A Summer in Brittany ... Edited by Frances Trollope

Preface

. The country which the following pages are intended to portray is not large in ex tent, or very important by position. And it may be thought, therefore, that two octavo volumes were hardly needed for its adequate description. But it must be remembered that the inhabitants of this remote province, though cer tainly not the only remaining lineal descendants of the ancient Celtic race, yet are by far the most perfectly preserved specimen of it. To the student of man, and his history, the Breton peasantry present an object of observation, as interesting and as suggestive as the fossilized remains of extinct races of organized beings can to the physiologist. VOL. I. A

PREFACE.

. When, therefore, I determined to attempt a description of the country which had so much interested me, I allowed myself what then appeared to me the ample space of two octavo volumes, in the hope of being able to present to my reader a full-length portrait of the Breton peasant, in all his different varieties, and marked by all those peculiarities of habits, manners, modes of thinking, dress, &c., which distinguish him from the peasants of any other race. But I cannot flatter myself that I have done this completely. As I advanced in the com position of my picture, I found that the can vass I had deemed so ample was far from sufficient for my purpose. I have been com pelled to hurry over many districts, which I wished to describe more completely, and to omit many details which I should have preferred giving to the reader at length.

I trust, nevertheless, that the following pages will not altogether fail in their intention. If the picture is not so finished as I could wish, the more strongly marked linea-

PREFACE.

. V ments are at least given — and with fidelity. And I shall not be disappointed if I shall be found to have awakened a curiosity, which my volumes are not sufficient fully to satisfy. Among the variety of books which have assisted me in conceiving and in describing the Breton character and peculiarities, I would particularize that of M. Souvestre — " Les Derniers Bretons." Without some clue, such as that which his work afforded me, I should frequently have been at a loss to find my way — so to speak — to many interesting but hidden recesses of Breton character, or to un derstand rightly much of that which every traveller must see. The reader will perceive that I have not scrupled to avail myself of his assistance in many instances ; and, at the same time that I acknowledge my obligations to him, I would bear testimony to his intimate knowledge of the people he describes.

But I would warn those who read " Les Derniers Bretons " as an accurate account of Britanny and its inhabitants, that they should remember that the a VI

PREFACE.

. tone of that work has been adapted by its author to the Parisian taste ; and that the couleur-de-rose hue of a poetic temperament has reflected its tints on facts and circum stances, which to a more matter-of-fact ob server might not appear to stand out in so romantically strong relief from the ordinary monotony of every-day life as it exists in other countries. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter II

Choice of Route — Ingouville Hill — Havre — American Vessels — Graville — Harfleur — Tancarville — Norman Driving — Protestants — Lillebonne — The Roman Theatre — The Castle — Walk to Caudebec . . . . ... 6

Chapter III

Caudebec — Its Church — Jumieges — Its Historian — The Abbey — Tradition respecting Agnes Sorel — The War ofthe Sturgeon — Abbot Philip's Reform — How to find a Drowned Body — The Loup Vert — Parish Church at Jumieges — Gargantua's Seat — St. Georges de Boscherville — Dinner in a Cabaret — Sunday in a Norman Village — The Abbey of Boscherville — Walk to Rouen — View of the City . . . . .25

Chapter IV

A Night's Rest at Rouen— The Quay—" La Normandie " and her crew— French Emigrants — Quillebœuf — Le Marais Vernier — The Roumois — Its Agriculture — Pont Audemer — The Rille — The Lieuvin — Lisieux— Journey to Falaise . .44 CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Falaise — Its attractions — The Castle — Anecdotes of its siege by Henry IV. — Valdante — Dissertation on Watermills — Norman distances— La Breche au Diable— Travels in search of a Bed. 61

Chapter VI

Journey to Caen— Death of William the Conqueror — Drawing for the Conscription— The Bessin— Prospect of Caen — The Church of St. Etienne— The College — French and English Boys— M. Mancel— Olivier Basselin — The Hospital . . .79

Chapter VII

Bayeux — The Tapestry — The Cathedral — The Canon of Cambvemer's Ride — Danish Language at Bayeux — Specimen of the Patois of the Bessin — Norman Love of Litigation — Journey to St. Lo 95

