Sketches of society in Great Britain and Ireland. Second edition

Front matter

SKETCHES OF SOCIETY IN GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. BY C. S. STEWART, M. A. OP THE V. S. NAVY, AUTHOR OF " A VISIT TO THE SOUTH SEAS," &c. &c. SECOND EDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I. PHILADELPHIA : CAREY, LEA & BLANCHARD. 1835. Islltf t"Cti, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1834, by Carey, Lea & Blanchard, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. PHILADELPHIA C. SHERMAN & CO. PRINTERS, No. 19 ST. JAMES STREET. TO THE HONOURABLE WILLIAM W. BOARDMAN, &c. &c. OP NEW HAVEN, CONN. My dear Boardman, It is not in idle compliment, that your name occupies this page. Early endeared to me by associations of intimacy and friendship, you are blended in many ofthe choicest recol lections of my youth ; and I am happy in the opportunity, now in our riper years, of paying a slight tribute to the virtues, talent and accomplishments which have won the unalterable regard of THE AUTHOR.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. The following volumes were promised to the public, early after my return from England to the United Slates, some months ago. It was my intention, before putting the work to press, to remodel the letters contained in it, and to embrace in them, sentiments and impressions on many points coming under the title I have chosen, as well as on the state of politics, morals, and religion in the United Kingdom, — which had been purposely omitted, in my correspondence with America, till the observations of the entire tour should give me full confidence in their truth and correctness. Orders from Government, however, for immediate duty in the office I hold in the Naval Service, rendered this im practicable ; and good faith to the gentlemen who are my publishers, made it necessary to print from the manuscript in an unaltered form.

Letter I. Departure From The United States

Philosophy of a Sailor's love for the Ocean — Fondness of man for novelty and excitement — Varied phenomena ofthe deep — Pleasures ofthe Sea, in the breeze and in the storm. 1

Letter II. Coasting Off Ireland And Wales

First sight of Land — Light-House on Cape Clear — Beautiful object in its associations — Old Head of Kinsale — Wreck of the Albion — Reminiscences of her departure from New York — Scenery near the Cove of Cork — Kostellan Castle, a seat of the Marquess of Thomond — The Tuscar Light — Holyhead and Island of Anglesea — Scene in a Storm off Beaumaris and Bangor. .... 4

Letter III. Arrival At Liverpool

Entrance of the Mersey — Scenery on the River — Approach to Liverpool — General aspect of the City — Docks and Pier- British and American Pilots — Captain Bolton — Hon. Martin Van Buren — Dinner at the American Consul's — Conversation — President's Message — Reputation of Gen. Jackson. 12

Letter IV. Embarkation Of Hon

MARTIN VAN BUREN, AND GENERAL VIEW OF THE CITY. Breakfast at Richmond Hill— Value of Land — Intemperance, its prevalence in Liverpool — Embarkation of Mr. Van Buren — His popularity at St. James's — Comparative view of Liverpool and New York. - - - - 18

Letter V. Drive To Chester, And Notice Of Its

ANTiaUITIES. Departure from Liverpool — Character of the scenery — An CONTENTS. English village— Country inn— Arrival at Chester — General aspect of the city— its antiquity— Historic interest— Walls — Gates — Castle and promenade. - - - 21

Letter VI. Worship At The Cathedral, And Visit To Eaton Hall

The Sabbath— Description of the Cathedral — Its antiquity- Worship and Sermon — Rev. Mr. Law — Rev. Mr. Thorpe — Drive to Eiton Hall — New bridge — Scenery in the Park — Coup d'œil ofthe edifice — Entrance hall — Chapel — Marquess of Westminster and his chaplain — Show rooms — Library and grounds. .... 29

