Greece pictorial, descriptive & historical ... With ... a history of the characteristics of Greek Art, by G. Scharf ... New edition, revised, with notices of recent discoveries, by H. F. Tozer

Front matter

G K E E C E PICTOBIAL, DESCRIPTIVE, & HISTORICAL - ■ fl . i j ra ra p "i OF 7 7 £g> 'v I . .7, , 1 ! Cl 'J 7 .i 7 7 . BE-' «' 17 I As-! _ \\ I 7 s77 77' 7 I.ORD BISHOP OF 'HIHTCOZ A NÆ,W EDIT Uli-P*. I , ( ) \ .'.'■". F.KT GREECE PICTOKIAL, DESCRIPTIVE, & HISTORICAL BY CHRISTOPHER WORDSWORTH, D.D. LORD BISHOP OF LINCOLN WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE SCENERY, ARCHITECTURE, COSTUME, AND FINE ARTS OF THAT COUNTRY AND A HISTOEY OF THE CHAEACTEEISTICS OF GEEEK AET BY GEORGE SCHARF, F.S.A. DIRECTOR, KEEPER, AND SECRETARY OF THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY A NEW EDITION REVISED, AVITH NOTICES OF RECENT DISCOVERIES, By H. F. TO ZEE, M.A. FELLOW AND TUTOR OF EXETER COLLEGE, OXFORD AUTHOR OF THE "HIGHLANDS OF TURKEY," "LECTURES ON THE GEOGRAPHY OF GREECE." LONDON JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET 9Ea tf-je J^igfjt Pjanouraik GEORGE EARL OF ABERDEEN, K.T., M.A., F.R.S., etc. etc.

PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES ; CHANCELLOR OF KING'S COLLEGE, ABERDEEN ONE OF THE GOVERNORS OF HARROW .SCHOOL TO WHOSE EXAMPLE AND ENCOURAGEMENT the present age is indebted for much of the light which has been thrown upon THE ARTS, ANTIQUITIES, AND GEOGRAPHY OF GREECE, Œfjts Waxk, WRITTEN WITH A HOPE OF CHERISHING THE LOVE FOR THEM IN THE SCHOOL OF WHICH HE IS A GOVERNOR, IS, WITH FEELINGS OF PRIVATE GRATITUDE AND PUBLIC RESPECT, INSCRIBED. EDITOR'S

Preface

. As many years have now elapsed since the last edition of Dr. Wordsworth's Greece: Pictorial, Descriptive, and Historical was exhausted, the present Editor has undertaken, at the request of the Publishers, to prepare a new edition for the press. In so doing he has endeavoured to correct the inaccuracies which had found their way into former editions — though these were few and slight — and to bring the work up to the level of modern geographical research. With this view he has introduced short notices of the important discoveries and excavations that have been made of late years at Mycenæ, Olympia, Dodona, and elsewhere ; but in doing this he has endeavoured not to make these an excrescence on the work, nor to exceed the limits which the Author has elsewhere prescribed to himself in such matters, always remembering that the original object of the book was not so much scientific research as to give a general description of the country.

And throughout he has abstained from interfering both with the statements made and the opinions expressed, whether on topographical or other subjects, in the original work, wherever these appeared still tenable. His reason for this, independently of the respect which is always due from an editor to his author, is to be found in the position which the book has assumed as an authority, with regard both to places which Dr. Wordsworth explored, and to views on classical subjects which he EDITOR'S

PREFACE.

. VIII advocated. A striking instance of the latter point is to be found in his remarks on the site of Dodona, whicli he, almost alone among topographers, assigned to the locality, in which, within a few years from the present time, that place has been discovered by excavation. There are also many points of Greek, especiaUy of Athenian, topography and archæology which must be regarded as still unsettled ; and until further data exist for determining them, it is reasonable, in a book like the present, to adhere to opinions already expressed. The Greek names of the Hellenic divinities, however, have usually been substituted for the Roman ones, which appeared in the earlier editions, the distinction between the two being now sufficiently recognised. The admirable history of the Characteristics of Greek Art by Mr. George Scharf, which is prefixed to the work, has had the advantage of being revised by that writer himself.

In conclusion, the Editor expresses the hope that others may derive the same enjoyment and benefit from Dr. Wordsworth's book whicli he himself has done from his boyhood onward. The recollection of the numerous agreeable impressions whicli he received from it in former days has made his work of revision a labour of love. Oxford, Juhj 29, 1882. THE EMPEROR TRAJAN MAKING HIS WILL.

PREFACE.

