Austria

Preface

. In the various countries Avherein I have happened to be a temporary resident, I have felt great interest in the acquisition of such knowledge as might be within my reach, Avith respect to the genius and the effects of their established institutions. Without the slightest idea of publication, I continued the same line of inquiry during my stay in the Austrian dominions. Circumstances of a peculiar nature favoured my pursuit ; and, on my last return to Eng land, I found myself possessed of much information, tending to elucidate a variety of points hitherto, as it appeared to me, very imperfectly understood, and leading also to vieAvs, both as to the government and the people, materially different from those which I had myself, in common probably with most of my countrymen, previously entertained. Hence I Avas led to conceive that I might not be performing an VI

PREFACE.

. altogether superfluous or unwelcome office, in sub mitting to the public some portion of the results which had folloAved my researches; and conse quently, as early as the autumn of last year, a Avork Avas announced on tbe subject, intended to conclude Avith such notices of our travels as related to the southern provinces of the empire. On preparing the manuscript however for the press, I perceived that details collected only for private use exhibited various lacunæ, little important perhaps in themselves, but AAiiich it would be ex pedient to fill up, in order that the course of observations, in AA'hich they occurred, might be satisfactorily and conveniently folloAved. For this purpose I Avas obliged to recur to the proper sources of information in the countries on which I Avas treating ; — and this has necessarily caused considerable delay.

On further consideration, also, I have extended the personal narrative, so as to comprehend a larger portion of our travels in the Austrian States than had been originally proposed ; and this portion of the Avork, exhibiting men and things in their out- Avard appearance as they may be viewed by the passing stranger, has been altered in point of arrangement, so as to precede, rather than to follow,

PREFACE.

. VII the more important attempt to explain the causes and circumstances by which their real condition is produced or affected. Thus, in the order noAV adopted, the first volume contains the " Narrative of Travels," being remarks and reflections made in the course of our journey through the most interesting parts of Bohemia, the states of Austria and Styria, the Illyrian Pro vinces, and the Peninsula of Istria; — including, besides the more prominent objects of general inter est, notices of the antiquities and present condition of Pola; of the commercial ports of Fiume and Trieste ; of the monastic establishments of Admont Molk, and Mariazell ; of the mines of Idria ; and of Carlsbad, Gastein, and other principal Baths ; — to gether Avith some account of the exiled royal family of France, avIio Avere then residing in the vicinity of Prague.

The second volume comprises the notices on the social and political condition of the empire, arranged with reference to its various most important elements, — religion, education, morality, jurisprudence, feudal and municipal institutions, civil and military administrations, and domestic and foreign policy. It has been my endeavour mainly to relieve the former volume of such observations as relate to

PREFACE.

. statistical and political subjects, and to transfer them to those chapters in the latter to Avhich they re spectively belong. Should I, in this attempt, not have entirely escaped repetitions, I trust the difficulty attending the separation will be admitted as my excuse. The political and social state of Hungary has been incidentally mentioned in several chapters, as the subjects to Avhich they respectively relate have rendered it expedient to do so ; and in the one on " In ternal Policy" avUI be sound a general outline of the existing constitution. Having studied it both in its theory and its practice, Avith an interest proportioned to its singularity, during a residence in the country for several months, at a period when the Diet was sitting, I regret that it has been impossible for me, in a Avork like the present, to render a full and just account of institutions so peculiar both in their structure and their bearings.

If my health should allow me, I may possibly be tempted to submit here after to the public a separate essay on that distinct subject. Of the sources from whence my statements and reflections are derived, some are in their nature open to all, while others are of a more private and

PREFACE.

. IX peculiar character. In Austria, as in several other countries, I have found myself in relations of great intimacy Avith individuals of various ranks — some in the more loAvly Avalks of life, and some in the most elevated stations — Avhose friendship has been productive to me, not only of high enjoyment in my social hours, but of the most useful and varied in formation. By a comparison of facts and sentiments thus obtained, I have endeavoured to arrive at truth ; but the private communications Avith which I have been favoured I have used Avith the greatest caution, and never Avithout having satisfied myself that in so doing I had the sanction of those from Avhom I received them. The chapter on " Foreign Policy " contains some paragraphs Avhich have already appeared in print ; having formed part of a short pamphlet, entitled " British Diplomacy and Turkish Independence," Avhich I published anonymously in the early part of last year.

