The Great Sahara: Wanderings south of the Atlas Mountains. With maps and illustrations

Front matter

OASIS OF EL KANTARA, THE GATE OF THE SAHARA. THE GREAT SAHARA: WANDERINGS SOUTH OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS. By H. B. TEI STEAM, M. A., F.L.S., &c, MASTER OF GREATHAM HOSPITAL, AND DOMESTIC CHAPLAIN TO THE EARL OF DONOUGHMORE. Marabout of Barryan (SHitlj paps anb illustrations. LONDON: JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 1860. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON: PAINTED Bl W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STKCb.T, AND CHARING i ROSS, TO MRS. BURDON (OF CASTLE EDEN), flic fabg, FIKM IN FRIENDSHIP, WHO SPED MY PARTING AND WELCOMED MY RETURNING STEPS. THESE NOTES ARE DEDICATED. \A

Preface

. Various circumstances had induced me to select Algiers as a winter residence, when compelled by ill health to quit my northern home. Egypt had been recommended, but the cost and distance forbade it. Malta and Malaga possessed but few attractions for one whose favourite recreation was natural history. Algiers presented the advantages of easy access from Marseilles, of French conveniences, and of a climate whicli, if inferior to that of Egypt, yet certainly is more equable in spring than any to be found on the northern shores of the Mediterranean. With strength, by God's blessing, rapidly recruited, many excursions were made into the interior ; and as spring advanced, these on two occasions were pushed beyond the Atlas into the Northern Sahara. Here an atmosphere bright, dry, and invigorating convinced me that I had found the true sanatorium for any one sufficiently convalescent to dispense with the luxuries of city life.

From the officers of the French outposts, among whom I would venture gratefully to name General Gastu, MM. le Capitaine Vin^on and le Capitaine Dastugue, both " du Genie," I received unbounded hospitality, and through them was enabled to acquire the friendship of several nomad • chiefs ; while a very cursory survey promised abundant objects of interest in natural history to reward more patient investigation. Being advised by my medical friends to pass another VI

PREFACE.

. season in a warm climate, I formed the plan of spending my second winter altogether in the Sahara, and his Excellency le Marechal Bandon, Governor-General of Algeria, most kindly seconded the scheme, by offering me all the assistance and protection in his power throughout the vast regions tributary to, or in alliance with, the French. In company therefore with a friend, also in quest of health, the Bev. James Peed, to whose society I owe many a happy hour, and to whose pencil this volume owes many of its illustrations, these wanderings were commenced in September, and continued until the following spring. The hasty sketches taken on the spot, while they have lost none of their original truth, have gained both beauty and vigour from the graceful hand of my kind and skilful young friend, Miss Salvin ; who will, I am sure, pardon the insertion of her name among those to whom my gratitude is due.

The following pages are almost a literal transcript from my daily journal, composed at such spare minutes as could be snatched from the urgent labours of camping, cooking, horse-feeding, and preserving specimens ; and generally in that recumbent posture which is supposed to woo sleep rather than the Muses. They can therefore have no claim upon the attention of the public, except in so far as they are a faithful reflection of occurrences and impressions in a country the greater portion of whicli had not been before traversed by any European, and where, as I believe, no English traveller but ourselves has ever wandered. The northern portion, or " Hants Plateaux," of the

PREFACE.

. VII Sahara is well known to the French ; but of the country of the Beni M'zab and the districts south of it no account, I believe, has yet been published in any European language, beyond the meagre and often most inaccurate descriptions gathered by General Daumas from native travellers. Geographical research appears at the present moment to be concentrated on the great continent of Africa ; and Livingstone, Barth, Petherick, and Speke have been revealing to us countries but yesterday undreamt of. Still, in less mysterious regions there may be some scraps of interest left for tribes and oases hitherto known only by name, and which must soon fall more directly under European power. The policy of France up to the present time has been to follow the example of her Boman predecessors, to leave these friendly or neutral tribes in the enjoyment of self government, and to treat the Sahara as a natural. frontier.