. " The Emperor Hadrian possessed a magnificent Villa at Tivoli, of which the ruins still remain. In it he endeavoured to perpetuate his own Recollections of Greece. He there erected buildings, to which he gave the names Pcecile and Lyceum ; by their side he planted the Grove of an Academy, and he carried the stream of an ideal Peneus through the pleasant Vale of an imitative Tempe. " The Traveller in Greece constructs in his own mind such a villa as this. He furnishes it with the beautiful scenes which he once visited in that country ; he refreshes it with the clear waters and cool shades of a Tempe ; he decorates it with the fair porticoes of a Pœcile, a Lyceum, and an Academy. "But his recollections of Greece, like the buildings of Hadrian, are liable to fall into decay. The Author of the following pages has, MOUNT PARNASSUS.

PREFAC1 therefore, attempted to give a permanence to his own reminiscences by constructing a humbler Tivoli, in wliich he hopes that others may perhaps enjoy some share of that pleasure which was felt of old by the Greek Traveller in the Villa of Hadrian." OAST OF EPIRUS FROM THE SEA. WOEKS ILLUSTRATIVE OF GREEK -GEOGRAPHY. V* H ieing inconsistent with the plan of the present Work that reference should be made in it to any collateral authorities on the subjects mentioned in the text, the Author has deemed it expedient to prefix a general list of books vihich may be considered either as illustrative of its contents, or supplementary to them. Scylax, Periplus.— Se? Philological Museum, i. p. 245 ; Hudson's Geog. Græc. vol. i. Dicæarcbus, scholar of Aristotle, Status Græciæ.— Hudson, Geog. Græc. vol. ii.

Scymnus, Chius, Orbis Descripftio.— Hudson, Geog. Gr. vol. ii. Dionysius Periegetes.— Bernhardy, Geog. Gr. vol. i. Strabo of Amasia in Pontus, in the Augustan Age, books viii. ix. x. Pomponius Mela, book ii. cap. 3. Caius Plinius Secundus, book iv. cap. 1 to 13. Pausanias, Ten Books. Travelled in Greece in the time of the Antonines. Ptolemæus Pelusiotes. About a.d. 160. Cyriacus of Ancona. Travelled in Greece about 1430, principally with a view to collect ancient inscriptions. Martin Kraus, or Krusius, Professor at Tubingen. His Turco-Græcia, 1573. Sandys, Relation of a Journey in the Turkish Empire, 1674. Meursius, his geographical and antiquarian Treatises in Gronovii Antiquitates Græcæ. Babin, Relation de l'fitat Present de la Ville d'Athenes, 1674. Carrey's Drawings of the Parthenon, made about 1674, for the French Ambassador, the Marquis of Nointel, now in the Royal Library Paris ; copies in the British Museum.

Jacob Spon of Lyons, Voyage, &c, 1676. Lyon, 167S, 2 vols. 12mo. Guillet de la Guilleti£re, Athenes ancienne et moderne. Paris, 1675. An Apocryphal work. — See Quarterly Review, No. 127. Palmerii Græciæ Descriptio, 1673. "Wheler, Rev. Sir George, Journey into Greece. London, 1682, folio ; with an excellent Map for those times. WORKS ILLUSTRATIVE OF GREEK GEOGRAPHY. XII Mansert, Geographic di I Qriechen, 1822. Mi"LLKR, K. 0., Geechichte HeUentaoher Bttauns and lte, 1880-1824. Orthi mis. with Map "I Bœotia. The Dorians, with Maps of Northern Greece and ti„- Peloponnesus. Geographical Appendices to both works. .Vi'hu'ti.'.i, 1M7. Articles on Athena and Attica, In Brach and Griibi-r's BnoyclopSdle, Translated by Lockhart. Brief nach Athen, 16 88. Hvohes's (T. S.) Travels In Sicily, Albania, and Greece ; ■j toIs.

Mo. 1880 ; '-',1 edit - role. Svo. W"ADi>iN'.r,,\'s v,sit to Ok '■'■'■■ 18115. Kendriik, Ionian Islai,,ls, 1822. Goodisson, Ionian Islands, 1822. St. Vincent, lies loniennes, avec on nouvel atlas, 1822, Beombtko, Voyages et Recherches dans la Gr 1826. ,\ II, Has, 1826-1827, 2 vols.; contains Attica, Hegaris, Bœotia, Phocis, Doris, Locris, Ætolia, Acarnania. Wachsmith, Hellenische Alterthumskunde, -t vols. Halle, 1826. Bketch of Greek Geography, vol. i. pp. 1-20. Cramer's Geographical Rntl Historical Description of Ancient Greece, 3 vols. Svo. Oxford, 1828. CoLoam Leake on the Demi of Attica, in Transactions Of Boyal Society of Literature, 1829. Travels in the Morea, :i vols. Svo. Lond. ls:;0. Travels in Northern Greece, 4 vols. Svo. 1885. The Author of Hit following pitges cannot mention A«e work! of CoU Leake without expressing his obligations to them.

