A System of Modern Geography, or the natural and political history of the present state of the world, etc

Front matter

fnkti'tirft f>efl lfin> htf Xtkrrwnnd, tf+ettf * Jvnr.r. XTto. futtrut^lrr *« »*. /."»*/'■" A SYSTEM OF MODERN GEOGRAPHY; OR, THE NATURAL AND POLITICAL HISTORY OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE WORLD. WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. BY JOHN SMITH, LL. D. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW ; By James Gillet, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. 1811. CONTENTS. IRELAND. CHAPTER -I. Page Name, and origin of (he population. Position. Extent. Climate, seasons., meteorology. Face of the country, and nature of the soil. Mountains. Mineralogy. Mineral waters. Bogs. Forests. Rivers and lakes. Bays and harbours. Canals. Botany. Zoology. Natural curiosities - - — 1

Chapter II

Political division. Population, manners, and characteristics. Language. Religion, ecclesiastical division, and clergy. Education. Literature. Arts and sciences. University. Government. Jurisprudence. Public debt. Revenue. Military and naval establishment. Order of knighthood. Political importance - IS

Chapter III

Of the industry of the country. Grazing and agriculture. Produce of kelp and of minerals exported. Manufactures. Trade and commerce. Value of exports aud imports. Shipping employed in commerce. Table of money, weights, and measures - - 27

Chapter IV

Description ofthe provinces, counties, and cities towns of Ireland. The province of Munster, containing the counties of Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Clare, Tipperary, and Waterford. The province of Leinster, containing the counties of Wexford, Kilkenny, Carlow, Wicklow, Kildarc, Queen's County, King's County, Westmeath, Meath, Dublin, Loulh, and Longford 3S

Chapter V

Continuation ofthe description ofthe provinces, counties, cities, boroughs, and towns of Ireland. The province of Connaught, containing the counties of Galway, Mayo, Sligo, Roscommon, and Lcitrim. The province of Ulster, comprizing the counties of Cavan, Monaghaii, Fermanagh, Armagh, Down, Tyrone, Antrim, Londonderry, and Donegal - Q<) SPAIN.

Chapter I

Name and origin of the population. Position, extent, boundaries. Climate, seasons, meteorology. Face of the country and nature of the soil. Mountains. Sea-coast, sea-ports. Rivers, lakes. Forests. Mineralogy. Botany. Zoology. Natural Curiosities 97

Chapter II

Political division. Population. Characteristics, manners, dress, &c. of the inhabitants. Languages : the Castilian, the Cantabrian, or JJiscayan, the Catalan. Religion. Ecclesiastical division, the clergy, (he inquisition. Universities, colleges. Education, state of science and the arts. Government and administration. Jurisprudence. Public, debt. Revenue military and naval establishment. Orders of knighthood. Political importance. Foreign possessions - - - --- CONTENTS.

Chapter III

Page Industry of Spain. Agriculture. Grain and corn, rice, hemp and flax, vines, olives, mulberry, almond, palm, carob and fig, nut and fruit trees, sugar cane, madder, saffron, kermes, soda, honey and wax, esparto, cork. Grazing. The Mesta. Manufactures. Commerce. Imports and exports. The Philippine company. Banks. Currency. Roads and canals. Table of weights and measures ..... 137

Chapter IV

Description ofthe provinces of Spain, and their most eminent cities and towns. The division of Castile, comprizing Gallicia, the Asturias, Biscay, Navarre, Leon, Old Castile, Estremadura, New Castile, LaManchn, Seville or Andalusia, Cordova, Jaen and the Sierra Morena, Grenada and Antiquera, and Murcia. The division as Arragon, comprizing Arragon, Catalonia, Valencia, and Majorca. Islands. Establishments in Africa. Sketch of history 161 PORTUGAL.