The object of that pamphlet Avas to ex hibit the general condition of the Ottoman Empire and the innovations introduced by the then reigning Sovereign — the genius and results of that singularly able policy Avhereby Russia carries into effect her plans of gradual aggrandisement — and the necessity X

PREFACE.

. on the part of England, for her OAvn vital interests, that she should adopt a total change of system, both in her local diplomacy at Constantinople and in her general policy amid the states of Europe. I may add that subsequent events are but too unhappily con curring, to confirm the vieAvs and substantiate the statements which I then advanced. M CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

Leave Dresden— Saxon Switzerland — Bastey — Schandau — Probischer Thor — Elbe — Enter Bohemia — Contrast of Appearance — Arbesau — Battle of Culm — Teplitz— Baths — Environs Mode of Life — King of Prussia — Von Humboldt . Page 1

Chapter II

Journey to Carlsbad — Carlsbad — Singular Illumination — Local Description - — Springs — Geology — Life at Carlsbad — Grand Duke Michael — Departures — Second Season — Poles — Comparative State of the Poles in Prussia, Austria, and Russia — Polish War — Exiles in Siberia — Prince Louis of Rohan — Circumstances of the Death of the Duke de Bourbon . . p. 36

Chapter III

Bohemia— Climate, Soil, Geology — Travelling — Appearance and Condition of the People — Eger — Baths of Franzenbad — Marienbad, Situation, Waters, Mud and Gas Baths, Society — Journey to Prague — Description ofthe City — Palaces, Churches, Libraries — Ancient noble Families — Population, Institutions, Commerce, and improving Condition — Procession to supplicate Rain — Language of Bohemia — Remarks on the Austrian Policy towards Bohemia p. 77

Chapter IV

Visit to the exiled Royal Family of France — Duke de Bordeaux — Duchess d'Angouleme — Charles X. — Carlists and Henriquists — Education and prospects of the Duke de Bordeaux . p. CONTENTS. XII

Chapter V

Leave Prague— Further observations on Bohemia— Enter Upper Austria— Linz — Salzburg — Appearance of the Country — Description of the City, and State of its Inhabitants— Journey to Gastein— Salt-works of Hallein— Falls of Golling— Pass of Lueg— Gastein— Grand Scenery— Vales ofthe Alps — Elevated plain of Naasfeld— Vale of Bockstein— Gold Mines and Works — Population and Condition, past and present — Geological observations on the Valley of the Salzach . . . Page 129

Chapter VI

The Salzkammergut — Ischel — Population, its Number and Condition — Lake of Gmunden — Falls of the Traun — Sir H. Davy — Enter Upper Styria — Aussee and its Environs — Admont, its Monastery, Library, and Botanical Collections — Observations on the History and Character of the Benedictine Order ; their Rules, Observances, and Present Condition — Leave Admont — Vale of the Enns — Eisenerz — Vordenberg — Bruck — Journey to Mariazell — Imperial Iron-works — Observations on the Austrian Foundries — The great Employment of Manual Labour — The Effects to be expected from an Increase of Machinery — State of Roads and Communications p. 163

Chapter VII

Mariazell — Locality and Population — History of the Shrine — The Church and Treasures — Ecclesiastical Establishment — Number and Conduct of the Pilgrims — Arrival of one Company — General Character of the Devotional Service — Leave Mariazell — Annaberg, Durnitz, Lilienfeld - Condition of the People of Upper Styria and Upper Austria — Farms, Products, Rural Industry — Peculiar Habits and Tendencies— General Character — Monastery of Molk— Its Situation, Establishment, and approaching Festivities — Ineffectual attempts to folloAV the course of the Danube— Great Market at St. Polten — Arrive at Vienna p CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter VIII

