilized and savage, affected by its operations. The journals, and letters also, of the adventurers by sea and land employed by Mr. Astor in his comprehensive project, might throw light upon portions of our country quite out of the track of ordinary travel, and as yet but little known. I therefore felt disposed to undertake the task, provided documents of sufficient extent and minuteness could be furnished to me. All the papers relative to the enterprise were accordingly submitted to my inspection. Among them were journals and letters narrating expeditions by sea, and journeys to and fro across the Eocky Mountains by routes before untravelled, together with documents illustrative of savage and colonial life on the borders of the Pacific. With such materials in hand, I undertook the work. The trouble of rummaging among business papers, and of collecting and collating facts from amid tedious and commonplace details, was spared me by my nephew, Pierre M. Irving, who acted as my pioneer, and to whom I am greatly indebted for smoothing my path and lightening my labors.

As the journals on which I chiefly depended had been kept by men of business, intent upon the main object of the enterprise, and but little versed in science, or curious about matters not immediately bearing upon their interests, and as they were written often in moments of fatigue or hurry, amid the inconveniences of wild encampments, they were often meagre in % their details, furnishing hints to provoke rather than narratives to satisfy inquiry. I have, therefore, availed myself occasionally of collateral lights supplied by the published journals of other travellers who have visited the scenes described : such as Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, Bradbury, Breckenridge, Long, Franchere, and Eoss Cox, and make a general acknowledgment of aid received from these Quarters.

INTRODUCTION-. 5

The work I here present to the public is necessarily of a rambling and somewhat disjointed nature, comprising various expeditions and adventures by land and sea. The facts, how- ■ever, will prove to be linked and banded together by one grand scheme, devised and conducted by a master spirit ; one ^et of characters, also, continues throughout, appearing occasionally, though sometimes at long intervals, and the whole enterprise winds up by a regular catastrophe; so that the work, without any labored attempt at artificial construction, actually possesses much of that unity so much sought after in works of fiction ard (r>Lsidc*^d so important to the interest of ^ve*y history.

Contents

±"AGK

Introduction ' 3

Chapter I

Objects of American enterprise — gold hunting and fur trading — their effect on colonization — early French Canadian settlers— Ottowa and Huron hunters— an Indian trading camp— couriers des bois, or rangers of the woods— their roaming life— their revels and excesses — licensed traders — missionaries — trading posts — primitive French Canadian merchant — his establishment and dependants — British Canadian fur merchant — origin of the Northwest Company —its constitution— its internal trade— a candidate for the company— privations in the wilderness — northwest clerks — northwest partners — a northwest nabob —feudal notions in the forest — the lords of the lakes— Fort William— its parliamentary hall and banqueting room— was sailing in the wilderness 17

Chapter II

Rise of the Mackinaw Company— attempt of the American government to counteract foreign influence over the Indian tribes— John Jacob Astor— his birth-place— his arrival in the United States— what first turned his attention to the fur trade — his character, enterprises, and success — his communications with the American government— origin of the American Fur Company

CHAPTER HI.

Fur trade in the Pacific — American coasting voyages — Russian enterprises — discovery of the Columbia River — Carver's project to found a settlement there — Mackenzie's expedition — Lewis and Clarke's journey across the Rocky Mountains — Mr. Astor' s grand commercial scheme— his correspondence on the subject with Mr. Jefferson— his negotiations with the Northwest Company— his steps to carry his scheme into effect 30

Chapter IV

Two expeditions set on foot— the Tonquin and her crew— Captain Thorn, his character— the partners and clerks— Canadian voyageurs, their habits, employments, dress . character, songs— expedition of a Canadian boat and its crew by land and water— arrival at New York— preparations for a sea voyage — northwest braggarts— underhand precautions— letter of instructions ^0

