Travels in Circassia, Krim Tartary, &c : including a steam voyage down the Danube from Vienna to Constantinople and round the Black Sea in 1836

Letter I. Paoe

Return to the Crimea — English Residents — Departure for the Ancient Capital of Krim-Tartary — Ascent of the Ai-Petri — Scenery — Singular Steppe on the Summit of the Mountain — Perilous Descent — Hospitable Reception at the House of a Mourza — Aspect ofthe Inhabitants — Tartar Villages — General Character of the Country — Tendency of Mahometanism 1

Letter II

Bagtche-Serai as it is — Palace ofthe Khans — Singular Arabic Inscriptions — Wanton Barbarity ofthe Russians — Environs — Gipsy Village — Inhabitants — Ancient Church and Convent — Visit to the Jewish Fortress Tschoufout- Kale — Cemetery — Notice on the Religion of the Karaite Jews 14

Letter III

Valley of Baidar — Scenery — Hospitality of the Tartars — Passage ofthe Merdven — Terrific Descent — Singular Construction of the Road — Arrival at Aloupka CONTENTS. VI

Letter IV. Page

Chateau of Count Worrenzow at Aloupka— Its Architecture — Pleasure-grounds — Marsanda — Its Villa — Situ ation and Park — Villas of the Russian Nobility — The Emperor's Park at Orianda — The Crimea unfavourable to the Growth of Forest Trees — Fete Champetre given by General Count De Witt 36

Letter V

Absence of British Shipping in the Euxine — Voyage to Sevastopol — Iphigenia Corvette — Captain Poothatin — Errors in the Nautical Magazine — Russian Naval Force — Sevastopol in its present State — Harbour — Fortifications — Singular Beauty of the Stone — Arsenal — Dock-yards — Aqueduct — Activity ofthe Russian Government — Prevalence of Ophthalmia among the Troops at Sevastopol 45

Letter VI

A few Observations upon the present State of the Rus sian Empire 56

Letter VII

Inefficient State of the Russian Navy — Russian Venal ity and Peculation — Inadequate Salaries of the Public Functionaries — Additions to the Russian Treasury — Multiplication of Towns — Towns without Inhabitants — Comparison between Odessa and its Rivals — Advance of Intelligence among the Russian People — Vanity a Feature in the National Character 67

Letter VIII

Ancient Geography and Antiquities of the Minor Pen insula—Ctenus of Strabo— Eupatorium— Chersonesus — CONTENTS. VII PAG- 102 Propensity of the Russians to destroy Antiquities — Sub terranean Town in the Rocky Caverns at Inkerman — Danger of the Climate — Supposed Origin of the Town — Bay of Balaclava — Decay of Trade — Excursion to Simpheropol 78

Letter IX

Simpheropol — Contrast between the Russians and Tartars — Sultan Krim-Guerrai— Ascent of the Tschatir- Dagh, or Mons Trapezus— Prospect — Ferocity of the Shepherds' Dogs — A Turkish Fray — Journey across the Steppe — Tartar Guides — Steppe Bivouacking — Steppe Roads — Difficulty of Travelling — Badness of the Water — Inclemency of the Winters 88

Letter X

Steppe Travelling — Character of the Tartars con trasted with that ofthe Colonists — Aspect ofthe Coun try— Insects — Mosquitoes — Intermittent Fevers — The Rana Variabilis — Salt-Marshes — Observations on the Unhealthiness of the Climate — Venomous Reptiles — Beauty of the Flowers — The Jerboa. — Suslik — Suroke . .

Letter XI

Arrival at Perecop — Annual Diminution of the Black Sea, and the Sea of Azov — Decrease of the Rivers that flow into them — Sterility of the Soil of the Crimea — Its ancient Fertility — Decrease of the Population — Original Inhabitants — Historical Sketch — -The Khans of Krim-Tartary — Causes which led to the Dismember ment of their Empire — ■ Political Intrigues of Russia — Final Subjection of the Country to that Power 113

Letter XII

Distinction between the Tartar of the Crimea, the Nogay Tartar, and the Calmuck — Natural Quickness b CONTENTS. PAGE 125 of the Intellect of the Tartars — Their Flocks and Herds — Utility of the Horse to the Tartars — Their Disposition to a Nomadic Life — Hatred of the Cossack, and Squab bles with the Colonists — Their Customs and Manners — Marriage — Slavish State of the Women in the East. . . .

