The Lan of Israel; a journal of Travels in Palestine, undertaken with a special reference to its physical character

Front matter

THE LAND OF ISEAEL. - o. r MLHLii.su i . I- 1 ■* w, DicKia, cnnuM AT AIN FESHKHAH. -'■^ ; . . NOHTH WEST SIDE OF DEAD SEA. THE LAND OF ISRAEL: A Journal of i^atiets in Palestine, UNDERTAKEN WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO ITS PHYSICAL CHARACTER. BY H. B. TRISTRAM, M.A., LL.D., F.R.S., Canon of Durham. PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION" OF THE COMMITTEE OP GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION, APPOINTED BY THE SOCIETY FOE PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. THIRD EDITION, REVISED. LONDON: SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN" KNOWLEDGE ; SOLD AT THE DEPOSITORIES : 77, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS; i, ROYAL EXCHANGE; 48, PICCADILLY; AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. NEW YORK: POTT, YOUNG & CO. 1876. LO-TDON: Fbinteby J as. TsrscoTT and Son, Sutlulk Lace, City.

Preface

. Divines, antiquarians, and poets have trodden the fields of Palestine, and made the world familiar with its most interesting and striking features. Not to enumerate others, the researches of Dr. Kobinson and the glowing pictures of Dean Stanley have, upon most subjects connected with the country, left little to be filled in by their successors. Notwithstanding this, however, and although libraries teem with volumes of geographical and archæological investigations, the physical history of the Holy Land appears, hitherto, to have scarcely received the attention that is due to it, and there may in this direction be still room left for a contribution to our knowledge. In the belief that this field was not yet exhausted, I spent, accompanied by a small party of friends, in 1863-4, a period of nearly ten months in the examination chiefly of the geology and natural history of the country.

Our attention was particularly directed to the basin of the Dead Sea, and to the districts east of the Jordan, as being those least accessible to travellers, and of which our know ledge was least complete. Every country is interesting to the student of nature, but the interest is vastly enhanced when he wanders among the scenes which suggested their imagery to Prophets and Psalmists ; and, far more even than this, which supplied illustrations for the teaching of our Divine Kedeemer ; and which are also consecrated by the memories of Himself and His Apostles.

PREFACE.

. VI Though Palestine boasts in its productions neither the tropical splendour of India, nor the gorgeous luxuriance of Southern America, yet from its fowls of the air are drawn for us our lessons of faith and trust, from the flowers of its fields our lessons of humility. The phenomena of its climate, the character of its agriculture, the fishes of its lake, the bears of its woods, the wild goat of its rocks, the turtle and the stork returning to their haunts amidst its groves, the sparrow and the swallow sheltered in its temple, are subjects, an acquaintance with which may not be essential to a comprehension of the lessons of Sacred Writ, but yet may be of considerable value in enabling the reader to appreciate the force and beauty of the parable or the narrative, and in impressing the scene or the story upon his imagination and his memory.

There are two circumstances which must be impressed upon every thoughtful visitor to the land which was selected to be the cradle of God's revelation to man, and of a faith that was intended to be universal : first, the absence in its scenery of the romantic — of all that could bewilder the imagination or foster a localized superstition ; and, secondly, the marvellous variety of its climate, scenery, and productions, — from the dreary deserts of Southern Judæa to the wooded glades of Gilead and Galilee — from the seething valley of the lower Jordan, 1,300 feet below the level of the sea, to the almost Arctic heights of Her mon and Lebanon. When Solomon " spake of trees, from the cedar-tree that is in Lebanon even unto the hyssop that springeth out of the wall," his botanical range ex tended from the hardy pine under northern snows, to the plants of the sultry deserts of Arabia. No land could have been found more capable of providing illustrations

PREFACE.

. VII for a book which was to be read and understood by the men of North and South alike — which was to teach the lessons of truth equally to the dweller in the tropics and under the pole — than this, in which the palm, the vine, the oak, and the pine flourish almost side by side. My attempt in the following pages, which are for the most part a transcript of letters written on the spot, has been simply to convey the observations and impressions of each day as to the scenery, features, and products of the country through which we were passing ; and I have kept back those technical details and enumerations which would have little attraction except for the naturalist, though, for the sake of definition, I have thought it ad visable generally to insert the scientific names of such animals, plants, and fossils as are incidentally mentioned in the text : nor have I scrupled occasionally to enter upon topographical disquisition when on comparatively untrod den ground, or when the sacred narrative seemed to be thereby elucidated.

