Front matter
SUNNY LANDS AND SEAS. A VOYAGE IN THE SS. 'CEYLON.' tjfotes tttitta Jutting a | ito sarc IN INDL4.-THE STKAITS SETTLEMENTS-MANILA— CHINA-JAPAN— THE SANDWICH ISLANDS— AND CALIFORNIA. By HUGH WILKINSON, of Lincoln's inn. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1S83. fleiicaie thm Jlotjs TO MY FRIEND AND TRAVELLING COMPANION, ALBERT WOOD, Esq., Ol* DODLONDEB, CONWAY ; TO WHOSE AGREEABLE AND INTELLIGENT COMPANIONSHIP I OWE SO MUCH OF THE PLEASURE OF MY TOUR, AND TO WHOSE ACCURATE OBSERVATION AND NOTES I AM INDEBTED FOR MUCH THAT MAY BE FOUND OF INTEREST IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES.
Preface
. The story of the book is soon told. My friend and I left England on the 5th of December, 1881, to join the Ceylon in Egypt ; and having spent a short time on our way in that glorious, and now more than ever interesting land, we joined our fellow-passengers at the port of Suez. At Bombay, instead of proceeding with the ship to Ceylon, Madras, and Calcutta, we crossed the peninsula of Hindustan, and visited some of its most remarkable cities, rejoining the ship at Calcutta. After a short stay in Penang, Singapore, and Johore, we sailed to Manila, and afterwards to Hongkong, Canton, and thence to the three principal ports of Japan, passing through its beautiful and world-renowned Inland Sea. After spending nine days in the Sandwich Islands, we sailed to San Francisco, visiting the Yosemite Valley; and afterwards travelling by Ogden, Chicago, and Niagara, through Canada, and then to New York, we landed in England on the 5th of May, 1882, exactly six months from the day of our departure. VI
PREFACE.
. Ocean-yachting is certainly an excellent idea. Besides affording the luxury of travelling, it enables one to see much more in less time, and at a smaller expense, than going by the ordinary modes, whicli too often combine the wasting of time in places of com paratively little interest, with all the uncertainty of finding accommodation on the steamer when it arrives. Moreover, it opens out to the traveller places which cannot be reached by any direct line of steamers, and obviates all risk and annoyance with regard to luggage and sending home one's purchases. A further comfort, is that of knowing that our home is always near, to which we can return if we find (as is generally the case) that the hotels on shore are uncomfortable. In turning our letters into a book, it may be reasonably expected that we should wish to be heard in defence of its publication, if not in our justifica tion.
AVe know that much has been already written, describing the lands and seas we have traversed, for it is a well-beaten track, and one which would create no interest in the Geographical Society. The circum stances of travel, however, greatly differ, and we hope these notes of our tour may be interesting to those who may purpose making a similar one, as well as to others who never seem to tire of hearing an old story, even from inexperienced lips. Our letters, describing what we saw in the other half of the world, found a favourable reception among
PREFACE.
. VII a large circle of friends : and we therefore hope that in extending this circle, we may not be thought too presuming. Having neither theories to support, nor prejudices to overcome, we frequently seemed to be travelling to be disillusioned ; and though we were disappointed with much that we saw, the interest and enjoyment we derived from other and unexpected sources — but chiefly that never-tiring one, the study of mankind — more than compensated us. If these voyages are to become fashionable, travellers will see the world as we saw it, though each with his own eyes. "We learnt and unlearnt a great deal, both as to what we did see, and what we had expected to see. Our ideas of facts which books had taught us, and the unquestioned facts which we ourselves observed, were often most divergent ; and it is to record some of these that tho following pages have been written.
Our object is simply to give an idea, however faint, of those things which most impress the ordinary eye in so short a glimpse of the world as we enjoyed, and to protest against many of the numerous books of travel — generally those most read — which cause the 'globe trotter ' so much disappointment. We claim, however, the indulgence of our readers if our ideas have been either too strongly or presumptu ously expressed, and we would ask that they be only accepted as ' first impressions,' which the generality of ordinarily cultivated travellers cannot help deriving.