LETTER XIIL

Customs and Manners of the Tartars continued — Their Children — Diseases — Hospitality — Industry — Love of Dress — Ornaments — Superstition — Doctors — Patience under Affliction — Ceremonies of Interment — Privilege of wearing a Beard — Language — Character — Music — Amusements — Smoking — Improved State of the Inhabitants of Krim-Tartary under the Russian Go vernment — Character of the Governor-General Count Worrenzow 139

Letter XIV

Journey from Perecop to Eupatoria — Tartar Carriage — Moullah and his Wife — Arrival at Eupatoria — Its Decrease of Trade and Population — A Tartar Inn — Arrival of a Mysterious Traveller — A novel Mineral Bath — Poverty ofthe Tartars — Their Dwelling-houses Danger ofthe Climate to Strangers — Long Drought — Steppe on Fire — Locusts — Voyage to Odessa — Battle between the Inhabitants and the Locusts 154

Letter XV

Picture of Odessa — Disadvantageous Situation — Scar city of Water and Fuel — Insalubrity of the Climate — Harbour — Decrease of Commerce — Passports — Venality of the Russian Authorities 167

Letter XVI

Journey through Bessarabia and Moldavia to Galatz — Steppe — Colonists— Barbarity ofthe Russian Go- CONTENTS. IX PAGE 197 vernment towards the Jews — Russian Serfs — Cossacks — Bender — Primitive Caravans — Facility of Posting in Russia — Steppe Roads — Arrival at Galatz 177

Letter XVII

Steam-boat Voyage to Trebizond — Passengers — Excessive Partiality of the Turks for Steam-boat Travelling — Advantages of Steam Navigation — Coast of Asia- Minor — Arrival at Trebizond — Increasing Prosperity of the Town — English Commerce — Harbour — Caravan- Sarai — Hints to Merchants — Antiquity of Trebizond — Climate — Environs — Fertility of the Soil 1 87

Letter XVIII

Difficulties attending a Visit to the Caucasus — Do mineering Influence of Russia in Turkey — Feeble State of the Ottoman Empire— Sympathy of the Turks for the Circassians — Departure for Circassia in a Turkish Brig antine — Chased by a Russian Man-of-War — An unexpected Discovery— Superb View ofthe Caucasian Alps

Letter XIX

Arrival at Pchad — Circassian Boats resembling the Kamara of Strabou — Bay of Pchad — Russian Settle ment — Causes that led to their Expulsion — Circassian Language — Hints to Travellers — Characteristics ofthe Inhabitants — Martial Appearance — Costume — Weapons 208

Letter XX

Second Excursion into the Interior of Circassia — General Appearance of the Circassian Territory — Arrival at the Residence of a Pchi-Khan — His Hospitality — Domestic Manners — Mode of Living — Visit of a Circassian Prince . -. CONTENTS. X PAGE 232

Letter XXI

Departure for the Residence of a Circassian Chief — Romantic Character of the Scenery — Colony of Krim- Tartars — Alpine Village — Abundance of Game — Arrival at the Residence ofthe Chief — His Appearance and Manners — Interior of a Circassian Dwelling House — A Nocturnal Serenade in Circassia — War-cry ofthe Circassians — Introduction to the Family ofthe Chief — Beauty of the Women — Their Manners and Costume — Occupations of the Circassians

Letter XXII

Suspicious Feeling of the Circassians towards Foreigners — Journey to the Valley of Thumusse — Arrival at the Circassian Camp — Situation — Circassian Gue rillas — Their Mode of Fighting — A Reconnaissance — Fortunate Escape — A Russian Spy 248

Letter XXIII

Plans of Russia for the Subjection of Circassia — Preparations of the Confederated Tribes to oppose the Progress of Russia — Departure for the Circassian Camp on the Ubin — Beautiful Scenery — Arrival at the Camp — Display of the National Banner — Enthusiasm ofthe People 264

