A Private Journal kept during the Niger Expedition from ... May, 1841, until ... June, 1842

Front matter

A PRIVATE JOURNAL KEPT DURING THE NIGER EXPEDITION, FROM THE COMMENCEMENT IN MAY, 1841, UNTIL THE RECALL OF THE EXPEDITION IN JUNE, 1842. BV WILLIAM SIMPSON, CIVILIAN. LONDON: JOHN F. SHAW, 27, SOUTHAMPTON ROW, RUSSELL-SQ. ; HAMILTON, ADAMS & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW ; J. JOHNSTONE, EDINBURGH ; AND J. ROBERTSON, DUBLIN*. 1843. LONDON : H. W. MARTIN, PRINTER, BARTLETT'S BUILDINGS, HOLBORN. TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, K.G. ETC. ETC. PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE TOTAL EXTINCTION OF THE SLAVE TRADE, AND THE CIVILIZATION OF AFRICA. Mat it please your Royal Highness to accept the Dedication of a Journal, from an humble individual who formed one of the members of the late Niger Expedition, in which is detailed the occurrences, as they came under his personal observation. I am emboldened to Dedicate this little work to your Royal Highness from a knowledge of the lively interest your Royal High ness has taken in the merciful undertaking on behalf of the sons of Africa, and from a conviction that your Royal Highness will give your high sanction to the publication of every particular (however humbly its performance may be executed), connected with an Expe dition undertaken with the noble view of delivering the population of so large a portion of the world, from spiritual darkness, earthly misery, and cruelty. I have the honour to be, Your Royal Highness's Most humble and devoted Servant, WILLIAM SIMPSON.

Preface

. In the following Journal of the progress and termination of an enterprize which has elicited such an a mount of Christian and benevolent sympathy through out the civilized world, I have not attempted any thing but to give, in as clear a manner as I could, the facts which came under my immediate notice, and was in the habit of daily entering in my journal, not with the view of publication, but merely for reference, and for my own satisfaction and that of my friends ; but having been induced, through the kind persua sion of many,for whose opinion I entertain the highest respect, I have complied with their wish to print the journal, and send ray plain narrative forth to the public. I have not touched upon the scientific researches of the Niger expedition, as I doubt not that will be set forth in an able manner by those under whose direction it was guided ; but, in passing, I would add my feeble testimony of praise to the zeal and energy with which these were conducted, under the most a

PREFACE.

. VI trying circumstances, both of natural and physical causes, laying many prostrate, and cutting off several in the midst of these engagements. My journal will be found to place the reader in a position to form an opinion on many points connected with this expedition, regarding which, at present, there is a great want of material, to enable the public to come to a satisfactory conclusion. As the study of the writer in the following sheets has been only a narration of facts as they occurred under his own observation, from the commencement to the termination of the Niger expedition, without the least pretensions to literary composition, he trusts a generous Public, from the above circumstance, and the hurried manner it has necessarily been put to gether, since his arrival in the capital, will plead his excuse for style and any incorrectness that may appear to a discerning public. With this apology he places the work before the world without further comment. London, December, 1842.

Introduction

. The writer of the following pages at an early period of his life was led to the western hemisphere, where he was the principal in a mercantile house, established in Cartagena, and Santa Marta de Colombia, from the year 1823 to 1831. During this period his avocations obliged him to visit many of the West India Islands, in one of which he resided for several months,* and was brought much in contact with the then slave population, with which he had frequent intercourse, while they were engaged at labour in the fields and in the curing-house, and also at their own homes. With the facts of slavery thus brought before his mind ; with abun dant evidence around him in the character both of bond and free, of its degrading effect upon the one, and its hardening and brutalising influence upon the other ; with feelings not * See Appendix, page 129. (A)

INTRODUCTION.

. warped or perverted by familiarity with slavery, his mind be came earnestly alive to the claims of the children of Africa, and his prayers to God were that they might be emancipated from the fetters as well of the spirit as of the body-. It was a vain thing in the face ofa system which counteracted every good principle almost in the bud, a system which allowed of none acquiring a permanent and extensive influence, to con tend, with any great hopes of success, in behalf of the negroes; but in faith and prayerfulness the writer endea voured to convert the misfortune — the exile and slavery, — of those with whom he was brought in contact, to their profit, by collecting them on the Sabbath day, on different occasions, to hear from a missionary resident, the inestimable truths of the gospel. These labours at least proved to him one thing, that the disposition of his coloured friends was not that which is likened to stony ground.