Letter VII. Journey From Chester, And Account Of Birmingham

Inn at Birmingham — Ruse of the Chambermaid — Travelling by coach — Roads — Coachman and Guard — Beauty of the Country — English Cottages — Beeston Castle — Night scene at Wolverhampton — General appearance of Birmingham — Show shops of Mr. Jones and Mr. Thomason — Warwick Vase — Shield of Wellington — Political state of the town — News of the passage of the Reform Bill. - - 42

Letter VIII. Arrival At Coventry

Departure from Birmingham — Travelling by post — Its comforts and luxury — Disadvantages to a stranger in comparison with the coach — Arrival at Coventry — Antiquity of houses — and narrowness of the streets — Beauty of its steeples — St. Michael's Church — Historic interest of St. Mary's — Banqueting Hall and Council-Room. - - 54

Letter IX. Ruins Of Kenilworth, And Warwick Castle

Spires of Coventry — First impressions at Kenilworth — Description of the Ruins — Richness and beauty of Warwickshire—Arrival at Warwick — Church of St. Marv — Ladies' Chapel — Tomb of Richard of Warwick— The Castle — Its general effect — Uncourteous Cicerone — The Hall — Boudoir of the Countess — Paintings — Relics of Guy of Warwick — View from the Tower, and notice ofthe Gardens. 64

Letter X. Stratford-on-avon, And Blenheim Park

Guy's Cliff, a seat of Mr. Percy — Description of the grounds and mansion — Paintings by Bertie Great heed, Esquire Portrait of Mrs. Percy — Drive to Stratford — I'he landlady — House of Shakspeare's birth — Autographs of visitors Parish clerk, and visit to the church — Tomb of Shak- CONTENTS. speare — Journey to Woodstock — Blenheim park and palace — Present Duke of Marlborough — Arrival at Windsor. 77

Letter XI. Arrival In London

Meeting of the British and Foreign Bible Society in 1826 — Eloquence of the Hon. Charles Grant — Speech of Gen. Orde — Baron Pelit de Logiere — Anniversary of the Charity Schools of London — Manner and circumstances of entering the Metropolis — Epsom Races — Dissipation attending them — London from Waterloo Bridge — Arrival in Westminster. 88

Letter XII. Regent's Park And The Zoological Gardens

Gen. Von Scholten, Governor-General of the Danish West Indies — Gov. Rosenhall, and Dr. Stevens — Regent's Street —Its architecture and general aspect — Equipages and Servants — St. James's — The Green and Hyde Parks — Regent's Park — Entrance to it from Portland Place — Count Danniskiold — Arrangement of the Animals and Birds at the Gardens — Earl of Dundonald and Countess of Jersey — Drive in Hyde Park — Dinner of Gen. Von Scholten — Cordiality and kindness of the General and Capt. Oxholme — Rev. Mr. Ellis and Mrs. Ellis. - - - - - 97 LETTER Xin. LEVEE OF THE KING, AND THE aUEEN'S DRAWING-ROOM. Palace of St. James — State apartments — New palace — Duke of Wellington — Talleyrand — Earl Grey — Presentation to the King — Sir John Gordon Sinclair — Privileges of the entree circle — Ante-room and diplomatic corps — Arrival in state ofthe Duchess of Kent, and the Duke of Gloucester — The Duchesses of Northumberland and Richmond — Admiral Sir Robert Otway — Coup d'œil of the throne-room — the Queen — Aspect and display of the general company. 107

Letter XIV. An Evening And

A MORNING VISIT. Lord and Lady Byron — Autograph of the poet — The Adam family of Marshgate — Reminiscences of 1826 — Workmen and sick Gardener — John Urquhart and John Adam — Interview with the Bishop of Calcutta. ... 127

Letter XV

A LONDON HOTEL, AND DINNER AT SIR CHARLES OGLE'S. Occupation of time — Outline of a day — The Piazza Hotel — Its character — Bed-rooms — Coffee-room — Dinner hour — Manner of serving dinner — The head waiter — Company — Contrast with American table d'hote — Private lodgings — CONTENTS. X 135 145 155 160 165 177 Admiral Ogle and family — The Baron Schlemer— General ignorance of America — Rev. Dr. Thorpe, and worship at the Lock Hospital.

