The Glaciers of the Alps. Being a narrative of excursions and ascents. An account of the origin and phenomena of Glaciers, and an exposition of the physical principles to which they are related ... With illustrations. (Appendix. Comparative view of the cleavage of Crystals and Slate-rocks; a...

Front matter

S.COOP&tS* THE MER DE GLACE. Showing th.* Cloft Station at TiAapor.f , les Eciieleta, tlie lacul, Uill/nai* b and tho Grande Jorasse. THE GLACIERS OF THE ALPS. BEING A NARRATIVE OF EXCURSIONS AND ASCENTS, AN ACCOUNT OF THE ORIGIN AND PHENOMENA OF GLACIERS AND AN EXPOSITION OF THE PHYSICAL PRINCIPLES TO WHICH THEY ARE RELATED. By JOHN TYNDALL, F.E.S., MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SOCIETIES OF SCIENCE OF HOLLAND AND GOTTINGEN; OFTHE SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES OF HALLE, MARBURG, AND ZURICH; OF THE SOCIETE rHILOBIATIQUE OF PARIS; OF THE NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSICAL SOCIETY OF GENEVA; OF THE PHYSICAL SOCIETY OF BERLIN; PROFESSOR OF NATURAL PHILOSOPHY IN THE ROYAL INSTITUTION OF GREAT BRITAIN, AND IN THE GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF MINES. WITH ILLUSTKATIONB. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1860. TO MICHAEL FARADAY, THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. 1860. b

Preface

. In the following work I have not attempted to mix Narrative and Science, believing that the mind once interested in the one, cannot with satisfaction pass abruptly to the other. The book is therefore divided into Two Parts : the first chiefly narrative, and the second chiefly scientific. In Part I. I have sought to convey some notion of the life of an Alpine explorer, and of the means by which his knowledge is acquired. In Part II. an attempt is made to classify such knowledge, and to refer the observed phenomena to their physical causes. The Second Part of the work is written with a desire to interest intelligent persons who may not possess any special scientific culture. For their sakes I have dwelt more fully on princijdes than I should have done in presence of a purely scientific audience.

The brief sketch of the nature of Light and Heat, with which Part II. is commenced, will not, I trust, prove uninteresting to the reader for whom it is more especially designed. Should any obscurity exist as to the meaning of the terms Structure, Dirt-bands, Eegelation, Interference, and others, wliich occur in Part I., it will entirely disappear in the perusal of Part II. b

PREFACE.

. VI Two ascents of Mont Blanc and two of Monte Kosa are recorded; but the aspects of nature, and other circumstances which attracted my attention, were so different in the respective cases, that repetition was scarcely possible. The numerous interesting articles on glaciers which have been published during the last eighteen months, and the various lively discussions to which the subject has given birth, have induced me to make myself better acquainted than I had previously been with the historic aspect of the question. In some important cases I have stated, with the utmost possible brevity, the results of my reading, and thus, I trust, contributed to the forma tion of a just estimate of men whose labours in this field were long anterior to my own. J. T. Royal Institution, June, 1860. CONTENTS.

Part I

1. — Introductory. Visit to Penrhyn ; the Cleavage of Slate Rocks; Sedgwick's theory — its difficulties ; Sharpe's observations ; Sorby's experiments ; Lecture at the Royal Institution ; Glacier Lamination ; arrangement of an expedition to Switzerland Page 1 'S' 2. — Expedition of 1856 : the Oberland. Valley of Lauterbrunnen ; Pliability of rocks ; the Wengern Alp ; the Jungfrau and Silberhorn ; lee avalanches ; Glaciers formed from them ; Scene from the Little Scheideck ; the Lower Grindelwald Glacier ; the Heisse Platte — its Avalanches ; Ice Minarets and Blocks ; Echos of the Wetterhorn ; analogy with the Reflection of Light from angular mirrors ; the Reichenbach Cascade ; Handeck Fall ; the Grimsel ; the Unteraar Glacier ; hut of M. Dolfuss ; Hotel des Neufckatelois ; the Rhone glacier from the Mayenwand ; expedition up the glacier : Coloured Rings round the sun ; crevasses of the nive; extraordinary meteorological phenomenon ; Spirit of the Brocken U 3.— The Tyrol.

Kaunserthal and the Gebatsch Alp ; Senner or Cheesemakers ; Gehatsch Glacier ; a night in a cowshed ; passage to Lantaufer ; a chamois on the rocks ; my Guide ; the atmospheric snow-line ; passage of the Stelvio ; Colour of fresh snow ; Bormio ; the pass recrossed by night ; aspect of the mountains; Meran to Unserfrau; passage of the Hochjoch to Fend ; singular rfeilstorm ; wild glacier region ; hidden crevasses ; First Paper presented to the Royal Society 23 4. — Expedition op 1857 : the Lake of Geneva. Blueness of the water ; the head of the Lake ; appearance of the Rhone ; subsidence of particles ; Mirage 33 5. — Chamouni and the Montanvert. Arrival ; Coloured Shadows on the snow ; Source of the Arveiron ; fall of the Vault; "Sunrise in the Valley of Chamouni ; " Scratched Rocks ; quarters at the Montanvert 37 b CONTENTS.