To the zealous and indefatigable co-operation of my fellow-travellers, whose companionship enabled me to accomplish my long-cherished desire, I owe much, and more than I can adequately acknowledge. To the accu rate and artistic pencils of my friends Mr. W. C. P. Med lycott and Mr. P. Egerton-Warburton, and to the careful photographs of my friend, Mr. H. T. Bowman, all kindly placed at my disposal, the volume is indebted for its illustrations. The scientific knowledge and perseverance of my companion, Mr. B. T. Lowne, were devoted to the botany of the country, and his ready information on this subject has been largely drawn upon in the preparation of my notes ; while to the keen eye and indefatigable labours

PREFACE.

. VIII of my zoological assistant, Mr. Edward Bartlett, a young naturalist of no ordinary promise, are due the discovery andpreservation of many specimens which would never otherwise have enriched our collections. My friends, Mr H. M. Upcher and Mr. C. W. Shepherd, were unwearied in their efforts to promote in every possible way the objects of our expedition. Nor must I omit my grateful acknowledgments to Messrs. J. H. Cochrane, Barneby- Lutley, and Garnier, by whose kind assistance and in whose society, with Mr. Egerton- Warburton, I was enabled after the return of our original party to accomplish, at length, the most interesting part of my trans-Jordanic excursion. For the facilities which were afforded to us wherever Turkish authority carries influence, we are much indebted to the efforts of our friend R. S. Newall, Esq., of the Electric Telegraph Company.

In the hope that this humble contribution to our know ledge of sacred scenes may conduce in some degree, how ever slight, to the elucidation or illustration of Holy Writ, and in the firm conviction that every investigation of even the minor details of the topography and the natural cha racter and features of the land has tended to corroborate the minute accuracy of the Inspired Record, and to con firm our faith in its divine origin, these pages are com mitted to the press ; not without a deep sense of gratitude to the Divine Providence which enabled us to complete our journey in health and safety ; and an earnest prayer that God may prosper this and every attempt to illustrate His Holy Word. Greatham Vicarage, 2Srd March, 1865. NOTE TO THIRD EDITION. Another edition of the " Land of Israel" being now called for, the whole has been carefully revised, and much detail of personal incident has been omitted, while everything bearing on the topography, geology, and natural history of Palestine has been retained.

It is a source of satisfaction to find that, though the sacred land has been thoroughly surveyed and examined by a scientific staff, in the decade which has elapsed since the work was first given to the public, there has been little to correct or amend in its account of the topography and physical history of the country, and that the officers of the Palestine Exploration have borne kind testimony to its accuracy, and especially to that of the chapters on the Dead Sea. Some correc tions have been made in the details respecting Nebo, the result of my careful examination of Moab in 1872, which has been already published in the " Land of Moab." As to the severe attacks which have been made on this point by an American writer, supported only by one English tourist with no experience or knowledge of the country, I may refer to the note at page 530.

The circulation of 4,000 copies of this work in its more costly form leads to the hope that a cheaper edition may prove of some little service to many students of God's Word and works. In the full conviction that the interest of Christians in all that bears on the external incidents of Revelation has, of late years, steadily increased, this attempt to contribute to its illustration is again sent forth. College, Durham, 31st May, 1876, CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Arrival off Beyrout — First Impressions — On the Borders of the Land of Promise — Disembarkation — Turkish Custom House — Sultan's Firman and its Effects — Our Landlord's History — The Hotel — View from its Roof — Dragomans and Servants — Ex pedition to the Nahr-el-Kelb — Assyrian and Egyptian Rock- Tablets — Sennacherib — Bone breccia — Flints and Teeth — Red Deer and Elks — The Aurochs (Urus), the Unicorn of Scrip ture — Boat Expedition — Sea Fowl — Gorge of the Ancient LycuB — Its'Birds and Plants— Cavern Pools — Fishes — Visit to Daoud Pasha — Scenery of the Lower Spurs of Lebanon — Olive-Trees — Reception by the Pasha — His Justice — Political Views — Druses and Maronites — Education among the Druses — Learned Researches of Daoud Pasha — Mrs. Thompson's Schools in Beyrout — American Mission — Dr, Thomson 1