The capricious tyranny to which they were exposed ; the exclusion of every thing, not merely animal in its character, from their habits and history, might prevent the good seed maturing in them ; but the soul, the image of God, though ever so darkened and blinded, was not less to be recognized in them, than in many of his own countrymen. He felt and saw that justice only was needed to the sons and daughters of Africa to prove that God had fitted them for something better than slavery. The busy occupations of life, new scenes and circumstances, and the energy with which the work was carried on by others prevented the writer from engaging in behalf of the ne<*Toes himself, farther than in a very trifling and incidental manner or degree, until about the period which dates the commence ment of the following journal. He was then, that is about

INTRODUCTION.

. IX two years since, temporarily resident in Liverpool engaged on some mercantile business, when he was for the first time made aware of the then contemplated Niger expedition whilst attending the ministry of the Rev. Haldane Stewart. That esteemed and venerated minister of Christ intimated from the pulpit, that a meeting would be held in his church to implore the divine blessing on the expedition ; the writer at once resolved to be present at the meeting. This intention he fulfilled, and after having listened to a clear exposition of the objects of the proposed Niger expedition, followed by a powerful and affecting appeal in its favour, providential circum stances concurring, and he feeling himself strongly drawn to be united with this Christian and benevolent undertaking ; — regarding the expedition in its double character of a commercial as well as benevolent enterprise — it became his earnest desire to lend his humble energies and abilities to those who had originated it, should they be deemed acceptable.

Before taking any direct steps, however, he instituted inquiries into the views and intentions of those who might be his com panions, which resulted in the assurance that they were led to volunteer by motives of a religious and philanthropic cha racter. Some of the writer's most valued* friends in vain sought to dissuade him from the enterprise ; his anticipations were sanguine, and having received an appointment from government, he began his preparations. He collected infor mation regarding the articles which were likely to be found in the country, to which he was to proceed, and selected samples of such as might be of use in a commercial intercourse with the inhabitants. He obtained Bibles and differ- * See Appendix, page 129. (Bj X

INTRODUCTION.

. ent religious publications for distribution, and at the sugges tion of some Christian friends, he was provided by the two chief Rabbis in London with letters* commendatory to their brethren, in case it should be found that in the providence of God towards that remarkable people, any portion of them were located in the interior of Africa. On the 1st of April all was in readiness, and he took his departure on board H. M.S. Wilberforce. * See Appendix, page 129. (C) CONTENTS. Chapter I. PAGE Journal from April 20th to June 25th, 1841.— Embark at Woolwich. — Anchor at Portsmouth. — The Purser. — First Sabbath at Sea. — Cross the Bay of Biscay. — Arrive at the Island of Madeira. — Friends there. — Rides about the Island. — Incidents. — Orchards. — Scenery. — Arrive at the Island of Teneriffe. — Excursion into the Country. — The Character of the People, Soil, &c. — Passage from Teneriffe to the Island of St. Vincent. — Captain Bird Allen. — Excursion into St. Vincent. — Sterile Country. — Hospitality of a Man of Colour to our Party. — Melancholy Accident to a Shipmate. — Nicholas Isle. — Weather. — Approach Sierra Leone 1 Chapter II.

Journal from 26th June to August. — Arrive at Sierra Leone. — Its appearance from the Sea. — Land there. — Arrive at Cape Mesurado, — Liberia. — Bassa Cove. — Cape Palmas. — Incidents on the Voyage. — Cape Coast Castle. — British Accra. — Approach Cape Formosa . . . . . IS Chapter III. Journal from August 15th to September. — Alburka Island. — The Benin branch ofthe Niger. — Oguberee. — Ivandee. — The King of Ibu. — Conferences and Treaties. — Commissioners at Iddah. .34 Chapter IV. From September to December. — Sickness. — Traffic. — Arrival at the spot chosen for the Model Farm. — Return of the Soudan and the Wilberforce. — Fernando Po. — Dr. Collman. — St. George's Bay. — Return of the Albert. — Death of Captain Bird Allen. — Continued Sickness and Deaths. — Death of Dr. Vogel ...... contents.

