Vienna and the Austrians, with some account of a journey through Swabia, Bavaria, the Tyrol, and the Salzbourg

Front matter

VIENNA AND THE AUSTRIANS VOL. I LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. I UTAH ■ '•■ ,,,,.. J] , KW1IGMTS OF TIIIIIK GOlURKhs IF1LEECF-. ¥1 E N NA AMD THE AUSTRIANS, VOL. 1. ADOTNG- E.irSJAlTESS: Id VB OI, JS1HCHIAJK.D) BJE,WTJUKlr, NKW JitJKlLjlWlSTffiN STJEKJET, fmlbKsJher jim GWIimajiy to Her Majesty. 18 3 7. VIENNA AND THE AUSTRIANS WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY THROUGH SWABIA, BAVARIA, THE TYROL, AND THE SALZBOURG. BY FRANCES TROLLOPE, AUTHOR OF " PARIS AND THE PARISIANS," " THE VICAR OF WREXH1LL,' " DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE AMERICANS," &C. " Jedirai: J'etais la : telle chose m'avint." — La Fontaine. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, ■Publi^cr tit ©rUtnart) to Sicv fiflaJMftD. 1838.

Preface

. The following pages contain the result of observations made during a Year spent in Southern Germany, the greater portion of which was passed at Vienna. In what I have said of Austria, I have sought only to record what I have seen ; with her foreign policy I have nothing to do : it makes no part of my subject, nor has it in any degree divided the attention and study I wished to bestow on the simple machinery of her government, and its effect upon her own people. Yet although the doing this might seem to be an easy task, inasmuch as carefully noting what has been seen or heard appears to demand little besides attention, I have been aware of considerable VI

PREFACE.

. difficulty in the performance of it. This difficulty, indeed, has arisen solely from my being conscious, as I wrote, of the remarkable discrepancy between the statements which truth compelled me to give, and the previously received views which I knew to prevail respecting Austria. Most truly do I be lieve, however, that thousands who have been taught to hate the name of this (essentially) un known country, were they honestly to pursue the same course that I have done, would arrive at the same conclusions ; namely, that, whatever may be the effect of Austrian power and legislation else where, it produces on the children of her own bosom exactly the benign influence which might be expected from the equable administration of very mild laws, and a most paternal care bestowed on a race singularly calculated to prosper under it, and to hail the tranquil blessings it ensures with gratitude, fidelity, and love.

I have given my testimony on this subject with equal sincerity and boldness ; and I am not greatly at a loss to divine what sort of reception such testimony is likely to meet in many quarters. This Consideration, however, was not likely to check the pen of one whose statements have, ere now, been

PREFACE.

. VII challenged as false or exaggerated when they first met the eye of ignorance and prejudice, but sub sequently acknowledged to be true, in consequence of the improved knowledge which followed upon better acquaintance with the facts brought under consideration. Since my return from Vienna, I have more than once seen it stated in print that I was about to publish the life of Francis the First of Austria. To write the life of Francis of Austria, would in fact be writing the history of Europe during the period that he reigned ; and a more stirring epoch, or one more sure to excite universal interest by its details, could not be selected by the historian. Little, however, can those know of the more intimately biographical parts of this fine subject, who suppose that any one foreign to the land in which Francis reigned, or personally a stranger to himself, could venture to become the chronicler of his life.

The eight months I passed in Vienna sufficed to give me just such an insight into the history and character of this admirable man, public and private, foreign and domestic, political and individual, as might make me feel (had indeed such a project ever entered my head) that I was as inca-

PREFACE.

. pable of producing such a work myself, as of un derrating its value if ably performed by another. My task has been one of much less importance, yet, nevertheless, such as to have excited the most anxious wish to fulfil it fearlessly and honestly. Hadley, January 29th, 1838. CONTENTS 01 THE FIRST VOLUME.