Coronelli, Description Geographique de la Moree. Venisc, 1688. Meletics, Bishop of Arta and NaupOCtuB, 16S2. His Geography, first published ITl'S. Venice, folio. Tocrnefort, Voyage du Levant, 1718, 2 vols. Bro. Foirmont, travelled in 1729. His letters (of very doubtful faith).- Voyage, Mem. de l'Acadeim, des Inscriptions, t. vii. p. 857. Guy's Voyage Litteraire de la Grec. 8 rala. 1771. Stuart and Revett, travelled for the Bociety ,,f Dilettanti, 17.01.— Tlie Antiquities of Athens, by Jas. Stuart and Nicholas Revett, Painters and Architects, vol. i. 1762, vol. ii. 17s7, vol. iii. 17'.'4, vol iv. 1816. — i — , n, -w edition, with many additions, 4 vols. 1825. Chandler's Travels in Grece. Oxf. 177i',.— French, with notes, by Barbie du Bocage. Pans, lso,',, 8 vols. - Chandler, Revett, and Pare, sent by the Society of Dilettanti, 1764.

Inscriptiones Antiqua-. oxon. 1771. Hamilton'.- Bemarks on several parts of Turkey, 1809. The Unedited Antiquities "f Attica. By the Bociety of Dilettanti. London, i II Barthelemi, Voyage du .jeune Anacharsis en Grece, 7 vols. Svo. 1700. c'1101-.ki'i..Goufher, Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece, torn. i. sol. 17.S2, torn. ii. 1809, torn. iii. 1899. Sibthorp and Hawkins, travelled in 1785 and 1794. Their Journal in \Va!|„,],-'s Memoirs. Lond. L820. I'm \ ri, and Fai ciierot, travelled in Attica, ic. 17S0. Tlieir Papers in the Paris Library. Oberlin, Orbis Antiqui Monumentis suis illustrati prima' line,,'. Argent, 17'.'0. Lord Elgin in Gre , 17'.'7. Elgin Marbles transported to England, 1812. Memorandum on the Earl of Elgin's Pursuits in Greece, Gordon's History of the Greek Revolution, 1832. Thiersch, F., Ætat Actuel de la Gr6ce, 2 vols. Bvo.

Leipz. L688. Dodwell'h Pelasgic Remains in Greece and Italy, sol. 1834. Purder's Sailing Directory. London, 1834. Charts ofthe Coast of Greece, published by the Admiralty, sold at No. 53 Fleet Street, London. Von Maurer, Das Grieehische Volk, 2 vols. Heidelberg, 1835. Thirlwall's Greece; Geographical' Outline, pp. 1-84 of vol. i. 1835. Pittakys' Ancienne Ath6nes, 8vo. Athfcnes, 1835.. Voyage de la Commission Scientitique de Morte. Paris, 1836. Wordsworth's Athens and Attica, with Maps, &c. 2d Edit. 1837. Forchhammer, P. G., Hellenika. Berlin, 1837. Ross, L. Das Pentelicon bei Athen und seine Marmor - briiche : Kunstblatt, 1837, Nos. ii.-iv. Other numbers contain papers on subjects connected with Greek topography and antiquities. Finlay's Remarks on the Topography of the Oropiaand Diacria. Athens, 1838. on the Battle of Marathon and position of Aphidnæ, <Sic. in Transactions of Royal Society of Literature, vol. iii.

Leake, Col., Peloponncsiaca, Supplement to Travels in the Morea. Murray, Handbook for Malta, Ionian Islands, and the Ea.st. Rangabe, A. R., Antiquites Helleniques. Athenes, 1842. Bowen, G. F., M. A., President of the Ionian University : "Ithaca." 1850. Descriptive Catalogue of Sketches of Greek Scenery. By W. Linton, Esq., R.A. For Private Circulation. 1847. Sketches in Greece and Turkey. 1833. 1815. Lcsieri's Plans, drawn for Lord Elgin, 1800, and following years. Now in the British Museum. Dr. E. D. Clarke's Travels, 1810-24. 6 vols. 4to. Dodwell's Classical and Topographical Tour, 2 vols. 4to. London, 1819. si i: W. Cell's Ithaca, 4to. Ar^olis, 1S14, 4to. Itinerary of the Morea, Isl 7. Itinerary of Greece, 1SI9. , Ioj ohbl Lease's Researches in Greece, 1814. Topography of Athens, 1821. Translated into German by Reinacker, with notes by Mulier.