Chapter VIII

St. Lo — The Haras — Pleasing Mode of collecting a Poor-Rate — Fruit Market — High Mass — Valley ofthe Vire — Haymaking — Huguenots at St. Lo — St. Lo in Froissart's Time — Journey to Coutances — Musical Dinner Party — Women of Coutances — Les Piliers — The Cathedral — View from the Tower — Heauteville — Hambye — Perci — Vllledieu — Controversy on the Origin of the Pointed Arch — Geoffry de Montbray . . . 113

Chapter IX

Journey from Coutances to Granville — Reminiscences of the Attack on Granville by the Vendeans — Arrival of a Boat-load of Tourists from Jersey — Hill of Avranches — Difficulty of finding Accommodations — Site of the Cathedral — Anecdote from its Archives— Bishop Cenau on Flowing Tresses aud Favoris — William Postel — Calendar of Tiphaine la Fee — Language spoken in the Avranchin ...... 141

Chapter X

Expedition to Mont St. Michel — Nature of the Sands — A Norman Guide — Disastrous Sequel of our Expedition — Arrival at Pontorson — Remarkable Passage in the Life of Tiphaine-la-Fee — Virtues of a Char-a-banc — Interview of the Due de Richemont and His Brother John of Britanny — Notice ofthe Quicksands of the Couesnon eight hundred years ago — Arrival at Dol . CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XI

Frontier of Britanny — Peculiarities of the Breton Race — Their Backwardness in Civilization — Their Character — Dol — Its Cathedral and Bishopric — Bishop of Dol in the Thirteenth Century — Anecdote — Menhir, near Dol — The Town by Moonlight — Marshes recovered from the Sea — Mont Dol — View from the Summit ....... 177

Chapter XII

Dinau — Colony of English — Approach to the Town — The Chateau — The Place Duguesclin — Old France's Chivalry and Young France's Poetry — Tomb of Duguesclin — Walls of the Town — The Jerzual— Public Library — The Valley of the Ranee — Village of Lehon— Legend ofthe Priory of St. Magloire — Tombs of the Beaumanoirs — Chateau de Lehon — " Les Eaux" — Delights of " the Season" at Dinan — Walk to La Garaye — Valley of the Argentel ....... 190

Chapter XIII

Trip to St. Malo — Tourists in search of the Spirituous — Voyage on the Ranee — St. Malo — Walk on the Walls — La Conchee — Cesambre — Chateaubriand's Tomb — Trade of St. Malo — Origin of the town — Return to Dinan . . . 212

Chapter XIV

Excursion from Dinan — Corseul — Derivation of the Name — Roman Antiquities — Plancoet, the Unfailing Town — A Town Council — Incompatibilities — The River Arquenon — An " Esprit fort " — Quicksands — Castle of Guildo — Passage of Peasant Girls over the Sands — Superstitions — Return to Plancoet — Antiquarian Mail-driver — Visit to Montafilant — Return to Dinan . 220

Chapter XV

Departure from Dinau — May-day — Dipping Day — Walk to St. Juvat — Jauge Quarries — Breton Auberge — Breton Beds and Bedsteads — Kitchen Furniture — A Village Dinner . 243

Chapter XVI

Ornamented Crucifixes — Breton Saints — Origin of them — Legend — Village of Guenroc — French Taste — View of the Valley of the Ranee — Walk to Caulnes — Fair there — Quarters at St. CONTENTS. X Jouan — French Beds and Bed-rooms — Fine Arts in the Pro vinces — A Philanthropist — Inn Kitchen — A Frenchman's first glass of Punch " a l'Anglaise"— The Notable History of the Duck of Montfort . . • • • .263

Chapter XVII

The Receipt of Custom— St. Jouan — Walks to Broons — Castle of La Motte- Broons— The Boyhood of Duguesclin — Breton Costumes — Their Invariability— Coquetry — Toilet of a Bretonne — Kindness of M. le Maire . . . . .294

Chapter XVIII

Walk to Collinee — Etang de Vieu Pre —Farm-house among the Hills — Spinning in Britanny — The " Mene " — General Features of the " Cotes du Nord " — Contrast between the Hill Country and the Low Grounds — View from the top of the Mene — A Village in the Hills — Its Church — Its " Buchon" — Hollow Ways — Collinee — Fair Day — Difficulty of finding Quarters — Bas Bretons — Business of the Fair — Hair Dealers — " Humours" of the Fair — An Injudiciously selected Resting-place . . 305