Chapter I

Name. Origin of the population. Position, boundaries, extent. Climate, seasons, meteorology. Face of the country and nature ofthe soil. Mountains. Sea-coast, bays, sea-ports. Rivers, lakes. Botany, zoology, mineralogy - - - - 275

Chapter II

Political division. Characteristics, manners, customs, amusements. Language. Religion. Ecclesiastical division. Inquisition. Education, universities, academies, &c. Literature and science. Government, administration. Jurisprudence. Sources and amount of revenue. Army. Navy. Nobility, orders of knighthood. Agriculture. Manufactures, commerce. Roads and canals. Foreign possessions. Political importance and foreign relations. Table of coins, exchanges, weights, and measures - 279

Chapter III

Description of the different provinces of Portugal, their cities, and principal towns. 1. Entre Minho e Douro. 2. Tras os Montes. 3. Beira. i. Estremadura. 5. Alentejo. 0. Algarve. ' Sketch of history ...... 290 ISLAND AND KINGDOM OF SARDINIA.

Chapter I

Position, figure, extent, area. Face ofthe country and nature ofthe soil. Climate. Mountains. Rivers, lakes. Sea-coast, bays, and ports. Productions. Zoology. Mineralogy. Mineral waters - ..... 006

Chapter II

Population, origin, name, number, characteristics. Language. Industry, agriculture, mines, fishery, coral fishery, &c. Commerce, exports, and imports. Political aud ecclesiastical division. Government. Revenue. Importance. Chief places. Roads and communication. Neighbouring islands. Money, weights aud measures. History 309 ISLAND AND KINGDOM OF SICILY.

CHAPTER I.

Position, extent, area. Climate. Face of the country and nature of Ihe soil. Mountains. Volcanoes. Sea-coast and ports. Rivers. Botany, zoology, mineralogy. Natural curi- Oiities - - - - - ... 3i3 CONTENTS. V Page 317 331 337 361 367 iOi 434

CHAPTER II.

Population. Origin, name, number, characteristics, language. Industry. Agriculture, fishery. Commerce. Exports and imports. Political and ecclesiastical government. Revenue. Military and naval establishments. Orders of knighthood. Importance. Division. Chief places. Hands. Roads and communication. Weights and measures. History ... . ISLAND OF MALTA, AND ITS DEPENDENCIES. Position, figure, extent, Face of the country, soil, climate, and productions. Rivers. Aqueduct. Population, number, origin, characteristics, disposition, dress, maladies. Revenue, commerce, industry. Monies, weights, and measures. Chief places. Sketch of history ITALY.

CHAPTER I.

Limits, shape, extent. Mountains : alps ; Apennines ; earthquakes of Calabria in 1783. Sub- Apennine of Tuscany, its composition, mineralogy, volcanoes, and natural curiosities. Roman siib-apenniue : its constitution, mineralogy, and vestiges ot lire. Vesuvian sub-apenjiine, the Phlesjrran Fiekis, volcanoes, mineralogy-, Solfaterre. Hivers. Lakes. Mineral waters. General view of the suit ice, soil, and climate. Natural curiosities. Productions, botanical aud zoological. Sea-coast, bays, &c. Division of the peninsula al the period of the treaty of Amiens. Division subsequent to the peace of Vienna, 14th October, 1809, between Austria and France, and the despoliation ofthe Pope of his dominions

CHAPTER II. NAPLES.

Confines, position, area. Table of the provinces, population, archbishoprics, bishoprics, and chief cities. Population. Characteristics. Government. Legislation and jurisprudence. Military and naval force. Revenue. Distribution of property. Religion, clergy. Nobility. Literature, arts, and sciences. Language. Education, universities. Natural curiosities and antiquities. Industry and commerce. Exchanges, banks, fairs. Monies of account and coins. Weights and measures ...

Chapter III

Topographical description ofthe kingdom of Naples. 1. Calabria Oltra. 2. Calabria Citra. 3. La Basilicata. Puglia, or the three succeeding provinces, 4. Terra di Otranto, 5. Terra di Bari, 6. La Capitanata. 7. II Prencipato di Salerno. 8. II Prencipato Oltra. 9. La Terra di Lavora. 10. 11 Contado di Molissi. 11. Abruzzo Citra. 12. Abruzzo Oltra. Islands. Sketch of history - - - - .