Letter I

Pleasures of Travelling. — Delight of setting off. — Vienna the principal object of the present Excursion. — Halt at Paris. — Preparations for the Three Days. — Meaux. — Chateau-Thierry. — Metz. — Epernay. — Strasbourg. . . . Page I

Letter II

Scenery near Steinbach. — Vaihingen and its Castle. — Different Modes of Travelling. — Arrival at Stuttgart. — Scarcity of private Lodgings. — Hotel the First and Hotel the Second. — Comforts of the Waldhom. — King of Naples — Dannecker. — Bust of Schiller. — Venus. — Palace of the King. — Rosenstein. — Cannstadt. — Baths. — Stuttgart as a Residence. — Picturesque Work on Germany. — Old Castle. ...... 8

Letter III

Centrical Position of Stuttgart. — View from the Rothenberg. — Chapel of Queen Catherine. — Dannecker's St. John. — Professor Schwab. — Maison de Chasse. — La Solitude. — Rural Enjoyment. — Krankenhaus. — Moonlight Walk among the Orange-trees. — Sketch of Dannecker. — Farewell. . . . .26 CONTENTS. X

Letter VII

Augsburg. — Fresco Paintings.— Fine Fountains. — Platz Maxi milian. — Hall of the Confession. — Catholic Cathedral. — Prevailing display of Roman Catholic feeling. — Church of St. Ulric and St. Afra. — General Splendour of the Augsburg Churches. — Market Day. — Costumes. — Goitre. — Sketch. — Pictures for Sale. — City Gallery.— Hans Holbein.— History of St. Paul.— The Golden Hall. — Public Gardens. — Threatened Cholera. . CONTENTS. XI

Letter VIII

Ominous farewell of the Augsburg Landlord. — Plain of Lands berg. — Late Arrival. — Night Adventure. — Mysterious Supper. — Early Mass — Approach to the Mountains Tyrolian Breakfasts. — Rough Travelling. — Entrance of the Tyrol. — Partenkirch. — Mi neral Springs. — Difficulty of finding shelter. — Tyrolian Scenery. — Great Beauty. — Bad Accommodation. — Pretty Fences. — Beautiful Turf. — Mitten waid. — Manufactory of Fiddles. — Seefeld and its Miracle. — Descent to Zerl. . . . Page 9.5

Letter IX

Innspruck. — The Hof-kirch. — Tomb of Maximilian. — Effects of Mountain Air. — The River Inn, its Bridge and its Ferry. — The Dom-kirch. — Table d'Hote. — English Travellers. — Alpine Strawberries. — Opera. — Thunder Storm. — Assumption of the Vir gin. — Magnificent Mass. — Residence. — Chamois Hunters. — Com fortable Hotel. — The Balcony. . . . 113

Letter X

Scenery between Innspruck and Schwatz. — Delicate Herbage. — Mode of drying the Hay and Corn. — Halle. — Saline Works. — Schwatz. — Thunder Storm. — Character of the Landscapes between Schwatz and St. John's. — The river Achen. — Mode of Travel ling. — Strub Pass. — Marcus Sittacus. — Andre Hofer. — Pastoral Ball. — Road-side Rambles. — Arrival at Salzbourg. — Difficulty of finding Rooms. — The Golden Lion. — Approach to Salzbourg. — The Castle. ...... CONTENTS.

Letter XI

Region called " The Salzbourg."— Antiquities of the Town.— Early Christian Memorials.— St. Maximus. — St. Rupert's Cathe dral. — Benedictine Convent. — Church of St. Marguerite. — The Ce metery.—Splendid Monuments. — Tomb of Michael Haydn. — A Mason and his Seven Wives. . . • Page 1*3

Letter XII

The Cathedral of St. Peter at Salzbourg.— Greek and Gothic Churches. — The Castle — Gertrude and her Gossip. — Prince Fre deric of Schwarzenberg, the Primate of Austria. — Gertrude's Golden Cap. — Benedictine Convent. — Father Gregorius. — Austrian Censure. . . . . . ■ .152

Letter XX

Route from Munich to Ratisbon. — Starvation. — Landshut — Damp Sheets. — Ratisbon. — The Danube.— The Dom-kirch. — Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis. — Riding School. — St. Emmeran. — Scottish Convent. — Hotel de Ville. — Germanic Diet. — Dun geons. — The Valhalla Examination of the " Ordinari." . CONTENTS. XIV

Letter XXI

Departure from Ratisbon by the Danube. — Arrangements for the Voyage. — Manner of navigating the Vessel. — Approach to the Valhalla. — Scenery. — Sinuosity of the River — Wet Landing at Straubing. — Landlord's Legend of Agnes Bernauer. . Page 242

Letter XXII

Change of Scene. — Imprisonment. — A Gleam of Sunshine. — Deggendorf. — Pleintling. — Dismal Forebodings. — Affray at the Water Edge. — Vilshofen. — River Scenery. — Passau. — Rain again. — Engelharzell. — Its Hotel. — Chapel of the Rock. — Custom House. — — Another Day on the River. — Improving Scenery. — Aschau. — Linz. — Comfortable Quarters. — Gay aspect of the City. — Summons from the Police. — Magnificent Views. — Castle of Prince Maximi lian. — The Rapids. — Visitation of Saints. — The Devil's Wall. — Morbach. — Durenstein. — Kloster Neuberg. — Vienna. . 251