That policy, we learn from the ' Moniteur,' is now about to be reversed. No natural frontier is to be acknowledged in Africa ; and we are promised in the coming winter a regularly organized expedition, which is to push tlirough the M'zab, Waregla, Touat, and the Touareg, to Timbuctoo, and so to unite French Algeria with French Senegambia. How far such an advance is likely to result in anything beyond the destruction of the unhappy Corps d'Afrique engaged in it may be conjectured by the difficulties which beset even in the first portion of the route a small party of travellers enjoying the assistance of the natives. Against the suspicions of the inhabitants of the oases, and the Parthian attacks of the indomitable Touareg, it

PREFACE.

. VIII seems scarcely possible that any armed force can achieve the march, or, if it should do so, that it can add aught but the most empty glory to the survivors and their country. To the student of humanity the interest of the Sahara appears to centre in the M'zab and the other oases here described, whose inhabitants, the descendants of the ancient Numidians, though generally confounded in European ideas with Arabs and Moors, have contrived for centuries to preserve their language and municipal independence, while surrounded by the fierce hordes of Arabian and Touareg intruders. These islanders of the desert, utterly cut off from all intercourse with a higher civilization, have preserved a republican and federal government as perfect and complex as that of Switzerland ; and though unhappily fallen under the yoke of the false prophet, have re mained uncontaminated by many of the grosser vices of Islamism.

Such races bespeak a noble ancestry, and under the benign influences of a pure and simple Christianity may yet prove themselves no unworthy offspring of that Nuniidia and Libya which even in decrepitude could produce an Augustine and a Cyprian. Castle Eden, July, 18G0. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. Steam from Marseilles — Motley assemblage — Struggle for berths — A Sunday at sea — American sceptic — Minorca — Migratory birds — View of Algiers — Harbour — Old corsair — Grand Place — Statue of Duke of Orleans — Mosques — Costumes — Omnibuses — Governor's return from Kabylie — Soldier's burial — Anecdotes of the war — General Yusuf — Description of the Djibbeb, or Dance of the Beni Yssou — Negro sacrifices — Missions — Mr. Weiss. Page 1 CHAPTEE II. Preparations for travel — Dragoman — Tents — Licence for arms — Letters — Advice of the governor — A mulish baggage-horse — Disastrous start — Fort l'Empereur — Orphe'linat — Dely Ibrahim — Protestant institute — Douera — Interesting prisoners — Bouffariek — Successful colonization — Beni Mered — A valiant guard — Mausoleum of the kings of Mauritania — Lake Halloula - — Blidah — Gorge ofthe Chiffa — Scenery — Monkeys — Arab Gourbis — Making game of a naturalist — Meeting Bedouins — Dog lost — Taking an inn by storm — Cheap lodgings — Mines of Mouzai'a — Medeah — Native review — A Sheik's farewell of his son — Eagerness for Parisian education 21 CHAPTEE III.

Sunday at Medeah — Protestants in Algeria — First night in a tent — Berrouaghuia — Spahis — Their organization — A strange pet — Open forests — Water forgotten and well dry — A chace after our horses — The Cheliff — Boghar — Panorama of the Sahara — Boman occupation of North Africa — Triple line of posts • — Dependence of the Nomads on the Tell — Musitazana — French system of military government — Statistics — Taxation — Bokhari — Arab cafo — Gardi as — Botanical garden — Silos, or underground granaries . . . . CONTENTS. X CHAPTEE IV. Departure from Boghar — Faineant farrier — Lock the door — Wayside cabaret — In the Sahara- — Camels — Jacob's flocks — A mirage — Paradise of waterfowl — Flamingoes — Plovers — The Sheik Bou Disah — Falconry — A bustard-hunt — The sandgrouse — Costly birds — Sunday in the desert — Natron deposits — Whirlwinds — Pillars of sand — Bedouin on the march — Camel-tents — Ain Oosera — Formation of the Steppes — Geologic record — The Zahrez — Fast in the sand — Salt-rocks — Intelligent guide — Manufacture of saltpetre — Note on the salt-hills of Herodotus . . . .