Chapter IV Rome

Limits and extent of the former territories ofthe church. Soil and productions. Rivers, mountains, lakes. Natural curiosities and antiquities. Population, families, characteristics. Division into provinces. Government. Jurisprudence. Revenue. Military and naval iorce. Commerce. Arts, sciences, literature. Topography. Coins, weights, treasures. Sketch of history -

Chapter V. Tuscany

Limits, extent, area, and population. Climate, soil, productions. Mountains, rivers, lakis. Government, aud jurisprudence, before the recent annexation of Tuscany to France. Taxes and revenue. Military and naval strength . Manufacture:, and commerce. Division, Topographical description. Coins, weights, and measures. Sketch of history. Principalities and islands disjunct from the late kingdom of Etruria. Stato degli Presidii. Princ pality of Piombino. islands, Elba, Capraja, Pianosa, Gorgona. Duchy of Massa and Carrara. Duchy of Parma, Placentia, and Guastalla .... CONTENTS.' VI Page 453- 485 503 521 53Q 562 574 58 o

Chapter VI. Kingdom Of Italy

Limits, extent, area. Climate, soil, productions. Mountains, lakes, rivers. Sketch of history. Division according to the law of 23d Floreal, an. 9. (14th April, 1807), with the additions by the treaties of Presburg and Vienna. Population. Government. Constitution. Justiciary regulations, law?. Military and naval force. Commerce. Agriculture. Political importance. Topography. Coins, weights, and measures - FRANCE.

Chapter I

Name and origin of population. Boundaries, extent, area. Climate, table of temperature. Surface and soil. Mountains. Forests. Rivers and lakes. Bays and harbours. Botany. Zoology. Mineralogy. Natural curiosities -

Chapter II

Division of France ; table ofthe department, capitals of prefecture and sub-prefecture, area of ihe departments, their population, contribution in francs in 1802, and expenses of local administration, &c. General population. Manners, characteristics. Language. Religion, the clergy, ecclesiastical division. Education, primary and secondary schools, Lycea, Prytanreum, special schools. Schools for public service. The Institute. Other literary and learned societies, literature. Sciences and the arts. Museums, observatory, libraries, cabinets, &c. - - ■* - - *

Chapter III

Constitution. Government. Conservative senate. Legislative body. Council of state. Course of a law. Ministers. Civil administration. Judiciary administration, civil and criminal; justices of the peace ; tribunals of commerce ; council of prizes ; primary tribunals ; tribunals of appeal ; special tribunals ; tribunal of cassation, or annulment. Juries. Corps of national gens d'armerie. Jurisprudence - *

Chapter IV

Industry of France. Agriculture. Manufactures. Commerce, exports, and imports. External navigation. Roads, internal navigation, and canals. Bank of France. African company. India company. Currency. Table of coins, exchanges, weights, and measures. New scheme of the months, and division of time -

Chapter V

Public debt. Revenue and expenses. Army. Navy. Legion of honour. Political importance and relations. Former and remaining colonies and islands. Sketch of history SWITZERLAND.

Chapter I

Name, situation, boundaries, extent. Divisions. Face of the country. Climate. Productions. Population and manufactures, Rivers, lakes, and mountains. Glaciers. Avalanches .... ......

Chapter II

Constitution and government. Religion, language, and literature. Cities and towns. Manners and customs. Goitres and idiots. Antiquities. Military. Revenue. Mineralogy. Mineral waters. Natural curiosities .-»*.*" CONTENTS. VII Page 596 603 610 62 1 634 649 656 663 GENEVA. Situation. Public buildings and manufactures. Revenue, Rivers. Manners and customs. Surrounding country. History .--.._ GERMANY

CHAPTER I.

Name. Situation and boundaries. Divisions into circles ; Upper Saxony, Lower Saxony, Westphalia, Upper Rhine, Lower Rhine, Franconia, Austria, Bavaria, Swabia. Divisions into Austria and Germany, north and south ofthe Mayn. Character ofthe Germans

CHAPTER II. AUSTRIA.