Chapter XIX

Departure from Collinee — Views from the Mene Hills — Breton Children — We are suspected of Witchcraft — Loudeac — Hours of Eating in Britanny — School — Violation ofthe Grave — Theatre — Village Churchyard — Extraordinary Custom — Superstition. 328

Chapter XX

Fast-Day in Britanny — Soupe Maigre — Sociable Juge de Pays — Arrondissement of Loudeac — Weaving in Britanny — Efforts of Government to Improve the Country — Moral Improvement wanted — Favourable Circumstance — Inefficiency of the Church in Britanny— Anecdote — Walk to La Cheze— View of the Town — The Castle — Walk to Rohan — Abandoned Farm — Rohan — The Castle — The Due de Rohan — Old Woman's Reminiscences of the English .... . 342

Chapter XXI

Walk to Pontivy — Lower Britanny — Costume of the Peasants Peculiarities of Celtic Races — Characteristics of Lower Britanny— Legends and Traditions of the country — Noyal-Pontivy —A Sunday at Pontivy — Congregation at Church — Sermon — CONTENTS. XI 'sable d' hote — Napoleon beat by Breton pertinacity — Castle at Pontivy — F"air at Pontivy — Physical insensibility — A trial of strength — Walk to Corlay — Village of Mur — Slate Quarries — Storm among the Hills — St. Mayenx — Corlay — The Castle — Anecdotes of its history — The Prince of Guemenes mark — Walks in the neighbourhood of Corlay — A Bas Breton Priest — Frightful Superstition at St. Gilles — Abbey of Coetmaloen — Wet Walk to Quintin— Arrival at St. Brieuc . . 361

Chapter XXII

Wet Day at St. Brieuc — Townsfolk and Peasants — Origin of their Disunion — Chouannerie — " Acte de Foi" — " Acte d'Esperance" — State of St. Brieuc during the Chouannerie — Market — Origin of the City — Curious Feudal Rights of the Bishop — A Bas-Breton Clockmaker — Sale ofa Pianoforte — " Tour de Cesson" — Walk to Binic — Departure of a " Terreneuvier " — Chapel of Notre Dame de la Cour — Valley of the Less — Epitaph — Arrival at Guimgamp ...... 385

Chapter XXIII

Guimgamp — The Trieux — Extracts from the Account Books of the Town — View of the Town — Walk to " La Tour du Bois de la Roche" — Marriage at Guimgamp — Chapel of Notre Dame de Grace — Grotesque Carvings — La Fontaine de Plomb — Walk to Pontrieux . • . . . .404

Chapter XXIV

Peasant's Funeral — Chateaulin — Le Temple de Lanleff — Different Opinions respecting its Origin — Difficulty of obtaining Breakfast — Arrival at Paimpol — Position of the Town — Sea Views in the Neighbourhood — Old " Manoirs "— " Droite de Mo' te" — " Place DuMartroy . . • . . .418 ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I. PAGE Peasant of Quimper . . . Frontispiece. Inn Kitchen at St. Juvat . . .258 Fair at Collinee ..... 323 Peasants in Prayer at the Graves of their Relations . 340 Group near Corlay .... 380 VOLUME II. A Peasant Bride . . . Frontispiece. A Breton Tragedj . .9 Leonard Peasants in the Market-Place at Morlaix . 125 Going to Market ..... 220 Menhir, near Brest . 296 Congregation coming from Grand Mass in the Cathedral at Quimper . . . . .351 The Sea-weed Gatherers . . . A SUMMER IN BRITANNY.

Chapter I. Introductory

The following pages are the result of two visits to the country they attempt to describe. The first was confined within the limits (all too narrow !) of a six weeks' ramble. The second occupied the summer months of 1839. Britanny has been very little visited ; less, perhaps, than any other part of France. But one of the results of my excursions there is a conviction that this neglect has been caused by its remote and isolated position, rather than from any lack of objects of great and varied interest to the tourist. Its population is by far the most perfectly preserved specimen, which remains to us of VOL. I. B INTRODUCTION, that old Celtic race, which once possessed the whole of Western Europe ; and the inhabitants of its remote towns and secluded villages are not only remarkable from the singular degree in which they have preserved their primeval manners, habits, superstitions, and modes of thought, unchanged by contact with another race, but are, to us especially, interesting from the very curious connexion, in many respects, which exists between them and the inhabitants of our own western and southern coasts.

