The Narrative of a voyage to the Swan River; ... containing useful hints to those who contemplate an emigration to Western Australia; with a map and notes, etc

Appendix

ON THE PROPER CHOICE OF COUNTRY FOR THE DETERMINED EMIGRANT. COMPILED AND ARRANGED BY THE REV. J. GILES POWELL, B. A. VICAR OF BILLM0RT0N, WARWICKSHIRE. " The spread of cultivation is no wild or impracticable plan ; it is one fraught with all the blessings Providence has to bestow ; it is a pursuit in which Art and Nature go hand in hand to certain and unceasing triumphs; while the common mother, Earth, seems smiling upon the labours of her children, and the unclouded eye of Heaven looks down well pleased upon the exertions it has ordained and blessed." — Sadler's Ireland. />. 418. LONDON: PRINTED FOR F. C. WESTLEY, No. 1«5, STRAND 1831. PRINTED BY G. HAYDEN, Little College Street, Westminster. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE Sir ROBERT FEEL, Bart. SIR, I am fully sensible that this little work, which I have the honour of de dicating to you, presents nothing new to your notice, and that it would he unworthy of the patronage of your name tfits object were not to afford some useful information to those who intend to emigrate to Western Jlustralia.

The rapid progress which this Colotiy has made since its recent establish ment must be highly gratifying to you, under whose' administration it was founded. Sincerely wishing that you may live to see it become as flourishing as your hopes can anticipate, I have the honor to subscribe myself, with great respect, Sir, Your obliged, humble Servant, J. GILES POWELL.

Preface

. From the abundant and increasing population «of the United Kingdom, it is ex pedient, and, perhaps, necessary, that many should emigrate, and endeavour to obtain in aforeign land that eligible in vestment of their capital, and that pro mising scope for their industry, which circumstances prevent their finding at home. Colonies and countries in every quarter of the globe have successively, of late years, excited general interest ; and many of His Majesty's subjects have been in duced to seek their fortunes in that settlement which, at the moment, was most VI popular: and while the want of novelty and of success have ceased to draw the attention of the Public and the schemes of the adventurer to the hot plains of Africa, or the banks of the Oronooko — while the frozen Winter of the North chills the adventurer who wishes to emigrate to the Canadas — while the Tor-^ and the Whig abhor the idea of becoming the subjects of republican America, and there by increasing the strength of a foreign nation — while the religious parent trem bles to expose his children to the evil society and the vices of Sydney and Ho bart Town, the new Colony on the Swan River, has suddenly risen into notice ; and while it obtains the good wishes of every friend to his country, so, also, it has led hundreds to emigrate to it, and induced many more seriously to consider the eli gibility of removing themselves and their families to a Colony so exclusively English, holding forth many and great ad vantages and promising all reasonable success.

As the statements in the public prints have been very contradictory — some des cribing this Colony as a Paradise, and the richest country in the world, others studiously exaggerating its disadvantages, and representing it as a scene of calamity and disappointment, it may neither be useless nor uninteresting to give a plain, unbiassed account of the Colony in its present infant state, from one who, being a resident in it, is certainly capable of describing it with accuracy, and whose letters to his Father and Brother, whom he entreats to follow him, cannot be suspected of being written with any view to exaggerate, conceal, or deceive. If this little work should fall into the hands of him who reads only for amusement, to kill that time which is killing him, the Editor cannot expect to offer any thing which may either excite his feelings or attract his attention : the novel reader will be disgusted with details of real life on board ship, or in the desert; and the plans and expressions of a practical agriculturist will be very insipid to him, whose notions of rural pursuits are derived from romantic accounts of romantic shepherdesses, gracefully reclining over limpid streams.

But the patriot will not disdain to read a plain description of a newly -formed settlement, which will rapidly increase in opulence and in strength; he will rejoice at the establishment of a Colony which will extend the commerce of his country, and, while it adds to its trade, will consequently increase its re sources. If the scholar and the man of science should take up this book as a retaxation from study or research, let them not be disgusted with the plain, but artless statements of an unpretending young man, who has just quitted the comparative retirement of a country village, and bursts at once upon scenes to which he had hitherto been a stranger. These statements are published to afford information to the emigrant, and not gratification to the learned. Classic elegance of expression is not yet to be expected from the uncultivated plains of Western Australia.