Divisions. Situation and important changes. Name. Austria Proper. Stiria. Carinthia. Carniola. Friuli. Tyrol. Religion. Population. Language and literature. Revenue and military force. Title. Manners and customs. Inland navigation. Manufactures and commerce. History, including principal articles of the treaties of Campo Formio, Luneville, Presburg, and the confederation of the Rhine - -

Chapter VII

Saxony. Hanover. Hesse Cassel. Mecklenburg. Brunswick. Hanseatic League. Ba varia. Wirtemberg. Anspach and Bareuth. Salzia. Smaller states. Chief towns CONTENTS.' VIII NETHERLANDS. Page Name. Extent. Position and boundaries. Division. Face oPfhe country. Climate, sensons, and agriculture. Rivers, canals. &c. Mineralogy and mineral waters. Botany. Zo plogy, Natural curiosities. Manners and customs. Language and literature. Religion, Commerce and revenue. Antiquities. History .... 681 HOLLAND. Name. Extent. Boundaries. Original population. Divisions. Climate and face ofthe country. Rivers and harbours. Population. Manners and customs. Language and literature. Religion. Constitution. Government and laws. Colonies, commerce, &c. Public companies. Revenue. Army and navy. Botany and zoology. Mineralogy.

Antiquities and curiosities. Chief towns. History - - • 689 PRUSSIA. Name. Extent. Population and division. Climate. Rivers, lakes, and mountains. Mi nera logy and mineral waters. Antiquities and curiosities. Constitution and government Religion. Language and literature. Commerce and manufactures. Zoology and botany, Manners and customs. Army and navy. Revenue. Arms, and orders of knighthood Chief cities. History ...... 712 TURKEY IN EUROPE. Extent, boundaries, &c. Original population. Divisions. Climate. Seas and straits. Lakes and rivers. Mountains. Mineralogy. Zoology and Botany. Government. Military and navy. Religion. Titles and arms. Population. Revenue and political relations. Language and literature. Manners and customs. Manufactures and commerce. Antiquities and curiosities. Chief cities.

History - - - 730 ASIA. TURKEY IN ASIA. Extent, boundaries, and divisions. Population. Climate and face of the country. Commerce and manufactures. Rivers and lakes. Mountains. Mineralogy. Language and literature. Constitution and government. Revenues. Army. Court. Provinces, cities, &c. Manners and customs. Antiquities and curiosities. Botany and zoology. History. Islands 760 i ARABIA. Extent. Boundaries and divisions. Name and ancient population. Face of the country. Mountains, deserts, and rivers. Climate and seasons. Agriculture and produce. Language and learning. Religion and government. Manners and customs. Commerce and manufactures. Botany and zoology. Mineralogy. Natural curiosities. Chief cities. History. Islands - - - . ' . 779 PERSIA. Name, extent, and boundaries. Divisions. Climate.

Face of the country. Constitution and government. •Population. Revenues. Military and navy. Language and literature. Religion. Commerce and manufactures. Manners and customs. Botany and zoology. Chief cities. Mineralogy and mineral waters. Antiquities and curiosities. History. Islands CONTENTS. Page 809 838 857 888 894 901 909 919 HINDOSTAN, OR INDIA WITHIN THE GANGES. Name, boundaries, and divisions. Political divisions. Climate and seasons. Mountains. Rivers. Deserts. Language and literature. Religion. Government and laws. Population, revenues, and title. Manufactures and commerce. Manners and cnstoms. Botany and zoology. Mineralogy and mineral waters. Chief cities. History INDIA BEYOND THE GANGES. Boundaries and divisions. Birman empire: boundaries, extent, and history. Government. Manners and customs.

Religion. Population and revenue. Climate. Commerce and political importance. Manufactures. Divisions of time. Language and literature. Produce. Assam ...... ... CHINA. Name. Situation, extent, and boundaries. Face of the country. Soil and agriculture. Cli mate and seasons. Rivers and lakes. Population. Religion. Government and laws. Military and navy. Revenues. Language and literature. Manners and customs. Chief cities Public roads. Inland navigation. Manufactures and commerce. Botany. Zoology, Mineralogy. Natural curiosities. Antiquities. History. Islands CHINESE TARTARY. Name. Boundaries and extent. Climate and seasons. Divisions. Face of the country, Rivers and lakes. Soil and agriculture. Language and literature. Religion. Govern ment and laws. Population. Manners and customs. Chief cities.