The sombre and romantic character, too, of the country itself, the traditions of its gloomy and legend-stored history, and the mysterious interest which attaches itself to those stupendous, though barbaric monuments, so frequent throughout the lower pro vince, all conspire to arouse curiosity and excite the imagination. " Dans cette vielle Armorique," writes a recent author, on the antiquities of his country, " ou la civilisation est restee de beaucoup en arriere, ou les innovations ne peuvent que difficilement parvenir, se retrouvent avec ces pierres sacrees rongees de mousse et chargees de siecles, les traditions, les mœurs, la langue, meme le costume de ces Celtes, tige primitive de tant de nations actuelles, et que les plus

Introduction

. anciens historiens de l'antiquit6 qualifiaient eux-memes des lors de l'epithete de vieux. "Depuis des milliers d'annees le sol pres qu'inculte de la basse Bretagne n'a pour ainsi dire pas change" d'aspect. C'etait, du temps des Druides, de sombre forets, de vastes bruyeres, des rocs sourcilleux, de profonds ravins, des rivages inaccessibles ; c'est encore aujourd'hui la meme chose." My curiosity, thus excited, was so much gratified, and yet so little satisfied, by my first short trip in 1837, that I determined, at some future opportunity, to devote a sufficient time to a thorough examination ofthe country. I had become aware that the only mode by which this could be done satisfactorily was by discarding all other equipage than the staff and knapsack. This humble but independent mode of travelling is, in truth, the only means of becoming really acquainted with any country.

But it is more especially the case in one where communications are unfrequent and imperfect, and where the grand routes and great towns are very far from affording a true specimen of the real mass of the population. *' Ce n'est," observes M. Souvestre in his work on the present state of the Bretons, " qu'en s'ecartant des routes frequences, en b2

INTRODUCTION.

. se lancant a pied a travers nos chemins creux, en traversant de pierre en pierre les cascades de nos ruisseaux sans pont, ou les fondrieres de nos marecages, que Ton peut arriver aux cantons isoles dans lesquels se retrouvent encore les traditions locales, et les croyances du pays. La aussi, et la seule ment, le peintre peut rencontrer la sauvage et saisissante majeste d'une nature vierge de toute trace moderne, entremelee partout de ruines druidiques, religieuses, et feodales, qui s'y trouvent, comme les pages eparses d'une histoire oubliee." It was in the manner here recommended, therefore, that I determined to see Britanny and its inhabitants. This project I put in execution last summer ; and so much pleased was I in all respects with my three months' wanderings, that I much wish I could tempt any of those among my ubiquitous countrymen, who are every year in search of some new touring ground, to follow my example.

To any, who may be disposed to do so, the relation of my " experiences " may, I hope, prove useful ; and, I confess, I am tempted to believe that some account of a country so little known and so singular as Britanny may be not unamusing to the general reader.

INTRODUCTION.

. I am aware that readers and writers are frequently of different opinions upon this point, but how far this unfortunate discre pancy may exist in the present instance can only be ascertained by experiment. CHOICE OF ROUTE.

Chapter II

Choice of Route — Ingouville Hill — Havre — American Vessels — Graville — Harfleur — Tancarville — Norman Driving — Protestants— Lillebonne — The Roman Theatre— The Castle— Walk to Caudebec. In company with a friend, whom I had persuaded to be the companion of my ex cursion, I steamed from Southampton to Havre. But if Britanny only be a tourist's object, he might pass from Southampton to Jersey, and thence to St. Malo or to Gran ville. We wished, however, to have a peep at Normandy, and its river, and its churches. But as Normandy, and its river, and its churches, have been as much visited and written on as Britanny has been neglected, I shall pass rapidly over that part of my journey. The Camilla left Southampton pier at one o'clock p. m., and we walked out of her, on Havre quay, at three o'clock the next morning, INGOUVILLE. the worse for nothing but the bugs, of which the Camilla carries a mighty nation.

