American Photographs

Front matter

American |P^[0t0grap|s. Bt %m 3&. 48. tfurnlmU, AND §Jarian AmdntlL IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: T. C. NEWBY, PUBLISHER, 30, WELBEOK STREET, CAVENDISH SQUABB 1859. INDEX TO VOL. II. Page. Chap. 1. — New York to Cuba, Havanna 1 „ 2.— Cuba to New Orleans ; The Mississippi ; New Orleans ; Slave Auctions 26 „ 3. — New Orleans to Charleston ; Mobile ; Alabama Eiver ; Georgia 60 „ 4. — Charleston; The Races, &c 87 „ 5. — Boston to St. Louis ; Pittsburgh ... 110 „ 6. — Breaking up of the Ice at St. Louis, Buffalo 134 „ 7.— Philadelphia 151 9. — Richmond 202 >.• „ 10. — Richmond Continued; Christmas in the " Old Dominion ;" Norfolk 236 „ 11. — Dismal Swamp and Lake Drummond 252 „ 12. — Dismal Swamp Continued ; Norfolk to New York ; Voyage Home ; Conclusion , AMERICAN PHOTOGEAPHS.

Chapter I. New York To Cuba

; HAVANNA. Having endured the freezing cold of two winters in the northern States of America,.. we determined to spend the winter of 1854 in a more genial clime, and accordingly, in the autumn of 1853 we took passage in the ' Crescent City,' one of the United States' mail steamers, bound for New Orleans, via Havanna. As soon as we had got fairly out to sea, we found that any enjoyment we might ex perience must be entirely owing to the •officers and, passengers on board, and quite independent of the arrangements in the VOL. II. B. steamer, for a more uncomfortable old tub than this said Cresent City, it would be difficult to imagine ; everything on board was badly arranged and dirty; it is but justice, however, to say that this was an exception, as we have always found the steamers in the United States remarkably clean.

Perhaps these circumstances drew the passengers together more than usual, and the acquaint ance that thus commenced in speaking about some of the disagreeables we had to endure, ended at last in an a^reeablt intimacy, and all on board vied with each other in doing everything they could for the amusement of the rest. Captain Budd, of the United States Navy, who commanded the steamer this trip, declared he had never spent such a delightful time, and never had seen passengers so sociable and happy. There extends along the entire coast of North Carolina a ridge of sand, separated in various places from the main land by sounds and bays. Two capes, Hatteras and Lookout, project from this ridge, and it is considered that the most dangerous navigation on the coast of the United States is off Cape Hatteras, few vessels passing this cape with. out experiencing a storm, and it was our fate to receive a full benefit.

The old ship staggered aud rolled so dreadfully that we sometimes thought she would roll over. Some of the officers on board thought it was caused in a great measure by some very heavy goods that had arrived late, not having been placed lower, so that she was top-heavy; added to which, the original state rooms were below, and an additional deck and state rooms had been added above. One of the ladies of our party was so ill the night we were off Cape Hatteras, that she had to be taken out of her berth and placed on a sofa in the ladies' saloon, and Dr. Tennison, the medical officer, who was an old friend, sat up with us all night, and rendered her and many others every assistance. This young officer, who was a general favourite with all on board for bis talents and amiable qualities, has since been lost off Cape Hatteras, in the ' Central America,' Which foundered in a fearful storm, and .--tlmost every one on board perished.

Next morning the storm had abated, and we went on deck, leaving the young lady reclining on the sofa, with her hair all pushed back. A lady came up to one of "us and said in rather a mysterious manner, pointing at the young lady through the open hatches, " 1 cannot imagine why that y'o'ang man, in his elaborately frogged dressing-gown, lies there at his ease in the ladies' cabin. It is very disagreeable ; I wish he would go into his own state room ; "what an impudent young man ; and how he ;stares at the ladies !" Much to her amuse toaent and our own we informed her that the young man was a young lady, and our sister, ■and to this day we often laugh with her Irbout the mistake she made. The weather had now become so mild and warm that bonnets were discarded by all except one young lady, who wore a curious green barrel-shaped head-piece, which ob tained the name of the ' green lane,' from one gentleman declaring that before he could obtain a glimpse of her face, he had to look down a green lane.

The gentle men appeared in straw hats, and some in white coats, and if any stranger could have ioined us as we sat under the awning, they would have come to the conclusion that we were a very happy party, some sitting in groups, talking, sewing, playing cards, or telling fortunes ; and others walking, or watching the flying fish. Sometimes we had a song ; and one gentleman laughingly de clared that if he could, and it would amuse the others, he would stand on his head. After a short time we found out that there was a band of German musicians on board, and the gentlemen proposed that a purse should be made up for their benefit, and that we should engage them to play to us. These musicians appeared to be animated with the same feelings as ourselves, they refused any remuneration, and wished the money that had been collected to be ex pended in Champagne, to be distributed on the evenings they played.