PREFACE.
. VIII As a sketch has many pleasing qualities which the more finished picture has long since lost, this must be our apology for its incompleteness, and the want of a deeper thought; for our scenes were continually changing, and our journeys very rapid. This is our only apology for allowing the following pages to go before the public ; and for hoping that, as the new year comes round with all the dubious blessings of a new crop of books, these notes of a most interesting and enjoyable tour may find a not unwelcome place among them. PAGE 1 11 17 CONTENTS.
Chapter I. The Threshold Of The East
Arrival at Alexandria. — First Impressions. — Arabs and Bedouins. — Suez. — Block in Canal. — Mosquitoes.— We embark. — Perfect Weather. — Christmas Day. — Perim. — Burial at Sea. — The Southern Cross.— First Fraud exposed. — The Ceylon -
Chapter II. The Cradle Of British India
Bombay. — Natives. — Fish and Fruit Markets.— Jugglers. — Malabar Hill. — Towers of Silence. — Vultures. — The Governor's Band ------
Chapter III
A GLIMPSE OF OLD INDIA. A NATIVE STATE. Journey to Jeypore. — Varieties of Animal Life. — Arrival at Dak Bungalow. — Sacred Cows and Brahmin Bulls. — Fine Streets. — Amber. — Sacred Alligators. — Temple of Goddess Kali. — Rival Scavengers. — Public Gardens. — Native Cricket. — Native Jeweller. — First Symptoms of the Curio Mania. — The Prison. — Laws of the State of Jeypore as regards Women. — Coiners and Warders CONTENTS. X PAGE 30 43 61
Chapter IV. The Rome Of Asia
Leave Jeypore for Delhi.— Its present Size compared with that of its Greatest Days.— The Pearl Mosque.— Palace of the Moghuls. — Tomb of Humaioon, Scene of Hodson's Capture of the Sons of the King of Delhi.— Kootub Column.— Reflections on the Past.— Bathing Tank. — Cashmere Gate.— Assault by H.M. 52nd Foot. — Capture of Delhi. — Obsequious Natives. — Objets tie Luxe. — Indian Crows.— Chandn Chouk. — An Honest Thermometer. — Native Funerals. — Leave for Agra
Chapter V. The White Blossom Of India
; AND LUCKNOW, THE CITY OF SORROWFUL AND PROUD RECOLLECTIONS. Journey to Agra. — Beautiful Scenery. — The Taj. — Its Beauties. — Fort, Palace, and Mosque. — A Novel Tug-of- War. — River Tortoises. — X Sad Incident relieved by a homely one. — Parakeets and Squirrels. — A Beautiful Juggler. — Mongoose and Snake Encounter. — Arrival at Lucknow. — The Well. — The Residency. — Graves of Noble Men - ' -
Chapter VI. The Holy City Of The Hindus
Benares. — Pilgrims. — The Sacred Ganges.— Buddha. — Mosque of Emperor Aurungzebe. — Pilgrims purging themselves of their Sins. — Indian Classic Models. — Burning Ghaut. — Well-to-do Priests. — Practices stopped by our Government. — Temples and Idols. — Fakirs. — Disappointment at Age of Buildings. — Streets. — Brahmin Bulls.— A Terrible Fright. — Jackals.— A Martyr. — Monkey Temple. — A Further Link for Darwin -
Chapter VII