Letter XVI. The Coliseum, And

A SCENE IN NEWGATE. Panorama of London, from the top of St. Paul's— Grotto, and coast scenery— Swiss cottage— Concert at the Marchioness of Salisbury's — Madame Cinti Damoreau — Miss Woodham — Madame Dulken — Mrs. Fowler Buxton, and family — Mrs. Fry, and a company of female convicts.

Letter XVII. The Tower, And Somerset House

Captain Duncan — Order for the inspection of the Tower — Mr. Stacey, superintendent of the Armoury — General characteristics of the crowded parts of London — Lady Otway and Daughters — Exhibition at Somerset House — Paintings by Leslfe — Private Gallery of the Marquess of Stafford — Pieces by Cupt and Dominichino,

Letter XVIII. Visit To Hatcham

Mr. Ewbank and family of Hatcham Grove — The Hardcastles of Hatcham House — Clarkson the Philanthropist — Kev. Mr. Melville of Camberwell — Notices of his oratory and sermon. ......

Letter XIX. Review In Hyde-park

AND EXHIBITION AT MILL-HILL. East and West India Docks — The Tunnel under the Thames — United Service Club — Dinner to Captain Bolton at the club-house — Duke of Wellington's Regiment — Beauty of tlie Horse Guards — Arrival of the King and Queen — Expressions of dissatisfaction by the mob — Splendour of the royal cortege at night — Excursion to Mill-Hill — Orations, and distribution of prizes to the scholars — Remarks of the Lord Mayor — Scenes upon the lawn.

Letter XX. Military Academy At Woolwich

Mr. and Mrs. Rotchfort Clarke— Breakfast in Spring Garden Terrace— Exeter Hall— Inner Temple— Visit to Chelsea Hospital — Captain Dalling — Drive to Woolwich — Military Display for Prince Adalbert— Mortar and Rocket Firing- Evolution ofthe Horse Artillery— Dinner at Mr. Vaughan's.

Letter XXI. Windsor Castle

Sir Graham Moore — Departure from London — Salt Hill Wind-Mill Inn— Eton College— Terrace at Windsor Castle CONTENTS. XI — Old state-rooms — Paintings — New suite of state-rooms — Private apartments — St. George's chapel — Monument of the Princess Charlotte — Call at Upton Lea. 190

Letter XXII. Visit At Taplow, And Arrival At Oxford

Mr. and Mrs. Bird, of Taplow Hill — Character and influence of the family — Impressions received from the people in the vicinity — Moral influence ofthe gentry — Reform Jubilee at Maidenhead — Breakfast and dinner for the poor — Respectability of the populace — View of Oxford from the London road — Interview with Dr. Daubeny, of Magdalen College — Mr. Smith, the Geologist — The commemoration. 200

Letter XXIII. University Of Oxford

General sketch of the city — Professor Daubeny — Breakfast — Visits to the Theatre — Bodleian Library — Radcliffe Library — Picture Gallery and Museum — Magdalen College — Its Chapel and walks — Chapel and grounds of New College — Habits and recreations of the Students — Christ Church College and walks along the Isis. 208

Letter XXIV. Chestertown Lodge, Middletown Park, And Stowe

Country between Oxford and Bicester — Farm-House at Chesterton — Chesterton Lodge — Taste of a Farmer's son — The Vicarage and Lady of the Clergyman — Cottage of Lord Jersey's Steward — Grounds and Apartments at Middleton House — Stowe Park — The Saloon and State Rooms — Private Apartments — Beauty and varied ornaments of the Grounds — Arrival at Newport. ... 218

