Turkey, Russia, the Black Sea, and Circassia. Third thousand, with illustrations, etc

Front matter

TURKEY, RUSSIA, THE BLACK SEA, AND CIRCASSIA LONIKOT : H. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. SC HAM I L BEY TURKEY, RUSSIA, THE BLACK SEA, AND CIECASSIA. BY CAPT. SPENCER, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CIRCASSIA," " WESTERN CAUCASUS," " TRAVELS IN EUROPEAN TURKEY," ETC. Spirit Sfjoimittr. WITH COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS, NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, AND A MAP. LONDON : GEOKGE EO UT LEDGE <fe CO. FARRINGDON STREET. 1854. The Publishers reserve the right of authorizing a Translation, of this Work CONTENTS. Introduction p. i

Chapter I

The past and present state of Hungary—Incident at an hotel — Count Szechenyi— his reforms — Triumph of Constitutional rights in Hungary — Revival of the Magyai language — Count Szechenyi as a legislator — Kossuth and his party— his great influence — Intrigues of Austria and Russia— Causes that led to the war in Hungary — Melancholy aspect of Hungary in 1850 — Character of Kossuth — Difficulties he had to contend with — Treachery of General Gorgey — Cruelty of the Austrian Government — Execution of Count Louis Bathyani — Suicidal policy of Austria — Russian influence in Austria — Irresponsible power, and its consequences . p. 9

Chapter II

National traits of the Magyars — Different races inhabiting Hungary — Characteristics of the Magyars — Their early History — Their Wars — their love of Free Institutions —Accession of the princes of the house of Austria to the throne of Hungary — Their demoralizing rule— Reflections on the policy of the princes of the houses of Habsburg p. 2S •

Chapter III

Discontent in Hungary — Some account of the Slavonian Races on the Lower Danube — Russian Panslavism — Illyrian Panslavism — Political and social state of the Slavonians — Popular Tumults — Prejudices of race — How acted upon by Austria in the Hungarian War — lllyria — Slavonian Confederacy — Territory occupied by the Slavonians — Its value as a defensive position — Critical position ofthe Austrian and Turkish Empires p. 3'/ b VI CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Steamboat voyage down the Danube, in 1850 — View of Presburg — Coronation of Ferdinand, King of Hungary — Deplorable effects of the late war— The Fortress of Komorn — Wissegrad— Arrival at Pest — Reign of terror — Woman flogging — Attempt of Austria to Germanize the Hungarians — National pride of the Hungarians — Siege of Buda — Treachery of General Gorgey — Enmity between Gorgey and Kossuth — Want of decision in Kossuth's Government — Fall of Hungary . . . p. 49

Chapter V

Departure from Pest — Effects of thelate war — Total destruction of Neusatz — The Ban of Croatia — His army — Their cruelties— General Mayerhoffer and his robber bands — Austrian vengeance — Military cordon — some account of it — Carlowitz — Historical sketch of the Servian nationality — Their warlike habits — Characteristics of the Servians — Their republican tendencies — Turkish garrisons in Servia — Importance of the flde'itjof the Servians to the Sultan — Concluding remarks . p, 59

Chapter VI

Belgrade — Servian peasantry — Semendria — Scenery on the Danube — The Iron Gate — Its peculiar features — Dangerous navigation — Whirlpools — Loss of a steamboat — Widdin and its fortifications — The importance of Kalafat — First view of the Balkan — Town and fortress of Nicopolis — Sestova — Rutschuck and its fortifications — The fortress of Turtukai and Oltenitza — importance of Silistria as a fortified position — Town and fortress of Rassova — Tchernawoda — Projected canal to the Black Sea — Opposition of Russia to its construction — Disgraceful condition of the navigation of the Danube — Fortress of Hirsova — Matschin— Isaktchi — Toultcha — Delta of the Danube — Observations upon the war between Turkey and Russia p, 77

Chapter VII

Demoralizing influence of Russia— The Moldo-Wallachians— their origin— their early history — The ancient Dacians — their wars with the Goths, Huns, and Turks — How they became annexed to the Turkish empire — Russian intrigue to obtain possession of the principalities — Disastrous effects of a Russian protectorate — ■ Sufferings of the Moldo-Wallachians during the Russian military occupation of the country p. 93