Criticism will be disarmed at the sight of letters written, after a hard day's toil, by the flickering of a settler's lamp: and, for himself, the Editor ventures to hope that, as he is totally unaccustomed to write for the press, the style of this, his first literary offering to public notice, will not be examined with minuteness, nor con demned with severity. As to the matter of this work, although he does not at- X tempt to defy censure, he yet trusts he has written nothing to deserve it. It is no easy task to remove prejudice, or to change general opinion, and, at present, the Colony is by many represented, and be lieved to be a scene of disappointment, and the grave of hope. A short explanation of the causes of various unfavourable state ments, may induce less regard to be paid to those who disparage the Settlement from envy, selfishness, or to conceal their own folly and unavoidable loss.

If the Colony succeed, the trade and number of emigrants to the Convict Set tlements will be reduced ; and hence the most calamitous accounts of the distress and barrenness of Western Australia have been circulated from Sydney and Hobart Town, with studied eulogiums upon the prosperity and fertility of these places. At its first establishment, several ad venturers arrived from Hobart Town, in tending to monopolize the most valuable land upon speculation: but the wise and just regulations of the Governor frus trated their plans, and they returned to Van Dieman's Land, railing against the place they had quitted, with all the bit terness of envy and disappointment. A great number of the emigrants from this country were totally incompetent to undertake the management of land ; most of them expected to meet with luxuries in a wilderness, and fertile land on the very edge of the sea.

But they soon found that the means of subsistence could not be obtained without labour ; and that rich land, as in other countries, is less abundant than poor. Then many " gave themselves up to despair," and left the Settlement without ascertaining its re sources, or attempting to overcome those difficulties which are the invariable at tendants upon the establishment of a new Colony. Several persons went out with a view of forming commercial establishments which, in process of time may be most lucrative, but at first seemed impracticable and ridiculous. They soon proceeded in search of situations more favorable to their views, and decried the country without inquiring into its natural advantages, the quality of the land in the interior, or the prospect of success which it presented to the farmer.

Such are the causes of the reports which have arisen, to the great disadvan tage of the new Colony; but time will, ere long, remove prejudice by the force of truth — and Western Australia will sue ceed and flourish, in spite of false state ments and studied misrepresentation. SUBSCRIBERS. Auger, Mr., Bourton. Ban bury, Mr., Long Itchington. Bamfield, Mr., Wolstone. Boultbee, Rev. T., Prior's Salford. Bracebridge, C. H. Esq., Atherstone Hall. Brammall, Rev. D., Elham. Bunce, Rev. J. B., Harbledown. Burbury, Mr., Wotton Grange. Butlin, William, Esq., Rugby. Carter, Mr. William, Coventry. Chinn, Rev. H. B., Long Lauford. Cooper, Mr. Edward, Coventry. Copson, Mr. Edward, Brandon. Cox, Mr., Sowe. Curling, Mrs., Canterbury. Downes, Rev. J. W., Stanford. Duningham, Rev. John, Hackney Grammar School, 3 copies Eden, Hon. and Rev. William, BeakesbOurne, 3 copies.

Edmunds, Rev. Robert, Church Lauford. Elkington, Mrs., Coventry. Foster, Mr. Robert, Fillongley. Foster, Mr. Robert, North Street, Westminster. Grey de Rnthyn, Baroness, 10 copies. Garner, Mr. Thomas, Cawston. Garner, Mr. Joseph, Dunchurch. Gaven, , Esq., Park Square, Regent's Park. Gillbee, Rev. Charles, Barby. Gillbee, Mr. Walter, Barby. Hall, Mr., Dunchurch. Harding, Rev. Wm., Fellow of Wadham College, Oxford SUB9CRIBEUS. Harper, H. R., Esq., Burton, Latimer Hall. Harper, Rev. Latimer, Chilvers Coton. Hodson, Rev. J. H., Yelvertoff. Hook, Rev. W. F., St. Trinity, Coventry. Howkins, Mrs., Upper Baker Street. Humfrey, Rev. L. C ., Laughton Humfrey, Rev. C, Theciingworth. Jenkins, Rev. John, Branston. Kellam, Mr., Ryton-on-Dunsmore. Kellam, Mr. W., ditto. Lake, Captain, Rugby. Linwood, Miss, Hinkley. .