Letter XXIV

Public Assembly — Oration of an Aged Warrior — Patriotism of the Circassians — Determination to main tain their Independence — Disadvantages they labour under with regard to Weapons of Defence — Visit of a Friendly Stranger to the Caucasus — Popularity of England in Circassia CONTENTS. XI

Letter XXV. Paoe

Developement of Russian Policy in the Caucasus — Attachment of the Circassian Chiefs to the National Cause — Ultimate Views of Russia with regard to the Occupation of the Caucasus — Her Hostility to English Interests — Policy of England with respect to Circassia — Consequences of British Interference 283

Letter XXVI

Right of Circassia to be considered Independent, as proved by Russia — Russian Ukase — Russian Violation of Treaties — Right of International Interference — Visit of a British Naval Officer to Circassia — Consequences resulting from it 292

Letter XXVII

New Russian Settlement at Aboun — Excursion to the Kouban — r- Cossack Guard-houses — Animosity be tween the Circassians and the Tchernemorsky Cossacks — Character of the Tchernemorsky Cossacks — Preda tory Habits ofthe Borderers— Insalubrity ofthe Country on the Banks of the Kouban 301

Letter XXVIII

Caucasian Scenery — Aspect of the Country — Industry of the Inhabitants — Their Personal Appearance — Villages — Population — Character ofthe Circassians Liability of Travellers to be seized as Slaves— Arrival at the House of a Demirghoi Prince — His Hospitality — Manner of Living — Abstemious Habits of the Circassians 318

Letter XXIX

Camp of the Demirghoi Chieftain — Warlike Habits ofthe People — Capture of a Russian Corvette — Expe diency of adopting the National Customs of a Country CONTENTS. PAGE 329 345 — Circassian Music — Their Musical Instruments — Me lodies — War Songs — Improvvisatores — Bards — Poetry

Letter XXX

Similarity of the Tumuli in the Caucasus to those of Krim-Tartary — Interior of a Tumulus — Few Remnants of Antiquity to be found in the Caucasus — Grecian Medals — Respect for Justice evinced by the Circassian — Misrepresentations of Russian Writers respecting them

Letter XXXI

Skill of the Circassians as Agriculturists — Their Kindness and Hospitality — Fertility of the Soil — Superb Forests — General View ofthe Country— -Primitive Man ners ofthe People — Their Mills— Granaries — Cattle — Game — Wild Animals 355

Letter XXXII

Circassian Manner of Living — Practice of selling their Women — Its tendency to civilize the People — Cir cassian Marriage — Stoicism ofthe Circassians — Social State of the People — Morals — Method of punishing Criminals — Courts of Justice — Sacred Groves — Cri minal Enactments — Circassian Adroitness in Thieving — Mode of Education 368

Letter XXXIII

Christian Observances still exhibited in the Manners and Customs of the Circassians — Religion of the Circassians — Superstition — Ceremonies — Burial 387

Letter XXXIV

Caucasian Doctors — Maladies ofthe People — Mode of Treating the Sick — Cure for the Epilepsy — Cure for Hydrophobia — Singular Case of Somnambulism — Ad- CONTENTS. XIII PA0E vantages of a Farinaceous over a Carniverous Diet — Respect of the Circassians for Old Age — Their Charity — Superstition 400

Letter XXXV

Origin ofthe name ofthe Caucasus — Extent of Territory belonging to the Independent Tribes of Circassia — The Caucasian Race — The Circassians — Their supposed Origin — Names of the Tribes included in the Confederation — Amount of their Military Force — Form of Government LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL II. The Sangiac Sheriff of the Confederated Princes of Circassia Frontispiece. Circassian Chieftain and Family Title. Tartar Peasants in the Crimea page 1 Passage of the Merdven 34 View of a Church and Convent in the Rocks at Inkerman 78 Farm Yard, with Nogay Tartars 139 View of Eupatoria, in Krim Tartary 1.54 View of the Bay of Pchad 208 Reception Room of a Circassian Prince 232 Meeting of the Confederated Princes of Circassia on the banks of the Ubin 270 Circassian Melodies, arranged for the Piano-Forte . TARTAR PEASANTS.

