[The Lands of the Saracen.] Pictures of Palestine, Asia Minor, Sicily, and Spain; or, the Lands of the Saracen

Front matter

DAMASCUS-DISTANT «TT*W FROM THE MOUNTAIN SIDI A N Cl C N ' CED A R S I N TH f FO R FS I 0 F I t B A H 0 N VtWrORK, G P PUTNAM J £'" THE LANDS OF THE SABACEN; on, PICTURES OF PALESTINE, ASIA MINOR SICILY, AND SPAIN B? BAYARD TAYLOR. NEW- YORK. G. P. PUTNAM & CO... 321 BROADWAY. LONDON . SU1PSON LOW, SON & CO. 1857. Extikeb according to Act ot Congress, in the year 18S6, by G. P. PUTNAM & 00., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District al New York. \0 WASHINGTON IRVING, This book— the ti ... ' ugh lands once occupied by tha Saracens — naturally dedica roiE"K*Jio*c more than any other Americau author, have revived tbe tr;1 Jiu-j-is, restored *' ., , and illustrated the character of that brilliant and heroic pe pie. You* cordial encouragement confirmed me In my design of visiting the East, an I making myself familial' with Oriental life ; and though I bring you now but imperfect returns, fccan at least unite with you in admiration of a field bo rich in romantic interest, and indulge the hope that I may one day pluck from it fruit instead of blosflOEQS.

Tn Spain, I came upon your track, and I should hesitate to exhibit my i _a There you have harvested, were it not for the belief that the rapid sketches I have given will but enhance, by the contrast, the charm of your finished picture, BAYARD TAYLOR. PREF-A CE. This volume comprises the second portion of a series of travels, of which the " Journey to Central Africa," already published, is the first part. I left home, intending to spend a winter in Africa, and to return during the following summer ; but circumstan ces afterwards occurred, which prolonged my wan derings to nearly two years and a half, and led me to visit many remote and unexplored portions of the globe. To describe this journey in a single work, would embrace too many incongruous elements, to say nothing of its great length, and as it falls naturally into three parts, or episodes, of very distinct character, I have judged it best to group my experiences under three separate heads, merely indicating the links which connect them.

This work includes my travels in Pales tine, Syria, Asia Minor, Sicily and Spain, and will be followed by a third and concluding volume, containing my adventures in India, China, the Loo-Choo Islands, VI

Preface

. and Japan. Although many of the letters, contained in this volume, describe beaten tracks of travel, I have always given my own individual impressions, and may claim for them the merit of entire sincerity. The journey from Aleppo to Constantinople, through the heart of Asia Minor, illustrates regions rarely traversed by tourists, and will, no doubt, be new to most of my readers. My aim, throughout the work, has been to give correct pictures of Oriental life and scenery, leaving antiquarian research and speculation to abler bands. The scholar, or the man of science, may complain with reason that I have neglected valuable opportunities for adding something to the stock of human knowledge : but if a few of the many thousands, who can only travel by their firesides, should find my pages answer the purpose of a series of cosmoramic views — should in them behold with a clearer inward eye the hills of Pales tine, the sun-gilded minarets of Damascus, or the lonely pine-forests of Thrygia — should feel, by turns, some thing of the inspiration and the indolence of the Orient — I shall have achieved all I designed, and more than I can justly hope. g JVOsiA) New York, October, l_i CONTENTS

Chapter I. Life In

A SYRIAN QUARANTINE. Toyage from Alexandria to Beyrout — Landing at Quarantine — The Guaruiano — Om Quarters — Our Companions — Famine and Feasting — The Morning — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo— Sunday in Quarantine— Islamism — We are Registered — "Cove through a Grating — Trumpets — The Mystery Explained — Delights of Quarantine — Oriental t>* American Exaggeration — A Discussion of Politics — Our Release — Beyrout — Preparations for the Pilgrimage If

Chapter II. The Coast Of Palestine

The Pilgrimage Commences — The Muleteers — The Mules — The Donkey— Journey t Sidon — The Foot of Lebanon — Pictures — The Ruins of Tyre — A Wild Morning — Tht Tyrian Surges — Climbing the Ladder of Tyre — Panorama of the Bay of Acre— Tht Plain of Esdraelon — Camp in a Garden — Acre — the Shore of the Bay — Haifa — Mount Carmel and its Monastery— A Deserted Coast— The Ruins of Cæsarea— The Scenery of Palestine — We become Robbers— El Haram— Wrecks— the Harbor and Town of Jaffa M