PAGE 6G 79 65 1)3 99 Ill 120 127 Chapter V. From December, 1841, to February, 1842. — Princes' Island Madame Ferrera. — St. Thomas's Island. — Island of Rollas Annobon Island. — Catholic Church. — Ascension Island Governor's Residence .... Chapter VI. From February to March. — Burial Ground at Ascension. — Tidings from England. — Dangerous Landing Place. — Abundance of Turtle. — Mode of Capture. — Scarcity of Vegetation. — Want of Spring Water. — Importing a Wife Chapter VII. From March to April. — The Madagascar. — Arrival at Cape Coast Castle. — The Governor. — Missionary Station and School. — Rev. Mr. Freeman. — Merchants' Houses. — Trade. — The Soil. — British Accra. — A Danish Settlement . Chapter VIII. From April to May. — Clarence Cove. — Arrival of the Driver. — Coast of Bimbia. — Amboyces' Island. — Shark'sRiver. — North- West Bay. — The Peruviana. — The Cameroon River Chapter IX.

May. — King Bell's Town. — Number of Wives. — King's favourite Wife, — Wrestling Matches. — State Visit from the King. King Aqua. — The Camaroon Mountain. — Youngay. — The Town of Bimbia. — The King's Residence. — Native Huts. — Superstitious Practices ..... Chapter X. From May to June. — Clarence Cove. — Princes' Island. — The Dutchman's Cap. — Captain Lilley's House. — Church Bay. — Madame Ferrera's House. — Convicts. — Death of the second Engineer. The Kite. — Recall of the Expedition. — Departure of the Wilberforce for the Niger. — Return to England Chapter XI From June to September. — Clarence Cove. — The Golden Spring. — Superiority of steam over sails. — Calms. — Slow Progress. — The Isle of Wight. — Conclusion Appendix PRIVATE JOURNAL, KEPT DURING THE NIGER EXPEDITION.

Chapter I

Journal from April 20th to June 25th, 1841. — Embark at Woolwich. — Anchor at Portsmouth. — The Purser. — First Sabbath at Sea. — Cross the Bay of Biscay. — Arrive at the Island of Madeira. — Friends there.' — Rides about the Island. — Incidents. — Orchards. — Scenery. — Arrive at the Island of Teneriffe.- -Excursion into the Country. — The Character of the People, Soil, &c. — Passage from Teneriffe to the Island of St. Vincent. — Captain Bird Allen. — Excursion into St. Vincent.— Sterile Country. — Hospitality of a Man of Colour to our Party. — Melancholy Accident to a Shipmate. — Nicholas Isle. — Weather. — Approach Sierra Leone. 20th April, 1841. — At half-past five o'clock I got on board the Wilberforce, off Woolwich ■ but finding few of my com panions, I immediately left again, and proceeded to the Albert.

Here, in company with Messrs. Fishbourne and Miiller, after partaking of tea, I had some agreeable conversation, and then went forward to join the crew in evening prayers. Shortly afterwards I returned on board my own ship, where, all being confusion, I was obliged to make my bed on the cabin floor. I needed not a hard bed to keep me awake ; my thoughts were painfully and anxiously engaged by the scenes which I had just passed through, and the prospects before me. My spirit found consolation and rest, light and strength, however, in Him who has sworn that He will not forsake any who put their trust in Him. .-> LP VVI. V'l.i.t.WH.II. _tj|f/. — Got ti|i thta morning but little refreshed, rhi: night having been cold, and everything meeting me in a cheerless form. Having an opportunity of communicating to my dear iViends.