The musicians suspended lamps from the awning, and every calm evening the pas sengers assembled on deck, and even the least enthusiastic appeared to be roused. Who would not have enjoyed it ; as we steamed along towards the Gulf of Mexico under a clear and cloudless sky, and to the sound of sweet music, without fear of the terrible buccaneers who once infested these waters? Even to this day the wonderfnl stories of their deeds throws an air of romance over the celebrated Gulf Stream, whose tepid waters of fifty miles in width are now supposed to influence the climate of many places, and to produce the mists and fogs for which our dear little island is "so much abused, forgetting that what h thus abused causes the warmth, beauty, and ever green appearance of our islands. We had a good view of the Bahama Islands, and passed the Florida reefs in safety.

Every day we congratulated our selves on being favoured with such fine wea ther, for every one was a little afraid of the old steamer — a fear that was afterwards found not to have been without foundation — for on a subsequent voyage in 1855 she struck upon the Bahama Banks and was so rotten that the bottom literally came out as soon as she touched the rock. There was only one passenger on board who unfortunately could not participate in our enjoyments. This was a lady, who was so ill when she was carried on board at New York, that her husband said he was afraid she would not live to reach her home in New Orleans, and dav after day she appeared to grow weaker. Fortunately she brought her own maid, as our coloured stewardess was a very refractory individual, as on the previous voyage the doctor was obliged to put her in irons for refusing to do her duty ; she would not attend to a lady who was very ill, and the docto* was obliged to sit up with the lady himself, and this time she was threatened with a similar punishment ; she was a curious creature, and took quite a fancy to one of the ladies with us, and before we left she asked as a favour if she might shake hands with her, and said : — " Dis chile wanted all da raornin' to git you 'lone by yarself.

I'se want to hab a little bit ob convazayshun, Missa, if you isn't ingage ?" In the course of conversation, Cain and Abel were mentioned and she commenced : — . " Oh daar am a kewrious story 'bout Cain and Abel ; you nebber hear um ?" "No, never." " Den 1 tell um s'pose ; ef 't be de troof im very quaw." Wall you see, Missa, Cain come like a streak ob de greased lightin, an send Abel to tha udda world, da raskel den run 'way after kill im, an sure as de sun, an faint no daloosyun, dat Cain turn berry, berry white, from de fear, am him hab nebber been right color 'gain, an dat am the reasou ob the color ob tha white folk." " And do you believe this story, Aunty ?" " No dat would de berry, berry, dreadful, an I doant like to be eytha black or yaller when Gorramighty take me to tha udda world , it am sat'n tha white folks am more handsome den de coloured, an da gospel say dat ebbery one be ob da same family, an ye see Missa Maria am a gwine to be pretty if she good gal ebbery day."

We had heard of this Negro superstition before, and if our readers could only have seen this Negro girl, as she told us the story, turning up the yellow white of her eyes, they would have been much amused. We are now in sight of the " Pride of the Antilles," that beautiful island on which b Brother Jonathan casts such " longing, lin gering looks." The Moro now comes into view, and every one is on deck dressed ready to go on shore. Many of our passengers were going to remain in Cuba, and others were in hopes that they would remain long enough to ad mit of landing, if only for a short time. No sooner had we passed the Moro and Punta Castles, which protect the entrance of the harbour, and dropped our anchor, than we were completely surrounded with numberless little boats laden with boxes of guava, cocoa-nuts, cigars, figs, large fresh oranges of a greenish hue, and many other delicacies, which the venders kept holding up, and gesticulating to us in the most frantic manner, clamorously begging us in their native tongue to " puy their goods."

Then came the Government officials to give permits, and to perform the delightful task of turning peoples' trunks inside out on the deck, which they did in a most gentlemanly manner. Next came swarms of fairy-like boats, decorated with white and red awnings and flags, with their rowers rigged out in snow white jackets and trousers, and straw hats, rowing as if for dear life, contending who should reach us first in order to take the passengers on shore, and presenting a most animated scene — the sun shining in all its effulgence on this lovely harbour. The first sight of the Havanna from the en trance of the harbour is exceedingly pic turesque. The entrance between the Punta and Moro Castles is 1,500 yards long, and the width in its narrowest part, is about 350. The Havanna is one of the most ca pacious harbours in the world, and one of the best defended ; for besides the walls and ditches that surround it, the city is defended by the Moro, the Principe, the Punta, the Cabanas, and the Altares.

