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Astoria; or, Enterprise beyond the Rocky Mountains

Washington Irving · 1841 · Scanned text

85,544 words · about 5 h 59 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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Licence: PDM · British Library Digitised Books dataset db14 (doi 10.21250/db14) marks the OCR texts CC Public Domain Mark 1.0 (c. 1510-c. 1900 publications); text+metadata JSONL release doi 10.23636/r7w6-zy15 is CC0 1.0. Public Domain Mark is a status label, not a new copyright licence. · Digitised by the British Library (with Microsoft). Text: British Library Digitised Books, CC Public Domain Mark 1.0.

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About this book

Author
Washington Irving
Language
English
Published
1841
Length
85,544 words · about 5 h 59 min
Sections
63 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (63)
  1. Chapter I. Fagg under 1 min
  2. Chapter II under 1 min
  3. Chapter III under 1 min
  4. Chapter IV about 1 min
  5. Chapter V under 1 min
  6. Chapter VI under 1 min
  7. Chapter VII under 1 min
  8. Chapter VIII under 1 min
  9. Chapter IX under 1 min
  10. Chapter X under 1 min
  11. Chapter XI under 1 min
  12. Chapter XII under 1 min
  13. Chapter XIII under 1 min
  14. Chapter XIV under 1 min
  15. Chapter XV under 1 min
  16. Chapter XVI under 1 min
  17. Chapter XVII under 1 min
  18. Chapter XVIII under 1 min
  19. Chapter XIX under 1 min
  20. Chapter XX under 1 min
  21. Chapter XXI under 1 min
  22. Chapter XXII under 1 min
  23. Chapter XXIII about 1 min
  24. Chapter XXIV under 1 min
  25. Chapter XXV under 1 min
  26. Chapter XXVI under 1 min
  27. Chapter XXVII under 1 min
  28. Chapter XXVIII under 1 min
  29. Chapter XXIX under 1 min
  30. Chapter XXX under 1 min
  31. Chapter XXXI under 1 min
  32. Appendix under 1 min
  33. Chapter I about 10 min
  34. Chapter II about 9 min
  35. Chapter III about 9 min
  36. Chapter IV about 16 min
  37. Chapter V about 7 min
  38. Chapter VI about 10 min
  39. Chapter VII about 16 min
  40. Chapter VIII about 10 min
  41. Chapter IX about 7 min
  42. Chapter X about 11 min
  43. Chapter XI about 15 min
  44. Chapter XII about 6 min
  45. Chapter XIII about 11 min
  46. Chapter XIV about 19 min
  47. Chapter XV about 11 min
  48. Chapter XVI about 11 min
  49. Chapter XVII about 13 min
  50. Chapter XVIII about 9 min
  51. Chapter XIX about 12 min
  52. Chapter XX about 11 min
  53. Chapter XXI about 6 min
  54. Chapter XXII about 10 min
  55. Chapter XXIII about 16 min
  56. Chapter XXIV about 5 min
  57. Chapter XXV about 3 min
  58. Chapter XXVI about 5 min
  59. Chapter XXVII about 12 min
  60. Chapter XXVIII about 10 min
  61. Chapter XXIX about 7 min
  62. Chapter XXX about 7 min
  63. Chapter XXXI about 44 min

Continue:

Chapter I. Fagg

A consultation whether to proceed by land or water — preparations for boat building — an exploring party — a party of trappers detached — two Snake visitors — their report concerning the river — confirmed by the exploring party — Mad river abandoned — arrival at Henry's fort — detachment of Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner to trap — Mr. Miller resolves to accompany them — their departure. .... 9

Chapter II

Scanty fare — a mendicant Snake — embarcation on Henry river — joy of the voyageurs — arrival at Snake river — rapids and breakers — beginning of misfortunes — Snake encampments — parley with a savage — a second disaster — loss of a boatman — the Caldron Linn. 17

Chapter III

Gloomy council — exploring parties — discouraging reports — disastrous experiment — detachments in quest of succor — caches, how made — return of one of the detachments — unsuccessful — further disappointments — the Devil's Scuttle Hole. 25