Chapter II

Departure from Beyrout — Sea-side Wells — Birds of the Shore — Fording a River in the Dark — The Tamyras — Companions and Guides — First Night under Canvas — A Sunday on the Phœnician Shore — Description of our Camp and Attendants— Hamoud the Muleteer — The Sycamore-Tree of Scripture — Its Fruit — Biblical Allusions — Nebi Yunas — Geology of the Hills — Sidon — A Moslem Funeral — The Gardens of Sidon and their Birds — The Gourd of Jonah — Phœnician Tombs in the Hills — Limestone and Flint Deposits — Syrian Country Priest — Thunderstorm — Birds of the Bostrenus — American Mission — Ruins of Sidon — The old Quays— Night under Canvas in a Storm — Swollen Ford 25

Chapter III

Sarepta — Its Traces and Modern Site — The River Leontes— Bridge — Oleander — Contrast of Tyre with Sidon — Desolation — Filth — Ruins in the Sea — The Old Cathedral — Massive Remains — Quarrying of Mines — Tyrian Purple — Shell-Fish — Ancient Sea- Wall — Literal fulfilment of Ezekiel's Prophecy — Hiram's Well — Excursion to Hiram's Tomb — Agriculture of the District — Description of the Tomb — Serpent catching — Local Traditions — Kanah — Winter Flowers— Phœnician Sculptures — Cisterns — Eagles — Coins of Philip and Alexander — Rarity of Jewish Coins — Absence of Phœnician Stone-Work — Wood Sculpture — Ras-el-Ain — Palætyrus— The Ladder of Tyre — Interesting Landscape— Ruined City of Iskanderiyeh — View from Ras en Nakura — Descent into the Plain of Acre CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Page

El Bussah — Birds— The Owl of Scripture— Syrian Christians — Costume of the Women — The Semadi — Syrian Church and Service —Visit to the Sheikh— Description of' his House— The Manger — Nativity of our Lord— Proposal of Marriage — Excursion to Wady Kurn— Fish— Shells— Eagles — Castle of Kulat-el-Kurn — Description — Chronology of the different Bevels on the Stones — Kurn probably a Crusading Fortress — Shrubs and Flowers — Solitary Column — Partridge of Scripture — Superiority of Christian over Moslem Women — An El Bussah Interior — Baths — Feast of Tabernacles — Bees and Hives — Scriptural Allusions — Discovery of an Indian Owl— New Bats — Geology 65

Chapter V

Plain of Acre— Ichneumon — Francolio — Birds and Flowers — City of Acre — River Belus— Discovery of Glass — Shells — Wrecks — The Kishon — Currents— Caiffa Sycaminum — Visit to the Consul — Dilapidated Fortifications — Camping in aCanal — Washed out — The Convent — Its value to Travellers — A Consul's Funeral — Shooting by the Kishon — The Elamingo — Mandrakes — The Wady Zerka — The Crocodde — The Leviathan of Scripture — Swallows in Winter — Panorama from the Convent Roof — Ancient Wine-Presses — Cistern — Underground Granaries — Scriptural Allusions — The Sect of the Metawileh — Freebooters — An useful Example 87

Chapter VI

Tombs in Carmel — Character of the Scenery — Smallness of the Trees — Fossils — Ride along the Top to Esfia — Reception — Visit to a Christian Family — Domestic Arrangements — Ride to Mohraka — Place of Elijah's Sacrifice— Elisha's Altar — View from the Top — Plain of Esdraelon — Historical Associations — Place of Sacrifice — Well and Tree — Swamps — Fording the Kishon — Hills of Galilee — Birds — Arrival at Nazareth — Extension of Nazareth— Precipice — The Well of Nazareth — Bareness of the Hills — Mount of the Precipitation — Iksal, Chisloth — Tabor — Interesting Remains — Raids of the Bedouin — Sufferings of the Peasantry — Tabor and Hermon — Endor — Cave-dwellings — Nain — Burial Ground — Well — An Arab Girl — Geological Phenomena — Basalt — Shunemor Sulem — Zerin, Jezreel — Jenin or Engannim — Palm-trees — Olive-trees — Gardens — Crows — Dothan — Eagles — Passes of Manasseh — Sebustiyeh or Samaria — Church — Long Colonnades — Fulfilment of Prophecy — Heaps of the Field and Vineyards — Stony Hills — Vale of Shechhn — Its Beauty — Arrival at Nablous 106