Chapter III. From Jaffa To Jerusalem

The Garden of Jaffa— Breakfast at a Fountain— The Plain of Sharon— The Ruined Mosque of Ramleh— A Judean Landscape— The Streets of Ramleh— Am I in Pale*- CONTENTS. tine r— A Heavenly Morning— The Land of Milk and Honey— Entering the Hill- Country— The Pilgrim's Breakfast— The Father of Lies— A Church of the Crusaders —The Agriculture of the Hills— The Valley of Elah— Day-Dreams— The Wilderness —The Approach— We See tie Holy City *8

Chapter IV. The Dead Sea And The River Jordan

Bargaining for a Guard— Departure from Jerusalem— The Hill of Offence— Bethany— The Grotto of Lazarus— The Valley of Fire— Scenery of the Wilderness— The Hills of Engaddi— The shore of the Dead Sea. — A Bituminous Bath — Gallop to the iordan — A watch for Robbers— The Jordan— Baptism— The Plains of Jericho— The Fountain of Elisha— The Mount of Temptation— Return to Jerusalem .... 60

Chapter V. The City Ofchrist

Modern Jerustftim— The Site of the City— Mount Zion— Mount Moriah— The Temple— The Valley of lehosaphat— The Olives of Gethsemane— The Mount of Olives— Moslem Tradition — Panorama from the Summit — The Interior of the City — The Population — Missions and Missionaries — Christianity in Jerusalem — Intolerance — The Jews of Jerusalem— The Face of Christ— The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Holy of Holies — The Sacred Localities — Visions of Christ — The Mosque of Omar — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo— Preparations for Departure . . ..... 72 chapter: vi. THE HILL-COUNTRY OF PALESTINE. Leaving Jerusalem— The Tombs of the Kings— El Bireh — The Hill-Country— First View of Mount Hermon — The Tomb of Joseph — Ebal and Gerizim — The Gardens of Nablous— The Samaritans— The Sacred Book— A Scene in the Synagogue — Mentor and Telemachus— Ride to Samaria — The Ruins of Sebaste — Scriptural Landscapes- Halt at Genin— The Plain of Esdraelon— Palestine and California — The Hills of Nazareth— Accident— Fra Joachim— The Church of the Virgin— The Shrine of the Annunciation — The Holy Places . 88

Chapter VII. The Country Of Galilee

Departure from Nazareth— A Christian Guide— Ascent of Mount Tabor— Wallachlan Hermlts-The Panorama of Tabor-Ride to Tlberla«-A Bath In Genesareth-Th. CONTENTS. IX Flowers of Galilee — The Mount of Beatitude— Magdala— Joseph's Well— Meeting with a Turk— The Fountain of the Salt-Works— The Upper Valley of the Jordan — Summer Scenery— The Rivers of Lebanon— Tell el-Kadi— An Arcadian Region— The Fountains of Banias * 103

Chapter VIII. Crossing The Anti-lebanon

The Harmless Guard— Cæsarea Philippi— The Valley of the Druses— The Sides of Mount Hermon — An Alarm — Threading a Defile — Distant view of Djebel Hauaran — Another Alarm— Camp at Katana— We Ride into Damascus 115

Chapter IX. Pictures Of Damascus

Damascus from the Anti-Lebanon — Entering the City — A Diorama of Bazaars — An Oriental Hotel — Our Chamber — The Bazaars — Pipes and Coffee — The Rivers of Damascus — Palaces of the Jews — Jewish Ladies — A Christian Gentleman — The Sacred Localities — Damascus Blades — The Sword of Haroun AI-Raschid — An Arrival from Palmyra 120

Chapter XII. Baalbec And Lebanon

Departure from Damascus — The Fountains of the Pharpar — Pass of tte Anti- Lebanon — Adventure with the Druses— The Range of Lebanon — The Demon of Hasheesh departs — Impressions of Baalbec— The Temple of the Sun — Titanic Masonry— The Ruined Mosque — Camp on Lebanon — Rascality of the Guide — The Summit of Lebanon — The Sacred Cedars — The Christians of Lebanon — An Afternoon in Eden — Rugged Travel— We Reach the Coast— Return to Beyrout . .... 161 7(7 X CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV. Journey To Antioch And Aleppo