Chapter IV

Determination of the party to proceed on foot — dreary deserts between Snake river and the Columbia — distribution of effects preparatory to a march — division of the party — rugged march along the river — wild and broken scenery — Shoshonies — alarm of a Snake encampment — intercourse with the Snakes — horse dealing — value of a tin kettle — sufferings from thirst — a horse reclaimed — fortitude of an Indian woman — scarcity of food — dog's flesh a dainty — news of Mr. Crooks and his party — painful travelling among the mountains — snow storms — a dreary mountain prospect — a bivouack during a wintry night — return to the river bank CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter V

An unexpected meeting — navigation in a skin canoe — strange fears of suffering men — hardships of Mr. Crooks and his comrades — tidings of M'Lellan — a retrograde march — a willow raft — extreme suffering of some of the party — illness of Mr. Crooks — impatience of some of the men — necessity of leaving the laggards behind. 41

Chapter VI

Mr. Hunt overtakes the advanced party — Pierre Donon, and his skeleton horse — a Shoshonie camp — a justifiable outrage — feasting on horse flesh — Mr. Crooks brought to the camp — undertakes to relieve his men — the skin ferry boat — frenzy of Prevost — his melancholy fate — enfeebled state of John Day — Mr. Crooks again left behind — the party emerge from among the mountains — interview with Shoshonies — a guide procured to conduct the party across a mountain — ferriage across Snake river — reunion with Mr. Crooks's men — final departure from the river. 50

Chapter VII

Departure from Snake river — mountains to the north — wayworn travellers — an increase of the Dorion family — a camp of Shoshonies — a new-year festival among the Snakes — a wintry march through the mountains — a sunny prospect, and milder climate — Indian horse tracks — grassy valleys — a camp of Sciatogas — joy of the travellers — dangers of abundance — habits of the Sciatogas — fate of Carriere — the umatalla — arrival at the banks of the Columbia — tidings of the scattered members of the expedition — scenery on the Columbia — tidings of Astoria — arrival at the falls 58

Chapter VIII

The village of Wish-ram — roguery ofthe inhabitants — their habitations — tidings of Astoria — of the Tonquin massacre — thieves about the camp — a band of braggarts — embarcation — arrival at Astoria — a joyful reception — old comrades — adventures of Reed, M'Lellan, and M'Kenzie, among the Snake river mountains — rejoicing at Astoria. 70

Chapter IX

Scanty fare during the winter — a poor hunting ground — the return of the fishing season — the uthlecan or smelt — its qualities — vast shoals of it — sturgeon — Indian modes of taking it — the salmon — different species — nature of the country about the coast — forests and forest trees — a remarkable flowering vine — animals— birds— reptiles — climate west of the mountains — mddness of the temperature — soil of the coast and the interior. CONTENTS. V PAGE.

Chapter X

Natives in the neighborhood of Astoria — their persons and characteristics — causes of deformity — their dress — their contempt of beards — ornaments — armor and weapons — mode of flattening the head — extent of the custom — religious belief — the two great spirits of the air and of the fire — priests or medicine men — the rival idols — polygamy a cause of greatness — petty warfare — music, dancing, gambling — ■ thieving a virtue— keen traders — intrusive habits — abhorrence of drunkenness — anecdote of Comcomly. 84

Chapter XI

Spring arrangements at Astoria — various expeditions set out — the Long Narrows — pilfering Indians — thievish tribe at Wish-ram — portage at the falls — portage by moonlight — an attack, a rout, and a robbery — Indian cure for cowardice — a parley and compromise — the despatch party turn back-— meet Crooks and John Day- — their sufferings — Indian perfidy — arrival at Astoria. .... 93

Chapter XII

Comprehensive views — to supply the Russian fur establishment — an agent sent to Russia — project of an annual ship — the Eeaver fitted out — her equipment and crew — instructions to the captain — the Sandwich islands — rumors of the fate of the Tonquin — precautions on reaching the mouth of the Columbia. 105

Chapter XIII

Active operations at Astoria — various expeditions fitted out — Robert Stuart and a party destined for New York — singular conduct of John Day — his fate — piratical pass and hazardous portage — rattlesnakes — their abhorrence of tobacco — arrival among the Wallah- Wallahs — purchase of horses — departure of Stuart and his band for the mountains. 110