Halle, 1829. disputed Positions in the Topography of Athens, I-. "■ . Outlines of Greek Revolution, 1S26. Wilkins' Atheniensia, 1816. Pouqueville, Vovage dans la Grece. Paris, 1820. Barbie du Bocage, Carte de la Moree, 1814. Chateaubriand, Itineraire de Paris a Jerusalem. Paris, 1812. Hobhouse, Journey through Albania, ic. Lond. 1813, 4to. Holland's Travels in the Ionian Isles, Thessaly, Macedonia, 4c. Lond. 1815 ; 2d. Edit. 2 vols. 8vo. 1819. Walpole's Memoirs relating to European and Asiatic Turkey, containing Papers by the Earl of Aberdeen, Dr. Sibthorp, Mr. Hawkins, Col. Leake, Col. Squire, Mr. Cockerell, Mr. Wilkins, Mr. Raikes. Stanhope, Topography of Platæa, 1817. Olympia, 1824. Forbin, Voyage dans le Levant. Paris, 1819. Turner, Tout in the Levant, 1820. Gaultier, Positions Geographiques, in the "Connaissances de Temps," 1821, 1822, 1823.

WORKS ILLUSTRATIVE OF GREEK GEOGRAPHY. XIII To this original List of Works thc following may now be added :■ Curtius, E., Peloponnesos, 2 vols. Gotlia, 1S52. Attische Studien. Gottingen, 1862, etc. Curtius und Kaupert, Atlas von Athen. Berlin, 1S78. Clark, W. G., Peloponnesus. Lond. 1S5S. Hettner, Athens and the Peloponnese ; translated from the German. Edin. 1854. Murray, Handbook for Travellers in Greece. 5th Edit. Lond. 1882. Isambert, Gr6ce et Turquie d'Europe. 2d Edit. Par. 1S73. Smith, Dr. Wm., Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography. Lond. 1854-7. Kiepert, Atlas von Hellas. New Edit. Berl. 1S72. Schliemasn, Mycenae and Tiryns. Lond. 1S78. Exploration of the Bœotian Orchomenus ; in Journal of Hellenic Studies, vol. 2. Carapanos, Dodone et ses Ruines, 2 vols. Paris. 1878. Curtius, Adler, Hirschfeld, und Treu, Die Ausgrabungen zu Olympia.

Edinburgh Review for Jan. 1879, "The Discoveries at Olympia." Dyer, Ancient Athens. Lond. 1873. Bursian, Geographie von Grieehenland, 2 vols. Leipz. 1862-72. Wachsmuth, Die Stadt Athen im Alterthuni. Leipz. 1S74. Michaelis, Der Parthenon. Leipz. 1S71. Penrose, Principles of Athenian Architecture. Lond. 1851. Mure, Journal of a Tour in Greece, 2 vols. Lond. 1842. Tozer, Researches in the Highlands of Turkey, 2 vols. Lond. 1S69. Lectures on the Geography of Greece. Lond. 1S73. Smith and Grove, Biblical and Classical Atlas. Lond. 1874. 9BWLY EXCAVATED STREET OF TOMBS OS THE ROAD FROM AGORA OF ATHENS TO ELEUBIS. DEATH of socrate TABLE OF CONTENTS HISTORICAL OUTLINE OF GREEK ART.