Chapter V. Page

Sailing of the Tonquin— a rigid commander and a reckless crew— landsmen on shipboard— fresh-water sailors at sea— lubber nests— ship fare— a Labrador veteran — literary clerks — curious travellers — Robinson Crusoe's Island — quarter-deck quarrels— Falkland Islands— a wild goose chase— Port Egmont— epitaph hunting— Old Mortality —penguin shooting— sportsmen left in the lurch— a hard pull— further altercations— arrival at Owyhee 46

Chapter VI

Owyhee— Sandwich Islanders— their nautical talents— Tamaahmaah— his navy —his negotiations— views of Mr. Astor with respect to the Sandwich Islands— Karakakora— royal monopoly of pork— description of the islanders— gayeties on shore— chronicler of the island— place where Captain Cook was killed— John Young, a nautical governor— his story— Waititi— a royal residence— a royal visit— grand ceremonials— close dealing— a royal pork merchant— grievances of a matter- of -fact man 54

CHAPTER VH.

Departure from the Sandwich Islands— misunderstandings— miseries of a suspicious man— arrival at the Columbia— dangerous service— gloomy apprehensions—bars and breakers— perils of the ship — disasters of a boat's crewburial of a Sandwich Islander 64

CHAPTER VHI.

Mouth of the Columbia— the native tribes— their fishing— their canoes— bold navigators— equestrian Indians and piscatory Indians, difference in their physical organization — search for a trading site — expedition of M'Dougal and David Stewart — Comcomly, the one-eyed chieftain — influence of wealth in savage life— slavery among the natives— an aristocracy of Flatheads— hospitality among the Chinooks— Comcomly 's daughter — her conquest 70

CHAPTER IX.

Point George— founding of Astoria— Indian visitors— their reception — the captain taboos the ship— departure of the Tonquin— comments on the conduct of Captain Thorn 75

CHAPTER X.

Disquieting rumors from the interior— reconnoitering party— preparations for a trading post— an unexpected arrival— a spy in the camp — expedition into the interior — shores of the Columbia — Mount Coffin — Indian Sepulchre — the land of spirits— Columbian valley— Vancouver's Point — falls and rapids — a great fishing mart — the village of Wish-ram — difference between fishing Indians and hunting Indians— effect of habits of trade on the Indian character— post established at the Oakinagan 78

CHAPTER XI.

Alarm at Astoria— rumor of Indian hostilities— preparations for defence — tragical fate of the Tonquin .' 86

CHAPTER XH.

PAGE

Gloom at Astoria— an ingenious stratagem— the small-pox chief— launching of the Dolly — an arrival — a Canadian trapper — a freeman of the forest — an Iroquois hunter— winter on the Columbia— festivities of New Year . 94

CHAPTER HE.

Expedition by land— Wilson P. Hunt— his character— DoDaldM'Kenzie— recruiting service among the voyageurs— a bark [canoe — chapel of St. Anne— votive offerings— pious carousals— a ragged regiment— Mackinaw— picture of a trading post— frolicking voyageurs— swells and swaggers— Indian coxcombs— a man of the north— jockey ship of voyageurs— inemcacy of gold— weight of a feather— Mr. Ramsay Crooks — his character — his risks among the Indians — his warning concerning the Sioux and Blackfeet— embarkation of recruits— parting scenes between brothers, cousins, wives, sweethearts and pot companions, gg

CHAPTER XIV.

St. Louis— its situation— motley population— French Creole traders and their dependants— Missouri Fur Company— Mr. Manuel Lisa— Mississippi boatmen —vagrant Indians— Kentucky hunters— [old French mansion— fiddling— billiards — Mr. Joseph Miller — his character — recruits — voyage up the Missouri — difficulties of the river — merits of Canadian voyageurs — arrival at the Nodowa— Mr. Robert M'Lellan joins the party— John Day, a Virginia hunter— description of him— Mr. Hunt returns to St. Louis 106

CHAPTER XV.