Trade and commerce, Botany and zoology. Miueralogy. History ..... THIBET Name. Bonndaries. Extent and population. Divisions. Face of the country. Rivers and lakes. Climate. Language. Government and religion. Manners and customs. Manufactures and commerce. Botany aud zoology. Mineralogy and natural curiosities. History INDEPENDENT TARTARY. Name. Boundaries and extent. Divisions. Face ofthe country. Climate. Chief cities Trade. Learning. Government and religion. Manners aud customs. Antiquities. Mine ralogy. History JAPAN Name. Extent and divisions. Original population. Face of the country. Climate and produce. Language and literature. Government and religion. Chief cities. Population. Army and navy. Revenue and political relations. Manners and customs. Botany, zoology, and mineralogy .......

ASIATIC ISLANDS. Asiatic islands. Sumatra. Java. Timor. Borneo. Philippines. Celebes. — Australasia. New Holland. New Guinea. New Britain. New Ireland. Solomon's Islands New Caledonia. New Hebrides. New Zealand. Van Dieman's Land. — Polynesia, Pelew Islands. Ladrones. Carolines. Sandwich Isles. Marquesas. Society Isles. Ota heite. Friendly Isles, and the Navigators' Islands b X CONTENTS. 93* 942 951 967 975 978 9S6 999 AFRICA.

Chapter I

Introduction. Name. Situation, extent, and boundaries. Rivers. Mountains. Capes. Di visions

Chapter II. States Of Barbary

Divisions. Climate and produce. Population. Language. Religion. Military and navy. Revenues. Chief cities. Manufactures and commerce. Botany and zoology. Manners and customs. , Antiquities and curiosities. History - ...

Chapter III. Egypt

Name. Boundaries and extent. Divisions. Face ofthe country. Mountains. Rivers and lakes. Climate. Population. Soil and produce. Language and Literature. Constitution and government. Revenues and military. Religion. Chief cities. Manufactures and commerce. Manners and customs. Curiosities. History - ABYSSINIA. Name. Boundaries and divisions. Climate. Face of Ihe country. Language and literature. Botany and zoology. Natural curiosities. Manners and customs. Chief cities. Trade. Government. Method of computing time. Revenue, army, &c. Royal titles. Religion ..--...-._ THE EASTERN COAST OF AFRICA. Divisions. Adel. Ajan. 'Zanguebar. Mocaranga. Sofala. Delagoa bay. Natal CAPE OF GOOD HOPE Boundaries. Face ofthe country. Climate. Produce. Zoology. Manners and customs. Chief towns. Government. History. — Country of the Hottentots, Situation.

Persons. Population. Manners and customs. Botany and zoology. — Caffraria. Boundaries. Persons. Manners and customs. Religion. Government AVESTERN COAST; AND INTERIOR OF AFRICA Divisions. Guinea. Benin. Congo. Loango. Angola. Manners and customs. African association. Interior of Africa. Tombuctoo. Houssa. Fezzan. Islanos AMERICA.

Chapter I

Discovery of America. General description. Climate, soil, &c. Face'of the country. Aborigines. First peopling of America. Greenland. Ice Islands. East Greenland. Divisions of America. — British America. New Britain. Canada. Nova Scotia and New Brunstuck. British islands - ..... Page 1016 1037 CONTENTS. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. New England. Vermont. New Hampshire. Massachussetts. Rhode Island. Connecti cut. New York. New Jersey. Pennsylvania. Delaware. Maryland. Virginia Kentucky. North Carolina. South Carolina. Georgia. Tennessee. Territory north' west of the Ohio. Louisiana - WEST INDIES. Jamaica. Cuba. St. Domingo. — Spanish dominions in America. Old Mexico. New Mexico. East and West Florida. Terra Firma. Peru. Chili. Paraguay, or La Plata. Portugcese dominions in America. Brazil ... MODERN GEOGRAPHY.