Letter XXV. Weston Underwood, And Journey To Nottingham

Cowper, the poet — Residence of Mrs. Unwin — Present aspect of Weston — The Throckmorton family — The Wilderness — Bust of Homer — Monuments ofthe dogs Neptune and Fop — Leicester Abbey — Field of Bosworth — Charnwood forest — Ashby -de-la-Zouch — Rev. Mr. Tait and Mrs. Tait — Arrival at Nottingham. .... 228

Letter XXVI. Arrival At Newstead, And Description Of The Abbey

The fulfilment of a promise — Letters from Lord Byron to Col. Wildman — Reception at Newstead — Former and present condition of the mansion and estate — Grand entrance — Stair- CONTENTS. XII case — Banqueting-hall — Breakfast parlour — Library — Drawing-room — Principal bed-rooms — Haunted Chamber — and Byron's Tower. - - - " 233 LETTER XXVn. A WEEK AT NEWSTEAD ABBEY. Byron's Room — Col. and Mrs. Wildman — Their guests — Manner of life — Servants — Sketch of a day — Drawing-room in the evening — Drive to Mansfield — Club of Odd Fellows — Hucknall Church and Tomb of the Byrons — The Abbey Chapel — Worship of the Sabbath — Farewell to Newstead, by Captain Bolton. ..... SKETCHES OF SOCIETY, &c. &c.

Letter I. To Miss Virginia Elizabeth Southard, Of Trenton, New Jersey

Packet-ship York, at Sea, May 28th, 1832. DEAR VIRGINIA, When 1 made the half sportive promise, a few months since, of addressing the next letters 1 should write from abroad to you, 1 did not imagine that my sincerity in the case would so soon be put to the test ; or, if I did, that I should commence scribbling on board a packet ship bound to England, in place of a man of war, destined to some foreign naval station. Such, however, is the fact. It is now already twenty days since we bade our " Native land, good night," and with the coming morrow we confidently expect to welcome the shores of the European world. The lively joy diffused through the ship's company A SAILOR'S LOVE OF THE OCEAN, by this anticipation, explains to me, in part at least, the philosophy of a sailor's love for the mode of life pursued by him, despite its many privations, its hard ships and its dangers.

It is chiefly to be attributed to the changes and novelty incident to it, and to the play of feeling above the common movements of the soul, which it is ever calling into action. Only a few days ago we were in all the excitement of a separation from our homes and nearest friends. The song accompanying the hoisting of our topsails, and the " Yo, heave O!" with which the an chor was then taken, touched in the bosoms of many on board, as well as many on shore, some ofthe live liest sensibilities of the heart — the sympathies of friend parting with friend, brother with brother, through all the closest relations of life. And now, three thousand miles of our trackless way accom plished, a new set of emotions, scarcely less intense, are kindling in every bosom, and illuminating each face with joy, in the prospect of speedily reaching our port, and of participating again in all the bless ings of the land.

Man loves this change and this excitement. He delights in the high capacities of feeling which they prove him to possess ; and the sailor, soon habituated to the experience of them, becomes unfitted for the monotonous routine of a fixed home, and wearies of the shore. The interest of a sea life, however, is far from be ing limited to the commencement and termination of a voyage. The varied phenomena of the ocean, which frequently by day and by night are presented AND THE PLEASURES OF THE SEA. to the notice of the voyager, in the iceberg and water spout, the meteoric flash and phosphofetic scintilla tion, furnish to him their instruction and amusement ; and, while he learns to feel a companionship with the monsters of the deep as they sport around, and with the sea-gull soaring above, and the little pet terel gracefully treading the water below, the wea ther itself is not destitute of its resources of interest and pleasure.