Opposition of the Missouri Fur Company— Blackfeet Indians— Pierre Dorion, a half-breed interpreter— old Dorion and his hybrid progeny— family quarrelscross purposes between Dorion and Lisa — renegadoes from Nodowa — perplexities of a commander— Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall join the expedition— legal embarrassments of Pierre Dorion — departure from St. Louis — conjugal discipline of a half breed— annual swelling of the rivers— Daniel Boon, the patriarch of Kentucky— John Colter— his adventures among the Indians— rumors of danger ahead— Fort Osage— an Indian war-feast— troubles in the Dorion family -Buffaloes and turkey-buzzards Ill

CHAPTER XVI.

Return of spring— appearance of snakes— great flights of wild pigeons— renewal of the voyage— night encampments — Platte River — ceremonials on passing it— signs of Indian war parties— magnificent prospect at Papillion Creekdesertion of two hunters— an irruption into the camp of Indian desperadoesvillage of the Omahas— anecdotes of the tribe— feudal wars of the Indiansstory of Blackbird, the famous Omaha chief 121

CHAPTER XVII.

Rumors of danger from the Sioux Tetons— ruthless character of those savages — pirates of the Missouri — their affair with Crooks and M'Lellan — a trading expedition broken up — M'Lellan's vow of vengeance — uneasiness in the camp — desertions—departure from the Omalm, village— meeting with Jones and

PAGE

Carson, two adventurous trappers— scientific pursuits of Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall— zeal of a botanist^adventure of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian—expedient of the pocket compass and microscope— a messenger from Lisa— motives for pressing forward 131

CHAPTER XVIII.

Camp gossip— deserters— recruits— Kentucky hunters— a veteran woodman — tidings of Mr. Henry— danger from the Blackfeet— alteration of plans— scenery of the river— buffalo roads— iron ore— country of the Sioux— a land of danger—apprehensions of the voyageurs— Indian scouts— threatened hostilities— a council of war— an array of battle— a parley— the pipe of peace— speechmaking 13 8

CHAPTER XIX.

±ne great bend of the Missouri— Crooks and M'Lellan meet with two of their Indian opponents— wanton outrage of a white man the cause of Indian hostilities —dangers and precautions— an Indian war party— dangerous situation of Mr. Hunt— a friendly encampment— feasting and dancing— approach of Manuel Lisa and his party— a grim meeting between old rivals— Pierre Dorion in a fury— a burst of chivalry 146

CHAPTER XX.

Features of the wilderness— herds of buffalo— antelopes— their varieties and habits— John Day— his hunting stratagem— interview with three Arickaras— negotiations between the rival parties— the Left-handed and the Big Man, two Arickara chiefs— Arickara village— its inhabitants— ceremonials on landing — a council lodge— grand conference— speech of Lisa— negotiation for horsesshrewd suggestion of Gray Eyes, an Arickara chief— encampment of the trading parties 152

CHAPTER XXI.

An Indian horse fair— love of the Indians for horses— scenes in the Arickara village — Indian hospitality — duties of Indian women — game habits of the men — their indolence — love of gossiping — rumors of lurking enemies — scouts — an alarm— a sallying forth— Indian dogs— return of a horse-stealing party— an Indian deputation— fresh alarms— return of a successful war party— dress of the Arickaras — Indian toilet — triumphal entry of the war party— meetings of relations and friends— Indian sensibility — meeting of a wounded warrior and his mother— festivities and lamentations 159

CHAPTER XXH.

Wilderness of the Far West— great American desert— parched seasons— Black Hills— Rocky Mountains— wandering and predatory hordes— speculations on what may be the future population — apprehended dangers — a plot to desert —Rose the interpreter— his sinister character— departure from the Arickara village 167

CHAPTER XXIII.

Summer weather of the prairies— purity of the atmosphere — Canadians on the march— sickness in the camp— Big River— vulgar nomenclature — suggestiop> c

PAGE

about the original Indian names— camp of Cheyennes— trade for horsescharacter of the Cheyennes— their horsemanship— historical anecdotes of the tribe 171

CHAPTER XXIV.