Letter XXIII

Difficulty of getting Lodgings. — Appearance and Position of Vienna. — Cleanness of the Streets. — St. Stephen's. . 279

Letter XXIV

Church of St. Augustine. — Canova's Monument to the Arch duchess Christina. — Canova's Theseus. — The Imperial Residence. — Apartments of the Empress-Mother. — Isis by Canova. — Return of the Court from Prague. — Musical Festival in the Volks garten. ..... .288

Letter XXIX

Country Excursions. — Spinnerinn am Kreutz Waggons. — Modling. — Knights Templars. — Domain of the Prince of Liechten stein. — The Cradle of Austria. — Briel. — Multitudes of Castles. — Schloss Liechtenstein — Lachsenburg Gardens. — The Ritterbourg. — Baden. — Valley of Ste. Helena. — Heiligen Kreutz. — Sittendorf. — Beautiful Woodland Walk. — Wildock. — Johannistein. . 337

Letter XXX

Principal Buildings of Vienna. — Court end of the Town. — Public Edifices. — Palaces of the Nobility — The Stock im Eisen. — Elegant Society. — Distinctions difficult of comprehension to Strangers. CONTENTS.

Letter XXXI

Departure of Summer. — Snow. — Sawing Wood. — Opera — Dis appointment. — Mademoiselle Lowe. — Strauss and Lanner. — John Cramer. — Monody to Malibran. — Jews' Synagogue. — Madame Rettich in Desdemona.— Othello. . . Page 364

Letter XXXII

All Saints' Day. — Music inferior to that of Innspruck. — Arch bishop. — Poor Souls' Day. — Royal Catacombs. — Mourning for the late Emperor.— Austrian Loyalty. . . . EMBELLISHMENTS VOL. I. Installation of Knights of the Golden Fleece . Frontispiece. Doing Business .... Viynette Title. Dannecker, the Sculptor . . . to face p. 14 The Bride of Ehingen . . . „ 60 Market at Augsburg . . . ,,86 Tyrolese Peasants . . . „ 138 Carinthians under the Walls of Vienna . . . ,, 318 Camp of Bohemian Carters . „ 338 Madame Rettich as Desdemona . . . „ 376 VOL II, La Creme .... Frontispiece. The Court going to Chapel . . . Vignette Title. November Fair in the Hoher Markt . . toface p. 6 The Catacombs under St. Stephen's Church . . „ 76 A Condemned Murderer in his Prison * . ,,172 VIENNA AND THE AUSTRIANS.

Letter I

Pleasures of Travelling. — Delight of setting off. — Vienna the principal object of the present Excursion. — Halt at Paris. — Preparations for the Three Days. — Meaux. — Chateau- Thierry. — Metz — Epernay. — Strasbourg. Strasbourg, 29th July, 1836. Once more, my dear friend, we are on the wing, or rather on the wheel — not of torture, however, for nothing in this world of woe can, in my opinion, be farther removed from suffering than our present occupation. There certainly is in the blood of our race a very decided propensity to locomotion ; for though we all cordially love our home, our English home, and have ever, after comparing it with other resting-places, declared without a dissentient voice that none can equal it, yet the sight of a map as we sit in our chimney-corner sets us all madding again, and through each successive winter night our lengthening talk goes on of mountains and valleys yet unseen, the fever becoming stronger as VOL. I. B TRAVELLING. the season advances, till just when our own garden is full of flowers, and our native land in her most becoming full-dress, we only take time enough to give such a look at her as may enable us to make comparisons, and off we are again like a parcel of butterflies, to whom no field, however flowery, seems fair enough, as long as there is yet another to be seen.

I can well imagine, that to those constituted without this wandering inclination, such pertinacity of movement must appear symptomatic of a very pitiable spirit of unrest ; and to such it were vain to expatiate on the joys it brings. If it be mad ness, there is indeed a luxury in being mad which none but madmen know. — But to that other portion of the human race, who cannot hear of a rock without longing to stand on its pinnacle, of a forest without losing themselves in fancy amidst its recesses, or of a river without pining to find them selves borne on its stranger wave, — to such the dear delight of arranging a carte du voyage, pulling forth travelling trunks, flying after passports, and finally, of starting off to cross the narrow sea that vainly strives to keep us at home, will be com pletely intelligible.