Change of Plans— Routes to Baghdad— Asia Minor— We sail from Beyrout— Yachting on the Syrian Coast— Tartus and Latakiyeh— The Coasts of Syria— The Bay of Suediah— The Mouth of the Orontes— Landing— The Garden of Syria— Ride to Antioch —The Modern City— The Plains of the Orontes— Remains of the Greek Empire— The Ancient Road— The Plain of Keftin— Approach to Aleppo 186

Chapter XV. Life In Aleppo

0*or Entry Into Aleppo— We are conducted to a House— Our Unexpected Welcome — The Mystery Explained— Aleppo— Its Name— Its Situation— The Trade of Aleppo— The Christians— The Revolt of 1850— Present Appearance of the City— Visit to Osman Pasha — The Citadel— View from the Battlements — Society in Aleppo— Etiquette and Costume — Jewish Marriage Festivities— A Christian Marriage Procession — Ride around the Town — Nightingales — The Aleppo Button — A Hospital for Cats — Ferhat Pasha 196

Chapter XVI. Through The Syrian Gates

An Inauspicious Departure— The Ruined Church of St. Simon— The Plain of Antioch— A Turcoman Encampment — Climbing Akma Dagh — The Syrian Gates — Scanderoon — An American Captain — Revolt of the Koords— We take a Guard— The Field of Issus — The Robber-Chief, Kutchuk Ali— A Deserted Town— A Land of Gardens . . 215

Chapter XVII. Adana And Tarsus

The Black Gate— The Plain of Cilicia— A Koord Village— Missis— Cillclan Scenery- Arrival at Adana — Three days in Quarantine — We receive Pratique — A Landscape — The Plain of Tarsus— The River Cydnus— A Vision of Cleopatra— Tarsus and its Environs -The Duniktash— The Moon of Ramazan . ... CONTENTS. XI >.

Chapter XVIII. The Pass Of Mount Taurus

enter the Taurus — Turcomans — Forest Scenery — the Palace of Pan — Khan Mezarluk — Morning among the Mountains — The Gorge of the Cydnus — The Crag of the Fortress — The Cilician Gate — Deserted Forts — A Sublime Landscape — The Gorge of the Sihoon — The Second Gate — Camp in the Defile — Sunrise — Journey up the Sihoon — A Change of Scenery — A Pastoral Valley — Kolii Kushla — A Deserted Khan — A Guest in Ramazan — Flowers — The Plain of Karamania— Barren Hills— The Town of Eregli— The Hadji again . - 230

Chapter XIX. The Plains Of Karamania

-feBe Plains of KaramaDia — Afternoon Heat — A Well — Volcanic Phenomona — Karamania — A Grand Ruined Khan — Moonlight Picture — A Landscape of the Plains — Mirages — A Short Interview — The Village of Ismil — Third Day on the Plains — Approach to Konia 2^0

Chapter XX. Scenes In Konia

Approach to Konia — Tomb of Hazret Mevlana — Lodgings in a Khan — An American Luxury — A Night-Scene in Ramazan — Prayers in the Mosque — Remains of the Ancient City — View from the Mosque — The Interior — A Leaning Minaret — The Diverting History of the Muleteers 256

Chapter XXI. The Heart Of Asia Minor

Scenery of the Hills— Ladik, the Ancient Laodlcea— The Plague of Gad-Flies— Camp at Hgun— A Natural Warm Bath— The Gad-Flies Again— A Summer Landscape— Ak- Sheher— The Base of Sultan Dagh— The Fountain of Midas— A Drowsy Journey— The Town of Bolawadiin 263

Chapter XXII. The Forests Of Phrygia

The Frontier of Phrygia— Ancient Quarries and Tombs— We Enter the Pine Forests— A Guard-House— Encampments of the Turcomans— Pastoral Scenery— A Summer Vil- CONTENTS. lage— The Valley of the Tombs— Rock Sepulchres of the Phrygian Kings— The Titan'J Camp— The Valley of. Kiimbeh— A Land of Flowers— Turcoman Hospitality— The Exiled Effendis— The Old Turcoman— A Glimpse of Arcadia— A Landscape— Interested Friendship— The Valley of the Pursek— Arrival at Kiutahya ... 274