Is the sky bright and the wind fair 1 the exhilaration on board is proportionate ; and_each looks abroad upon " The blue above and the blue below," with a gladness of heart which, to be fully known, must be experienced. Does the storm threaten and the tempest lower ? there is a welcome excitement in the activity and bustle of preparing the ship for the strife of elements; and, when "all is snug," an un tiring delight in watching the wildness of the clouds and sky, and the ever vaiying commotion of the bil lows, as in rapid course, they rush onward in their mad career, and rise, crest, and break widely around in beds of foam ; or, conflicting one with another, toss their summits high in the air, seemingly in jets of commingled emeralds and diamonds. Such, at least, is my experience ; and 1 have never yet been a week at sea, without making the apos trophe of Byron my own — " And I have loved thee, Ocean! in all time, Calm or convulsed, in breeze, or gale, or storm, Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime Dark heaving — I have loved thee, And exulted in thy billows." SIGHT OF LAND.

Letter II. Coasting Off Iheland And Wales

Sight of Land— Light-House on Cape Clear— Old Head of Kinsale —Wreck of the Albion — Cove of Cork — Rostellan Castle— Tuscar Light— Holyhead— Scene off Beaumaris and Bangor. Ship York, off North Wales, May 30th, 1832. DEAR VIRGINIA, At an early hour yesterday morning, we had ex changed the swelling ocean for the smooth surface of a summer's sea, and were gently sailing along the south coast of Ireland, with the land in near view. At six o'clock, the evening before, 1 was the first on board to descry a speck ofthe " Emerald Isle" in the blueness of the eastern horizon — the top of a mountain far inland, and so indistinct in its outline, as to hold many of the least credulous of my fellow passengers in doubt of the reality. Soon, however, long lines of the same dusky hue were seen stretched on the water -, and before night several of the headlands of the coast were clearly distinguishable.

One of the number, captain Bursley, recognized as "Mizen Head," some twelve or fifteen miles westward of Cape Clear, the most southern promontory of the Island. The light-house on this Cape is the beacon most eagerly hailed by navigators in entering the English channel from the west ; and we watched its appearance after dark with lively interest. The beauty and LIGHT-HOUSE ON CAPE CLEAR. splendid starlight of the evening, with a fresh and prosperous breeze, forbade the minglings of any anxi ety in the joy of our approach to land ; still the ex clamation, "the light! the light!" as its rays first gleamed upon us from the breast of the ocean, pro duced a new thrill of pleasure in the additional pro mise, given by it, of the speedy and happy termination of our voyage. With scarce an exception, the passengers of the York are British subjects, returning to their homes after an absence of a longer or shorter duration — from three to thirty years — and many of them invo luntarily exhibited an enthusiasm of delight which communicated itself, by sympathy, to others less in terested in our arrival.

Even the pet dogs of some caught the feeling of their masters, and, by barking and frisking about, and running and jumping from one to another, added no little to the joyous animation pervading the ship, from the cabin to the forecastle. I walked the deck with captain Bursley, who, to all the hardihood and intrepidity ofthe thorough-bred sailor, adds the gentler qualities and affections ofthe man, till a late hour, watching the appearance and disappearance of the light as it revolved, every two minutes, within its lantern. A light-house with its associations is to me a most impressive and delightful object of contemplation — seeming, like some guar dian spirit of the deep, ever faithful to the trust, to warn in danger and to cheer in joy. To the sailor's eye, at least, it is indeed "lovely as Hope, That star on life's tremulous ocean." 1* OLD HEAD OF KINSALE.

I was on deck again at four o'clock the next morn ing, and found the weather still bright and beautiful. We had passed Cape Clear, and were approaching the Old Head of Kinsale, memorable to many a heart, on both sides of the Atlantic, as the spot at which, in the year 1822, the packet ship Albion met her fate, and many a loved one perished. The mist ofthe morning still shrouded the features of the interior landscape, but the perpendicular and Iron-bound cliffs against which she was dashed with the white surf breaking high upon their gloomy fronts, were distinctly seen at a few miles distance. I scarce ly regretted that the sun did not attain a sufficient height to illuminate the scenery beyond, till we had left behind us a landmark associated with such me lancholy recollections. The most lovely imagery embraced in the same picture, would to me have been despoiled of its charms. 1 well recollect the beauty and freshness of the spring morning on which that noble vessel, with full spread sails and banners brightly gleaming in the sunshine, left her moorings at New York and hasten ed triumphantly on her destination over the bay.