To go to bed at three o'clock on a fine mid summer morning was quite out ofthe question. To get any breakfast, or to pass our knap sacks at the douane, was equally impossible. So we quickly decided that a walk to'the top of the hill we saw above us, overlooking the town, would be the best mode of employing the hours till breakfast could be had. Ac cordingly, we traversed the town and the fauxbourg of Ingouville, and began to mount a steep hill-side, amidst pretty houses and terraced gardens, whose comfortable appearance and delightful situation plainly pro claimed them to be the dwellings of English men. So favourite a residence has it become for those who expatriate themselves in search of claret and brandy, duty free, that the side of the hill which overlooks the high road be tween Havre and Graville is being cut into terraces, in preparation for new rows of houses and gardens.

The land here has risen in value, during the last twenty years, with wonderful rapidity. The situation of those houses especially, which are more immediately above the town, is, indeed, one of no common attraction. INGOUVILLE HILL. The town itself, with its basins and shipping, mingling with roofs, not red with tiles, or bright blue with slates, but of stone, whose varied and subdued tints make the generality of continental towns so much pleasanter objects to look down on than our own — the broad bosom of the Seine, with its passing and repassing crowd of vessels, bounded on the opposite side by the wooded heights of Harfleur — the sea, studded with white-sailed fishing-boats, and then, in the far distance, the dim coasts of Lower Normandy — all con tribute to produce for the dwellers on the hill of Ingouville as pleasing a prospect as the eye can rest on.

We stood for some time gazing on the scene as it was progressively illuminated by the sun rising behind us ; but when at length he poured down his full flood of light upon the town, lighting up its gray roofs, and making it look the most cheerful place in the world, we began to think what a pleasant thing it would be to be sitting at breakfast at some one of those windows we could see glancing in the sun. No time was lost in attaining a consummation so devoutly to be wished. We forthwith commenced our de scent, meditating, as we stepped along at five miles an hour, on cafe" au lait in huge cups, HAVRE unnumbered shrimps, and petits pains by the dozen. Nor did our deeds fall far short of such mighty threatenings ; and great was the marvelling of the garcons, at the Hotel de Lon dres, at the repeated " encores " with which we honoured all the component parts of a very excellent breakfast.

But when, at length, the last cup of coffee was finished, and the last fragrance of the cigar, which followed it, dissipated, there was yet some time to elapse before the business of the day would com mence at the douane. And this we employed in ascertaining, that beyond the usual at tractions of a pretty, thriving, busy, bustling town and port, Havre has very little to interest or detain a traveller. One very queer-looking tower there is, standing at the entrance of the harbour, which, for aught I know, may be highly in teresting to the architectural antiquary. It is studded all over with little bosses, standing out in high relief from the stone, which, at a short distance, make it look like a tower re markably disfigured with the small-pox. Before the revolution, the commerce of Havre with the colonies of France amounted to more than three hundred millions of francs, says Goube, in his History of the Duchy, AMERICAN VESSELS. of which St. Domingo produced by far the greatest part.

Almost all the elements of this prosperity were swept away by that tre mendous storm ; and for a while it seemed that the commercial importance of Havre was gone for ever. Within the last few years, however, new prospects and richer hopes have been opened to her, and her basins are, at the present day, well thronged, and her quays never idle. A walk round the various docks is quite sufficient to show that, to its commerce with the United States Havre must owe its present and future commercial wealth and importance. But nearly all the tall and trim vessels, which declare this fact so plainly, are Americans. I entered into conversation with the mate of one of them, and, among other things, asked him in what work the hands were then engaged. " In getting out the cargo, when we can get the lazy devils here to attend to us," said he.

" Ah," said I, " you'd show them the way on your side of the water to clear a vessel and send her to sea again in less time than you have been here." " I should hope so," was the reply ; -- or at Liverpool either for that matter," he added, returning the compliment. " Why, last trip, GRAVILLE CHURCH. we had cleared and got our lading at Liver pool before we had been there as long as we have been here already, and we have not half discharged our cargo yet." By the time we had finished our walk round the basins, the slow douaniers, whom I had left my American friend heartily anathema tizing, were ready to commence operations. So we proceeded to the Custom-house, and after a vast deal of noise and bustle, and very little real examination, we got possession of our small effects, and in a quarter of an hour more were jogging along in a char-a-banc to wards Tancarville.