Chapter XXIII. Kiutahya, And The Ruins Of

ŒZANI. Entrance into Kiutahya —The New Khan— An Unpleasant Discovery— Kiutahya— The Citadel-Panorama from the Walls— The Gorge of the Mountains— Camp in a Meadow— The Valley of the Rhyndacus— Chavdur— The Ruins of Œzani— The Acropolis and Temple— The Theatre and Stadium— Ride down the Valley— Camp at Daghj- K6i 2»°

Chapter XXIV. The Mysian Olympus

Journey Down the Valley— The Plague of Grasshoppers— A Defile— The Town of Tauehanlu— The Camp of Famine — We leave the Rhyndacus— The Base of Olympus — Primeval Forests — The Guard-House — Scenery of the Summit — Forests of Beech — Saw-Mills — Descent of the Mountain — The View of Olympus — Morning — The Land of Harvest— Aineghiol — A Showery Ride — The Plain of Brousa — The Structure of Olym- 'pus— We reach Brousa— The Tent is Furled 800

Chapter XXV. Brousa And The Sea Of Marmora

The City of Brousa— Return to Civilization — Storm— The Kalputcha Hammam — A Hot Bath— A Foretaste of Paradise— The Streets and Bazaars of Brousa — The Mosque— The Tombs of the Ottoman Sultans— Disappearance of the Katurgees— We start for Moudania — The Sea of Marmora — Moudania — Passport Difficulties — A Greek C-iIque — Breakfast with the Fishermen — A Torrid Voyage — The Princes* Islands — Prinkipo — Distant View of Constantinople — We enter the Golden Horn .... 812

Chapter XXVI. The Night Of Predestination

Constantinople In Ramazan— The Origin of the Fast— Nightly Illuminations— The Night of Predestination— The 0 olden Horn at Night— Blumination of the Shores— The CONTENTS. XIII Cannon of Constantinople— A Fiery Panorama— The Sultan's Caique— Close of the Celebration— A Turkish Mob— The Dancing Dervishes .... 824

Chapter XXVII. The Solemnities Of Bairam

The Appearance of the New Moon— The Festival of Bairam— The Interior of the Seraglio— The Pomp of the Sultan's Court— Rescind Pasha— The Sultan's Dwarf- Arabian Stallions— The Imperial Guard— Appearance of the Sultan— The Inner Court —Return of the Procession— The Sultan on his Throne— The Homage of the Pashas —An Oriental Picture — Kissing the Scarf— The Shekh el-Islam— The Descendant of the Caliphs — Bairam Commences 88S

Chapter XXVIII. The Mosques Of Constantinople

Bqjourn at Constantinople — Semi-European Character of the City — The Mosque — Procuring a Firman — The Seraglio— The Library — The Ancient Throne-Room — Admit tance to St. Sophia. — Magnificence of the Interior — The Marvellous Dome — The Mosque of Sultan Achmed — The Sulemanye — Great Conflagrations — Political Meaning of the Fires — Turkish Progress — Decay of the Ottoman Power . . . 348

Chapter XXIX. Farewell To The Orien

T — M A L T A . Embarcation— Farewell to the Orient— Leaving Constantinople — A Wreck— The Dardanelles — Homeric Scenery— Smyrna Revisited— The Grecian Isles — Voyage to Malta —Detention— La Valetta— The Maltese— The Climate— A Boat for Sicily . . 865

Chapter XXX. The Festival Of St

AGATHA. Departure from Malta— The Speronara— Our Fellow-Passengers— The First Night on Board— Sicily— Scarcity of Provisions— Beating in the Calabrian Channel— The Fourth Morning— The Gulf of Catania — A Sicilian Landscape— The Anchorage— The Suspected List— The Streets of Catania— Biography of St. Agatha— The Illuminations —The Procession of the Veil— The Biscari Palace— The Antiquities of Catania— The Convent of St. Nicola ... 8ej CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXI. The Eruption Of Mount Etna

The Mountain Threatens— The Signs Increase— We Leave Catania— Gardens Among the Lava— Etna Labors— Aci Reale— The Groans of Etna— The Eruption— Gigantic Tree of Smoke— Formation of the New Crater— We Lose Sight of the Mountain— Arrival at Messina— Etna is Obscured— Departure 875