Vienna — Extent — Population — City and Suburbs — Climate — Resources — Character of the People — Society — Feudal Ceremonials — Hungarian and German Guard — Presence of the highest Authority at Fires — Habits of the Emperor — Public Library — Early Printed Works — Manuscripts — Tabulæ Peutingerianæ— Imperial Museums, Cabinets, and Collections — Gallery of Ambras — Private Collections — Imperial and Private Galleries of Paintings — Imperial Treasure — Regalia of Charlemagne — Crowns of Bohemia, Hungary, &c. — Theseium and Group of Canova — Imperial Vault — The Emperor Nicholas at Vienna Page 212

Chapter IX

Journey from Vienna to Gratz — Baden — Wienerisch Neustadt — Military Academy, and Observations on Education — Cistertian Monastery — Cathedral, and Monument of Zrini and Frangipani — Neustadt Canal — Schottwein — German Posting — Briick — Feistritz — Mines — Arrival at Gratz .... p. 247

Chapter X

Gratz — Town — Population — Resources — Climate — Johanneum — The Archduke John — Residence at Gratz — Productions of Styria— Mines — German Industry — Departure from Gratz — Marburg — Laybach — Character of the People - Illyrian Provinces P- 263

Chapter XI

Departure from Laybach — Idria— Locality— Quicksilver Mine- Method of working it — Extraction of the native Metal and of Cinnabar— Miners and other Workmen — Unhealthy Character of the Labour — Hours of Work— Pay, Superannuations, &c. — Adelsberg— Subterranean Passages and Rivers — Caverns of St. Catherine and of the Magdalena — Proteus Anguinus — Bear Hunt- Peasantry of Carniola — Journey to Trieste— Change of Climate and Scenery— Arrival at Trieste . . . p. CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

From Trieste to Fiume — Description of Fiume — Situation — Anchorage — Commerce — Difficulties to the Extension of its Trade — Environs — Buccari — Town, Harbour, and Commerce — Porto Re — Harbour — Marianna Steamer — Hospital at the Entrance of the Port — Contraband Trade carried on from Fiume Page 314

Chapter XIII

Istria — Departure from Fiume — Enter the Istrian Peninsula, crossing the Monte Maggiore — The Bora — Encounter with Douaniers — Pisino — Dignano — Pola — Government and Police of the Istrian Towns — Antiquities of Pola — Amphitheatre, Temples, and Porta Aurea — Depopulation — Climate — Port of Pola, and Forts erecting for its military defence — Austrian Sailors — Return to Pisino — Portole — Difficulty about Horses — Capo dTstria — Town and Commerce — General Description of Istria — Agriculture, Climate, Products, Habits and Condition of the People p. 331

Chapter XIV

Trieste — Town — Port — Mole — Anchorage — Freedom of Trade — Lazarets — Quarantines in the Mediterranean — Conduct of Austria in regard to the Cholera — History and Description of Trieste — Population — Various Religious Congregations — Military Defences formed on the French Occupation of Ancona — Poles confined in the Castle — Remarks on the Republic of Cracow — Steam Navigation from Trieste — Coal in Dalmatia — Internal Government and Police of Trieste— Departure p. 361

Appendix

Some Account of the Saxon Mines, and of the Process of Amalgamation adopted at Freyberg p. CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

Chapter I

Principle op the Government. — Divisions of the Empire — Population, according to Numbers and Classes — Nature and Privileges of Nobility — Feudality — Its extent previous to 1773, and since — Urbarium — its establishment, provisions, and political effects Page 1

Chapter II

Laws of Property. — Their effect on the formation of Social Character — General Principles — Rules of Inheritance — Of Legitimate, Legitimated, Adopted, and Illegitimate Children — Pflichttheil. or portion of necessary Succession — Power of Testamentary Bequest, and of Disinheritance — Harmony of the Rules of Inheritance with the Principle of the Government — Entails — Their different kinds and restrictions . . p. 23