VIII 6. — The Mer de Glace. Not a Sea but a River of ice ; Wave-forms on its surface ; their explanation ; Structure and Strata ; Glacier Tables ; first view of the Dirt Bands ; influence of Illumination in rendering them visible ; the Eye incapable of detecting differences between intense lights . . . . Page 42 7. Measurements commenced ; the " Cleft Station " at Trelaporte ; Regelation of snow granules ; two chamois ; view of the Mer de Glace and its Tributaries ; 8&acs of the Col du Ge'ant ,* Sliding and Viscous theories ; Rending of the ice ; Striæ on its surface ; White Ice-seams . . . . 46 8. Alone upon the glacier ; Lakes and Rivulets ; parallel between Glacier and Geological disturbance ; splendid rainbow ; aspect of the glacier at the base of the Se'racs ; visit to the Chief Guide at Chamouni ; Liberties granted 57 9. — The Jardin.

Glacier du Talefre ; Jardin divides the ne've' ; Blue Veins near the summit ; surrounding scene ; Moraines and Avalanches ; Cascade du Talefre ; dangers on approaching it from above 61 10. Lightning and Rain ; Spherical hailstones ; an evening among the crevasses ; Dangerous Leap ; ice-practice ; preparations for an ascent of Mont Blanc 64 11. — First Ascent of Mont Blanc, 1857. Across the mountain to the Glacier des Bossons ; its crevasses ; Ladder left behind ; consequent difficulties ; the Grands Mulets ; Twinkling and change of Colour of the Stars ; moonlight on the mountaius ; start with one guide ; difficulties among the crevasses ; the Petit Plateau ; Se'racs of the Dome du Goute' ; bad condition of snow ; the Grand Plateau ; Coloured Spectra round the sun ; the lost Guides ; the Route missed ; dangerous ice-slope ; Guide exhausted ; cutting steps ; cheerless prospect ; the Corridor ; the Mur de la Cote ; the Petits Mulets ; food and drink disappear ; Physiological experiences on the Calotte ; Summit attained ; the Clouds and Mountains ; experiment on Sound ; colour of the snow ; the descent ; a solitary prisoner ; second night at the Grands Mulets ; Inflammation of eyes ; a blind man among the crevasses ; descent to Chamouni ; thimder on Mont Blanc 68 12.

Life at the Montanvert ; glacier " Blower ; " Cascade of the Talefre ; difficulties in setting out lines ; departure from the Montanvert ; my hosts ; prospect from the Glacier des Bois ; Edouard Simond CONTENTS. IX 13. — Expedition of 1858. Origin and aim of the expedition ; Laminated Structure of the ice Page 92 14. — Passage of the Strahleck. Unpromising weather ; appearance of the glacier and of the adjacent mountains ; Transverse Protuberances ; Dirt Bands ; Structure ; a Slip on a snow slope ; the Finsteraarhorn ; the Schreckhorn ; extraordinary Atmospheric Effects ; Summit of the Strahleck ; Grand Amphitheatre ; mutations of the clouds ; descent of the rocks ; a Bergschmnd ; fog in the valley ; descent to the Grimsel 93 15. Ancient Glaciers in the valley of Hasli ; Rounded, Polished, and Striated Rocks ; level of the ancient ice ; Groovings on the Grimsel Pass ; glacier of the Rhone ; descent of the Rhone valley ; the Æggischhorn ; Cloud Iridescences ; the Aletsch glacier ; the Margelin See ; Icebergs ; Tributaries of the Aletsch ; Grand glacier-region ; crevasses ; a chamois deceived 99 16. — Ascent of the Finsteraarhorn.

Character of my Guide ; iridescent cloud ; evening on the Faulberg ; the Jungfrau and her neighbours ; a Mountain Cave ; the Jungfrau before dawn ; contemplated visit ; the Griinhorn Lucke ; Magnificent Corridor ; sunrise ; . ne've of the Viesch glacier ; halt at the base of the Finsteraarhorn ; Spurs and Couloirs of the mountain ; Pyramidal Crest ; scene of Agassiz's observations ; a hard climb ; discipline of such an ascent ; Boiling Point ; Registering Thermometer, its fate ; daring utterance ; descent by glissades; the Viesch glacier; hidden crevasses; a brave and competent guide 104 17. Subsequent days at the Æggischhorn ; Afloat on the Icebergs ; Bedding and Structure; Ancient Moraines of the Aletsch ; Scratched Rocks ; passage of the mountains to the end of the glacier ; a wild gorge ; arrival at Zermatt ; the Riffelberg * 119 18. — First Ascent of Monte Bosa.

