Wanderings and Adventures in the interior of Southern Africa

Preface

. The excursions to which tbe following pages refer were undertaken at different intervals by the Author, principally for amusement and information, during a residence of ten years at the Cape. In the course of his " Wanderings," he tra versed a considerable portion of the interior of Southern Africa, and succeeded in obtaining an extensive collection of its productions in Natural History, among Avhich were several new and undescribed animals ; — the incidents and adventures that occurred AA'ere preserved in a journal not originally intended for any purpose beyond that of private reference, and tbe amusement of a few friends, to whom a relation of the events connected Avith these journeys might be matter of interest. On the Author's return to England, however, b

PREFACE.

. II with the specimens of Natural History which he had collected, numerous and repeated inquiries were made relative to the inhabitants of the country Avhence these specimens were brought : this circum stance, together Avith the interest recently excited toAvards this quarter of the world, suggested the idea of preparing his journal for publication. The growing importance of the Cape Colony — the increasing intercourse Avith the vast population inhabiting the regions lying beyond the Colonial boundary, — the expedition that has recently started from Cape Toavii for the purpose of penetrating Central Africa (tbe results of Avhich are looked forward to Avith expectations not unmingled Avith anxiety, from the hostile movement of some of the interior tribes), together AA'ith the late unexpected incursion of the Caffers along the Eastern frontier — the destruction of life and property, and the consequent distress and suffering entailed upon the Colo nists from the overwhelming invasion of this rude and barbarous people, confirmed the Author in his determination of laying before the public the results of his gleanings, augmented from various sources of information, to which he here begs to acknowledge

PREFACE.

. III his obligation. It was not his intention to have extended tbe work beyond one volume, but finding it impossible to include the whole of the matter within so small a compass, Avithout making the book a very inconvenient size, he deemed it ad visable to publish it in the present form, being desirous of affording all the knowledge that has been obtained up to the present time relative to the state of the interior of Southern Africa. In regard to the information contained in the Appendix (relating to the Expedition iioav engaged in prosecuting its discoveries under Dr. Smith), the Author trusts that Avhile it cannot fail to interest the public, it may also prove useful in furthering the object of the Association, by extending the knoAV ledge of its proceedings more generally throughout the country.

A few Words may be necessary in reference to the embellishments which illustrate the volumes. The draAvings of the animals on wood are from the able pencil of Mr. W. Harvey, from specimens in the Author's possession, and the style in Avhich they have been engraved cannot fail to add to the established reputation ofthe artist. b2

PREFACE.

. IV The lithographic views AA'ere executed by Mr. T. M. Baynes, chiefly from original sketches. The fron tispiece represents the costumes of the Amakosa — the Amatembou — the Amaponda — and the Amazou lah, — the four great divisions of the Caffer nation. The view of Fort Wiltshire Avas taken by Mr. Turvey, Avho accompanied the expedition under Messrs. CoAvie and Green. A finely-executed Map of South Africa, corrected up to the present period of discovery, has been attached to the work with the sanction of the " Society for the Diffusion of Useful KnoAvledge;" which, on a reference to former maps of this country, will be found to supply a vast accession of geogra phical knoAvledge, and from the best sources of information. In conclusion, the Reader must not expect to find in these volumes that finished style Avhich pervades the works of other travellers who have gratified the public Avith their valuable researches in the country to which they refer, more particularly as the Avork has been prepared for publication amidst the pressure of varous other avocations, which the Author trusts will be kindly admitted as his apology

PREFACE.

. V for the inaccuracies of style and arrangement, too apparent throughout its pages. His chief aim has been to contribute his small quota of information in a plain and agreeable form ; — this he ventures to hope he has not altogether failed in accomplishing. Mornington Cresent, July 11th, 1835.' CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. PART THE FIRST. Preface Page i

Chapter I

Algoa Bay — Bethelsdorp— Graham's Town — Fort Wiltshire— Native war dance — Caffer fair — Gaika and Botuman— Caffer Chiefs — Interior of a Chiefs hut — Savage mode of slaughtering an ox — A feast — " Barsaala" — A Caffer's encounter with an Elephant- Arrival at Mount Coke. — Page 1.