Letter I. Return To The Crimea English Residents Depar Ture For The

ANCIENT CAPITAL OF KRIM-TARTARY — ASCENT OF THE AI-PETRI SCENERY SINGULAR STEPPE ON THE SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAIN PERILOUS DESCENT HOSPITABLE RECEPTION AT THE HOUSE OF A MOURZA ASPECT OF THE INHABITANTS TARTAR VILLAGES GE NERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY TENDENCY OF MAHOMETANISM. July 9th, 1836. MY DEAR ALMARIC, We now bade adieu to the Caucasus, steering with a fair wind for the Crimea, where we arrived, after a delightful voyage of a few days, and landed at Yalta, some wersts distant VOL. II. b RETURN TO THE CRIMEA. from the country-seat of Count Worrenzow, to which we immediately proceeded. Thus terminated my coasting tour, which, so far as regarded the Circassians, had produced no other effect than to stimulate my curiosity ; and this I was determined to gratify at all hazards, as soon as I had discovered the most practicable method of penetrating into the interior of the country.

In the interim, I purposed availing myself of the opportunity I possessed to explore some portion of the ancient dominions of the Khans of Krim-Tartary. The south coast of this peninsula, with its valleys, mountains, and romantic scenery, is not inappropriately termed the Switzerland of Rus sia ; and, during summer, is generally filled with Russian travellers of distinction, who this year had come in greater numbers than usual, to learn from the governor-general the details of his interesting voyage : in consequence of which, the chateau of his excellency became the scene of a series of splendid entertainments ; the ves sels of war that accompanied us lay at anchor in the bay of Aloupka ; the officers were the daily guests of the count, and the midshipmen those of his son, a fine youth of about fourteen.

As the details of our host's hospitable festi vities cannot prove interesting to you, I shall ENGLISH RESIDENTS. forbear giving them, especially as my taste for retirement and solitary rambles rendered me, for the most part, an absentee from their gaieties. I spent my time principally in ascending the lofty hills, exploring the secluded valleys, and visiting the peaceful cots of the kind Tartars. I was also fortunate in meeting several of my country men ; for his excellency, being well aware of their superior intelligence and industry, employs them in preference to the natives of any other country. His own splendid chateau at Aloupka, designed by Mr. Blore of London, and erecting under the able superintendence of Mr. Hunt, will remain a lasting monument of English taste. His steward and homme d'affaires is Mr. Jack son ; his most trusted physician, Dr. Prout ; the governess of his only daughter, Mrs. Amet ; to Mr. Upton, an English engineer, he has dele gated the construction of the Admiralty docks at Serastopol ; and, through his recommendation, the laying out of the magnificent park and pleasure-ground belonging to the emperor at Ori anda, has been confided to Mr. Ross, a native of Caledonia.

In every person he has selected, Count W. has been most fortunate ; and, whether we con sider their superior talents or exemplary con duct, they are worthy of their country. During my rambles through the Crimea, I was alter nately the guest of each; so that I do not depend merely upon rumour for my testimony in their favour. In the society of the intel lectual and excellent Dr. Prout, I possessed a never-failing resource : and I shall ever remember with pleasure the days I spent with him and his amiable family, at their pretty little villa at Marsanda, and the agreeable rides and prome nades we made together through the beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood. To the accounts of my countrymen I am in debted for many interesting details of the Cri mea and its inhabitants, — details which it would have been impossible for me to acquire, if left to my own unassisted resources.

But, above all, I have to thank the governor-general for the va rious facilities he placed at my disposal for the prosecution of my journey. I was presented with a firman in the Tartar language, which would ensure horses and other conveniences during my route. My kind host also permitted one of his aides-de-camp, Count Galateri, to ac company me, together with his dragoman, M. Courlanzoff, a talented young Russian, who had recently returned from China. Our first excursion to the interior of the country lay through Bagtche-Serai, the ancient capital of Krim-Tartary ; but, as we had to cross one of the lesser peaks of the stupendous moun tain, Ai-Petri, without road, or, indeed, any in dication whatever to aid the traveller, we pro vided ourselves with a Tartar guide and Tartar horses, the only animals who, from the force of long habit, can be depended upon in climbing up these perilous rocks, and descending the steep declivities.