Chapter VIII

Moldo-Wallachia considered with reference to its agricultural and commercial capabilities—Mode of travelling— Characteristics of the Moldo-Wallachians — Wallachian Inns— Villages — Monasteries — Their great wealth — Superstitions of the people — Demoralizing effects of the Greek religion — The various races that inhabit Moldo-Wallachia— Boyards and peasants— Their costume — Their language Indications of their Roman origin— Distinguishing traits of the Gypsies and the Jews — Their habits, manners, and customs p. \q$ CONTENTS. VII

Chapter IX

Observations on the present state of Turkey— Condition of the Christian population under Turkish rule — Necessity for a reform in the laws relating to them— Disaffection of the Christians — Their democrat tendencies — Critical position of Turkey — Turkish legislation — The Government of Russia and Turkey contrasted — Proposed Colonization in Turkey — Insurrectionary movements of the Moldo- Wallachians in 1848 — Hostility of the liberal party to priestly interests and influence — Their attempts to form an alliance with the Hungarians — Friendly disposition of the Greek Clergy and the Boyards towards Russia — Omar Pacha and the foreign refugees in Turkey — Probable effects of their influence . . . p. 115

Chapter X

Moldo-Wallachia in a Commercial point of view — Its Exports — Productions — Government established by Russia — Faults in its administration — Venality of its Agents — The Hospodars — Prince Bibesco Sturbey of Wallachia — Prince Gregory Ghika of Moldavia — Their characters — Great Fertility of Moldo-Wallachia — Pesolate appearance of the country — Facilities and Advantages for Colonization — Tour from Galatz to Jassy — Description of Jassy — Roads in Moldavia — Posting — Caught in a Snow Storm— A Nocturnal Battle — Arrival at Boyana — The Valley of the Pruth— Tzarnowitz — Observations on the Austrian Buckowina ... p. 127

Chapter XI

Steamboat voyage from Galatz to Constantinople— The Delta of the Danube— Cossack bivouac — Insalubrity of the Delta — Observations upon the Navigation of the Black Sea— Varna— Sizopoli— Thracian Bosphorus— Annual diminution of the Black Sea and the Sea of Azow — Causes — Buyukdere — Therapia — A coast view ot Constantinople p. 146

Chapter XII

Islamism as a creed— Its effects upon the civilization of a people— Population of the Turkish Empire— Christians and Mahometans— Difficulty of settling the Turkish question — Expediency of concessions to the Christians — Primitive Christians in Turkey— Probable conversion of the Turks through their agency— Anticipation of what the present War may effect in Turkey ' p. 156

Chapter XIII

Decrease of fanaticism among the Turks— General description of Constantinople— Public; buildings— Bazaars— Mosques— Santa Sophia— The Streets— Shops and shopkeepers— Turkish music— Popular superstition— Turkish courtship— Wedding p. CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

Environs of Constantinople— Caiks and boatmen — Visit to Mount Bulgurlu — Splendid Scenery — Reflections — Excursion to Broussa — Desolated aspect of the Scenery — Description of Broussa — Encampment of the Turkomans— Visit to the Valley of the Sweet Waters p. 185

Chapter XV

Progress of Turkey as a military power— Sultan Abdul Medjid— Ms character — Turkish soldiery — their discipline — equipment — Organization of the Turkish army — The navy— Demoralizing effects of the conscription — Reforms of the Sultan — Difficulties the Government has to contend against— Influence of foreigners in Turkey — The late Cosrew Pacha — his extraordinary elevation to power — Halil Pacha — Omar Pacha — sketch of his military career p. 197

Chapter XVI

Russia — The Black Sea — Circassia— Progress of Russia in the East — Observations upon the war in the Caucasus — Facility of attacking Russia on the Black Sea- Public opinion in Europe with reference to Russia — Dangers to be apprehended to the civilization and independence of Europe from Russia p. 21 1

Chapter XVII

The Black Sea— its Navigation— How Russia obtained possession of it— Arrival at Odessa— Prosperous state of Odessa— Treaty of Adrianople — Beneficial results to Russia— Encouragement given by Russia to foreigners — Russian navy — Russian sailors — Peculation in Russia— Present political position of Russia ... p. 236

Chapter XVIII

General description of Sebastopol— Situation— Harbour— Fortifications— Sebastopol as a defensive position — Visit to a subterraneous town — Singular mountain fortress —Journey to Simpheropol— Balaclava— Its advantages as a harbour— Russians aud Tatars p_ 252

Chapter XIX

Journey to Bagtche-Sera? Tatar villages— Description of Bagtche-Serai— Historical Sketch of the Tatars— How Russia obtained possession of Krim Tatary— Tatar Tribes— Their habits— Manners— Customs— Russian Steppes— Their Peculiarities —Impossibility of cultivating them p CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XX