State of the Arts in the time of Pausanias — Plan of developing the Subject— Importance of Dates and of Coins in ascertaining the different Eras of Art — Monumental Remains — Ancient Practice of hoarding Money— Tombs the Depositories of Works of Art —Early Vases — Primitive Origin of the Greeks — Cyclopean Architecture — Ancient Pottery and Vases — Early Bronze Figures — Painted Vases — Sciagraphy — Silhouettes — Objects of Early Worship — Representation of Form by Outline — Assyrian Head — Ancient Coins — Terra-cotta Figure found at Samos — Origin of Modelling — Early Workers in Bronze — Ancient Knowledge of Mechanics — Early Figures in Metal — Artists of Mythical Antiquity — State of the Arts in the Homeric Age — Working of Gold — Cyclopean Architecture of Mycenæ and Cadyanda — Gate of the Lions — Sculptures of Thebes, Nineveh, Egypt, and Asia Minor — Art of Casting in Metals — The Early Communications of Greece with Egypt — First Introduction of Coinage — Art of Tempering Metals — Origin of the Ionic and Doric Orders — Ancient Inscriptions — Early Adoption of the Arch — Structure of Temples and the peculiar Characteristics of the Doric and Ionic — Early Painted Vases — Sciagraphs — Greek Art under Pisistratus — Fountain of Callirrhoe — Earliest Use of Marble in Architecture — First Erection of Temples at Athens — Draperies of Greek Sculpture — Acroliths — Dedication of Statues — Vase Painting — Portrait Statues — Invention of Foreshortening — Early History of Bas-reliefs — Centaurs — State of Greek Art from the Battle of Marathon — Public Games conducive to the Arts — Coins of Athens — A Greek Warrior — Names of Artists engraved on Sculptures — Ancient Modes of representing Hair — State of the Arts from the Defeat of the Persians — Marbles of Ægina — Sculptured Heads — Vase Painting — Rebuilding of Athens — Temple and Sculptures of the Theseum — Progress of Painting and Sculpture — Onatas — Important Changes in Vase Painting — Polygnotus — Subjects painted by him — Architects of the Parthenon — Pericles, and his glorious Works at Athens — Commencement of the Parthenon — Temples and Sculptures at Athens — The Erechtheum — Sculptures of the Parthenon — Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithæ — Section of the Parthenon — Drapery of Phidias — State of Art from the Death of Pericles — Polycletus, Myron, and Alcamenes — The Phigaleian Marbles — Coinage of Athens — Greek Statuary — Celebrated Statues of Aphrodite — Corinthian Order — Niobe — The Temple of Apollo Sosianus — Pediment of the Temple of Athena at Ægina — State of Art from the Accession of Alexander — Art has reached its Culminating Point —Statues and Coins of Philip aud Alexander— Temple of Lysicrates, ami its Sculptures— Style of Drapery— Roman Period of Greek Art— Time of Hadrian— The Laocoon, Achilles at Scyros, Dirce tied to the Bull, and various subjects of Greco-Roman Art— The Age of Constantine, and the Degradation of Ancient Art ......

Pages 1 — 87 GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF GREECE.

Bronze Tablet of Aristagoras— Hecatæus— Sketch of the Geography of Continental Greece— First Station, Zygo, the ancient Lacmos, on Mount Pindus ; Panoramic View thence ; its Peculiarities ; the five Rivers which take their rise there — Virgil — Milton— Communication by these Rivers to every part of Greece — The Aous : Apollonia; Corinthian Colonies; Augustus; his Connection with Apollonia ; Actium — The Gulf of Ambracia — The Arachthus — Northern Frontier of Free Greece — Haliacmon — Macedonia — Berrlma — Thessalonica — St. Paul — Peneus — Olympus — Ossa —Tempi; — Mountain Boundaries to the Basin of Thessaly; Cambunian Hills; Pindus; Othrys — The History of Thessaly the Result of its Geography — Level surface of the Soil ; Fertility — Centaurs ; Cavalry; Thessaly the Theatre of Wars — Pharsalia, Scotussa, Cynoscephalæ — ACHELOUS ; why the Synonym for Water ; its course — Second Station, on Mount Tymphrestus, or Beluchi — Divergence of Mountains from this Point, as of Rivera from Zygo — Othrys to the East, Œta to the South-east, and the Agræan Hills to the West of the Pindus — The Pindus Chain continued in Parnassus, Helicon, Cithæron, Parnes, Brilessus, Pentelicus, Hymettus, Laureum, Sunium ; thence to the Cyclades, and to the Asiatic Coast — Last Station : Hymettos — View from Hymettus — Milton — Limit of Course of Mountains — Temple of Sunium— Lucian 's Coutemplantes — Geographical Sketch of the Peloponnesus — Station at Zakkouka on Mount Lyceum — Panoramic View — Mount Lycæum, Erymanthus, Cyllene, Mænalus, Parnon,— Mount Taygetus— Plainsof Elis — Olympia— Physical Form and Characteristics of the Peloponnesus — Arcadia : surrounded by a mural Circle of Mountains — Radii from this Circle to the Coast form the other provinces of the Peloponnesus — Peloponnesus an Amphitheatre, of which Arcadia is the Arena, its Mountain circle the Podium, the other Provinces the Cunei, their Mountain Divisions the Viæ, the Vale of the Alpheus the Vomitorium, Sky of Greece the Velarium— Political Results of Natural Causes— National Antipathies— Messenia and Laconia— No Centralisation— The Peloponnesus a fortress— Ach.ean League: its Origin; how far it was successful — Causes of its Dissolution — Greece united by Rome— Xo general Coinage— Coins of different Provinces of the Peloponnesus— Restlessness of its Inhabitants— The Arts of Peace and Commerce little cultivated— Pleasing Contrast offered by the Province of Elis— Armistice— Olympic Games —Mythological Traditions produced by Character of Soil— Emissaries— Mount Lycæum, Arcadia— Stymphalus— Worship of Heracles— Natural Origin of Greek Mythology— founded not on Laws but Powers— Origin of Greek Music; why derived from Arcadia; its influence on the Arcadian Character— Cynætha— The Pastoral Ideas of Virgil derived not so much from Italy as from Arcadia— Migratory and mercenary Character of Arcadians ; how produced— Sparta, how far unwalled ; Lycurgus ; its Mountains were its Walls— Laconia the Stadium of the