Page 59 CHAPTEE V. Roman ruins — Djelfa — A countryman in the Sahara — A dilatory Dragoman — A cold sponge — Dr. Beboud — Botany of the Desert ■ — Saharan pool — A young wife — Ain el Ibel — Forced colonization ■ — Sheep-farming — Bat a trompe — The general hoaxed — Bedouin shepherds — Large camp — The commander's tent — Hospitable cook — Commandant Marguerite — Battle of the horses — Hairbreadth escape — Touareg embassy — Puits Enez — Honest companions — Arrival at El Aghouat ,78 CHAPTEE VI Laghouat — The view from its citadel — Carpeted roofs — Turkish bath — Storming of Laghouat — Native heroine — Manufacture of morocco leather — Value of pomegranate rind — Teeth to let — Gardens — Cultivation of the date-palm — Date-wine — A female saint's reward — Geological features — Primitive plough — Barley cultivation — Birds — Dayats — A wounded gazelle — An equine practical joke ■ — Squadron of donkeys ■ — A sportsman's dinner-party — Kouskousou — Boat-launch at Laghouat — Daring exploit of the Commandant — Omar's rebellion — A new Dragoman — The Kadi of Berryan — Scarcity of water-skins — Farewell party . . i»2 CHATTEE VII.

Departure from Laghouat — Early rising — Arab cavaliers — The Dayats — Birds of prey — Unsuccessful gazelle-hunt — The terebinth — Deborah's oak — Night camp in the Sahara — Desert graves — Aclimedlost — Perils of the wastes — Vain search — A tipsy guard — Tilghrcmt — Tn top of ostrich — The ostrich-hunt — Ostrich-eggs — Rocky Chebkha — A shower in the desert — Rivers from home — Sanguine hopes — A murdered caravan — Berryan CONTESTS. XI CHAPTEE VIII. Sudden view of Berryan — Strange contrast — Imposing procession — The reception by the Parliament — The Kadi in full dress — A state dinner — Hospitality by taxation — Early callers — A travelled Mozabite — Arab tribe — Primitive loom — An auction — Traditions of the M'zab — Moab and Ammon — Spanish traveller- — Saharan sewerage — Dove-shooting — Cultivation of gardens — Novel wells — Ploughs — Forbidden sweets — Degenerate kouskousou — An exigeaut Dragoman — The Kadi's farewell Page 124 CHAPTEE IX.

A narrow escape — A suspiciously-faithful guard — Omar on theology — Future of Islam — Frost in the desert — A morning scene by our camp-fire — View of Ghardaia — Street scene — The guest-house — Political system of the Beni M'zab — Unpaid officials — Ziekar, or wedding-dance — A deserted city — The Wed M'zab — Gardens — Commemoration of founders — A funeral feast — Largesse — Spirit licence — Maine liquor-law — Value of coffee and tea — The lost found — Return of Achmed — My ratcatcher — Lizards and mice — Jewish jewellers — Markets — Manufactures — Tannin — Dyes — Caravans — M'zab toilet — Slavery 138 CHAPTEE X. Mellika — The sacred city — Achmed's fame — Inquisitive maidens — The old Kadi — Wareglans — Smoking keef — Gorgeous sunset — Love of tobacco — Horse-borrowing — A lawsuit — Municipal duties of a Kadi — Beni Isguen — The city of soldiers — A travelled Mozabite — White camels — Novel mode of quarrying — House-building by subscription — Simple loom — Rifle volunteers — Ball-practice — Ideas of England — An unpopular chieftain — El At'f — Hospitality — Bounoura — Metlili — The Chaamba — Our host — Parting gifts 159 CHAPTEE XI.