The Moro and Punta Castles serve to protect the entrance of the harbour. The Cabanas is a citadel, and the others are placed in a position to cover all approaches by land. At the mouth there is no bar or impediment, except a rocky shoal, which extends about forty feet from the Moro. The depth of water at the entrance of the harbour is eight fathoms, and it is said that this beautiful harbour is one of the safest in the world. In the background the colossal palm trees which towered majesticallv on the hills, and appeared to overlook the city, forming, as it were, a beautiful frame-work of rich ver dure ; and the delicate shadows of the light cocoa-nut palms, on the grassy banks near the formidable fortifications, had a very striking effect. Of course every one was in high glee at the thoughts of going on shore ; but we were doomed to be disappointed.

Captain Budd informing us that no one would have time to land, as it was his intention to leave as soon as possible, and he could not wait for any of the passengers bound for New Orleans; only three, therefore, went on shore to see some friends, who said, if the steamer left, they did not care, as they would remain. All on board, although not in the sweetest of humours, tried to make the best of this disappointment by purchas ing all sorts of eatables, cigars, &c, from the people in the little boats, and then all proceeded to make an attack on the fine green oranges and guava. The flavour of these oranges was delicious, and very different to that of those which have been gathered even a few days, and twice the size of any we had ever seen in Covent Garden Market, or anywhere else ; so, thinking it advisable to have sufficient to last during the remainder of the voyage, we hailed a boat that was on its way back, and bought such a quantity that the Captain asked if we were going to set up a shop.

He might well have asked if he had only seen the doctor's room, which resembled a store room, piled up with oranges, preserved ginger, cocoa-nuts, boxes of guava, figs, and other delicacies. The doctor was actually obliged to occupy another state room, and before we reached New Orleans, frequent visitors might be seen regaling themselves in the country house, as the store room was called in consequence of its being on deck and near the chickens and cows We were now all assembled on deck, watching the sun which was about to set, and taking, as we though, our last look of Havana, for we had weighed anchor. We were just coming abreast of the Moro, and our friends who had gone on shore, were making the best of their way to catch us in a little rowing boat. The captain, however, would not wait, as he was determined to pass the Moro before sunset, after which time no ship is permitted to pass.

Here we sat on the qui vive, for we had doubts whether we should get clear of this formidable fortress — particularly as the Cubans hated the Crescent City which had several times left without leave, and had been fired into. However, on our captain steamed, and a young officer who had been appointed to watch our departure, kept along side, and said we should just clear the Moro if we were quick. Just at this moment, however, the sun disappeared beneath the horizon, and the flag was lowered on the Moro. " Quick ! quick !" shouted the young officer, but in an instant we perceived unmistakable evidences that cannon from the Moro was going to open fire on us, and at the same time the officer called out, " stop her, or you will be fired into !" This intimation in stantly stopped our career. Not a gloomy face was now visible except the captain's, and even the " Green Lane" was thrown back on this occasion.

In the evening we heard that this poor young officer had paid dearly for his politeness, as he had been put in prison, and it was expected his commission would be taken from him for allowing us to attempt to pass out of the harbour. All on board felt exceedingly sorry to hear what had befallen him, and the captain sent a report on shore giving a statement that the officer was not to blame. Every one was engrossed with the idea of landing as we could not now leave till daylight, forgetting for the mo ment that no one had any passes. This, as you may be sure, was a damper ; and as our party were bewailing their disappointment, Colonel Johnston and his daughter, who had come on board at Havana, politely came up to one of us and said — " If you do not object to go on shore under the name of Miss Johnston, and one of the gentlemen as Colonel Johnston, and take the consequences ; our passes are perfectly at your service."

This kind offer was ac cepted with many thanks, and assurances that we would incur the risk with pleasure. A boat was hailed, and away went Colonel and Miss Johnston, accompanied by the doctor, who did not require a pass, and our two friends, who had been on shore previously, all the other passengers looking on with envious eyes. We soon reached the shores of this beautiful island city, and found every one engrossed in the great event of the first appearance of a new Lieutenant Governor General ; and, in con sequence of this fortunate circumstance, we passed without any enquiries. We were told that if we intended to leave the island that night, we must be at the wharf at eleven o'clock, and not a moment later, as it was against the rules for any boat to leave the wharf after that hour. The first thing that struck us was the extreme lowness of the houses, which were not more than two stories high, and many only one, with flat roofs, and parapets of stone or iron, and not a chimney visible.