Chapter VII

Nablous — Its Trade — Cotton — Sunday in the Mission School — Bishop Bowen — Arabic Service — A. Protestant from Gilead — Shalem — Jacob's Well — Associations of the Scene — Value of Wells — Joseph's Tomb— Moisture of Shechem — Gerizim and CONTENTS. PAGE Ebal — Fruit-trees — Joshua's Assembling of Israel — Distance to which Sound Travels — Samaritan Temple — Altar Platform — Landscapes — The Moriah of Abraham — Samaritan Syna gogue — Rolls and Manuscripts — The Priest Amram — Commis sions for Jerusalem 137

Chapter VIII

Plain of Shechem — Lebonah — Alarm of Shepherds — Situation of . Seiliin (Shiloh) Ruins — Reasons for its Selection by Joshua — Variety of Flowers — Ain Haramiyeh, the Robber's Well — Bethel — Ancient Cistern — Frost — Abraham's Camp — Ai — Michmash — Bireh or Beeroth — Crusading Church— Gibeah, Mizpeh, and Ramah — First View of Jerusalem — Russan Hospice — Camp by the Jaffa Gate — A Volunteer Sentry — Missions in Jerusalem — Jewish Converts' Quarter — Bishop Gobat's Schools — English Church — Visit to the Mosque of Omar — The Sakhra — Stone of Sacrifice — El Aksa — Vast Substructures — Immense Stones — Pillars — Arches — Golden Gate — Botany and Ornithology of the Haram — Doves, Ravens, and Crows — The Syrian Mole — Quarries of Jerusalem — Steps in the Rock to the City of David '. 157

Chapter IX

Negotiations with the Sheikhs of the Jordan Valley and Dead Sea — Abou Dahuk — Diplomacy — Sealing the Treaty — Night Storm — Midnight Flitting — Departure for Jericho — Olivet — Bethany — The Apostles' Well — Bareness of the Wilderness of Judæa — Its Geology — New Birds — Wady Kelt — Situation of the Cherith — Sublime Scenery— View of the Plain of Jordan — Ain Sultan — Elisha's Fountain — Beautiful Camp — Birds — Their Number and Beauty — Bulbul— Sunbird — Shells — Plants — Palm and Balsam perished — Mount Quarantania — Native Dance — Sunday Callers — Defeated Freebooters — Women's Dance — A Bridal Party — Ain Duk — Grakle of the Glen — Caves in the Mount of Temptation — Hermits' Cells — Inscriptions and Frescoes — Sepulchres — Difficult ClimbiDg — The old Anchorites — Arian Persecutions 188

Chapter X

Ancient Jericho — Its Traces — Gilgal, probably Er Rihi — Wady Kelt — Herod's Jericho — The Sycamore — A Native Naturalist — Capture of a Wild Boar — Native horror of Pork — Geology of Jericho — Night Scenery — Climate — Ride to the Jordan — Deir Hajla — Beth Hogla — Convent — Sulphur on the Plain — Banks of the Jordan — Its annual Rise — Kurn el Tehudi, St. Jerome's Monastery — Formation of Terraces on the Plain — Effects of Rain and Floods — Ruins — Rock Doves — Native Ideas on Natural History — Ride to Jerusalem in the Rain — Nebi Mousa — Limestone and Chalk Formation — Taamireh Camp— Ruin of a Khan — An Italian Traveller — Return by the Hills of Benjamin — Anathoth — Grottoes — Sheep and Goats— Sunday Rest CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XI. Page

Ride up the Ghor— Boar Hunt— Ruined Aqueducts— Viewof Shittem— Es Sumrah, Zemaraim— Its Quarries— Hyæna Caves — Formation of Bone Breccia— El Aujeh — Phasaelis, Ain Fusail— Kurn Surtabeh— Wolf— Turtle Doves— Lynx— Ride on the Desert Plain— Its Geology and Formation— Departure from Ain Sultan— Revisit the Jordan — Traces of Leopard — Wild Animals— Date Palms— Mouth of the Jordan— Dead Sea Shore— Skeletons of Trees— Mineral Specimens— Birds and Fishes— The Estuary— Island— Doubtful Ruins —Terraces on the Hills— Trap Dyke— Gomorrah of De Saulcy— Ain Feshkhah — Conies — Warm Spring — Character of the Shore — Ras Feshkhah— Bold Headland— Difficult Climbing— Coast Line- Fine Landscape— Sand Spits— Solitary Expedition 233