Journey from Bagtche-Serai — Pass of the Merdven — Beautiful scenery of the Crimea —Arrival at Aloupka — Visit of the Emperor Nicholas— Description of his person and manners — Voyage round the Black Sea — Yalta — Caffa — The Cimmerian Bosphorus — Kertch — Interesting ruins — The Isle of Taman — Tumuli — The river Kouban — Visit to the Tchernemorsky Cossacks p. 281

Chapter XXI

First View of Circassia — Anapa— Splendid Scenery — Description of Soukoum-Kale — Expedition of General Willemineff in Circassia — His reverses — Defeat and Death — Arrival at Ghelendjik — Its fine Harbour — Advantages to Russia as a military station p. 297

Chapter XXII

How Russia obtained possession of Ghelendjik — Fort — Excursion into the Interior — How Russian Military Roads are made in Circassia — Bay of Pchad— Hostility of the Circassians — Circassian War-cry — Splendid Coast Scenery — Bay of Djook — Bay of Vadran — Arrival at Pitzounda — Excursion into the Interior — Interesting Church — Bombora — Visit to a Circassian Town — Circassian Forests — Weapons of the Crusaders p. 303

Chapter XXIII

Visit to the Prince of Bombora — Sketch of a Circassian warrior — Dwelling of a Circassian chieftain — Patriotism of the chieftains of Circassia — Circassian women — Their personal appearance — Laws against immorality in Circassia — Dress of the women — Arrival at Soukoum-Kale — Miserable state of the garrison — Character of a Russian soldier — His wars in the Caucasus p. 315

Chapter XXVII

Military discipline of the Guerillas of the Caucasus— How they are maintained— Duties of a Chieftain— Increasing influence of Schamyl Bey in the Caucasus— The Bivouack— The Guerilla of the Caucasus— His endurance— Abstinence— Contrast between him and the Russian soldiers P- 366

Chapter XXVIII

General view of the Caucasus — Its productions — Articles of Commerce — System of Agriculture— Mills— Granaries— Industry of the people — Superior breed of horses —Sketch of the natural history of the Caucasus P- 374

Chapter XXIX

The Circassians — Their religion — Sacred groves— Religious oDservances — Primitive manners of the people — Their administration of justice — Code of Laws — Bards of the Caucasus — Historical records preserved in their traditions— Similarity between the Circassians and the Spartans in their manners and code of laws . . p. 383

Chapter XXX

Russia considered as a military power — Political importance of the Caucasian Isthmus — Suggestions respecting the meditated invasion of India — How to preveut it — General view of the Caucasian provinces — Concluding remarks . p. lUnstratinns, DRAWN BY H. WARREN, AND PRINTED IN COLOURS BY W. DICKES & CO. PAGE Schamyl Bey Frontispiece. The Sultan I?' The Tzar 281 A Circassian Lady 295 Wittati ditjjoiriwp. PAGE pRESBURG 9 WlSSEGRAD 52 Buda 56 Peterwardein 60 Guard-house on the Austrian Frontier 64 Servian Peasants 78 Widdin 82 Arrival at a Wallachian Inn a 107 Interior op a Wallachian Inn 110 Jasst 137 Nocturnal Battle with Wolves 142 Cossack Guardhouse 147 Constantinople 156 A Street in Constantinople 179 Coffee-house on the Bosphorus 185 Valley of the Sweet Waters 193 Turkish Soldiery 197 Varna 211 Sinope 234 Odessa 236 Sebastopol 252 Tatar Peasants 261 Tatar Farm-yard 273 Interview between Russians and Circassians 303 Interior of a Circasssian Chieftain's Dwelling 315 Guerilla Warfare in the Caucasus 330 Razzia of Circassian Guerillas TURKEY, RUSSIA, THE BLACK SEA, AND CIRCASSIA.