CHAPTER IL

Native mode of hunting the Elephant — Scenery at Mount Coke — A Sabbath in Cafferland — Whitehoy, the Interpreter — Wesleyville — Pato — Caffer Hymn, composed by a Native Chief. — Page 21.

Chapter III

Superstitions — Witch Doctors — The Wise Woman — Rain-makers— Condition of Females in Cafferland — Forlorn situation of Widows— Introduction of the Plough — Institution of the Sabbath—Translation of the Soriptures into the Caffer language.— Page 35.

Chapter IV

The Amaquati— An Evening Entertainment— Sham Fight — Fish River Bush— Elephant Hunt — Bivouac and Conflagration — A Night in the Forest— Hottentot's Adventure with a Rhinoceros — A Caffer Queen -Death and Character of Gaika — Untimely end of John Thackwray. — Page 53. CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Theopolis— The Cowie River— Bathurst— Poortes-Cottage-Inn at the Bushman's River — Travellers benighted — Anecdote — Dreary Ride— Hottentot and Hyæna— Voyage from Port Elizabeth—A Gale off the Cape— Loss of the Government Schooner Francis. —Page 76. PART THE SECOND.

Chapter I

Departure overland from Cape Town — Antelopes — The New Kloof — Hex River — Groote Karroo — Scarcity of Water — Thunder-storm — The Gamka, or Lion River — Spring-hoks and Vultures — Nieuw-veld Mountains — Beaufort — Account of depredations by the Bushmen — The Commando System, &c. — Page 91.

Chapter II

Rhenoster Kope — Anecdote — Large Herd of Spring-boks — Description of these Animals — Exploits in shooting — Narrow Escape — Gloomy Situation — Graaff-Reinet — Swarm of Locusts — Difficult Ascent of the Sneeuwberg Mountains — Schelms — Barren Aspect ofthe Country— Celebrated Waterfall.— Page 114.

Chapter III

The Compass-Berg — Fatal encounter with a Lion — Destruction of Crops by the Locusts — Anecdotes of these Insects — Quaggas — Gnus — Hunting Anecdotes — Inquisitive Boor — Nocturnal visit of a Hyæna — The Coney of Scripture — " Gift" — A Vei Boor — Bushmen and their poisoned Arrows — Sand-storm — A Lion in the Plain— Anecdote of Dempy and the Dog. — Page 131.

Chapter IV

Orange River — Disappointed Natives— Narrow escape of Drowning — Picturesque Scenery — An Encampment of Boors — Formation of a new Village— Violent Thunder-storm— Ant-hills — Ant-eaters — Bald Ibis— Fatal effects of Lightning — Bull Frogs — Start a CONTENTS, IX Hyæna — Anecdotes of Lion-shooting— Providential Escape. — Page 158.

Chapter V

Hot Springs— Fish River — Waggon overturned — Hard Treaty with a Caffer — Village of Cradock — Sequestered Vale — Locust Birds— Glen Lynden — Bush-boks — Forest Scenery — Indicator — Farmer startled by a Tiger— Hanging Nests ofthe Weaver Bird— Caffer' s Complaint — Kakaberg Bechuanas — Immense flight of Locusts— Graham's Town.— Page 180.

Chapter IX

Leave the Chumie— Caffer Marriage— Strange Ceremonies — Dress — Importunity of the Caffers— Surround the Waggon— Continue to follow — Sudden Alarm — Lose the Oxen — Bivouac — Proceed to Fort Wiltshire —Chief Makomo— The lost Oxen restored. — Page 237.

Chapter X

The Four great Divisions ofthe Caffer Nation— Population— Tradition of the Natives— General Description of the Country— Form of Government— Polygamy— Costumes— Agricultural Pursuits— X CONTENTS. Description of Native Dwellings— Food— Amusements— Super stitions—Diseases—Professions—Witch Doctors.— Page 247.