Chapter XXXII. Gibraltar

Unwritten Links of Travel— Departure from Southampton— The Bay of Biscay— Cintra ' Trafalgar — Gibraltar at Midnight— Landing — Search for a Palm-Tree — A Brilliant Morning— The Convexity of the Earth— Sun-Worship— The Rock ... 888

Chapter XXXIII. Cadiz And Seville

Voyage to Cadiz— Landing— The City— Its Streets— The Women of Cadiz— Embarkation for Seville — Scenery of the Guadalquivir — Custom House Examination — The Guide— The Streets of Seville— The Giralda— The Cathedral of Seville— The Alcazar- Moorish Architecture — Pilate's House — Morning View from the Giralda — Old Wine — Murillos — My Last Evening in Seville ... 891

Chapter XXXIV. Journey In

A SPANISH DILIGENCE. Spanish Diligence Lines— Leaving Seville— An Unlucky Start— Alcala of the Bakers- Dinner at Carmona— A Dehesa— The Mayoral and his Team— Ecija— Night Journey —Cordova— The Cathedral-Mosque— Moorish Architecture— The Sierra Morena— A Rainy Journey— A Chapter of Accidents— Baylen— The Fascination of Spain— Jaen — The Vega of Granada 408

Chapter XXXV. Granada And The Alhambra

Mateo Xlmenez, the Younger— The Cathedral of Granada— A Monkish Miracle— Cathollo Shrines— Military Cherubs— The Royal Chapel— The Tombs of Ferdinand and Isa- CONTENTS. XV bella — Chapel of San Juan de Dios — The Albaycin — View ot the Vega — The Generalise — The Alhambra — Torra de la Vela — The Walls and Towers — A Visit to Old Mateo — The Court of the Fish-pond — The Halls of the Alhambra — Character of the Architec ture^ — Hall of the Abencerrages — Hall of the Two Sisters — The Moorish Dynasty ia Spain 414

Chapter XXXVI. The Bridle-roads Oe Andalusia

Change of Weather — Napoleon and his Horses — Departure from Granada — My Guide, Jos6 Garcia — His Domestic Troubles — The Tragedy of the Umbrella — The Vow against Aguardiente — Crossing the Vega — The Sierra Nevada — The Baths of Alhama — " Woe is Me, Alhama I" — The Valley of the River Velez — Velez Malaga — The Coast Road — The Fisherman and his Donkey — Malaga — Summer Scenery — The Story of Don Pedro, without Fear and without Care — The Field of Monda— A Lonely Venta . . 42? CHAPTER XXXVII1. THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA. Orange Valleys — Climbing the Mountains — Jose's Hospitality— El Burgo — The Gate of the Wind— The Cliff and Cascades of Ronda — The Mountain Region — Traces of the Moors — Haunts of Robbers — A Stormy Ride — The Inn at Gaucin — Bad News — A Boyish Auxiliary — Descent from the Mountains — The Ford of the Guadiaro— Our Fears Relieved — The Cork Woods — Ride from San Roque to Gibraltar— Parting with Jose — Travelling in Spain— Conclusion ........ sHE LANDS OF THE SARACEN.

Chapter I. Life In

A SYRIAN QUARANTINE. Voyage from Alexandria to Beyrout— Landing at Quarantine — The Guardiano — Our Quarters — Our Companions — Famine and Feasting — The Morning — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo — Sunday in Quarantine — Islamism — We ai*e Registered — Love through a Grating — Trumpets — The Mystery Explained — Delights of Quarantine — Oriental TS. American Exaggeration — A Discussion of Politics — Our Release — Beyrout — Preparations for the Pilgrimage. " The mountains look on Quarantine, And Quarantine looks on the sea." Quarantine MS. In Quarantine, Beyeodt, ) Saturday, April IT, 1852. i Everybody has heard of Quarantine, but in our favored country there are many untravelled persons who do not precisely know what it is, and who no doubt wonder why it should be such a bugbear to travellers in the Orient.

I confess I am still somewhat in the same predicament myself, although I have already been twenty-four hours in Quarantine. But, as a peculiarity of the place is, that one can do nothing, nowever good a will he has, I propose to set down my expe riences each day, hoping that I and my readers may obtain some insight into the nature Of Quarantine, before the term of my probation is over. I left Alexandria on the afternoon of the 14th inst., in corn pany with Mr. Carter Harrison, a fellow-countryman, who had joined me in Cairo, for the tour through Palestine. We had a head wind and rough sea, and I remained in a torpid state during most of the voyage. There was rain the second night ; but, when the clouds cleared away yesterday morning, we were gladdened by the sight of Lebanon, whose summits glittered with streaks of snow.