Lockinge, Rev. H., Northampton. Lucas, Mr., Lutterworth. Marriott, Miss, Newton. Marriott, Rev. Robert, Cottesbatch, 2 copies. Marshal], Mrs., Allesley. Moor, Rev. J. H. C, Second Master of Rugby School. Powell, Captain, Upper Baker Street, London. Powell, William, Esq., Kildorrery. Powell, Mrs., Canterbury. Rugby Clerical Society. Rudge, Mr., Hillmorton. Sale, Mr. William, Clifton. Slye, J. W., Esq., West Haddon. Spence, Rev. H. M., West Haddon, 2 copies. Spratt, Mrs., Canterbury. Thickins, Rev. John, Fillongley. Tindal, Rev. James, Mouseley. Turner, Mr., Coventry. Watson, Richard, Esq., Lutterworth. Watson, Thomas, Esq., Walcote. Williams, Rev. Charles, Barby.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. The following Narrative and Account are compiled from several letters addressed by a young man of respectability (now resident at the Swan River) to his relations in England. The reader may rest as sured, that no statement is presented herein which is not in strict accordance with the truth. The Appendix contains such further information as, the Editor presumes, will be interesting and ser viceable to the determined emigrant, to whom he begs leave to offer his sincere advice and candid opinions, with his best wishes. NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE SWAN RIVER, <Sfc. fye. fye.

Chapter I

Description of the Voyage from Portsmouth — Bay of Biscay — Sea Sickness, cure of — Description of the Island of Mayo — Description of the Island of St. Paul — The Ship's Arrival in Gages Roads, Cockburn Sound. It is not requisite to give any account of our ad venturer previous to his departure from England, or to publish the letters in which he bid his relations farewel — suffice it to say he was brought up as a practical farmer, and that he felt that deep sorrow at a long, and perhaps eternal separation from his country and friends, which became one who was sincerely attached to both from principle i: ■2 and affection. Having taken his passage in a vessel bound for the Swan River and New South Wales, he hurried his goods on board under the assurance that the ship would leave the port of London on an appointed day, but he had the mortification of seeing her remain in dock for several weeks, while his little capital was daily decreasing from the expence of his remaining in town.

At length, however, the vessel did sail, and shortly afterwards he wrote a hasty letter from Portsmouth, to inform his father of his pros perous voyage hitherto, and that the ship had merely touched there in its way. Nothing further was heard from him for ten months, and then his anxious friends had the pleasure of receiving the packet of letters from which this Narrative is compiled. They were dated at Freemantle in November, 1829, and as there is a great deal for an emigrant to prepare himself for, besides what he may encounter at the place of his destination, it may neither be useless nor uninteresting to commence the Nar rative from the time the ship, in which our adventurer embarked, broke ground from Ports mouth. As the brig Dragon is sailing from hence to Ceylon, and certain there to take in a cargo direct for England, I grasp at the opportunity to inform you of my safe landing in this Colony, in the best health and spirits.

In this letter I intend giving you a slight description of a sea voyage of 15,000 miles, performed in four months and four days from Portsmouth, for a sailor reckons his voyage only from the last port in the country from whence he breaks ground. In the letter I wrote from thence, I believe I stated that the ship dropped anchor the preceding evening, and that several of the passengers had accompanied me on shore for the purpose of purchasing some ar ticles which we found we stood in need of, and for the melancholy pleasure of treading upon our native land for the last time. I had not been on shore four hours when one of the sailors came into the shop where I was and told me that the last boat would be off for the ship in a quarter of an hour, and that she would weigh anchor immeb2 diately. — We stood out to sea at one o'clock, p. m. and proceeded with a fair wind which carried us rapidly from the shores of happy England.