'THE DITCH.' Calcutta. — Great Disappointment at the 'City of Palaces.' —The Maidan.— Botanical Gardens. — The High Court. — Visit to a Hindu Gentleman.— Tyranny of Caste. — CONTENTS. XI PAGE 77 '.14 117 Chiefs, Rajahs, and Poor.— Happier Future in Store. — Excursion up the River.— More burning Ghauts. — Un dignified and hasty Retreat. — Visit to a Country House. — Government House. — Investiture of the Nawab • of Bahawulpui*. — The Ceremonies. — Regret at Inability to visit the Himalayas. — Architecture. — General Remarks. — Picturesqueness. — The Hooghly
Chapter VIII. Our Possessions In Further India
Voyage to Penang. — Snakes. — Porpoises. — Flying-fish.— How we spend our Time at Sea. — A Novel Answer and a Good Excuse. — Our first Disagreement on Board. — Unanimity against the obstinate Crowd. — Penang. — First Sight of Junks. — Marvellous Vegetation. — Waterfall. — First Tropical Shower ? — An Irascible Landlady. — A Good Example. — Our Sportsmen. — Down the Straits to Singapore. — Divers. — Mosquitoes. — A 'Dutch Wife.' — A Glorious Victory. — Fish and Fruit Markets. — Chinese Servants. — Malay and Hindu Theatres. — Government House. — Invitation from the Maharajah of Johore. — Jinrickishaws. — Tiffin on Board. — The Maharajah and our Guests. — Leave for Manila. — Introduced to the North-East Monsoon. — Fish Spawn or Seaweed V — Entrance to the Bay of Manila. — Unnecessary Precautions. —Red Tapeism _ _ - - -
Chapter IX
A RELIC OF A ONCE GREAT EMPIRE. Manila. — Hospitality. — Earthquakes. — 'Pena.' — A Spanish Race Meeting. — A Row ! — Welchers again. — Spanish Ignorance on Racing Matters. — A Quiet Day. — Trip up the River. — Scenery. — Native Boats. — A Cock-fight. — • A Disgusting Spectacle. — A Boa Constrictor. — Lizards. — Acquaintance with a Native Caterpillar. — A Paradise for Botanists. — Visit to a Cigar Manufactory. — Fish-weirs. — Plain Evidence of Earthquakes. — A Convenient Instrument.— Government of Manila CONTENTS. XII PAGE 130 143 1G3
Chapter X. The Land Of The Celestials
(AN ENGLISH CITY.) Arrival at Hongkong. — Disagreeable Passage. — Great Change of Climate. — Chinese Dexterity. — ' Happy Valley.' — Cemetery. — Race-course. — ' Pidgen English.' — Leave for Canton. — A True Incident. — ' John,' and the letter ' r.' — Sampans. — Crackers. — Joss-papers. — Baby Rowers ------
Chapter XI. The Land Of The Celestials
(continued). (A NATIVE CITY.) Narrow Alleys. — Shops. — Appearance and Dress of Natives. ■ — Frightful Odours. — Gambling. — A Chinese Garden. — Native Employments. — Outside the City Walls. — The Prison. — Execution Ground. — Chinese Characteristics. — Examination Hall. — Sharp Attack of Curio Malady.— Water-clock. — Temple of the Five Hundred Wise Men. ■ — The Heathen Chinee and the Missionary. — The Biter Bit. — ' Susan,' her Dress, Boat, and Power of Conversation. — The Flower Boats. — An Opium Den. — A Chopstick Dinner. — Our Menu. — Typhoons and their Effect. — Back to Hongkong. — Duck-boats and Ducks — ' Rough ' on the last one. — Leave for Japan
Chapter XII. The Land Of The Rising Sun
