Travels, or an inland voyage through the States of New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, and through the territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New Orleans-in 1807 and 1808. With maps and plates

Front matter

KOrC-y^yy^^m, APul>Ais/i(iA Ay T. Riley, jsjo TRAVELS ON AN INLAND VOYAGE THROUGH THE STATES OF NEW-YORK, PENNSYLVANIA, VIRGINIA, OHIO, KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE, AND THROUGH THE TERRITORIES OF INDIANA, LOUISIANA, MISSISSIPPI AND NEW-ORLEANS; PERFORMED IN THE AfEARS 1807 AND 1808 ; INCLUDING A TOUR OF NEARLY SIX THOUSAND MILES. AATTH MAPS AND PLATES. BY CHRISTIAN SCHULTZ, JUN. ESQ. IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I. NEAV-YORK : Printed by Isaac Riley 1S10. DISTRICT OF NEAV-YORK, aa. BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twentieth day of March, in the thirty-fourth year of the Independence of the United States of America, Isaac Riley, of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title ofa book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words and figures following, to wit : "Travels on an Inland Voyage through thc States of New-\"ork, Penn **' sylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, and through the " Territories of Indiana, Louisiana, Mississippi and New-Orleans ; per " formed in the years 1 807 and 1 808 ; including a tour of nearly six thou " sand miles.

AVith Maps and Plates. By Christian Schultz, Jun. Esq. *' In two Volumes. Volume I." In conformity to the act ofthe Congress of the United States, en titled, " An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies " of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such " copies, during the times therein mentioned ;" and also to an act, entitled, *■*■ An act, supplementary to an act, entitled, an act for the encouragement n of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the " authors and proprietors of such oopies, during the times therein men " tioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, en " Braving and etching historical and other prints." CHARLES CLINTON, Clerk of the District of New-York,

Preface

. THE following letters were not originally intended for the eye of the public, but were written rather as a means of recreation to the author, and of amusement to his par ticular friend. Nor does he now, but with the greatest diffidence, and after repeated solicitations, consent to their being made public. From the earliest information he had acquired respecting the geographical situation of the route he has travelled, it has always been a favourite object with him, at some time or other, to undertake this voyage, as well to view the cele brated cataracts of Niagara, as to acquire a personal know ledge of the country. Although yet young in life, he has always been accustomed to combine pleasure with profit ; and had not some land speculations required his presence in that country, in all probability this voyage had still remained to be per formed.

The route is generally known, yet, strange as it may appear, no correct information could be obtained as to the distances, mode of travelling, the time required, the ex penses incurred, nor of the risks and dangers to be encoun tered. These inquiries have been particularly attended to ; and the minuteness and fidelity with which they will be. found to be answered, is perhaps the only merit to which he can lay claim. The Map of the United States, including the whole ot Louisiana, is intended to shew at one view the principal rivers and towns of the interior, with the relative situation of the chief rivers, towns and cities on the sea-coast. It is not, therefore, crowded with names and boundary lines. The Maps of the route from New-York to Pittsburgh, from Pittsburgh to the mouth of the Ohio, and frond the Ohio to the Gulf of Mexico, areall corrected from obser vation and experience.

The latitudes of most of the prin cipal points are quoted from actual observations, a few from their distances and bearings by the compass. The maps may be considered as more correct than any yet published. The author will not conceal that an additional motive for consenting to the publication of these letters, was the peru sal of a volume lately published, entitled, " Travels in " America, by Thomas Ash, Esq." purporting to be a part of the same route which he has travelled. From a careful examination of this work, which is found to abound in mis takes, misrepresentations and fictions, in almost every page, the author does not hesitate to declare, that in his opinion the whole is a compilation, taken principally from " The " Pittsburgh Navigator ,-"* nor does he believe that any such person ever travelled the route pretended to be described.