At the end of three days, however, it blew a slight gale rather contrary to us for about a week, but still we made a little way. Afterwards the wind became favourable, and we soon got into the Bay of Biscay. This we were four days in crossing, during which I was very unwell. Hitherto we did not experience any thing of a sea, and the wind was moderate — but now the scene was changed. Sometimes we appeared to be mounted upon the top us a wave, and the next moment we were sinking gradually until we were surrounded by great waves breaking upon us. Then the vessel would seem to pause, owing to her being buried so low in the sea that you would fancy the wind could not reach her lower sails, but in an instant the waves would rise under her and then she would mount majestically, with the wind howling through the rigging — and then I felt I was at sea.

It is a most grand, awful, and beau tiful sight. We did not see a vessel till we arrived in the Bay. She was a large heavy ship, and seemed to labour very much, and no doubt our's did the same. When the sea became so rough, most of the passengers retired below decks, but I was determined to stay it out as long as possible, in order to prevent sea-sickness, and did for a long time, by assisting the sailors at the lower-ropes, holding the head of one of the 1^|*W£ upon deck, &c. and I found that the best method to prevent it, and by persevering and keeping up one's spirits, I am persuaded that, if it cannot be overcome, it may be greatly mitigated. There was a terrible commotion below decks — some poor little chil dren were dreadfully sick, and half dead with fright, while their mothers were too ill to attend to them.

Some of the grown-up passengers were absolutely crying with fear and agitation ; others, from the rolling of the vessel, were thrown into all positions about the decks : the captain was the only person who appeared to enjoy it — but to some of us it was no joke. At last the sight of some of my fellow passengers, who came upon deck, made me for a moment as sick as the rest. As soon as possible I went below, drank a stiff glass of brandy and water, vyith a little nutmeg and ginger, and felt quite revived; and thus, by perseverance and resolution, I suffered much less from sea-sickness than any other passenger throughout the voyage, though the little I felt convinces me that, to those who suffer from it in any great degree, it must be terrible indeed. Various are the methods recommended to avert or assuage it.

Many have found great benefit by keeping themselves as near the centre of the ves sel as possible, very frequently sipping a little neat brandy, and if possible taking a small quan tity of bread or buiscuit from time to time, as the retching is felt more severely when the stomach is quite empty. When we crossed the Bay the wind subsided into a favourable gale, at which we were very thankful, for now the water was smooth in com parison with the tremendous sea we had lately experienced. And now the passengers became more intimate with each other, and we mutually communicated our plans and intentions, and the means we possessed of carrying them into effect. And it was with no small surprise that I discovered not one passenger in ten knew any thing about farming, although they all professed their object to be the acquisition and occupation of land.

Several of them resided in London and large towns all their lives, and scarcely knew wheat from barley. How these persons who have been brought up in trade are to succeed in the management of land I cannot conceive. You would be amused by the various instruments and articles they purchased at a very great expense, several of which, I am persuaded, will be totally useless to them. In one of the vessels which was to leave London after us, there was a poor fellow with a wife and several children, who left his shop, and expended part of his money very fool ishly in the purchase of pointers, greyhounds, pheasants, and rabbits. His wife took out a favourite lap-dog — her husband had to pay five guineas for its passage. They will want the money they thus throw away before this day twelve months, or I am much mistaken.

One adventurer has taken out a man, who has been twenty years in the marines, as his bailiff and factotum. Knowing me to be a farmer, several of the passengers are applying for my opinion and advice upon certain agricultural operations ; and while I can scarcely keep my countenance at some of the questions they ask, I endeavour to give them all the information in my power, wishing to act by all as I should wish to be done by. It is to be feared that several of them will not succeed in the Colony, so you must prepare to receive dismal accounts from those who find they must work for their bread, and who, doubtless, will be imposed upon by " the knowing ones," who are already arrived. A fatal accident occurred, which damped the spirits of us all. One of the steerage passengers went up the rigging half-drunk, and in turning round, lost his hold, and fell over-board — we had no possibility of saving him — it was a caution to the remainder of us I do assure you, and hope it had its proper effect upon those who were too careless about their souls.