NAGASAKI. KOBE. KIOTO. Dirty Weather. — Change of Temperature. — Nagasaki. — First View of Japan. — Contrast with China. — Japanese Customs and Characteristics. — Dandies. — A neat and wonderful Cultivation. — Our Coolies and their Prayers. — Japanese Streets, Shops, and Dress. — A Comparison not in our Favour. — Coaling. — Inland Sea. — Kob£. — Public Baths. — Journey by Rail to Kioto. — Scenery. — The 'Western Capital.'— Buddhist Temple.— Japanese Art.— Visit to the Theatre. — 'Saki.' — Actors and their Attendants. — Street Scene during a Fire. — Our Hotel. — Inconveniences of Shifting Walls CONTENTS. XIII
Chapter XIII. The Land Of The Rising Sun
PAGE Endurance of Jinrickishaw Coolies.— Their Short Lives. — The Japanese ' Big Paul.' — Scenery on the Road to Nara.— Tea-house. — ' Tiffin.' — Dai-Butzu. — A Primitive Hostelry . — Japanese Servants. — Dinner. — Cuttle-fish . — Native Candles. — Curios. — Midnight Visits. — Our Ablu tions. — The Road to Osaka. — -Unbidden Guests. — A Remedy. — Fish. — A Bicycle. — Osaka, the Venice of Japan.— The Mint.— The Castle. — The Fast Young Man of Japan. — Back to the Ceylon. — Curio Dealers and their Failings 183
Chapter XIV. The Land Of The Rising Sun
— YOKOHAMA. First View of Fusi Yama. — Letter Race round the World. —Tokio (Yeddo). — Temple of Shiba. — Along the 'Tokaido' to Kamakura. — Dai Butzu. — Immortality for 2s. 8d. — Along the Shore of the Pacific. — Enormous Crabs and Octopi. — Manner of expressing Pleasure and Esteem. — Opinions on Japanese Character. — De Bosco's Confessions. — Japanese Toilet.— Nature versus Art. — The Revenue. — Evils of Western Civilization. — A National Religion ' Wanted !' — Criticisms on Art. — Its Past and Probable Future - - - 202
Chapter XV. Hara-kiri
Description of Hara-Kiri.— Account by an Eye-witness. —General Remarks ----- 219
Chapter XVI. On The
PACIFIC— OUR VOYAGE TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. Good-bye to Japan. — A Sou'-sou'-wester. — We lose an old Friend. — From East to West. — Three Sundays in Nine Days ! — Portuguese Men-of-war. — Capture of Two Cape -hens, not 'Capons.' — Loss of the Screw of our Log.— Sandwich Islands visible.— Arrival at Honolulu - CONTENTS. PAGE 239 255 2G8
Chapter XVII. The Sandwich
ISLANDS— HONOLULU— THE IIArPY HUNTING-GROUNDS OF THE MISSIONARY. Another Fraud exposed. — Great Disappointment. — Conflicting Opinions on the Islands. — West of Ireland versus the Sandwich Islands. — The Town, its Streets and Houses. — The Vegetation. — Visit to a Whaler. — A Fruitless Search after Shells and Coral. — The View from the Punch Bowl. — The Pali. — Missionary Laws. — Present Native Population compared with that of former Years. — Programme of Honolulu Amusements. — Dinner at the Hotel. — The Fruit, etc. — Our New Passengers. — The King's Band ------
Chapter XVIII. Sandwich Islands
— HILO. The Leper Settlement. — Hawaii. — An Extinct Crater. — The way Hilo was saved from Destruction. — The Eruptions of 1859 and 1868. — Our Start for the Crater of Kilauea. — Tho Road to the Half-way House. — A Tropical Forest. — A really Civilized Native. — Difficulties on the Road to the Volcano-House. —A long and anxious Ride in the Dark. — Our welcome Arrival ...