I availed myself of it, and at 8 \.M.. wrote tct them, and thus* relieved, in some degree, the burden oi'my inind. All day we expected to get under weigh. Captain Washington was engaged in inspecting thrdifferent berth-, with some niinur arrangements in respect to which, made at Woolwich, he did not seem quite satisfied, At I p.m., we had steam, but our sailing nos countermanded till ihe following morning, which afforded me time to po on short and provide myself with some things which I hud neglected tn get. 21nd. — Got under weigh at 5 a.m., tbe Albert taking the lead, which she kept, steaming better than the ITtihersorft, which was more heavily laden : the wind was direct iu our teeth,. 'ind we made little way, though the water w is nut rough. When off Shei-rnessj a heavy tide and sea made against us ; and at 2 o'clock the Alliert ran foul nf us, carrying away her jib-boom; at 5, We anchored off Wisbeach for shelter. '2Srt/. — Got up anchor at 5 a.m., and with steam in a heavy sea, approached the Downs.

At 9 we parted with our pilot,. ind steering N. by W. encountered disagreeable, though not stormy weather. At noon, anchored ofl' Deal, where we remained till 4 o'clock, when we again started, aud that even ing passed S. Foreland. 34th — At G p.m., anchored oil' Portsmouth Dockyard, and {hand ourselves alongside the Qi/et-w, of 120 guns, and the !'/</.•/■>/, un board which Lord Nelson was killed. 25M-— Being Sabbath, all hands mustered in their best attire, and the articles of war were read on the quarter-ileek ; after winch we joined in the service of the Church ...f Eng land, and the captain read a sermon, the subject of ..hieh was drunkenness. I regretted to perceive that these devo tional engagements were but coldly or listlessly regarded hy many around me. STAY AT DEVON PORT. 3 26th. — The day was taken up in receiving visitors, who flocked in numbers.

I was troubled by headache, and did not recognize a friend among all who came on board. 21 th. — This having been a beautiful warm day, many more have been on board to view our ship. At 4 p.m., we got steam, and sailed round the Isle of Wight, passing close to Ryde, Cowes, and the Needles. After passing the Needles, we encountered a considerable swell, which made our vessel roll very much. We tried our sailing powers with those of the Albert, which rather had the advantage of us. 23th. — This morning brought us in sight of the coasts of Dorset and Devon ; the day was fine and the view refreshing. At 4 p.m., we anchored in company with the Albert, off the Dockyard at Devonport. I received a welcome expres sion of the interest and regard of beloved friends and kindred, in many letters. We remained several days here, a delay very irksome to most of us, but to which we became recon ciled by the hope that it would call forth a greater interest and sympathy in our mission before our complete departure from the shores of England.

My companions were all my juniors, and I experienced, without mitigation, the bitterness of separation from those with whom the soul had been accustomed to hold a hallowed and hallowing intercourse. May 12th. — From day to day our suspense has been kept up as to when we should sail ; thus every visit on shore has been to me as my last. I found out my old friend J. W — y, and paid him visits on three different days ; Mrs. W. appeared to be a serious-minded woman. After prayers and dinner on the 9th, I went on shore with the intention, in the evening, of going to church; the weather proving wet, however, I did not carry the intention into execution ; but Mr. W., after tea, read a portion of St. Mat thew's Gospel, and we united in prayer. The next day J. W. came on board and dined at our mess.

The conversation of my mates was not of the most congenial characb OFF FALMOUTH. ter to my frame of mind. I remarked it afterwards to W., who was distressed at my situation ; but it was the Lord's will — Let His will be done on earth as it is in heaven ! At 6 p.m., of the 12th, we got up anchor and sailed; however, we brought up again off Mutton Cove Steps for nearly an hour, in order to receive letters by the post just then arrived; many of my companions received the last expressions of parental and domestic love : I received no letters myself. At half-past 7 p.m., in going out of the Sound, we passed through the midst of different ships of war, from on board which we received three hearty cheers, to which we responded as we came abreast of each vessel. There was something painfully grateful to hear the lusty huzzas of 3.,000 British tars just arrived from foreign parts, under the circumstances in which we stood ; and manya heart then beating in health and youth, must have put to itself the disquieting question, when, or ever, shall I be anticipating, like these brave fellows, the fond greeting of those to whom I have been as lost ?