CHAPTER XL

Lieutenant Farewell and party settle at Natal— Fears entertained for their safety— Captain King proceeds to their assistance— Is wrecked in the Mouth of the Harbour— Builds a Schooner out of the wreck— Returns to the Colony with two Ambassadors from the Zoulah Chief Chaka— Alarm in the Colony at Chaka's approach — Ambassadors sent back to Natal accompanied by Captain King— Cane reaches .the Colony overland from Natal — Farewell arrives with the accounts of the Death of Captain King and Assassination of Chaka — Massacre of Farewell and party — Queto and Tribe destroyed — Cowie and Green's Journey overland to Natal — Their melancholy fate. — Page 269.

Chapter XII

Description of Albany — Market — Trade — Education — Labour — > Climate — Natural Productions — Detention at Sunday River — Accidents in crossing — Uitenhage — Earth-Wolf — Vanstaden River — Description of the Country — Oppressive Heat — Overtaken by a violent Storm — Kromme River — Lange Kloof — Devil's Kope — Beautiful Scenery — Knysna— Effects of the Storm — Pigmy Antelope. — Page 293.

Chapter XIII

Frightful Pass o\'er the Cradock Mountain — Town of George — Forest Scenery— Pacaltsdorp — Farmer and the Bosch-bok— Mossel Bay — Detention— River overflowed — Village of Swellendam. — Page 323. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. TO THE FIRST VOLUME. A Group of CafTers of various tribes . . To face title page Vignette ..... title page Fort Wiltshire . . . . . 10 Spring-Boks . . . . . 118 Bivouack near the Chumie Settlement, Cafferland . 237 Travelling in Cafferland .... 238 Map of Southern Africa .... end of vol. TO THE SECOND VOLUME. Cynictis Steedmannii . ; .To face title page Vignette . , , . title page Klip-Springer ". , , . 9 The Inhabited Tree ..... 46 The Gems-Bok ..... 55 The Antelope Ellipsisprymnus ... 94 The Straand- Wolf . . . . 112 The Wreck of the Grosvenor East Indiaman, in 1782, on the Coast of Caffraria . , .

ADDENDA AND ERRATA. Volume I. Page 50, line 13, for " Umkeneto Umfazi," read " Kakalabafazi." „ 51, „ 10,/or " Proceeding" read " We proceeded." „ 53, „ last,/or " Chi.-f Kaina," read " Chief Kama." „ 74, „ 5, for " Keishamma," read" Keiskamma." „ 86, „ 3, for " Samboes," read" Sambock." „ 91, „ 6, for" friend," read" friends." „ 92, „ 5, fir " Tiger Bay," read - Tiger Berg." „ 94, „ 3, for" Waar Hoek," read •' Waai Hoek." ,, 125, „ 9, for " Spring-haan," read " Spring-kaan." „ 126, „ 15, for " uitspanned," read " inspanned." ,, 136, „ 6, for " of obtaining," read " from obtaining." „ 152, „ 16, for "tn," read " as." „ „ „ 17,/or "sattracted,"r«irf" attracted." ,, 156, „ 3, for " unable," read "was unable." „ 174, „ 18, for " gold-colour," read " bronze* coloured." „ 179, ,, 3, for "leo," read "leeuwe." „ 194, „ 1 and 12,/w " Schelms," CfoJ " Schelm" ,,211, ,, 8, for " descriptions," read " description." ;, 249, „ 1 6, for " of Vossani," read" is Vadanna." ,,280, „ 20, for "Matnana, reaJ " Matuana." „ 328, „ 14, fir " farm-bouses," read " farms."