This unhappy event is a good lesson to those passengers who are unaccustomed to the management of a ship not to go aloft or get into the rigging, for, as in the present instance, the consequences may be fatal. Passengers have their berths assigned them, and they have the privilege of walking the deck, and with these they ought to be satisfied, and not meddle with what they have no concern. The captain has a great charge. And sailors are bound to obey the word of command immediately, and indeed the safety of the vessel may at times depend upon the instantaneous performance of a manœuvre. Why, then, in any case should a passenger place himself where he has no right? and still less upon the rigging, where his being in the way may be very dangerous to the ship : and if he should be so silly as to get into the shrouds, the rapidity with which a sailor goes aloft, may shake him out of them, and his life may be the forfeit of his folly.

I mention all this as a caution to my brother, (who I hope will follow me) ; for it is a common error with many to suppose, that because they have paid their passage-money they possess a right to run all over the ship as they please, but this is by no means the case. No passenger should ever go aloft, or interfere in the least in the working of the ship, unless his assistance be requested. Some captains have much good nature, and do not take notice of these things, but the best captain is he who will, by keeping every one in his proper place, restrain him from going where he ought not, and may, perhaps, do more harm than good. The wind now continued favourable for some time, when we came in sight of the Island of Madeira, (a) and were very much disappointed in not having a clear view of it, owing to our not " nearing" it until the evening.

Strong winds now prevailed, but fair. The ship went steadily nine miles an hour, which was considered very good sailing, for she was loaded dreadfully heavy, and therefore of course was deep in the water. We continued steadily on our course until we reached the Tropic of Cancer, where we were becalmed six days : the wind at last sprung up, and carried us favourably to Mayo, (b ) one of the Cape de Verd Islands, where we put in, to replenish our water casks. The fresh water in the Island was tolera bly good, but we thought proper to use it all before the Thames water we had left on board, which continued good to the last. A small American brig was laying here, waiting for a cargo of salt, with which this island abounds, and is shipped from hence to all parts of the world : there is no other article of commerce or produce, for the in habitants procure all the supplies they want from St. Jago, the chief of the Cape de Verdes.

It is inhabited principally by the Portuguese, and the natives are numerous, but very indolent and greatly addicted to pilfering ; the former are clean in their habits, subtle, jealous, and passionate. The natives are tall and stout made, with swarthy com plexions, round heads, blunt noses ; the males go almost entirely naked, but the women wear only one garment made of a very thin muslin, and some wear a turban round their heads made of the same light material. They apparently perform all the most laborious work, not only about their dwel lings, but even at the salt-ponds, while their lazy husbands look on and nurse the children. We remained only three days at this place, and then proceeded with a fair wind until we reached the Line, where we were becalmed for six days. On crossing the Line the sailors made each cuddy passenger pay ten shillings, and each steerager a bottle of rum.

We found it dreadfully hot between the Tropics, and here, for the first time, saw a great quantity of flying fish,(c) to me quite a novelty. Some of the strong ones will fly nearly 100 yards at a flight, and that (it is said) when they are pursued by large fish of prey. We proceeded for a fortnight, and only saw one shark and some whales, together with some other large fish ; no one on board knew what they were. Then there was a dead calm for ten days, and an uproar between some of the steerage passengers and sailors. Two of the former were put in irons for insolence to the captain and ill-behaviour to the sailors : they were thus confined for forty-eight hours. If my brother follows me, he cannot be too strongly reminded that it is very improper for any passenger to interfere with the sailors; let him be civil to them at all times when obliged to speak to them, but to avoid associating or entering into friendly conversation with them, especially when they are upon duty.