Chapter XIX. The Sandwich Islands
— HILO II. View from the Volcano House. — Our Landlord at Breakfast. — Our poor Pack Animals. — Departure of all the Pilgrims but Six. — Our Plans. — An Enjoyable Dinner. — Start for the Crater. — What we saw there. — The Return to Hilo. —Our Party separates. — Adventures of Two of them. — Leave for San Francisco. — The New World in Sight. — Adieu to the Ceylon -
Chapter XX. The New
WORLD— CALIFORNIA. San Francisco.— Its Peculiarities. — The Chinese. — Our First Meal on Shore.— The Palace Hotel.— Our Breakfast.— Start for the Yosemite Valley.— Railway Travel- CONTENTS. XV PAGE 287 307 320 ling. — The Stage. — Villainous Roads.— A Flower Region. — Gold Mining.— Mariposa. — Revolver Carrying. — Im pudent Girls. — Indians. — Snow. — Pine Forests. — Cones. — ' Clarke's Hotel.'— Monster Trees. — Fires in the Forest. — The Yosemite Valley -
Chapter XXI. The Yosemite Valley
Our Descent into the Valley.— The Bridal Veil.— The River of Mercy. — The Three Brothers. — The Yosemite Fall. — Cloud's Rest. — The Half Dome. — Mirror Lake. — Union Point. — Heartless Desertion. — His last Ascent. — Leave for the Big Trees. — Through the Forest again. — The Grizzly Giant. — The Father of the Forest. — Through the Snow. — Moonlight in the Forest. — American Jealousy. — We leave for Madeira. — Indians. — San Francisco again. — The Climate - CONCLUSION **;<
Chapter I. The Threshold Of The East
Arrival at Alexandria. — First Impressions. — Arabs and Bedouins. — Suez. — Block in Canal. — Mosquitoes. — We embark. — Perfect Weather. — Christmas Day. — Perim. — Burial at Sea. — The Southern Cross. — First Fraud exposed. — The Ceylon. Hotel Suez, Suez, Dec. 20, 1881. We arrived at Suez on the evening of the 19th of December, after spending many glorious days in Alexandria and Cairo, having seen all their world famed sights, and having ridden for the first time through groves of the date palm, by the side of Nile lakes, through old Memphis, on to the Lybian desert, where we saw the wondrous tombs of the sacred bulls, hewn thousands of years ago from the solid rock deep beneath the glaring desert sand, then on to the Sphinx, and the great Pyramid of Cheops, and into its centre chamber, victimized by the extortionate rabble of Arabs clamouring for backsheesh, as so H many of our race have been victimized before, and to which, like us, they had also to submit.
We had seen the grand old Pyramids the day before from the citadel in Cairo in the distance, through the shimmer ing haze across the dazzling desert, looking like phantoms far away in the tremulous air; but that which startles one more than all these things, so familiar to us in image all our lives, is entering the glorious East for the first time — that first day in one's existence which can never die, for it is the awakening to a new life, a new world, illumined by a new sun, such as our cold mist-covered country can never see ; a sun which pours its rich light upon a nature entirely new and strange to one. It is here, for the first time, that we see in their own homes our dusky fellow-creatures ; the silent, stately palms, with their fruit-laden crests, those symbols of an Eastern world ; the clustering bananas under their huge green leaves ; the entrancing light and colour ; the rich-coloured oranges hanging from the trees ; the gorgeous flowers, growing in greatest profusion and perfection ; the kites, those scavengers of the East, which are soaring about everywhere ; and the narrow streets full of swarthy Arabs, Turks, Ethiopians, and Nubians, blazing in costumes from loose folds of dazzling white, to those of the richest and most varied colours.
This is but a tithe of what one sees and wonders at, and which gives one's life a zest and intensity which increases every step one gets farther away from Europe ; a land, where in winter one can bask in a climate like an endless summer's afternoon, and be ALEXANDRIA TO SUEZ. 3 again among the swallows and butterflies, and this, too, in less than a week from London, and at a time when our intolerable winter and its deathly gloom he so heavy over our country. A railway journey of five hours brings us to Cairo, having passed along Nile lakes, the haunts of in numerable wild-fowl, through cotton-fields, which from the train look precisely like vast fields of Marshal Neil rose bushes, both in growth and foliage, and with great numbers of pale-yellow blossoms hanging from the bushes. We also pass through sugar-cane fields, and other vigorously growing crops.
We see the stately indolent-looking camels, the Bedouin tents and Arab villages, the railway stations infested with their ragged crowds, the deep sunsets steeping the landscape in a flood of mighty colour, and the rich afterglows softening all things with a russet veil, even human hearts and passions. Another journey of eight hours from Cairo, most of it being over arid sand, generally level as water as far as we could see, and we are here. In Suez there is httle to do in the way of sight seeing, but there is much to occupy the eye. About the hotel are beautifully draped Arabs in folds of loose white flimsy cotton, many of them having faces stamped with great haughtiness and character: the women, too, with their rich, deep-coloured skins, have often fine straight-featured faces, and are sometimes very pretty — all being splendidly erect, from their habit of carrying their burdens so much on their heads.