Volume II. Page 9, line 7, read " This quadruped, of which I procured male and female, somewhat resembles in its habits the chamois of the Alps." „ 9, „ 23, for "natural injuries," read'' occasional injuries." „ 21, „ 2j,/or"Vantourchinconof Vaillant, *' read" Vulturoccipitalis.'' „ 40, „ 6, for " herd," read " horde." ii -52, „ 6, for " more fiend-like," read " a more fiend-like." „ 71, „ 23, for" Black," read" Zwart." „ 74, „ 13. for " Arnistou," read "Arniston." „ 107, „ 20,/or " bown," read " brown." » 132, „ 20,/o>- " permitted," read " committed." I omitted 1o state in the proper place, that I could not correctly ascertain the precise locality of the "Antilope Elltpstprymnus" of the parties from whom I procured the specimen in my possession, farther than that it came from beyond the Orange River ; and a native, who professed to be familiar with the animal, stated that it was a " Kwaai Deere" (a vicious animal.)

I have since been informed that it is found in small herds in the Bechu anna country, near the sources of the Caledon River; and that when wounded it is extremely dangerous, and will immediately turu upon its pursuers. — Ed. WANDERINGS AND ADVENTURES IN TliK INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AFRICA. PART THE FIRST.

Chapter I

Algoa Bay — Bethelsdorp — Graham's Town — Fort Wiltshire — Native war dance — Caffer fair — Gaika and Botuman — Caffer chiefs — Interior of a Chiefs hut — Savage mode of slaughtering an ox— A feast — " Barsaala" — A Caffer's encounter with an elephant — Arrival at Mount Coke. I embarked, from Table Bay, on board the brig Mary, a vessel of about one hundred tons, com manded by Captain S. Phelps, and bound for Algoa Bay, which is situated on the South-eastern coast, about five hundred miles from Cape Town. Doubling the Cape is Avell known to voyagers in con nexion with a heavy sea and tempestuous weather, and it was not our lot, in the present instance, to escape without a few rough breezes ; but we reached the place of our destination after a passage of fourteen days, notwithstanding a rather dangerous proximity to the Doddington Rock, so called from an East-India man of that name having been wrecked some years VOL. I. B BETHELSDORP. ago on this identical spot.

Algoa Bay, or Port Elizabeth as it is now called, is the principal port of the Eastern province. It was here that the British settlers landed in 1820, since which period its im portance, in a commercial point of view, has con siderably increased, although in itself a most barren and uninteresting spot. In consequence of a heavy rolling surf it is sometimes difficult to effect a land ing, particularly when the wind blows from the south east ; yet it seldom happens that any accident occurs, owing, in a great measure, to the precautions adopted for managing the boats. The only inconvenience we experienced, on this occasion, was a thorough drench ing, from the violence with which the surf broke over the boat. Soon after landing, I proceeded to Be thelsdorp, about eight miles distant, the first esta blishment in this country of the London Mission ary Society, whose enterprising labours in the pro secution of their laudable objects have been ulti mately crowned with success.

The station, with its numerous buildings scattered in various directions, presented the appearance of a small country village, and reminded me, at first sight, of some quiet and secluded hamlet in England ; until, on a nearer approach, the barren aspect of the neighbour hood, slightly relieved by a few straggling aloes, mesembryanthemum, cactus, and other plants indi genous to the sandy soil, but, above all, the costume and complexion of the Hottentots, at once destroyed graham's town. 3 this illusion. Four Missionaries were residing here with their families at the time of my visit, and the great regularity which characterised every arrange ment of the society produced a favourable impression. Mr. Brownlee was preparing for a distant journey, with the view of forming a station on the banks of the Buffalo River among the Caffers ; an able auxiliary in this praiseworthy design was Jan Tzatzoe, the son of one of their chiefs, a fine-looking and intelligent man, about thirty years of age, brought originally into the colony for education by the late Dr. Vander Kemp, by whom the station at Bethelsdorp was first established, and of whom he related many in teresting anecdotes with evident feelings of strong attachment to his memory, and a grateful sense of his instructions.