INTRODUCTION". It is now nearly twenty years since we first directed our wanderings towards those remote countries of Eastern Europe and Asia, rendered so interesting in our day by having become the theatre of a war, on one side at least, the most unjust and unprovoked ever recorded in the history of nations. Even at that early period, although attracted more by a love of adventure, and a desire to explore lands so little known, than by any intention of depicting their social, moral, and political condition, we learned enough of Kussian in trigue to come to the conclusion that the country we then visited would probably sooner or later become absorbed in that unwieldy mass of nationalities, creeds, and races, the Kussian empire. At each subsequent visit down to our last tour in 1851, we found the same machinery at work, but more perfected in its arrangements, by means of which Russia first demoralizes, B

Introduction

. and then destroys her victim. For, whether we wandered in Turkey or Persia, in the midst of Tatary or on the summits of the Caucasus, we were certain to find her agents ; usually either Frenchmen, Germans, Italians, or Poles, clever adven turers, who might be easily discovered by their careful training, the general information they possessed, and, above all, by the facility with which they spoke several languages ; their sole rule of action being, how or by what means they could best advance the interests of a paymaster, who rewards the tact and talent of his servants with a bountiful hand. It is scarcely necessary to remind those among our readers who may have done us the honour to peruse our former works on those remote countries of Eastern Europe and Asia, that we endeavoured to show the day was not far distant when Europe would find herself involved in a war, as fanatic in its origin, as aggressive in its spirit, as any waged by the Tatar chiefs Tamerlane or Ghenghis Khan against the liberties and civilization of mankind.

Centuries have passed away since the iiTuption of these barbarian hordes; civilization, and every art conducive to the peace and prosperity of man, have advanced with a rapidity hitherto unknown in the history of the world; yet these Slavo-Tatar tribes of Moscovy are but little in advance of their barbarian ancestors, the predatory hordes that laid in ruins some of the finest countries in our hemisphere. The present Tzar of Russia, were he in the highest degree civilized and humane, could not control a million of bayonets, officered by men who look to their sword as the means that

INTRODUCTION.

. III must win them wealth and honour. Neither can he curb an ambitious aristocracy, and a fanatic people, possessed with the belief that they are destined by heaven to propagate their own peculiar creed, the only orthodox faith, and give laws to the world. Nay, the enterprise is considered by every true Moscovite as a sacred duty, bequeathed to him to perform by Peter the Great, and he believes it to be as binding upon him to execute as if it were a command from on High. It may, therefore, be assumed that the Emperor of Russia is not altogether a free agent in the present aggression, and that any other line of policy than that of pandering to the prejudices and superstitions of a people who may have ima gined that the hour was come for carrying into execution their long meditated projects, might endanger the safety of his throne.

Be this as it may, it is certain that the war mania has assumed a fearful development among all classes in Russia, especially a war with the infidel Moslem, which opens the prospect of fresh acquisitions of lands and serfs to the grandees of the empire, and to the military the certainty of replenishing their empty coffers by rapine. This has been the motive power of all semi-barbarous con querors down to the present day: rapine in one class, and fanaticism in the other. This was the agency by which the first Peter built up his colossal empire, and this has been the policy of his successors, the means whereby they have been enabled to hold together under their rule so many hostile tribes and nationalities, prevented insurrection at home, and we know, from accounts that may be relied upon, there was

INTRODUCTION.

. no time to be lost in turning the thoughts of the public mind into a safer channel than moodily brooding over the evils in the social and political condition of the country. How, then, can the Tzar pause in his march of conquest, arrest the mighty engine of which he is the compulsory director, when the safety of the state, and the will of the nation, require that he should proceed ? What, then, is to be done with such a government, with such a people 1 " Deprive them of the power of disturbing the peace of the world, by driving them back to their barren steppes," would be the answer of any man unacquainted with the real state of Europe. It is true that either France or England might achieve such an enterprise single-handed ; but what security could either of these powers give to all the petty despots and intolerant priests of Europe, that their own democratic subjects would not rise en masse, and de throne them, when their mighty protector had lost the power to support them?

The Tzar knows this; and feeling secure of their assistance in the event of a European war, laughs at the threats of free England. Unhappily, this dread of the advance of democratic prin ciples, and its paralysing influence on the policy of the European powers, has enabled Russia, year after year, to triumph over the rights of nations, sweep vast provinces and entire kingdoms from the map of the world, and rule as dictator in the cabinets of every state in Europe and Asia. But now that the crisis has actually arrived — the long expected war of principles, which must decide whether the

INTRODUCTION.

. V Slavo-Tatar autocrat of the North is to be the ruler of the old world, or descend to his proper rank, the monarch of a semi-barbarous people — we must, admit that a heavy respon sibility devolves upon Great Britain as the representative and upholder of free institutions. It is evident that we cannot look for an ally in Austria, or among the petty princes of Germany, who have ever been too fond of temporizing when they should act, of standing isolated from each other when they should unite, of seeking to advance their individual interest, instead of endeavouring by a combined effort to aid the common cause of all. On the other hand, if we turn to the south of Europe, whether to Spain, Portugal, or Italy, we shall find, with the exception of constitutional Piedmont, that the governments of all these countries are sunk to the lowest state of degradation, bigotry, and intolerance; dungeons filled with state prisoners, and no confidence existing between the monarch and his people.