New distribution of horses— secret information of treason in the camp— Rose the interpreter— his perfidious character— his plots— anecdotes of the Crow Indians—notorious horse-stealers— some account of Rose— a desperado of the frontier 175

CHAPTER XXV.

Substitute for fuel on the prairies— fossil trees— fierceness of the buffaloes when in heat— three hunters missing— signal fires and smokes— uneasiness concerning the lost men— a plan to forestall a rogue— new arrangement with Rose — return of the wanderers 178

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Black Mountains— haunts of predatory Indians— their wild and broken appearance—superstition concerning them — thunder spirits singular noises in the mountains— secret mines— hidden treasures— mountains in labor— scientific explanation— impassable defiles — black-tailed deer — the bighorn or ahsahta-^ prospect from a lofty height — plain with herds of buffalo — distant peaks of the Rocky Mountains— alarms in the camp— tracks of grizzly bears— dangerous nature of this animal— adventures of William Cannon and John Day with grizzly bears = = * * > « 182

CHAPTER XXVn.

Indian trail— rough mountain travelling— sufferings from hunger and thirst — Powder River— game in abundance — a hunter's paradise— mountain peak seen at a great distance— one of the Big Horn chain— Rocky Mountains— extent — appearance— height— the great American desert— various characteristics of the mountains— Indian superstitions concerning them— land of souls— towns of the free and generous spirits— happy hunting grounds 188

CHAPTER XXVHI.

Region of the Crow Indians— scouts on the lookouts-visit from a crew of hard riders— a Crow camp — presents to the Crow chief — bargaining — Crow bullies — Rose among his Indian friends — parting with the Crows — perplexities among the mountains— more of the Crows— equestrian children— search after stragglers 19i

CHAPTER XXIX.

Mountain glens— wandering band of savages— anecdotes of Shoshonies and Flatheads— root diggers— their solitary lurking habits— gnomes of the mountains- Wind River— scarcity of food— alteration of route — the Pilot Knobs or Tetons —branch of the Colorado— hunting camp Igg

CHAPTER XXX.

A plentiful hunting camp— Shoshonie hunters— Hoback's River— Mad Riveraencampment near the Pilot Knobs— a consultation— preparations for a perilous voyage 202

CHAPTER XXXI.

A consultation whether to proceed by land or water— preparations for boatbuilding—an exploring party— a party of trappers detached— two Snake visitors—their report concerning the river— confirmed by the exploring party- Mad River abandoned— arrival at Henry's Fort— detachment of Robinson, Hoback and Rezner to trap— Mr. Miller resolves to accompany them— their departure 204

CHAPTER XXXH

Scanty fare— a mendicant Snake— embarkation on Henry River— joy of the voyageurs— arrival at Snake River— rapids and breakers— beginning of misfortunes—Snake encampments— parley with a savage— a second disaster— loss of a boatman— the Caldron Linn 210

CHAPTER XXXTTT.

Gloomy council— exploring parties— discouraging reports— disastrous experiment—detachments in quest of succor — caches, how made— return of one of the detachments— unsuccessful— further disappointments— the Devil's Scuttle Hole 215

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Determination of the party to proceed on foot — dreary deserts between Snake River and the Columbia— distribution of effects preparatory to a march — division of the party— rugged march along the river— wild and broken scenery — Shoshonies — alarm of a Snake encampment — intercourse with the Snakes — horse-dealing— value of a tin kettle— sufferings from thirst— a horse reclaimed — fortitude of an Indian woman— scarcity of food— dog's flesh a dainty— news of Mr. Crooks and his party— painful travelling among the mountains— snow-storms— a dreary mountain prospect — a bivouac during a wintry night — return to the river bank 220

CHAPTER XXXV.