Out of a hundred instances which might be recited, the following is selected, as conclusive evidence of the English traveller's ignorance of the geography of the river Ohio, which he pretends to have descended, viz. The day preceding his arrival at Marietta, he " perceived " a fall in the river, and that the current wore through it " in the form of a Z. The channel was very little broader " than the boat, confined between rocks, the slightest touch " against which would dash her to pieces. I ordered the * This author, among other falsities, informs us be understood, while at Pittsburgh, that a work was preparing for the press, called the " Pittsburgh Navigator." The truth is, that little work had been published nearly two years i and the writer of " Ash's Tra vels" must have been in possession ofa copy, as the whole is found interspersed thiw.-h his work, verbatim et literatim.- V " men to keep a steady stroke, not on any account to aban " don the oars, or to be alarmed at the noise of the flood.

" The boat instantly took the first suction of the fall, in " creased in velocity to a great degree, passed through all " the mazes of the channel till she came to the last descent, " when tumbling, tost, and regardless of her helm, she spun " round and round, and at length shot ahead down the " stream. Astonishing country ! Here again the hills sub " sided, the face of nature smiled, the current diffused, and " the river became a perfect calm. On looking back to " contemplate the danger I had just escaped, I could but " faintly see the foaming surge, or hear the horrid clamour. " I never experienced a more eventful moment than in the " passage of that fall." (See page 121.) There is no such fall, nor indeed any other, on any part of the Ohio above Marietta. This traveller has only made a trifling mistake of about ninety-six miles.

The " Pitts " burgh Navigator," while describing the passage of Le tart's Fails, speaks in language which might well deceive the traveller in his closet, and afford a favourable opportu nity for exercising his talents, in giving a highly coloured picture, and magnifying the dangers and horrors of his situation while descending this perpendicular fall, which every boy in the neighbourhood would delight to pass in a tub. Although, according to the English traveller's description, in 1806, these falls were found about twenty-five miles above Marietta, yet, in 1807, the author found them where they have always been situated, that is, seventy-one miles below Marietta. In correcting these letters for the press, it was found necessary to suppress a considerable proportion of some ot the originals, which, although acceptable to a friend, might VI not be equally agreeable to the public.

Perhaps a fnor6 liberal use of the sponge would still improve the remainder, yet such as they are, they are now before the public; all the merit the author can claim for them, is a strict adhe rence to the truth, without exaggeration or embellish ment. THfe AUTHOR. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Letter I

Albany. . . . Sch enectady. . . . Mohawk River. . . . Freight ....Fort Hunter... .Canojoharie... .Little Falls.... Locks and Canal.. ..Toll.... Utica, Fort Schuyler .... Freight. ...Deerfleld.... Whitestown.... Few flsh in the Mohawk River. 1

Letter II

Rome, Fort Stanwix....Freight....Wood Creek.... Locks... .Toll... .Salmon and other fine flsh.. ..A Bear. ...Fish Creek.. ..Fort Royal, Oneida Lake ....Oneida Indians. ...Night fishing on the Lake.... Rotterdam... .Lake in Blossom.. ..Fever and Ague Seeds. ...Onondago River. ...Three River Point. 15

Letter VI

Queen's Town. ...Lewis Town.. ..More partialities... Devil's Diving Hole 4necdote....Tuscarora Indians and village. ...Whirlpool.. ..Description qf the Falls of Niagara, as observedfrom the Canada shore. ..Experiments. ...Niagara River impassable between Chippaway Village and the Falls Anecdotes. ...Vapor of the Falls causes diseases in cattle. - - - -

Letter VII

Chippaway Village. ..Chippaway River. ..Description ofthe Falls from the American side.... Rainbow.... Dangerous passage to the bottom of the Falls.... The river passable at one spot immediately below the Falls.. ..Goat Island.... Ainecdotes... .Visit Goat Island.... Inroads ofthe Falls... .Indian Account. 74