Chapter XIV

Route of Mr. Stuart — dreary wilds — thirsty travelling — a grove and streamlet — the Blue mountains — a fertile plain with rivulets — sulphur spring — route along Snake river — rumors of white men — the Snake and his horse — a Snake guide — a midnight decampmentunexpected meeting with old comrades — story of trappers' hardships — Salmon falls — a great fishery — mode of spearing salmon — arrival at the Caldron Linn — state of the caches — new resolution of the three Kentucky trappers 119

Chapter XV

The Snake river deserts — scanty fare — bewildered travellers — prowling Indians — a giant Crow chief— a bully rebuked — Indian signals — 1* VI CONTENTS. PAGB 133 142 smoke on the mountains— Mad river— an alarm— an Indian foray— a scamper— a rude Indian joke— a sharp-shooter balked of his shot.

Chapter XVI

Travellers unhorsed — pedestrian preparations — prying spies— bonfire of baggage — a march on foot — rafting a river — the wounded elk — Indian trails— wilful conduct of Mr. M'Lellan— grand prospect from a mountain — distant craters of volcanoes — illness of Mr. Crooks. .

Chapter XVII

Ben Jones and a grizzly bear — rocky heights — mountain torrents — traces of M'Lellan — volcanic remains — mineral earths — peculiar clay for pottery— dismal plight of M'Lellan — starvation— shocking proposition of a desperate man — a broken down bull — a ravenous meal — Indian graves — hospitable Snakes — a forlorn alliance. . . 151

Chapter XVIII

Spanish river scenery — trail of Crow Indians — a snow storm — a rousin" fire and a buffalo feast — a plain of salt — climbing a mountain — volcanic summit — extinguished crater — marine shells — encampment on a prairie — successful hunting — good cheer — romantic scenery — rocky defile — foaming rapids — the fiery narrows 161

Chapter XIX

Wintry storms — a halt and council — cantonment for the winter — fine huntin» country — game of the mountains and plains — successful hunting — Mr. Crooks and a grizzly bear — the wigwam — bighorn and blacktails — beef and venison — good quarters and good cheer — an alarm — an intrusion — unwelcome guests — desolation of the larder — gormandizing exploits of hungry savages — good quarters abandoned. . . 168

Chapter XX

Rough wintry travelling — hills and plains — snow and ice — disappearance of game — a vast dreary plain — a second halt for the winter — another wigwam — new-year's feast — buffalo humps, tongues, and marrow bones — return of spring — launch of canoes — bad navigation — pedestrian march— vast prairies — deserted camps— Pawnee squaws — an Otto Indian — news of war — voyage down the Platte and the Missouri — reception at Fort Osage — arrival at St. Louis. . 177

Chapter XXI

Agreement between Mr. Astor and the Russian Fur Company — war between the United States and Great Britain — instructions to Captain Sowle of the Beaver — fitting out of the Lark — news of the arrival of Mr. Stuart CONTENTS. VII PAGE

Chapter XXII

Banks of the Wallah-Wallah — departure of David Stuart for tlie Oakinagan — Mr. Clarke's route up Lewis river — Chipunnish, or Pierced-nose Indians — their character, appearance, and habits — thievish habits — laying up of the boats — post at Pointed Heart and Spokan rivers — M'Kenzie, his route up tlie Camoenum — bands of travelling Indians — expedition of Reed to the caches — adventures of wandering voyageurs and trappers. 1 90

Chapter XXIII

Departure of Mr. Hunt in the Beaver — precautions at the factory — detachment to the Wollamut — gloomy apprehensions — arrival of M'Kenzie — affairs at the Shahaptan — news of war — dismay of M'Dougal — determination to abandon Astoria — departure of M'Kenzie for the interior — adventure at the rapids — visit to the ruffians of Wish-ram — a perilous situation — meeting with M'Tavish and his party — arrival at the Shahaptan — plundered caches — determination of the wintering partners not to leave the country — arrival of Clarke among the Nez Percys — the affair of the silver goblet — hanging of an Indian — arrival of tne wintering partners at Astoria. 198