From Bethelsdorp I proceeded on horseback to Graham's Town, which received its name in token of public respect for the talents and virtues of Colonel John Graham, formerly commanding on the frontier, and is now the principal town of the Eastern province. This was the spot selected for the location of the three thousand seven hundred settlers who arrived in the colony from England in 1820, at which period this now flourishing memorial of British enterprise and perseverance was an obscure village. After remaining a few days at this place, which I shall take an opportunity of describing more fully in the course of my narrative, I obtained leave B FORT WILTSHIRE. from the Commandant to visit Cafferland, the facility of penetrating at that time beyond the boundaries being entirely dependent on permission from the Colonial authorities.

Leaving Graham's Town early one morning, I enjoyed a most delightful ride through a wild and romantic country, passing a spot cele brated for having once been the scene of a severe conflict between the Caffers and Colonists, in which it may be recollected that the former were signally defeated in their sudden attempt to exterminate, by surprisal, the new settlement. The close of the day brought me to Fort Wiltshire, a military outpost on the Keiskamma River, after a journey of about forty-five miles, through a district remarkable for its bold and beautiful scenery. It was impossible, indeed, for an admirer of Nature not to be struck with the grandeur and sublimity of her works presented to his notice on every side ; — stupendous mountains, abrupt and frightful chasms, were among the nobler features of the landscape ; whilst the various evergreens that clothed the steep declivities, — the darkening forests that adorned each towering eminence, — exhibited a mass of verdant foliage, most refreshing amidst the vast magnificence of the picture.

On approaching Fort Wiltshire in the dusk of evening, my attention was attracted by numerous fires, which were dispersed in every quarter ; and imparted an exhilarating effect to the dreariness and solitude of the scenes around. It NATIVE WAR-DANCE. appeared that several parties of English traders had arrived for the purposes of traffic at the fair which was to be held on the morrow, and had formed for the night a kind of encampment, regaling them selves on the ground before the blazing fires which they had kindled, and enjoying, after the fatigues of their journey, the necessary refreshments of food and rest, while much keen conversation passed on the probable profits of the ensuing day. Their oxen were reposing in security around the waggons, which they had brought moi'e ostensibly with the view of carrying back their intended purchases, than of conveying to the fair their own commodities ; these merely consisting of beads and other trines of in utility, whilst they obtained in exchange from the Caffers ox-hides, ivory, horns, and other articles of merchandise.

The Caffers had assembled on the opposite bank of the Keiskamma, from different quarters of the interior, but were not to be allowed to cross the river until the following morning, when the firing of a signal gun should announce the commencement of the fair. These Caffers were passing the evening much like the English traders, whilst Gaika, their chief, accompanied by his -wives, and a large re tinue of attendant warriors, had been permitted, as usual, to enter the fort, and was exhibiting to its inmates the peculiar and terrific war-dance of his tribe. This was a performance, indeed, far more NATIVE WAR-DANCE. adapted to astonish than to please, exciting alarm rather than admiration, and displaying in rapid succession the habits and ferocious passions of a savage community. Let the reader picture to himself a hundred or more unclad Africans, besmeared and disfigured with copious defilements of red clay, and assuming with frantic gestures all the characteristic vehemence of a furious engagement.

The dance commenced with a slow movement to a sort of humming noise from the women in the rear, the men stamping and beating time on the ground with their feet, until the gradual excitement occasioned a simultaneous spring with corresponding shouts, when the action proceeded to an unnatural frenzy, and was calculated to produce in the mind of a stranger the most appalling sensations*. The dusky glare of the fire blazing in front of these formidable warriors, during their wild and unearthly evolutions, gave an additional degree of awful effect to this extraordinary scene ; and all that I had ever read in poetry or romance of the Court of Pandemonium, or the Hall * Foremost in these hideous revelries was the Chief himself, whose ambition for unequalled excellence in such gymnastic feats had occasioned, at an earlier period, the cruel and untimely death of a blameless subject.