An unexpected meeting— navigation in a skin canoe— strange fears of suffering men— hardships of Mr. Crooks and his comrades— tidings of M'Lellan— a retrograde march— a willow raft— extreme suffering of some of the party— illness of Mr. Crooks— impatience of some of the men— necessity of leaving the laggards behind 228

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Mr. Hunt overtakes the advanced party— Pierre Dorion, and his skeleton horse — a Shoshonie camp — a justifiable outrage— feasting on horse flesh — Mr. Crooks brought to the camp — undertakes to relieve his men — the skin ferry-boat—frenzy of Prevost — his melancholy fate— enfeebled state of John Day—

PAGE

Mr. Crooks again left behind— the party emerge from among the mountainsinterview with Shoshonies — a guide procured to conduct the party across a mountain— ferriage across Snake River — reunion with Mr. Crooks' s men — final departure from the river . 232

CHAPTER XXXVn.

Departure from the Snake River— mountains to the north— wayworn travellers —an increase of the Dorion family— a camp of Shoshonies— a New- Year festival among the Snakes— a wintry march through the mountains— a sunny prospect and milder climate— Indian horse-tracks— grassy valleys— a camp of Sciatogas— joy of the travellers— dangers of abundance— habits of the Sciatogas— fate of Carrier e— the Umatalla— arrival at the banks of the Columbia —tidings of the scattered members of the expedition— scenery on the Columbia—tidings of Astoria— arrival at the falls 237

CHAPTER XXXVHI.

The village of Wish-ram —roguery of the inhabitants— their habitations— tidings of Astoria— of the Tonquin massacre— thieves about the camp— a band of braggarts — embarkation — arrival at Astoria — a joyful reception — old comrades —adventures of Reed, M'Lellan, and M'Kenzie among the Snake River Mountains—rejoicing at Astoria 245

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Scanty fare during the winter— a poor hunting ground— the return of the fishing season— the uthlecan or smelt — its qualities— vast shoals of it— sturgeon— Indian modes of taking it— the salmon— different species— nature of the country about the coast — forests and forest trees — a remarkable flowering vine — animals— birds— reptiles— climate west of the mountains— mildness of temperature—soil of the coast and the interior 251

CHAPTER XL.

Natives in the neighborhood of Astoria— their persons and characteristicscauses of deformity — their dress — their contempt of beards — ornaments — armor and weapons — mode of flattening the head — extent of the custom — religious belief — the two great spirits of the air and of the fire — priests or medicine men — the rival idols — polygamy a cause of greatness — petty wayf are — music, dancing, gambling — thieving a virtue — keen traders — intrusive habits — abhorrence of drunkenness — anecodote of Comeomly 255

CHAPTER XLI.

Spring arrangements at Astoria — various expeditions set out — the Long Narrows—pilfering Indians—thievish tribe at Wish-ram— portage at the fallsportage by moonlight— an attack, a rout, and a robbery— Indian cure for cowardice — a parley and compromise — the dispatch party turn back — meet Crooks and John Day— their sufferings— Indian perfidy— arrival at Astoria.. 26)

CHAPTER XLII.

Comprehensive views— to supply the Russian fur establishment— an agent sent to Russia— project of an annual ship— the Beaver fitted out— her equipment

PASS

and crew— instructions to the captain— the Sandwich Islands— rumors of the fate of the Tonquin— precautions on reaching the mouth of the Columbia ... 269

CHAPTER XLIII.

Active operations at Astoria— various expeditions fitted out — Robert Stuart and a party destined for New York— singular conduct of John Day— his fatepiratical pass and hazardous portage— rattlesnakes— their abhorrence of tobacco — arrival among the Wallah-Wallahs — purchase of horses — departure of Stuart and his band for the mountains 272

CHAPTER XLIV.

Route of Mr. Stuart — dreary wilds— thirsty travelling— a grove and streamlet— the Blue Mountains— a fertile plain with rivulets— sulphur spring— route along Snake River— rumors of white men — the Snake and his horse — a Snake guide— a midnight decampment— unexpected meeting with old comradesstory of trappers' hardships— Salmon Falls— a great fishery— mode of spearing salmon— arrival at the Caldron Linn— state of the caches— new resolution of the three Kentucky trappers 278

CHAPTER XLV.