Peloponnesus- Picturesque Scenery of the Vale of the Eurotas— Scenes on Taygetus— Pallantium the Cradle of Rome— Antoninus Pius— Pheidippides and Pan, before the Battle of Marathon— View from the Citadel of Argos— Argolis : Erasmus, Lerna— Argos Amphilochicum a Colony from Argolis— National Connections and Sympathies, shown in an Identity of Names . .

Pages 89— 130 ATTICA.

Socrates and Ahibiades-Extent of Attica-Influence of Attica on Language, Literature, Arts and Religion-Causes of this Influence-Form and Site of Attica-Benetits incidentally arising 'from ite .De/^-Barrenness-Rocks, Mountains-then- Productions-Consequences ofthe.se Defects- Limits of Attica-Chains of Parnes and Ægaleos on West, of Pentelicus and Hymettus on Eastthe Long Walls of the Country — Order of our observations — Salamis : Site — Battle — View seen by Xerxes from his Silver-footed Throne on Mount Ægaleos — Digression to Eleusis — Mystic Procession to Eleusis— Sacred Way thither ; its present and former State— Sacred Ways of Rome and Athens contrasted — Characteristic of those two Cities respectively — Approach to Eleusis — Temple of Eleusis — Description of the Eleusinian Mysteries — Return to Ægaleos— Phyle ; its present aud former Condition — View seen by Thrasybulus from the fortress Walls of Phyle — Campaign of Thrasybulus against the Thirty Tyrants — View of Acharnæ — The Acharnians of Aristophanes — Return to Mount Parnes — Parnes the Barrier of Attica and Bœotia— Comparative View of Attica and Bœotia, physically and intellectually — " The Clouds " of Aristophanes — View of the Athenian Plain and Lycabettus — Decelea — Alcibiades — Agis — Decelea a Spartan Camp in Attica — "The Birds " of Aristophanes — Contrast between Decelea aud Aphidnæ — Theseus — History of Attica to the Age of Theseus — Cecrops — Strife of Athena and Poseidon — Explanation — Areopagus : Origin of — Meaning of Attic Traditions — Cranaus and Pedias the Parents of Atthis — Deucalion's Flood — Amphiction — Erichthouius — States of Society represented by them — Visits Of Demeter and Dionysus to Attica — Theseus — Pisistratus : his Homeric Apotheosis of Theseus — Theseus a Personification (made by themselves, with a Historic Basis) of the Athenian People — Ariadne — Life and Death of Theseus — Temple of Theseus — His Civil Polity — Panathenaic Festival — Theseus aud Pirithous : Meaning of their Friendship — Theseus and Heracles : their Rivalry ; how an expression of National Feeling — Why Theseus and his Son Hippolytus are made to pass their youth at Trœzen — Bœotia represented by Heracles ; Attica by Theseus — Illustration of this — View on the Route from Aphidnæ to Rhamnus — Two Temples at Rhanmus — Sacred Inclosure containing them — Description of the Temples — Architectural Terms applied to Ancient Temples — Plans — Larger Temple — Both the Temples were dedicated to Nemesis — Scenery of Rhamnus — Religion of Sacred Inclosures — Rhamnus to Marathon — Plain and Harbour of Marathon — Battle — The Battle illustrated by local Considerations — The different Advantages enjoyed by the Athenians at Marathon — Fresco Painting of the Battle — Tumulus at Marathon — Trophy of Miltiades — Different Treatment of the Battles of Marathon and Salamis — Why no Pictorial or Sculptural Record of Salamis as well as of Marathon — Poetical Compensation — Walk up Mount Pentelicus — View

of Marble Quarries — Character of the Marble — Reflections on the Quarries — Contrast of Rome and Athens in their respective Materials for Sculpture — Scenery of Cephisia — Villa of Herodes Atticus — Plato's Farm — Diogenes — Preservation of Ancient Names : Cephisia, Marousi, Heracle — Lycabettus — Hymettus — Produce of Hymettus compared with that of Pentelicus — Grottoes of the Nymphs and Graces on Hymettus — - Plato in this Cave — Port Raphte — Thoricus — Triangle formed by Thoricus, Anaphlystus, and Sunium — Mines of Laureum — History of Mines — Peculiar Properties of Athenian Coinage — Temple at Sunium Pages 131—186 ÆGINA.