The exterior walls are coloured in an extraordinary manner; on one house you may see a large patch of blue, then a patch of orange, green, and yellow. This hideous way of colouring the walls is adopted, be- AMEhICAN PHOTOGRAPHS. cause they consider the glare of the sun light on white walls very injurious to the eye-sight. All the houses we saw, looked more like prisons than anything else to which we can compare them. Windows of large dimensions, destitute of glass, and de fended by iron gratings which admit the air. The doors were very large and similar to the windows, being composed of massive iron gratings. Through one of these doors we thought we would take a peep, and saw a large square hall, furnished like a drawing room, minus a carpet : in one corner stood, evidently in the light of a piece of furniture, a handsome volante ; beyond this we could just catch a glimpse of one or two rooms, most likely reception rooms, all car petless.

In some of the streets the pavements were so narrow, that when two of us were walking together, and a person wanted to pass, one was obliged to move to let them pass. The evening was getting dark, and as we were desirous to see the Governor, we made our way to the Plaza des Armas, where his palace is situated. When we ar rived, although it wanted an hour to the time when the opera commenced, which the Governor General was °"oingto attend in state, the Plaza was crowded with the elite of Havana, who had assembled to hear the band, and we were told it was customary on state occasions for the Governor to lead the way. A gayer scene could not be imagined. In this Plaza, hundreds of elegantly attired Cuban ladies and gentlemen were walking or sitting, listening to the delightful strains of the band, which was playing in the centre ; but what excited our admiration more than anything else, were the picturesque volantes with their gaily attired caleseros, and the horses decorated with ribbons of all colours plaited in their manes and tails, and then the tasteful toilette of the Cuban belles, as they reclined gracefully in their several volantes, dressed in bright coloured robes of a gossamer texture, which they permitted to extend beyond the car riage, and their jet black hair sparkling with gems or decorated with flowers, almost all the ladies having bouquets.

Not a bonnet was to be seen but Bliss Johnston's, every one else wearing the graceful mantilla. The twilight was over, and the lamps were lighted, notwithstanding the brilliancy of the moon. Balmy breezes filled the air; tropical flowers bloomed almost under our feet ; majestic palms waved their feathery plumes over our heads ; and the liquid sound of falling waters from a fountain completed the enchantment of this fairy -like scene. At the hour appointed the captain made his appearance, and drove towards the opera, followed by all who intended visiting the opera that night. The peculiar carriage of this island, the volante, took our fancy so much, that we think a description may please those who have never seen them. The carriage has accommodation for two ; but in consequence of their long and graceful sweep, there is room for a third on a smaller seat opposite.

The body is suspended on C springs, and hung so very low between the shafts that the heads of those inside are nearly two feet below the level of the upper section of the wheels, which are placed so wide apart, that it is almost impossible to overturn them, even in ruts where any other sort of vehicle would be upset. The wheels are always six feet at least in height ; we were told that some measured seven feet in diameter, and to the eye they appear even larger. The shafts are long in proportion ; indeed, some we saw were so long, that a second horse might be placed between the croupe of the first, and the body of the volante. One out rigger is always added to the left, on which the Calesero is mounted instead of riding the shaft horse ; this is the invariable custom in the Havana, but where the roads are very bad, which is frequently the case in the country, a second out rigger is attached to the other side ; but this is never permitted in the city.

The Caleseros were dressed in a smart sort of livery, resembling, according to our idea, the gayest of Spanish Mata dores, except, that if possible, more colored ribbons were used ; the buckles on their shoes were silver, and the ornaments on the trappings of the horses were of the same metal. The horses manes were plaited with narrow satin ribbon of the brightest hues : the tails were plaited in the same way with wider ribbon, and the grand ones had their tails fastened to the outside of the shaft, and from thence they hung down nearly to the ground— this arrangement struck us as very outlandish. Some of our Cuban friends told us that in some families where the members are numerous, and they are in good circumstances — they have three or four of these vehicles, which are always kept in the house, and considered as a great ornament.

They are generally placed in the room or hall which is visible through the door. Looking at our watches, we found we had only one hour to remain on shore, and having seen the principal objects of curiosity, Christopher Columbus' monument among the rest, we found our way to the great Cafe of Domenichos. On arriving at this well-known cafe, we found numbers of people in an immense room in full dress, sitting round little marble tables, indulging in ices and chocolate. We took our places close to a window, which reached to the ground, and every time we looked through the iron grating, it made us think we were in a prison. The chocolate, coffee, and ices were delicious. Before we left, the room was crowded with those that had been at the opera. We saw some beautiful little Cuban dogs, with creamy hair ; and the love of ribbons appears to be se great, that one round the neck of a dog did not suffice, but a hole was made through each little ear, and a ribbon put through and tied in bows.