IRELAND. CHAP. I. Name, and Origin of the Population. Position. Extent. Climate, Seasons, Meteorology. Face of the Country, and Nature of the Soil. Mountains. Mineralogy. Mineral Waters. Bogs. Forests. Rivers and Lakes. Bays and Harbours. Canals. ' Botany. Zoology. Natural Curiosities. Name and Origin of) HPHIS rich and beautiful island, the brightest gem of the the Population. £ -■- British crown, appears to have been known to the Greeks some centuries before the Christian æra. It is described by them under the name oi Juverna, a manifest corruption of Erin, the national term for the country ; as is, likewise, the after Roman appellation of Hibernia ; and the later, given to it by the Scandinavians, i: ■■:. which it jet preserves, of Ireland. The vernacular term of Erin, is thought to have been adopted from the situation of the country with respect to England, Erin meaning the land of the West; but a recent author reputes it-to have been taken by the first inhabitants in memory ofthe country whence they came, which he supposes to have been a part of Persia, or Iran,* a country acknowledged' now pretty generally the cradle of mankind. f In the Saxon chronicle the Irish are stated to be a colony from Armenia, by which title, at the time the book was compiled, the chief of that country was known lying between the Plack and Caspian seas.

To this statement much credit was given by Sir William Jones, and by General Valancey, and further strength is added to their opinions by the discoveries of recent travellers. Reinegg, in his portraiture ofthe nations inhabiting Caucasus, describes, among several of the tribes, manners which bear great resemblance to those ofthe ancient Irish. One of these, called the Ossetines by the Russians, and self-denominated Ir, has, in addition, a language distinct from the neighbouring nations, in which many words, common to the Persian, German, and Sclavonic tongues, occurs as in the Erse ; and the inhabitants of part of Immcritia, whose language and customs have relation to those ofthe Ir, preserve a tradition of their having peopled countries in the west. That tribes from Persia, settled in these parts, may have proceeded, either directly, or after first landing in Spain, to Ireland, is far from improbable ; nor is the difficulty which presents itself to account for an inlaud people becoming proficient in building of ships, and that iu number sufficient to transport a colony, of any insuperable riature.

If the testimony of history were wanting to ascertain the early progress iu the arts of the ancient inhabitants of those parts of Caucasus, borderin«- * General Valancey's Observations on tnt primitive Inhabitants of Great Britain. See Preface. t Discourse ot St William Jones, in l it 'wot. oi >'. iatic Researches. % Reinegg', Caucasus, vol. ii an 4 page 346 of thi* work. VOL. II. B IRELAND. on the Black sea, the vestiges of their genius, lately discovered, would stand in ample proof. Mines are here found, which were worked 2,000 years ago, and ruins of an cient towns and edifices, demonstrative of great proficiency in architecture, constructed at even an earlier period.* Here also the Greeks traded largely for Indian commodities ; and as they availed themselves of the advantages of the fishery on the Black sea,f it cannot be conceived that the inhabitants of this part could long remain ignorant of na vigation, especially as their large forests afforded them aniple means for the construc tion of ships.

The presumption of the eastern origin of this nation is further corroborated by monuments which daily become more numerous as the bogs are cleared, and resemble the ancient buildings of Persia and India ; \ by the numerous Persian and Indian words which occur in the language; and by the general strong resemblance in phraseology between the Irish, and the Zend, and Pehlevi§ About the period of the decline of the western empire, when Ireland became more fully known, it was found that the Scoti were the predominant tribe. Hence, by the Latin writers ofthe time, the country was termed Scotia ; but in the tenth or eleventh century, upon that term being applied to Caledonia, or Scotland, the ancient name of Hibernia was resumed by Latin writers. Position, Extent.] Ireland is situate between lat. 51° 22', that of Mizen-head, and 55° 22' N. that of Malin-head ; and between Ion. 3° 24' that of the land projecting S.E. of Donaghadee, and 10° 20' W. that of Ventry-head and Sybil cape.