Indeed, it is only among our gallant neighbours the French, and our equally gallant cousins of the North, the Swedes, the Danes, and the Norwegians, that we can discover anything like energy or independence of character. The odds, it must be confessed, so far as the rulers of Europe are concerned, are considerably against us; but as we have already rescued the Continent from the dominion of one ambitious conqueror, we have no fear of the result in the present instance. If, therefore, the monarchs of Europe will side with the enemy, our own interest, and that of the civilization of the world, compels us to ally ourselves with

INTRODUCTION.

. VI democracy; and, thanks to the general diffusion of intelligence, the people can now estimate as it deserves the humiliating serfdom of Russia. Nay, even assuming that rivalry, clashing of interests, or any other cause, should arise to prevent France and England from combining to take advantage of the distrust and hatred now so generally existing between despotic sovereigns and their subjects, we have not the remotest doubt that free institutions will be ultimately established in every European community. At all events, we may be certain that a spirit is now spreading among nations, whose progress no efforts of either priest or despot will avail to arrest; a spirit which that promoter of civilization, the steam-engine, is the instrument of diffusing far and wide, and which must finally break down every system, institution, and prejudice, that opposes the progress of enlightenment.

The great powers, influenced by the dread of war and its consequences, may perhaps induce the belligerents to conclude a peace ; Russia and her allies may or may not ultimately triumph ; still, the great battle of opinion will only be postponed, to be contested with greater obstinacy and certainty of success by the rising generation. We shall, therefore, for the present leave the destinies of the world in the hands of France, England, and Russia, and commence our narrative, hoping to make our readers in some degree acquainted with those remote countries of Eastern Europe and Asia, which appear as if destined to become the battle-field of the old world, the spot where the greatest and

INTRODUCTION.

. VII most important question that ever agitated the inhabitants of civilized Europe is to be decided by force of arms. Independently of the political interest attached to these beautiful countries, they open a wide field of observation to the traveller, and an interesting subject for investigation alike to the politician, the philosopher, and the man of the world, who may feel disposed to investigate the causes which retard or accelerate the progress of nations. Here he will find lands the most fertile, and a climate the most salubrious of any in our hemisphere; with the additional advantage of being everywhere intersected by noble rivers, alike adapted to inland navigation and all the purposes of irrigation, together with seas abounding with the finest harbours, inviting, as it were, the commerce of the world.

Yet, with all these gifts of nature, he will have to wander for the most part through a wilderness, without either road, bridge, hostelry, or any other indication of civilized life ; and the few inhabitants he meets with, sunk in the lowest state of semi-barbarism, the conse quence of being subjected for centuries to the rule of princes who reigned through the instrumentality of the sword, and who appear to have been actuated by no other principle of government than that of isolating their miserable subjects from all intercourse with the energy, enterprise, and industry of the civilized West. Hungary, the first country to which we purpose alluding, lying between the semi-barbarous East and the enlightened West, is, without exception, one of the most interesting in Europe, not more for the heroic bravery her gallant sons

INTRODUCTION.

. displayed on the battle-field, in defence of their just rights and liberties, than for the rapid progress they made since the peace of 1815, in industry and all the arts and sciences of life, — a striking illustration of what a people are capable of achieving when their civil and political institutions are founded on the principle of self-government, and the law of the land secures to every individual, without distinction of race or creed, the same privileges, rights, and liberties. PRESHUKG.

Chapter I

The past and present state of Hungary — Incident at an hotel — Count Sze'cheyi — Am reforms — Triumph of Constitutional rights in Hungary — Revival of the Magyar language — Count Szechenyi as a legislator — Kossuth and his party — his great influence — Intrigues of Austria and Russia — Causes that led io the war in Hungary — Melancholy aspect of Hungary in 1850 — Character of Kossuth — Difficulties lie had to contend with — Treachery of General Gorgey — Cruelty of the Austrian Government — Execution of Count Louis Bathyani — Suicidal policy of Austria — Russian influence in Austria — Irresponsible power, and its consequences. Evert traveller, on entering the land of the Magyar, from Germany, must be struck with the marked difference in the characteristics of the people. Instead of the quiet, patient, methodical German, he sees a bold, daring, dashing fellow, who seems born to be independent.