In every ship there are some persons of evil principles, some who are ill-natured and eager to take offence, and therefore I recommend him not to be irritable or ready to quarrel about trifles ; but, at the same time, while he is courteous to all, to avoid an intimacy or too much familiarity with any one, much less with the sailors. The wind afterwards got up, blew hard, and quite a-head, and so continued for several days, which drove us within two days sail of Rio Janeiro.(d) The cabin passengers tried their ut most to prevail upon the captain to put in at that place, but all to no purpose. (c) The wind now became favourable, and so con tinued until we came within the latitude of the Cape of Good Hope. Here we saw a brig — spoke to her — found she was bound to Ceylon from North America. We met with good wea ther in rounding the Cape, but afterwards it began to rain, and blew tremendously for a fortnight; and part of this time we were all battened below decks : this was a misery felt severely by me : we were indeed permitted to have lights, but were obliged to buy them.

The wind shifted and be came less boisterous, and we saw several whales and other large fish. The captain harpooned a dolphin, which, though by no means a large one, astonished us by the strength it had in its tail when hauled upon deck. We all partook of it, and I cannot help remarking that it was the first and last treat the steerage passengers received from the captain during the voyage. We made St. Paul's in due course : it is a little rockv barren •*> island, about midway from the Cape of Good Hope and Swan River ; it is said to be unin habited — its shores abound with several sorts of fish. At this time several of the passengers, in cluding myself, were much afflicted with the scurvy, which I attribute, in a great degree, to the stoppage of our allowance of vinegar, tea, currants, &c. We proceeded rapidly for a week, and were again becalmed for three days.

Here we saw a great many whales. The wind at last sprung up, and now the captain expressed his persuasion that we were drawing near to Rot tenest Island, and this intelligence inspired every one with joy and hope. The following day a sailor cried out the long wished-for and glad tidings of " Land a-head." All ran upon deck, anxious to behold " terra firm a" once more. But it could not be seen from the deck for some time in consequence of the land being low. At last it became visible to all. We were overjoyed at the sight, made it, and found it to be " Rottencst," which is a rocky barren island, difficult of access on account of a heavy surf. It looks, however, very well at first as an island, having plenty of trees upon it ; but on coming close in, we saw nothing but coarse timber of inferior quality.

It abounds with kangaroos, kangaroo rats, and birds of all descriptions. We dropped anchor here (for the night), the second time only since we left Portsmouth ; and weighed early the next morning with the coast of Western Australia in view, and standing for Gage's Roads, (which is the harbour at the entrance of the Swan River,) with colours flying, and firing a gun for a pilot every ten minutes. Here with a glass we perceived three sail at anchor. A pilot soon came on board, and after the first salutation and enquiries, he told us of the wreck of the Marquis of Anglesea in a storm on this coast, bound from London with settlers to this Colony, (f) Most providentially all lives were saved, as was the principal part of the cargo. We at length perceived her as we went along lay ing under some high cliffs, about 300 yards from the entrance of the Swan River.

We were in deed most thankful that we had escaped this storm, otherwise there is every reason to expect we could not have weathered it. Before the Mar quis of Anglesea was wrecked, the gale had been so violent, that the Calista, which came out at the same time with the Parmelia, in which the governor was passenger, actually dragged three anchors after her ; and if the storm had not most providentially abated, she must inevitably have been wrecked. The Parmelia, in which the go vernor was, grounded twice ; and if it had not been for the most admirable seamanship in navi gating her, she must have gone to the bottom. There were many thousand bricks in the Marquis of Anglesea, which could not be got out. This was a great loss to the early settlers, if it were only on account of having nothing at hand where with to build fire-places.

But the Colony has suffered greatly in the estimation of the public, who, in consequence of this storm and wreck, are led to consider the harbour totally unsafe for any vessel to ride in. I fervently hope, however, that they will soon be convinced of their error, and that the industry of the inhabitants will bring the Colony into good repute. But to re turn — we dropped anchor, for the last time, with in two miles and a half of the mouth of Swan River, in company with three other vessels ; two of them had put in here for water. The other a brig from Hobart Town, with settlers. Here, I am sorry to say, the water is very indifferent, and thus continues until you reach Perth, where it is good. If wells, however, were sunk further in the interior, and at a greater depth, the water would, probably, be found of a much better quality ; but at present, and for some time, there will neither be leisure nor hands for making experiments.