Departure from Ghardaia — The de sert again ■ — Wed N'ca — Vegetation in the wilderness — Effects of moisture — Ostriches- — Antelope — An assault — Achmed's opinion of his race — Guerrara — Full moon — Festivities — Intestine warfare — Use of the arch — Tombs of the saints — Weddings — Dress — Demands on a hakeem — A traveller from Timbuctoo — Ghadames — Touat — Achmed's rebellion — Amusing trial — The oldest inhabitant — Farewell to the M'zab . . CONTENTS. XII CHAPTEE XII. History asd Institutions or the M'zab. History of the M'zab — Herodotus — Greek and Roman traditions and reports — Gætuli and Melano-Gætuli — Touareg — Distinctness of language — Arab tradition — Jewish tale — Legends among the M'zab — Historical facts commence only with emigration from Oran — Temporary colony at Waregla — Berryan and Guerrara — Customs — Religious peculiarities — No dervishes — French interference — Form of excommunication — Shame wiped out in blood — Poor-laws — Public works — Taxation — Industry — Obstinacy — Freemasonry Page 195 CHAPTEE XIII.

Stony desert — Wed N'ga — New plants — Caution in camping — Story of a midnight attack — Asleep on guard — Threatening clouds — El Guentra — Landmarks — A homesick boy — Hardships of camel-drivers — Wed M'zab — A night alarm — Preparations for an encounter — Friends after all — A friendly chat — First sight of Waregla — Rumours of war — Descent to the oasis — A saint's revenge — Halt at the gate — Sidi Zobeir — An Arab aristocrat — A feast — Public toilet — Ride through the city — Ruined palace — A costly Sultan — History of Waregla — Jews — Old coins — Gardens — Attempt at colonization — Geological speculations . . 210 CHAPTEE XIV. The Touareg — Embassy to Algiers — Dr. Barth — Touareg passport — Djebel Hoggar — Hidden wells — Mahari, or white dromedaries — Costume of the Touareg — Anns — Language ■ — Troubles at Warcgla — Marocain mountebanks — A tea-party with an a"lia Beport of a battle — Our host's brother slain — Hasty retreat Preparation of a chieftain's letter — Bide to N'goussa — Singular tombs — Arab honesty — A N'goussa feast — Alarms of robbers A watchful guard 234 CHAPTEE XV.

An early start- — Moonlight march — An active guide — Which is the route? The enemy's camp-fire — Becklessness of Arabs Halt at daybreak — Skulkers detected — A cavalry charge and capture The prisoner's story — Traces of a struggle — Dromedary-men Camels give in — Weary march — Hadjira at last — A Mussulman saint — A quiet resting-place — Escape of a fugitive to the city of refuge — Visit of ceremony — State reception — Devout horsemen Ain Bahrdad — Story of the Mekhasni's exploit' — A vigilant shepherd—An unhealthy city— Blad et Amer — Nature and art in decay — Descent into the Wed R'hir CONTENTS. XIII CHAPTEE XVI. Tuggurt — Confines of French dominion — Native troops — Hungarian sergeant — The palace of the Bey — Miscellaneous inhabitants — Imperial furniture — An ancient throne — Visit of the Bey — Arrival of French column — Varied equipments — The camp pitched — Why do we travel ? — Night-stroll in the camp — Christmas cheer — General Desvaux — African falcons — Cotton — Meeting with a countryman — Political ideas of a native soldier — Marshes and lake of Tuggurt — A new fish — Geological speculations Page 268 CHAPTEE XVII.

History and Description of Tuggurt. Doubtful Roman remains — Tuggurt the metropolis of the Wed R'hir — Allusions of Shaw and Leo Africanus — Political constitution — A fortunate shepherd — Wars with Constantine — Capture by General Desvaux • — Deposition of the Sultan — Mussulman Jews — JeweUers — Massacre of the Beni M'zab — Ruined mosque — Horticulture — Trade and commerce — Ancient artesian wells — Pestilential miasma — The Dour, or " Turn-again " of invaders . . 279 CHAPTEE XVIII. Starved out of Tuggurt — A refractory Dragoman — Temacin — A Wed R'hir city — Busy market-scene — Zouia — Solitary French officers — ■ A sublimated marabout — Royal and Imperial gifts — A misplaced cart — Warrior saint — A Bedouin dominie — Cheerful soldiers — Omar returns — The priest's steward a valuable guide — Weary desert ride — Solitary well — Breasting the sand-waves — Sous at last — The hospitable Khalifat — Magnificent reception — A night of plenty after a day of scarcity — Saharan's opinion of English and French religions — Dryness of Sous — Domed roofs — Female ornaments — Market — Purchases of silk — Gardening under difficulties — Birds and beasts — Shooting at Sous 291 CHAPTEE XIX.