The one gives you the idea of a peaceable, hard-working citizen, that you might lead with a silken thread ; the other, that of a fierce warrior, who would not allow himself to be robbed of his liberty, without unsheathing his sword in its defence. It is now nearly twenty years since we first visited Hun gary. Its inhabitants were then slowly recovering from the lossesthey had sustained during the disastrous wars of Austria against Napoleon, and a long-continued contest — the contest of centuries, when they stood alone as the barrier against the Turks, who, like the Russians in the present day, menaced the whole of Europe with subjugation. A tour in Hungary was, at this time, considered by the quiet Germans as a very dangerous enterprise. Indeed it was with no little difficulty that a couple of fellow-students and myself succeeded in prevailing with our doniine to accompany us in a visit to that country; and then, to provide against every contingency, it was considered necessary to be armed to the teeth.

During the first few days of our journey we met with no adventure worth recording, till we entered that vast table land which separates Pest from the Carpathian Mountains. Here we took up our quarters at a little road-side inn ; when, lo ! at the moment we were about to sit down to a capital dinner, two Hungarian noblemen and their attendants, all well mounted, and dressed in the picturesque costumes of the Magyars, entered the court-yard ; when, with all the insolence of authority, their saucy domestics peremptorily commanded the landlady to send in our savoury repast to their masters, who had retired to a private room. What was to be done ? A Hungarian magnat was accustomed to be implicitly obeyed, and our good-natured Germans, no doubt pitying the dilemma of the hostess, felt inclined to consent.

Ourselves, however, and an English fellow-student who accompanied us, fully imbued with that stubborn spirit of independence which John Bull so often exhibits to the wondering inhabitants of the Continent, entertained a very different opinion; and as the request had been so discourteously urged, we positively forbade the abstraction of a single dish from our repast. The war of words grew louder and louder, threatening each moment to end in a battle as sanguinary as any fought in the olden time by the Turks for the possession of one of those capacious copper caldrons which it is said would contain sufficient food to satisfy a regiment of soldiers. At length the dispute attracted the attention of the magnats, who on receiving an explanation laughed heartily at the contretemps, withdrew the claim, and agreed to accept as a favour an invitation to share our dinner.

How gaily they quaffed the wine ; how heartily they laughed at the pugnacious resistance of John Bull when his dinner was threatened ; and how little, how very little, did those two noblemen, then in the full spring of health and manly vigour, dream of the melancholy fate which at a later period awaited them ! Count Stephen Szechenyi, after devoting the best years of his life, and the best energies of his mind, to the service of his beloved country, unable to witness the sad reverses she sustained, is now a confirmed maniac. The other, Count Louis Bathyani, after distinguish ing himself as a patriot and a hero in defence of her liberties, died the death of a felon, by the hand of an Austrian execu tioner. But the day will come when his countrymen will avenge on Austria the judicial murder of one of their bravest patriots.

Trifling as this incident may appear to the untravelled reader, it tells most eloquently of the state of feudal vassalage in which the inhabitants of Hungary were then held by their imperious lords, and contrasts strongly with the improved condition in which we found her social institutions when we again visited this country, on our way to the East, in 1847; and we much doubt if any people, even our own indefatigable Anglo-Saxons, could have made in so short time a greater progress in civilization and all that conduces to the happiness and prosperity of a nation, than this people, who gloried in being called the English of Eastern Europe. Feudal vassalage was for ever abolished; all classes, and of whatever race — whether Magyar, Croat, Serb, or Wallack — were elevated to the dignity of freemen; the rights and privileges of the small landed proprietors specifically defined; and various reforms introduced indispensable to the well being of the people.

In addition to this, all religions were tolerated ; neither did the profession of any creed whatever incapacitate a man from holding the highest offices of the state. To a traveller like ourselves, who remembered a country destitute of roads, rivers without bridges, peasants half naked, towns and cities unpaved and unlighted, huts built of wood or mud, barges laboriously drawn by degraded serfs, — the improved condition of everything that now met our view seemed like the realization of a fairy tale. Pest, Buda, Pres burg, and all the other great towns and cities, could boast of palaces and public buildings, which would be admired for the beauty of their architecture even in the meridian of London and Paris; stagnant moats, which shed around their pestilential exhalations, were filled up and converted into public promenades ; a magnificent suspension bridge, thrown across the Danube, connected Pest and Buda; while hospitals and benevolent institutions, richly endowed, had been esta blished to relieve the wants of the poorer part of the population.