Its extent from S.W. by S. toNE. by N. is 2S0 miles; its transverse breadth 90— 115— 200— 115— 210 — 150 miles. The superficial content in acres, is - - 19,403,508(1 Of this aggregate, lakes, waters, and rivers, occupy 687,385- Roads, towns, and buildings - 179,200 Sterile mountains and barren lands - 320,000 Making the sum of unproductive acres - - 1,188,5851 Bogs and waste lands, at present unproductive, but capable of being brought into culture j fill au extent of .- 4,800,000 And, the land now subject to tillage, or in pasture - 13,416,923 Climate, Seasons, Meteouoiogy.] In Ireland, owing to its western position and exposure to the clouds driven from the Atlantic, the climate is far more humid than in England ; for although the quantity of rain that falls is not greater than in several counties ofthe sister kingdom, the dews are constantly heavy, and the atmosphere al ways replete with moisture, so much so, that damped leather left in a room, even in the midst of summer, will not become dry in many days.** The quantity of rain which fell in the different years from 1803 to 1808, according to the rain-guage at the Botanic garden of Glassneveu, near Dublin, was as follows : In 1803—4 1S04— 5 1805— G 1806—7 1807—8 Inches.

Pts. Inches. Pts. Inches. Pts. Inches. Pts. Inches. Pts. 18 97 ay 72 22 47 24 49 50 The winters are mild, the snow laying upon the ground but for a short time, even in the most rigorous seasons, so that the straw-yard, or housing for cattle, is requisite at no * Decouvertes des savans Voyageurs. f See Description of the ancient trade of tills part, at page 219 of this volume. f-Viagge di Pietro della Valle, vol. iv. § Pretace lo General Valancey's Description, page 9 ', and the rame book, page 14S. II This area given to Ireland by Dr. Beaufort, though larger by lar than that of Sir William Pettv, published in 1672 which made it 17,008,264 English acres, it is expected will be found short ofthe real measurement, when the whole of the Statistical Surveys shall be completed. *I Newenham's View of Ireland, 4to. 1809, page 61, and the elucidatory map. ** Young's Tour, Part 11, sect, 1.

IRELAND. time of the year. The arbutus, and the myrtle, in the south, even iu elevated positions bear exposure to the atmosphere and flourish vigorously ; aud, while the climate is equally congenial by long acknowledgment with that of England to the growth of bailey and oats, and superior for that of potatoes, the reproach that it is unfavourable to the culture of wheat is shewn, now that husbandry has undergone improvement, to be altogether void of foundation ; the samples of this grain, especially in the south, and in sue year 1807, having been confessedly superior in quality to the English seed from which it was produced.* The mean temperature ofthe north is about 4Sn, of the middle 50-j1, and ofthe south 52° of Fahrenheit. f Thunder and lightning are not equally common as in England; nor when experienced, so destructive.

The aurora borealis is rarely seen. At some distant periods, different parts ofthe country appear to have undergone revolutions from earthquakes and volcanos ; the supposed craters of some of the latter, in particular, are re markable among the Galtie hills, which separate the counties of Cork and Limerick. The first lies west of, and contiguous to, the most towering of these hills, called Galti more, a mountain of a conic form. It is a very extraordinary hollow, which now con tains a lake of about two acres ; the depth considerable. Eastward of Galtimore occurs another hollow, and a second conic mountain. Beyond this a third cavity; and. eastward also a similar hill ; while again farther on is a fourth, and a mountain of corresponding figure with that ofthe preceding. J Vast caverns, likewise, in different quarters, the origin of which can be ascribed only to some great convulsion of nature, lead to the conclusion with many that they were occasioned by subterranean sire.

To the action of this powerful element is likewise attributed the formation of the basaltic columns at the northern extremity of Ireland, in the county of Antrim; but the justice of this attribution is contested. || Face of the Countky, and Nature of the Soil.] The general appearance of Ire land is entirely opposite to that ofthe last-described portion of the United kingdom. Comparatively it is level ; mountains are unfrequent, the chains of no great length, the elevation of them slight, and to their summits mostly arc they covered with verdure. Numerous beautiful lakes, and frequent streams, diversify the surface, and of them many are of depth sufficient to admit of navigation. Bogs still occupy a part of this coun try, a portion, indeed, of greater extent than the mountains; but of these, by strewing of limestone gravel on the surface, many are daily reclaimed, and the facility of the ren dering them subservient to agriculture is very greatly promoted by their lying almost universally on strata of that material.