They sit in groups at their doors with their children, 1—2 surrounded by legions of flies, the Uttle children's faces, near their eyes especially, being covered with black patches of them, which they seem either too indolent to brush away, or else have given up the ineffectual struggle with them in despair. On arriving here we found there was a block in the canal, thirty steamers besides ours waiting to pass through. It may be a day or two before the Ceylon will arrive, so for the present we are high and very dry here in the sand. There are many nice people in the hotel waiting for their ships to go off to new and dis tant homes in the East, so we are all, in one sense, in the same boat ; and our misfortune in being obliged to wait in so dreary a place as this has tended to link us together in ties nearer than those of mere acquaint ances.
Opposite the hotel, as far as the eye can reach, there is naught but sand and water to gaze upon, the latter looking* crisp and fresh, for a stiff breeze is whitening the tops of the blue waves, and giving a most enjoyable freshness to the air. The courtyard of the hotel is quite a little oasis in this blinding desert of sand, and the eye gratefully lingers upon the green-leaved palms and other tropical shrubs with which it is filled. After dinner we are treated to stories illustrative of the ferocity of the mosquitoes, from which it appears that they will rip up the beds and pull them all over the room in their rage, if they are unable to get at one through the curtains. But the most wonderful instance of their bloodthirstiness was that recounted by our WE EMBARK. 5 landlord, who, having tethered one of his cows over night to a tree, in the morning found only its mangled skin on the ground, and on happening to look up saw a huge mosquito on a bough actually picking its teeth with one of the horns of its victim, and watching him closely with an eye that nearly scorched him !
Dec. 21, 1881. We had a great downpour of rain last night, it being the first that has fallen here for ten months ; the streets this morning are, in consequence, most filthy, and the air muggy and hot. There is very great excitement amongst us all, for we hear the block in the canal is removed, and that the Ceylon will be through in about an hour. We can see a crowd of ships away in the distance over the sand, steaming slowly through the canal, which is about three quarters of a mile off. The Ceylon has just come in sight, so we must be off to meet her. She is to be easily distinguished from the others by her light dove colour. S.S. Ceylon, near Bombay. We joined our home for the next few months about three miles from the hotel, in the Gulf of Suez, after bidding hurried adieus to our friends, and the same evening we steamed away for Bombay.
Every day since we left we have had hot, cloudless, and breezy days, and all along the Red Sea have been occasionally in sight of land. The morning after we started we saw Mount Sinai, and low and perfectly barren moimtains on both sides of us, brilliant in pink and purple, with hard and ragged outlines against the clear, warm sky. The sea was, Allah be praised ! as calm as tranquillity itself, and everyone was consequently very happy, very hot, and not a few very thirsty. On Christmas Day it was nearly 90° in the cabins, and unclouded over head. It is Yule-tide nevertheless, and roast beef, plum-pudding, and the usual festivities had to be gone through, even in this Red Sea heat. The next day we saw the coast-line again, looking very beautiful — sky, land, and sea all blending harmoniously together in most tender colour, and low down on the sea Mocha, from whence we are told the celebrated coffee of that name never comes.
There is much languor on board ; the continued calmness of the sea astonishes us, but we are told that any time from November to April the sea is almost always like a pond, the sky cloudless, and the voyage a delight to all. In passing through the Red Sea one always hears from some of the nautical men on board the great dangers of being wrecked on the sterile shores on either side of us, and the almost certainty of all falling victims to either the wild beasts, the murderous tribes of natives, or, worse than all, a slow death from starvation. With small exception the parched desert sand and rock, which give out again the fierce heat of the sun, are all the comfort that relentless Nature here affords, and shipwrecked crews have gone through the most terrible struggles for hfe from both the cruelty of Nature and man before they have been welcomed by the relieving hand of civilization.