Letter VIII

Examination of the Country between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario.... Remarks on the form ofthe country, and probable situation of the Falls anciently.... Speculations. ...The waters of Lake Erie lower, and current stronger, than formerly ....Fort Schlosser Landing. ...Outlet of Lake Erie. - - - - 84

Letter IX

Freight to Fort Schlosser, or Black Rock. ...Rattlesnakes scarce.... Fort Erie. ...Village.... More Canadian partialities. ..Anecdote. ..Fine Flocks qf Black squirrels. ...Buffaloe Village. ...Indian Council.. ..Games. . . - 94 o vot.. I. X

Letter X

Lake Erie... ..Storm Dangerous navigatiM.../. Freight and passage to Presque Isle.. ..Chautaughque Landing and Lake.... Presque Isle, or Town qf Erie.... Harbour.... Dispute of the Pennsylvania Population Company. ...Fort. ...General Anthony Wayne. ...Fort Le Beaus, or Waterford... .Freight. ...Severe frost in August. ...Le Beaus Creek.- * - - 103

Letter XI

jLake Le Beaus... French Creek.. ..Meadville..., Cassawa Creek.... Fort Franklin, or Franklinville 4lleghany River. ...Toby Creek.... Sandy Creek. ...Mahoning Creek.. ..Town qf Armstrong Kiskemanitas River Freeport Buffaloe Creek.. ..A Bear.... An Alleghany supper.... Wild Turkeys. . . . Fish.. . . Pittsburgh.. ..Freight and pas sage....Monongahela River. - - 114

Letter XII

Ohio. ...Description of the Boats in use on this River.. ..Prices.. ..Fort MLntosh, or Beaver. ...Big Beaver Creek Georgetown Steubenville Charlestown. ..Mingo Bottom... Warren. .. JVlieeling.... Pultney. ...Grave Creek.... Coal. ...Freight and passage. ...Fisfi„..River turbid.. ..Height of Freshes Little Muskingun.1 River Duck Creek. ...Marietta.. ..Great Muskingum River.... Fort Harmar... .Improved Ferry-boat. 129

Letter XVII

Salt River... West-Point. ...Ohiopiomingo... Blue River.... Flat Country.... Green River. ...Town of Henderson, or Red Banks. ...A Bear.... Wabash River.... Shawanese Town.... Salina Creek.. ..Curious Cavern. ...Cumberland River.. ..Smith Town ....Bear chace.... Fogs, and jalsity qf vision on the Ohio TABLE OF DISTANCES. Miles not included. Miles. Total Miles. Lat. Long. 42 38 N- 73 44 XV. From New- York to Albany, is Schenectady, Fort Hunter, Canojoharie, Little Falls, Utica, Fort Schuyler, Rome, Fort Stanwix, Wood Creek, in length, Oneida Lake, in length, Onondag-o River, in length, From Three River Point to Liverpool, Salina, salt works, Oswego River, in length to Lake Ontario, Fort Niagara, Lake Ontario, Lewistown and Queenstown, Niagara Falls, Fort Schlosser, Chippaway Village, Black Rock, Lake Erie, Fort Erie and Village, Presque Isle and Fort, Lake Erie Fort Le Beaus, Waterford, 160 15 25 20 13 46 16 24 30 20 160 175 200 220 233 279 295 319 349 369 43 12 N. 75 27 W. 13 3 12 165 7 7 1 381 546 553 560 561 43 28 N. 43 ION 76 81 W. 79 15 W. 22 7 583 590 42 53 N. 78 59 W. 90 14 680 694 42 18 N. 41 2 N. 80 8 W. 79 53 W- 4 Miles not included. ....