On leaving the pretty village of Aloupka, the country gradually ascended, becoming wildly romantic; and, after climbing up a precipitous alpine pass, through rocks, tangled brushwood, and trees, we at length attained the dizzy heights above the sea. Being now at a very considerable elevation, we enjoyed a most extensive prospect, comprising some of the boldest scenery in the peninsula : to the right and left we had rocks upon rocks, of stupendous magnitude, — their craggy summits piercing the blue æther, here projecting in vast promontories, there receding, and forming numerous bays, — and before us the boundless expanse of the Euxine. The view, indeed, embraced a vast horizon; yet, I think, I never beheld a mountain panorama less varied in its features, nor one in which the eye becomes sooner weary.

This is owing to the rocks being nearly similar in form, and almost destitute of vegetation, and to the short space intervening between them and the sea ; consequently, the whole of the beautiful scenery along the coast (which, for fertility and rural beauty, cannot be too much admired) becomes in great part lost, or so diminished in size as to be scarcely visible, leaving no other objects to fill up the picture than rocks and water. Hence the disappointment of many travellers who have ascended these stupendous peaks, with the expectation of being rewarded by a splendid prospect. In short, it is only while wandering on the south coast, where we find luxuriant groves of mulberries, pears, figs, laurels, &c. or through its sequestered valleys, with their interesting rural Tartar population, that we are awakened to admiration and pleasure.

On descending about a hundred paces from the rock, we arrived at a mountain plateau, about four wersts in length, — a perfect steppe, entirely destitute of foliage, or any other object to relieve the dreary monotony of this solitary wilderness. From thence we commenced a most terrific descent, through a dense forest of stunted oaks and pines ; and, neither road nor path presenting itself, our guide seemed to follow the bed of a dried-up waterfall, for the round loose stones kept continually rolling beneath our horses' feet. Dreadful precipices yawned at every angle, so that one false step would have been sufficient to involve riders and horses in irre trievable destruction. I attempted to descend by the assistance of my own supporters, but soon found it impossible to maintain my footing ; then, as a last resource, I committed my safety to the noble animal that carried me, threw the bridle over his neck, and left him completely to his own guidance.

Some times, in spite of the sagacious care with which he stepped, the stones gave way, and he slid down several yards, until he perceived the root of a tree, or a large stone, against which he never failed to plant his foot, for the purpose of recovering his equilibrium. The instinctive intelligence he exhibited to avoid falling, was really admirable ; and we actually arrived, after a ride of four hours, without the slightest acci dent, at the base of the mountain. Sometimes, indeed, one or other of our party, — particularly Mr. Richter, an artist from Dresden, who joined us on the road, — not having been accustomed to such neck-breaking equestrianism, was more than once caught in the boughs of the almost im penetrable thickets entwined above our heads, where he hung suspended between earth and heaven, like the Prince of Israel ; but, instead of being pierced with a spear, he was greeted by his comrades with loud peals of laughter.

The shades of night had just set in as we arrived at a considerable Tartar village, called Kokkos, where we were most hospitably enter tained by a rich mourza, who slew a young kid for the occasion, and treated us, in addition, with several other eastern delicacies. There were the never-failing pilaff, the chichlik and kefti, together with tarts and preserved fruits of various kinds. Our beds were also those common to the children ofthe East — mattrasses laid on the floor, with cushions and coverlets. The next morning, at day-break, our coffee and tchi bouques were ready ; and, after making another hearty meal, we re-commenced our journey, not a little gratified with the kind reception of our hospitable host, and also with the extreme cleanliness of every object with which we came in contact.