Chapter III

Tenures of Land — Noi'thern Provinces — Nature of Feudal Tenures and Services — Power and Burthens of the Lords — Protecting Policy of the Crown — Farms and Villages — General Observations — Southern Provinces — Abatement of Feudality — Tenants and Lessees — Charters and Government of Municipal Towns and Cities — Provision for the Poor, the Aged, and the Sick — Actual Condition of the People . . . p. CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter IV

Religion. — History of the Ecclesiastical System— Different recognised Forms of Faith — Supremacy of the Crown over all equally, including the Roman Catholic — General Toleration — Reforms of Joseph II. — Suppression and Regulation of Monasteries, and Visit of the Pope to Vienna — Number of Clergy of all Denominations — Roman Catholic Establishments — Supremacy of the Civil Power — Jus Placeti — Episcopal Nominations — Scheme of Ecclesiastical Government — Diocesan Consistories and Functionaries— Parochial Benefices — Shrines of Pilgrimage—Episcopal Seminaries — Duties of the Clergy — Ecclesiastical Revenues — Tithes — Monastic Orders — Regulations for their Government — Compulsion to active Duties — Subordination to the Secular Powers — Laws and Conditions affecting them — Religious Fund — Non-Romish Subjects — Laws for separate Sects — System of Church Government for all — Parochial Ministers, Seniors, Superintendents, and Consistories — Hebrew Synagogues and Greek Bishops — Singular Imperial Edicts — Concluding Remarks Page 73

Chapter V

Education. — Observations on the Education of Southern Europe, of France, and of non- Austrian Germany — Austrian System of Education — Its Objects, Principles, and absolute Uniformity under every circumstance— Regular Gradation of Schools, and of scholastic Superintendence — Regulations regarding non- Romanists — Nature ofthe Instruction — Popular Schools; their System and Government — Gymnasial Schools and Universities—Expenses of tbe Educational System — Distinct Institutions — Private Tutors and Private Academies — Ordinances of Francis II. — Number of Persons receiving Education — Inducements to Education — Nature and Effects of the " Poor Student" System in Germany — Its Disfavour in Austria— Contrast between the Austrian and other German Universities— Effects of Austrian Education on the intellectual and moral Character p. CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter VI

Criminal Jurisprudence. — State of Criminal Law a general Evidence of social Character — Austrian Code — Its mild Genius — Crimes, their Classification and Punishment — Misdemeanors, ditto — Constitution and Gradation of Tribunals — Nature of Proceedings, Appeals, and Supervisions — Rules of Evidence, and Privilege of Relations — Strandrecht, or Martial Law — Power given to Heads of Families — Moral Discipline — Indulgent Genius of the System, and its great Peculiarities — Quantum of Crime in different Provinces, and Remarks thereon — Concluding Observations on the Avhole subject . . Page 157

Chapter VII

Morals. — Liability to Error in estimating National Morality — Excellencies of the Austrian Moral Character — Whence produced — Early Training— Absence of certain Excitements to Vice — Nature of the. Civil Government— Defects of the Austrian Moral Character — Tendency to personal Indulgences — Tables of Illegitimate Births in Cities and Provinces, with Remarks — Effects of certain Impediments to Marriage, and of certain Provisions of Law — Institutions of Maternity and Orphan Asylums : their Organisation and Effects — Observance of Parental and Filial Duties, Avith Remarks on the Laws of Inheritance—Observance of the Conjugal Duties, and Remarks on the Laws of Marriage — Facility of Divorce among the Protestants, and its Effects— Concluding Observations . . p. 192

Chapter VIII

Civil Government. — Preliminary Observations — Legislation — Provincial Assemblies; their Composition and Functions in the German and Italian States : also of the Hungarian Diet. Legislative Edicts and Rescripts of the Sovereign — Executive Government. Nature and System of the principal Departments at Vienna — Civil Administrations in the Provinces — Graduated Organization of the System— Moral Peculiarities — Union of Education, Affections, and Interests in support of the State, explained — Personal Character of the Princes and of the Devol. i. b CONTENTS. XVIII positaries of Power— Number of Civil Servants and of Pen sioners—German Bureaucracy — Preparation of Statistical Tables • P»ge 215