Chapter XXIV

The partners displeased with M'Dougal — equivocal conduct of that gentleman — partners agree to abandon Astoria — sale of goods to M'Tavish — arrangements for the year — manifesto signed by the partners — departure of M'Tavish for the interior. . . .211

Chapter XXV

Anxieties of Mr. Astor — memorial of the North-west Company — tidings of a British naval expedition against Astoria — Mr. Astor applies to government for protection — the frigate Adams ordered to be fitted out — bright news from Astoria — sunshine suddenly overclouded. 216

Chapter XXVI

Affairs of state at Astoria — M'Dougal proposes for the hand of an Indian princess — matrimonial embassy to Comcomly — matrimonial notions among the Chinooks— settlements and pin money — the bringing home of tlie bride — a managing father-in-law — arrival of Mr. Hunt at Astoria 219

Chapter XXVII

Voyage ofthe Beaver to New Archangel — a Russian governor — roystering rule — the tyranny of the table — hard drinking bargains — CONTENTS. nan. voyage to Kamschatka — seal-catching establishment at St. Paul's — storms at sea — Mr. Hunt left at the Sandwich islands — transactions of the Beaver at Canton — return of Mr. Hunt to Astoria. . . 223

Chapter XXVIII

Arrangements among the partners — Mr. Hunt sails in the Albatross — arrives at the Marquesas — news ofthe frigate Phoebe — Mr. Hunt proceeds to the Sandwich islands — voyage of the Lark — her shipwreck — transactions with the natives of the Sandwich islands — conduct of Tamaahmaah 232

Chapter XXIX

Arrival of M'Tavish at Astoria — conduct of his followers — negotiations of M'Dougal and M'Tavish — bargain for the transfer of Astoria — doubts entertained of the loyalty of M'Dougal. . . . 240

Chapter XXX

Arrival of a strange sail — agitation at Astoria — warlike offer of Comcomlv — Astoria taken possession of by the British — indignation of Comcomly at the conduct of his son-in-law. .... 246

Chapter XXXI

Arrival of the brig Pedlar at Astoria — breaking up of the establishment — departure of several of the company' — tragical story told by the squaw of Pierre Dorion — fate of Reed and his companionsattempts of Mr. Astor to renew his enterprise — disappointment — concluding observations and reflections. ..... 252

Appendix

. Draught of a petition to Congress, sent by Mr. Astor in 1812. . . 265 Letter from Mr. Gallatin to Mr. Astor 267 Notices of the present state of the Fur Trade, chiefly extracted from an article published in Silliman's Journal for January, 1834. . 269 Height of the Rocky Mountains. 274 Suggestions with respect to the Indian tribes, and the protection of our Trade. ASTORIA

Chapter I

A CONSULTATION WHETHER TO PROCEED BY LAND OR WATER PREPARA TIONS FOR BOAT BUILDING AN EXPLORING PARTY A PARTY OF TRAP- PERS DETACHED TWO SNAKE VISITORS THEIR REPORT CONCERNING THS RIVER CONFIRMED BY THE EXPLORING PARTY MaD RIVER ABANDONEI arrival at henry's fort detachment of robinson, hobacs and Rezner to trap — Mr. Miller resolves to accompany them — their departure. On the banks of Mad river Mr. Hunt held a consultation with the other partners as to their future movements. The wild and impetuous current of the river rendered him doubtful whether it might not abound with impediments lower down, sufficient to render the navigation of it slow and perilous, if not impracticable. The hunters who had acted as guides, knew nothing of the character of the river below ; what rocks, and shods, and rapids might obstruct it, or through what mountains and deserts it might pass.

Should they then abandon their horses, cast themselves loose in fragile barks upon this wild, doubtful, and unknown river ; or should they continue their more toilsome and tedious, but perhaps more certain wayfaring by land ? The vote, as might have been expected, was almost unani mous for embarcation ; for when men are in difficulties every PREPARATIONS FOR BOAT BUILDINp. ciiange seems to be for the better. The difficulty now was to find timber of sufficient size for the construction of canoes, the trees in these high mountain regions being chiefly a scrubbed growth of pines and cedars, aspens, haws and service berries, and a small kind ol cotton tree with a leaf resembling that of the willow. There was a species of large fir, but so full of knots as to endanger the axe in hewing it. After searching for some time, a growth of timber, of sufficient size, was found lower down the river, whereupon the encampment was moved to the vicinity.