The Snake River deserts— scanty fare— bewildered travellers— prowling Indians —a giant Crow chief— a bully rebuked— Indian signals— smoke on the mountains—Mad River— an alarm— an Indian foray— a scamper— a rude Indian joke — a sharpshooter balked of his shot 288

CHAPTER XLVI.

Travellers unhorsed— pedestrian preparations— prying spies— bonfire of baggage—a march on foot — rafting a river — the wounded elk— Indian trails— wilful conduct of Mr. MLellan— grand prospect from a mountain— distant craters of volcanoes— Illness of Mr. Crooks 294

CHAPTER XLVH.

Ben Jones and a grizzly bear— rocky heights— mountain torrents— traces of M'Lellan— volcanic remains — mineral earths — peculiar clay for pottery — dismal plight of M'Lellan— starvation— shocking proposition of a desperate man— a broken-down bull— a ravenous meal— Indian graves— hospitable Snakes —a forlorn alliance 300

CHAPTER XLVHI.

Spanish River scenery— trial of Crow Indians — a snow-storm — a rousing fire and a buffalo feast — a plain of salt — climbing a mountain— volcanic summit —extinguished crater— marine shells — encampment on a prairie— successful hunting— good cheer— romantic scenery— rocky defile— foaming rapids— the fiery narrows 30?

CHAPTER XLIX.

Wintry storms— a halt and council — cantonment for the winter— fine hunting country— game of the mountains and plains— successful hunting— Mr. Crooks

COIfTANtS.

PAGE

and a grizzly bear — the wigwam — bighorn and blacktails— beef and venison — good quarters and good cheer— an alarm — an intrusion — unwelcome guestsdesolation of the larder — gormandizing exploits of hungry savages — good quarters abandoned 312

CHAPTER L.

Rough wintry travelling— hills and plains— snow and ice— disappearance of game— a vast dreary plain — a second halt for the winter — another wigwam — New Year's feast— buffalo humps, tongues, and marrow bones— return of spring — launch of canoes — bad navigation — pedestrian march — vast prairies — deserted camps — Pawnee squaws — an Otto Indian — news of war — voyage down the Platte and the Missouri— reception at Fort Osage— arrival at St. Louis 318

CHATTER LI.

Agreement between Mr. Astor and the Russian Fur Company— war between the United States and Great Britain — instructions to Captain Sowle of the Beaver —fitting out of the Lark— news of the arrival of Mr. Stuart 324

CHAPTER LH.

Banks of the Wallah- Wallah— departure of David Stuart for the Oakinagan— Mr. Clarke's route up Lewis River — Chipunnish, or Pierced-nose Indians — their character, appearance, and habits — thievish habits — laying up of the boats — post at Pointed Heart and Spokan Rivers— M'Kenzie, his route up the Camoenum— bands of travelling Indians— expedition of Reed to the cachesadventures of wandering voyageurs and trappers 328

CHAPTER LIH.

Departure of Mr. Hunt in the Beaver — precautions at the factory — detachment to the Wallamut— gloomy apprehensions— arrival of M'Kenzie— affairs at Shahaptan— news of war— dismay of M'Dougal— determination to abandon Astoria— departure of M'Kenzie for the interior— adventure at the rapidsvisit to the ruffians of Wish-ram— a perilous situation— meeting with M'Tavish and his party— arrival at the Shahaptan— plundered caches— determination of the wintering partners not to leave the country — arrival of Clarke among the Nez Perces — the affair of the silver goblet — hanging of an Indian — arrival of the wintering partners at Astoria 333

CHAPTER LIV.

The partners displeased with M'Dougal— equivocal conduct of that gentleman — partners agree to abandon Astoria — sale of goods to M'Tavish— arrangements for the year— manifesto signed by the partners —departure of M'Tavish for the interior 342

CHAPTER LV.