The general base is rock, and mostly limestone. It constantly occurs at a small depth, and frequently appears on the surface. So prevalent indeed is stone, as to be blended with every description of soil, and form a stonv clay, a stony loam, and a gravelly sand. Friable .^andy loams, dry, but fertile, are the most common soils, and form the best of any for tillage and sheep ; of these, the richest in the kingdom is a mellow, putrid, friable loam, of which the bullock-pastures of Lime rick consist, and the banks of the Shannon in Clare, called the Corcasscs. Sand, com mon in England, and much more so in the countries ofthe continent, is rarely seen, un less in narrow slips of hillocks near the sea-coast; clay, but iu nine counties hitherto, surveyed, and chalky soil, is almost wholly unknown.

The hogs of Ireland are very ex tensive, that of Allen covering still a space of upwards of 300,000 acres ; while others, some of large, and many of small expanse, are scattered over the whole kingdom. The latter, however, are not in greater abundance, than, owing to the scarcity of wood, and a neglect in the wealthy of taking advantage bv application of funds for the rawing of coal and * Newerfham's View, p. 43 — 4. f Trans. Roy. Imp. Acad. vol. ii. X Young's! our in Ireland, in Pinkerton's Collection of Wnsrcs, Par! XIII. p. si«.\ )| See Hamilton's Letters on the Basaltel, and Bergman's to Von Trod, in Ub Letters on lielaud b2 IRELAND. cutting the verr few canals requisite for the general dispersion of that commodity over the whole country, is necessary for fuel. These bogs, unlike those of Scotland and England, arc not iu general flat, but of uneven surface, and hence present an additional natural facility of improvement, increased still further * by their being the sources of various rivers, which fall into the sea, and might, and gradually do, under the hand of diligence, drain much ofthe contiguous land.

Ireland, even in 1779, the period of its being visited by Arthur Young, Esq. contained a far greater number of acres under cultivation, in proportion to its size, than England ; and possessed a greater natural fertility. This statement is not only corroborated by the late surveys effected of eighteen of its counties; they shew, moreover, the disparity to be considerable, and the progress of im provement in the last thirty years to have been far greater in this country than in Eng land. These surveys also have served to exhibit at the same time the abundance of natural manures which every where abound, and qualify this beautiful country to equal, in point of produce, the richest and most generous soils of Europe, when a due applica tion of industry shall be given to its culture. Mountains.]

The mountains of Ireland are few, but sufficient in number to give a pleasing variety to its appearance. They are not generally connected for any great length, nor is there in the country any long-continued upland ; whence the rivers flew iu every direction. The southern province of Munster is the most mountainous of any. Here the Shehy mountains form several short chains, thrown out from one main sliebh (the Irish term for a mountain). This is situated above the small lake that gives source to the river Lee, on the western part ofthe countyr of Cork. The first of the branches, after mak ing a southern line for 15 British miles, diverges 20 miles to the W.S.W., forming the promontory of Mizen-head, and from its bend near Skibereen, a craggy coast on both sides. At ten miles from the central mountain, a ridge runs parallel to the bend, terminating with Sheep's head ; and between this projection and the bend is Dunmannus bay.

A third branch, parallel to the two former, proceeds from the centre to Crew head, forty miles distant, and forms the deep inlet called Bantry bay. From the parent mountain a fourth projection is thrown out to the east for fifteen miles, and to the N.E/N. and N.W, a cluster which unites it with intervals to the Bogra mountains, to Clarehill, and Mangenton, the loftiest ofthe mountains which inclose the beautiful lake of Killarney. The mountains projected from this central one are not any of them very lofty; they consist of sandstone, and the hills of loam, stone, gravel, and bog. This tract of country is of rude and savage aspect; the mountains rocky. From Mangenton, lines of small eminences running W.S.W. form, southward, the mouth of Kenmare river, and northward Dingle bay. The height of Mangenton from the lake, is 2,500 feet.