It is related that, when a certain dependent of his tribe appeared to surpass Gaika in these warlike exercises, and unfortunately for himself, to obtain from the spectators a superior tribute of approbation, the jealous and unrelenting tyrant, who could " bear no brother near his throne," contrived by some insidious pre text to destroy his unhappy rival. of Eblis, fell infinitely short, to my imagination, com pared with the realities before me. It was, indeed, a most seasonable relief amidst the bewildering fancies of the moment, to hear the gratifying sound of " All's well" from the sentries on the outposts of the fort, which imparted to the mind a feeling of security and composure that, as may be well con ceived, was truly welcome. In the morning I waited on the Commandant of the fort, whom I had known in Cape Town, and acquainted him with my intention of proceeding into Cafferland.

He received me with great politeness, and accompanied me round the fair, which had now commenced. It was supposed there must have been more than three thousand Caffers assembled on this occasion, and amongst them were many of their chiefs, to whom the Commandant introduced me as his friend, telling them that I was about to visit their country. Botuman, an old captain under Gaika, said most good-humouredly, that he should be glad to see me, and would kill an ox on my arrival at his kraal, a mode of evincing the most cordial hospitality. The method of bartering at this fair between the respective traders is thus conducted : the Caffer who has articles to dispose of sits down amidst his com rades, awaiting the approach of a colonial dealer, who produces his beads and other species of traffic.

Although neither party understands the other's language, it seldom happens that an interpreter is present, and the negotiation is therefore carried on by signs. Should the beads or other commodities of fered not be considered sufficient by the Caffer for the transfer of his own produce, a shake of the head significantly denotes his dissatisfaction; more beads, perhaps, are then added on the one side, but dissent being still manifested on the other, until the dealer, not disposed to make any further advance, the affair terminates without agreement, to the vexation ofthe bead merchant, whose time and patience have been so unprofitably exhausted, but, to the utter indiffer ence of the Caffer, whose imperturbable coolness is an additional source of chagrin to the unsuccessful bidder. A second and a third dealer often display their ornamental treasures with similar failure ; and it not unfrequently happens that the tenacious Caffer departs without disposing of his commodity, which he brings to the next fair, and exchanges ultimately for articles of less number and value than had previously been offered.

When a bargain of any mag nitude is concluded, the Chief is generally at hand to substantiate his claim, considering himself en titled to a certain portion of the profits as his tri bute, in consequence of his territory having been made the scene of traffic. His retainers are there fore dispersed throughout the fair, to watch the vari ous negotiations, and summon their chief at the close of any considerable bargain ; no fraction of the payment being touched by the salesman before his arrival. On the present occasion, I noticed seve ral Caffers Avho had brought for sale the tooth of an elephant, the size of which indicated a more than ordinary value, and seemed to excite great interest among the dealers, with a reasonable expectation of large profit to the parties themselves, whose united efforts had succeeded in obtaining it.

Many offers were at first rejected, the number and avarice of its owners appearing to demand an extravagant price. The hour had nearly arrived for concluding the fair, before an assenting nod declared the termination of the bargain, which was evidently hastened by the introduction of a knife, with some other alluring articles, in addition to the beads already offered. Gaika, in consequence, soon appeared for his accustomed tribute, and evinced both his rapacity and dis crimination in selecting the choicest beads, without appearing to have the slightest interest in the trans action, and Avithout uttering a word to the morti fied assemblage. Every look and movement of this arbitrary chieftain Avas narroAvly scrutinized by the desponding group ; and as each string of tamboos (the beads most valuable in their estimation) disappeared successively beneath his covetous grasp, the contortions of their features clearly bespoke their secret rage, the loud expression of Avhich Avas alone restrained by fear of the Chief.