The lower slopes of the mountains were green with fields and forests, and Beyrout, when we ran up to it, seemed buried almost out of sight, in the foliage of its mulberry groves. The town is built along the northern side of a peninsula, which projects about two miles from the main line of the coast, forming a road for vessels. In half an hour after our arrival,' several large boats came along side, and we were told to get our baggage in order and embark for Quarantine. The time necessary to purify a tra veller arriving from Egypt from suspicion of the plague, is five days, but the days of arrival and departure are counted, so that the durance amounts to but three full days. The captain of the Osiris mustered the passengers together, and informed them that each one would be obliged to pay six piastres for the transportation of himself and his baggage Two heavy lighters are now drawn up to the foot of the gangway, but as soon as the first box tumbles into them, the men tumble out.

They attach the craft by cables to two smaller boats, in which they sit, to tow the infected loads. We are all sent down together, Jews, Turks, and Christians— a confused pile of men, women, children, and goods. A little boat from LANDING AT QUARANTINE, 19 the city, in which there are representatives from the two hotels, hovers around us, and cards are thrown to us. The zealous agents wish to supply us immediately with tables, oeds, and all other household appliances; but we decline their help until we arrive at the mysterious spot. At last we float off — two lighters full of infected, though respectable, material, towed by oarsmen of most scurvy appearance, but free from every suspicion of taint. The sea is still rough, the sun is hot, and a fat Jewess becomes sea-sick. An Italian Jew rails at the boatmen ahead, in the Neapolitan patois, for the distance is long, the Quaran tine being on the land-side of Beyrout.

We see the rows of little yellow houses on the cliff, and with great apparent risk of being swept upon the breakers, are tugged into a small cove, where there is a landing-place. Nobody is there to receive us; the boatmen jump into the water and push the b'ghters against the stone stairs, while we unload our own baggage. A tin cup filled with sea-water is placed before us, and we each drop six piastres into it — for money, strange as it may seem, is infec tious. By this time, the guardianos have had notice of our arrival, and we go up with them to choose our habitations. There are several rows of one-story houses overlooking the sea, each containing two empty rooms, to be had for a hundred piastres; but a square two-story dwelling stands apart from them, and the whole of it may be had for thrice that sum.

There are seven Frank prisoners, and we take it for ourselves. But the rooms are bare, the kitchen empty, and we learn the important fact, that Quarantine is durance vile, without even the bread and water. The guardiano says the agents ot the hotel are at the gate, and we can order from them whatever we want. Certainly; but at their own price, for we are wholly at their mercy. However, we go down stairs, and the chief officer, who accompanies us, gets into a corner as we pass, and holds a stick before him to keep us off. He is now clean, but if his garments brush against ours, he is lost. The people we meet in the grounds step aside with great respect to let us pass, but if we offer them our hands, no one would dare to touch a finger's tip. Here is the gate : a double screen of wire, with an interval between, so that contact is impossible.

There is a crowd of individuals outside, all anxious to execute commissions. Among them is the agent of the hotel, who proposes to fill our bare rooms with furniture, send us a servant and cook, and charge us the same as if we lodged with him. The bargain is closed at once, and he hurries off to make the arrangements. It is now four o'clock, and the bracing air of the headland gives a terrible appetite to those of us who, hke me, have been sea sick and fasting for forty-eight hours. But there is no food within the Quarantine except a patch of green wheat, and a well in the limestone rock. We two Americans join company with our room-mate, an Alexandrian of Italian parentage, who has come to Beyrout to be married, and make the tour of our territory. There is a path along the cliffs overhanging the sea, with glorious views of Lebanon, up to his snowy top, the pine forests at his base, and the,, long cape whereon the city lies at full length, reposing beside the waves.