On the present occasion, besides all the joys of rocks and rivers, forests and mountains, we have a great ulterior object in contemplation distinct from all these, though stationed in the midst of them, — namely, Vienna. To pass a winter in the ANNIVERSARY OF THE THREE DAYS. 3 capital of Austria, is the very heart of our enterprise, though the remaining weeks of summer, and the sunny autumn by which we hope to arrive at it, are not forgotten in our agreeable speculations, and we mean to leave as little unseen in our course as possible, let the turnings and windings such a purpose may lead to be as numerous as they may. Our short halt at Paris was marked by two events, — namely, the decision of the king not to attend the review which has hitherto made part of the annual celebration of the last revolution, and the death of Armand Carrel in a political duel.

The first of these caused great speculation, some surprise, and a little disappointment ; but the peaceable part of the public evidently approves the caution which has decided that the chief magistrate shall not go forth to be shot at. All other preparations for the fete were proceeding on a very extensive scale, and all Paris seemed ready to eat, drink, dance, and sing, for three days without ceasing. The beautiful arch at the Barriere de 1'Etoile is to be fully opened to public inspection for the first time on this occasion. It was my sixth visit to Paris since this noble entrance to " La Belle Ville" was begun, and for the first time I saw it disembarrassed of its almost worn-out scaffolding. All that remained to be revealed in honour of the fete were the relievo sculptures, and over these canvass veils were still suspended when I passed it to pay a visit at St. Germain's on the 25th. b ARMAND CARREL.

On the 26th we took our departure from the capital of " La Grande Nation," through avenues of poles intended to support on the morrow myriads of tri-coloured banners, and under orchestras from which, in a few hours, were to resound all such national airs as might be thought most likely to please the gay people who can dance and sing, " Whatever planet rise." The wretched death of the unfortunate Carrel produced probably a more general feeling of regret than would have been occasioned by that of any other of his party. As a proof indeed that this sentiment was not confined to one side only, it may be cited that Chateaubriand and Bercmger both attended his funeral. " The vine-covered hills and gay valleys of France' never looked brighter or lovelier than during the days and nights through which we drove across them to reach Strasbourg.

The moon was at the full ; and though it must be confessed that the sun was at the full also, the heavy rain which had fallen the night before we left Paris was so favourable to us that of dust there was none, at least for the first twenty-four hours : had it been otherwise, the fresh breeze, that we found so de licious would have come to us loaded with any thing but perfume. The country immediately round Meaux is very ROUTE TO STRASBOURG. 5 beautiful ; but we had only time to look at the outside of Bossuet's church. Chateau Thierry, too, with its early reminiscences of La Fontaine, who was born there, might have well rewarded a longer stay ; but we passed a pleasant hour in climbing to its old castle, and looking down upon the splendid landscape it commands. The descent to Metz is magnificent, and the painted glass of its fine cathedral deserving a longer de scription than I have time to give.

We drank champagne at Epernay by the light of the moon, prayed for fostering showers and ripening suns upon its vineyards, admired the dark forest crested Vosges with their frontier fortresses frowning against the clear sky, and arrived by seven o'clock in the morning at this place. " La Maison Rouge," to which like all the world we first addressed our selves, was too full to receive us ; but we find our selves very decently comfortable at the Hotel de la Ville de Metz. We now mean to give up this rapid mode of tra velling, as only good for the conveyance of the body from one spot of earth to another when the mind is not particularly anxious to take part in the business; we have therefore secured a voiturier, who has en gaged to take us to Stuttgart, a distance of seventy seven English miles, in two days, leaving us power to stop when and where we please, — an agreement indispensably necessary to the comfort of every such arrangement.

STRASBOURG. We have been hearing high mass performed in the cathedral in honour of the day — the last of the im mortal three. The organ is a most sweet one, and the service extremely well performed. It was the first Catholic church my maid had ever entered, and her astonishment appeared unbounded. The novel splendour seemed to dazzle her, and her comprehension altogether was completely puzzled. " What is it all for ? What does it all mean?" she exclaimed repeatedly; and it was not without some difficulty that I persuaded her, what she saw and heard was only the ordinary service of the church. After leaving the cathedral we walked about the town, which, like every other in France at that day and hour, was full of holiday-folks, assembled from all the country round to do honour to the festival, or at any rate to enjoy one more " summer's day of indolence and mirth."