The men were now set to work to fell trees, and the mountains echoed to the unwonted sound of their axes. While preparations were thus going on for a voyage down the river, Mr. Hunt, who still entertained doubts of its practicability, despatched an exploring party, consisting of John Reed, the ;lerk, John Day the hunter, and Pierre Dorion the interpreter, with orders to proceed several days march along the stream, and notice its course and character. After their departure, Mr. Hunt turned his thoughts to another object of importance. He had now arrived at the head waters of the Columbia, which were among the main points embraced by the enterprize of Mr. Astor. These upper streams were reputed to abound in beaver, and had as yet been unmolested by the white trapper. The numerous signs of beaver met with during the recent search for timber, gave evidence that the neighborhood was a good " trapping ground."

Here then it was proper to begin to cast loose those leashes of hardy trappers, that are detached from trading parties, in the very heart of the wilderness. The men detached in the present instance were Alexander Carson, Louis St. Michel, Pierre Detaye, and Pierre Delaunay. Trappers generally go in pairs, that they may assist, protect and comfort each other TRAPPERS DETACHED. in their lonely and perilous occupations. Thus Carson and St. Michel formed one couple, and Detaye and Delaunay another. They were fitted out with traps, arms, ammunition. horses and every other requisite, and were to trap upon the upper part ol Mad river, and upon the neighboring streams of the mountains. This would probably occupy them for some months ; and, when they should have collected a sufficient quantity of peltries, they wrre to pack them upon their horses and make the best of their way to the mouth of Co lumbia river, or to any intermediate post which might be established by the company.

They took leave of their com rades and started off on their several courses with stout hearts, and cheerful countenances ; though these lonely cruisings into a wild and hostile wilderness seem to the uninitiated equiva lent to being cast adrift in the ship's yawl in the midst of the ocean. Of the perils that attend the lonely trapper, the reader will have sufficient proof, when he comes, in the after part of this work, to learn the hard fortunes of these poor fellows in the course of their wild peregrinations. The trappers had not long departed, when two Snake Indians wandered into the camp. When they perceived that the strangers were fabricating canoes, they shook their heads and gave them to understand that the river was not navigable. Their information, however, was scoffed at by some of the party, who were obstinately bent on embarcation, but was confirmed by the exploring party who returned after several days absence.

They had kept along the river with great dif ficulty for two days, and found it a narrow, crooked, turbulent stream, confined in a rocky channel, with many rapids, and occasionally overhung with precipices. From the summit of one of these they had caught a bird's eye view of its MAD RIVER ABANDONED. boisterous career, for a great distance, through the heart of the mountain, with impending rocks and cliffs. Satisfied, from this view, that it was useless to follow its course either by land or water, they had given up all further investigation. These concurring reports determined Mr. Hui.t to abandon Mad river, and seek some more navigable stream. This determination was concurred in by all his associates excepting Mr. Miller, who had become impatient of the fatigue of land travel, and was for immediate embarcation at all hazards.

This gentleman had been in a gloomy and irritated state of mind for some time past, being troubled with a bodily malady that rendered travelling on horseback extremely irksome to him, and being, moreover, discontented with having a smaller share in the expedition than his comrades. His unreasonable objections to a further march by land were overruled, and the party prepared to decamp. Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner, the three hunters who had hitherto served as guides among the mountains, now stepped forward, and advised Mr. Hunt to make for the post estab lished during the preceding year by Mr. Henry, of the Missouri Fur Company. They had been with Mr. Henry, and, as far as they could judge by the neighboring landmarks, his post could not be very far off. They presumed there could be but one intervening ridge of mountains, which might be passed without any great difficulty.

Henry's post, or fort, was on an upper branch of the Columbia, down which they made no doubt it would be easy to navigate in canoes. The two Snake Indians being questioned in the matter, showed a perfect knowledge of the situation of the post, and offered, with great alacrity, to guide them to the place. Their offer was accepted, greatly to the displeasure of Mr. Miller, HENRY'S POST. 13 who seemed obstinately bent upon braving the perils of Mad river. The weather for a few days past had been stormy ; with rain and sleet. The Rocky mountains are subject to tem pestuous winds from the west ; these, sometimes, come in flaws or currents, malting a path through the forests many yards in width, and whirling off trunks and branches to a great distance. The present storm subsided on the third of October, leaving all the surrounding heights covered with snow ; for, while rain had fallen in the valley, it had snowed on the hill tops.