Our route lay through a fertile valley, watered by the Kabarda, a considerable stream ; the road was tolerable, and the scenery, if not beautifully picturesque, at least novel, which epithet was also applicable in an especial degree to the cos tume and manners of the inhabitants. The rocks which skirted the valley, jutting up per pendicularly, and of an equal height, formed a perfect natural fortification ; appearing, in one place, as if chiselled by the hand of man, and in another resembling piles of gigantic books laid on the shelves of a library. The fields were filled with men, women, and children, either reaping the corn or engaged in some other agri cultural pursuit. Here we saw the moullah, with his snow-white turban ; the mourza, in his braided coat and cap; together with the peasant, attired in his light jacket, wide trousers, fur cap, and sandals.

In the distance might be seen the shepherd, with his long crook, seated on a cliff, surrounded by his bleating flock, and extracting most doleful melody from his pipe. Then the women were certainly striking ob jects, wrapped completely in the ample drapery ofthe white f err edge, which gave them not only a graceful, but a coquettish air. Sometimes a youthful dame condescended to present us with a glimpse of her gazelle eye ; but, finding she was observed, again imprisoned her pretty cap tives behind the folds of her veil. Camels loaded with heavy packages, and looking most serious and important, silently and slowly paced along the road ; and, that music might not be wanting, we were continually greeted with that most in harmonious of all sounds, the creaking of the Tartar waggons : these, being made entirely of wood, and never greased, formed, when proceed ing in trains, a concert of discords which no traveller whose ears have sustained the shock will ever forget.

The appearance of the Tartar villages at a distance is very singular, having much the effect of rabbit-holes. This you will readily believe, when I say that they are generally built on the brow of a hill, or burrowed into its side ; and, owing to the circumstance that they consist only of one story, with a single facade, their flat roofs being level with the earth above, I more than once found myself walking on the top of a range of houses, without perceiving my error. The interior of these odd-looking dwellings was correspondingly original. Here sat the men and women, in true Asiatic style, on the floor, smoking their long pipes; or, by way of cool variety, on the house-tops, or beneath the little verandas, to catch the few breezes as they passed. The children, with their hair, eye-brows, and finger-nails dyed red according to the most approved notions of Tartar beauty, were play ing about without any clothing to impede the freedom of their movements ; their little heads often decorated with a profusion of coins, and various amulets to preserve them from sorcery, the evil eye, &c. Rich Karaite Jews, and Armenians in their peculiarly splendid costume, ambled along on their well-fed mules : these were diversified by considerable numbers of Swabian colonists, in precisely the same close cap, short petticoats of many folds, red stockings, and high-heeled shoes, that we find in Swabia in the present day ; neither must I forget to insert in my cata logue the gypsies, who, unhappily for the Crimea, are too numerous.

They are the mu sicians, showmen, professors of great and petty larceny ; in short, the worst part of the popu lation. Several of the villages through which we passed were exceedingly rural : a running stream was, almost invariably, the accompaniment ; for water, in this parched country, for the purpose of irrigation, is indeed a blessing. Oak, beech, wild pear, cherry, and crab trees, lined the sides of the cliffs, springing out of every fissure in the rocks ; and the valley itself teemed with orchards, green meadows, and corn-fields, occasionally inter spersed with the mulberry, fig, pomegranate, apricot, poplar, and walnut trees, whose luxuriant foliage not only formed beautiful and fragrant canopies, and protected us from the scorching rays of the sun, but imparted to the little cots a pleasing appearance of great fertility.

The walnut-tree is very popular with the Tartars ; for, as it grows here to an enormous size, we every where find it throwing the broad shade of its wide-spreading foliage over their humble abodes. As the Tartars profess Mahometanism, each village is adorned with its pretty mosque. How often do I recall to memory the sound of the moullah's voice, issuing from the summit of the unpretending minaret, bidding the faithful to prayer ! and, though we cannot subscribe to the veracity of the faith, yet true devotion, whether exhibited by Christian or Moslem, must always, we trust, be acceptable to a just and merciful God ; and I do not believe that the piety of any people upon the face of the earth is more sincere than that of the Tartars. We have the authority of Paley for believing, that " the man who is in earnest about religion cannot be a bad man."