Chapter XII

Ascent to Marsaba — The Sheikh's Invitation to Dinner — A Bedouin Camp — Reception — Arab Girls — Carpets and Cushions — Coffee-making — Dinner — Huge Dish — Arab Etiquette — Below the Dais — Washing Hands — Squaring Accounts — Mental Arithmetic — Principle of Backshish — Blackmail — Sunday Morning — Convent Bell — Matins— Monks of Marsaba — Severe Rule — Contrast between Roman and Greek Monks — System of Rome — Relics of Martyrs — Pet Wolf — Delays — Non-arrival of the Jehalin — Abou Dahuk — The Archimandrite of Marsaba. — Library — Departure — Wady Ghuweir — Ta'amireh — Fossils — Ain Ghuweir — Ain Terabeh — Its Oasis — New Sparrow — New Raven — Moonlight on the Dead Sea — Map-making — Arab Tales — Walk to Ain Jidy — Bitumen 255

Chapter XIII

Dead Sea — Sulphur Springs — Description of Ain Jidy — Engedi — Hazezon — Tamar — Plain — Trees — Apple of Sodom — Rashayideh Arabs — Hungry Bivouac on the Plain — Retreat to a Cave — Dreary Night — Meeting Friends — Moonlight — Return — Want of Water— Difficulties of the Caravan — Fountain of Engedi — Arab Acquaintances — Wady Sudeir — Lovely Grotto — Palm-trees — Ferns — Conflagration — Wady Areyeh — Ascent of Ras Sudeir — Ancient Vineyards — Reports of War — Salt-making — Wild Goats — Allusions to Engedi in the Psalms of David — Canticles — Camphire '. 277

Chapter XIV

Ride from Engedi to Masada— Sulphur Springs — Wady Khuderah — Wells dry — Halt under Sebbeh — Ascent to the Fortress — Its Height— Its Tragical History — Access — Roman Causeway — Description of the Ruins — Chapel — Crusading Remains — Cisterns — Magnificent View — Roman Camp — Capture of Ibex — Wady Um Bagkhek — Water — Lovely Glen— Ruins— De Saulcy's Thamara— Salt Springs — Camp Zuweirah — Plants — Jebel Usdum — Mountain of Salt — Difficulty of Ascent — Extent of the Rock Salt Ridge — Theory — Geological Speculations — Similarity to the Sahara — Destruction of Sodom CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XV. Page

Departure from Zuweirah for the Safieh— Jebel Usdum— The Sebkha or Salt Marsh — Its Rivers and Birds — False Alarm — Oasis of Feifeh — Belt of Reeds— Capture of Prisoners — Vege tation and Luxuriance of the Ghor es Safieh — A Burning Vil lage — General Pillage — Dead Bodies — Indigo — Arab Ideas of Morals — Council of War — Causes of Fertility — Streams — En Nimeirah — Ruined Sugar Mills — Crusading Traces — Geology — Sandstone and Trap — Determination to return — Sirocco Wind — Night Watches — Ravens — Camp at Zuweirah — Abou Dahuk — Hamzi — Saul and David — Jehalin Guard, an inferior Caste — Method of Baking — Indolence — Poor and Aged — Zuweirah — Ruined Fortress and Archway — Cistern — Our Bath — Shrimps — Wady Mahawat — Singular Deposit — Sulphur and Bitumen — Method of the Destruction of Sodom — Natural and Super natural Agencies — Absence of Volcanic Traces — The Cities of the Plain not submerged — Arguments for their position at the South — at the North — Superiority of the latter — Plain of Jeri cho—Zoar 325

Chapter XVI

Departure from the Dead Sea — Description of the Lisan — The Negeb, or South Country — Hadadah — Zuweirah el Foka — Sudeid — Birds — Dotterel — Rujum Selamel (Shema) — Wilderness of Judah — Abou Dahuk's tempting Proposal — Offer of a Bedouin Wife— El Mihlha (Moladah)— Wells — Ruins— Cranes — Sand Grouse — Beersheba, — Horned Cattle — Cultivation — The Wells — Insurgents — Their Qhief, Mohammed Isa— Ruins — Turkish Foray — Flight into the Wilderness — Arab Warfare — Proposals for the Pasha — Sudden collection of Warriors — Precipitate Retreat from Beersheba — Tell Hhora— Its Well — Ruins — The Hill Country of Judah — Attir (Jattir) — Rafat — Semua (Eshtema) Turkish Officer— Susieh — Yattah (Juttah) — Maon — Kurmul (Carmel) — The Convoy lost — Ride in the Darkness — Perils of the Way — Hebron at Night — Sheikh Hamzi's House — Nocturnal Invasion— Hospitable Reception — Changes of Raiment 359