Total Miles. MUes_ Lat. Long. 18 694 700 Le Beaus Creek, in length, French Creek. Meadville, Fort Franklin, 57 30 757 T67 41 24 N. 79 50W Alleghany River. Armstrong, Pittsburgh, 85 4 J 872 914 79 51 W. M40 26 N. Ohio River. Beaver Town, Fort M'Intosh, Georgetown, Steubenville, Charlestown, Warren, Wheeling, Pultney, Grave Creek, Middle Island, Marietta, Vienna, Little Kanawa River, and Bellepre Big Hockhocking River, Belleville, Letart's Falls, Point Pleasant, and Great Kanawa River, Galliopolis, Big Sandy River, French Settlement, Portsmouth, and Great Sciota River, Alexandria, Vangeville, and Salt Creek, Manchester, Limestone, Charlestown, Augusta, Columbia, and Little Miami River, Cincinnati, Great Miami River, GO 10 19 7 9 10 7 27 43 9 2 17 3 40 944 954 973 980 989 999 1006 1014 1041 1084 1093 1095 1112 1115 1155 |40 5 N. 39 25 N. 39 11 N. 38 51 N. 80 34 W. 8119W. 81 36 W. 81 57 W. 29 5 58 20 1184 1189 1247 1267 38 25 N. 82 28 W. 18 0 21 17 14 6 12 1285 38 44 N. 82 49 W. 1306 1323 1337 1343 1355 38 36 N. 83 38 W. 37 6 24 1395 1398 1422 84 18 W 84.36 W-. 39 6N 39 6 N. I 341 Miles not included.

Miles. Total Miles. Lat. Long. Lawrenceburgh, Big Bone Lick Creek, Port William, and Kentucky River, Westport, Louisville, and Falls of Ohio, Jeffersonville, Clarksville, West Point, and Salt River, Blue River, Anderson's Ferry, •Green River, Henderson, Red Banks, Wabash River, Shawanese Town, Battery Rocks, Cave, Smithtown, and Cumberland River, Tennessee River, Fort Massack, Cedar Bluffs, and Cherokee Town, Big Chain of Rocks, Mouth of Ohio, 18 2 24 1422 1424 1448 30 48 20 0 2 25 30 72 58 22 46 30 6 7 1478 1526 1546 38 39 N. 85 2W- 38 14 N. 85 29 W- 1548 1573 1603 1675 1733 1755 1801 1831 1837 1844 \37 59 N. T 87 13 \V. 34 12 12 1878 1890 1902 37 17 N. 88 7W, 16 4 25 1918 1922 1947 88 45 W, 36 59 N. Up the Mississippi. Grand Chain of Rocks, Grand Tow-rs, Cape Girardeau, Picket Island Passage, St Genevieve, Prairie De Roche, Fort Chartres, American Bottom, Cahokia, St. Louis, Mouth of Missouri River, St. Louis, Carondelet, Merrimack Ford, Big River, Old Mines, Mine I.e Berton, New Diggings, Mines of Garberie, 15 6 15 54 23 7 6 15 45 3 14 14 6 15 45 17 7 o 13 3S 27 N. 89 36 tV Miles not included.

JlTiles. Total Miles. Lat. Long. 341 17 54 40 1947 Mine La Motte, St. Genevieve, Platine Creek, Eagle, Fort Chartres, and St. Genevieve, 49 Mississippi River, descending. From Mouth of Missouri to St. Louis, Cahokia, Fort Chartres, St. Genevieve, New Bourbon and Kaskaskias, Salina Creek, and salt works, Kaskaskias River, Picket Island Passage, Muddy River, Indian Village, Cape Girardeau, Grand Towers, Grand Chain of Rocks, Mouth of Ohio, Fort Jefferson, Iron Banks, Clialk Banks Bayou de She, New Madrid, Little Prairie, Bayou Riviere, Flour Island, Upper Chickasaw Bluffs, Second Chickasaw Bluffs, Devil's Race Ground, Third Chickasaw Bluffs, Wolf River, Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, and Fort Pickering, Fort Pike, Council Island, St. Francis River, Settlements, Bayou, and Old Channel, White River, Arkansas River, 14 3 57 13 3 7 6 24 16 4 10 15 6 15 5 15 5 18 32 33 27 44 o 11 16 10 32 1961 1964 2021 2034 2037 2044 2050 2074 2090 2094 2104 2119 2125 2140 2145 2160 2165 2183 2215 2248 2275 2319 2321 2332 2348 2358 2390 39 18 N 37 51 N. 37 17 N. 36 59 N. 36 W. 89 28 W. 89 8W 88 45 W. 36 34 N. 89 20 W 35 36 N. 89 37 W. 1 1 31 32 5 74 6 23 2391 2392 2423 2455 2460 2534 2540 2562 35 IN. 34 44 N. 89 54 W. 90 29 W 34 1 N. 91 4W TRAVELS.