The Mahommedans and Jews, in companies of ten (to save expense), are lodged in the smaller dwellings, where they have already aroused mil lions of fleas from their state of torpid expectancy. Wo return, and take a survey of our companions in the pavilion : a FAMINE AND FEASTING. 21 French woman, with two ugly and peevish children (one at the breast), in the next room, and three French gentlemen in the other — a merchant, a young man with hair of extraordinary length, and a filateur, or silk-manufacturer, middle-aged and cynical. The first is a gentleman in every sense of the word, the latter endurable, but the young Absalom is my aversion. I am subject to involuntary likings and dislikings, for which I can give no reason, and though the man may be in every way amiable, his presence is very distasteful to me.

We take a pipe of consolation, but it only whets our appe tites. We give up our promenade, for exercise is still worse ; and at last the sun goes down, and yet no sign of dinner. Our pavilion becomes a Tower of Famine, and the Italian recites Dante. Finally a strange face appears at the door. By Api cius ! it is a servant from the hotel, with iron bedsteads, camp tables, and some large chests, which breathe an odor of the Commissary Department. We go stealthily down to the kitchen, and watch the unpacking. Our dinner is there, sure enough, but alas 1 it is not yet cooked. Patience is no more : my companion manages to filch a raw onion and a crust of bread, which we share, and roll under our tongues as a sweet morsel, and it gives us strength for another hour. The Greek dragoman and cook, who are sent into Quarantine for our sakes, take compassion on us ; the fires are kindled in the cold furnaces ; savory steams creep up the stairs ; the preparations increase, and finally climax in the rapturous announcement : " Messieurs, dinner is ready."

The soup is liquified bliss ; the cotekttes d'agiwau are cotelettes de bonlwur ; and as for that broad dish of Syrian larks — Heaven forgive us the regret, that more songs had not been silenced for our sake 1 The meal is all nectar and ambrosia, and now, filled and contented, we subside into sleep on comfortable couches. So closes the first day of our incarceration. This morning dawned clear and beautiful. Lebanon, except his snowy crest, was wrapped in the early shadows, but the Mediterranean gleamed like a shield of sapphire, and Beyrout, sculptured against the background of its mulberry groves, was glorified beyond all other cities. The turf around our pavilion fairly blazed with the splendor of the yellow daisies and crim son poppies that stud it. I was satisfied with what I saw, and felt no wish to leave Quarantine to-day.

Our Italian friend, however, is more impatient. His betrothed came early to see him, and we were edified by the great alacrity with which he hastened to the grate, to renew his vows at two yards' distance from her. In the meantime, I went down to the Turkish houses, to cultivate the acquaintance of a singular character I met on board the steamer. He is a negro of six feet four, dressed in a long scarlet robe. His name is Mahommed Senoosee, and he is .a fakeer, or holy man, from Timbuctoo. He has been two years absent from home, on a pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, and is now on his way to Jerusalem and Damascus. He has travelled extensively in all parts of Cen tral Africa, from Dar-Fur to Ashantee, and professes to be on good terms with the Sultans of Houssa and Bornou. He has even been in the great kingdom of Waday, which has never been explored by Europeans, and as far south as Iola, the capi tal of Adamowa.

Of the correctness of his narrations I have not the least doubt, as they correspond geographically with all that we know of the interior of Africa. In answer to my question whether a European might safely make the same tour SUNDAY IN QUARANTINE. he replied that there would be no difficulty, provided he was accompanied by a native, and he offered to take me even to Timbuctoo, if I would return with him. He was very curious to obtain information about America, and made notes of all that I told him, in the quaint character used by the Mughreb-_ bins, or Arabs of the West, which has considerable resem blance to the ancient Cufic. He wishes to join company with me for the journey to Jerusalem, and perhaps I shall accept him. Sunday, April 18. As Quarantine is a sort of limbo, without the pale of civi lized society, we have no church service to-day.

We have done the best we could, however, in sending one of the outside dragomen to purchase a Bible, in which we succeeded. He brought us a very handsome copy, printed by the American Bible Society in New York. I tried vainly in Cairo and Alex andria to find a missionary who would supply my heathenish destitution of the Sacred Writings; for I had reached the East through Austria, where they are prohibited, and to travel through Palestine without them, would be like sailing without pilot or compass. It gives a most impressive reality to Solo mon's " house of the forest of Lebanon," when you can look up from the page to those very forests and those grand mountains, " excellent *^th the cedars." Seeing the holy man of Timbuc too praying with his face towards Mecca, I went down to him, and we conversed for a long time on religious matters.