On the 4th, they broke up their encampment, and crossed the river, the water coming up to the girths of their horses. After travelling four miles, they encamped at the foot of tho mountain, the last, as they hoped, which they should have to traverse. Four days more took them across it, and ovet several plains, watered by beautiful little streams, tributaries of Mad river. Near one of their encampments there was a hot spring continually emitting a cloud of vapor. These elevated plains, which give a peculiar character to the mountains, are frequented by large gangs of antelopes, fleet as the wind. On the evening of the 8th October, after a cold wintry day, with gusts of westerly wind and flurries of snow, they arrived at the sought for post of Mr. Henry. Here he had fixed him self, after being compelled by the hostilities of the Blackfeet, to abandon the upper waters of the Missouri.

The post, how ever, was deserted, for Mr. Henry had left it in the course of the preceding spring, and, as it afterwards appeared, had fallei in with Mr. Lisa, at the Arickara village on the Missouri, sometime after the separation of Mr. Hunt and his party. VOL. II. GUARDIAN SNAKES. The weary travellers gladly took possession of the deserted log huts which had formed the post, and which stood on the bank of a stream upwards of a hundred yards wide, on which they intended to embark. There being plenty of suitable timber in the neighborhood, Mr. Hunt immediately proceeded to construct canoes. As he would have to leave his horses and their accoutrements here, he determined to make this a trading post, where the trappers and hunters, to be distributed about the country, might repair ; and where the traders might touch on their way through the mountains to and from the establishment at the mouth of the Columbia.

He informed the two Snake Indians of this determination, and engaged them to remain in that neighborhood and take care of the horses until the white men should return, promising them ample rewards for their fidelity. It may seem a desperate chance to trust to the faith and honesty of two such vagabonds ; but, as the horses would have, at all events, to be abandoned, and would otherwise become the property of the first vagrant horde that should encounter them, it was one chance in favor of their being regained. At this place another detachment of hunters prepared to separate from the party for the purpose of trapping beaver. Three of these had already been in this neighborhood, being the veteran Robinson and his companions, Hoback and Rezner, who had accompanied Mr. Henry across the mountains, and who had been picked up by Mr. Hunt on the Missouri, on their way home to Kentucky.

According to agreement they were fitted out with horses, traps, ammunition, and every thing requi site for their undertaking, and were to bring in all the peltries they should collect, either to this trading post, or to the estab lishment at the mouth of Columbia river. Another hunter, of the name of Cass, was associated with them in their enter- SINGULAR RESOLUTION OF MR. MILLER. 15 prise. It is in this way that small knots of trappers and hunters are distributed about the wilderness by the fur com panies, and like cranes and bitterns, haunt its solitary streams. Robinson the Kentuckian, the veteran of the " bloody ground," who, as has already been noted, had been scalped by the Indians in his younger days, was the leader of this little band. When they were about to depart, Mr. Miller called the partners together, and threw up his share in the company, declaring his intention of joining the party of trappers.

This resolution struck every one with astonishment, Mr. Miller being a man of education and of cultivated habits, and little fitted for the rude life of a hunter. Beside, the pre carious and slender profits arising from such a life were beneath the prospects of one who held a share in the general enterprise. Mr. Hunt was especially concerned and mortified at his determination, as it was through his advice and influence he had entered into the concern. He endeavored, therefore, to dissuade him from this sudden resolution ; representing its rashness, and the hardships and perils to which it would expose him. He earnestly advised him, however he might feel dissatisfied with the enterprise, still to continue on in company until they should reach the mouth of Columbia river. There they would meet the expedition that was to come by sea ; when, should he still feel disposed to relinquish the undertaking, Mr. Hunt pledged himself to furnish him a passage home in one of the vessels belonging to the company.