Among the passengers were some whom 1 had inti mately known, and many in whose character and welfare I had learned to feel an interest ; and as 1 saw them clustered on the quarter-deck, full of animation at the cheering auspices under which they were about to put to sea, witnessed the last look of affection, given amidst smiles and tears, by friend parting from friend, and caught the farewell wave of the hand and the handkerchief, as long as these sig- WRECK OF THE ALBION. 7 nals of attachment could be recognized in the distance, 1 involuntarily wished myself on board, that I might share in the promised prosperity and happi ness of the voyage ; little dreaming how soon that prosperity was to be exchanged for peril, and that happiness to terminate in death. Ever since I heard the fearful catastrophe that fol lowed, the " Old Head of Kinsale" has sounded like a dirge upon my ear; and the sight of its flinty brow now filled my mind with images of horror.

While gazing upon it, I could see no picture but that ofthe raging tempest, driving the dismasted and helpless wreck at the midnight hour, with resistless fury against the cliffs which were soon to become the death-pillow of the beautiful and the brave, the learn ed and the good, and all that is most precious in the character of our race ; and I turned away to still the repetition in memory of the lines, "We perish! not a hope is left — Death rides on every billow !" &c. so vividly descriptive of the heart-rending scene. A telegraphic station, here and there, and the towers of small castellated buildings erected for the accommodation of the officers and men of the pre ventive or revenue service — forming a cordon along the coast — were the chief objects of interest till we appioached the vicinity of the Cove of Cork.

The country here seems delightful indeed. Above the cliffs, gently swelling hills, covered with various growth ofthe loveliest green, roll inland till they gain a height which cuts off all further view, except the THE COVE OF CORK, blue tops of mountains far interior. Small fields, laid out with great regularity and separated from each other by ditches and low walls of stone or turf, every where look like parts of an old and well kept gar den; while a brown hut or plastered cottage, a farm house with its yard and numerous out-buildings, and occasionally a church tower in the midst of a cluster of humble dwellings, enliven and diversify the view. Scarce a bush or tree, however, is to be seen in the whole range of vision. The Cove of Cork, from which the city of the name is some six or seven miles inland, is a spacious and beautiful harbour.

We could distinctly see the fortresses by which it is guarded, its light-houses and signal stations, as we passed ; and, with a glass, had a fine view of Rostellan Castle, a noble mansion in the vicinity, surrounded by a stately Park belonging to the marquess of Thomond, presenting to an Ame rican eye, in its contrast with every other building for many miles along the coast, a striking evidence of the distance here existing between the plebeian herd and the aristocrasy of the land. Every view, indeed, of the shore tells us that we are in the Old World. And at this distance it surely appears a beautiful and happy world ; and would lead no one to suppose it to share so largely as we know to be the fact, in the poverty, wretchedness, and vice entailed upon our race. The Tuscar light-house, at the south-east point of Ireland, came in view just as the night was again closing around us.

This is one of the most beautiful structures of the kind in the world; standing seven AND TUSCAR LIGHT. 9 miles from the shore on a rock scarce larger than its base, and rising, from the midst of the water, like a pillar of white marble. It presents three different shades and degrees of light in a revolution of its re flectors. The first pale and livid, the second more strongly coloured and more lively, and the third a glowing blaze of brilliancy ; and during the evening while we passed round it, and till we had entered far into St. George's Channel, it was an object of gene ral admiration. This morning, in place of Ireland, points of the Welsh coast were in the distance before us. At mid day the ship was reported by signal at Holy-head, between which and Liverpool, a distance of seventy miles, there is a regular telegraphic communication ; and shortly afterwards, in a gale of wind and rain, we bore round the Island of Anglesea for the mouth of the Mersey.