Letter I

Utica, Mohawk River, July 15, 1807. Dear Friend, AGREEABLY to your request and my pro mise, 1 now commence sketching, for your amusement, the few hasty observations I have made on my voyage to this place ; yet, as these will neither be very neAV nor interesting to you, Avho are equally well informed as to the state of improvements thus far, I shall occasionally introduce such little in cidents as may occur on my voyage, being satisfied Avith the sincerity of your avowal, that *f any thing from me will be acceptable " You desired me to be particular in describing the several toAvns and streams I pass on my route, the respective distances between them, the time occupied and manner of travelling from one to another, as Avell as an account of the expenses, risks and dangers to be incurred in an inland voyage ofthe kind I am noAV performing.

All these I shall endeavour to attend to in their proper time and vol. i. a place ; and, should I fail in affording you all the satisfaction or amusement you may have anticipated, it will not be from want of any exertion on my part. The navigation of the Hudson, from NeAV- York to Albany, is one hundred and sixty miles, and so generally known, that you cannot expect any thing amusing in any account I might attempt to give you, either of the grandeur or elevation of those highlands through which Ave pass, or of the many flourishing tOAvns and villages which adorn the banks of this majestic river. I shall, therefore, proceed to those particulars which you are more anxious to learn. The passage to Albany generally takes up from two to five days, and costs from six to ten dollars for each passenger, including board.

The freight upon bulky merchandise is forty cents a hundred pounds weight ; but heavy articles from twenty five to fifty per cent. less. From Albany, which lies in l|tjtude 42. 38. N. and 73. 44. W.* to Schenectady, you have fifteen miles over a very good turnpike road ; and the freights over this portage is sixteen cents a hundred pounds weight. Many of these Avaggoners are great rogues, and, should you chance to have occasion for their ser- * The longitude is always reckoned from London in these letters. t Freight and waggon hire are synonymous terms over all the portages. vices, it will not only be well to be very careful, but, likeAvise, to make your bargain before you employ them, or, like me, you -wall have to " pay for " learning." Schenectady is quite a large town, but rather small for a city ; notAvithstanding Avhich, I observed that the inhabitants always make use of the latter term when speaking of the place.

It contains about four hundred and tAventy houses, and is pleasantly situated on the south side of the Mohawk river, about six miles above the great Cohoes. From its situation at the commencement of an ex tensive inland navigation, whose shores are daily increasing in wealth and population, there can be no doubt that, at a period not very far distant, Schenectady Avill rank as one of the first interior cities of the United States. The freight from Schenectady to Utica, a distance of one hundred and four miles by water, is seventy-five cents a hundred Aveight. The carriage by land is the same. This is owing to the great number of Avaggons, loaded with produce, Avhich enter the cities of Albany and Schenectady, where, having discharged their loads, rather than return empty and earn nothing, they are glad to take a freight at the rate of Avater-carriage.

The Schohaiie river, a rapid and innavigable stream, falls into the Mohawk from the south side, at a place called the Mohawk Flats, at. Fort Hunter, about twenty-five miles above Schenectady. Canada Creek is a considerable stream of Avater, which takes its rise in a hilly, broken country, near the head waters of Black River : it empties itself into the MohaAvk on the north side, at a place called the Herkimer Flats. The Tutconnodach, Corojje, and Lower Canada Creeks on the north side, and the Canojoharie, Otsquach, Saguett and Oriskany Creeks on the south side, are all small and trifling streams, which afford but a partial supply to the main river. You will please to observe, as a general rule in future, that, in all my references with respect to the rivers and water-courses, I shall use the terms right and left, as the frequent windings and sudden turns of the rivers render it almost impossible to give thc true bearings without a constant reference to the compass.