The breeze being from the N, and our course lying to the S.S.W., we went cheerfully along with flowing sheet and steam, and, at 9, were abreast the Eddystone Lighthouse, and the light at Falmouth in our view : at midnight we passed the Lizard and the Scillys, and by sunrise the Albert was alongside keeping in company. 13th. — The wind and weather continue in our favour : this day all hands were summoned, and the various duties of the ship distributed to each. Pursers are not generally much liked by the service, owing to the nature of their duties ; but these are arranged differently with us, and any coolness with which our purser is regarded is to be accounted for by the character of that officer, which is more serious than is generally appreciated : setting aside an unnecessary degree of re serve, there is nothing I find to complain of in him, and much to imitate.

May God shower down His own spirit upon us, and may the unity of His spirit distinguish us ! BAY OF BISCAY. — SABBATH AT SEA. 5 14///. — To-day the wind is more on our quarter, with a smooth sea, and having the benefit of steam and sails, we make about seven knots by the hour; our latitude 47° we are about half-way across the Bay of Biscay. The Albert keeps faithfully by our side or within sight of us. 16//_ — This I may say is our first Sabbath at sea. The en gagements of the previous day gave tokens of its approach by the busy clearing and putting in order of everypart ofthe vessel. The day is fine, and the prospect on all sides congenial to devotion. Since we left England the sea has been, for the most part, serene as a lake, and the Bay of Biscay has not yet realised any of the descriptions I have read of it.

I have reason to be thankful, as my nights are comfortable, and I am not troubled by headaches as I have been accustomed to be ; my sleeping space is only one foot and a half by seven. I rise an hour earlier than most of my companions, and my thoughts are much kept to myself, for I find none with whom I can freely exchange them. At half-past 10 o'clock all hands were mustered on the poop, and inspected with great minute ness, during which the captain and first lieutenant, along with the surgeon, examined every corner and crevice of the vessel. At 11, the bell tolled for divine service — a solitary sound upon the vast abyss, unlike the bell echoing to bell in hea venly harmony, in the hills and dales of my native mountain land — and our little congregation was soon gathered. The service was conducted by the captain, assisted by Lieutenant Strange, in a truly devotional manner, and was seemingly followed in the same spirit.

The text was in Zechariah, 8th and 13th, " And it shall come to pass, as you were a curse among the heathen, O house of Judah and house of Israel, so will I save you and ye shall be a blessing," which the preacher applied to the sailor, hitherto a curse and a pollu tion to the lands he visited, but now, he hoped, to prove a blessing to them, the harbinger of good and gracious things. He sought to animate his hearers with the desire and resolti- ARRIVE AT MADEIRA. tion to become, in the benighted land whither their course was bent, as a light set upon a hill. May the Lord follow the words of the preacher with His rich and effectual blessing. The weather has become warm, and we proceed at the rate of about six knots, when assisted by steam. 19th. — Wednesday. For the last three days we have con tinued to proceed prosperously, occasionally, only, taking the benefit of steam, as our fuel is now reduced to what will suf fice for about three days' consumption.

This day we are in lat. 36° 30', and are in hopes of seeing the island of Madeira on Friday evening. The Albert and we keep together, and frequently exchange signals, which relieves our monotony. 21s/. — At 7 a.m., we were at anchor in Funchal roads, Madeira, from which, on all sides, the prospect is of the most enchanting character. At 10 o'clock, in company with some ladies and gentlemen who had come off to view the ships, I went on shore, and was guided by a youth to the house of my old friend Dr. Ross. Here I received a most affectionate welcome, and was invited to take up my residence while the expedition remained at Madeira. I met, at Dr. Ross's, a reverend gentlemen of the name of Freeman (of the English church), a sweet, subdued, christian, who entered into con versation in a very devoted manner, and on his leaving he pronounced his blessing upon the expedition and upon my self, as an humble individual connected with it.

Shortly after, two ladies called, when I temporarily retired. On my return I was pleased to find in them the Misses Mclntosh of Reigmore, kind friends of my sister ; they were to leave for England in a few days, when they undertook to be the bearers of letters for me, and to see my friends and acquaint them with all they saw or heard that was of interest to them or to me. In the course of the same day I was introduced to two inmates of the Dr.'s house, Mr. Wilmot, a son of Sir A. Wilmot, and a Rev. Mr. Burns, of the Scotch church, both amiable and pious men, apparently. After dinner, at 4 o'clock, SCEM.lt. AT MAIIEIRA. . the Dr. took me a delightful ride to the vineyard of Dr. Olviuda. a Portuguese, a man of enlarged mind and feelings, and of good property. The estate which «c visited bad been in his family for a long period, aud was quite a model: the vineyard, he informed us, produced annually about 33 pipes of wiuc.