Just as the clock struck eleven we arrived at the wharf and jumped into the little boat that was waiting to take us home, as we termed it. Never shall we forget this serene and lovely night, as we swiftly glided over the calm water, with the soft mellow light of the tropical moon, and the stars twinkling merrily in the sky ; all was beautiful, all was still, save the dipping of the oars in the silvery flood of phosphorescent light, which was so great, that when the oars rose above the surface, a glittering quicksilvery stream dripped from off them. Had we not seen it ourselves, w e could never have imagined any water could be so beautiful, and re gretted our steamer was so near. As soon as we neared her, the steps were lowered, and we were glad to find the rest of our party had not retired, that we might relate the wonders we had seen in a few hours ; and for more than an hour we sat chattino- D on deck, wondering how the others could have so little appreciation of beauty as to have gone below so soon.

They had also had an adventure on board during our ab sence. A lady went into her state room, and to her horror saw a strange man in her berth, covered up ; she instantly called for assistance, and the man was taken out. Upon inquiry, he proved to be a political refugee, who had escaped, and had succeeded in entering the ship without being seen. The poor fellow had hoped that the steamer would have been able to leave before sunset, and now he was in great fear that he should be taken off the steamer. Fortunately the captain was on shore, and as none of the officers saw him the affair was kept quiet and no notice taken. VOL. II. c

Chapter II. Ccba To New Orleans

; THE MISSISSIPPI ; NEW ORLEANS ; SLAVE AUCTIONS. As soon as the first faint cold steel-gray gleam appeared, we weighed anchor, and passed the Moro, just as the feeble streak brightened, widened, and spread, and blazed into a brilliant sky. A few hours after we left Cuba, a violent storm set in, and the whole night it continued with unabated fury. The first ques tion in the morning was naturally " How is the poor lady ?" when, sad to relate, we were informed she had breathed her last. Every one felt very sorry for her husband, who expressed the greatest unhappiness at the thought of having his. wife buried in the sea. The captain and the doctor told him that it was impossible to consent to keep the body on board, in consequence of the great heat, and they were very sorry to be obliged to inform him that it would be necessary to commit her to the deep that morning.

We were much grieved, as he appeared to be in such distress at not being permitted to carry the remains of his wife to New Orleans, and tried in vain to help him in forming some plan to satisfy the captain and doctor. At last he came to our father in the greatest despair, who said " If it is your desire that your wife should be buried in New Orleans, and if you do not mind in what manner she is conveyed, I will undertake that she is safely landed there, to the satisfaction of the captain and passen gers, and will answer for the consequences." The poor gentleman was delighted, and said he did not care how she went, " but what was to be done for a coffin ?" " Leave all to me. I will see that everything is done. Our father then sent for the doctor and the head musician. After considerable difficulty the man consented to let them have the large double bass viol case at the price he gave for it when new, and before twelve o'clock the deceased was carefully placed in it and surrounded with ice, in order to preserve the body, and the case was then firmly sewed up in canvas and lashed outside one of the paddle boxes.

The husband was delighted with this arrangement ; but the sailors made many objections, and declared they shouh :iever reach shore without some dreadful calamity, and that "MotherCarey's chickens" would follow us all the way. Every time they passed that paddle-box, we could see them move as far from the side as possible, and looked ominously at Mother Carey's chickens, which certainly followed us all the way into port, which, however, we reached, without any signs of the dreadful calamity they prophesied. Before we came within sight of land we noticed a great difference in the water of the Gulf of Mexico, which became white and turbid in consequence of the immense quantity of muddy colored water the Missis sippi throws into the Gulf out of its many mouths. When we arrived at the Balize we had a fine view of the Delta of the Missis sippi, one of the most curious and desolate looking places it is possible to imagine, we saw volumes of water, carrying in their pas sage large masses of earth.

Swampy looking ground almost covered with water, and here and there a tree almost imbedded in the mud ; and for the first time we saw what are called in the phrase of the country, " snags" and "sawyers." Some of these snags or trees, with their forked branches, were sometimes seen resting above the water, and at other times scarcely visible. We had not been long in the Mississippi before our steamer struck on a sand bar, and there we lay all night; the paddle wheels occasionally making spasmodic efforts to disengage the steamer ; the scraping noise of which was most disagreeable ; but not a foot did we move for hours, and we did not get clear of the bar till morning. There was nothing particularly worthy of notice on this portion of the river ; everything looked dreary and flat until we came near New Orleans, where we passed Fort Plaquemine forty-six miles distant.