Islakd of Ægiiia— Its Maritime Greatness attributable to its Harbours— Ruins of an Ancient Temple- Ancient Inscription— Ancient Tumulus— Site of Panhellenium— Volcanic Appearances of Ægiua— Mount Fendu— Mountain of Oros— Legend of Æacus, king of Ægina— Temple at Panhelleuium— Remains of Antiquity on the Pauhellenian Mount— Doric Inscriptions— Interior of the Island Pages 187—193 ATHENS.

Requisites for a Describer of Athens— Suggestions from a Sight of its Ruins— Contrast of the Spirit which produced its Buildings with their Material Elements — Permanence and Extension of the former — Advantages of the Modern over the Ancient Spectator of Athens — Map of Athens drawn by Demades for Philip— Physical Sketch of the Site of Athens— Its Harbours— Its Limits— Idea of Athens as it existed in Ancient Times on the Day of the Celebration of the Panathenaic Festival— The Course of that Procession followed— Ascent to the Acropolis— Propylæa described— Restoration of— Temple of Victory— Its Frieze— Doors of the Propylæa thrown open— First Sight of the Interior of Acropolis— The Acropolis was the Temple, the Fortress, the Museum, and the Treasury of Athens— Statues— Colossal Bronze Statue of Athena Promachus— The Parthenon — IU Frieze, Metopes, and Pediments— Shields on the Eastern Front— Its Architectural Mouldings painted— The Opisthodomus— The Eastern Division ofthe Temple— Panathenaic Frieze, Idea of— Erechtheum— Its Two Divisions— The Eastern consecrated to Athena Polias ; the Western to Pandrosus—Archi tectural Description of— History— The Four principal Sacred Objects contained in it— Subterranean Passage to the Grotto of Aglaurus— Use of the Aglaureum— Grotto of Pan— Temple of the Winds —Different Uses of the Temple— Districts of Athens North of the Acropolis— Diomeia— Cynosarges, Colyttus, Melite— Accuracy of Pausanias as a Topographer— Temple of Theseus— History and Ornaments of— Religious and Political Objects of the Temple— The Pnyx or Parliament of Athens —Its Site, Size, aud Features— Idea of an Athenian Assembly— Picture of an Orator addressing an Assembly in the Pnyx— Objects before his eyes— Influence of the Local Peculiarities of the Pnyx on Athenian Eloquence — Description of the Areopagus— The Areopagus, why associated with the Sanctuary of the Eumenides — The Agora, as it existed in Ancient Times — Its Principal Objects— View of the Agora from the Western Side of the Acropolis— Real Character of the Agora — Its Influences — Theatre— Its Site and Natural Scenery — Consequent Advantages enjoyed by the Athenian Dramatist and Spectator — Street of Tripods — Inscriptions on the Architraves — Choragic Monument of Lysicrates — Odeum of Pericles — Temple of Zeus Olympius — The Ilissus, Lyceum, Stadium, Callirrhoe— Mountains of Attica— Not mentioned by Athenian Tragedians — Attic Tragedy silent about Attica — Italian notices of Attica — Policy of Themistocles to isolate Athens — The Piræus — His designs prosecuted by Cimon and Pericles — Third Long Wall of Athens Pages 194—230 PHOCIS, LOCRIS, AND BŒOTIA.