Chapter IX

Public Police. — Its Organization— Expense, excellent Conduct, Unobtrusiveness, and Efficiency— Rules as to Foreigners at the Frontier and in the Interior— Secret Police. — Misconceptions generally entertained — Police of the Press.— General Principles— Censure on Native and Foreign Literature, and its Effects— Great indulgence as to Foreign Books and Journals — Difficulty experienced by Natives in obtaining permission to Travel P- 251

Chapter X

Army. — Various Character of its component Parts — Divisions of the Empire for Military Purposes — Rules for Levies in each, and Duration of Service — Numerical Strength — Military Code — Organization of a Regiment as to Officers, and Details of Regimental Service — Record of Conduct — Purchase of Commissions — Duties of Captain — General Character of Officers — Privates — Structure of Courts-martial — Punishments — Pay and Allowances — Comparison of Infantry and Cavalry — Rules as to Marriage — Pensions — Hospitals and Asylums — Reserve of Equipments in Store — Despatch of Levies — Military Force in 1814. — Navy. — Its Character and Extent — Port of Pola p. 274

Chapter XI

Finances. — Public Debt and Currency — Origin and Character of the Debt — History of the Paper Currency — Finance Patent of 1811 — Financial Reform of 1816— Bank of Vienna — Plan for Reduction of the floating Paper, and its success — Debt bearing Interest — Old and New Debt — Amount of both — Sinking Fund — Amount of actual liability of the Government — Existing Currency both Paper and Metallic — Circulation of the Bank, and its connexion with the Government . . . . p. CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XII

Finances continued — Actual Income and Expenditure — Details of both — Various Branches of Income — Direct Taxes — Land-tax — Its History — Cadaster — House-tax — Tax on Trades and Professions — Personal Tax — Tax on Inheritances, &c. — Mode of Collection — Indirect Taxes — Tax on Consumable Articles— Customs — Observations on Contraband — Other Items of indirect Taxation Page 323

Chapter XIII

Finances concluded — Monopolies — Gunpowder — Tobacco — Salt — Domains — Mines — Tables of Gold and Silver produced — Extraction of Gold at Buckstein, Mebadia, &c. — Quantity of Gold produced now and at former Periods — Expenses of Production, and Accounts of the Mining Department — Table of all Metals produced in tbe Empire — Revenues of Hungary, and Observations thereon p. 345

Chapter XIV

Internal and Foreign Trade. — Natural Resources of Austria — Value of Exports and Imports, with Observations — Products and Trade of Hungary, &c. — Chief Articles of Export — Wool — Tobacco — Silk — Obstacles to Foreign Trade — Fluctuation of Duties, and Financial Errors — Defensive System adopted by Neighbouring States — Physical Difficulties of Internal Communication — Geographical Notices — Rivers — Projected Kailroads— Uncommercial Character of the Hungarians — Steam Navigation of the Danube . . p. 360

Chapter XV

Internal Policy. — Austria considered with reference to her Internal Condition —Progress of the Crown in establishing the Monarchical Principle — Its Policy in sustaining that Principle, and rendering it Popular— Opposite Conduct of Austria and France, in the reduction of Feudality — Points of Difficulty with which the Government has to contend — Necessity of Vigilance in the Correction of Abuses while the Press is controlled — b CONTENTS. XX Point of Weakness in the Body of the Empire — Diversities of Nationality — Bohemia, Moravia, and Gallicia — Their Political Condition — Hungary : its Constitution and Social State — The Lombardo -Venetian Kingdom — The Character of its Government — Its Condition and Prospects .... Page 384