Chapter XVII

Hebron — Abraham's Oak — The Haram — Cave of Machpelah— Antiquity of the Wall— Manufactures— Glass — Leathern Bottles — The Upper and Nether Springs — Dura (Adoraim) — Rameh —Well— Mamre— View of the Ghor— Road— El Burak— Solomon's Pools — Ducks — Urtas (Ethan) — Gardens of Solomon — Ancient Baths — Frank Mountain — Herodium — Tekoa — Adullam— Giacomo Lost— A Night on the Hills— Bethlehem — Women — Flowers — Rachel's Tomb — Jerusalem — Settlement with Hamzi — Arab Avarice and Cunning — Tombs— Entrance to Tombs of the Kings — Rolling away the Stone — Ride to Jaffa— M.'s Departure — Ramleh — Fruit Trees — Persecution — Domestic Changes — Signs of Spring — Agriculture — Plains of Ephraim (Mokhna) — Lepers — The Pasha's Harem — Samur — Lake — Women of Nazareth CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XVIII. Page

Departure from Nazareth— Ride by Mount Tabor— Beauties of Spring— Deer— Agyle Agha's Camp— Basaltic Ridges— Ard-el- Hamma— Bedouin Camps — First View of the Sea of Galilee — Tiberias — Jewish Sabbath — Costumes— Gennesaret by Moonlight — Mode of Fishing— Shoals of Fish— Cinereous Vulture — Mission-Work and Difficulties— Rabbinical Learning — Jewish University — Mineral Hot Baths — Boat on the Lake — Entrance of the Jordan— Buffaloes— Birds— Storm on the Lake— A Night at Sea— Friends at Tibereas— Midnight Walk— Camp at Mejdel (Magdala)— Geological Formation of the District — Basalt — View — Flowers — Butterflies — Shells — Ain Mudawara (the Round Fountain) — Its Fishes— Survey of the Shore — Ain Tin — Khan Minyeh — Papyrus — Ain Tabighah — Tell Hum — Naked Fishermen — Upper Ghor — Bethsaida or Julias — Feeding the Five Thousand — Identification of Ancient Sites — Josephus— Fishes — Bethsaida and Chorazin 406

Chapter XIX

Plain of Gennesaret — Wady Sellamah — Wady Leimun — Fine Gorge — Caves — Birds — Wady Hamam — Bird-nesting — Rope-climbing — Wild Animals — Kulat Ibn Maan — Robbers' Caves — Friendly Neighbourhood — Arab Fray — Funeral — Hattin — Crusaders' Defeat — Cheerful Village — Children — Departure of U. and S. — Om Dragoman deserts us — -Visit to Agyle Agha — Arab Feast — Presentation Ceremonies — Wady Bireh — Castle of Belfort — Geology of the Ghor — Bridge across the Jordan — Sinuosity of the River — The Yarmuk (Hieromax) — Inundation of Basalt — Sulphurous Springs — A math a, — Um Keis — Ruins of Gadara — Field of Tombs — Stone Doors — Scene of the Miracle of the Healing of the Demoniac, not Gadara, but Gergesa — Its Situation — Route from Gadara — Loveliness of the Country — Oaks of Bashan — Cultivation — Alarms of Husbandmen — Taiyibeh — Dinner with Village Sheikh — Arrival at Tibneh 435

Chapter XX

Description of Tibneh— City Square — Princely Sheikh — The Town Hall — Reception— Coffee-making — Primitive Lamp — Politics and Wars of Tibneh— El Kureh — Panorama from our Camp — Native Christians — The Sheikh's House— Our Visit — Barbaric Splendour— Presents— Forest of Ajlun— Its Beauty— Contrast of Eastern and Western Palestine— Reverend Guards — A Bedouin Raid — Fallahin Pursuers — Doubiah — 'Abbin — Suf — Sheikh Yusuf— Certificates of Character — Difficulties— Extortion and Insults — Position of our Camp — Threatened Attack Military Manœuvres — Diplomatic Skill of Mr. Z. — Threats Escape — Sheikh Usu our Guard — Alone in the Forest — Detour to the East — Fertile Plain— Beni Hassan Freebooters — Mahneh the ancient Mahanaim — Its possible Site— Return to Taiyibeh— Descent to the Ghor— Bedouin on the Move— Fishes Huleh Lily— Arrival at Caiffa— B.'s Departure— Tribes of the CONTENTS.