River Spercheius — Lamia, Demosthenes, Lamian Wars — Trachis — Heracles and Deianeira — Trachiniæ of Sophocles — Trachinian Province and History of Heracles : his Apotheosis on Mount (Eta — Pilgrimage thither — Leonidas at Thermopylæ — Influence of Heracles on the Spartans at Thermopylæ — Defence of the Pass at different Periods — Alterations in the Coast — Thermopylæ survives only in Herodotus — Amphictyonic Council House — at Anthele — Why? — Reflections on this — Epicnemidian Locrians — Ajax Oileus — Talanta, Puntzomadi ; Names whence derived — Third Station, on Mount Parnassus — Panoramic Views — Doris; Elatea, Abae, Daulis; their early History — The Triple Way — Œdipus — Ancient Roads and Carriages — Delphi : Site ; Buildings — Ion of Euripides — Theatre, Temple, Oracle, Omphalus, Stadium— Castalia — Crissa — Cirrha ; Milton — Corycian Cave — Fourth Station: Helicon — Aganippe, Hippocrene — The Grove of the Muses — Helicon and Cithæron compared — Names of Objects on Helicon (Libethra, Pimplea, Pierides) ; Why of Macedonian Origin — Lebadea : Stream, Ravine, Sources — Oracular Cave of Trophonius — Lake Copais Chæronea, Battle of — Orchomenus — Treasury of Minyas — Dr. Schliemann's Excavations — Lebadea to Thebes : Coronea, Alalcomenæ, Curalius, Tilphosa, Haliartus — Thebes ; Dirce, Ismenus Road from Thebes to Platæa — Platæa and Thebes — The various Roads to Attica : 1, by Œnoe ; 2, by Phyle • 3 by Decelea ; 4, by Rhamnus — Bœotia — Homer's Catalogue — Comparison of Maritime Force of Attica and Bœotia— Station at Orchomenus — Course and Vale of the Cephisus — Plain of Orchomenus, or Northern Basin of Bœotia — Five important Cities on its Margin, at Equal Distances from each other — Lebadea— Technical Arrangements and Phraseology of Astronomy and Geography compared Basin of Orchomenus the natural Theatre of Bœotia— Chæronea, Plain and Battle of Coronea Battle of— Haliartus, Battle of — Mountain Circle of Bœotia — Commencement at Aulis Mounts Mcapium, Ptoum, Acontium, Helicon, Cithæron, Parnes— Thespiæ, Oropus, Delium— Helicon and Cithæron : Legend of— Their natural Scenery compared— Grove of the Muses on Helicon City of Thespiæ— Character of the Thespians— Zethus and Amphion— Road from Bœotia by Thespiæ to the Corinthian Gulf— Legends of Mount Cithæron— Erinnyes, Pentheus, Œdipus, Sphragitian Nymphs— Platæa— Campaign of Mardonius— Force of Mardonius— Topography of the Battle of Platœa — Three successive positions of the Greek Forces— Narrative of the Battle— Imminent Danger of Pausauias ; his Presence of Mind— Death of Mardonius— Various Moral and Political Results from the Physical Properties of Bœotia— Climate of Bœotia ; how produced— Exertions of Nature to remedy the Evil— Emissaries of the Copaic Lake— History of— Influence of the Copaic Lake on Bœotia — The Auletic Reed— Minstrelsy of Bœotia — Description of the City of Orchomenus — Its History— Basin of Thebes— Topography and Climate of Thebes — Thebau Character affected by Climate of

Bœotia Pa<»es 231 276 THESSALY.

Xerxes at the Mouth of the Peneus— Frontiers of Thessaly — Basin of Thessaly — Its Rivers — Character of Thessalian Legends — Egress of the Sea through Tempe — Marriage of Peleus and Thetis — Signification of — Views of the Sea from the Mountains of Thessaly — Their influence on Thessalian Mythology — Ceyx and Halcyone — Jason and the Argonauts — Centaurs and Lapithæ ; what they represent — Illustration of the Natural Properties of Thessaly from its Coins — Aboriginal Tribes of Thessaly — Commencement of our Survey from Jannina in Epirus — Pass over Mount Pindus — Roads and Bridges of Ali Pasha — Ascent to Metzovo — Khans — Metzovo, Present State of — Ceremonies — Ascent to Zygo — View of the Monasteries of Meteora — Ascent to one of them — Decline of the Monasteries — Church and Library — Æginium — Ancient Inscription — Aid of Inscriptions to Topography — Campaign of Julius Cæsar — Tricca — Ancient Thessalian Cities in the Vale of the Peneus — Their Ruins — Larissa — Present State — Scenes there — Influence of the Soil on the Thessalian Character — Ancient Inscriptions — Turkish Cemeteries— Vale of Tempe — Military Character of Tempe — Scenery of Tempe — Sources of its Beauty — Pompey and Pharsalia — Road from Tempe to Pharsalia — Present Aspect of Pharsalia — Battle of Pharsalia — Contrasts between the Accounts of Julius Cæsar and Lucan — Cynoscephalæ — Pheræ — Alcestis — Road from Pheræ to Volo — View on Approach to Volo — Mount Pelion — City of Demetrias — Iolcus, Anaurus, Cave of Cheiron on Mount Pelion — Botanical Fertility of Mount Pelion — Heroic School of Greece — Consequence of it in Ancient and Modern Times ....