Chapter XVI

Foreign Policy. — Austria considered. Avith reference to her Foreign Relations — Her great desire for Peace — Austrian Policy towards Italy — Conflicts with France for Ascendancy in the smaller States — Military Occupation of Countries threatened with Popular Revolution — Austrian Policy towards Germany — Formation and present State of the Germanic Confederation — Difficulties experienced by the Congress of Vienna — Its Views for a different Organization of Germany — The Preservation of the Kingdom of Saxony by its sudden Dissolution — Rivalship of Prussia and Austria — Prussian Custom-House Confederation — Austrian Policy towards Russia and Turkey — History of the establishment of Russian Ascendancy in the Northern Provinces of Turkey, and at the Mouth of the Danube — Political Condition of Moldavia, Wallachia, Bulgaria, and Servia — Anxiety of Austria — Her endeavours to oppose Russia by her Diplomacy at Constantinople and Athens — The Conduct of England, and Apprehension of Austria as to the Maritime Powers — Reflections on the Dangers with which England is threatened by a further advance of Russia towards the Mediterranean — And on the Policy by which those Dangers may be averted .... p. NARRATIVE, 8ec. 8sC

Chapter I

Leave Dresden — Saxon Switzerland — Bastey — Schandau — Probischer Thor — Elbe — Enter Bohemia — Contrast of Appearance — Arbesau — Battle of Culm — Teplitz — Baths — Environs — Mode of Life — King of Prussia — Von Humboldt. Accompanied by my brother *, I made, during the years 1834, 1835, and 1836, an extensive tour in various countries of Europe. We visited together the principal cities and universities of Germany ; passed one Avinter in Hungary ; and having quitted, for a time, the Austrian States, in order to make a journey through Greece and parts of Turkey, Ave returned to them again by the steam-navigation from the Black Sea up the Danube as far as Vukovar, in Slavonia, whence Ave traversed the most interesting portion of that little-knoAvn but very remarkable district termed the Austrian Military Frontier.

Of the personal narrative connected Avith this tour, such extracts only are noAV submitted to the public as relate to the German provinces of the Austrian em- * The Rev. T. S. Turnbull, F.R.S., F.G.S., Fellow of Caius College, Cambridge. VOL. I. B [CH. 2 AUSTRIA. pire. As the more important part of this Avork Avill be devoted to the delineation of the government in its various branches, and its effects on the condition of the people within these provinces, it appears desirable first to state briefly the results of such local and per sonal observations as may occur to the traveller in passing through them. After admiring at Berlin the splendid public monuments, the galleries and museums and institu tions for the advancement of art and science, their excellent order, their entire publicity, and the genius of classic taste and feeling which appears to pervade that Athens of the north — we passed some time at Dresden, amid treasures of art far superior in intrin sic excellence to those of the Prussian capital, but so secluded from general vieAv as to be valueless to the native public ; and so defective in arrangement, so neglected in condition, as almost to excite pain instead of pleasure.

It Avas from Saxony that, on this occasion, we passed into the Austrian States. In quitting Dresden for the Bohemian frontier, we de viated from the direct road in order to explore that remarkable tract of country, Avhich, extending to the south of that city for about seventy English miles along the banks of the Elbe, and terminating within the confines of Bohemia, has acquired the appellation of the " Saxon SAvitzerland."' The designation is by no means happy. It conveys an idea of grandeur and sublimity utterly at variance with the real cha- >] 3 SAXON SWITZERLAND. racter of the scenery. The Saxon SAvitzerland charms rather by the minuteness than the magnitude of the objects it presents. Here are none of the older rocks ; no mountain-heights rising more than eighteen hundred feet above the level ofthe ocean, or fifteen hundred above that of the Elbe.

It is an assemblage of scenic forms the most strange and fantastic, varying at every step, and of such compara tively small dimensions as to be ever within the reach of easy contemplation. The stranger passing from Chamouni to Schandau might imagine he had quitted the region of the giants for that of the fairies ; and he might experience a peculiar species of enjoyment in surveying, as it Avere on a beautiful model, all those disruptions and contortions of mountain scenery, Avhich the human eye may seek in vain to trace amid the stupendous masses of the Alps. The surface of the Saxon Switzerland is, Avith the exception of the basalt Avhich caps the hill called the Greater Winterberg, and of a little syenite and granite which crop here and there, wholly of neAV green sandstone. Its stratification is everywhere horizontal ; and where its sides are exposed, as along the cliffs Avhich bound the rivers and the valleys, the rock is seen to be so split perpendicularly into separate and detached piles, as to give it the appearance in form, though not in colour, of an assemblage of upright basaltic columns.