I have noticed but three different kinds of boats used in navigating this river. Those called Sche nectady boats are generally preferred ; and, will carry about ten tons burthen Avhen the river is high ; but Avhen it is Ioav, as at this time, they will not take more than from three to four ; they generally advance against the stream at the rate of from eighteen to twenty or twenty five miles a day. These boats are built very much after the model of our Long Island round bottom skiffs, but proportionably larger, being from forty to fifty feet in length, and steered by a large swing oar of the same length. They have, likewise, a moveable mast in the middle. When the wind serves, they set a square-sail and top-sail, Avhich, at a few miles distance, give them all the appearance of small square-rigged vessels coming doAvn before the Avind.

Our galley, Avhich, I am just noAV informed, is called the " Mohawk Regu " lator," has gone at the rate of six miles an hour against the stream ; and, during this time, be lieve me, nothing can be more charming than sailing on the Mohawk. It is not often, however, that a fair wind Avill serve for more than three or four miles together, as the irregular course ofthe river rdnders its aid very pre carious ; their chief dependence, therefore, is upon their pike poles. These are generally from eighteen to twenty-tAvo feet in length, having a sharp pointed iron, with a socket weighing ten or tAvelve pounds affixed to the lower end ; the upper has a large knob, called a button, mounted upon it, so that the poleman may press upon it with his Avhole Aveight without endangering his person. This manner of impelling the boat forward is extremely laborious, and none but those Avho have been for some time accustomed to it, can manage these poles with any kind of advantage.

Within the boat on each side is fixed a plank running fore and aft, with a number of cross cleets nailed upon it, for the purpose of giving the polemen a sure footing in hard poling. The men, after setting their poles against a rock, bank or bottom of the river, dedining their heads very low, place the upper end or button against the back part of their right or left shoulders, (according to the side on Avhich they may be poling,) then falling down on their hands and toes, creep the whole length of the gang-boards, and send the boat forward with considerable speed. The first sight of four men on each side of a boat, creeping along on their hands and toes, apparently transfixed by a huge pole, is no small curiosity ; nor was it, until I had observed their perseverance for tAvo or three hundred yards, that I became satisfied they were not playing some pranks.

From the general practice of this method, as likewise from my OAvn trials and observation, I am convinced that they have fallen upon the most powerful way possible to exert their bodily strength for the purpose required. The position, however, was so extremely awkward to me, that I doubt whether the description I have attempted Avill give you an adequate idea of the procedure. I have met with another kind of boat on this river, which is called a dorm, or dorem ; how it is spelt, I know not. The only difference I could observe in this from the former one is, that it is built sharp at both ends, and, generally, much larger and stouter. They have likeAvise flats, similar to those you have seen on the Susquehanna, but much lighter built, and longer. On all these they occasionally carry the sails before mentioned. ;V Vlt'w of Aus Boats it manner of navigating on thje Moliawk River The Mohawk is by no means dangerous to as cend, on account of the sloAvness of the boat's pro gress ; but, as it is full of rocks, stones and shal- Ioavs, there is some risk in descending it of staving the boat ; and, at this season, is so low as to require it to be dragged by hand over many pla ces.

The channel in some instances is not more than eight feet in width, which will barely permit a boat to pass by rubbing on both sides. This is sometimes caused by natural or accidental obstruc tions of rocks in the channel ; but oftener by arti ficial means. This, which at first view would appear to be an inconvenience, is produced by two lines or ridges of stone, generally constructed on sandy, gravelly, or stony 'shallows, in such a manner as to form an acute angle Avere they to meet, the extremities of which widen as they extend up the river ; Avhilst at the lower end there is just space enough left to admit the passage of a boat. The water being thus collected at the widest part of these ridges, and continually pent up within narroAver limits as it descends, causes a rise at the passage ; so that where the depth Avas no more than eight inches before, a contrivance of this kind will raise it to twelve ; and, strange as it may appear, a boat draAving fifteen inches will pass through it Avith safety and ease.