At all events, the truth of this observation is exemplified in the character of this people ; for they are at once unsophisticated, kind-hearted, hospitable, and, above all, strictly honest. Indeed, the simpli city of the forms of the Mahometan religion are peculiarly well adapted to the habits of a quiet pastoral people like the Tartars; and every attempt hitherto made by Russian missionaries to convert them to Christianity, has proved abortive. However, this failure is, in some degree, to be attributed to their implacable hatred of the Rus sians ; and, as the creed of Islamism does not inculcate mercy and forgiveness, this feeling is very likely to be perpetuated from generation to generation. Nor can we be surprised at such an inveterate, enduring animosity, when we hear the details of the cruelties, rapine, and barba rities, practised upon this unhappy people by that most unprincipled conqueror, Potemkin, and his iniquitous agents; individual instances of which were related to me, both by foreigners and natives, with as much vivacity, and fresh ness of colouring, as if they had only happened yesterday.

Should you feel desirous of perus ing a lengthened catalogue of these atrocities, I would recommend to you the work of Mons. T. Castera, on Catherine II. , the most correct and unprejudiced of any that exists, and which was written in reply to the misrepresentations of Voltaire, who, it is notorious, preferred Russian gold to truth. Adieu. BAGTCHE-SERAI.

Letter II. Bagtche-serai As It Is Palace Of The Khans Singular Arabic

INSCRIPTIONS WANTON BARBARITY OF THE RUSSIANS ENVIRONS GIPSY VILLAGE INHA BITANTS ANCIENT CHURCH AND CONVENT VISIT TO THE JEWISH FORTRESS TSCHOUFOUT-KALF. CEMETERY NOTICE ON THE RELIGION OF THE KARAITE JEWS. The country declined much in fertility and beauty, on approaching the capital ; and we now first entered upon the tiresome uniformity of the steppes of the Crimea. It was very thinly inhabited, and, owing to the entire absence of foliage, we suffered severely from the. heat of the sun. We were at once relieved from these annoyances on descending into the valley in which Bagtche-Serai is built ; and, notwithstanding it has lost the whole of its magnificence, and not more than one third of the town has escaped the devastation of the conquerors, yet enough still remains to render this resi dence of the Khans of Tartary highly interest ing—more especially as it is the only town in the BAGTCHE-SERAI. 15 Crimea to which Catherine II. conceded the privilege of being exclusively inhabited by a Tartar population : consequently, we here find the national character preserved in its purity.

The situation is highly romantic, being built partly on the banks of the Djourouk-Sou, and partly on the craggy sides of two steep rocky mountains which enclose the valley. The as pect of the buildings, the manners, customs, and costumes of the inhabitants, are strictly oriental. There are bazaars, mosques, with their minarets, chiosks, and cemeteries, groves of cypresses and black poplars, terraced gardens and vineyards, that appear to hang in air ; and, more than proud Stamboul can boast, the eye is every where delighted by the aspect of its bub bling fountains and ever-running crystal springs. The streets, in accordance with the custom of the East, are narrow and badly paved ; and that running through the centre of the town is at least a werst in length. Here we see every trade and handicraft, from that of a builder to a pin maker, exercised in public by the industrious inhabitants : even the usual domestic occupations are carried on in the streets ; and this town being the grand depot for the sale ofthe fruits, tobacco, flax, and corn, ofthe surrounding country, I often found my passage through the narrow streets BAGTCHE-SERAI. completely blocked up by pyramids of some of these articles.

We took up our abode at the palace of the Khans, the most splendid and interesting Tartar building in the Crimea. During the late repairs, the Russian government had the good taste to preserve its original character, even to the very colour of the painting, paper, &c. The furniture, which is not yet entirely completed, is, I understand, also to retain its original forms. Here we have the seraglio, with its gardens and baths, the turreted chiosk, the elegant mosque, the hall of audience, with its latticed gallery, where the favourite dames of the Khan were allowed, unseen, to contemplate the brilliant assemblage of nobles, warriors, &c. beneath. But now all is silent — silent as the grave : no footstep echoes through its lofty gilded halls, save that of the keeper; no moullah, from the graceful minaret, calls the faithful to prayer; no fair captive now sighs for liberty within the ramparts of a seraglio prison.