XVII Ghor— Hhawarah— Hinadeh — S'hoor-el-Ghor — Sakk'r — Sar diyeh — 'Abba'at— Ghawarineh — Ta'amireh — Rashayideh — Je halin — Beni Sakk'r— Beni Hassan — Adwan — Beni Hamedi — Origin of the Beni Sakk'r— Political Prospects of Palestine 458

Chapter XXI

Carmel in Spring— Its Trees and Flowering Shrubs — Flowers and Birds — Plain of Acre — A Nomad School — Return to Nazareth — Tiberias — Camp at the Round Fountain — Spring Birds of Gennesaret — Ascent of Tabor — Ride to Beisan (Bethshean) — Ruins — Khan— Citadel — Theatre — Panoramic View — Recollections of the Past — Present Degradation of Beisan — Gilboa — Nablous — Samaritan Synagogue — Service — Ramallah — Misfortunes of Abou Dahuk — Solitary Life at Jericho — Nocturnal Visit of Adwan — Summer Birds of Jericho — Gorge of the Wady Kelt — Return to Jerusalem — Visits to the Synagogues — Expedition of the Due de Luynes — Adwan Sheikhs 484

Chapter XXII

Negotiations with the Adwan — Descent to the Ghor — Crossing the Jordan — Nimrin — Bethnimrah and Bethabarah — The Crossing of Elijah and Elisha— Spot where Elijah was taken up — Keferein — Probably identical with Abel Shittim — Plains of Shittim — Camp of Israel — Beth Jesimoth — Faithfulness of the Adwan — Nocturnal Visitors — Ride to Arak el Emir — Views of the Western Side — Ravine of Seir — Oleanders — Wild Boars — Arak el Emir — Ruins of Hyrcanus' Palace — Colossal Sculptures — Stables and Halls in the Cliff — Beauty and Richness of the Countiy — The ancient Jazer — Naur — Wady Heshban — Saracenic Castle — Ruins of Hunah — Mountains of Moab — Abarim — Nebo — Position of Pisgah not Jebel Attarus — Glorious Panorama from the top of Pisgah — Heshbon — Ruins and Fishpools — Ma'in — Elealah 507 CHAPTER XXIH.

Ruined Villages between Heshbon and Amman — Countless Flocks — Valley of Amman (Rabbah) — Its Ruins — Description of the Site — The Ancient Citadel — Cathedrals, Temples, Theatres — Perfect Byzantine Church — Fulfilment of Prophecy— Es Salt — Ramoth Gilead — Lovely Valley — Christians at Es Salt — Ruined Castle — Independence of Es Salt — Mount Gilead — Tomb of Hosea — Magnificent View — Park-like Beauty of Gilead — The Jabbok — Its Ford — Esau and Jacob— Gypsies — Ravages of the Bedouin — Gerash (Gerasa) — Its Streets and Buildings — Wonderful Perfection of its Remains — Restitution from Suf — Adieu to the Adwan — Ajlun — Kulat er Rubud — The Yabis — Jabesh-Gilead— El Fahil (Pella)— Beit Idis— Christian Blacksmith — El Kurah — Isolated Agricultural District — Peacefulness — A False Alarm — General Panic— Fertility of the Eastern Ghor — Numerous Streams— Palm-tree — Birds — Arab Horsemen — Their Salutations— The Bridge of the Jordan CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV. Page

Halt at Agyle's Camp — Return to Nazareth — Greek Christian Wedding — Gennesaret in Summer — Arab Natural History — Fish of the Lake — Connection with Africa — Safed — Jews — Small Paper Currency — Geology — Kedes (Kedesh Naphtali) — Natural Riches of the Country — Beth-Rehob — The Upper Jordan — Tell Kady (Dan) — Sources of the Jordan, upper and lower — Banias (Cæsarea Philippi) — Booths on the Houses — Sacred Reminiscences (Castle of Banias) — Birket er Ram (Lake Phiala) — Marshes of the Huleh — Ghawarineh— Cotton Cultivation — Sukeik (Seleucia) — Herons — Impenetrable Swamp— Water Lily — Papyrus — Druse Labourers — Buffaloes — The Lake of Huleh (Waters of Merom) — Harvest Time — Parched Com — Note on Palestine Agriculture and Crops 563