To all this, Miller replied abruptly, that it was useless to argue with him, as his mind was made up. They might fur nish him, or not, as they pleased, with the necessary supplies, but he was determined to part company here, and set off with the trappers. So saying, he flung out of their presence with out vouchsafing any further conversation. THE SNAKE GUIDES. Much as this wayward conduct gave them anxiety, the parl ners saw it was in vain to remonstrate. Every attention was paid to fit him out for his headstrong undertaking. He was provided with four horses, and all the articles he required. The two Snakes undertook to conduct him and his companions to an encampment of their tribe, lower down among the mountains, from whom they would receive information as to the best trapping grounds. After thus guiding them, the Snakes were to return to Fort Henry, as the new trading post was called, and take charge of the horses which the party would leave there, of which, after all the hunters were supplied, there remained seventy-seven.

These matters being all arranged, Mr. Miller set out with his companions, under guidance of the two Snakes, on the 10th of October ; and much did it grieve the friends of that gentleman to see him thus wantonly casting himself loose upon savage life. How he and his comrades fared in the wilderness, and how the Snakes acquitted them selves of their trust, respecting the horses, will hereafter appear in the course of these rambling anecdotes. A MENDICANT SNAKE.

Chapter II

Scanty fare — a mendicant Snake — embarcation on Henry river — joy of the voyageurs arrival at snake river rapids and breakers beginning of misfortunes snake encampments parley with a savage a second disaster loss of a boatman the Caldron Linn. While the canoes were in preparation, the hunters ranged about the neighborhood, but with little success. Tracks of buffaloes were to be seen in all directions, but none of a fresh date. There were some elk, but extremely wild ; two only were killed. Antelopes were likewise seen, but too shy and fleet to be approached. A few beavers were taken every night, and salmon trout of a small size, so that the camp had princi pally to subsist upon dried buffalo meat. On the 14th, a poor, half-naked Snake Indian, one of that forlorn caste called the Shuckers, or diggers, made his appearance at the camp.

He came from some lurking place among the rocks and cliffs, and presented a picture of that famishing wretchedness to which these lonely fugitives among the mountains are sometimes reduced. Having received wherewithal to allay his hunger, he disappeared, but in the course of a day or two returned to the camp bringing with him his son, a miserable boy, still more naked and forlorn than himself. Food was given to both ; they skulked about the camp like hungry hounds, seeking what they might devour, and having 2* SNAKE RIVER. gathered up the feet and entrails of some beavers that were lying about, slunk off with them to their den among the rocks. By the 18th of October, fifteen canoes were completed, and on the following day the party embarked with their effects ; leaving their horses grazing about the banks, and trusting to the honesty of the two Snakes, and some special turn of good luck for their future recovery.

The current bore them along at a rapid rate ; the light spirits of the Canadian voyageurs, which had occasionally flagged upon land, rose to their accustomed buoyancy on finding themselves again upon the water. They wielded their paddles with their wonted dexterity, and for the first time made the mountains echo with their favorite boat songs. In the course of the day the little squadron arrived at the confluence of Henry and Mad rivers, which, thus united, swelled into a beautiful stream of a light pea-green color, navigable for boats of any size, and which, from the place of junction, took the name of Snake river, a stream doomed to be the scene of much disaster to the travellers. The banks were here and there fringed with willow thickets and small cotton-wood trees. The weather was cold, and it snowed all day, and great flocks of ducks and geese, sporting in the water or streaming through the air, gave token that winter was at hand ; yet the hearts of the travellers were light, and, as they glided down the little river, they flattered themselves with the hope of soon reaching the Columbia.

After making thirty miles in a southerly direction, they encamped for the night in a neighborhood which required some little vigilance, as there were recent traces of grizzly bears among the thickets. On the following day the river increased in width and beauty ; flowing parallel to a range of mountains on the left, which at times were finely reflected in its light green waters THE BEGINNING OF TROUBLES. 19 The three snowy summits of the Pilot Knobs or Tetons, were still seen towering in the distance. After pursuing a swift but placid course for twenty miles, the current began to foam and brawl, and assume the wild and broken character common to the streams west of the Rocky mountains. In fact the rivers which flow from those mountains to the Pacific, are essentially different from those which traverse the great prairies on their eastern declivities.

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