As we passed beneath the curious old church of Graville, our driver did not fail to inform us that it was " bati par les Anglais de milliers d'annees passees." This is the universal po pular creed in this part of the country respecting nearly all the churches. It is well worth any one's while, be he architecturally curious or otherwise, to leave his conveyance in the road, and mount the steep on which this little church is built. Before the revolution it was conventual, and some remains of the monastic buildings are at present used as the mairie. But part of the site of the convent is now an unoccupied space, from which there is a lovely view of the river and its wooded banks. HARFLEUR. Should you, however, be architecturally in clined, dear reader, you have indeed a treasure at Graville. Hear Mr. Turner, in his letter press accompaniment to Cotman's splendid work.

" The end of the north transept will in point of interest scarcely yield to any other building in Normandy. The row of sculpture immediately above the windows is probably unique." There ! We next passed Harfleur, having bestowed the deserved tribute of admiration on the ele gant and highly-wrought steeple of its old church — all that Harfleur has now to detain anybody. The upstart Havre has taken from it all its glory and importance, merely because it happens to be nearer to the sea. See what a thing it is to be in luck's way ! Old Har fleur however is still garrulous of better days, and has its tale to tell of struggles with the English, of sieges stoutly withstood, and re prisals boldly made ; — all the particulars and stirring circumstances whereof old Monstrelet will tell you, if you are curious thereanent.

But, if you care not for such musty matters, and love rather the bright and sunny present, be sure to turn round when you get to the top of the hill beyond Harfleur. Thence shall you see the quiet little town and its steeple, and the river and its banks, and Harfleur and TANCARVILLE. 13 its hill in the distance ; and immediately be neath you, to the left of the road, as pretty a green valley as the pays de Caux has to show ; ■and that is saying no little. At St. Romain we turned, from the high road to the right, towards the river ; and after passing an abandoned village church, which will shortly be a picturesque ruin, and the pretty wood-embosomed village of La Cer langue, soon found ourselves traversing the glades of the small forest, which skirts the river, by the most romantically bad road possible.

A steep descent brought us to a narrow valley, through which a nameless stream finds its way to the river ; and in five minutes more a turn in the road showed us the old towers of Tancarville, still rearing their bat tered walls above the surrounding forest, on an eminence to the right of the valley. On the opposite side is ahill, higher than thaton which the castle stands, but unclothed with trees. We forthwith proceeded to mount the path, which, winding up the ascent, soon placed us before the principal entrance to the castle. The massive round towers which flank this gateway have withstood the injuries of time and of man better than any other part of the building ; and they have been selected as the subject of one of Mr. Cotman's plates. TANCARV1LLE. It is a picturesque and striking spot ; and we paused awhile before the old gateway, picturing to ourselves the gay and sparkling cavalcades which had passed from those crumbling walls to the tournament or the chase — the returning palmer or wandering trouvere, who had arrived before them to claim their ever-ready hospitality — or the iron-clad followers of some hostile baron, who had vainly sought to surprise the lord of Tancarville in his stronghold.

The dark old towers frowned their defiance as grimly on us as ever ; and the stout oak door, though the worms and the rot had eaten into his strength and left him little better than a wreck, still made some show of resistance with his thickly studded nails and enormous hinges ; but we obtained entrance unchal lenged into the fortress of the hereditary chamberlains of the dukes of Normandy by lifting a latch, and found ourselves in a spa cious court, surrounded by five ruined towers, and the remains more or less considerable of the walls, which had united them. On the western side of the court and oppo site to the gateway is a mass of sufficiently ugly modern building, which has been used as a barrack at different times since the revolution. That one of the five towers which is TANCARVILLE. 15 nearest to the river is called the eagle's tower ; but I am sorry to say that I am unprovided with any interesting historical anecdote to show the origin of so romantic an appellation.

Its present tenant, the old woman, who dis charges the functions of warder of the castle, and of the cow which grazes in the court, knew nothing about it. Dr. Dibdin, in speaking of Tancarville, calls it the castle of the Montmorencies ; on which Mr. Turner observes that he knows not on what authority he does so, and that he never heard it so styled in Normandy. He goes on to give a very succinct account of the descent of the property down to the year 1718, in which certainly no Montmorenci figures. But it is equally certain that the castle was in the possession of some member of that family at the period of the revolution ; and the old por tress told us that her husband had seen six cart-loads of records removed at that time by the Montmorenci family from a little vaulted chamber under the eagle's tower.