Silence, hoAA-ever, Avas no longer maintained, but on his departure their distress and wrath were soon expressed in mournful ejaculations over the relics of those gains which had been acquired after so much fatigue and peril. I expressed my surprise to an interpreter, that the party should have so quietly submitted, Avithout re monstrance, to the greedy demands of Gaika. He shook his head with a significant smile, and sliOAving me his mutilated hand, replied, " I once ventured to remonstrate Avith him myself, Avhen he flew into a rage, and Avould have thrust his assagai through my body, had I not parried the javelin with my hand, and luckily escaped Avith the loss of my thumb." The fair having terminated by sound of trumpet*, according to the usual regulations, the Caffers began immediately to disperse, and proceeding to a short distance from the scene of their traffic, recrossed the river at the customary fording-place, not a little in terest being excited at the dexterity with which they severally sprang from one stepping-stone to another over a rapid stream, whilst laughter Avas occasionally provoked by the mishap of some less expert adven turer, whose unexpected ablution excited a loud shout of mirth from such of his companions as had safely reached the opposite bank.

My own departure from Fort Wiltshire into Caf ferland took place in the course of the following day, in company Avith a young Englishman named Thack- * The annexed plate presents a sketch of Fort Wiltshire, from a drawing taken on the spot during the fair. CIFFEREAIK. roRTTHlISHIRB INTERIOR OF A CHIEF'S HUT. 11 Avray, whose services as a guide I freely accepted, in consequence of his previous acquaintance Avith the country and its tribes. Our journey being under taken on horseback, Ave forded the river without having occasion to exert a similar agility to that which had contributed to our amusement on the preceding evening in the persons of the Caffers ; and after passing through several villages, Ave arrived late in the day at the kraal of Botuman. Our entrance into the valley in which it Avas situated was speedily announced by the barking of numerous dogs, AA'hich are always essential appendages of a Caffer establishment.

The good-humoured old chief met us instantly on our arrival, and invited us most cordially into his hut, where a blazing fire, Avhile it gave token of cheerfulness, cast a lurid glare on the strange countenances of its inmates. There being no opening for the smoke to escape except by the door-Avay, AA'hich did not reach more than three feet from the ground, the sensation was extremely un pleasant, although no inconvenience whatever appeared to be felt by the natives themselves. The Chief took his seat on the ground among his retainers Avithout distinction, and some of his Avives coming in shortly afterAvards, reclined themselves by his side. Botuman eagerly inquired Avhat news I had brought from the Great Chief, meaning the Governor of the Cape, and when he would visit his kraal, being more particularly anxious to learn Avhen the Caffers BOTUMAN. might be allowed to take possession of the territory from Avhich they had been driven — a neutral tract that lay between Cafferland and the colony, and Avhich he (Botuman) described as the best part of their country.

He then asked if I had travelled all the way by land from the Great Chief's kraal, and AA'hen he heard that I had come part of the distance by sea, he was very inquisitive to knoAv Iioav I found the track, and if there Avere trees to fasten the Sea IVaggon to at night. I inquired, in turn, when the ox was to be killed; Botuman seemed immediately to remem ber the promise he had made at Fort Wiltshire, and directed one to be slaughtered Avithout delay ; but, as my object was merely to ascertain the sincerity of his pledge, I begged that he Avould in no respect consider it necessary. Taa'O baskets of refreshments AA'ere then brought in, one containing boiled corn, or millet, and the other sour milk, AA'hich AA'ere handed in the first instance to the Chief, and afterwards in regular succession to those around him.

This repast was by no means unpalatable, and proA'ed very acceptable after our long ride. In the course of the evening ThackAA'ray alluded to the murder of several colonists, which had been perpetrated by the Caffers some years previously, and told the Chief that he Avas reported to have been concerned in this barbarous transaction. I could not help thinking that, in our present circumstances and situation, it Avas singularly bold and imprudent BOTUMAN. to hazard such a remark in the very cabin of the Chief himself; and I observed that Botuman's countenance assumed an expression of great indig nation, Avhilst he vociferously exclaimed against the injustice of the charge. During his delivery of a long incoherent story, which referred, I believe, to some dispute betAveen himself and a neighbouring chief, and which none of his party dared to interrupt, I stretched myself upon the ground, overcome AA'ith the intense and stifling annoyance of the smoke ; and, taking my saddle for a pilloAV, Avith my cloak AA'rapt around my limbs, I mused in quiet on the novelty of the scene.