Anxieties of Mr. Astor — memorial of the North-west Company — tidings of a British naval expedition against Astoria — Mr. Astor applies to government for protection — the frigate Adams ordered to be fitted out — bright news from Astoria— sunshine suddenly overclouded 345

CHAPTER LVI.

PAGE

Affairs of state at Astoria— M'Dougal proposes for the hand of an Indian Princess—matrimonial embassy to Comcomly— matrimonial notions among the Chin ooks— settlements and pin-money— the bringing home of the bride— a managing father-in-law— arrival of Mr. Hunt at Astoria . . . 347

CHAPTER LVH.

Voyage of the Beaver to New Archangel— a Russian governor— royst^ e *uit* —the tyranny of the table— hard drinking bargains— voyage to Kamschatka— seal-catching establishment at St. Paul's— storms at sea— Mr. Hunt left at the Sandwich Islands— transactions of the Beaver at Canton— return of Mr. Hunt to Astoria 349

CHAPTER LVin.

Arrangements among the partners— Mr. Hunt sails in the Albatross—* c* av the Marquesas— news of the frigate Phoebe— Mr. Hunt proceeds to the Sandwich Islands— voyage of the Lark— her shipwreck— transactions with the natives of the Sandwich Islands — conduct of Tamaahmaah 356

CHAPTER LIX.

Arrival of M'Tavish at Astoria— conduct of his followers— negotiations oi jhDougal and M'Tavish— bargain for the transfer of Astoria— doubts entertained of the loyalty of M'Dougal , 361

CHAPTER LX.

Arrival of a strange sail— agitation at Astoria— warlike offer of Comcomly— Astoria taken possession of by the British— indignation of Comcomly at the conduct of his son-in-law 365

CHAPTER LXI.

Arrival of the brig Pedler at Astoria— breaking up of the establishment — departure of several of the company — tragical story told by the squaw of Pierre Dorion— fate of Reed and his companions— attempts of Mr. Astor to renew his enterprise — disappointment— concluding observations and reflections 369

Appendix

Draught of a petition to Congress, sent by Mr. Astor in 1812 377

Letter from Mr. Gallatin to Mr. Astor 378

Notices of the present state of the Fur Trade, chiefly extracted from an article

published in Silliman's Journal for January, 1834 380

Height of the Rocky Mountains : 383

Suggestions with respect to the Indian tribes, and, the protection of our trad,e. . 384

ASTORIA.

Chapter I

Two leading objects of commercial gain have given birth to wide and daring enterprise in the early history of the Americas : the precious metals of the south, and the rich peltries of the north. While the fiery and magnificent Spaniard, inflamed with the mania for gold, has extended his discoveries and conquests over those brilliant countries scorched by the ardent sun of the tropics, the adroit and buoyant Frenchman, and the cool and calculating Briton, have pursued the less splendid, but no less lucrative, traffic in furs amid the hyperborean regions of the Canadas, until they have advanced even within the Arctic circle.

These two pursuits have thus in a manner been the pioneers and precursors of civilization. Without pausing on the borders, they have penetrated at once, in defiance of difficulties and clangers, to the heart of savage countries : laying open the hidden secrets of the wilderness; leading the way to remote regions of beauty and fertility that might have remained unexplored for ages, and beckoning after them the slow and pausing steps of agriculture and civilization.

It was the fur trade, in fact, which gave early sustenance and vitality to the great Canadian provinces. Being destitute of the precious metals, at that time the leading objects of American enterprise, they were long neglected by the parent country. The French adventurers, however, who had settled on the banks of the St. Lawrence, soon found that in the rich peltries of the interior, they had sources of wealth that might almost rival the mRes of Mexico and Peru. The Indians, as yet unacquainted with the artificial value given to some descriptions of furs, in civilized life, brought quantities of the most precious kinds and bartered them away for European trinkets and cheap commodities. Immense profits were thus made by the early traders, and the traffic was pursued with avidity.