The cause is simply this ; the boat, being some what below the passage, is brought foiward with considerable velocity, and the moment it dashes into the passage, its resistance to the current is such as to cause a swell of four or five inches more, Avhich affords it an easy passage over the shoal. The MohaAvk may be considered as being generally about one hundred yards in Avidth ; its banks are extremely fertile, and the very appear ance of the barns would satisfy a traveller that he was passing through a rich and Avell cultivated country. The inhabitants are mostly of German descent, and still, in a great measure, retain their national prejudices, and consider all who do not speak their oavh language either as Yan kees or Irishers. The Germans of Pennsylvania generally speak a most corrupt dialect of the Ger man language ; yet, when compared Avith that in use on the Mohawk, it may justly be styled " attic "elegance."

The Saxons are allowed to speak the purest of any of the Germans, and when I have been complimented as speaking German like a Saxon, which has frequently been the case, I have felt not a little flattered ; judge, then, hoAv I have been mortified to be told by a. fair Mohawk, that " I Avas an outlandish man, or an Iris/ier, and " did not understand their language, although I " had made out to learn a feAv words." The German and Herkimer Flats are very fine tracts of bottom land, and in the highest state of cultivation ; and, from the great depth of the soil, as well as from logs and trees being frequently found in digging for wells, they Avere, in all pro bability, at some remote period, the bottoms of lakes. Canojoharie and Little Falls are the only two toAvns that lie immediately upon the river throughout the Avhole distance from Schenectady to Utica.

The former is a scattered village on the left bank, about forty-five miles from Schenectady ; the latter about thirteen miles farther up, situated on the right bank, in a rocky and barren country, of little value except for mill-seats. It consists at present of thirty houses, and must, in time, be come a very considerable manufacturing place, from the ease and facility Avith which mills may be erected. About a quarter of a mile before arriving at the Falls are tAvo places called the Devil's Hole and Devil's Oven ; and, from the description I had re ceived, I expected to find a cavern large enough, at least, to contain a church — Avhen, lo ! on examina tion, they appeared to be only small accidental ex cavations in the side of a rocky mountain, about the size of a common oven, Avith a very large mouth.

From the great number of small excavations that are continually forming, it is evident that they have been produced in consequence of a pebble or stone becoming accidentally lodged in a small cavity of the rocks, Avhere, the force of the Abater A^OL. i. b giving it a rotatory motion, the cavity has grown with every overfloAving of the river, which, when high, rushes directly into these holes. On the approach to the Falls the scenery of the country experiences a sudden and picturesque change ; the river becomes contracted to about one-third its usual breadth ; on each side the mountains rise to a towering height, the sides of which, although inaccessible, are covered with lofty trees, Avhich fasten their roots in the fissures and crevices of the rocks, and firmly maintain their station in spite of storms and tempests ; while, as vou advance, the river seems lost in a wilderness ml ' of rocks and precipices.

In ascending these Falls you pass through eight locks into the canal, where each ton of merchandise pays a toll of tAvo dollars and tAventy-five cents, besides a toll of from one dollar and fifty cents to tAvo dollars and sixty-two and a half cents on each boat. This expense is paid by the captain of the boat. It is, however, certainly too high, and is generally complained of ; not that the proprietors receive too great profits from these works, which, on the contrary, are at present rather a sinking fund, and must continue so until the number of boats employed on this river is increased in a tenfold degree. This ought to be an object of the first importance Avith the company, for the heavy charges paid by the feAv that navigate these Avaters, tend to discourage others from building boats.