We had the satisfaction of seeing the gay and well-dressed garrison returning from a review, and a prodigious show of well-appointed artillery in their train. But of all the doings in commemoration of this high solemnity, I certainly think we witnessed the most extraordinary before we returned to our hotel ; and though I stood to watch it in common with many others till my eyes ached, there was a degree of terror in the spectacle which I shall never remember without shuddering. Two men who had under- STRASBOURG. taken to illuminate this spire of spires having mounted, like other human beings, as high as the ordinary means of ascent would permit, completed their am bitious purpose by clinging like bats to the outside of that tremendous pinnacle, till one of them finally reached the cross on the top of it.

Then, to my unspeakable horror, — and not to mine only, for an audible shudder ran through the score of persons standing near me, — he threw one leg across the trans verse bar of it, and so remained till he had affixed his lampions to its summit. Having waited to see this extraordinary feat completed, we returned to our hotel, where we are still awaiting our voiture. And now farewell till I can tell you that we are in Germany. ROUTE FROM STRASBOURG 8

Letter II

Scenery near Steinbach. — Vaihingen and its Castle Different Modes of Travelling. — Arrival at Stuttgart. — Scarcity of private Lodgings. — Hotel the First and Hotel the Second. — Comforts of the Waldhorn. — King of Naples. — Dannecker. — Bust of Schiller. — Venus. — Palace of the King. — Rosentein. — Cannstadt — Baths. — Stuttgart as a Residence. — Picturesque Work on Germany. — Old Castle. Stuttgart, 1st August, 1836. Half-way across the bridge between Strasbourg and Kehl, we left the wide domain of King Louis- Philippe and entered the Grand Duchy of Baden. The Rhine is so noble and natural a frontier, that it is pity it should ever be violated. My recollections of Baden-Baden came so very strongly upon me as I found myself in the well remembered road which in three or four hours would have led me to it, that if at the moment my own inclination had been my sole guide, I do greatly suspect I should have found all the temptations which new scenes could offer unable to contend against the longing I have to visit it again.

But as it was, we soon turned from the enticing road, and drove on to Rastadt (27 miles), where we slept. TO STUTTGART. 9 At five o'clock on the following morning we were again en route for Stuttgart, but decided against taking the usual way, through Carlsruhe ; some advantage in distance and much in scenery being gained by going through Steinbach and Vaihingen. The road, too, is as good as if Mr. M'Adam had himself presided at the making it, and the views are delightful. For several miles this route winds among the hills, which though not extremely lofty, are sufficiently bold in outline to be beautiful ; and the little valleys, or rather hollows, into which the eye penetrates between them, are dark and misty enough to excite the imagination of the fanciful traveller, — the only order of mortals, by the bye, at all able to enjoy this species of scenery.

It was, in short, just the road to entice one to walk till one could walk no more ; and the knowing, moreover, that the dark undulations around us were actually a part of the wild Schwartzwold, added not a little to their charm. Altogether, we enjoyed this part of our expedition exceedingly, going leisurely over the ground, and dividing a journey of fifty English miles into two days, — thus yielding to the temptation of stealing one more for the journey than we intended. We breakfasted at Steinbach in a very primitive manner for about half a franc apiece, and then proceeded— the road often running quite close to the river Ens — to Vaihingen, a little town on the frontier of Wurtemberg, formerly of considerable importance as a defence, but now as bygone-looking ROUTE FROM STRASBOURG a place as I ever entered.

We reached it about four o'clock, and having ordered what we called dinner, but what our host of the " Wild Man " insisted upon denominating supper, we all sallied forth to mount to the old Schloss while it was preparing. This desolate-looking edifice stands proudly enough, high and alone above the town, with the river Ens washing the foot of the rocky elevation on which it is placed. It must once have been all that a baron of the good old time of snatching and holding could desire, but now its sole inhabitants are an old woman and her cats. Oddly enough, this withered governor of the crumbling fortress has chosen the upper story of the tower for her own peculiar dwell ing-place, and having spied us thence as we ascended towards her ramparts, she came down, and met us under the ruinous archway, keys in hand, ready to open to us the most secret recesses of her strong hold.