The warrior Sheik of Sous — A desert foray — Tunis and France — Commercial politics of the Sahara — Reports of Roman cities in the interior — The prison of Sous — The wild ass of the Sahara — Arrival of a horseman from G'hadames — Capitaine Bonnemain — Trade — Dates — Fabrics — Caravans — Wonderful powers of sight — The Arabs of Sous — Our departure — Taibeit — A nocturnal in- CONTENTS. XIV trader— Return to Tuggurt — Evening ride — Camp and villages — Palm-trees by moonlight — A military mass — A warrior's sermon in a mosque — Tact of General Desvaux — Dinner with the commandant — The fennek or desert fox Page 313 CHAPTEE XX. St. Martin's brigade — The return convoy — Strange medley — Sandstorm — First bivouac — A forced sale — Drunken troopers missing — The Cure of Batna — Tamerna and its artesian well — St. Martin's mode of supplying the commissariat — Tribute-money — A post-courier in the desert — El Baadj — Solitary caravanserai — The Sheik's entertainment — Judge of assize — Cases civil and criminal — Prompt decisions and speedy justice — First glimpse of the Atlas — Oumach — Mons Aurasius — Approach to Biskra ■ — Captain Pigalle's mansion — Return to civilization 330 CHAPTEE XXI.

Biskra — Parisian tourists — Struggle of the desert and the Tell — Botanical garden — Farms and gardens — Omar's faithlessness — Formal trial and judicial separation — Our ex-warrior groom — Novel application of the trial by ordeal — Ingenuity of the detectives — Hot spring — Peculiar fish — Our last Sunday at Biskra, and common service — Departure — Col de Sfa — El Outaia ■ — Saltmountain — Natural warm baths — Benighted on the plain — The last of the oases — Gorge of El Kantara — Roman bridge — Grandeur of the pass — FareweU to the Sahara 345 APPENDICES. I. On the Physical Geography of the Sahara 359 H. On the Geological System of the Central Sahara of Algeria 368 III. On the History of the Sahara 377 IV. Catalogue of the Mammals of the Sahara 382 V. Birds of the Sahara 389 VI. Reptiles of the Sahara 405 VII.

Catalogue of the Mollusca of the Sahara 408 VIII. Catalogue of Plants collected iu the Algerian Sahara, arranged after the Natural System LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Oasis of El Kantara, the Gate of the Sahara . . Frontispiece. Marabout of Berryan Title-page. Map of Northern Desert of Africa To face page 1 KOUBBER ROUMEAH — MAUSOLEUM OF 'THE MaURITANIAN Kings To face 30 M'zab Pottery on Graves 130 Semaar of Ghardaia 142 Gate of Ghardaia To face 143 Gateway and Guest-house, Ghardaia 143 City of Mellika 159 Semaur Tower, El At'f, Beni M'zab To face 170 Colossal Cairns : 177 Tower on the Wall, Guerrara .179 Marabout south-west of Guerrara .. .. 181 Gateway of Guerrara To face 182 Marabout near Guerrara 102 Isolated Rock near Guerrara 210 Djebel Soultaun, near Waregla To face 218 Bab-el-Soultaun, the Sultan's Gate, Waregla . .

To face 222 Main Street and Entrance to Mosque, Waregla .. .. 226 Tombs, N'goussa 250 Gate of Tuggurt Tufaee 268 Mosque in the Wed R'hir To face 284 Mosque Tower, Temacin 293 Mosque Gate, Zouia 295 Marabout near Tuggurt, on the road to Souf 299 Well in the Wed R'hir To face 300 Entrance to El Oued Souf 307 Stream and Palm-Grove, Wed R'hir .. ..__ .. To face 333 Map of the Algerian Sahara At the end. I...... I.n ■ l.'l'" U v.Alli, m.,,1.. Si,-.-..i THE GREAT SAHARA.