The fruit season had not. arrived, so that 1 was deprived of a treat ; but the fragrance of the foliage was delightful, and the conduits of water passing along the bottom of ihe terraces, gave a refreshing coolness to the scene. Of tbe strawberry, which is earlier ripe than the other fruits, I partook freely. From Dr. Olvieda'.. we proceeded in our ridi: to the race-course, from which we had a commanding view of the port and bay, with its numerous shipping, and the town, at our feet, studded here aud there with nature's luxuriance, gathered from the temperate and torrid zones. I felt quite elated by the scene, and for a moment yielded to the delightful dream that this was the place in which happi ness could be realised ; too easily forgetting that God hath not centred happiness iu place or rank, but in a mind con formed aud resigned to Hia will, which is often most incrci tul when it least appears so.

On our return, we came by the western extremity ofthe town, which enabled my kind li-ieml and guide to introduce me to Mr. Hallily aud family, of whom 1 had beard before. We found several ladies in company with Mr. and Mrs. H., one of whom advanced to me, and 1 was pleased, at this distance from home, to find myself recog hiijed after an evening spent iu her company in Edinburgh. We remained only a short time at Mr. fL.% as the evening was drawing to a close, but parted with a promise, if possible, to see them ngoln. 1 joined in family di-votions with the. Dr/s circle at night, and retired to a bed mice mure on land, both Oppressed and relieved by crowding thoughts. 22nd.— Got up this morning ut U, quite refreshed and in .igorated, all nature around me singing or speaking Ihe Great Creator's praise. 1 took a .hm-t. walls from the Dr.'* house.

ORCHARDS AT MADEIRA. In front there was quite a precipice, and the walk so slip pery as to require the horses bearing burdens to be rough shod. On my descending I was startled by a noise of voices, and on turning to my left, I discovered in a square, a squad of rather awkward recruits, who, at every motion of the rifle, bellowed out ; their drill serjeants appeared to use them after a rough fashion. I was invited to dine with a party at some little distance, to which I proceeded, in company with some others, on horseback. The road was precipitous, and our pas sage was assisted by horse-conductors, who presented a ludicrous picture, sometimes holding on, as is the practice of the place, at our chargers' tails ! The host received us kindly, and, desirous of pleasing me, a stranger, immediately after we had taken some rest, guided us over his grounds, which were most tastefully and expensively laid out.

I observed numerous varieties of the oak which he had raised from the acorn, and which had stood for about twenty y-ears ; they were particularly healthy and promising in their appearance, the skin of the bark clear, and perfectly free from any moss or cork. At dinner the party was joined by Captains Trot ter and William Allen ; the Ashantee princes, who had been expected, by not coming, gave some disappointment to the ladies. Our way homewards, on horseback and in palan quins, was enlivened by different views which were pointed out by the ladies. We were much struck by that of the Small Coral. On arriving at my kind entertainer's house, a new scene was presented. Death with hasty strides was asserting his right, and, before breakfast the following morning, another was added to the many victims of consumption for whom a grave has been dug at Madeira.

This was a Mr. Johnstone, the only son of his parents ; he was cut off in his 29th year. 23rd. — I went on board ship and heard a sermon read by the captain, from an appropriate text, in the course of which he incited us to carry the evidence of our Christian CHURCHYARD AT MADEIRA. 9 profession in our lives, and that thus among the benighted Africans it might be shown that ours was the living and true God. Dr. Ross came on board, and after inspecting the vessel, its ventilating apparatus, my quarters, &c, I returned with him on shore. In the evening I attended the episcopal church, and heard the Rev. Mr. Low preach from the text, " Straight is the way, and narrow is the road that leads to life eternal;" he delivered the prayers in an impressive and devotional manner. The churchyard, which is situated a little way from the church, was beautifully fenced by the gera nium which spread its fragrance around, and stately poplars were to be seen here and there, and the weeping willow appro priatelyshaded many a grave in which the young and beautiful had found a premature rest.