The ascent new to myself and my guide ; directions ; Ulrich Lauener ; Ominous Clouds ; passage of the Gorner Glacier ; Roches Moutonne'es ; Avalanche from the Twins ; gradual advance of clouds ; bridged chasms ; Scene from a cliff ; apparent atmospheric struggle ; Sound of the snow ; Dangerous Edge ; Overhanging Cornice ; staff driven through it ; increased obscurity ; Rocky Crest ; loss of pocketbook ; Summit attained ; Boiling Point ; fall of snow ; exquisite forms of the Snow Crystals ; a shower of frozen blossoms ; the descent ; mode of attachment ; Startling Avalanche ; Blue Light emitted from the fissures of the fresh snow ; Stifling Heat ; return to the Riffel X CONTENTS. 19. The Rothe Kumin ; pleasant companions ; difficult descent ; temperatures of rock, air, and grass ; Singular Cavern in the ice ; Structure and Stratification Page 133 20. — The Gorner Grat and the Biffelhorn ; Magnetic Bhenomena.

Formation and Dissipation of clouds ; Scene from the Gorner Grat ; Magnetism of the Rocks ; the Compass and Sun at variance ; ascent of the Riffelhorn ; Magnetic effects ; places of most intense action ; Scratched and Polished Rocks ; Exfoliation of crust produced by the sliding of ancient glaciers ; Magnetic Polarity ; Consequent Points ; Bearings from the Riffelhorn ; action on a Distant Needle 137 21. Fog on the Riffelberg ; its dissipation ; Sunset from the Gorner Grat ; Cloudwreaths on the Matterhorn ; Streamers of Flame ; grand Interference Phenomenon ; investigation of Structure ; the Gbrnerhoru glacier ; Western-glacier of Monte Rosa ; the Schwartze, Trifti, and The'odule glaciers ; welding of the Tributaries to parallel Strips ; Temptation 145 22. — Second Ascent of Monte Bosa, 1858.

A Light Scrip ; my Guide ient ; a substitute ; a party on the mountain ; across the glacier and up the rocks ; the guide expostulates ; among the crevasses ; the guide halts ; left alone ; beauty of the mountain ; splendid effects of Diffraction ; Cheer from the summit ; on the Kamm ; climbers meet ; among the rocks ; Alone on the Summit ; the Axe slips ; the prospect ; the descent ; serious accident ; a word on climbing alone 151 23. The Furgge glacier ; thunder and lightning ; the Weissthor given up ; excursion by Stalden to Saas ; Herr Imseng ; the Mattmark See and Hotel ; ascent of a boulder ; Snow-storm ; cold quarters ; the Monte Moro ; the .Mlelein glacier ; a noble vault ; Structure and Dirt-bands ; stormy weather ; Avalanches at Saas ; the Fe'e glacier ; Frozen dust on the Mischabelhorner ; Snow, Vapour, and Cloud ; curious effect on the hearing ; " a Terrible Hole ;" singular group ; a Song from the 'Robbers' CONTENTS.

XI 24. Need of observations on Alpine Temperature ; Balmat's intention ; aid from the Royal Society ; Difficulties at Chamouni in 185S ; the Intendant memorialized ; his response ; the Se'racs revisited ; Crevasses and Crumples ; bad weather ; thermometers placed at the Jardin ; Avalanches of the Talefre ; wondrous sky Page 168 25. — Second Ascent of Mont Blanc, 1858. Shadows of the Aiguilles ; Silver Trees at sunrise ; M. Necker's letter ; Birds as Sparks and Stars against the sky ; crevasse bridged ; ladder rejected ; a hunt for a pont ; crevasses crossed ; Magnificent Sunset ; illuminated clouds ; Storm on the Grands Mulets ; a Comet discovered ; start by starlight ; the Petit Plateau a reservoir for avalanches ; Balmat's warning ; the Grand Plateau at dawn ; blue of the ice ; Balmat in danger ; Clouds upon the Calotte ; the Summit ; wind and snow-dust ; Balmat frostbitten ; halt on the Calotte ; descent to Chamouni ; good conduct of porters 177 26.

Hostility of Chief Guide ; Proces Verbal ; the British Association ; application to the Sardinian authorities ; President's Letter ; Royal Society ; Testimonial to Balmat 192 27. — Winter Expedition to the Mer de Glace, 1859. First defeat and fresh attempt ; Geneva to Chamouni ; deep snow ; Desolation ; slow progress ; a horse in the snow ; a struggle ; Chamouni on Christmas night ; mountains hidden ; Climb to the Montanvert ; Snow on the Pines ; de"bris of avalanches ; Breaking of snow ; Atmospheric Changes ; the mountains concealed and revealed ; colour of the snow ; the Montanvert in Winter ; footprints in the snow ; wonderful frost figures ; Crystal Curtain ; the Mer de Glace in Winter ; the first night ; " a rose of dawn ;" Crimson Banners of the .Aiguilles ; the stakes fixed ; e Hurricane on the glacier ; the second night ; Wild Snow-storm ; a man in a crevasse ; calm ; Magnificent Snow Crystals ; Sound through the falling snow ; swift descent ; Source of the Arveiron ; Crystal Cave ; appearance of water ; westward from the vault ; Majestic Scene ; Farewell CONTENTS. XII