As earthquakes have occurred, connected Avith the protrusion ofthe volcanic and granitic matter or othenvise, the structure of the b2 [CH. 4 AUSTRIA. rock has caused its fractures to assume a character different from that Avhich is observed amid the disturbances of the older and harder formations, and Avhich is very favourable to picturesque effect. Chasms, too narroAV to receive the name of valleys, Avind along for miles between Avails of rock several hundred feet in height ; sometimes quite perpendicular ; sometimes very slightly inclined and thickly covered with wood. High thin perpendicular masses shoot up their heads from the depth beloAV, quite detached from each other, yet so near as to admit of bridges and galleries being throAvn across, Avhich seem to hang almost self-supported in the dizzy height.

The narrow chasms are divided from each other by intervening ridges more narrow than them selves. Often does the traveller walk, as it were, on a pier of stone, or the high thin summit of a Avail, probably not fifty, sometimes not twenty, feet in Avidth ; shrinking, on either side, from the glance into the deep perpendicular abyss ; until he reach at length some small bluff promontory at the end, Avhich overhangs the confluence of the vales below. The small town of Schandau is situated on the Elbe, nearly in the centre of this singular district, which may extend eight or nine miles above and beloAV it. Intending to see the principal points of view Avhich are noted for their beauty, and all of which may be seen in tAvo or three days, Ave had the opportunity of vieAving some portion of them in our Way from Dresden to Schandau, Avhere Ave fixed our '■] VALLEY OF OTTERWALDE. 5 temporary abode.

It is at the romantic village of Lohmen, about ten English miles to the south of Dresden, that the " Switzerland " commences. After a short repose here, in the rose-garden of the little country inn, rendered more agreeable by the melodies of two female harpers seated Avithin a bower, Ave proceeded about three miles farther, until at a particular point Ave left the carriage, to proceed on foot, Avith a guide, by the valley of Otterwalde, to the " Bastey," Avhile the carriage was to proceed by the ordinary road. The valley of Ottenvalde is one of those remarkable chasms Avith Avhich this countiy abounds. We descended into it by a long steep flight of steps rudely cut in the stone, and folloAved its course for probably a couple of miles. Often did we find it not more than forty feet in Avidth, and bounded by sides of Avail from one to three hundred feet high, generally almost perpendicular.

The surface of these Avails of stone was rugged and broken, presenting, as I before observed, the appearance of fractured columns ; and it Avas curious to observe, in Avhat might appear the fractures of these columns — and Avhich Avere, in fact, interstices of the horizontal strata — trees of the fir tribe groAving out, for some short distance, horizontally from the rock, and thence bending, at a right angle, to shoot their lofty stems perpendicularly upAvards. The ground beloAV Avas strewed Avith masses of stone which had fallen from the cliffs ; and sometimes in this deep glen might be seen a fragment of rock shaped almost like an in- [CH. 6 AUSTRIA. verted pyramid, which every breeze might seem to shake, and Avhich yet the audacity of man, propping up the top-heavy projection Avith some rude masonry, had converted into a human dAvelling.

We had descended into the valley of OtterAvalde by flights of steps cut in the rock ; we left it by a natural ascent, and still continued to climb until we reached the high elevation on Avhich stands the " Bastey." Here is an inn, built on a singular and pleasing spot, from which the eye looks doAvn upon the Elbe immediately beloAV, from a perpendicular height of more than six hundred feet. All around, the fractured rock forms groups of points and narrow causeways, often con nected together by Avooden galleries and staircases and bridges ; and among these, one is pointed out as having been the stronghold of a noted band of robbers of the Elbe, accessible only to themselves by means of moveable ladders, and from which they Avere ultimately dislodged in the year 1443, by the starvation resulting from a rigorous blockade.