There was little, however, to see from her aerial nest : the view of the little valley, and the vineyards on its sides, is pretty enough, but seen quite as well from the ruinous old walls below. *■ We were again in the carriage by five o'clock the next morning. This you will confess requires some activity, and deserves to be called early rising ; but the fact is, that nothing can be done well in this mode of travelling without it. Were we to set off like fine ladies and gentlemen at about an hour be- TO STUTTGART. fore noon, where should we find the time necessary for our long lounging examinations of everything that awakens our curiosity as we pass along ? I have never yet tried travelling in what is em phatically called, good style ; which means, I believe, posting as fast as four horses can carry you from city to city, with a galloping courier in the van to prevent an instant's delay on the way.

The certainty of always finding rooms and refreshment ready on arriving at your gite, must, I confess, be extremely agreeable ; but even for this I would not consent to give up the dear delight of standing on a mountain's top, or dipping my hands, when the fancy took me, in a crystal spring, or pausing for a delicious moment in some cool lovely nook which Nature seems to keep sacred to herself, or many other of those rude road side enjoyments which belong to the humble tra vellers en voiture. It is but fair to confess, however, that this mode of getting along could only be en joyed by a party in good health, accustomed to active exertion, and not greatly afraid of fatigue : for were it used merely as a means of travelling from town to town without any wish of lingering on the way, it would be felt as intolerably tedious.

We reached Stuttgart, the beautiful capital of the kingdom of Wurtemberg, yesterday morning (31st), and drove to an hotel, intending however to stay there but a few hours, our purpose being to take STUTTGART. private lodgings for a week. By means of the ever ready German kindness which converts almost every one of whom you make an inquiry in the street into an active ally, we soon succeeded in finding an office at which every lodging in the town is registered, and in pursuance of the information received there, we proceeded to see a set of apartments which, though by no means very superb, would have answered our purpose perfectly, but for these we were asked a rent of about seven pounds a week. This was greatly more than we intended to give, and T. returned to the office to obtain an address to others : but being answered by the person who kept it that the price was by no means extravagant, and that we should find none cheaper, we decided upon somewhat shortening our stay, and remaining for three or four days at the hotel.

The inn to which we had been driven was the Konig von Wurtemberg, and to this we returned after our fruitless search, intending there to remain ; but though the house is large and well fitted up, we neither liked our apartments nor the attendance we received, and speedily decided upon seeking another. These deficiencies may, perhaps, have been owing to the fact that his Majesty the King of Naples, who is on his way to Paris, had honoured the house by his presence, and the whole household appeared too much occupied by their illustrious guest to attend to anything else. T. with his usual activity, soon found excellent STUTTGART. rooms for us at the Waldhorn, whence I now write ; and I really think it is one of the most completely comfortable hotels I ever entered. The best rooms, as is usual here, are up two pair of stairs, — " an upper chamber swept and garnished" being, as of yore, the place of honour; but they are large, airy, and agreeable in no common degree.

An additional advantage is, that M. Albisser, the obliging landlord, speaks both English and French, and is equally able and willing to furnish his guests with every possible assistance in pursuit of all that wanderers wish to see. There is, moreover, an excellent gar den, and an ever-ready open carriage for the use of those who wish to enjoy the beautiful environs of the town. In short, we are so comfortable, that we are greatly disposed to rejoice at having failed in our pursuit of lodgings, and also that the King of Naples chanced (to use the expression of our host) to be " in the King of Wurtemberg." When passing this King of Wurtemberg in the course of the afternoon of yesterday, we witnessed the departure of its royal guest. Nothing could be much less ostentatious or less stately than the Neapolitan monarch's mode of travelling : three carriages, containing himself and his suite, with boxes, trunks, and packages of all sorts and sizes, most unceremoniously suspended about them all, made up the cortege.

One of the first objects to be sought on arriving STUTTGART. at Stuttgart must, I imagine, to all the world be the atelier of Dannecker. Of his fame, in common with everybody else, I have heard much, but of his works I had only seen that perfection of marble loveliness, the Ariadne in Mr. Batemann's collection at Francfort. This, however, is fully enough to make a visit to its author an event of no small importance. We pronounced his name, and his residence was immediately pointed out to us, and he received us with the simple frankness of a great man who is accustomed to the homage of all who approach the spot where he resides. He has retained around him but few of the higher specimens of his sublime and most original genius; but there is one before which he himself seems to bow as his chef-d'œuvre, and though he is surrounded by modelled sketches of his most poetically inspired productions, and more than one marble triumph of his chisel, it is to this that he turns again and again with a satisfaction so genuine, and so simply expressed, that it is impossible not to render him, and most cordially too, the sympathy he thus ingenuously demands.