The chief interest of the day, however, has been in a picture of wildness and beauty with which we were favoured just at nightfall. In the early part of the afternoon the weather was so misty as to prevent a view of the land ; and the rain drove me to the cabin. On going on deck again, I found the wind greatly increased, and the ship in all the bustle and activity of furling and close reefing. It did not rain, however, and, in place of the mist, which previously had cut off the sight even of the nearest vessels ma king their way to port with us, one of the most picturesque and delightful sections of North Wales, at a distance of three or four miles only, burst upon me in a freshness of colouring, and grandeur of imagery, SCENE OFF both on land and sea, rarely combined in the same scene. A pilot whom we had received on board, had ran the ship, to escape the strength of an ebbtide, from her direct course close to the shore, in the vicinity of the towns of Beaumaris and Bangor.

Immediately in front us lay a beautiful vale — a garden of " sweet fields" literally "Drest in living green," sprinkled with white cottages and hamlets, and adorned with the stately turrets of the castles of Beaumaris and Penrhyn — while around and above, mountain was piled upon mountain, from the dark fronted Penmaenmawr, jutting in a precipice over the sea, to the hoary-headed Snowdon, lost amidst the clouds far inland, in a sublimity of grouping and strength of outline, I have never seen equalled ex cept in the Cordilleras of Chili and Peru, and some of the most famed of the neighbouring islands of Polynesia. The tempest seemed to have been just scattered in various directions from the point at which we were. Upon our ship, and the softer sections of the valley and shores in front of us, golden gleamings from the western sky shed a warm and mellow light, gilding every object on which they fell with a double beauty from the wetness ofthe recent rain, while behind us on the sea, and in dark glens and ravines of the mountain tops, the whirlwind and the storm were still seen to be raging with unabated fury.

The water, lashed on every side into a bed of foam, BEAUMARIS AND BANGOR. and the rushing of fitful blasts through our sails and rigging, were in good keeping with the general aspect of the scene ; and the whole drew from us the live liest admiration, till the curtains of the night screened it from further view. This imposing glimpse of Wales, the widely different but lovely sketches of the Irish coast yester day, and recollections of the Isle of Wight, the land first made by the ship in which 1 visited London in 1 826, justify the high anticipations of pleasure 1 have indulged, in view of the travels of the summer; and give assurance that 1 shall not be disappointed in the high improvement, rich resources, beautiful scenery, and stately magnificence of the United Kingdom. REASONS FOR THE VOYAGE.

Letter III. Arrival At Liverpool

Entrance of the Mersey — Scenery on the River — Approach to Liverpool — General aspect of the City — Docks and Pier — British and American Pilots — Captain Bolton — Hon. Martin Van Buren — Dinner at the American Consul's — Conversation — President's Message — Reputation of Gen. Jackson. Adelphi Hotel, Liverpool, May 31st, 1832. DEAR VIRGINIA, Inducements ofthe most tempting kind are ever present to an American for a visit to England. But two circumstances, in particular, led to the resolution on my part of spending the summer abroad : the one a state of health which had interfered for a time with the discharge of my official duties in the national ser vice, and the other the desire of my friend, captain Bolton of the navy, that I should accompany him in a tour which he had determined to make.

It was under the command of this gentleman, you will recollect, that 1 recently accomplished a visit to the south seas. The friendship and intimacy con tracted in a voyage of the world had well fitted us for the close companionship of fellow-travellers on land, and every arrangement was made for leaving New York in company, when 1 was suddenly called to a distant part of the state, under circumstances rendering the practicability of my intended travel doubtful. Captain Bolton, therefore, embarked at SCENERY ON THE MERSEY. 13 the time proposed, with the agreement that 1 should join him, if in my power, at an early period, in Lon don. Happily 1 was enabled to sail by the succeeding packet ; and, on entering the English channel, learned from an Irish fishing boat, that the ship, in which he was a passenger, had preceded us two or three days only.