Six days after leaving Suez we were out of the Red PERIM. 7 Sea and past the Uttle British island of Perim which commands it. It is a barren island, without a trace of vegetation upon it that we could see, and is garrisoned by a British officer and a company of sepoys, who are reheved every three months from Aden, upon which they are dependent not only for their provisions, but even for their water ; so it is a veritable penal settlement. The story of our occupation of Perim is a strange one ; and if it be true it is stranger still, for it discloses conduct about which perhaps the less said the better. Not many years since a French admiral called at Aden, and accepting the hospitaUty of the English officers, his wine-loosened tongue acquainted them of his intention of proceeding next morning to hoist the French flag on the island at the mouth of the Red Sea, it being at that time ' Nobody's land.' The idea struck the British as being so good, that they sent on a fast steamer that same night with a handful of troops to get possession of the island before the French arrived.
When the latter did arrive, they found they had been forestalled and betrayed by their smiling, hospitable hosts, and, chagrined, they had to withdraw and satisfy themselves with the land on the other side of the straits, which here are about a mile broad, but which they were soon compelled to evacuate on account of the high death-rate amongst their troops. An amusing story is told of this island. The lieutenant in command of the company comprising the garrison there, on the expiration of his three months' command, appUed to his colonel at Aden for an extension, saying he would like to continue his arduous duties as commander-in-chief of the island. This was readily granted, his brother officers merely remarking, that he must be either mad or suffering from delirium tremens or sunstroke. The second three months over ; so proud was this young officer of his command, that a third and fourth extension was applied for, and, like the second, granted.
Unfortunately for this festive and sportive subaltern, the colonel of his regiment obtained sick-leave, and, happening to walk into the ' Rag' one day, found the vice-governor of Perim calmly eating his lunch. It appears that this Ueutenant, naturally preferring the gaieties and attractions of London to the barren desolation of Perim, had signed beforehand, and given to his sergeant, all requisite states and forms, leaving them to be filled in as occasion required, and had taken the first steamer for the more enjoyable pleasures of the metropolis ! What happened to this young and zealous officer we do not know, but we think he should at least have got his step for his con summate coolness. In the afternoon of the 27th, one of those sad and tragic incidents took place before which aU are forced to bow, and which pierce all to the heart.
Death knows neither times nor seasons for his unwelcome visits; without warning he swooped down in silent flight upon us, in terrible mockery in the peace and joy of this summer sea, and carried off in her sleep the only child-treasure of her desolate father. The solemn hush of death lay heavy on our ship, and our Uttle world was changed to stone. BURIAL AT SEA. 9 In the glowing calm of the foUowing afternoon, the placid waters of the Arabian Sea received the dearest charge a fond father could give it ; and after lingering near the haUowed spot for a short time, we steamed slowly on our way for Bombay. The funeral-service, which was attended by all on board, was most im pressive, and the scene a most dreadful and painful one. We saw flying-fish for the first time on Christmas Day ; they scuttle away from the ship in flocks, no doubt looking upon us as some huge devouring monster ; they generaUy fly about 100 yards close over the water, looking very much like quafls from their straight flight.
One came on board last night, a little feUow Uke a pilchard, with long wing-like fins. We have also seen bonitos bounding over the water, chasing them for long distances. It is difficult to believe we have been eleven days at sea from Suez ; the weather is so heavenly that we nearly sleep away time in a delightful languor, only now and again playing perhaps a lazy game at quoits, so the days fly quickly past. After dinner our ex cellent little band of twelve plays to us, and occasion aUy couples are seen gently dancing under the soft moonlight : over any flirting of which some of our amorous pilgrims may have been guilty we wiU draw a veil. Many of us sleep on deck, for our cabins are now very close. The Southern Cross we have been seeing for some nights in splendid briUiancy ; it is a very great disappointment, being simply four stars like this * * * and about the same distance apart as our Great Bear stars are from one another.
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You’ve reached the end of Sunny Lands and Seas. A voyage in the SS. 'Ceylon.' Notes made during a five months' tour in India-the Straits Settlements-Manila, etc.